LOL! Thanks. For many, many years I never had a router table. However, once I made one, I was amazed how often I now use it. It's definitely a very useful tool for any woodworker!
Hey Brian, Your videos are good and fun to watch ! STOP ! , PLEASE STOP ! Every time I watch another video, I feel myself spending more money and I'm going to run out of floor space. Great Job ! 🤔
I really like the idea of burrying the steel flatbar into the lamination. Seems like an obvious and easy method, but never thought of it. I just hope I don't forget about it later and hit it with a saw when I invariably reuse the piece for something else. Never used a radial arm saw before, but looks super useful. Maybe I'll find one to restore in the future. Great build and thanks for the ideas, hombre. Cheers hombre.
Thanks. Often called a "Mr. Sawdust" table, this technique is used to build very flat tables for radial arm saws. If you search for "Mr. Sawdust table", you'll find more information about it.
Hi there, what fantastic video. You have great skill. Im new to woodworking but look forward to adapting my B&D workmate. Thanks for the education. Hopefully i can pick up the parts you have used here in Scotland uk. Cheers Ewan. 👏👍😀
looks amazing! I just found one of these workmates buried in the back of my folk's garage while helping them move, and it's in quite a state lol. I'd have a lot of things to do before I could try and get something like this router table set up on it, but it's very inspiring to see what you've done.
Brilliant! what a great way to utilize a B&D Workmate. Have had a Workmate for years and never thought of using it like this. Also commend you for using a RAS. so many old ones still out there not being utilized.
Thank you! I actually got rid of my full size router table since this one is portable and takes up less space. I love my RAS's--they are probably my favorite tools to use.
I’m not sure how I have missed your videos, i guess too many birthdays, . Seeing your DeWalt Radial Arm saw brought back so many fond memories. I remember when my father bought a new one in 1955. I wish someday to find one just like it….Dad sold his when we moved from Indiana to California in 1959. I retired and building my workshop in a converted two car garage. I just bought a used workmate to convert it like yours…I really enjoy your video a wealth of wonderful ideas, Thank you ever so much….
Thanks so much-glad you enjoyed the video! If you check out my other videos, you'll see the DeWalt RAS is one of my favorite tools. You can still find them fairly easily since so few people use them anymore. Good luck with your workshop.
Thanks. That project took a surprisingly long time to make and edit! I started it in the summer (where you see bare feet), but I didn't have time to get back and finish this project until I was bundled up with coat and hat! LOL!
I don't know how I missed this when it first came out, i do love all your builds. It looks like your router table is a mix of The New Yankee Workshop and a Mr. Sawdust table. Great men that inspired lots of ideas and excellent teaching, you are following right along on those same trails. Looking forward to your next video and i usually re watch your older ones to work on the build of my dewalt RAS builds in progress.
That radial arm saw is pretty amazing. I wonder when DeWalt switched from green to yellow. This is a great project. I think I'll put some metal D rings on one so I can hang it and the workmate on the wall on some horizontal rods.
Thanks for the comment. According to the internet, DeWalt was sold to Black and Decker around 1960. B&D kept the DeWalt name and they continued to manufacture radial arm saws until 1990 (however, they decreased quality for profit). The DeWalt name adopted the black and yellow color scheme in the 1990s as they introduced new professional product lines.
@@brianweekley5700 Thanks for looking that up for me! I kind of got out of the habit of perusing the history sites. Time to get back to that. It is good to be motivated to go somewhere besides RUclips on the internet.
Amazing Brian! I've just received my Jessum Router-R-Lift II. I'm installing it in the right outfeed table on my 7790. Thanks for sharing this. Lots of good ideas.
Brian, as usual a great job! Video skills, logical progression, precision and accuracy...and useful! I am still in awe of your fined turned RAS. And don't you know you cannot do a rip cut on that piece of equipment...so they say!
Brian, at minute 10 you show cutting the slots in the base of the fence with which to slide it back and forth along the table behind the router blade. In minute 13:17 you show the back of the fence with the screw handles to hold the fence to the table top. What I cannot find is where / how you placed the screws through the table top with which to tighten the fence to the table. Where did you place them and are they intended to be removeable or fixed so that fence can slide back and forth but likely never removed entirely. The fence and table top become essentially one piece. Could you comment or show us another image of where and how the screws are placed through the table top? Thanks.
I just have carriage bolts through the table. The carriage bolts are countersunk slightly so the table sits flat on the workmate. The fence slots fit over the carriage bolts and secured with knobs.
Phenomenal video as usual. I can't wait to get started making one. The bonus is to that you use the Workmate as the foundation. Perhaps one of the most versatile tools ever made. Keep up the great work. You're my favorite video content creator by far.
Another Masterpiece! The router table and the video. You are so talented! The quality of both are amazing. Please keep doing what you do. Your projects and videos are such a pleasure to watch.
Thank you. The stock rollers are a little pricey, but they work great. They hold the work down, only turn in one direction, and are angled so the wood tracks toward the fence.
Definitely looks solid! While I'm a fan on the Mr Sawdust table, I'm thinking that it is a bit overkill for this application. The point of the steel bars was to support the tabletop between the mounting points of the radial arm saw, but that whole span is already supported by the work mate table.
Thanks. Actually, the purpose of the steel bars in the Mr. Sawdust is to maintain a perfectly flat table. The bars epoxied in the grooves is what maintains a rigid structure that keep the table from twisting or warping over time. Making a flat work table was my primary goal with the bars. Besides, a single layer of plywood is not really thick enough to inset the router mechanism and secure the fence.
nice job . good idea adding the tempoary bits of wood to help clean the inside opening . which model of plunge router are you using jessem ? im assuming na from your accent
Great! I have a $110 Workmate. All I need now is the $1000-worth of lathe, radial saw, plunge router, table saw, etc. and then I can get right on this project! 🤣
The RAS is an MBF model, but equipped with a larger motor. I have separate videos about my RAS and the micro adjuster (as well as many other RAS related videos) that you may find interesting.
Nice build. Can I ask how much it weighs, please? I really liked the idea but now I'm thinking because of the weight maybe we should install a router permanently between the rails of the table saw.
Thanks. The table weighs 22 lbs and the fence weighs 14 lbs. It's definitely hefty. Mounting a router in the wing of a table saw is a popular choice, but my table saw is too small to do that. Since I have more than one Workmate, I'll probably leave one setup as a router table. One advantage of the Workmate approach is that it easily folds up so you have a portable router table if you ever need to take it to another location or worksite.
I like the modular add-on aspect of yours. I don't want to use our workmate continuously as a router table. It is too useful for other things! But I think we are going to inherit a second workmate. Both are oldies but goodies. I just am concerned about the weight... Do you really think a router table needs to be this sturdy and flat?
@R Wind Even if I built a router wing for a table saw, I'd still make it two layers thick. Once you cut the inset for the plate/lift, you wouldn't have much meat left if using a single sheet of plywood. You also wouldn't want the weight of the router bowing the table. In general, I think table flatness is important for any power tool used for cutting/routing/shaping, etc. That's why quality tools typically have flat, machine-ground, cast iron surfaces. Overall, this stills weighs less than a typical, dedicated router table.
@@brianweekley5700 thank you for the explanation that makes sense. We are currently using a small Craftsman steel table for the router. The top is way too small, lol. We have it bolted to the top of the Work Mate. The only good thing I can say about it is that it is light weight and doesn't flex!
A fixed, linear fence allows for a slight gap between the workpiece and the outfeed side of the fence as the workpiece is processed through its route path. The gap is the thickness of the material removed by the router bit which can eventually result in snipe imperfections somewhere in the workpiece. How could an adjustable outfeed fence side be designed to pickup the gap and still accommodate the dust collection?
If I understand, you’re comparing the router fence to the fence on something like a jointer where the outfeed side sticks out further to account for the amount removed? I think that would rarely apply with routers since I can’t think of any router profiles where I would remove the entire edge. There’s usually a small surface remaining that will still contact the fence on the outfeed side. For bits with bearings, the fence doesn’t really matter (fence is set inline with the bearing). Otherwise, I don’t have a good suggestion on how to easily adjust the outfeed fence.
@@brianweekley5700 Yes, similar to the function of a jointer bed but on the router fence. I built an adjustable outfeed fence for my router table student build project many, many years ago. It was part of that required project. It does not accommodate dust collection which I have always found problematic. I wish RUclips allowed picture uploads, I would show it. I have used it many times for edge jointing mostly, but I have found many additional beneficial uses for it. It significantly uncomplicates, facilitates and expedites many work flow tasks, (thin strip solid wood edge production for example...). I have scratched my head many, many times trying to think of a way to rebuild the router fence with a dust collection port and maintain the offset adjustment feature. The slide opening feature of your fence with a full height tapered ways design to create the offset is very much what I have been thinking of.
I couldn’t tell you how much this project cost-didn’t keep track. The router lift is defined the most expensive and important part of this project. However, probably less and better quality than most decent router tables out there. I enjoy making things, so tools are an investment to me.
you cheated you used a table saw! with a cross cut sled no less! I'm shocked! I'll never watch another video you do! I'm Joking! I didn't know you even owned a table saw Nice build. I have the same lift router and stock guides I went a differnt route I found a nearly new fish tank stand in a dumpster nothing wrong with it at all I took the top off and put in on the bottom and the bottom bars to the top this gave me a 3'x4' apx stand I had some commercial 7 ply plywood used for retail shelves that were set out as trash the is 3 ply plywood mdf 3 play plywood mdf 7 times its 1.5" thick I bought the lift and the template from Jessem cut my hole out on first try it didn't want to fit so I put the template back on and ran it a second time this was just enough to fit perfectly. under the router I built a box for dust collection out of 1/4" luan installed a 120 volt plug and plastic box ran the cord for this box out the bottom and bottom of the box on the back I put a dust collection port for a vacume the top dosn't need one all the dust in pulled down past the motor I believe the motor blows air out the bottom now pointing up so its not going to fill with dust. This stays pretty clean and around the router table. I also made the fence from an mdf bed side rails adding L top track for the router's guide rollers this gives me a way to use the stock guides and add adjustable stops. on the fence slides i used carriage bolts, but I like the system you used a lot better. I cut the slots using my craftsmen over arm router table. After I was done with this i realized I needed a dc type router with speed control so i bought a bosch 1617 from CPO outlet it was a reconditioned router it fit perfectly in the same lift now I have speed control for larger bits. somthing I didn't know I needed. combination
A few seconds into this video and I knew it was just a vanity project which would be ludicrously expensive and requiring skills that a lot of amateur woodworkers won’t have. In other words pointless unless you are just curious rather than someone looking for a realistic router table solution.
Wow. For woodworkers who make things with a router table, they should easily have the skills to make a router table! I use this router table frequently and it’s less expensive and just as good as one you can buy.
Brilliant the RollsRoyce of diy router tables
Thanks-much appreciated!
A great piece. I can't help but find it ironic that there's so much router work to make a router table. 😁
LOL! Thanks. For many, many years I never had a router table. However, once I made one, I was amazed how often I now use it. It's definitely a very useful tool for any woodworker!
Hey Brian, Your videos are good and fun to watch ! STOP ! , PLEASE STOP ! Every time I watch another video, I feel myself spending more money and I'm going to run out of floor space. Great Job ! 🤔
LOL! Thanks, I appreciate that. Haven’t posted a video in awhile, but hope to get some more out!
I really like the idea of burrying the steel flatbar into the lamination. Seems like an obvious and easy method, but never thought of it. I just hope I don't forget about it later and hit it with a saw when I invariably reuse the piece for something else.
Never used a radial arm saw before, but looks super useful. Maybe I'll find one to restore in the future.
Great build and thanks for the ideas, hombre. Cheers hombre.
Thanks. Often called a "Mr. Sawdust" table, this technique is used to build very flat tables for radial arm saws. If you search for "Mr. Sawdust table", you'll find more information about it.
The MRA in action! Good job Brian! Excellent project again.
Thanks-much appreciated! MRA? Do you mean the RAS?
@@brianweekley5700 Micro Rip Adjuster to fit the table grooves for the metal flat bar.
@@jeanphilippepoirier6130 LOL! Got it. Thanks!
@@brianweekley5700 I want to exchange my metal saw horses for a Workmate now! 🤣🤣
Hi there, what fantastic video. You have great skill. Im new to woodworking but look forward to adapting my B&D workmate. Thanks for the education. Hopefully i can pick up the parts you have used here in Scotland uk. Cheers Ewan. 👏👍😀
Thanks! Good luck with your Workmate and woodworking!
looks amazing! I just found one of these workmates buried in the back of my folk's garage while helping them move, and it's in quite a state lol. I'd have a lot of things to do before I could try and get something like this router table set up on it, but it's very inspiring to see what you've done.
The Workmate is a great tool. Congrats on finding one-worth putting to use.
Brilliant! what a great way to utilize a B&D Workmate. Have had a Workmate for years and never thought of using it like this. Also commend you for using a RAS. so many old ones still out there not being utilized.
Thank you! I actually got rid of my full size router table since this one is portable and takes up less space. I love my RAS's--they are probably my favorite tools to use.
I’m not sure how I have missed your videos, i guess too many birthdays, . Seeing your DeWalt Radial Arm saw brought back so many fond memories. I remember when my father bought a new one in 1955. I wish someday to find one just like it….Dad sold his when we moved from Indiana to California in 1959. I retired and building my workshop in a converted two car garage. I just bought a used workmate to convert it like yours…I really enjoy your video a wealth of wonderful ideas, Thank you ever so much….
Thanks so much-glad you enjoyed the video! If you check out my other videos, you'll see the DeWalt RAS is one of my favorite tools. You can still find them fairly easily since so few people use them anymore. Good luck with your workshop.
Wow, it looks like you've got it all figured out!. And I'm happy to see a DeWalt RAS & lathe in use too.
Thanks!
Excellent video. Very informative, educational and interesting.
Thank you. Glad you found the video useful.
Excellent video and process. Thank you for sharing and inspiring.
Thank you. I appreciate the comment.
Fantastic. Made it really easy to follow
Thank you. Hope it’s helpful.
Nice work Brian.
Thanks 👍
Good job, Brian! Thanks for taking the time to make the video.
Thanks. That project took a surprisingly long time to make and edit! I started it in the summer (where you see bare feet), but I didn't have time to get back and finish this project until I was bundled up with coat and hat! LOL!
I don't know how I missed this when it first came out, i do love all your builds. It looks like your router table is a mix of The New Yankee Workshop and a Mr. Sawdust table. Great men that inspired lots of ideas and excellent teaching, you are following right along on those same trails. Looking forward to your next video and i usually re watch your older ones to work on the build of my dewalt RAS builds in progress.
Thanks for the compliment! I hope to make some more videos in the future, but time is limited!
I love your antique radial arm saw . For many years I wanted one of your vintage or the other choice was the Delta turret style.
Thanks. It’s my favorite tool to use!
Lovely work. Thank you.
Thank you!
That radial arm saw is pretty amazing. I wonder when DeWalt switched from green to yellow.
This is a great project. I think I'll put some metal D rings on one so I can hang it and the workmate on the wall on some horizontal rods.
Thanks for the comment. According to the internet, DeWalt was sold to Black and Decker around 1960. B&D kept the DeWalt name and they continued to manufacture radial arm saws until 1990 (however, they decreased quality for profit). The DeWalt name adopted the black and yellow color scheme in the 1990s as they introduced new professional product lines.
@@brianweekley5700 Thanks for looking that up for me! I kind of got out of the habit of perusing the history sites. Time to get back to that. It is good to be motivated to go somewhere besides RUclips on the internet.
Masterful craftsmanship! Not for the faint of heart though. Signed Heart, Faint O.
Thanks!
Amazing Brian! I've just received my Jessum Router-R-Lift II. I'm installing it in the right outfeed table on my 7790. Thanks for sharing this. Lots of good ideas.
Thank you. Looking forward to see how it works out in your RAS extension table.
Brian, as usual a great job! Video skills, logical progression, precision and accuracy...and useful! I am still in awe of your fined turned RAS. And don't you know you cannot do a rip cut on that piece of equipment...so they say!
Thank you very much! "They" do say you can't rip on a RAS, don't they? LOL!
Funny, the tool is only as good as the person using it...
Brian, at minute 10 you show cutting the slots in the base of the fence with which to slide it back and forth along the table behind the router blade. In minute 13:17 you show the back of the fence with the screw handles to hold the fence to the table top. What I cannot find is where / how you placed the screws through the table top with which to tighten the fence to the table. Where did you place them and are they intended to be removeable or fixed so that fence can slide back and forth but likely never removed entirely. The fence and table top become essentially one piece. Could you comment or show us another image of where and how the screws are placed through the table top? Thanks.
I just have carriage bolts through the table. The carriage bolts are countersunk slightly so the table sits flat on the workmate. The fence slots fit over the carriage bolts and secured with knobs.
@@brianweekley5700 Thank you. Helpful!
Phenomenal video as usual. I can't wait to get started making one. The bonus is to that you use the Workmate as the foundation. Perhaps one of the most versatile tools ever made. Keep up the great work. You're my favorite video content creator by far.
Thank you! Both a Workmate and router table are indispensable tools!
It's an excellent idea, I have a B/D workmate 550 and I don't use it, I'm going to start this modification, thanks for your good ideas.-
Thanks. It works very well as a router table!
Thank you, great how to.
Glad it was helpful!
Another Masterpiece! The router table and the video. You are so talented! The quality of both are amazing. Please keep doing what you do. Your projects and videos are such a pleasure to watch.
Thank you, Leo!
That was a brilliant explanation and result. Thanks.
Thanks--much appreciated!
Another fine video. Good idea. The hold down rollers look a great idea.
Thank you. The stock rollers are a little pricey, but they work great. They hold the work down, only turn in one direction, and are angled so the wood tracks toward the fence.
Definitely looks solid! While I'm a fan on the Mr Sawdust table, I'm thinking that it is a bit overkill for this application. The point of the steel bars was to support the tabletop between the mounting points of the radial arm saw, but that whole span is already supported by the work mate table.
Thanks. Actually, the purpose of the steel bars in the Mr. Sawdust is to maintain a perfectly flat table. The bars epoxied in the grooves is what maintains a rigid structure that keep the table from twisting or warping over time. Making a flat work table was my primary goal with the bars. Besides, a single layer of plywood is not really thick enough to inset the router mechanism and secure the fence.
I,am purchasing my first workmate,I can’t believe all the mods you can do with this thing
The older ones are better built. Many models over the years. They are handy!
Like I said on another video I will be doing that when I have cleaned my WM626. Thank You.
It’s a useful accessory for the Workmate!
That's a very nice and practical router table. Nice work.👍🏻
Thank you very much!
Lovely job , well done 👍👍👍👍
Thank you!
Just found your channel and I love it! Why’d you quit RUclips? No new videos in a year.
Thanks. Haven’t quit, just very busy this past year. However, I have many planned-stay tuned!
@@brianweekley5700 Awesome! I look forward to watching them! Thanks for responding 😊
Excellent video, excellent project. Thank you
Thank you. I appreciate the comment.
Brilliant. Where were you in the 80's?
LOL!
Another great video, thanks for taking the time to share your superb workmanship with all of us.
Thank you-that's kind of you to say!
nice job . good idea adding the tempoary bits of wood to help clean the inside opening . which model of plunge router are you using jessem ? im assuming na from your accent
Thanks. My router is called the Craftsman Professional, but I don't think its still available. There are many quality plunge routers to choose from.
Outstanding video and demonstration of your many skills!
Thanks, Avi!
That’s really awesome. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you!
What a well done video. Thank you.
Thank you!
Fantastic build, superb quality you've got me inspired to have a go at one too 👍
New to tour channel so that's a new sub too, well done
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it.
Great! I have a $110 Workmate. All I need now is the $1000-worth of lathe, radial saw, plunge router, table saw, etc. and then I can get right on this project! 🤣
Just making things with tools!
jaw dropping, wow what an amazing idea.
Thanks-much appreciated!
I have been thinking about doing something like this, but Wow! after seeing your build I will have to raise my game several levels. ;-)
Thank you very much!
Nice!
@@martingogela3324 Thanks!
Thank you for your great work 👏
Thank you. Much appreciated!
Hi Brian, What model Dewalt RAS is that and how do you like it compared to other models? Thanks. I like the kerf adjuster thing you made.
The RAS is an MBF model, but equipped with a larger motor. I have separate videos about my RAS and the micro adjuster (as well as many other RAS related videos) that you may find interesting.
Links:
ruclips.net/video/FN8nawcodjA/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/rYe-stxDZds/видео.html
Nice build. Can I ask how much it weighs, please? I really liked the idea but now I'm thinking because of the weight maybe we should install a router permanently between the rails of the table saw.
Thanks. The table weighs 22 lbs and the fence weighs 14 lbs. It's definitely hefty. Mounting a router in the wing of a table saw is a popular choice, but my table saw is too small to do that. Since I have more than one Workmate, I'll probably leave one setup as a router table. One advantage of the Workmate approach is that it easily folds up so you have a portable router table if you ever need to take it to another location or worksite.
I like the modular add-on aspect of yours. I don't want to use our workmate continuously as a router table. It is too useful for other things! But I think we are going to inherit a second workmate. Both are oldies but goodies. I just am concerned about the weight... Do you really think a router table needs to be this sturdy and flat?
@R Wind Even if I built a router wing for a table saw, I'd still make it two layers thick. Once you cut the inset for the plate/lift, you wouldn't have much meat left if using a single sheet of plywood. You also wouldn't want the weight of the router bowing the table. In general, I think table flatness is important for any power tool used for cutting/routing/shaping, etc. That's why quality tools typically have flat, machine-ground, cast iron surfaces. Overall, this stills weighs less than a typical, dedicated router table.
@@brianweekley5700 thank you for the explanation that makes sense.
We are currently using a small Craftsman steel table for the router. The top is way too small, lol. We have it bolted to the top of the Work Mate. The only good thing I can say about it is that it is light weight and doesn't flex!
Great idea, Brian! What kind of plywood did you use?
Thanks. I used poplar plywood for the table-something I often use for table tops. For the fence, I used a higher quality Baltic birch plywood.
Brilliant
Thanks. I enjoyed your vise addition video to your workmate.
A fixed, linear fence allows for a slight gap between the workpiece and the outfeed side of the fence as the workpiece is processed through its route path. The gap is the thickness of the material removed by the router bit which can eventually result in snipe imperfections somewhere in the workpiece. How could an adjustable outfeed fence side be designed to pickup the gap and still accommodate the dust collection?
If I understand, you’re comparing the router fence to the fence on something like a jointer where the outfeed side sticks out further to account for the amount removed? I think that would rarely apply with routers since I can’t think of any router profiles where I would remove the entire edge. There’s usually a small surface remaining that will still contact the fence on the outfeed side. For bits with bearings, the fence doesn’t really matter (fence is set inline with the bearing). Otherwise, I don’t have a good suggestion on how to easily adjust the outfeed fence.
@@brianweekley5700 Yes, similar to the function of a jointer bed but on the router fence. I built an adjustable outfeed fence for my router table student build project many, many years ago. It was part of that required project. It does not accommodate dust collection which I have always found problematic. I wish RUclips allowed picture uploads, I would show it. I have used it many times for edge jointing mostly, but I have found many additional beneficial uses for it. It significantly uncomplicates, facilitates and expedites many work flow tasks, (thin strip solid wood edge production for example...). I have scratched my head many, many times trying to think of a way to rebuild the router fence with a dust collection port and maintain the offset adjustment feature. The slide opening feature of your fence with a full height tapered ways design to create the offset is very much what I have been thinking of.
Genius.
Thank you!
Can I ask you
what are the dimensions of the table
The table is 24 x 36 inches.
How much did this cost? How m7ch yo equip your shop?
I couldn’t tell you how much this project cost-didn’t keep track. The router lift is defined the most expensive and important part of this project. However, probably less and better quality than most decent router tables out there. I enjoy making things, so tools are an investment to me.
Very clever
Thank you. It works great!
Excellent video and barefoot to boot (pun intended).
Thanks. Yes, barefoot in some scenes and coat in others. You can tell this project was made over several months! LOL!
you cheated you used a table saw! with a cross cut sled no less!
I'm shocked! I'll never watch another video you do!
I'm Joking! I didn't know you even owned a table saw Nice build.
I have the same lift router and stock guides I went a differnt route
I found a nearly new fish tank stand in a dumpster
nothing wrong with it at all I took the top off and put in on the bottom and the bottom bars to the top
this gave me a 3'x4' apx stand I had some commercial 7 ply plywood used for retail shelves that were set out as trash
the is 3 ply plywood mdf 3 play plywood mdf 7 times its 1.5" thick I bought the lift and the template from Jessem
cut my hole out on first try it didn't want to fit so I put the template back on and ran it a second time this was just enough to fit perfectly. under the router I built a box for dust collection out of 1/4" luan installed a 120 volt plug and plastic box
ran the cord for this box out the bottom and bottom of the box on the back I put a dust collection port for a vacume
the top dosn't need one all the dust in pulled down past the motor I believe the motor blows air out the bottom now pointing up so its not going to fill with dust. This stays pretty clean and around the router table.
I also made the fence from an mdf bed side rails adding L top track for the router's guide rollers this gives me a way to use the stock guides and add adjustable stops. on the fence slides i used carriage bolts, but I like the system you used a lot better. I cut the slots using my craftsmen over arm router table.
After I was done with this i realized I needed a dc type router with speed control so i bought a bosch 1617 from CPO outlet it was a reconditioned router it fit perfectly in the same lift now I have speed control for larger bits. somthing I didn't know I needed. combination
Thanks. Yes, that cut is one that I couldn't figure out how to do on a RAS! Sounds like an awesome router table you made.
That takes up less space then a dedicated router station.
It does and I'm thinking about getting rid of my old router table. This one is so much nicer!
A few seconds into this video and I knew it was just a vanity project which would be ludicrously expensive and requiring skills that a lot of amateur woodworkers won’t have. In other words pointless unless you are just curious rather than someone looking for a realistic router table solution.
Wow. For woodworkers who make things with a router table, they should easily have the skills to make a router table! I use this router table frequently and it’s less expensive and just as good as one you can buy.