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Cool, thanks 😊 Of course you should brewing beer 😊

Yep… If I want the channel to grow a little, I have to pay… Just making content that people like is not enough anymore…

I'd say it's a waste of your money and my time. Please filter your ads better!

@JimmyHedman You’re not a homebrewer? You’re always free to watch the things you like on RUclips and what you don’t like 😊

I actually don’t know 😉 I talked to some people about it, because I have done to 5-6 fridges. My philosophy was always to drill whole up near the top and I had no problems so far. Some fridges has lines inside the sides, so you can be unlucky. So if you really want to be sure, you have to ask an expert 😊

When cooling, so it wont boil, but still get pasteurized. Så around 85degC 😊 But I also made a commercial brew were we added it at fæaneout and that was great too

Thank you soo much 😃🙏

Yes 😊

Thanks for your comment and support ❤️

Exactly the right thing to do 😃💪

Awsome, I hope it turns out well. Sounds very interesting :)

Cheers 😊 I also enjoy both styles. And schwarzbier too 😂

Yes 😊 What did I call it? 😉

@@Beerstories I don't think you said but I may have missed it, thanks for the videos!

@linmeyer4341 You’re welcome 😊

Det spiller ingen rolle, da det jo er tryk, der presser vandet igennem filteret 😊

You’re welcome 😊 Hope you can use it 😃💪

Yes, that would work 😊

First of all, you probably need 2 sachets of yeast… You can calculate it here: beerstories.dk/index.php/en/gudies/yeast-guide You don’t need to aerate when using dry yeast. It’s dried at a time were it holds a lot of nutrients, so it is “super charged” 😉 I would let it ferment for about 5-6 days untill fermentation slows down and them ramp the temp to 23decC for a week. Then you’re a hundred procent sure everything is fine 😊

@@Beerstories OK, great! thank you! I also seen some of your other recipes on your website, you ferment the Ales at around 18°C with two packets of US-05. Is it better to ferment with the lower end temperature of recommended dry yeast? Or can I have the temperature at 20°C? What are the different outcomes when fermenting at 18°C or 20°C?

Lower temp gives less fruity esters. So it depends a little on what you want your beers to taste like 😊

@@Beerstories Thank you so much for this info. I'll have a brew day in a few days, so i'm excited to try out like you purposed 😉 much appreciated!! 😉

Cool, let me know how it turns out 😊

Yes, you can dump the yeast if you have a conical. But I would like to know how you will rack to a secondary fermenter without any oxygen contact? The only way I see that happening is to do an oxygen free transfer to a keg. Or from one conical to another transferred with CO2, which is the same as a keg... By racking to a secondary and exposing for oxygen you're trying to solve a problem that isn't there with a solution that gives you more problems. I can make quality beer just as good as the good breweries without a secondary fermentation. An the beer isn't cleaner. I got clear beer and perfect beer without a secondary. The reason why breweries get the the beer of the yeast fast by dumping it, is often to reuse it or to get the hops out, actually. The reason why the breweries use a bright tank is to clear the beer (for up to 120 days - lager) and get it of the yeast to avoid autolysis. So it's to prevent bad beer and not to enhance flavor. That is not a risk with our small batches of beer. The pressure is too low for autolysis to happen the first couple of months.

@@Beerstories i mostly agree. I especially agree that the old notion of fermenting beer in a secondary is generally not a good one for most homebrewers. The traditional process is a bad tradeoff for the reasons you bring up, particularly o2 pickup. However, you understate the purpose and value of the removal of cold break and yeast bed. And you also frame the function of the bright tank a bit too narrowly. And I'm not sure why you're so incredulous as to a homebrewer ability to perform effective anaerobic transfers. I basically use the same process at home as in the breweries. In the brewery I need to be very careful too, but I'm not afraid of racking beer and running it through all manner of vessel, centrifuges, hop dosing devices, filters tanks etc. I have a solid process to perform similar tasks at home on a smaller scale (i don't use a centrifuge and abandoned filters a long time ago). I wouldn't say that dumping yeast is primarily for harvesting. There are propagation systems generally used for that purpose. We dump yeast to achieve better quality, reducing hop-yeast interaction and autolysis (in certain beers). Removing cold break reduces the chance of oxidation and decomposition of proteins for consistency and longer shelf-life, yada yada. We can argue how essential these considerations are for home brewing. And there's always the contingent that denies that any of these matter at all. But brewery consultants and brewmasters don't deny these quality concerns, and that's why most all breweries use a similar process. Minor point, is that you gloss over the purpose and value of a bright tank for maturing beer. That said, the lines as to where to mature the beer fermenter or bright tank can be blurred. The decision is typically affected by brewery throughput demands. (If not, the unitank concept would be more viable in breweries) and there's kinda the same problem with using conical fermenters at home. I'm not going to be happy with one fermenter. I want six. So I will replicate the process with a transfer *when appropriate*. That process is closed loop under light CO2 pressure. And while no one can achieve 100% anaerobic transfers, home brewers have some good processes that can meet or exceed the expectations of many breweries because we're running the process like a small chem lab. Its part of the fun of brewing for those who enjoy the attention to detail. Also when I transfer a beer to another tank from my fermenter, while the yeast is still active, the O2 pickup that does occur can be negligible because it will get scavenged by the active yeast. Also keep in mind that through this very process, the beer has been cleared of much of the matter most vulnerable to oxidation.

You are right, but most homebrewers don’t have a setup like that. I move beer around that way too. But mostly just from my conical to a keg. And sometimes from keg to keg. I connect my clean kegs to a blow off tube and then a spunding valve at the end, so I get all me kegs purged as much as possible and can control the pressure. The purpose of the video was get people more aware of how often (many) homebrewers expose their beer to oxygent. There is a lot of quality to gain for 80% (from my experience) of all homebrewers if they were more aware of oxygent

No, the vacuum is too powerful. It will suck in false air

It can just be off gassing especially if the temp is not 100% stable. But it's hard to say, when not knowing the cleaning process, brewing process fermentation etc...

@@Beerstories I decided to bottle. FG seemed correct. Bottles are not pressuring as much or as fast as I hoped. I increased the temp nearer to the top of the yeasts range. The only thing I did that may not have been a good idea, was to rack to a clean fermenter, too soon. This stalled the fermentation for a day, but it then proceeded to bubble well for a couple days, then the very slow bubbling for over a week. I used 150g of dextrose to bottle a 23l batch, which should have been lots for a dark ale. Could have used 180g perhaps. There is CO2 in the bottle I tested early, but no head at all. Maybe after a week or two it will carbonate. Cheap Cooper's ale so no great loss, but I hope I do not have to open up the bottles to fix them.

Thanks, that sounds cool :) Let me know how it turns out :)

Hi, I fill them to top and put the bung in while it's standing up. And then the wood expands a bit and seals it up. Try just doing that with water and see if that doesn't work. It works for me...

@@Beerstories Im not sure if it eventually swelled and sealed, or whether it emptied to below the level of the bung, But it is not currently not leaking Anyway I contacted Bad Motivator and they were extremely helpful. They have been considering silicone bungs as a potential alternative, and so Christopher pointed me in the direction of some Size #5 bungs that will do the job the next time I come to fill it

Thanks, I’m glad it works 😊

@@Beerstories Me too, but I am surprised as well that this did work. The yeast needs oxygen to get multiplying before fermenting, and yet.... If this occurs again I will try an experiment. Maybe the yeast I added just got used as food for the tired yeast, or maybe it did the fermenting? I could have added a bit of Fermaide O to see if it just needed food for the initial yeast to finish up???

Thank you! Cheers! 😊

Carlsberg might a commercial macro brewery, but they have tributed so much to the brewing industry. Cleaning the first yeast and giving it free to other breweries, inventing the pH scale and teaching others how to use it and many other things, that was essentiel to the brewing industry. They should be respected for their history. But you can still avoid buying their beer 😉

@Beerstories oh yes, no one I know buys their beer and is the lowest rated mainstream lager here. Not even real beer

Yes, they matched the beer to the water 😊

Hi, first of all, welcome back to brewing ;) How the yeast is stored is pretty important, so good call not to use the yeast that has been stuck on the can for probably a long time. Hope it will turn to beer for you ;)

@@Beerstories I hope my bottles do not explode. I have now added priming sugar twice, before realizing that pack of yeast from the Cooper's can had given up the ghost.

Hi, thanks for comment. I don't know these kits and it's to say what has gone wrong, when I don't know every step and how they were done and timing of everything. But you learn something with every brew ;) Hope the beers turn out well now :)

@@Beerstories I am still surprised that adding a tiny bit of quality yeast worked. I may have saved this batch. Thanks for the ideas.

The vacuum is way too powerfull. It will suck in fasle air. A steel tank will can implode by the vacuum created by cooling it down if it is sealed air tight.

@@Beerstories How much pressure is needed to implode a steel tank? I have pulled vacuums in the lab with pumps on tanks and chambers without ever seeing this implosion (will happen with thin wall plastic). It is the only the gas in the head space above the liquid that cases the reduction in pressure. if you reduce the head space above the beer you get very little suck back. If fermentation is over why have an air lock or any opening? I just plug my glass carboy and reduce the temperature without failure.

I saves the changes without the power button 😊 I just double checked right now 😊

Hello I noted that you indeed depressed the power button to ‘ save changes’… You fail to say it. I respectfully declare that Really good, comprehensive step-by-step ‘how to’ videos are quite rare, and this one doesn’t miserably fails…but based on completeness…it does fail a little bit.

When producing a how-to video, one must assume the person seeking help is from “Mars” and is impossibly ignorant and requires full step-by-step from beginning to end

@flyonbyya But you don’t have to push that button 😊 I do it in the video just go out of the menu, but if you don’t push it, it will still save the setting and go out of the menu after 5sec. But I could have been clear on that 😊

The vacuum is too strong. It will even implode a steel tank 😉

@@Beerstories I meant the little plastic cap that comes with the airlock.

That’s true 😊

Maybe a white oak and light roast and more toast 😊 But I would ask Chris from Bad Motivator 😊

Hi, I just open the window 😊 I thought about making a condensor, because it does steam up a bit in there 😊

Hi 😊 Depends on how big the barrel is and if had been used before. The smakler the barrel, the shorter it should be in there, because the surface area is bigger conpared to the volume. Under 60 liters you shouldn’t keep it in there for more than 6 months. If it’s a fresh barrel it should probably be shorter because the flavor is more aggressive.

This is a fresh small barrel - looking for it to add some character but not over take the brew. Thinking 4 to 6 weeks maybe the way to go.

Yes, that sounds about right 😊 How small? Has there been anything in it before or is it new?

New, never used. 1.8 gallon / 6.4 liter. Barreled a German Chocolate Cake imperial stout. Made with Pecan, coco nibs and freshly toasted coconut. Excited to see how it does compared to the regular kegged part.

@toddrupell1989 sounds really good 😊

You’re right, but it doesn’t make a big difference. Splitting the sugar in monosaccharide doesn’t take very long. Maybe around a day faster with dextrose 😊

Cool, now you know the easy way as well 😜

Yes ❤️❤️💪 Although, the oxygent scaveging caps doesn’t really work. I tested it and found no differents ruclips.net/video/KkTkk-Of0Cw/видео.htmlsi=a-1tI5wIL0UhFfHV

I was wondering about that, I believe all bottle caps have some amount of oxygen scavenging capability so it seemed like a marketing gimmick

@Junbav oxygent can pass through all caps actually 😊

Oxygent starts a chain reaction that anti oxygents can’t prevent. They will react with the oxygent in the same way and at the same speed as the molecules in the beer. So at best you will just do half the damage. But remember, you can make good beer anyway. The last 10% of the quality of the beer is these smaler things 😊

You’re welcome 😊

Yes, pressure fermenting really makes a difference. You can control the amount of oxygent getting in contact with the beer much more precise 😊

The berry flavor is probably esters from the yeast caused to by too high fermentation temp

@@Beerstories I'm not sure, it never went above 21 °c. For what it's worth it was a mangrove jacks juicy session ipa kit, i used the 50g citra hops supplied and added 50g of mosaic from my own stash. I thought maybe oxygen was to blame.

Yes :) That's basically how I do it. I let the yeast purge my kegs by conecting them to my fermenter, though :) ruclips.net/video/JJ0y5BzHmwQ/видео.html

I keep mine at room temp, but chemical reactions happens slower at lower temp, so that would work better. The important thing is the pH level is low enough 😃

I might have adjusted the recipe a little. I would go with the brewfather recipe. I think that’s better, but either one is good 😊

Tusind tak 😊

Thanks you so much!

You're doing it the easiest and best way to prevent unnecessary oxygent :)

@@Beerstories I just wondered if adding ascorbic acid to the bottle can affect conditioning by minimising yeast growth? Or is there plenty of yeast already present?

@@lafamillecarrington There is plenty of yeast :)

You’re welcome 😊 This is the easiest way, but not the best way… It takes a little more work and equiptment to do it oxygent free… But to start, this is good 😊

Hi, let the bottle sit at room temp to carbonate for 14 days and then store it cold 😊

@@Beerstories thank you ,I’ve never cold crashed before,I’m also going to do a diacetyl rest for the first time,hopefully these two additional steps for my brew day pay off with some clear beer.

@Pocketpatriot diacetyl rest is very important 😊 Have you seen this video: Everything about yeast and fermentation - Easy Fermentation Guide for Homebrewers ruclips.net/video/2UUBIYxlg5Q/видео.html

@@Beerstories excellent,thank you I shall watch it later

Awsome!!! Let me know how it turns out 😃💪🍻🍻🍻

​@@Beerstories Hi again! I just wanted to let you know about my results. My fermentation ended at about 1.014, so not as dry as yours, I naturally carbonated in keg for two weeks, and it's been in my keezer at about 5 degrees for about three weeks now. It's ended up at about 5.5% ABV and I wasn't sure at first, but after just a few weeks conditioning it has turned into a lovely beer, which I will brew again. It's only my second lager, and my first dark lager, considering that I'm more than happy with the result. Thanks for sharing your recipe and keep up the good work!

That is awsome!! Thanks for the feedback 💪💪

Yes, fermenting under pressure is how it should be done. That’s how the breweries do it 😊