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@@edwardjski Thanks!

​@@brianweekley5700Hey, what's the green feather bit on your table saw? looks very adjustable and functional.

@@James-dv1df I totally agree the bandsaw is ideal for safe ripping, but doesn’t typically provide a glue ready finish and is more susceptible to blade flex. I can’t live without both saws!

@@brianweekley5700 pass on the surface planer \ jointer and your good to go

I first began woodworking with a RAS (in my Jr. High wood shop class). I know I'm in the minority, but I generally prefer ripping on my RAS. In fact, I sold my table saw (mainly because the RAS has a smaller footprint in my small shop).

Sorry, I don’t have plans to share.

@@Yooperal3 Kids these days just don’t seem to be interested in model trains. I’m hoping to dig mine out of a box for my grandson soon.

@brianweekley5700 Unfortunately that's true about today's youth...I'm doing the same with my set as well as my Lego collection! Unfortunately it will probably all be sold 1 day cause they probably won't be interested either. Anyways Big Pine Lumber was a really cool set to play with as a kid!

Block alignment? I just turn the handles and get the threads in the same position on both sides and screw the top to the brackets. Curious as to the need to have quick release?

Glad you were amused! Yes, part of the reason was just to show that it can be done on a RAS (inspired by a discussion I read that box joints was something a RAS couldn’t do, but a TS could). With that said, I once made a large, beautiful bed frame with 3/4” wide box joints using the RAS. That is something you can’t practically do on a TS or Router table (try feeding a 6’ long rail on end with a typical box joint jig). On the RAS, the length is almost unlimited. Sometimes it’s nice having different tools and options for a project.

No doubt the RAS is versatile. My RAS(s) do everything I need. In fact, I even sold my table saw (mainly for space savings). Enjoy your free saw! If you haven’t done so, consider joining the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum. Lots of good tips and information. A great place to ask any any questions you may have.

@brianweekley5700 yea i guess if you could only have 1 out of table saw, radial arm, and miter, the Radial is the most versatile of the 3. Who wudda thunk

Thanks. Much appreciated!

Thanks. Even though you have a Sears saw, I highly suggest joining the "DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum". In the FAQs section, there is some info about making your own anti-kickback pawls. However, you can often find them sold on eBay if you keep your eyes open for them.

Good to hear!

Thank you! 😊

@@MichaelJohnson-tf8so Thanks. Looks like you’re a cyclist too. Ride on!

@@coppulor6500 Note that I don’t claim to completely eliminate snipe. A lot of my snipe was caused by flex in the table and the metal under the cutter head. My new, long, rigid table eliminated the snipe caused by that symptom. My planer has a pretty good locking cutter head. However, a lot of people have snipe caused by the lack of a locking mechanism or movement in the cutter head. The new table would not help that problem. So, my snipe was drastically reduced, but your mileage may vary! Good luck!

Not only did you claim it would eliminate snipe but I remember specifically you calling me and guaranteeing that it would eliminate snipe or else you would give me $5,000. 😁 I realize it doesn't eliminate it but it will certainly help! But what do you think of the four roller idea? Seems logical no? Also, thank you for the video and information and reply 👍🏻👍🏻

@ LOL! Are you talking something like two rollers on each side of the table? My only concern would be lining all the rollers up. It only takes a few thousandths off to cause snipe. The nice thing about my extra long, flat table is that it also helps me feed the wood level and keep it from tipping at the beginning and end of the cut (which also causes snipe). Experiment and see what you get. Good luck.

@@coppulor6500 Thanks. The “reach around” probably looks worse than it was, but certainly wasn’t necessary. Thanks for calling me out on it!

Thank you. I appreciate the comment. I have many more videos planned, but finding the time to make them is always a challenge. Glad you appreciated it!

Thanks. Glad you found it useful.

Thank you. Yes, a small blade has advantages. Stay safe.

Glad it was helpful!

It was many years ago, but I found some industrial feet on eBay. A cheaper method is to simply drill holes, install some threaded inserts, and use bolts as feet. They don’t need to be huge as they just serve for leveling and support.

@ Ok. That’s a good idea. Thank you for this and for this awesome video. I just bought some MDF and I’m going to build this soon!

@@toddh4617 Thanks. Note that I don’t claim this eliminates all snipe-especially any caused by any unwanted movement of the cutter head. On my planer, I have a good lock on the cutter head, but the table was flexing and causing significant snipe. My new, longer, and stiffer table significantly reduced snipe on my machine. It is really nice having a longer table (keeps boards from tipping and useful for sleds. However, your mileage may vary! Good luck and let me know how it works out for you.

@@brianweekley5700 Oh man, I’m not going to blame you for any snipe, you made a super helpful video that 693,000 people have benefited from! I appreciate everything and hope you make some more great videos! Thank you!

Thanks, much appreciated! The cutout below the fence ensures you can push the two halves together so they touch the blade. If the cutout wasn’t there, you’d find as the kerf gets worn, you no longer be able to push them together to get the zero clearance. In addition, if you need to, you can push the halves together to cut another fresh kerf. Hope that makes sense. BTW, instead of the keyhole bit I used in this video, I now install a vertical spline (rip about 1/4” off the bottom of the fence, cut a slot in the edge to fit the bar, then glue the 1/4” piece back on). A vertical spline is less prone to bend than the horizontal one I used in this video.

Ah yes, makes perfect sense. Funny, I wasn't thinking about the kerf getting worn over time (the primary point of your invention!) as much as being able to change the width of the kerf. Thanks for the tip on the new method with vertical spline. That does sound more robust, but I also like the elegance of the first method. I wonder if a steel spline with keyhole bit might be stiff enough. Anyway, thank you for your kind reply!

The purpose of the spline is just to hold the two halves of fence in place as you slide them together (so they don’t fall down into the base). As long as you have a tight fit, aluminum is fine. However, the keyhole bit does remove a lot more material leaving you with a slot. You may find that the lip remaining holding the spline may break off over time (it’s more fragile). The newer method is more robust since the spline is completely contained once you glue the bottom back on. You could just attach a strip o wood under the table to hold the fence too (kind of a shelf for it to sit on). You’ll figure it out and it’s easy to make more! Regardless how you make it, I think you’ll like having an adjustable fence. Good luck!

I see, it's the thin walls of that open channel from key hole bit. The new method with glued-back strip does have its advantages then. Thanks for the reply; I look forward to making this!

Have fun!

Thanks for the comment. The SawStop is definitely a nice tool. I sold my old Craftsman table saw-mainly to gain space. Although there are times I miss having a table saw, I’ve found that I can do everything I need with my RAS.

Thanks! I appreciate the comment.

@@JayChuckOnFire Thanks. It’s important not to rip without the anti-kickback pawl. I highly suggest joining the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum. Lots of good people who can offer advice or answer questions about your saw. In the FAQs section, there is guidance on making your own pawl if you can’t find a replacement. Unfortunately, most used saws are missing them.

Thanks for the comment. "Snipe" simply refers to a non-uniform cut where the blade meets the wood. Yes, the location of the snipe occurs on the top side of the wood. However, as shown in my video, my planer had significant flex in the table, which exacerbates the snipe (changes the distance between the blade and the wood). The new, rigid table that I made eliminated that error. Obviously, it doesn't eliminate any snipe that may occur due to flex of the cutterhead assembly (above the wood), but it did significantly reduced the snipe cause by movement of the flimsy table (below the wood).

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comment.

@@canuckjim1941 Thanks. Glad you found it useful.

Glad you enjoyed it

Thank you. Much appreciated!

@@marky0140 Mishaps on any power tool can be scary! Thanks for the comment.

They are great machines. They don’t make many tools these days with that machining and quality.

Thanks. I highly suggest buying a copy of the book “How to Master the Radial Arm Saw” by Wally Kunkel. He includes much info about molding and shaping with the RAS. You can find old Delta/Rockwell molding heads and profiles that work very well.

Thanks for the comment. The second season I painted the top sides for better sun protection, but leave the under sides varnished for appearance.

Thank you. Hope you find them useful.

LOL! Well, glad you eventually watched and appreciated the full content. I appreciate the comment and hope it was useful. Thanks!

Glad it was helpful!

Great job again !!!

Thanks!

Thanks. It’s 12x48 inches.

Thank you! Glad you found some of my videos useful. Hope your edge-jointing works well.

Thanks. I’ve never had the jig saw attachment, but it seemed more of a novelty rather than a useful accessory. However, I have found the sanding disc attachment to be very useful.

Thanks. Once winter comes and I begin taking wood to burn, I just take pieces from the top and keep the rest covered with a tarp.

@@brianweekley5700 thanks! I’m going for it!😊

Thank you. Yes, a great application for the RAS!

Thanks for the comment. You did see this was a workshop? Yes, very beefy for a small shed, but not 8x8s (I think 6x6s)? However, the purpose of this design was to give each student the opportunity to cut each piece and joinery needed (e.g., a post, a rafter, a joist, a brace, a rafter seat in the plate, a tenon on a tie beam, etc…). It really was a great workshop and well done.

Thanks. I've never seen splines left proud, but give it a try!

Great question. The push board is really just pushing the last few inches past the blade. Not unlike using a push stick to push a board past the blade on a table saw. As long as the board is cut square on the end, the push board mates with it and pushes it straight through without problem (better than just a push stick). In addition, I often use “board buddies” when ripping (you can see them in some of the examples shown in this video). These one directional wheels are angled and also serve to pull the board towards the fence.

Thank you. I forgot about the board buddies, but on other active RAS demonstrators I’ve watched, they use a similar push board like yours, or occasionally, a push board from the back, then a push stick on the side, and that also prompted me to wonder why a push board didn’t have an “extension” stub on the outer length rear portion of the rear of a workpiece. It just seemed to me, having that lateral pressure pushing the workpiece towards the fence was something one always tried to ensure.🤔 The one downside to my corner tab concept could be the limits of whatever pushboard width one built, in relation to the workpiece, so then a complication then is whatever arm that presses against the board length, would need to not interfere with the cut path and blade guard. I’m curious to experiment with this idea, even if it turns out not to work in real life. It’s just a thought I have after watching several ripping cuts on the RAS.🤔🤷🏼‍♂️

I will strongly consider making or buying a board buddy of some type anyway, they seem a smart accessory to use routinely.👍🏻

@@leohorishny9561 They do come in handy.

@@leohorishny9561 If you invent something better, please share.

LOL! I’m old, but not that old.

Don’t get me wrong, I like to use a table saw too. Just intended to show the RAS works just as well to rip.

Thank you. I appreciate your comment and support for my content. Glad you found the video useful.

Glad you like it!