Видео

Yes, really worth it!

Yeah man! 👌 thanks

Thank you my friend!

Noted and thanks

Only one side is needed and a thin film of sealant is require.

It all depends of the setup, l'm using the type S k20 piston, H23 bluetop camshafts and my comp ratio is only 11+ to 1. Made 223 whp on pump 91 octane gas. It'll we higher if l'm using H22 type S cams and e85 for gas, 240hp is achievable but that's just my estimation but its possible. If you need more power you can use the k20 type R piston and use sk2 cams, change the valve springs and use sk2 h22 intake mani, bigger t/b and you should be making a lot.

OE k20 piston can handle a lot of power, as long as it's NA setup. Some will boost the motor w/o changing the piston and it can make a minimum of 400whp but since it's not made for boost application. It does'nt last as long. If your setup is NA, you shouldn't worry much.

@@sagittnet2158 if I'm using low compretion k20 piston (nippon) with forged f23 piston and a turbo setup , is it anny good. Thanks for your response.

@@sagittnet2158 I want to go as stock and reliable as possible

@@errajiadnane6553 Keep it simple and a little bit of upgraded parts and it should last. If you've seen how l build it and parts l used and do not use other than Honda oe headgasket. No reving more than its capable of making power. It should last.

Thanks and what size of charged pipe are you using? Thinking of going back to 2.5 intead of 3".

​@@sagittnet2158You're welcome my brother, that's what we're here for, to support each other 🤝 💯

Honda community saying f23 block can handle more than 400whp. How long it'll last we dont know. Mine gave out and l only made like 360whp but it gave out on different reason and it was bored out to 86.5mm. I lost a little bit of material on the sleeve. My latest boost project plan is to keep it somewhere below 350. We'll see what happen. If youre planning of making more than 400whp and its for these setup, it so easy to make. I highly recommend getting the block resleeve. That way you eliminate the block and worry about something elae.

Quite a bit and it really a challenged making it and felt good after it was all done.

Thanks and yes, gasket thickness is always calculated.

👍

@@sagittnet2158 same we should be friends lol

Thanks man!👍

It's all OE parts from different Honda cars made, it its been put together! And it can be put together cheaper than a a K series. Thanks

wow great to know ! i can’t wait to do mine some day once my fseries blows up

Thanks brother!

@@sagittnet2158👍🏻 Yessir.

Doing good man and hope you do the same. Thanks

It could be your brake mc on the way out. Hope you fix ot up soon.

@@sagittnet2158 thank you

Thanks

No link but the p/n is NRG SRK-131H

I know, those days are long gone. Even engine at the junk yard went up. $600+ whole engine, Cyl head $350

@@sagittnet2158 yup, even the junkyards are a ripoff now, and around our area all the good parts get stripped even before the cars hit the yard 🤦‍♂️

@@Merk_wallberg I agree on that. tnx and later!

I like to use Cp piston for boost setup coz l dont have to deal w/ wrist pin offset. I could get a custom one w/ correct wrist pin offset but it take such a long time to get it. The current project l have that l'm thinking of booatimg, l'm going to use a Nippon racing K20a2 Turbo piston, its for experiment, want to know if its any good.

We actually have lots of option nowadays. If NA setup, Nippon racing pistons, your choice of w/c one you like to use for different compressiin ratio. K20a2 Type S, CTR and Type R will you the most comp ratio. It's your call on how you want the wrist pin offset install. Mine will always be like f23 piston offset. For Turbo apps, Cp is good or Arias and no wrist pin offset on those. Wiseco has a wrist pin offset and it's your call how you want it install. You can also buy a custom piston from Traum and it'll have the correcr pin offset.

transpartswarehouse.com/

Bought parts kit from them for my Prelude transmission and it's good. You can also try Synchrotech.com

Lol! Sure is it's a nasty work man!

Thanks karnal!

@@sagittnet2158 You're welcome my brother, that's what we're here for, to support each other.

Awd would be interesting!

Search for Honda Prelude Service repair manual and its under wwManualslib. Make sure you have a good antivirus on your computer.

Good to here from you man and glad that your build project on the way..

Same as me got a lot of learning for sagga he know he's stuff

Thanks man i will share some photos ​@@sagittnet2158

@@sagittnet2158 Just posted a short of the motor. Check it out and let know what you think.

I kinda miss the boost, it's been a while. Tnx

I know, lt got me excited too! Tnx

Thanks bud!

Solid choi! Okay ang topmount Red!

@@sagittnet2158opo kua thats our best plan for red

Never thought of that and thanks for the heads up. It shouldn't take me long to give it a re-torque w/ shocks fully loaded.

@@sagittnet2158 Usually, any joint with a rubber bushing inside (and these shocks have exactly that at the ends) needs to be tightened under the load of the weight of the car. Otherwise, the bushing gets more stressed when you finally lower the car back to the ground and the suspension geometry gets slightly changed, and it will remain so until you redo it properly. Probably not a big deal for these shocks compared to something like a lower control arm, but still the shop manual (I have an 07 Pilot which is essentially the same thing) tells to tighten them under load

@@d.o.5238 Good to know and thank you.

Guyabano66@gmail at sslamat din.

Thanks!

Not yet and it'll be on the list next, basically changing oil every 3k miles.

Thanks

😂early days of my editing ang using my phone. Thanks

Mabuti naman at salamat. I never did figure it out pero ang suspetsa ko eh ang clutch. I think it was just slipping out. The clutch couldn't handle the torque l guess. I'm doing same thing like youu. If l feathered it out it's not doing it. Ano clutch ang ginagamit no at how much you're making?

@@sagittnet2158 tripuck lang clutch ko bro and 400whp

@@alitoroganan2442 it could be clutch slipping too. What brand and l assumed it's stg 3.

I'm also thinking of doing the front but so far no indication of a bad front struts yet. Usually you'll have leaky fluid on the strut body and it'll be a bit bouncy up front.

@@sagittnet2158 yes boss I got mine dancing 🕺 when I hit those edgy road

@@jejemuntv5845 no bueno yan bossing, nag nose dive ba pag nag brake ka?

@@sagittnet2158 hindi nmn kuya dun lng sa mga may cutting minsan sa Daan

@@sagittnet2158 wala lng ako time at tools at place hahaha kaya dahan dahan lng takbo ko pang daily hahaha 😂

Oo nga eh! Kaya pala nararamdaman ko lahat amg kaso kasuan pag nafadaan sa mga lubak. Sira na pala ang shocks.

My tuner have told me about a brand from Oreilly's auto parts name import direct but it's for Acura and Honda's. You can give it a try and if it dont wirk out, it has a warranty and you can always return it.

You might have a short axle. You might wanna do a quick check for correct axle length on your car. Remove the axle nut (axle horizontally level) and push on the axle toward transmission and you should have 1/4" axle end protruding or 1/4" flush from the hub (maximum).

I thought maybe i had a short axle too but the thing is it's still the original one that the car came with just that it's started this thing recently and I'm driving a renault sandero 1.6 2009 model

@@doskii2695 okay, You might wanna check your suspension components. Jack it up and start shaking the tires, you might have some bad balljoints or rubber mounts.

@@sagittnet2158 will check on that thanks

No clunking or banging noise. The passenger door was vibrating so bad everytime l'm turning left or right. Hi speed no vibration what so ever.

If your rockers have no groove due to cam lobes digging its way, it should be alright. The ticking ususally come from LMA, are using spring type lma or hydaulic type. Spring type lma makes it quiter. I assumed you also using good valve springs for your sk2 cams.

I would keep the valve lashes to minimum settings, making it tighter will worn out your rockers or cam lobes. If you do have a spring type, check make sure that it's not broken or something. It's known spring lma's will break.

I have skunk 2 spring lmas brand new and supertech valve springs all brand new

@@anthonydixon2688 ok, my co worker have same issues like yours but on a B16 and he never did really figured ut out. He ended up exhanging his cyl head and never hear that ticking sound. If your valve lashes is all set correctly and you already have spring lma's. The only thing l can think of is maybe its bottoming out and if it does, the cam lobes will be digging on the rockers for sure but you dont experience any of that. Hmmmnn, l'll give some more thoughts and l'll ask my coworker again about. Do you think your valve is hitting the piston somehow or maybe you have a v2v clearance problem maybe. Did you degree your cams?

The ticking started after a pass when I was on rev limiter. Maybe something was off and a valve hit im not sure. Theyre stainless Ferrea valves. Hopefully I didn’t bend something. I have a pretty thick head gasket to lower compression so I can’t imaging I hit anything I’m not sure. They degreed -2 -2 (I’m assuming because of the headgasket width)

M2F4 no doubt! You'll have more response and fun driving H22 when couple w/ shorter gears tranny. M2K4 gears are much too long to be use on H22, unless you're motor is boosted, then it'll be different.

👌

Kool man!

Tnx!

H22 swap on Accord is pretty much plug n' play, It can get confusing when it comes to ecu and w/c fuel injectors to use. You can use 92-2001 H22 (H22a4) long block but since your car is OBD1 stay obd1 on your setup to prevent confusion. Use your 95 EX engine harness and before you disconnect it from your F22, put a masking tape on the connector and mark it. That way you'll know w/c sensor it came off from. You can lengthen it or unloom the wire and it should have enough slack to reach the sensor for iacv. Your ex harness need a few wiring, Knock sensor, IAB and you need to swap the 2 wires A6 and A11 at ecu end plug. You can always google search it to find out more info. Use P13 ECU and Obd1 H22 345cc injectors and it'll require a resistor w/c your car already have it. Engine mounts, EX rear mount is different than other Accord model. It has 4 bolts rather than 3, make sure to get the correct engine mount for the rear and use your existing rear T bracket. Tranny side, use existing mount and bracket. Driver side. Use H22 post mount w/ H22 engine mount for Accord. Hasport or innovative will be nice if you wish. Axle, use your existing driveshaft and intermediate shaft. I will include using P28 ecu and hardware seperate to prevent confusion.

Using P28 ecu and staying obd1. Use your EX engine harness and no need to add any wires for iab and knock sensor coz p28 is not seeing those sensor. A6 and a11 still need to be swap. When using chip P28 ecu, you can use H22 obd1 345cc (peak n hold) injectors w/ resistor or obd2 H22a4 265cc ( hi impedance injectors) and resistor is not needed anymore. You have to connect all the injector wires at the resistor side when using hi impedance injectors. Also you'll need a chip w/ h22 fuel base map in order for it to run.

You probably confuse already, you can always go to Honda-tech,com for more info. It's not a hard swap to do, you just really need to put your mind into it. The ecu and injectors are the items that really require some thinking coz if you accidentally use a injectors that require need a resistor or vice versa, you can do some damage on ecu. Make sure to put a marking on IAT , Iacv and EVap purge solenoid connectors coz it so easy to x cross those connectors and damage to ecu will occur. Once you gather all your parts, you can always leave a msg and l'll help you out.