The best video on the radial arm saw hands down, period! Your graphics explaining the force differences between the table saw and the radial arms saw couldn't make it more clear. As someone who has ripped several thousand lineal feet of lumber on a radial arm saw, I know to use the nose of the blade guard to keep the work against the table. You only mentioned one of the carriage positions used for ripping, the "in rip" The other position , the "out rip" requires the work to be fed in from the opposite side. This always causes new users confusion. Simply, you feed into or against the blades' rotation, never with it. All those stories about workpieces shooting across the shop are typically a result of the wrong feed direction. My take is, table saws come with a rip fence, and are better for narrow rips. Radial arms saws are better for cross cuts on long, wider pieces. Each saw can do both, just that each is better at one operation.
Much appreciated-thanks for the comment. Agree, pros and cons with each saw and you have to use the one that you’ve most comfortable with. I do plan a video on in-rip and out-rip.
So glad for this video. I have been telling people for a couple years now that: ripping on a radial arm saw is extremely safe. The reason? Because you never operate a radial arm saw without the the blade guard in place. On a table saw, for typical home hobbyists, it is standard practice to remove the entire blade guard. In fact, crosscutting on a radial arm saw is extremely dangerous, because the blade is being pulled towards your body. When ripping on a radial arm saw, the blade is locked, it cannot climb or accelerate towards your body by accident. Also, the blade guard does not function at all during a crosscut, it provides almost zero safety because the guard must be set high enough to clear the fence in a crosscut. In a radial arm saw rip cut, the blade guard can be set to 0.000" clearance, interference fit, precluding any possibility of accidentally pushing your hand into the blade unless you intentionally slide it under the blade guard after the cut has been made. Something not talked about: the dust collection on a radial arm saw, during a rip cut, is second to none. Few saws have better dust collection for a rip cut. For crosscutting, radial arm saws have zero dust collection, because the blade guard only functions during a rip cut. Radial arm saws excel at rip cutting. Their dust collection and safety is far greater with a rip cut, compared with the typically very dusty, and potentially unsafe "pull" crosscut.
@@starseeddeluxe Thanks for the comment. I don’t agree with the general statement that a RAS is “extremely dangerous” when cross-cutting. If you are using a correct blade (which is probably the most important consideration when operating a RAS), you will not experience an aggressive climb cut. Proper technique including a firm hand on the yoke and never putting your other hand in the path of the blade prevents injury. If you’ve ever used an incorrect blade on a RAS, you may have been startled by a climb cut, but it is more likely to stall the motor or damage your saw than injure the operator. Likewise, ripping on a RAS is not safe because the yoke is locked. It’s because you are feeding the wood against the blade rotation. If you feed the wood from the wrong direction, you would experience a very different effect! In that case, it’s essentially the same as a climb cut, but you don’t have a fence to stop the wood from auto-feeding.
Thank you for sharing your insight. I've owned my vintage DeWalt radial arm saw for 17 years now and I enjoy using it. I took great care in setting it up and always get good results. As with all my power tools, making cuts safely is my number one priority.
I recently acquired a 1967 Craftsman Radial Arm Saw from an older gentlemen. The previous owner good care of it and was more than happy to show me all the features including how to set it up and adjust it properly. He even printed out a copy of the owners manual as he couldn't find his original one, but if he did find it he'd give me a call. As I am building up my small shop I think the saw will be a great versatile piece of equipment. It's difficult to find well explained information out there. I'm very grateful I found your channel as your videos are super informative and helpful in teaching me how to safely operate this unique machine. Thank you!
Thanks! Even though you acquired a Craftsman, I highly encouraged you to join the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum. It’s a great resource for any questions about setup, use, and safety. Enjoy your new saw!
Thank you for taking the time to show the proper way to rip on a RAS. I prefer to use my RAS as my primary saw as well. It's so versatile and takes up less space than a cabinet saw. Thanks again for all you do to keep us educated on these great machines.
I began using my dad’s craftsman radial arm saw when I was 12 yrs old. I had seen a few kickback close calls when he was using it for ripping, so I only ever used it for crosscutting. That was what got me hooked on woodworking tho. 28 yrs later now I have my own craftsman radial arm saw that I will probably only use for cross cutting and with a dado blade. I do have a table saw and I much prefer it for ripping.
I first began woodworking with a RAS (in my Jr. High wood shop class). I know I'm in the minority, but I generally prefer ripping on my RAS. In fact, I sold my table saw (mainly because the RAS has a smaller footprint in my small shop).
Great video! My dad had a complete shop and the only machine he had an accident with was the table saw. I thought the RAS was safer than the table saw back then, but I didn’t have RUclips to set me straight. Thanks for your well thought out presentation.
My board buddies are attached to blocks 2-1/2 inches high that are screwed to the back tables. This allows them to reach over the fence and gives them a good range of adjustment.
Though I don't own a radial arm saw anymore, I still love watching videos showing how versatile and useful they can be. It was great to see you mentioned Mr. Sawdust! Wallace Kunkel was my Grand Uncle (my Grandfather's brother).
that video was great thank you very much I just buy an use it arm saw and I am collecting information about safety for this device. I never work on it before. Thank you very much.
Great vid, I love a ras, had an old wadkin that was a joy to use. I was taught to always use negative rake to stop the grap and the head being thrown at you though.
Thanks. There's more to blade choice than just hook angle. Although a negative hook blade may typically be less aggressive when crosscutting, it isn't always the best (or best cut quality) in all other modes. The Forrest blade that I recommended was developed by arguably the world's foremost radial arm saw expert, Wally Kunkel. It has a +5 angle, but is also a TCG design. The Freud blade that I recommended also has a positive angle, but has been tested extensively by many people over many, many years on the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum. They work exceptionally well in all configurations (crosscut bevel, miter, and rip). I've never experienced any aggressive climb cut with these blades.
@@brianweekley5700 Well worth looking into certainly. They are truly the most versatile of saws. Do yours take dado and shaper heads over there like the Wadkin do?
I was frustrated at the beginning of this video because I wanted you to JUST GET TO THE INFO! But after I fast forwarded to it and watched the rest, I went back and rewatched the entire thing. I give you an A+ for excellent information and the presentation. I take full responsibility for my initial frustration. liked and subscribed
Brian my dad left me a Delta/Rockwell 33-267. I made the mistake of selling that saw. It's now been 3 years and I've finally found a replacement in a 33-285. This one needs a new table top along with calibration. The uncle of the person I bought it from had an 8" blade in the RAS. My first thought before watching your video would be to replace the blade. Now watching your video, I see the advantage of using an 8" blade. It's going to be sometime before I have this saw ready for use. However; this will replace my need for a cross cutting sled. I am saving your video to come back and watch again to ensure I employ the safety features. You showed and mentioned how easy it is for a table saw to launch a board backwards at the operator. While cutting a 2X4, I learned a very valuable lesson. The 2X4 was shot back at me and hit me in the stomach. It knocked the wind out of me. Thankfully I was lucky enough to walk away with only bruising. Since that incident(or accident depending on your point of view), I now either stand off to the left of the cut or in some cases on the side of the table saw. I'm sure someone will tell me the perpendicular side of the table saw is not safe. I appreciate the time and energy you put into making this content. Thank you.
Thank you. Congrats on your new saw. The Delta’s are good saws and I’m sure it will treat you well. The Freud LU83 is available in both 8 and 10” sizes. Obviously, the 10” gives greater cut capacity, but sometimes the 8” comes in handy for hardwoods or ripping. BTW, I have several other videos on my channel regarding making tables, setup/adjustment, and other functions that you may find useful. Be safe.
Hi Brian, excellent video, since it confirms all my own preconceptions. That said, my RAS is my primary workshop saw but I have added a compound sliding mitre saw which now accounts for virtually all my crosscutting work. Ripping and dadoes are the RAS domain.
Good video.I have been using my Craftsman radial arm saw for over 40 years mainly for cross cutting.Usually use a small blade. Cuts down on the noise and makes nice smooth cuts.
100% agree. Thanks. I was dubious about getting on.e a couple of years ago, but the possibilities and configurations make so much sense! I do think it’s safe if operated properly!
Hi 👋, I have had a kick back many many years ago, On a very old table saw, I used to use it to bookmatch pieces of wood when making veneers, The piece of wood was about 6 to 7 inches thick, and approximately 4 foot long, and anywhere between eight and 10 inches wide, a big lump of timber, I had been doing this for many years, Never had a problem, however, one day on a Friday at approximately 3:58 in the afternoon, I looked up at the clock at the end of my workshop wall, I do not remember much else, apart from I could hear a humming noise, wearing noise, the piece of wood that I was cutting raised up off the blade, and dropped back down onto it, the motor was around 10 hp, I believe the blade was around 24 to 26 inches in diameter, Need to say nothing was going to storm the motor, the piece of wood came back and hit me in my right hand side of my stomach, and shot me down the workshop, narrowing, missing a spigot that was sticking out on the side of my bench grinder, where I used to put on my mop, for backing a chisel, this spigot to through my clothes that I was wearing , luckily did not cut me, however, I did spend two days in hospital, And my body turned black, Because of this, I had to sell up all my tools and business, after working for myself for around 14 years, and as for the radial arm, saw, is a excellent piece of kit, As you say, making sure that it is correctly set up, Even to the point where I would remove the blade and the spindle, to make sure that the table was at the correct light at all angles, I would make sure I could slide just a piece of paper underneath it, and adjust the height of the table accordingly, never had a kickback on the radial arm saw when ripping, it is like any other machine, when used and set up correctly, it is very safe, What I find strange , when watching RUclips, people using the surface planer/jointer, Guards, open guard, And pushing the piece of wood across the surface, where if there is a kickback, your hand fingers go straight into the block, I believe this to be one of the most dangerous machines to be used, Your guard should be virtually touching your piece of wood, and no blade visible when using the machine, I have even seen a young lad , using a radio arm saw, where I saw him two or three times cross his hands over to grab the piece of wood from the right hand side and bring it across in front of the saw, On the third or fourth attempt, I managed to grab hold of him and pull him away from the machine, he got very angry, asked me why I done, I said you will lose your hand, and most of your arm, doing what you are doing by crossing your left over to your right in front of the blade, I’m now in my mid 70s retired, still have my fingers, and I still have most of my machinery, And hopefully in the next few months, area that I can use as a workshop, and hoping that I can start to make a Sam Maloof, chair, Something I’ve always fancy doing, is teaching people how to use and make furniture , hope this is an insight to somebody, and can help, stay safe, Phil from the moulin France.
Thank you for your comment. Kickbacks are scary on any machine. I'm so glad that you understand, are aware of the correct safety procedures, and willing to teach others the same. Good luck with your furniture making. A Sam Maloof chair sounds life a fantastic project!
Thanks for the info. I just got an old dewalt radial arm saw. I was unsure how to properly use it at first but I’m pretty confident now. It came without the anti kickback attachment so now I know I need to get one.
@@JayChuckOnFire Thanks. It’s important not to rip without the anti-kickback pawl. I highly suggest joining the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum. Lots of good people who can offer advice or answer questions about your saw. In the FAQs section, there is guidance on making your own pawl if you can’t find a replacement. Unfortunately, most used saws are missing them.
Outstanding presentation, educational value off the charts! You bet I subscribed! One of the best videos in presentation I have recently experienced...very well done!
Just drove 4 hours to get a Delta 12 inch turret saw. After doing a fair amount of research and watching videos like yours, I came to the conclusion that a RAS will also be the heart of my small shop. Thank you very much for the quality content. I like your informative no BS style. Please keep making RAS videos.
Thanks so much! Congrats on your new saw. I highly recommend joining our DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum (even if you have a Delta)! It's a great source for all things RAS and a place to ask any questions about setup and use.
Dear Brian, this is a fantastic video, I own a DeWalt 16" Heavy Duty 3 hp from 1969, [2] 10" from late 60's and today I bought a MB-C 9 " 1/2 hp from 1952.......thank you so much.....Paul in Orlando
You have great videos Brian. I really appreciate the slow pace you take and the many illustrations you add it for clarification and additional instruction. I'll be recommending them to our sales people at the Canadian store I work at for sale training. Unfortunately, as our journeymen workers and serious hobbyist age, we're getting fewer in the pool of new workers who really understand the principles you are teaching. But, these are really useful for helping them understand. It's also a great encouragement for them to feel more interested and comfortable buying the tools and trying them out for themselves. I hope you keep this up for a long as you can. I own a Rockwell Delta Super 990 from the last 50's that has been in the family since new. It's an amazing tool.
I've inherited my father's DeWalt RAS many years ago, (2011) but without the claw attachment. Now I realize my father also received it without an anti-kickback paw. As an unexperienced woodworker I've also never set the blade cover down when ripping and experienced bord lift and kickback and I became very frustrated with the RAS, luckily no injuries while using it the wrong way with just any blade. Thanks for the video! Now I will take it out of its 5 or more years off storage, but I don't think I will be able to find only the claw for the RAS here in South Africa.
We joke that somewhere there is a pile of them because so many people removed them-never to be seen again. If you join the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum, there are some posts in the FAQs section that show how you can make one. Also, if you post on that forum that you are looking for one, somebody might have one for sale.
This is a very good and objective video on the RAS. Twenty years ago I inherited by dad's Craftsman's RAS he purchased in the early 90's to replace the one he bought in the mid-60's. I've kept it for its connection to my dad and usefulness for some projects. I agree that there is a serious learning curve to use it skillfully, accurately, and safely. I bought a friend's rarely used Shopsmith 520 4 years ago. It is also a peace of equipment that has a serious learning curve to skillfully, accurately, and safely use the table saw setup. I never used the table saw setup because I love my Sawstop.
Thanks for the comment. The SawStop is definitely a nice tool. I sold my old Craftsman table saw-mainly to gain space. Although there are times I miss having a table saw, I’ve found that I can do everything I need with my RAS.
Thank you for this very well thought out and presented discussion on rip cuts on my radial arm saw. I understand that ANY power tool, or even tool, can be a danger if used incorrectly. I have been reluctant to rip on my radial arm saw, but after watching your video I see it is easy to build the proper tools to make ripping easy and with care, safe. I have used a table saw for a while until after 68 years the motor failed. It is my fathers saw and I will restore it to good condition. But while lookinng for a motor I found radial arm saws are very low cost saws today and after purchasing one I have found it is very accurate and easy to use as long as I know where the blade and my fingers are. It be my goto saw from now on.
Thanks! I love table saws too. However, I sold my table saw and rely on my two radial arm saws-mainly to save space in my shop. I don’t really miss it since I can do everything with the RAS. It’s different, but just as capable.
Great video! Three things that will help prevent RAS and table saw accidents, and that is a conscience yet respectable fear of their blades, reading instructions and sage advise!
I have the Sears RAS saw my dad purchased new in 1968. Unfortunate the anti kickback is missing and apparently no available, a good project when I get back into the shop. And Thank You for your video.
Thanks. Even though you have a Sears saw, I highly suggest joining the "DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum". In the FAQs section, there is some info about making your own anti-kickback pawls. However, you can often find them sold on eBay if you keep your eyes open for them.
Thanks, this video has been very educational & helpful for me. I've had a Delta radial arm saw, (amongst other woodworking equipment) sitting idle in my basement for about 20 years now. Due to a slowdown at work and a soon anticipated retirement, I've taken an interest in these things. The RAS has got to be the most intimidating machine for me all the while knowing the many functions it's capable of that I want to learn while maintaining possession of my fingers and hands and keeping boards from flying into my gut. I think you've laid out a lot of good advice for safe usage or the RAS.
Thanks! You should definitely setup your RAS, I always suggest people to buy a copy of the book, "How to Master the Radial Arm Saw" by Wally Kunkel (I have no affiliation--just a great reference). It's a must have for setup, use, and safety. Also consider joining the "DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum" (Delta people are welcome too). A great place to answer any questions you may have about your RAS.
Около двадцати лет занимаюсь столярным делом, думаю, большенство профессиональных столяров рано или поздно приходят к радиальным пилам. Она удобна и многогранна! Спасибо за видео, вы подтвердили мои предложения!
@@brianweekley5700 Surely prices will go up should mandatory AIM actually come to pass but, for me personally, I considered only the Sawstop jobsite saws. There are times and places to save money but, IMO, the choice of a power saw is neither. I still do not have a Sawstop. The cabinet saw was a logistic impracticality, getting a 350 lb behemoth into my basement. I am still considering the SS Jobsite Pro and the SS Compact TS. If I procrastinate long enough, it seems impending legislation could make for more choices.
Thanks Brian for the high production quality of the video and the thoughtful content. I like the graphics and historical perspectives as well and learning more technical details about the saw and its proper use. Looking at the beauty of your saw and the various jigs you've assembled is impressive - makes me jealous. I appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge.
Brian - been watching your videos for a while now, Great Job on all of them, this is the best one yet! I have an addiction, we have 3 RAS in the shop. 1 for precision crosscutting, 1 for dados ( rips and crosscut) one for general use. They're great machines and thank you for taking the time to make this video. (I can't imagine the hours you have into it.) Hopefully this will help educate the uninformed population about the versatility of the RAS. I never comment on videos you moved me to do so with this one- keep them coming I appreciate them!!
Thank you. I appreciate the comment. I have many more videos planned, but finding the time to make them is always a challenge. Glad you appreciated it!
I learned how to use a radial arm saw in high school shop class. I now live in Europe and have never seen one here. That is, until recently, I noticed an old dusty Craftsman radial arm saw in the corner of my Dutch boat builder's shop.. Your video encourages me to ask the boat builder if he would like to part with his saw. Thank you for this video.
RAS machines are still common in large workshops across Europe but used almost exclusively for rough crosscutting of stock as a first step in the milling process. Precision crosscutting is almost always done on sliding table saws as they offer higher precision, ease of use and safety. That being said, high quality new RAS machines are still being manufactured by companies like Graule and Maggi.
Here in the US, many home woodworkers still use radial arm saws. In larger, commercial settings, they are still used mainly for crosscutting wood and metal. The Original Saw Company still manufactures quality radial arm saws for commercial use.
Excellent video. Very well done. Clear graphics. There is no way a RAS is more dangerous than a table saw. No way. They make sense, they’re efficient, they’re space-savers, and they’re versatile.
Great video Brian. I have the option to rip with a radial arm saw, a Shopsmith, setup in the table saw configuration, or a band saw. There are some ripping scenarios that I will only use my radial arms saw because it is safer in my opinion. In Wally Kunkel’s book he explains how to use a straight edge clamped to the piece being cut and running that straight edge against the front of the radial arm saw table. The cut off piece falls away from the blade. This requires the operator to stand in front of table, not behind the blade at all. I use this method for ripping off live edges, crooked edges, and long tapered edges.
Thanks! Sometimes, there are multiple tools that work for a given job, but you need to select the one that best works for you. I'm certainly not trying to suggest that the RAS should be selected over other tools. My intent was simply to dispel the rumors that ripping can't be safely done on a RAS. The sled run along the front of the RAS table (also a sled run against the fence) is a great example for ripping a live edge board. However, a sled run along a table saw fence can be used too. I may choose to rip on my bandsaw, table saw, or RAS, depending on the situation.
Thanks for the information! I picked up a ras years ago but when I asked my older carpenter freind about settting it up he said he would not help because he had personally seen too many incidents of ejection when ripping and too many climb cuts while cross cutting. It has sat in the corner under a tarp ever since. Now I know that I have to find some kickback pawls for it if I want to try it out.
if your friend experienced ejections while ripping (or climb cuts cross-cutting), I'd put money down that he was not using an appropriate blade (and probably wasn't using the anti-kickback pawl). The Freud LU83 will work great for all cut modes.
Your friend’s experiences are typical of a few operator-errors, no offense to your friend. Brian’s great videos cover how to correct those errors. In this video he mentioned the importance of blade choice WRT to cut efficiency, but his other vids touch on the tooth rake angles, proper table construction, and proper tuning/alignment, which are all critical to safe use. The great value of the RAS is its amazing adaptability, but those many ways of tweaking the cutting operation necessitate the operator to correctly control/tune the several degrees of freedom, including a perfectly flat and level table. If a single adjustment is not correctly set, then the blade can easily contact the workpiece in a way that compromises the cut quality or even grab the workpiece. Proper tuning yields perfect cuts, just like a cabinet saw.
@@SuperBardleyI completely agree. My friend built houses for 50 years and his experience was a mobile,temporary set up, in which the RAS is the wrong tool for the job. In a shop setting the RAS can be maintained square and level far easier. There is also less temptation to use the wrong or a dull blade.
Agree-the RAS is not viewed as a portable saw. However, back in the day before chops saws/sliding miter saws, the RAS was commonly taken to job sites all over the place on custom trailers (search for radial arm saw on trailers). Granted, they were probably used more for crosscutting then ripping though.
The opposite end of a radial saw motor has the advantage of attaching a chuck to the threaded shaft that I have rigged to work as a boring machine. The saw holds a special place in my shop for many decades. i use it as a dado, as a disk sander just to name a few other uses other than my main cross cut tool.
You know, I’m happy to see this video. One thing I found interesting is you mentioning the saw pushing the material down to the table when ripping. My experience was the board wants to lift from the table. Even when you set the guard as low to the material as possible. Board buddies would help, I considered them. I bought my first table saw maybe a month or two after going through an RAS stint. The table saw is a dream in comparison in my opinion. I’ve parted with my last RAS for now until I can get a larger shop space in the future I’m guessing. Too many other tools to prioritize first. Awesome tools. Be careful. Use a sacrificial push stick to finish the cut ripping on the RAS at all times my friends.
Thanks. Yes, the RAS does tend to lift the board up at the beginning of the cut/front half of the saw blade. However, the portion of the board past the center axis of the blade has no upward force to lift it. Therefore, there’s no need to hold the board down all the way past the blade like a table saw. I rip on table saws too. The purpose of my video was to show it is possible to safely rip on a RAS.
Very interesting and complete video. I developed a fascination for the radial arm saw, a such versatile tool. Almost bought one but a friend of mine , woodworker by trade, put his veto. So, I sticked to the table saw :)
Thank you. I use and appreciate table saws too! I'm not saying not to use one--only trying to show that radial arm saws can be used for ripping (when used correctly).
Brian - Its been a long time since I watched one of your videos and I am really impressed with the both the content and presentation. This is by far the best presentation I've seen on ripping. And it is the most impartial and honest. Roy
First class presentation. I’ve used a RAS for many years and I’m just as nervous using it as my table saw and that’s perfectly fine with me. I now own three old school Dewalts and one Delta, love them all.
I’ve owned my Dewalt RAS for over 30 years and I’ve made just about anything it can make mouldings all types of cuts drilling routing sanding etc. first and foremost as with any power tool in the shop you must fully understand how to operate the equipment, for the RAS there’s plenty of information about using it correctly one of the best books out there there is the book by Mr. Sawdust that fully goes into the operation of the RAS. Just be safe stop when your tired and don’t push the machine beyond it’s capabilities and you’ll be fine ..
I bought my Craftsman RAS many years back and still use it today. Rip and cross cut are what I use it mostly for...Haven't explored the dado stack yet. I have the updated safety features and am very careful whilst the tool is in use. Like a pilot with his check list before take off, I do have a check list I use before I start up the saw. Better to be as safe than sorry is what my dad has taught me. great video to enforce my use of the fantastic saw.
Wow! Very good video! I had no idea about the blades. I am using a Craftsman 10" radial arm saw that I inherited from my Father when he passed. I received a bunch of free 2 X 6 and 2 X 8 fir that I have had to rip down into 2 X 4 size. Just ordered an 8" Freud LU83 blade. Can't wait to try it out ripping! Thanks!
Thank you for another well put together instructional video. I did not know Mr Reiche passed on….RIP sir. His site was absolutely invaluable to me when I began to learn about these great old machines.
good video, i agree with your conclusion. putting matters of safety down to "you have to set it up correctly every single time" is basically asking for people to get injured. not ALL people, but a lot of them.
Thanks. If you’re implying that the radial arm saw needs some sort special setup every time you use it, that’s not what I said. I’m just referring to the initial setup of the saw (when you first put it into service). The initial setup of a RAS takes some work. However, once it is properly setup, it’s no different than using a table saw.
@@brianweekley5700 sure, that's fair, but the saw is designed to be multi purpose, so people will be re-setting it up for different operations. it's an advantage to the RAS but it demands the user do things correctly. the table saw can't do things the RAS can do which is a disadvantage, but at the same time leaves little room for user error in this specific area.
Sorry, I don't get it--both machines are multi-purpose! You perform the same multi-purpose operations on the TS that you do on the RAS. Moving the carriage to set a rip width on RAS is equivalent to moving the fence on a TS. Rotating the arm to set a miter on RAS is equivalent to rotating the miter gauge on TS. Tilting the blade to cut a bevel on a RAS is equivalent to tilting the blade on a TS. You can put a dado blade on the RAS just like you put a dado blade on a TS, etc... You're making it far more complicated then it is. The only real difference between the two machines is that on the RAS you (pull the blade) through the wood (cross-cut, miter, bevel) where on the TS you (push the wood) through the blade. While ripping, both are equivalent operations (pushing the wood through the blade). The machines are different, but perform the same functions.
thank you,very informative,i plan on setting up 2 of my radial arm saws just for ripping.appreciate the mathematical formulas for the gains of using a smaller blade
Always good to watch your videos. I'd say that dust extraction makes ripping on a radial arm saw relatively unpleasant. The dust is certainly less annoying using the RAS outside. In the workshop shop dust extraction on a European style table saw with guard in place is much less dusty. I've never had much success in dust collect on a RAS.
Thank you. Have you watched my video on dust collection? I find dust collection while ripping not too bad. Usually a little burst when the wood first enters the blade, but does pretty well thereafter. It is worse when I use a smaller diameter blade. Is your dust port on the front or the rear of the guard?
Hmm, I have not used a European saw, but can confirm that I get really good dust removal while ripping on my Delta RAS. Just like the Euro tools, one must use some form of dust extraction to actively draw the dust away. Remarkably, when the operator follows the great guidance in this video, by lowering the blade guard to the workpiece and attaching a shop vac to the chip chute on the guard, I seem to get better than 95% water removal. But, if a vac is not used, then the chips pour out of the chip chute and make a big mess, just like any other tool that isn’t utilizing dust control(s).
I have the exact same DeWalt Radial Arm Saw - it is my favorite tool - by far - great video! I also have the Jig Saw attachment but I think it is missing a part or two - but what a clever idea that was.
Thanks. I’ve never had the jig saw attachment, but it seemed more of a novelty rather than a useful accessory. However, I have found the sanding disc attachment to be very useful.
An excellent video. I bought a radial arm saw after watching your videos and several others. I did not want to spend a large amount of money needed for a sliding miter saw that could be calibrated to make really accurate cuts. I was able to buy a 1957 DeWalt and, using the information from your videos and from the Northland Woodworker, tune it up perfectly. I sometimes rip boards with it, but I follow all the recommended safety procedures including adding the board buddies. Speaking just for myself, I would be interested in seeing a few project videos using only the radial arm saw. Please keep your videos coming, I think they are extremely well-made and informative. I also wonder if you'll get a response video from James (Stumpy Nubs) Hamilton. He's made a few RAS videos focused on how they can be misused.
I think stumpy, who I think normally does a good job, missed the boat on that one. He really shows a bias against the RAS. He acted like people don't do equally unsafe things on a table saw. I also noticed He is pushing Harvey Table saws. Wondered if that colored his presentation. Enough said about James. Brian thank you for trying to set the record straight with facts.
Thank you very much. I do have several project videos that were made primarily with the radial arm saw. One of the most recent ones was this... ruclips.net/video/GEy4QOwhwpo/видео.htmlsi=W-QL3G82Pp3H7FyO
@@cho4d Your fear is less valid than good workmanship and care around powertools. Don't be a woos -- get educated and follow best practise. After all, they didn't get to the moon because they were afraid of leaving earth. 🙄
Climb cutting is not an issue if you use the correct blade! One hand on the yoke and one hand on the board. It is not a monster. In all my decades of RAS use, the only time "climb cutting" was ever an issue was when I installed a cheap dado stack that had an aggressive, positive hook angle (+15). I promptly retired that dado stack.
This is awesome. While a radial arm saw may not be as fast as a miter saw sometimes, you can do all a miter saw can do and more! It's really more versatile. I just got a dewalt radial arm saw that looks identical to the one in the video for free and it's awesome!
No doubt the RAS is versatile. My RAS(s) do everything I need. In fact, I even sold my table saw (mainly for space savings). Enjoy your free saw! If you haven’t done so, consider joining the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum. Lots of good tips and information. A great place to ask any any questions you may have.
@brianweekley5700 yea i guess if you could only have 1 out of table saw, radial arm, and miter, the Radial is the most versatile of the 3. Who wudda thunk
I grew up in a home that had the exact same AMF Dewalt Saw shown in this video my experience of Ripping on that Saw was it was always under powered therefore it made the motor overwork so much it would pop the Thermal Protctor and it took the two pair of hands guiding the Sheet Goods to let go of the Board to re set the Breaker
I’m glad i found your channel! I’ve recently added my late father’s Dewalt radial arm saw to my show. I’ll be watching your other videos to ensure that everything is properly aligned. Your newest subscriber has one question: where do you find the “board buddies” that you described & depicted? Thanks for focusing time & attention on these misunderstood, but wonderful saws!
Thanks-glad you found my videos useful. Woodstock “Board Buddies” can be found at Grizzly and other woodworking suppliers. Equivalent “Board Mates” can be found at Peachtree Woodworking. The Yellow (clockwise) version is most useful on the RAS. BTW, I’ll be providing more info about ripping and the use of board buddies in an upcoming video.
Dear teacher, I am very grateful for this video since it has given me the valuable and necessary information before using this machine. The truth is that I believe that this video has already saved someone from having an accident. (I say this for myself) please accept my thanks and a hug from BOLIVIA 🇧🇴
@@brianweekley5700 What part of the world are you in? You really got some great information down to the detail on saw blades. I'm getting ready to buy a bandsaw sharpener. I have a timberking 2020, and am very impressed with it. My property burned down in the Caldor fire, and the trees don't get destroyed, just killed. The lumber is great.
@@homesculptor I'm in New England. So sorry to hear about the fire out there and the damage to your property. Hope you get to take advantage of that bandsaw mill and the wood available. i see a nice, timber frame in your future!
@@brianweekley5700 Funny you should mention that. A neighbor lost about 20 large oaks. I'm going to mill them for a 30x40 barn. I think that would be so cool to have a barn with oak post and beam. I'm lifelong carpenter and love wood. However, I screwed up and bought heavy equipment and make more money doing that than I can carpentry. I did just build a 10x12 legally unpermitted shed way overbuilt and used cedar on the exterior. It took 3 28" diameter 16' logs to make the d.f. framing. And about the same for the cedar exterior. I routed all the cedar for the exterior. What a task that was.
That's a beautiful old dewalt. (Back when dewalt was actually dewalt) my grandfather bought one new I the 60s, a little 10" unit, to help build his home. He ripped with it and had cutter heads to make moldings as well.. he had all his fingers at the end.
Very helpful video. I have a near-complete GWI model and I cannot seem to find a pawl for it since it is less common. The only ones I find are for the smaller and more common versions. The manuals for both seem to indicate that the pawl for the GWI is not the same one that is used for the smaller saw.
Brian, have you found setting your ripping measurement to be more difficult, than on a table saw? What is your solution for getting accurate rip width?
I've always used a steel rule against the fence to set the rip measurement on both RAS and table saws. Both come down to eyeing the teeth on the blade against the graduations on the rule. I never completely trust the scale on any saw!
@@brianweekley5700 I have had many years of use of table saws, various kinds in the contractor range, not accurate furniture work. Recently, I have been able to set up my radial(Delta Super 990) and I really like how it works, and finding I prefer using it for many cuts I’m used to on the table saw. But that one thing of setting the saw to rip accurately has been a challenge. I guess it will get better with the more time I get to spend using it. Enjoy your videos. Thanks
@@simonstuhl4170 BTW, you may find this "micro-adjuster" I made to help set and accurately fine tune the ripping distance... ruclips.net/video/rYe-stxDZds/видео.html
Sadly, I no longer own one, but I used to have an MBF (9") that I used a lot. I regret selling it, but I'm soon getting a Deluxe Power Shop 10" I would easly rip full sheets of plywood on the old MBF, which could rip out to 24". In-feed and out-feed rollers kept the bandy 1/2 panels from mis-behaving. Also, pine boards and fir 2x6. You just have to adjust the entire thing square and true in multiple axis. And, understand that you can't over feed. Some soft woods are still sort of wet inside and you don't want to steam up the moisture, causing the cut to swell shut on the blade. very bad.
Excellent, excellent video. This winter I will cleaning/restoring/setting up a 60 year old Delta/Rockwell 14' saw I purchased last year. The saw is almost complete, missing the anti-kickback pawl and the leaves. I intend to replace them before use. Is there a reason there is no riving knife on the anti-kickback pawl? If you have time to answer.... Blade buddies are a great tip!
Thanks. Unlike a table saw, a RAS doesn’t need a riving knife (for the purpose of preventing the wood from twisting behind the blade and kicking back like it could on a table saw). However, a splitter (for the purpose of keeping reaction wood from closing up and pinching the blade) would be desirable. Although some RAS models may include a splitter, many models do not. Maybe because the kickback pawl is so far behind the blade (on my DeWalts). Personally, I’ve only experienced pinching a handful of times (tends to stall the motor). In that case, stopping the motor, retrieving the board, and feeding through again usually relieves the internal stress and stops the blade pinching.
I feel more comfortable with my RAS than my table saw. I have to check two to three times before I start ripping or cross-cutting. Although I am still careful with my RAS.
While I have eyed a Sawstop cabinet saw and would buy no other at this time, I really feel most at home with my 1976 vintage Sears 10" RAS. I feel I know it well and, yes, I have experienced a few kickbacks over the years. Truth is, I feel more secure ripping with it than with a table saw because I have so much experience with it and so little with a table saw. It seems strange that critics of the RAS complain about blade exposure and seem completely to overlook the totally exposed blade of the TS as they push wood past it without the use of even a push stick, let alone a blade guard! Both saws are potentially dangerous. I see them as being "different." But neither is inherently safer than the other. I did note that no mention was made in the video of a splitter. My saw has a splitter as well as kickback pawls and I use both religiously. I assumed all RAS had splitters? I have not been sophisticated in my choice of saw blades. I have ordered the Freud combo blade you mention. Were it not for the video, I would have gone with a low tooth count "ripping" blade rather than the combo. The tragedy described here is simply mind boggling! Having a child in the line of fire of kickback is unbelievable and no one so clueless has any business operating a power saw!
Thank you. If I ever replaced my table saw, it would surely be one that has AIM technology like the SawStop (really the only one currently available in the US). Interesting that you noticed no discussion on a splitter! I struggled with addressing that in this video. No, most RAS's did not come with splitters. I've only seen one very rare splitter on a large DeWalt saw. I believe some of the Craftsman models did? I've often thought about fabricating a splitter for mine (incorporated with the pawl). On a RAS, its only purpose would be to prevent reaction wood from potentially pinching the blade. A splitter (or riving knife) is much more important on a table saw to prevent the wood from moving into the back of the blade (not critical on a RAS). However, having a splitter on the pawl would also create a lot of alignment issues with the blade to work without a problem. I have had the blade be pinched two or three times where a splitter may have helped. Fortunately, this just slowed or stopped the blade and required me to stop the motor. Excellent point though! I think you'll be happy with the LU83. Let me know how you like it. These two blades are the only ones we recommend on the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum.
@@brianweekley5700 Yes, the splitter I mentioned is on a Sears Craftsman purchased new in 1976. The splitter rides on the same sliding adjustment arm as the kickback pawls and drops into the kerf (or, pedantically, where the kerf WILL be) automatically when the pawls are set. Simple. Whether it has saved me from anything, I cannot say as it's always there.
The RAS or Radial Arm Saw is so misunderstood. In my opinion, it's far superior to that of a table saw. Honestly, wished I had one, they're extremely versatile. No saw is any safer than another. I also feel that a RAS is perfect for making dado's over the TS. I will say if you use a thin kerf blade, make certain you use a stiffener, they do tend to "wobble". Another addition to what the RAS could do, you could remove the head and install a router if you had the proper attachment, again, making the RAS a versatile machine. Any and all accidents are operator error. Heck, I had kick back on my joiner once, messed up my right thumb for a few months, still have mobility issues with that thumb. In addition to what you're saying, "some people shouldn't be around power tools". Thank you for sharing this video. Cheers :)
What a beautiful De Walt saw. I would have paid a lot of money years ago for that beauty. To hard to find one in good condition these days. The people who have them don’t appreciate them and don’t even know how to use them but they want lots of money because “someone” told them it’s gold.
A word about blade size. yes, larger blades reduce motor torque at the tooth. This is why DeWalt made these saws in hp ratings all the way up to 7 hp. If you regularly need to cross cut or rip thicker stock, buy the saw with the hp to drive the blade you need. For a 14” blade, you need 3-5 hp. To drive it with a 3 hp motor, you will want 3 phase power. For a 12” blade you want 2-3 hp. Anything less than 2 hp, stick with 10” or under. And if you decide to mount a dado stack, Drop your blade diameter by 4” for larger saws and by at least 2” for smaller saws. That is, If I want to cut a bunch of rabbets or dados without having to do a dozen passes per board, I will swap my 14” blade for a 10” or 8” diameter dado stack. ( with as many teeth on the side blades as I can find ) If you are running a 12” blade, your dado stack should be no bigger than 8”. But for a half horse saw running an 8” blade, a 6” dado should be fine.
I ripped for many years on my dad’s DeWalt MBF. I was in my early teens when I began using it. Fifty years later I still have all body parts. Proper alignment of EVERY part of the saw is critical. There are many things that can cause the blade to drag on one side of the kerf, leading to mishaps. I had two kickbacks with that saw. Both were my fault. The first flung a narrow, short workpiece…hard! It was too short and it cocked behind the blade. It hit an upright piece of plywood, ricocheted, and landed over 50 feet away in the street. The second was a longer but very narrow rip cut. Again, the piece was too small and light. If I’d had a proper push block as pictured in this video, it wouldn’t have happened. I didn’t realize at the time that the table was probably warped. You can’t align the saw to an imperfect table. I never had a crosscut climb to disaster. When it happened (because I wasn’t in proper control of the carriage), it’d just stall the blade. I now own a 5 HP DeWalt that demands proper attention to its operation. Lastly, I also have a 10 HP DeWalt that someone, sometime let get away. The arm end cap has been brazed back together, so it appears that somebody had a bad day when the carriage and 16” blade burst into his lap. Perhaps in the same incident, the arm broke where it pivots on the column. I doubt that damage was ever noticed until I bought the saw for its long arm, which of course isn’t usable. Oh well. No one will ever know what sort of neglect or abuse led to those accidents, but yes, don’t play games of ignorance or carelessness with the big DeWalts.
Thank You. I recently bought a DeWalt saw and didn't know how to properly set it. I ripped a 14 foot 1 x 8 and made a setup and didn't have any problem, it rip's better than my craftsman 10 " table saw ever did. The cast iron construction is amazing. Is there a router head available for making trim or a spindle that fit's the motor?
Thanks. I highly suggest buying a copy of the book “How to Master the Radial Arm Saw” by Wally Kunkel. He includes much info about molding and shaping with the RAS. You can find old Delta/Rockwell molding heads and profiles that work very well.
Thanks for the comment. To be fair, there are many more table saw users than radial arm saw users. Last year, I had a friend sustain a serious finger injury on a table saw. I do like having my hands further away from the blade while ripping on a RAS.
All things equal (which they aren’t, by far), I like having my digits much further away from the blade with a RAS, especially when ripping. That, and I love the versatility of a RAS vs needing multiple saws. A RAS is the Swiss Army knife of the saw world.
@@VEC7ORlt To be fair, few people are natively great with statistical analysis. Most folks need trained, or at least be given cause to actually engage the problem on a deep and thoughtful level. Like the Navy with its lucky-to-caught survivorship bias, even otherwise intelligent and rational people will fall into the pit trap that is approaching statistical analysis via feelings, gut or otherwise. For anything and everything any given person knows, there was a day they did not. Someone had to take the time, to figure it out themselves (which is where fallacies can really run amok, as it's the sort of mistake you'll keep repeating), or else someone took the time to teach. :P We're all born idiots, in other words, and life is the process of amending that natural fault. Most folks ain't wrong on purpose. So, it's best them a little wiser, a little more clever, a little more enlightened. And, preferably, encouraged, not shamed. Short quips can end up sounding harsher than intended; and people afraid of being wrong tend to be left to repeat unnecessary mistakes. The world has too much of that, already. Just a thought, anyway. ..though I came to say pretty much the same. >.> Don't misread me, though, 'cause I'd far prefer a harsh lesson than being condemned to enduring ignorance. :P
The best video on the radial arm saw hands down, period! Your graphics explaining the force differences between the table saw and the radial arms saw couldn't make it more clear. As someone who has ripped several thousand lineal feet of lumber on a radial arm saw, I know to use the nose of the blade guard to keep the work against the table. You only mentioned one of the carriage positions used for ripping, the "in rip" The other position , the "out rip" requires the work to be fed in from the opposite side. This always causes new users confusion. Simply, you feed into or against the blades' rotation, never with it.
All those stories about workpieces shooting across the shop are typically a result of the wrong feed direction. My take is, table saws come with a rip fence, and are better for narrow rips. Radial arms saws are better for cross cuts on long, wider pieces. Each saw can do both, just that each is better at one operation.
Much appreciated-thanks for the comment. Agree, pros and cons with each saw and you have to use the one that you’ve most comfortable with. I do plan a video on in-rip and out-rip.
So glad for this video.
I have been telling people for a couple years now that: ripping on a radial arm saw is extremely safe. The reason? Because you never operate a radial arm saw without the the blade guard in place. On a table saw, for typical home hobbyists, it is standard practice to remove the entire blade guard.
In fact, crosscutting on a radial arm saw is extremely dangerous, because the blade is being pulled towards your body. When ripping on a radial arm saw, the blade is locked, it cannot climb or accelerate towards your body by accident. Also, the blade guard does not function at all during a crosscut, it provides almost zero safety because the guard must be set high enough to clear the fence in a crosscut.
In a radial arm saw rip cut, the blade guard can be set to 0.000" clearance, interference fit, precluding any possibility of accidentally pushing your hand into the blade unless you intentionally slide it under the blade guard after the cut has been made.
Something not talked about: the dust collection on a radial arm saw, during a rip cut, is second to none. Few saws have better dust collection for a rip cut. For crosscutting, radial arm saws have zero dust collection, because the blade guard only functions during a rip cut.
Radial arm saws excel at rip cutting. Their dust collection and safety is far greater with a rip cut, compared with the typically very dusty, and potentially unsafe "pull" crosscut.
@@starseeddeluxe Thanks for the comment. I don’t agree with the general statement that a RAS is “extremely dangerous” when cross-cutting. If you are using a correct blade (which is probably the most important consideration when operating a RAS), you will not experience an aggressive climb cut. Proper technique including a firm hand on the yoke and never putting your other hand in the path of the blade prevents injury. If you’ve ever used an incorrect blade on a RAS, you may have been startled by a climb cut, but it is more likely to stall the motor or damage your saw than injure the operator.
Likewise, ripping on a RAS is not safe because the yoke is locked. It’s because you are feeding the wood against the blade rotation. If you feed the wood from the wrong direction, you would experience a very different effect! In that case, it’s essentially the same as a climb cut, but you don’t have a fence to stop the wood from auto-feeding.
Thank you for sharing your insight. I've owned my vintage DeWalt radial arm saw for 17 years now and I enjoy using it. I took great care in setting it up and always get good results. As with all my power tools, making cuts safely is my number one priority.
Thank you. I always envision the cut procedure before I make it and try to anticipate what could go wrong.
@@brianweekley5700I do the exact same thing. I rehearse the procedure and take my time to check everything over to minimize risk.
I recently acquired a 1967 Craftsman Radial Arm Saw from an older gentlemen. The previous owner good care of it and was more than happy to show me all the features including how to set it up and adjust it properly. He even printed out a copy of the owners manual as he couldn't find his original one, but if he did find it he'd give me a call. As I am building up my small shop I think the saw will be a great versatile piece of equipment. It's difficult to find well explained information out there. I'm very grateful I found your channel as your videos are super informative and helpful in teaching me how to safely operate this unique machine. Thank you!
Thanks! Even though you acquired a Craftsman, I highly encouraged you to join the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum. It’s a great resource for any questions about setup, use, and safety. Enjoy your new saw!
I hope your shop build is going well.
I’m a 60 year Carpenter …..awesome video! Defending, instructing, and safety precautions for the radial arm saw!
Thank you. The RAS gets a bad rap. Your comment is very much appreciated!
Thank you for taking the time to show the proper way to rip on a RAS. I prefer to use my RAS as my primary saw as well. It's so versatile and takes up less space than a cabinet saw. Thanks again for all you do to keep us educated on these great machines.
Thank you.
I began using my dad’s craftsman radial arm saw when I was 12 yrs old. I had seen a few kickback close calls when he was using it for ripping, so I only ever used it for crosscutting. That was what got me hooked on woodworking tho. 28 yrs later now I have my own craftsman radial arm saw that I will probably only use for cross cutting and with a dado blade. I do have a table saw and I much prefer it for ripping.
I first began woodworking with a RAS (in my Jr. High wood shop class). I know I'm in the minority, but I generally prefer ripping on my RAS. In fact, I sold my table saw (mainly because the RAS has a smaller footprint in my small shop).
Great video! My dad had a complete shop and the only machine he had an accident with was the table saw. I thought the RAS was safer than the table saw back then, but I didn’t have RUclips to set me straight. Thanks for your well thought out presentation.
Thank you. All power tools deserve respect!
Thanks. I am installing the yellow Board Buddies. I think I got enough information of how you use them on your saw by looking at the pictures.
My board buddies are attached to blocks 2-1/2 inches high that are screwed to the back tables. This allows them to reach over the fence and gives them a good range of adjustment.
Though I don't own a radial arm saw anymore, I still love watching videos showing how versatile and useful they can be. It was great to see you mentioned Mr. Sawdust! Wallace Kunkel was my Grand Uncle (my Grandfather's brother).
Thanks. That's neat that you're related!
that video was great thank you very much I just buy an use it arm saw and I am collecting information about safety for this device. I never work on it before. Thank you very much.
Thank you.
Helpful video... also nice to see I'm not the only one using a 60 year old Dewalt RAS.
Thank you. There’s a lot more of us out there then you might think!
Great vid, I love a ras, had an old wadkin that was a joy to use. I was taught to always use negative rake to stop the grap and the head being thrown at you though.
Thanks. There's more to blade choice than just hook angle. Although a negative hook blade may typically be less aggressive when crosscutting, it isn't always the best (or best cut quality) in all other modes. The Forrest blade that I recommended was developed by arguably the world's foremost radial arm saw expert, Wally Kunkel. It has a +5 angle, but is also a TCG design. The Freud blade that I recommended also has a positive angle, but has been tested extensively by many people over many, many years on the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum. They work exceptionally well in all configurations (crosscut bevel, miter, and rip). I've never experienced any aggressive climb cut with these blades.
@@brianweekley5700 Well worth looking into certainly. They are truly the most versatile of saws. Do yours take dado and shaper heads over there like the Wadkin do?
@@mattcable6379 Yes, I routinely use dado and shaper heads on my saws.
I was frustrated at the beginning of this video because I wanted you to JUST GET TO THE INFO! But after I fast forwarded to it and watched the rest, I went back and rewatched the entire thing. I give you an A+ for excellent information and the presentation. I take full responsibility for my initial frustration. liked and subscribed
LOL! Well, glad you eventually watched and appreciated the full content. I appreciate the comment and hope it was useful. Thanks!
Brian my dad left me a Delta/Rockwell 33-267. I made the mistake of selling that saw. It's now been 3 years and I've finally found a replacement in a 33-285. This one needs a new table top along with calibration. The uncle of the person I bought it from had an 8" blade in the RAS. My first thought before watching your video would be to replace the blade. Now watching your video, I see the advantage of using an 8" blade. It's going to be sometime before I have this saw ready for use. However; this will replace my need for a cross cutting sled. I am saving your video to come back and watch again to ensure I employ the safety features. You showed and mentioned how easy it is for a table saw to launch a board backwards at the operator. While cutting a 2X4, I learned a very valuable lesson. The 2X4 was shot back at me and hit me in the stomach. It knocked the wind out of me. Thankfully I was lucky enough to walk away with only bruising. Since that incident(or accident depending on your point of view), I now either stand off to the left of the cut or in some cases on the side of the table saw. I'm sure someone will tell me the perpendicular side of the table saw is not safe. I appreciate the time and energy you put into making this content. Thank you.
Thank you. Congrats on your new saw. The Delta’s are good saws and I’m sure it will treat you well. The Freud LU83 is available in both 8 and 10” sizes. Obviously, the 10” gives greater cut capacity, but sometimes the 8” comes in handy for hardwoods or ripping. BTW, I have several other videos on my channel regarding making tables, setup/adjustment, and other functions that you may find useful. Be safe.
Wally Kunkel has a great table in his book,How to master the RAS
@@martintheron1386 Absolutely. That’s how I make all my tables!
Hi Brian, excellent video, since it confirms all my own preconceptions. That said, my RAS is my primary workshop saw but I have added a compound sliding mitre saw which now accounts for virtually all my crosscutting work. Ripping and dadoes are the RAS domain.
Thanks!
Good video.I have been using my Craftsman radial arm saw for over 40 years mainly for cross cutting.Usually use a small blade. Cuts down on the noise and makes nice smooth cuts.
Thank you. Yes, a small blade has advantages. Stay safe.
100% agree. Thanks. I was dubious about getting on.e a couple of years ago, but the possibilities and configurations make so much sense! I do think it’s safe if operated properly!
Thanks. Be safe!
Long time user of an old DeWalt MBC with an 11 amp motor. Nothing to add. You nailed it. Excellent video!
@@MichaelJohnson-tf8so Thanks. Looks like you’re a cyclist too. Ride on!
Hi 👋, I have had a kick back many many years ago, On a very old table saw, I used to use it to bookmatch pieces of wood when making veneers, The piece of wood was about 6 to 7 inches thick, and approximately 4 foot long, and anywhere between eight and 10 inches wide, a big lump of timber, I had been doing this for many years, Never had a problem, however, one day on a Friday at approximately 3:58 in the afternoon, I looked up at the clock at the end of my workshop wall, I do not remember much else, apart from I could hear a humming noise, wearing noise, the piece of wood that I was cutting raised up off the blade, and dropped back down onto it, the motor was around 10 hp, I believe the blade was around 24 to 26 inches in diameter, Need to say nothing was going to storm the motor, the piece of wood came back and hit me in my right hand side of my stomach, and shot me down the workshop, narrowing, missing a spigot that was sticking out on the side of my bench grinder, where I used to put on my mop, for backing a chisel, this spigot to through my clothes that I was wearing , luckily did not cut me, however, I did spend two days in hospital, And my body turned black, Because of this, I had to sell up all my tools and business, after working for myself for around 14 years, and as for the radial arm, saw, is a excellent piece of kit, As you say, making sure that it is correctly set up, Even to the point where I would remove the blade and the spindle, to make sure that the table was at the correct light at all angles, I would make sure I could slide just a piece of paper underneath it, and adjust the height of the table accordingly, never had a kickback on the radial arm saw when ripping, it is like any other machine, when used and set up correctly, it is very safe,
What I find strange , when watching RUclips, people using the surface planer/jointer, Guards, open guard, And pushing the piece of wood across the surface, where if there is a kickback, your hand fingers go straight into the block, I believe this to be one of the most dangerous machines to be used, Your guard should be virtually touching your piece of wood, and no blade visible when using the machine,
I have even seen a young lad , using a radio arm saw, where I saw him two or three times cross his hands over to grab the piece of wood from the right hand side and bring it across in front of the saw, On the third or fourth attempt, I managed to grab hold of him and pull him away from the machine, he got very angry, asked me why I done, I said you will lose your hand, and most of your arm, doing what you are doing by crossing your left over to your right in front of the blade, I’m now in my mid 70s retired, still have my fingers, and I still have most of my machinery, And hopefully in the next few months, area that I can use as a workshop, and hoping that I can start to make a Sam Maloof, chair,
Something I’ve always fancy doing, is teaching people how to use and make furniture , hope this is an insight to somebody, and can help, stay safe, Phil from the moulin France.
Thank you for your comment. Kickbacks are scary on any machine. I'm so glad that you understand, are aware of the correct safety procedures, and willing to teach others the same. Good luck with your furniture making. A Sam Maloof chair sounds life a fantastic project!
Thanks! I learned a lot from your channel about RAS. I'm not sure why but the RAS is my favorite saw in my shop.
Thank you. It's one of my favorite tools also!
Thanks for the info. I just got an old dewalt radial arm saw. I was unsure how to properly use it at first but I’m pretty confident now. It came without the anti kickback attachment so now I know I need to get one.
@@JayChuckOnFire Thanks. It’s important not to rip without the anti-kickback pawl. I highly suggest joining the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum. Lots of good people who can offer advice or answer questions about your saw. In the FAQs section, there is guidance on making your own pawl if you can’t find a replacement. Unfortunately, most used saws are missing them.
Outstanding presentation, educational value off the charts! You bet I subscribed! One of the best videos in presentation I have recently experienced...very well done!
Thank you very much!
Thanks Brian, you are the best source for RAS valid information.
Thanks. Much appreciated.
Just drove 4 hours to get a Delta 12 inch turret saw. After doing a fair amount of research and watching videos like yours, I came to the conclusion that a RAS will also be the heart of my small shop. Thank you very much for the quality content. I like your informative no BS style. Please keep making RAS videos.
Thanks so much! Congrats on your new saw. I highly recommend joining our DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum (even if you have a Delta)! It's a great source for all things RAS and a place to ask any questions about setup and use.
@@brianweekley5700 thank you, I will be joining!
@@brianweekley5700 I will be joining! I have a Delta/Rockwell 14" I will be rehabbing this winter.
Dear Brian, this is a fantastic video, I own a DeWalt 16" Heavy Duty 3 hp from 1969, [2] 10" from late 60's and today I bought a MB-C 9 " 1/2 hp from 1952.......thank you so much.....Paul in Orlando
Thanks! Enjoy your saws.
You have great videos Brian. I really appreciate the slow pace you take and the many illustrations you add it for clarification and additional instruction. I'll be recommending them to our sales people at the Canadian store I work at for sale training. Unfortunately, as our journeymen workers and serious hobbyist age, we're getting fewer in the pool of new workers who really understand the principles you are teaching. But, these are really useful for helping them understand. It's also a great encouragement for them to feel more interested and comfortable buying the tools and trying them out for themselves. I hope you keep this up for a long as you can. I own a Rockwell Delta Super 990 from the last 50's that has been in the family since new. It's an amazing tool.
Thank you. I appreciate your comment and support for my content. Glad you found the video useful.
I've inherited my father's DeWalt RAS many years ago, (2011) but without the claw attachment. Now I realize my father also received it without an anti-kickback paw. As an unexperienced woodworker I've also never set the blade cover down when ripping and experienced bord lift and kickback and I became very frustrated with the RAS, luckily no injuries while using it the wrong way with just any blade. Thanks for the video!
Now I will take it out of its 5 or more years off storage, but I don't think I will be able to find only the claw for the RAS here in South Africa.
We joke that somewhere there is a pile of them because so many people removed them-never to be seen again. If you join the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum, there are some posts in the FAQs section that show how you can make one. Also, if you post on that forum that you are looking for one, somebody might have one for sale.
Ripped every railing and balister for my deck using a Craftsman radial arm saw. As with any tool, education is the greatest safety feature.
Thanks. Sounds like a lot of work, but I'm sure it was worth it!
This is a very good and objective video on the RAS.
Twenty years ago I inherited by dad's Craftsman's RAS he purchased in the early 90's to replace the one he bought in the mid-60's.
I've kept it for its connection to my dad and usefulness for some projects.
I agree that there is a serious learning curve to use it skillfully, accurately, and safely.
I bought a friend's rarely used Shopsmith 520 4 years ago. It is also a peace of equipment that has a serious learning curve to skillfully, accurately, and safely use the table saw setup. I never used the table saw setup because I love my Sawstop.
Thanks for the comment. The SawStop is definitely a nice tool. I sold my old Craftsman table saw-mainly to gain space. Although there are times I miss having a table saw, I’ve found that I can do everything I need with my RAS.
Thank you for this very well thought out and presented discussion on rip cuts on my radial arm saw. I understand that ANY power tool, or even tool, can be a danger if used incorrectly. I have been reluctant to rip on my radial arm saw, but after watching your video I see it is easy to build the proper tools to make ripping easy and with care, safe. I have used a table saw for a while until after 68 years the motor failed. It is my fathers saw and I will restore it to good condition. But while lookinng for a motor I found radial arm saws are very low cost saws today and after purchasing one I have found it is very accurate and easy to use as long as I know where the blade and my fingers are. It be my goto saw from now on.
Thanks! I love table saws too. However, I sold my table saw and rely on my two radial arm saws-mainly to save space in my shop. I don’t really miss it since I can do everything with the RAS. It’s different, but just as capable.
You are the BEST! Fantastic job on this video! Thank you so much! So many people need to watch this video. DeWalt is the best Radial ever made!
Thanks so much Leo!
Another excellent video Brian ! Well done ! as always , thank you for the Mr. Sawdust mention.
Thank you, Wally. That means a lot coming from you. You and your dad have been very inspirational to me.
Thank you for this post. I have most types of saws rasin my hobby shop. I only use the radial arm saw for cross cuts
As long as it serves a purpose, it's a great addition to any shop.
Great video! Three things that will help prevent RAS and table saw accidents, and that is a conscience yet respectable fear of their blades, reading instructions and sage advise!
Thanks! Totally agree.
cutting the cord, right up close to the motor works too.
I have the Sears RAS saw my dad purchased new in 1968. Unfortunate the anti kickback is missing and apparently no available, a good project when I get back into the shop.
And Thank You for your video.
Thanks. Even though you have a Sears saw, I highly suggest joining the "DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum". In the FAQs section, there is some info about making your own anti-kickback pawls. However, you can often find them sold on eBay if you keep your eyes open for them.
Thanks, this video has been very educational & helpful for me.
I've had a Delta radial arm saw, (amongst other woodworking equipment) sitting idle in my basement for about 20 years now. Due to a slowdown at work and a soon anticipated retirement, I've taken an interest in these things. The RAS has got to be the most intimidating machine for me all the while knowing the many functions it's capable of that I want to learn while maintaining possession of my fingers and hands and keeping boards from flying into my gut. I think you've laid out a lot of good advice for safe usage or the RAS.
Thanks! You should definitely setup your RAS, I always suggest people to buy a copy of the book, "How to Master the Radial Arm Saw" by Wally Kunkel (I have no affiliation--just a great reference). It's a must have for setup, use, and safety. Also consider joining the "DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum" (Delta people are welcome too). A great place to answer any questions you may have about your RAS.
Около двадцати лет занимаюсь столярным делом, думаю, большенство профессиональных столяров рано или поздно приходят к радиальным пилам. Она удобна и многогранна! Спасибо за видео, вы подтвердили мои предложения!
Спасибо
This is an absolutely great video that will be a resource for many, for years to come..... especially with the imminent table saw price hike.
Thank you. I agree table saw prices will go up significantly once AIM is required on all saws.
@@brianweekley5700 Surely prices will go up should mandatory AIM actually come to pass but, for me personally, I considered only the Sawstop jobsite saws. There are times and places to save money but, IMO, the choice of a power saw is neither. I still do not have a Sawstop. The cabinet saw was a logistic impracticality, getting a 350 lb behemoth into my basement. I am still considering the SS Jobsite Pro and the SS Compact TS. If I procrastinate long enough, it seems impending legislation could make for more choices.
@@terrydanks I certainly would like to see more competition in saw safety out there.
Excellent and comprehensive video on the safe and proper use of a RAS
Glad you liked it
Thanks Brian for the high production quality of the video and the thoughtful content. I like the graphics and historical perspectives as well and learning more technical details about the saw and its proper use. Looking at the beauty of your saw and the various jigs you've assembled is impressive - makes me jealous. I appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge.
Glad you liked it. Thanks for the kind reply.
Brian - been watching your videos for a while now, Great Job on all of them, this is the best one yet! I have an addiction, we have 3 RAS in the shop. 1 for precision crosscutting, 1 for dados ( rips and crosscut) one for general use. They're great machines and thank you for taking the time to make this video. (I can't imagine the hours you have into it.) Hopefully this will help educate the uninformed population about the versatility of the RAS. I never comment on videos you moved me to do so with this one- keep them coming I appreciate them!!
Thank you. I appreciate the comment. I have many more videos planned, but finding the time to make them is always a challenge. Glad you appreciated it!
Best documentary I've watched in a while. Amazing production quality.
Thank you very much. I appreciate the comment!
I learned how to use a radial arm saw in high school shop class. I now live in Europe and have never seen one here. That is, until recently, I noticed an old dusty Craftsman radial arm saw in the corner of my Dutch boat builder's shop.. Your video encourages me to ask the boat builder if he would like to part with his saw. Thank you for this video.
Thanks. If they’re not using it, why not!
RAS machines are still common in large workshops across Europe but used almost exclusively for rough crosscutting of stock as a first step in the milling process. Precision crosscutting is almost always done on sliding table saws as they offer higher precision, ease of use and safety. That being said, high quality new RAS machines are still being manufactured by companies like Graule and Maggi.
Here in the US, many home woodworkers still use radial arm saws. In larger, commercial settings, they are still used mainly for crosscutting wood and metal. The Original Saw Company still manufactures quality radial arm saws for commercial use.
Excellent video. Very well done. Clear graphics.
There is no way a RAS is more dangerous than a table saw. No way. They make sense, they’re efficient, they’re space-savers, and they’re versatile.
Thank you!
Excellent explanation of operation, Brian! Thanks for creating this outstanding educational video.
Thanks, Rush!
Great video Brian. I have the option to rip with a radial arm saw, a Shopsmith, setup in the table saw configuration, or a band saw. There are some ripping scenarios that I will only use my radial arms saw because it is safer in my opinion. In Wally Kunkel’s book he explains how to use a straight edge clamped to the piece being cut and running that straight edge against the front of the radial arm saw table. The cut off piece falls away from the blade. This requires the operator to stand in front of table, not behind the blade at all. I use this method for ripping off live edges, crooked edges, and long tapered edges.
Thanks! Sometimes, there are multiple tools that work for a given job, but you need to select the one that best works for you. I'm certainly not trying to suggest that the RAS should be selected over other tools. My intent was simply to dispel the rumors that ripping can't be safely done on a RAS. The sled run along the front of the RAS table (also a sled run against the fence) is a great example for ripping a live edge board. However, a sled run along a table saw fence can be used too. I may choose to rip on my bandsaw, table saw, or RAS, depending on the situation.
Thank you for making this video. I use my RAS quite often and I love it.
Thank you. I use mine frequently.
Thanks for the information! I picked up a ras years ago but when I asked my older carpenter freind about settting it up he said he would not help because he had personally seen too many incidents of ejection when ripping and too many climb cuts while cross cutting. It has sat in the corner under a tarp ever since. Now I know that I have to find some kickback pawls for it if I want to try it out.
if your friend experienced ejections while ripping (or climb cuts cross-cutting), I'd put money down that he was not using an appropriate blade (and probably wasn't using the anti-kickback pawl). The Freud LU83 will work great for all cut modes.
@brianweekley5700 I agree. It did intimidate me at the time so that's why I never used it.
Your friend’s experiences are typical of a few operator-errors, no offense to your friend. Brian’s great videos cover how to correct those errors. In this video he mentioned the importance of blade choice WRT to cut efficiency, but his other vids touch on the tooth rake angles, proper table construction, and proper tuning/alignment, which are all critical to safe use.
The great value of the RAS is its amazing adaptability, but those many ways of tweaking the cutting operation necessitate the operator to correctly control/tune the several degrees of freedom, including a perfectly flat and level table. If a single adjustment is not correctly set, then the blade can easily contact the workpiece in a way that compromises the cut quality or even grab the workpiece. Proper tuning yields perfect cuts, just like a cabinet saw.
@@SuperBardleyI completely agree. My friend built houses for 50 years and his experience was a mobile,temporary set up, in which the RAS is the wrong tool for the job. In a shop setting the RAS can be maintained square and level far easier. There is also less temptation to use the wrong or a dull blade.
Agree-the RAS is not viewed as a portable saw. However, back in the day before chops saws/sliding miter saws, the RAS was commonly taken to job sites all over the place on custom trailers (search for radial arm saw on trailers). Granted, they were probably used more for crosscutting then ripping though.
The opposite end of a radial saw motor has the advantage of attaching a chuck to the threaded shaft that I have rigged to work as a boring machine. The saw holds a special place in my shop for many decades. i use it as a dado, as a disk sander just to name a few other uses other than my main cross cut tool.
Excellent presentation. Only had one kickback on a RAS, when the workpiece was too short to reach the pawls after the cut.
Thanks. That’s where the push board comes in handy to push the piece through to the pawls.
You have a great looking and obviously well cared for saw. It is such a pleasure to see it work. Thank you for showing theses safety tips!!!
Thanks. Yes, it’s a nice saw! I appreciate the comment.
You know, I’m happy to see this video.
One thing I found interesting is you mentioning the saw pushing the material down to the table when ripping.
My experience was the board wants to lift from the table. Even when you set the guard as low to the material as possible.
Board buddies would help, I considered them.
I bought my first table saw maybe a month or two after going through an RAS stint.
The table saw is a dream in comparison in my opinion.
I’ve parted with my last RAS for now until I can get a larger shop space in the future I’m guessing. Too many other tools to prioritize first.
Awesome tools. Be careful. Use a sacrificial push stick to finish the cut ripping on the RAS at all times my friends.
Thanks. Yes, the RAS does tend to lift the board up at the beginning of the cut/front half of the saw blade. However, the portion of the board past the center axis of the blade has no upward force to lift it. Therefore, there’s no need to hold the board down all the way past the blade like a table saw. I rip on table saws too. The purpose of my video was to show it is possible to safely rip on a RAS.
Very interesting and complete video. I developed a fascination for the radial arm saw, a such versatile tool. Almost bought one but a friend of mine , woodworker by trade, put his veto. So, I sticked to the table saw :)
Thank you. I use and appreciate table saws too! I'm not saying not to use one--only trying to show that radial arm saws can be used for ripping (when used correctly).
Brian - Its been a long time since I watched one of your videos and I am really impressed with the both the content and presentation. This is by far the best presentation I've seen on ripping. And it is the most impartial and honest. Roy
Thanks, Roy. I really appreciate that.
First class presentation. I’ve used a RAS for many years and I’m just as nervous using it as my table saw and that’s perfectly fine with me. I now own three old school Dewalts and one Delta, love them all.
Thank you. Agree--a little fear is needed to operate any power tool. Never get complacent!
I’ve owned my Dewalt RAS for over 30 years and I’ve made just about anything it can make mouldings all types of cuts drilling routing sanding etc. first and foremost as with any power tool in the shop you must fully understand how to operate the equipment, for the RAS there’s plenty of information about using it correctly one of the best books out there there is the book by Mr. Sawdust that fully goes into the operation of the RAS. Just be safe stop when your tired and don’t push the machine beyond it’s capabilities and you’ll be fine ..
Totally agree! Thanks.
I bought my Craftsman RAS many years back and still use it today. Rip and cross cut are what I use it mostly for...Haven't explored the dado stack yet.
I have the updated safety features and am very careful whilst the tool is in use. Like a pilot with his check list before take off, I do have a check list I use before I start up the saw. Better to be as safe than sorry is what my dad has taught me. great video to enforce my use of the fantastic saw.
Cutting dados on the RAS is a joy. It’s so nice seeing what you are cutting compared to a table saw with the blade on the bottom.
Wow! Very good video! I had no idea about the blades. I am using a Craftsman 10" radial arm saw that I inherited from my Father when he passed. I received a bunch of free 2 X 6 and 2 X 8 fir that I have had to rip down into 2 X 4 size. Just ordered an 8" Freud LU83 blade. Can't wait to try it out ripping! Thanks!
Thanks. It should work well for you. Good luck with ripping boards!
Thank you for another well put together instructional video. I did not know Mr Reiche passed on….RIP sir. His site was absolutely invaluable to me when I began to learn about these great old machines.
Thanks. Yes, Paul’s passing is a big loss. Wally Kunkel’s grandson has taken on the site.
Thanks Brian, love my RAS
Thanks. Be safe!
great information! I appreciate the thorough explanation, attention to detail and included charts. 👍
Thank you. Glad you liked it!
Excellent video. I love my old Dewalt RAS.
Thanks!
Well Brian, you finally pushed me over the precipice! Bought a 925H yesterday and ordered the "book". Hopefully a pleasant journey!
Oh no, don't blame me! LOL! Have fun with your new toy. The DeWalt 925 is a good, small saw.
Great video, now I will appreciate my RAS even more, and thanks for the tips
Thanks. Much appreciated!
Very good demonstration. Thanks for the tips. That is a beautiful saw you have.
Thank you very much!
good video, i agree with your conclusion. putting matters of safety down to "you have to set it up correctly every single time" is basically asking for people to get injured. not ALL people, but a lot of them.
Thanks. If you’re implying that the radial arm saw needs some sort special setup every time you use it, that’s not what I said. I’m just referring to the initial setup of the saw (when you first put it into service). The initial setup of a RAS takes some work. However, once it is properly setup, it’s no different than using a table saw.
@@brianweekley5700 sure, that's fair, but the saw is designed to be multi purpose, so people will be re-setting it up for different operations. it's an advantage to the RAS but it demands the user do things correctly. the table saw can't do things the RAS can do which is a disadvantage, but at the same time leaves little room for user error in this specific area.
Sorry, I don't get it--both machines are multi-purpose! You perform the same multi-purpose operations on the TS that you do on the RAS. Moving the carriage to set a rip width on RAS is equivalent to moving the fence on a TS. Rotating the arm to set a miter on RAS is equivalent to rotating the miter gauge on TS. Tilting the blade to cut a bevel on a RAS is equivalent to tilting the blade on a TS. You can put a dado blade on the RAS just like you put a dado blade on a TS, etc... You're making it far more complicated then it is. The only real difference between the two machines is that on the RAS you (pull the blade) through the wood (cross-cut, miter, bevel) where on the TS you (push the wood) through the blade. While ripping, both are equivalent operations (pushing the wood through the blade). The machines are different, but perform the same functions.
thank you,very informative,i plan on setting up 2 of my radial arm saws just for ripping.appreciate the mathematical formulas for the gains of using a smaller blade
Thank you!
Always good to watch your videos. I'd say that dust extraction makes ripping on a radial arm saw relatively unpleasant. The dust is certainly less annoying using the RAS outside. In the workshop shop dust extraction on a European style table saw with guard in place is much less dusty. I've never had much success in dust collect on a RAS.
Thank you. Have you watched my video on dust collection? I find dust collection while ripping not too bad. Usually a little burst when the wood first enters the blade, but does pretty well thereafter. It is worse when I use a smaller diameter blade. Is your dust port on the front or the rear of the guard?
Hmm, I have not used a European saw, but can confirm that I get really good dust removal while ripping on my Delta RAS. Just like the Euro tools, one must use some form of dust extraction to actively draw the dust away. Remarkably, when the operator follows the great guidance in this video, by lowering the blade guard to the workpiece and attaching a shop vac to the chip chute on the guard, I seem to get better than 95% water removal. But, if a vac is not used, then the chips pour out of the chip chute and make a big mess, just like any other tool that isn’t utilizing dust control(s).
I have the exact same DeWalt Radial Arm Saw - it is my favorite tool - by far - great video! I also have the Jig Saw attachment but I think it is missing a part or two - but what a clever idea that was.
Thanks. I’ve never had the jig saw attachment, but it seemed more of a novelty rather than a useful accessory. However, I have found the sanding disc attachment to be very useful.
Very helpful video! Thank you very much for your time and effort.
Thank you!
Good to see the classic DeWalt's still in use. Good condition too.
Thanks. Absolutely, they’re great machines!
An excellent video. I bought a radial arm saw after watching your videos and several others. I did not want to spend a large amount of money needed for a sliding miter saw that could be calibrated to make really accurate cuts. I was able to buy a 1957 DeWalt and, using the information from your videos and from the Northland Woodworker, tune it up perfectly. I sometimes rip boards with it, but I follow all the recommended safety procedures including adding the board buddies. Speaking just for myself, I would be interested in seeing a few project videos using only the radial arm saw. Please keep your videos coming, I think they are extremely well-made and informative. I also wonder if you'll get a response video from James (Stumpy Nubs) Hamilton. He's made a few RAS videos focused on how they can be misused.
I think stumpy, who I think normally does a good job, missed the boat on that one. He really shows a bias against the RAS. He acted like people don't do equally unsafe things on a table saw. I also noticed He is pushing Harvey Table saws. Wondered if that colored his presentation. Enough said about James.
Brian thank you for trying to set the record straight with facts.
Thank you very much. I do have several project videos that were made primarily with the radial arm saw. One of the most recent ones was this...
ruclips.net/video/GEy4QOwhwpo/видео.htmlsi=W-QL3G82Pp3H7FyO
100% excellent video. Every word precise and true.
My primary suspected reason that RA saws got their bad rep was PR stories by table saw makers!
Thank you. Maybe PR had some influence?
climb cutting by default on cross cuts is why it's scares me.
@@cho4d
Your fear is less valid than good workmanship and care around powertools. Don't be a woos -- get educated and follow best practise. After all, they didn't get to the moon because they were afraid of leaving earth. 🙄
Climb cutting is not an issue if you use the correct blade! One hand on the yoke and one hand on the board. It is not a monster. In all my decades of RAS use, the only time "climb cutting" was ever an issue was when I installed a cheap dado stack that had an aggressive, positive hook angle (+15). I promptly retired that dado stack.
This is awesome. While a radial arm saw may not be as fast as a miter saw sometimes, you can do all a miter saw can do and more! It's really more versatile. I just got a dewalt radial arm saw that looks identical to the one in the video for free and it's awesome!
No doubt the RAS is versatile. My RAS(s) do everything I need. In fact, I even sold my table saw (mainly for space savings). Enjoy your free saw! If you haven’t done so, consider joining the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum. Lots of good tips and information. A great place to ask any any questions you may have.
@brianweekley5700 yea i guess if you could only have 1 out of table saw, radial arm, and miter, the Radial is the most versatile of the 3. Who wudda thunk
thanks for info!!!! Owned a sears craftsman to dangerous not enough power for crosscuts. even with thin kerf 50 tooth
Thanks. Sounds like time to find a larger RAS!
I grew up in a home that had the exact same AMF Dewalt Saw shown in this video my experience of Ripping on that Saw was it was always under powered therefore it made the motor overwork so much it would pop the Thermal Protctor and it took the two pair of hands guiding the Sheet Goods to let go of the Board to re set the Breaker
Yes, the MBF is rather under-powered. I generally rip with my larger, more powerful 1030.
I’m glad i found your channel! I’ve recently added my late father’s Dewalt radial arm saw to my show. I’ll be watching your other videos to ensure that everything is properly aligned. Your newest subscriber has one question: where do you find the “board buddies” that you described & depicted? Thanks for focusing time & attention on these misunderstood, but wonderful saws!
Thanks-glad you found my videos useful. Woodstock “Board Buddies” can be found at Grizzly and other woodworking suppliers. Equivalent “Board Mates” can be found at Peachtree Woodworking. The Yellow (clockwise) version is most useful on the RAS. BTW, I’ll be providing more info about ripping and the use of board buddies in an upcoming video.
Thank you very much for the source of Board Buddies. Again, I’m very glad that I found your channel!
Wonderful and Informative Video ! THANK YOU for Sharing
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comment.
Dear teacher, I am very grateful for this video since it has given me the valuable and necessary information before using this machine. The truth is that I believe that this video has already saved someone from having an accident. (I say this for myself) please accept my thanks and a hug from BOLIVIA 🇧🇴
Thanks for your comment. Be safe!
I got one sitting. I'll use it now after watching this. I'll set it up at my milling station. Thanks
They are useful to have.
@@brianweekley5700 What part of the world are you in? You really got some great information down to the detail on saw blades. I'm getting ready to buy a bandsaw sharpener. I have a timberking 2020, and am very impressed with it. My property burned down in the Caldor fire, and the trees don't get destroyed, just killed. The lumber is great.
@@homesculptor I'm in New England. So sorry to hear about the fire out there and the damage to your property. Hope you get to take advantage of that bandsaw mill and the wood available. i see a nice, timber frame in your future!
@@brianweekley5700 Funny you should mention that. A neighbor lost about 20 large oaks. I'm going to mill them for a 30x40 barn. I think that would be so cool to have a barn with oak post and beam. I'm lifelong carpenter and love wood. However, I screwed up and bought heavy equipment and make more money doing that than I can carpentry. I did just build a 10x12 legally unpermitted shed way overbuilt and used cedar on the exterior. It took 3 28" diameter 16' logs to make the d.f. framing. And about the same for the cedar exterior. I routed all the cedar for the exterior. What a task that was.
Sounds like a fantastic project! I've cut a timber frame with only hand tools (the barn shown in my avatar and on my RUclips channel header).
That's a beautiful old dewalt. (Back when dewalt was actually dewalt) my grandfather bought one new I the 60s, a little 10" unit, to help build his home. He ripped with it and had cutter heads to make moldings as well.. he had all his fingers at the end.
Thank you. I'm always impressed when someone builds their own house. The DeWalt RAS helped many do it!
Very helpful video. I have a near-complete GWI model and I cannot seem to find a pawl for it since it is less common. The only ones I find are for the smaller and more common versions. The manuals for both seem to indicate that the pawl for the GWI is not the same one that is used for the smaller saw.
I have a DeWalt GW and an MBF. They use the same ripping pawl.
Great, I am happy to be mistaken. I will restart the search. Thanks!
Thanks!
I tried this on my craftsman and it went well. 😊
Good to hear!
Excellent coverage of material in this video
Thanks. Much appreciated!
Brian, have you found setting your ripping measurement to be more difficult, than on a table saw?
What is your solution for getting accurate rip width?
I've always used a steel rule against the fence to set the rip measurement on both RAS and table saws. Both come down to eyeing the teeth on the blade against the graduations on the rule. I never completely trust the scale on any saw!
@@brianweekley5700 I have had many years of use of table saws, various kinds in the contractor range, not accurate furniture work. Recently, I have been able to set up my radial(Delta Super 990) and I really like how it works, and finding I prefer using it for many cuts I’m used to on the table saw.
But that one thing of setting the saw to rip accurately has been a challenge.
I guess it will get better with the more time I get to spend using it.
Enjoy your videos. Thanks
@@simonstuhl4170 BTW, you may find this "micro-adjuster" I made to help set and accurately fine tune the ripping distance...
ruclips.net/video/rYe-stxDZds/видео.html
Sadly, I no longer own one, but I used to have an MBF (9") that I used a lot. I regret selling it, but I'm soon getting a Deluxe Power Shop 10" I would easly rip full sheets of plywood on the old MBF, which could rip out to 24". In-feed and out-feed rollers kept the bandy 1/2 panels from mis-behaving. Also, pine boards and fir 2x6. You just have to adjust the entire thing square and true in multiple axis. And, understand that you can't over feed. Some soft woods are still sort of wet inside and you don't want to steam up the moisture, causing the cut to swell shut on the blade. very bad.
Glad to hear you’re getting another. Sometimes, the 10 inch saw comes in handy. Enjoy your new saw.
Excellent, excellent video. This winter I will cleaning/restoring/setting up a 60 year old Delta/Rockwell 14' saw I purchased last year. The saw is almost complete, missing the anti-kickback pawl and the leaves. I intend to replace them before use. Is there a reason there is no riving knife on the anti-kickback pawl? If you have time to answer.... Blade buddies are a great tip!
Thanks. Unlike a table saw, a RAS doesn’t need a riving knife (for the purpose of preventing the wood from twisting behind the blade and kicking back like it could on a table saw). However, a splitter (for the purpose of keeping reaction wood from closing up and pinching the blade) would be desirable. Although some RAS models may include a splitter, many models do not. Maybe because the kickback pawl is so far behind the blade (on my DeWalts). Personally, I’ve only experienced pinching a handful of times (tends to stall the motor). In that case, stopping the motor, retrieving the board, and feeding through again usually relieves the internal stress and stops the blade pinching.
@@brianweekley5700 Thanks much for the response. I think I meant splitter, just to keep the wood from pinching.
I feel more comfortable with my RAS than my table saw. I have to check two to three times before I start ripping or cross-cutting. Although I am still careful with my RAS.
Both tools work well. Just work safe with both. I was mainly trying to dispel the myth that a RAS can’t be used to safely rip.
While I have eyed a Sawstop cabinet saw and would buy no other at this time, I really feel most at home with my 1976 vintage Sears 10" RAS. I feel I know it well and, yes, I have experienced a few kickbacks over the years. Truth is, I feel more secure ripping with it than with a table saw because I have so much experience with it and so little with a table saw.
It seems strange that critics of the RAS complain about blade exposure and seem completely to overlook
the totally exposed blade of the TS as they push wood past it without the use of even a push stick, let alone a blade guard!
Both saws are potentially dangerous. I see them as being "different." But neither is inherently safer than the other.
I did note that no mention was made in the video of a splitter. My saw has a splitter as well as kickback pawls and I use both religiously. I assumed all RAS had splitters?
I have not been sophisticated in my choice of saw blades. I have ordered the Freud combo blade you mention. Were it not for the video, I would have gone with a low tooth count "ripping" blade rather than the combo.
The tragedy described here is simply mind boggling! Having a child in the line of fire of kickback is unbelievable and no one so clueless has any business operating a power saw!
Thank you. If I ever replaced my table saw, it would surely be one that has AIM technology like the SawStop (really the only one currently available in the US). Interesting that you noticed no discussion on a splitter! I struggled with addressing that in this video. No, most RAS's did not come with splitters. I've only seen one very rare splitter on a large DeWalt saw. I believe some of the Craftsman models did? I've often thought about fabricating a splitter for mine (incorporated with the pawl). On a RAS, its only purpose would be to prevent reaction wood from potentially pinching the blade. A splitter (or riving knife) is much more important on a table saw to prevent the wood from moving into the back of the blade (not critical on a RAS). However, having a splitter on the pawl would also create a lot of alignment issues with the blade to work without a problem. I have had the blade be pinched two or three times where a splitter may have helped. Fortunately, this just slowed or stopped the blade and required me to stop the motor. Excellent point though! I think you'll be happy with the LU83. Let me know how you like it. These two blades are the only ones we recommend on the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum.
@@brianweekley5700 Yes, the splitter I mentioned is on a Sears Craftsman purchased new in 1976. The splitter rides on the same sliding adjustment arm as the kickback pawls and drops into the kerf (or, pedantically, where the kerf WILL be) automatically when the pawls are set.
Simple. Whether it has saved me from anything, I cannot say as it's always there.
The RAS or Radial Arm Saw is so misunderstood. In my opinion, it's far superior to that of a table saw. Honestly, wished I had one, they're extremely versatile. No saw is any safer than another. I also feel that a RAS is perfect for making dado's over the TS. I will say if you use a thin kerf blade, make certain you use a stiffener, they do tend to "wobble". Another addition to what the RAS could do, you could remove the head and install a router if you had the proper attachment, again, making the RAS a versatile machine.
Any and all accidents are operator error. Heck, I had kick back on my joiner once, messed up my right thumb for a few months, still have mobility issues with that thumb. In addition to what you're saying, "some people shouldn't be around power tools". Thank you for sharing this video. Cheers :)
Thanks for the comment. Well said. Yes, a blade stiffener is a good addition to a thin kerf blade and dados are so nice on a RAS.
What a beautiful De Walt saw. I would have paid a lot of money years ago for that beauty. To hard to find one in good condition these days. The people who have them don’t appreciate them and don’t even know how to use them but they want lots of money because “someone” told them it’s gold.
Thanks. There's plenty of good saws out there to be had. I restored that saw: ruclips.net/video/FN8nawcodjA/видео.htmlsi=dwwxdRHW3qoh1XJ2
A word about blade size. yes, larger blades reduce motor torque at the tooth. This is why DeWalt made these saws in hp ratings all the way up to 7 hp. If you regularly need to cross cut or rip thicker stock, buy the saw with the hp to drive the blade you need. For a 14” blade, you need 3-5 hp. To drive it with a 3 hp motor, you will want 3 phase power. For a 12” blade you want 2-3 hp. Anything less than 2 hp, stick with 10” or under. And if you decide to mount a dado stack, Drop your blade diameter by 4” for larger saws and by at least 2” for smaller saws. That is, If I want to cut a bunch of rabbets or dados without having to do a dozen passes per board, I will swap my 14” blade for a 10” or 8” diameter dado stack. ( with as many teeth on the side blades as I can find ) If you are running a 12” blade, your dado stack should be no bigger than 8”. But for a half horse saw running an 8” blade, a 6” dado should be fine.
Yes, totally agree with your points and always better to have a larger saw.
I ripped for many years on my dad’s DeWalt MBF. I was in my early teens when I began using it. Fifty years later I still have all body parts.
Proper alignment of EVERY part of the saw is critical. There are many things that can cause the blade to drag on one side of the kerf, leading to mishaps.
I had two kickbacks with that saw. Both were my fault. The first flung a narrow, short workpiece…hard! It was too short and it cocked behind the blade. It hit an upright piece of plywood, ricocheted, and landed over 50 feet away in the street. The second was a longer but very narrow rip cut. Again, the piece was too small and light. If I’d had a proper push block as pictured in this video, it wouldn’t have happened.
I didn’t realize at the time that the table was probably warped. You can’t align the saw to an imperfect table.
I never had a crosscut climb to disaster. When it happened (because I wasn’t in proper control of the carriage), it’d just stall the blade. I now own a 5 HP DeWalt that demands proper attention to its operation.
Lastly, I also have a 10 HP DeWalt that someone, sometime let get away. The arm end cap has been brazed back together, so it appears that somebody had a bad day when the carriage and 16” blade burst into his lap. Perhaps in the same incident, the arm broke where it pivots on the column. I doubt that damage was ever noticed until I bought the saw for its long arm, which of course isn’t usable. Oh well. No one will ever know what sort of neglect or abuse led to those accidents, but yes, don’t play games of ignorance or carelessness with the big DeWalts.
Thanks. All good points. Stay safe!
This is a great video! I couldn't have done better myself. And remember, if you visit New York, be sure to see Schenectady: Its a paradise!
Thanks. I appreciate your videos too!
Thoughtful and well presented.
Thank you!
Great Video! Thank You! Be safe! Work Safe!
Thanks, you too!
Thank You. I recently bought a DeWalt saw and didn't know how to properly set it. I ripped a 14 foot 1 x 8 and made a setup and didn't have any problem, it rip's better than my craftsman 10 " table saw ever did. The cast iron construction is amazing. Is there a router head available for making trim or a spindle that fit's the motor?
Thanks. I highly suggest buying a copy of the book “How to Master the Radial Arm Saw” by Wally Kunkel. He includes much info about molding and shaping with the RAS. You can find old Delta/Rockwell molding heads and profiles that work very well.
I grew up around a radial arm saw. Hate a table saw. Love the RAS
Don’t get me wrong, I like to use a table saw too. Just intended to show the RAS works just as well to rip.
I totally agree that 99.9% of accidents are caused by operator error. I also have seen more people injured on tablesaws than RAS.
Thanks for the comment. To be fair, there are many more table saw users than radial arm saw users. Last year, I had a friend sustain a serious finger injury on a table saw. I do like having my hands further away from the blade while ripping on a RAS.
All things equal (which they aren’t, by far), I like having my digits much further away from the blade with a RAS, especially when ripping.
That, and I love the versatility of a RAS vs needing multiple saws. A RAS is the Swiss Army knife of the saw world.
The "Swiss Army knife" of the saw world. Love that! LOL!
Selection bias much?
@@VEC7ORlt To be fair, few people are natively great with statistical analysis. Most folks need trained, or at least be given cause to actually engage the problem on a deep and thoughtful level. Like the Navy with its lucky-to-caught survivorship bias, even otherwise intelligent and rational people will fall into the pit trap that is approaching statistical analysis via feelings, gut or otherwise.
For anything and everything any given person knows, there was a day they did not. Someone had to take the time, to figure it out themselves (which is where fallacies can really run amok, as it's the sort of mistake you'll keep repeating), or else someone took the time to teach.
:P We're all born idiots, in other words, and life is the process of amending that natural fault. Most folks ain't wrong on purpose. So, it's best them a little wiser, a little more clever, a little more enlightened. And, preferably, encouraged, not shamed.
Short quips can end up sounding harsher than intended; and people afraid of being wrong tend to be left to repeat unnecessary mistakes. The world has too much of that, already. Just a thought, anyway.
..though I came to say pretty much the same. >.> Don't misread me, though, 'cause I'd far prefer a harsh lesson than being condemned to enduring ignorance. :P
Fantastic video, thank you for sharing.
Thank you. I appreciate the comment.