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@@vwcoco holy cow... I can not thank you enough... Honestly reading this message is how I found out ... Thank you once again for your support throughout the years

@@vwcoco definitely going to send you some merch when I get some new in... I've been slacking big time on the restocking

@@airkooledmotorwerks Cool well deserved sir

Very much appreciated... Five away as of the time of this comment

@@airkooledmotorwerks 3 now 👍good luck

@@vwcoco as always very much appreciated. I remember when you joined I don't think I even had 50 subscribers at the point Thank you for sticking around and I very much appreciate it

@@airkooledmotorwerks no worries 2 more to go 👍

@@vwcoco definitely giving you a shout out in next Monday video as tomorrows is already uploaded and scheduled... Thanks again

@@b-rys8527 I ended up opening a whole new can of worms with my shroud because probably two months after this video I ended up putting in a three core aluminum radiator (factory one cracked )

What can I help you with?

@@charlesloar3210 if it wasn't so well done to begin with, my approach definitely would have been different. I knew wiring was going to be in this cars future and I was geared up to replace everything because my luck with most every sandrail is the wiring is normally a mess especially when something has sat and is also been through a fire. I was happy to see none of the main harness was damaged and only about 10% had to be rewired. I have more time in scratching my head and tracing wires than I do actually pulling new.

@@charlesloar3210 awesome tip definitely going to start doing that for sure, I've always just been careful with a rubber mallet. But I do enjoy making my life easier. Thank you

@@yttkuar I just use your standard 5$ test light nothing special for testing and as far as the fire, from what I was told the car was in one not actually the cause of it. Unfortunately it was Just collateral damage in the building it was stored. That's why pretty much all the plastics are melty

@@76UVB I have heard this way to many times, the fuel injection beetles are the only ones you can get away with it in as long as you have short manifolds as the (interior structure is different/wider)... That being said you still can't put the carbs on because they will hit so in my opinion you don't save any time anyway.

@@airkooledmotorwerks Thanks for confirming it's not just me.

@@76UVB definitely not just you

Very seldom do I get to use it on a VW for actual oil filters, secretly it's my distributor wrench they really do work well when they are being stubborn... Lol

@@demRucks so am I hopefully this thing is going to be a ripper ... Currently trying to figure out the electric in it now

@@yttkuar the bracket that came with the kit is designed for stock lower control arms and work perfectly for that application (used them many times) these are widened fully boxed aftermarket they are much bigger in all accounts then factory. It sucked that the original calipers that were on here are of an obsolete design otherwise I would just ordered them and put them on without any modifications needed. But at least moving forward the calipers on the car now or of the modern design that everybody supplies

@@vwcoco Thank you so much I remember when you hit 1k, and yes it's 100x better with these new carbs on it

@@Minitrucker231 2.2L and I'm guessing sub 2000lbs it should be a blast to drive when it's all done. Not going to lie I'm a bit excited to drive it

@@airkooledmotorwerks man I don't blame you one bit. It'll be one hell of a ride for sure

@@RJLM330 ordered a new spindle nut to completely replace that one forgot to mention that in the video

@@masterhacker1989 oh please believe very well aware video that just got posted today on the car is going through the entire braking system

@@masterhacker1989 headlight both high and low beam, turns signals, brake lights, wipers, glass or MR windshields, horn and seatbelts as it is titled as a 1970 that's it car just has to be brought up to spec per what it's being registered as... A defroster is not a requirement in KY.

@@justinthomson2310 I 100% agree with your mechanic assessment please believe I fought this car so hard to try to keep the fuel injection only reason that got swapped is it was beyond saveable... Unfortunately I do not have the relay I stated in one of my videos on this car that all the injection parts went back to the owner for the reason if he ever sold the car the next owner might want to have it and go through all the problems and dollars of recommissioning it

@@airkooledmotorwerks gotcha. Well, I’m a big fan, keep doing what you do!!

@@justinthomson2310 very much appreciated. Thank you

Much appreciated... Definitely excited to get this one back on the road

Yes the steam trick would work on a single carburetor as well but in that instance if you do not have a cylinder firing you would either have lack of compression bad plug or a bad wire hardly ever wouldn't be a fueling issue for one cylinder... If you're 2 down on the same bank you might have a massive vacuum like somewhere.

Also the wiring's probably going to be the last thing I do on this car... My typical steps in any process are 1) evaluate health of engine 2) brakes 3) will it move 4) electrical 5) hopefully delivery 😂

@@alexherrera3918 built it in house specifically for this owner's Jeep

@@alexherrera3918 I'm a air cooled Volkswagen specialty shop so it only made sense to me to put a Volkswagen carburetor on the CJ2A and get rid of the antiquated carburetor that was on it in favor of more tunability and electric choke

@@airkooledmotorwerks ok thanks!!!

@@OwhyeeVdub 1700cc

@airkooledmotorwerks thanks, I'm going with a 38 on my 2021 for my square back.

@@OwhyeeVdub Heck yes... Let me know how it goes I personally haven't installed a 38 on anything bigger than an 1800 cc . Pretty much anything past that I end up going duals

Awesome wedding present, I'm sure you have many stories mad with it.

@@airkooledmotorwerks Sure do.

Can’t remember the exact engine size but it was a 2L. CA model.

@@RJLM330 best 20$ ever It's bailed me out more times than I can count on one hand lol

@@roberthornstein4382 typically that's what I would do except the jugs are leaking where they slide into the block as well along with a rear main leak. Now .... So unfortunately if it doesn't self heal the engine's going to have to be removed regardless unfortunately

@@yttkuar for sure, I don't think The engine in the bus has been rebuilt I also don't know if it's the original engine to the bus nor does the owner but yeah he definitely has to get some miles on it so hopefully burn off whatever residual oils left in the system. And like I said if it persists it's going to come back in and probably get a top end rebuild

@@darolfitch8917 yes the noise picks up a lot more on my mic then in person, it's a combination between a bad alternator bearing and a baffle in the muffler being loose or broken. Didn't realize how much louder it actually sounded till I was editing this video. You can even see I was concerned about the noise when I stated it sounded like it was coming from the bottom end completely my fault for not following up on that after I figured out where it was coming from. And time is definitely going to tell on the oil burn off owner currently has the bus and is well aware of the issue so he is going to monitor it.

@@ericwhiteside9806 I have never worked on a 72 fuel injected bus... Everything I've seen or have worked on has been 74 or later can you please provide a source in a US model having 72 fuel injection please and thank you

Interesting to find Rock Auto sells the electric fuel pump and injector for the 1.7l in 1972, i do remember my buddies fathers bus being carbs but i don’t remember the engine size he had. I had a 64 bug at that time and helped him with a tuneup , points, plugs and setting the timing with my dads timing light. Good video, brings back memories!

@@johnchambers12 type 3s had fuel injection way before buses and the fuel pump is the same throughout all model years whether it's a beetle a type 3 or a bus so RockAuto might just be doing a generic listing. And like I said as far as my personal experience / anything I can even find buses didn't get fuel injection till late 74/75 anything earlier should have had twin carbs. Please believe these vehicles are older than me and I only can go off of information that I either personally have had or what I've read

@airkooledmotorwerks maybe I got confused... I know they switched to the type 3 2.0 engines in 72. I assumed they were fuel injected liked the type 3s.

@@ericwhiteside9806 All good maybe... you were thinking 72 being the first year for the pancake engine in a bus, but as far as I know L-Jet was on buses from 74ish on as well as the 914 also the beetle and type 3 came with d-jet in 68 They run two different style fi systems

@@brianchisnell1548 respectfully disagree.... If the owner cared about stock the car wouldn't be lowered with a 1641cc and a 12 volt charging system. It's one of his fun cars that he takes out every so often It's not a daily driver so it's more for the "smiles per gallon" than the "miles per gallon" with this one.

@@PoundNetTexas lack of gloves and hot parts just remind me that I am not immortal It's a decent reality check for me... I always find that there is a fine line between safety and complacency not to get so preachy on you... Not saying you should work unsafe just saying you should be or I should be more aware of my surroundings

@@RJLM330 The adjustable struts I put on just use the factory spring but you need to order the shock that goes into the adjustable strut You cannot use the factory and yes this kit can get you two to four inches just on the strut, The kids you see with the springs usually give you an additional two to four inches of lowering depending on the spring you purchase. With that said there are two ways to lower the super struct kit which I put on and factory springs or you can just put on lowering springs and keep your factory struts. Hope that makes sense please ask any follow-ups hard to explain

Should have listened more. You said that u will probably lower the Bug. How would u do that? What kind of spring compressor would you recommend I get. I have only done this 1 x in my life and want to keep living.

@@RJLM330 do you have a harbor freight by you? Because that is the set I was using if not I'm sure I can find an eBay or Amazon product is about the same as what I was using. And yes the reason for those struts was to do about a 2-in drop give or take to level out the ride kind of what you were talking about wanting done on your bug

This is the link to the lowering strut assemblies You would need for your 71... Your car has a three bolt flange that holds it to the spindle unlike the two bolt that I installed everything else is the same as far as adjusting or installation on top end in the strut tower www2.cip1.com/acc-c10-4060-kit/

Link to the same style spring compressor tool I used if you have a harbor freight by you you can pick up the Maddox kit which is the exact kit I used www.ebay.com/itm/292636853341?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D270119%2C270060%2C269853%26meid%3Dbf9d556f63584f869b253e115616340f%26pid%3D101875%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D296324808825%26itm%3D292636853341%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithLambda85KnnRecallV1V2V4ItemNrtInQueryAndCassiniVisualRankerAndBertRecallWithVMEV3EmbeddedAuctionsCPCAutoWithCassiniEmbRecallManualCVRShadow%26brand%3DECCPP&_trksid=p2332490.c101875.m1851&itmprp=cksum%3A292636853341bf9d556f63584f869b253e115616340f%7Cenc%3AAQAJAAABoGjWmJM3XlNBfm3pn9GuNq%252BGWKzd5GI3fOSRV0RJa0PIUtbjiU5SKzZJcUtz6RJRXhEwjjacoLRnvLh84yQ2WYnZmbF9wrEKBX6G9Arc3QGXnOP5fdmSHfRgavVI82R07t%252BnUJXzuIQ%252BD5QyF1lfNuIGqAWM4e5yVzNQot0tleTAcudluOBjqFCfQOS9bJeOlfVe3pKy46zjWepWZKYQhX38HpGQ99SbBl3ljjDasrUBG3lHz8XpQmTekSRI%252BW99n8%252BE%252BSam1%252FCm%252FRo3jlrEAGk%252F6NjCJ0afn4Pm6wZ54JGUllcp7MW06fVvtWDR23XFbwvlkMems8Lt2Xruz9vpm%252FGWbL8JpBpXkTkI20Gssrp%252BfdqTxAtfd15r%252FHbG3ihhmq5PlxTUOCc7C1Uaen3ciaht%252Fte4gBZ9GotY%252BmCbfXcPmFkcHhQrl6S2lxo%252BI%252BjKUgzUuB4UrSsDcNxz4YWgHUzkEkPXZMQZmlJClPAwnqsYLCvmpTOhVEFQrjfJv2sP%252BtF5YFtMAP9HEVYCdGnmw0i0VbuDzltLOobQmH2u6ZUd%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490&epid=5023544073&itmmeta=01J3KSPE083ZMFT8SDV2TZC25W

@@roberthornstein4382 100% agree.. pump is currently pushing 2psi so not a psi problem, that's why I am just replacing the carb because of the needle and seat issue. Cheaper for the customer for me just to replace the unit then rebuild it. Truly appreciate the input Thank you

@@charlesloar3210 much appreciated as always

@@charlesloar3210 the electric pump isn't routed through the old pump because that was my first thought (had many Chevy/GM's do this because of a bad diaphragm) main reason I'm comfortable saying the bowl got stuck and key was left on. Awesome comment for checking me and thinking outside of the box. Thank you

@@MrFrame-ur8lj it's definitely a creative fix that I'm not mad about... Hahaha

@@yttkuar I did notice that when I was editing the video and watched it like three times because I thought I was crazy when I saw it the first time, turns out it was a bug that flew right in front of my camera... The timing was perfect with the cranking and I thought it was a spark

@@airkooledmotorwerks I thought I was crazy too. A bug! I was sure it was a spark. So glad you set my mind at ease. Always great videos! Thanks

@@yttkuar yeah the timing was wild... I record in 1080p 60fps so it's clear on my end when I'm editing but my software condenses it down for RUclips too 720-30FPS Just because of filed size and upload time on my end

www.ebay.com/itm/116035491114?var=416193130528&itmmeta=01J3FM9YQETV19QEBAV2MZ6XV7&hash=item1b0441152a:g:thsAAOSwGmZlnn1n&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABIAfGYYMP%2BRZcFTku4zZP0i%2F9y0TOqxXQyr6NXqDRDSWB9Dtii7JRhMwBnYHiMu4Zz18cEbtWWAPWYAAEFjFveED61nNE7iJnzIGlQeKb42WWlBI8sdDtQOzbTLQ0UHvCAcLnPVr5jUDEVMGByW%2BLyJO87VXoqnhf2i0zLQPVwlQXUoBA%2FgRlgF5r7x6O2FRzPznhsDnD8tYrOeBI2t4OTmww0bS1XLIf517KE48M4ML4rQGr240zdNE61Ej1%2Bmlf9EnEjvlQQf7%2FTamwH73pUwyxjzclfBXnrXJci8GQo76zeu5fRONSxvKcl0acedOvsWjS8rxomraOkP1A6oPY5SPK0bQoViDBRboGnYskMMAxj9BZ2eiHdJmKPU8RzjyHyQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_Lrp_SbZA

Simple reason thankfully why it didn't blow up with all the fuel were the conditions weren't met, either being no ignition source or too many fumes and not enough oxygen to ignite... Owner definitely got lucky with this one. And yes the float bowl was stuck down causing the carburetor to overfill and to pour into the engine cylinders which filled the crankcase full. And as far as I know this development happened the last time the owner tried to drive it, he said the engine was running then stopped and wouldn't refire so unsure about the timeline of how long the key was left on after it stopped running.

Hmm. It's hot-wired, not controlled by the injection brain any more. Not good policy.

Hmm. Crankcase full o'gas gives a whole new meaning to the tired phrase "driving an old bomb".

@@nomadradio this has always been a carbureated engine, The mechanical fuel pump is still present but is no longer functioning someone else installed the electric pump that is on it currently. A pressure switch would only work if it builds pressure as you stated, sticking float bowl obviously would not build pressure so it would be pointless. As long as you don't leave your key on in the accessory position with the engine not running the electric fuel pump works exactly the same as a mechanical pump with a stick and float bowl with the exception of if you leave your key on it will just fill the engine full of fuel really the only thing you have to be mindful of.

@@nomadradio no injection brain always has been carbureted

Also this is a 72 should have been fitted originally with twin carbs fuel injection wasn't an option for the bus until something like 75 ish

@@beetle3578 very much appreciated also I truly try to be as honest as I can be hence im dumb enough to put everything I do on the Internet 🤣 better than just giving a customer a receipt and saying I did the work

@@yttkuar 🤣the screwdriver trick always blows people's minds when I do it especially when I chuck it into a drill to prime and oil pump on a Chevy ... As for the rest your question I'll actually cut a video tonight on my thoughts about it, definitely would be easier and quasi-faster to answer and video format versus typing it all out if that makes sense

Didn't forget about you should have a video reply up Thursday

@@airkooledmotorwerks I'll be watching for it. Thanks

@@RJLM330 www.ebay.com/itm/284584144427

@@RJLM330 Also to my age I am well aware I I age like fine milk Thank you for pointing that out 🤣

Also make sure you have a good ground to everything I have had problems with bad readings because they gauge wasn't grounded correctly.

@@airkooledmotorwerks yep got ground

@@michaelmounts1269 I have never had to cut holes for tuning... They make 90° screwdrivers that will avoid doing such a thing and make your life easier

@@michaelmounts1269 www.amazon.com/Motion-Degree-Driver-Carb-Tool/dp/B077SQH8J8/ref=asc_df_B077SQH8J8/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693695091839&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15048487018794603362&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9014233&hvtargid=pla-1670524039122&psc=1&mcid=fb1ee35baa4432b58d9ddcce93f7b0dd&gad_source=1 Is the one I use

@@ericwhiteside9806 not fully, just need to pull it forward about half way to remove. One of the videos on this car has the install of the original float I took out hence why I didn't show putting this one in

@@lpwright www.amazon.com/dp/B0CFW1VVB8?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 Same one I also install in Ghias to get away from factory... But any 73-10 ohm scale gauge will work, I personally just like this one because it's programmed with multiple ohms ranges as well as backlight colors if you're running it in a car

@@charlesloar3210 much appreciated... Thank you for watching

Please believe I've been there... That's why I have that standalone gauge I use it for a quick visual reference if the float's working. It's much easier to look at a gauge and see what the float is reading versus reading the numbers on a voltmeter in my opinion

This one had me guess for a bit as I very seldom run across a bad fuel gauge itself 9 out of 10 it's the float. With that said my tunnel vision kicked on and I was solely concentrating on the float Also this is the first where I've had float and gauge bad at the same time which was making my diag process a little more fun lol

The shimmy is typically a bad bush somewhere for sure, and definitely agree with not using The urethane bushings and I only use them if customer supplied, requested or on the odd chance it's the only thing I can get

@@airkooledmotorwerks Thanks for the reply! I also have had the fuel smell for the past 25 years... I've never been able to find it! I just drive with the top down, that seems to work! 🤣🤣

@@lieutbob39 I've worked on everything from full restorations to barn finds to everything in-between, some cars have it and some cars don't to me it's just a VW thing.

Most definitely, if the injection system is operational and maintained it's awesome.

@@roberthornstein4382 for sure... The cars injection system is way past it's prim on this one it's been cobbled together though the years before we started working on it. It's great around town but highway isn't kind to it and tends to run hot... Owners discussion is he is probably going to retire the injection in favor of dual carbs because it's starting to nickel and dime him to keep it and he just wants to be able to enjoy the car.. he also owns the seafoam one that's on the channel and that's also making him go towards that discussion. Beginning of the evening everything will go in a box and if you ever want to revert back to injection he has the option