Shim tabs for the lt caliper, l put it on the top and lower center. It's because of the 2 tabs for the rt pad are hitting the caliper lower guard. I had to made it thinner so it wont hit it. I'm going to change it like the shim l made for left side.
I’ve seen someone added a 5mm spacer for this similar setup. Would you happen to know which one is correct, the 3mm or 5 mm? However, I do know spoon sells the inner 3mm spacer.
Did you see the rotor hub centric hole is now sitting way passed the hub. That's the reason why l don't like using a spacer. Use 3mm instead of 5mm. I never have an issue for the last 7k miles w/o using any shim. You'll be alright with shim or w/o.
Hey man, long time no see? I love love those calipers they would look great in my SI. Lol, too bad they're too expensive for me, lol Hey, I have a quick question. So I finally go my hans in a H22 for my wagon, 180 bucks for the motor with all the accessories intake and exhaust manifolds, and engine harnesses. I couldn't believe it when the guy said that. But yea there's a catch, one of the intermediate shaft bolts whent right through the block wall, looks like someone tried to fix the thread but drilled too far. So that's gotta get fix. Also I was planning to get new pistons, but I just realized that the cylinders are FRM cylinders. The question is, how do I hone these cylinders? O where do I take them to get hone? Thanks in advance.
That's a good cacthed man! The hole on the block can get fix by welding and for the frm liner. I will advise to check the bore dia make sure it's still w/ in serviceable clearances especially for wall straightness. If clearances check ok and the liner does'nt catch your finger nails when you rub it, no need to hone it and frm sleeve not require honing unless its really bad. They say that any machine shop that specialize on Porsche engine can do it. H22 frm is very soft but if you want to try it, just give it a light honing up n' down action maybe like 5x and that's it. Remember to check the bore clearances prior to honing. That way you'll know how much clearances to work with and wont go oversize.
Thanks for the advice, brother. I will be measuring everything next week on my day off. I pretty sure it is fine, but you never know. All the cylinders look good and smooth, with no deep scratches. Also, the pistons look like new, you can still see the machining on the piston skirts. The main and rod bearings look amazing no deep scratches, obviously some wear but no deep scratches or excessive wear (lack of oil). Also, I've been looking at some nipon type s pistons. What are your thoughts? Should I use the type s pistons?, or should I stick with the base model pistons? I've posted in a FB group a bunch of pictures. I hope you get to see them. (Honda Accord CD4/CD5 1994-1997) that's the name of the fb group. You might have to joint the group.
@@w1ck3d22 That's good, no worries on the liner and for the pistons, stick w/ OE pistons. If building a hi comp for NA setup, use the oe type S rather than npr. Some folk are still having issue w/ it and it'll sux if it happen to your build. Frm sleeve is a different animal to deal w/, you may or maybe lucky that no damage will happen to it if you use other than OE pistons. I'll check it out on fb.
I just installed the calipers with success and have noticed the spoon caliper feels softer than my stock type R calipers. Do you also have the same issue? I’ve bled the system multiple times but have read that feelings is normal for spoon calipers.
Good to hear and it shouldn't feel softer like your R. Its should be noticeably much better. Coz right after l made a improved version of shim l added, it was really grabbing like it was 1st day l installed it. Does it feel like the pedal need to go down more in order for the brake pad to grab? What brand of pads are you using? This is my sequenced when l bled it. I started on the pax side caliper and bled the inboard side first and did the outboard next. Did the same steps on the driver side after. I think it probably need more fluid bleeding.
@@sagittnet2158 I do have to push further to stop the car and I don’t have any issues with the car stopping at all. I am also using the Nissin Type S Street Brake Pads FRONT Acura Integra Type R, 99-05 NSX, Prelude. I started bleeding the calipers from the passenger rear, driver side rear, passenger side front and then to the driver side. However for the spoon calipers, I bled it from the outside to the inside calipers. I’ve also read others on the forum with the same issues as well and assumed it maybe normal.
@@JohnnieIsBored try this method, removed both tires and removed the 2 guides on top of pads (both sides). Step on the brake pedal and let go. Go to the caliper and try to remove pad one at a time and pay attention on how much force it require for you to remove the pad ( it should be a bit tight and use a pick). If any pad require less force to slide out, that's the piston require more bleeding. That's how l found out that the 1st shim l added didn't worked and caused the pedal to go down more and after l made a improved shim and more bleeding after. It work like a charmed. Lmk your findings.
@@sagittnet2158 I have the 1 inch integra brake booster and master cylinder with stop tech braided lines. Also, it’s only soft when the car is on and the car idles rises when I pump the brakes. I believe that is normal
Is your rotor centered on the caliper? If not and l rhink when the pads are worn out pass the 50% of the pads. There's enough room on one side of the caliper and enough to make some noise. Try the put a shim like l did if your rotor is not in the center.
Sir, can you share what brand of mini cooper rotors you used para sa twin block spoon calipers mo? I have my twin block sitting and waiting to get installed. Initial option ko is Dicxel. But wala kasi available dito sa atin. I still have to get it from Japan. Thank you!
It's 2007 Mini Cooper type S or Clubman, pero tingnan mo din ang size description. Dito sa eh bastat 07 Mini, ang rotor eh 280mm. Pero kailangan mo pa din ng lugs centering rings. Malaki kasi ang mga butas ng Cooper rotor para sa lugs.
@@sagittnet2158 I will try and check sir. But si Dixcel meron talagang 282mm. Problem nun sa Japan pa ako pwede makakuha. Will also try yung sa mini pag pasok naman talaga siya, problem solved nako
Very good solution! Could you make a template on paper and scan it?
I pretty much copied the pads and l just got done on the left side and l made a much improve version of the shim. It's a on short video. Thanks
Shim tabs for the lt caliper, l put it on the top and lower center. It's because of the 2 tabs for the rt pad are hitting the caliper lower guard. I had to made it thinner so it wont hit it. I'm going to change it like the shim l made for left side.
The rotor spacer is also required on Integra 4x100. The 3mm difference is in the actual 5lug hub, not the knuckle.
I’ve seen someone added a 5mm spacer for this similar setup. Would you happen to know which one is correct, the 3mm or 5 mm? However, I do know spoon sells the inner 3mm spacer.
This is the reference I’m referring to where the person added a 5mm instead.
ruclips.net/video/hUHkKtldixc/видео.htmlsi=h33hD1orYwbvnYpz
Did you see the rotor hub centric hole is now sitting way passed the hub. That's the reason why l don't like using a spacer. Use 3mm instead of 5mm. I never have an issue for the last 7k miles w/o using any shim. You'll be alright with shim or w/o.
Thanks and it's good to know.
Hey man, long time no see?
I love love those calipers they would look great in my SI.
Lol, too bad they're too expensive for me, lol
Hey, I have a quick question. So I finally go my hans in a H22 for my wagon, 180 bucks for the motor with all the accessories intake and exhaust manifolds, and engine harnesses. I couldn't believe it when the guy said that. But yea there's a catch, one of the intermediate shaft bolts whent right through the block wall, looks like someone tried to fix the thread but drilled too far. So that's gotta get fix.
Also I was planning to get new pistons, but I just realized that the cylinders are FRM cylinders. The question is, how do I hone these cylinders? O where do I take them to get hone?
Thanks in advance.
That's a good cacthed man! The hole on the block can get fix by welding and for the frm liner. I will advise to check the bore dia make sure it's still w/ in serviceable clearances especially for wall straightness. If clearances check ok and the liner does'nt catch your finger nails when you rub it, no need to hone it and frm sleeve not require honing unless its really bad. They say that any machine shop that specialize on Porsche engine can do it. H22 frm is very soft but if you want to try it, just give it a light honing up n' down action maybe like 5x and that's it. Remember to check the bore clearances prior to honing. That way you'll know how much clearances to work with and wont go oversize.
Thanks for the advice, brother. I will be measuring everything next week on my day off. I pretty sure it is fine, but you never know. All the cylinders look good and smooth, with no deep scratches. Also, the pistons look like new, you can still see the machining on the piston skirts. The main and rod bearings look amazing no deep scratches, obviously some wear but no deep scratches or excessive wear (lack of oil).
Also, I've been looking at some nipon type s pistons. What are your thoughts? Should I use the type s pistons?, or should I stick with the base model pistons?
I've posted in a FB group a bunch of pictures. I hope you get to see them.
(Honda Accord CD4/CD5 1994-1997) that's the name of the fb group. You might have to joint the group.
@@w1ck3d22 That's good, no worries on the liner and for the pistons, stick w/ OE pistons. If building a hi comp for NA setup, use the oe type S rather than npr. Some folk are still having issue w/ it and it'll sux if it happen to your build. Frm sleeve is a different animal to deal w/, you may or maybe lucky that no damage will happen to it if you use other than OE pistons. I'll check it out on fb.
I just installed the calipers with success and have noticed the spoon caliper feels softer than my stock type R calipers. Do you also have the same issue? I’ve bled the system multiple times but have read that feelings is normal for spoon calipers.
Good to hear and it shouldn't feel softer like your R. Its should be noticeably much better. Coz right after l made a improved version of shim l added, it was really grabbing like it was 1st day l installed it. Does it feel like the pedal need to go down more in order for the brake pad to grab? What brand of pads are you using? This is my sequenced when l bled it. I started on the pax side caliper and bled the inboard side first and did the outboard next. Did the same steps on the driver side after. I think it probably need more fluid bleeding.
@@sagittnet2158 I do have to push further to stop the car and I don’t have any issues with the car stopping at all. I am also using the Nissin Type S Street Brake Pads FRONT Acura Integra Type R, 99-05 NSX, Prelude. I started bleeding the calipers from the passenger rear, driver side rear, passenger side front and then to the driver side. However for the spoon calipers, I bled it from the outside to the inside calipers. I’ve also read others on the forum with the same issues as well and assumed it maybe normal.
@@JohnnieIsBored try this method, removed both tires and removed the 2 guides on top of pads (both sides). Step on the brake pedal and let go. Go to the caliper and try to remove pad one at a time and pay attention on how much force it require for you to remove the pad ( it should be a bit tight and use a pick). If any pad require less force to slide out, that's the piston require more bleeding. That's how l found out that the 1st shim l added didn't worked and caused the pedal to go down more and after l made a improved shim and more bleeding after. It work like a charmed. Lmk your findings.
Usually if there is air on the system, after car use. The piston will retract back and pads will be loose than normal.
I need this on my ej1 setup kua
Sisiw yan sayo choi!
Which type of brake fluid did you use for your car?
I'm still using Prestone DOT3
@@sagittnet2158 I’ve also noticed that the spoon caliper feels more softer than my original setup with the Type R calipers.
@@JohnnieIsBored what size is your brake master cylinder and what car do you have it on? Is it Integra or Civic?
@@sagittnet2158 I have the 1 inch integra brake booster and master cylinder with stop tech braided lines. Also, it’s only soft when the car is on and the car idles rises when I pump the brakes. I believe that is normal
My brake pads keep on rattling all over the place
Is your rotor centered on the caliper? If not and l rhink when the pads are worn out pass the 50% of the pads. There's enough room on one side of the caliper and enough to make some noise. Try the put a shim like l did if your rotor is not in the center.
Sir, can you share what brand of mini cooper rotors you used para sa twin block spoon calipers mo? I have my twin block sitting and waiting to get installed. Initial option ko is Dicxel. But wala kasi available dito sa atin. I still have to get it from Japan. Thank you!
It's 2007 Mini Cooper type S or Clubman, pero tingnan mo din ang size description. Dito sa eh bastat 07 Mini, ang rotor eh 280mm. Pero kailangan mo pa din ng lugs centering rings. Malaki kasi ang mga butas ng Cooper rotor para sa lugs.
@@sagittnet2158 sa knowledge ko kasi sir dapat 282mm ang kailangan natin sa ek. Pero hindi ko lang alam if may 282mm sa mini or 280 lang talaga.
@@budtv_ actually yun sa mini eh 280mm pero l think its more than that. Kasi ang pads eh pasok sa loob. No overhang. Nasanay lang ako na 280mm
@@sagittnet2158 I will try and check sir. But si Dixcel meron talagang 282mm. Problem nun sa Japan pa ako pwede makakuha. Will also try yung sa mini pag pasok naman talaga siya, problem solved nako
Why not put a washer on the bolt of the caliper