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Thank you first video showing bridge setup fixing in clear English!

Those pickup covers, where do you get them?

What brand is that tremolo bridge?

Very good explanation, thank you. Still wondering if this applies to multiscale bridges... 8 string.

Always interesting to here what others use. Personally, I'm finding a no3/no4 is not so great for scarf joints; I prefer a 4 1/2 and 5 1/4(Millers Falls no 10 and 11 in my case). 4 1/2 gives more width and the 5 1/4 gives more length in a very compact size making it easy to control. For shooting board, I think a no 6 is excellent and for acoustic tops I like a Stanley A6 specifically. Denser woods are better with the standard no 6. Squirrel Tail plans, both flat and curved are useful and I like the Stanley 9 1/2 block plane. Not a fan of low angle planes. Cool that every can get good results with tools that they relate to, no right or wrong ways of making guitars!

You really do make it sound so much harder than it is. and as for shims pushing frets out on older instruments......never in your life. Good to see a bloke doing his own necks though. So many people posing as builders now is nuts.

Brilliant! A very comprehensive lesson. You've helped me so much thanks.

Thank you from Sweden. 👍

Nickel/Silver- Jescar 58118 or Dunlop 6000

Does the PRS-CS24 have an angled neck? What's the angle?

If you're getting premade neck shims, you can measure the distance from the front of the neck pocket to the bridge saddles, plug that figure along with the desired increase in bridge saddle height into an online triangle calculator to give you an angle for the shim.

Could you go into more details about how to plan out the faceted carve on the neck?

I am poised on the edge of jumping into the expense and time of doing a proper level, crown dress and polish on my guitar. This video was very helpful - it definitely goes beyond what I have seen on the Crimson Guitars website - which seems to be the main online Luthier site here in the UK. Great job - thanks very much for taking the time to do this

Thanks! Just reviewing for my second build. Thank you for helping to teach me to build.

What a lovely video, by a truly lovely bloke… thanks Shaun 👍🏼🎸

I advise those who have heavy fingers to use 6130 stainless steel frets. 6130 frets avoid accuracy problems, and stainless steel avoids premature wear of the frets which also produces tuning issues to a lesser extent.

Great tutorial thanks.

phenomenal video, crazy how this made my feed

The SS 6105 frets on my K-Line tele are great. Easy and accurate.

You've cleared s much up for me!! Thank you soo much.

And I thought I knew all about intonation🤣 The more I learn the less I know. I solved my tune-o-matic problems by using Nashville bridges, which has a wider setting range than a standard ABR-1 bridge. Nice grain on the guitar. Is that swamp ash (my favourite)? Thanks for the really useful and well presented info. I will definitely check out the rest of your stuff 𝄢🎶

There is one aspect I'd like to see addressed that NO ONE talks about. First I'll say, I'm a fan of SS simply because I have to see shady luthiers much less frequently if at all. But the only thing I DON'T like is they never get ANY flat spot on them, that flat spot you get when a well broken in guitar has the BEST tone. That contact point is so important. And yes, I know the intonation isn't perfect. But I've played on pointy frets with great intonation but felt like SHT. That flat spot needs to be engineered into the scale and understood from a tone aspect. SS doesn't give the best tone, not because of the material, but because they never get that broken in contact point. Would love a response and a respectful conversation about it. I know this is not an unknown subject, because Gibson used to put flat crowns on their guitars. My 99 SG Std. had them, until I eventually needed work on it. Totally changed the tone and feel.

I own the fairly recent Fender CD-60SCE acoustic guitar from 2019 and it has 43080 type frets, which for me seem "small" and not exactly comfortable.

There’s no “th” in height. Rhythms with “right”. 😃

Brilliant! Thanks for the education!

Excellent. Finally an explanation of why a guitar might need neck angle and a method for measuring that. Thank you!

booboo u

I was under the impression Licenced Strat Necks have a slight upward pitch and the neck pocket has a slight downward pitch

Absolutely brilliant! You described all the concepts of neck angles fully and explained the options and how to decide which option you need to choose. It's everything I wanted to know for building my first electric guitar. Thank you!

Hobbyists woodworker here, been a machine tool woodworker for 35 years (a Disciple of Norm) but have in the last 15 years been turned on to hand tool woodworking. I’ve been mesmerized by some of the amazing “tool walls” on RUclips but am leaning towards a traditional English tool box possibly on top of a rolling cart with drawers in it to bring the height up a bit (I’m apparently not getting any younger, which I must say is seriously annoying;) great video and nice kit !

finally! luthier that talk in milimeters !, so sick with inches

Thanks!!

I'm adding a trem block to a body where the routing is already done for the block, but no mounting holes for the bridge screws...so use the same 'high E saddle all the way forward' system?...find the scale length point using the high E saddle all the way forward, then square and center the bridge, and...voila...correct?...mark where the screw holes shall be drilled and that should be the correct spot for the trem bridge... Also, do you have any videos on how to set the spring/string tension for a Strat-style floating tremolo system that will ultimately stay in tune? Just discovered your channel, you explain it in easy to understand terms...thanks! Subscribed.

Thanks Mate! Super helpful

The biggest Frets in stainless. They are so silky smooth, nothing else feels so good

Thanks Sean - just fitted my first bridge on my first build tonight. Easy tutorial to follow, and explains the concepts perfectly.

Need to refret my 1971 Silvertone Teisco. It has ( medium?) jumbo fret on it. Doing as much research(and buying tools) before I dare start. Ps my Squire CV 70’s Jaguar has the vintage tiny frets in stainless.

Guitar picks work great

Superb video, this has saved me countless headaches and time. Awesome job and I’m going to be digging through your others. Keep up the great work. Nice looking bass too

This was actually a great video for a guy thinking about doing a Warmoth project. Thanks bud

Great video! What type of paper do you use to draw the design?

3:40 I heard the trigonometry term as “conical” radius. Once it was explained that way to me, it all clicked lol

You said that compound radius numbers represent 1st and last fret, but most common explanation is that it is 1st and 12th fret. Is there any luthier standard on this?

Thank you once again for your videos. I had no idea you could make a thinner crowning with a 320grit paper. It helped a lot

at 3:10 when you measure the scale length, the ruler is bending from the height of the neck to the lower height of the body. Doesn't that cause issues with the actual measurement? Should the ruler stay straight and not bend down?

I'm about to do this on my first "build", a parts P Bass with fretless neck and Longhorn pickups/electronics. I've drilled and fitted the neckplate and neck. It was a tad low but otherwise accurate. This is an excellent explanation as I had already finished the body and was concerned about messing up the finish.

Awesome. I resetted all my saddles to 25" from the back of nut (PRS) to the centre of saddle. Then i intonate each string accordingly.

Very good! The information is priceless, I'm try to start making a few

Great info

Loved your video. I'm planning to build an inexpensive headless, weight reduced Les Paul. Any suggestions you have on bridges & necks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Again