I bought my radial arm saw in 1964. Only had to change the bearings on the motor once and the on/off switch. I also made one new table. It's still going strong. Not bad for 55 years. And I've built countless things with it, including a grandfather clock and the shop it's sitting in.
Trying to move and set up a radial arm saw without any help can be a pain... It's heavy and a bit cumbersome to move around... I bought one the other day and I'm now needing to build a table to go under it and a cutting deck for the top of it...
The best dado machine on the planet. You can use the dado with the grain (rip) as well. Beautiful saw. I picked up a 7790 Type 7 12" about a month ago. (1981) Thanks for the apron link below.
Nice video, but I have to disagree with the glued-in fence. Because the fence will get "used" as you cut, it makes sense to clamp it in place from the rear, so it can be replaced when it gets chewed up.
I agree, it does make sense to clamp it...just that as much as I'm using it, it was just easier and less expensive to glue it together than to build a Mr. Sawdust Table, which is the standard. I don't expect to need a new fence for years to come. At that point I probably will build a Mr. Sawdust Table.
If you are cutting angles. However the smart way to cut angles with the radial is to use angle blocks to angle the work not the saw. That way you will always making a straight cut. I never move my saw. One kerf and never had to change my fence. I agree, the table should be two pieces and the fence trapped between. All two owners manuals I have seen have it that way and all it takes is a quick rip from a sheet and seconds to slide the old one out and new one in.
Cool Shop. Get the Manual !! Tells you EveryThing on how to do this the Right Way, some of which you are doing a wrong way and losing the precision available.. Just Google: "manual for Dewalt 7790 radial arm saw" - most are free to download & print. No reason Not to do miters & bevels - it is made for that with more accuracy than other ways. Agree with others about not gluing fence. Use the clampings built in. But make better clamps by using Spiral curved cam clamps. Last - your flip-flip to check square cut - only flip once & keep the cut edges Together. You did a spin that is not right. You're very clever to figure out how. Please show the Right Way, though.
I have been in the roofing business for over 40 years now. In 1989 we did a residential roof for a lady and as we were finishing the job on a Friday night she asked me if I wanted to buy a radial arm saw from her. I said that would depend on the saw. She opened the garage door and proceeded to remove 15 coverings from the saw. As we removed the last cover a beautiful 9 inch DeWalt Radial Arm Saw emerged. She said her dad bought it in the 1950's and cut only one board with it and I believed her. The saw looked like it was manufactured that day. Absolutely beautiful. I asked her what see wanted for it and she said I'll call you this weekend with a price. Sunday afternoon she called and said she wanted $168.00. Yes, $168.00. An odd number for a person to person transaction. When I arrived she had a box next to the saw with 11 non-carbide blades in it. Along with a DeWalt dado set, a DeWalt sanding attachment, and the original owners manual. I handed her 3 one hundred dollar bills and told her the saw was worth every penny. Looking back I should have given her more. We loaded up the saw and brought it to my garage. The next day was Monday and very rainy so I tried out my new saw for 4 or 5 hours. I installed three different Freud crosscut blades on it, one of them an LU85. The saw cut everything perfectly. I only use the saw for 90 and 45 degree cuts and some dado cuts. I don't use it for anything else because it has the original table with the pre-made cuts into it and I want to keep it just like it was in the 1950's. And I have hardly used it the past 30+ years. Of course I have a beautiful right tilt table saw (that's what I grew up using, right tilts) that I do all my ripping on. I have three miter saws, two with 12 inch capacity that I can do most of my crosscuts on. All of these saws we are talking about on here are very dangerous and I'm sure all of us commenting know this. I think it's easier to do particular cuts with a certain saw and that's why I have an arsenal of them but it's also what a person gets use to using. My dad never owned a table saw and did most of his sawing with a radial. He never owned an electric miter saw but he did have a couple of miter boxes. Yes, he was old school.
In 1950 the saw and all its parts only cost 168.00 My dad bought a sears craftsmen table top saw in 1963 62? I know i was very young like 2 or 3 more like 18 months old i know this because i was walking. Both mom and dad went to buy it and i went with too young to stay home alone. My dad had that saw when he passed away in 2013. He built boats with it. I think my older brother has it now He got all his tools. I should have the saw i went with to buy it, he was in school he is 10 years older then me. Anyway i think the saw was like 89 bucks back then. I have 3 table saws so I don't need that one one of mine cost 850 in 2002 its now 2k grizzly The other a Jet cost 1700 not sure now, and the last one i paid 150 for off a airplane service man who got transfered. But he only used one time and paid 350 for it. But i think he was scared to use it. I had to drive 150 miles round trip to get it. I bought it for someone else but decided to keep it. He later got one free brand new from his new boss. O also havec2 ras and i use the ras s lot.
@@bobbg9041 That's right.....that's what the lady told me her dad paid for the saw. $168.00. It's a beauty. My dad had a Sears model also...... bought it in the mid 1960's. After he died all his tools came to me.....but I only have so much room....so I gave his saw to my nephew......I wanted to keep it in the family.
Great video and valuable information on positioning the fence. Great buy at $100. I got a Craftsman "newer" one (1980) with all the factory recall safety features added in. Old guy took really good care of it and it works very nice. One thing - I would screw the fence into the table so you can replace it if you want to later - it will be a lot easier. Otherwise - fantastic video. Thanks for sharing.
Downward force on the arm to embed the blade for loosening the nut is not advised. This is how saws get sloppy. Use two wrenches and your tool will serve you better longer.
Two wrenches (one on the nut & one on the shaft) are much better and safer. Rest the end of the one on the shaft on the table, apply force with the other. Remember that it is reverse-threaded.
i picked up one from craigslist about 15 years ago... some guy bought it, used it a few times and his wife wanted the space back in the garage... i use mine almost exclusively for dados for cabinets, and to clean up half laps on 4x4's after using the skillsaw to rough cut a bunch of slashes, and bashing the waste out with a hammer... it's nice to be able to see what you're cutting from the top, rather than having it cut UP from the bottom... but with a sled for the tablesaw and a mitre saw, i don't use the RAS for anything else. last fall i built an 8x8' table for both my table saws - in opposing right hand corners so each has a huge run-off... the RAS is a beast and glad i have it, but personally, i feel much safer doing long cuts on the table.
I just picked up mine for $50 and I'm SUPER happy with it. It saves me a lot of time with dado's and crosscuts depending on the job. I don't rip with it because I already have a good setup on my little table saw, but when I get to bigger projects I might consider it. Anyway, great vid. :)
Someone is giving me my first Radial Arm Saw this weekend. It looks like it is in good shape and well loved. I was wondering about how to make a better station for it. Your video has been wonderfully helpful and given me some good inspiration. Thank you so much for posting this!
Matthew Carpenter If you check and adjust everything in the correct order and the table is correct, you will love using it. If not, you may be wanting to sell it soon. Check this video. ruclips.net/video/QKSkZ1vAzNc/видео.html. It will help you. Kevin
Great saw, I have one that I just picked up in a garage sale. I attached my fence with dowel pins and screws to hold it down. The fence gets eaten pretty quickly. There are a couple more adjustments you need to make on the saw. Cutting thru a 2 inch wide board is pretty easy to keep it square....Cut a piece of plywood 12 inches wide and see how the blade tracks over the 12 inch travel. Mine was off almost .025 from the fence to the end of the travel. Also you need to adjust the perpendicularity of the blade to the table. You can adjust this with the three adjustable bearings on the other end of the motor. There is a manual on line you can download and get this information. Took me almost 4 hours to get mine cutting dead nuts on....Im only out about .005 on perpendicularity...
You should move your front fence little more forward with out touching the blades when you resting it back into position with out the blades grabbed the front fence 🙉🙈🙊😯🤥😹🤗🎣🦦🦦🦦
JMHO. By limiting yourself to just doing dado cuts on that saw, you are missing out. The RAS is way more versatile than that. In fact, properly set up you can do just about anything your table saw can do and, in some cases more. The fence is generally considered sacrificial. Unless you're going to limit yourself to one width of dado cut, you'll son loose the advantage of having the fence supporting both edges of your cut to limit tear out. You mentioned it would range you an hour to replace the fence. It takes me a couple of minutes - including the time taken to cut the replacement. Additionally, being able to change the fence position allows for ripping wider boards - should you decide to do so. Building the saw into a table top lets you handle really long stock with plenty of support on both ends. That feature comes in handy when cutting dados into long boards like the ones I recently used in a floor-to-ceiling built in bookcase. Just saying, you've got yourself a really fine, extremely versatile tool there. Don't limit yourself.
I can see you are just learning but would encourage you to use a sacrificial fence next time as in one of the other comments. On my Craftsman, once your outer table is secured square your fence and inner table are clamped against it with no glue, You simply loosen the clamps and put a new fence in! You will also find that a high fence is somewhat in the way especially if your dado set is smaller and your saw has to drop down. I would also encourage you to exercise better craftsman like procedures as a teacher to those who look to you as a mentor! To set up a saw with that long of a fence and wide of a crosscut with a little itty bitty square against the blade is not good practice. First prove a framing square and then make an actual cut on a piece the approx width of your saws capability and check it with your square 16”x24” framing square! For best practice you could cross cut a 4’ x 16” shelving for example, flip one piece over and butt it against the other and check for straight with a proven straight edge! You show a small square, with a narrow cut and a visual inspection which really doesn’t prove anything other than you like the look of it!
great work, i found my saw at our local market in chesterfield England, i payed 120 pounds for mine, i did not know to be honest, what i was buying, apart from a dodgy start button, i am absolutely amazed at its functions, and yes i need a front table top:)) ty...
Good deal on that saw. I had to settle for a ten inch because I could not find a twelve inch to replace the one that was stolen. The extra power of the twelve inch will be appreciated as you use it on future projects.
Bob-Not really so far, but with a ten inch table saw. there have been a couple of times that I did wish I had that little extra blade depth and the power I had with the twelve incher. But, that being said, I am more than satisfied with the ten inch RA saw.
Very nice start. I like it. I was just hoping you would have made the fence adjustable, by putting T-Tracks into the table bed, and then attach the fence via T-Track thumbs. This way you can adjust the fence at any length you want. Just something extra to think about.
It should be a very good saw. Maybe you'd like to make a torsion box table for it, and put a sacrificial 1/2"MDF. top. You can get most of torsion box materials 'pre-cut' at a big box store - buy some vertical-grain yardsticks for the grid, and some tempered 1/8" or 1/4" hardboard for the skins. Don't forget to level the top, too. Btw, I use my DeWalt 925 for all regular cuts - xcut, rip, miter, bevel, miter-bevel. I use a Wixey digital inclinometer and protractor to set it up. One turn of the elevation knob equals 1/8" of vertical travel. Oh, that's a very aggressive blade on it in the video; try a 12" sliding miter saw blade on it - you might change your mind about what your RAS can do.
Thanks for the advice friend...I will consider that. I have been using my sliding compound miter for so long that it's just second nature, while the RAS is brand new to me, I've never used it before.
I agree with Bob - look for a good miter saw blade for "routine" cuts. Miter and Radial Arm saws have one thing in common - they should both use blades with a "hook angle" of 0 degrees or less (for example, -5 degrees.) They are a lot safer that way. For a wealth of information on tuning a RAS look at used or old book sellers for three books: "Fine Tuning Your Radial Arm Saw" by John Eakes (1987) "Radial Arm Saw Techniques" by Roger W. Cliffe (1986) "The magic of your radial arm saw" by R. J. DeCristoforo (1983) These will show you best practices for aligning it, and examples of what you can do when you are not cutting dadoes. On the web, look for information on the "Mr. Sawdust Table" for the RAS. And when you are on Instructables.com, look through the many excellent contributions of user "Phil B".
There are two adjustments that are critical for safety - 1) When crosscutting- the cutting path of blade must be perfectly parallel to the trackarm. 2.) When ripping, the blade must be parallel to the fence. If the blade not adjusted so, then during crosscutting the teeth on side will will try to rapidly climb the board in an arc, and the teeth on the other side will try to lift the board off the table. When ripping, a blade that is not parallel to the fence will kick back the board, much as a table saw will.
Bob Blarney - ALSO, the plane of the table must be parallel to the blade when the blade is horizontal. This is usually tested by flipping the motor (without the blade) to the horizontal cut position, lowering the arm until the end of the shaft just clears the table, and then verifying that the clearance is the same all over the table. This assures that the depth of cut will be the came everywhere.
Sorry for an ignorant question, no criticism intended: why did you choose to use a 1 x stock for your fence? Instead of a 2 x piece? If a straight, parallel surface is important and often relied on w/radial arm saw cuts, I would think the thicker fence is important. Because you’re using it for the one operation, is that why you chose the one by? I’m trying to learn anything about these is why I ask.
I just came across your video because im thinking of getting a saw like this..but im really interested in your work shop . did you build it ? Do you have a video building it ? Is that a plastic roof?
My original table is 40 years old. Covering the front table with a piece of 1/4" plywood, tacked to the MDF allows it to be replaced every couple of years.
The saw blade is still hitting the fence when pushed all the way back. Move the fence forward 3/4" at least. Also the surface in front of the fence has to be slightly higher than the decking behind the fence for safety. Here's why...when the surface deck is the same height the blade when turned on behind the fence could bite the pdeck surface and make the saw come forward on it's own into your hands, etc.
great saw. i got one 7749 and im trying to figure out how to install its steel legs first and then its complimentary table accesories. i also got the manual but there is no info about its mountage on the base of it. i've been watching some of the pictures i took while dissambled from previous owner but its hard to grasp it really. so far i have its legs set. im thinking on using a rope from the roof to try to accomodate it from the top to the base. the way you moved its saw the first time gave me a close up on its mounting. hopefully i have it done at the end of the day. thanks for the video ⬆ update: yes i got it mounted on its base with the help of a rope lol
I think I beat ya mate, I got two of these bad boys for 25.00 canadian, the guy said they were left there when he bought the house he never used them and didnt want them, so was essentially giving them away. One is a craftsman 9", and onw is a Ryobi 81/4". I do have to replace the tables on both, so thank you so much for the video it will come in helpful, cheers mate.
Check the model number on that Ryobi, there was a recall, years ago, defective motor housing, tries to throw the blade across the room. If the recall is still in effect you can get $100 for the motor.
Great video and explanation of everything you were doing. I just got my first one from a yard sale for $100 also, it also came without a table and fence
I have table saws and radial arm saws. For me, the RAS's are superior and easier to use then the table saws. Both can be great but the more you use the RAS the better it becomes.
I don’t like using a stack dado in the RAS. It wants to climb quite a lot. Also there is enough slop in the arm the dados are not accurate in any plane.
I have never found the tendency to climb any harder to control with a dado stack than with a normal blade. That last bit is completely untrue. The slop is a function of an improperly set up and maintained tool. A radial arm saw is as accurate as it's maintenance. If you treat the saw like crap, don't take the time to set it up properly initially, don't take the time to check it's alignment periodically and try to do more than it's capable of course the accuracy is going to suffer. This is not a fault in radial arm saws though as EVERY major stationary power tool requires the same care to maintain accuracy over time. It is so much easier to make many dados with an RAS than any table saw or router setup. I've used my RAS to make more than a few shelving units and cabinets for my home, shop and the second and third floor apartments of the three family home I own. That's including the long rip cuts in full sheets 3/4" plywood and all the dados and rabbets.
@@robertbamford8266 That's a new problem on me. I've been using one since I was old enough to help my Pépère and Dad and using it properly I've never noticed any particular tenancy for a dado head on a radial arm saw to lift the wood. Hand pressure has always been more than sufficient to keep wood on the table.
LordPadriac I think the problem was with lumber that was not “perfectly” flat. The RAS went straight resulting in varying depth in the dado - as opposed to a router that followed the contour. Downward pressure on a table saw also allows be to compensate for problems with the wood.
Hey, Brother. Saw your video and could not help but to see your thumbnail (and at the end of the video when you put it up on screen). I'm a retired AWC (AW/NAC), flew in P-3s for 20 years ('75 - '95). What was your rating? I'm as amateur-back-patio-woodworker as they come, and if I had the space to get a radial arm saw, I'd be all over it. I have had the opportunity to get similar deals to the one you got, but I just don't have the room. And, I'm certain the wife would throw me out if I were to set it up in the bedroom! (LOL) Speaking of the wife, she's a 23 year retired YNCS (AW), so she outranks me twice! Anyway, love the video, and I will be checking out your other ones. Oh, and keep your thumbs out of harm's way, Shipmate!
Just got a Craftsman 10" RAS. The education yo'all give in the comments is incomparable... until I get the radial arm saw owner's bible: Wally Kunkel's (aka "Mr. Sawdust") "How to Master the Radial Saw". Thanks for all the great info.
Why take the blade off to move it behind the fence, then make the kerf in the fence? Why not turn the saw onand move the blade from front to back? That is the same feed direction as a table saw. Should be safe, I'd guess.
Also, your table top most be parallel to the arm then your blade vertical to the table than your blade perpendicular to the fence. OUT rip is with your blade out and IN rip the blade on the inside (motor out). Bad idea... you should off cut that table in two and place the fence in between. The fence is way too high. Bad idea about cutting the fence for the first time....... no need to take the blade off, just cut it with the blade on going to the back. Be safe and say don't do what i do.
I did rip cuts on my 1968 Montgomery Ward Radial Arm saw for many years before I got a table saw. Would not hesitate to do it again if it was necessary. Just learn the proper procedure.
Strongly Disagree! I have often done rip cuts on the RAS I have owned since the 1970s. (My only alternative is a circular saw which I believe is FAR more dangerous, especially for a left-handed operator.) In all that time, I have had only one kickback. Scary but no personal injury. Make sure the work piece is well supported at infeed and outfeed AND where it overhangs the table. Make sure the splitter and anti-kickback pawls are properly positioned. Make sure the infeed side of the blade guard is properly positioned. Wear appropriate PPE. Check everything. And DO NOT be in a hurry like I was that one time.
I bought my radial arm saw in 1964. Only had to change the bearings on the motor once and the on/off switch.
I also made one new table. It's still going strong. Not bad for 55 years. And I've built countless things with it, including a grandfather clock and the shop it's sitting in.
Back when they made things to last.
Like the idea of cutting out the notch for the shaft. Bought my first RAS and I removed the table. I’ll be rewatching this video for my build
Trying to move and set up a radial arm saw without any help can be a pain... It's heavy and a bit cumbersome to move around... I bought one the other day and I'm now needing to build a table to go under it and a cutting deck for the top of it...
The best dado machine on the planet. You can use the dado with the grain (rip) as well. Beautiful saw. I picked up a 7790 Type 7 12" about a month ago. (1981) Thanks for the apron link below.
Nice video, but I have to disagree with the glued-in fence. Because the fence will get "used" as you cut, it makes sense to clamp it in place from the rear, so it can be replaced when it gets chewed up.
I agree, it does make sense to clamp it...just that as much as I'm using it, it was just easier and less expensive to glue it together than to build a Mr. Sawdust Table, which is the standard. I don't expect to need a new fence for years to come. At that point I probably will build a Mr. Sawdust Table.
If you are cutting angles. However the smart way to cut angles with the radial is to use angle blocks to angle the work not the saw. That way you will always making a straight cut. I never move my saw. One kerf and never had to change my fence. I agree, the table should be two pieces and the fence trapped between. All two owners manuals I have seen have it that way and all it takes is a quick rip from a sheet and seconds to slide the old one out and new one in.
Cool Shop.
Get the Manual !!
Tells you EveryThing on how to do this the Right Way, some of which you are doing a wrong way and losing the precision available..
Just Google:
"manual for Dewalt 7790 radial arm saw" - most are free to download & print.
No reason Not to do miters & bevels - it is made for that with more accuracy than other ways.
Agree with others about not gluing fence. Use the clampings built in. But make better clamps by using Spiral curved cam clamps.
Last - your flip-flip to check square cut - only flip once & keep the cut edges Together. You did a spin that is not right.
You're very clever to figure out how. Please show the Right Way, though.
I have been in the roofing business for over 40 years now. In 1989 we did a residential roof for a lady and as we were finishing the job on a Friday night she asked me if I wanted to buy a radial arm saw from her. I said that would depend on the saw.
She opened the garage door and proceeded to remove 15 coverings from the saw. As we removed the last cover a beautiful 9 inch DeWalt Radial Arm Saw emerged. She said her dad bought it in the 1950's and cut only one board with it and I believed her. The saw looked like it was manufactured that day. Absolutely beautiful.
I asked her what see wanted for it and she said I'll call you this weekend with a price. Sunday afternoon she called and said she wanted $168.00. Yes, $168.00. An odd number for a person to person transaction.
When I arrived she had a box next to the saw with 11 non-carbide blades in it. Along with a DeWalt dado set, a DeWalt sanding attachment, and the original owners manual.
I handed her 3 one hundred dollar bills and told her the saw was worth every penny. Looking back I should have given her more. We loaded up the saw and brought it to my garage. The next day was Monday and very rainy so I tried out my new saw for 4 or 5 hours.
I installed three different Freud crosscut blades on it, one of them an LU85. The saw cut everything perfectly. I only use the saw for 90 and 45 degree cuts and some dado cuts. I don't use it for anything else because it has the original table with the pre-made cuts into it and I want to keep it just like it was in the 1950's. And I have hardly used it the past 30+ years.
Of course I have a beautiful right tilt table saw (that's what I grew up using, right tilts) that I do all my ripping on. I have three miter saws, two with 12 inch capacity that I can do most of my crosscuts on.
All of these saws we are talking about on here are very dangerous and I'm sure all of us commenting know this. I think it's easier to do particular cuts with a certain saw and that's why I have an arsenal of them but it's also what a person gets use to using.
My dad never owned a table saw and did most of his sawing with a radial. He never owned an electric miter saw but he did have a couple of miter boxes. Yes, he was old school.
Mate that was a great story. Hat off to you for giving her extra, a lot of people wouldn't.
In 1950 the saw and all its parts only cost 168.00
My dad bought a sears craftsmen table top saw in 1963 62? I know i was very young like 2 or 3 more like 18 months old i know this because i was walking. Both mom and dad went to buy it and i went with too young to stay home alone.
My dad had that saw when he passed away in 2013.
He built boats with it.
I think my older brother has it now
He got all his tools.
I should have the saw i went with to buy it, he was in school he is 10 years older then me.
Anyway i think the saw was like 89 bucks back then.
I have 3 table saws so I don't need that one one of mine cost 850 in 2002 its now 2k grizzly
The other a Jet cost 1700 not sure now, and the last one i paid 150 for off a airplane service man who got transfered. But he only used one time and paid 350 for it.
But i think he was scared to use it.
I had to drive 150 miles round trip to get it. I bought it for someone else but decided to keep it. He later got one free brand new from his new boss.
O also havec2 ras and i use the ras s lot.
@@bobbg9041 That's right.....that's what the lady told me her dad paid for the saw. $168.00. It's a beauty. My dad had a Sears model also...... bought it in the mid 1960's. After he died all his tools came to me.....but I only have so much room....so I gave his saw to my nephew......I wanted to keep it in the family.
I totally dig the arched plastic covered shop...something that could work for my situation.
it is good...but cold as hell in the winter and an oven in the summer. Most definitely will need heating and cooling friend.
perfect video! thank you. the trick for me now is how to make the radial arm saw table without a table saw.
I just acquired one and this will really help with my set up... thank you
This motivates me to fix up the old Dewalt (green cast iron) that I have sitting in the corner of my garage. Thanks!
Your saw is one of the most precise machines ever made. Google "Mr Sawdust" book. It's the bible on seeing these up for perfection
I just picked up a 2nd hand RAS on the weekend, it has no saw fence or table so this video was very handy, I picked up a lot of info
Not the right way to build a table or fence !!
Great video and valuable information on positioning the fence. Great buy at $100. I got a Craftsman "newer" one (1980) with all the factory recall safety features added in. Old guy took really good care of it and it works very nice. One thing - I would screw the fence into the table so you can replace it if you want to later - it will be a lot easier. Otherwise - fantastic video. Thanks for sharing.
The 7790 is the saw Mr Sawdust used in his shop setup video, he said it was the best one available then. Nice find!
Downward force on the arm to embed the blade for loosening the nut is not advised. This is how saws get sloppy. Use two wrenches and your tool will serve you better longer.
I have this saw, but a 10" size. Mine has an Allen key that fits the end of the spindle. and a wrench that fits the brass nut to lock the blade on.
Two wrenches (one on the nut & one on the shaft) are much better and safer. Rest the end of the one on the shaft on the table, apply force with the other. Remember that it is reverse-threaded.
i picked up one from craigslist about 15 years ago... some guy bought it, used it a few times and his wife wanted the space back in the garage... i use mine almost exclusively for dados for cabinets, and to clean up half laps on 4x4's after using the skillsaw to rough cut a bunch of slashes, and bashing the waste out with a hammer... it's nice to be able to see what you're cutting from the top, rather than having it cut UP from the bottom... but with a sled for the tablesaw and a mitre saw, i don't use the RAS for anything else. last fall i built an 8x8' table for both my table saws - in opposing right hand corners so each has a huge run-off... the RAS is a beast and glad i have it, but personally, i feel much safer doing long cuts on the table.
I just picked up mine for $50 and I'm SUPER happy with it. It saves me a lot of time with dado's and crosscuts depending on the job. I don't rip with it because I already have a good setup on my little table saw, but when I get to bigger projects I might consider it. Anyway, great vid. :)
Someone is giving me my first Radial Arm Saw this weekend. It looks like it is in good shape and well loved.
I was wondering about how to make a better station for it. Your video has been wonderfully helpful and given me some good inspiration.
Thank you so much for posting this!
Matthew Carpenter If you check and adjust everything in the correct order and the table is correct, you will love using it. If not, you may be wanting to sell it soon. Check this video. ruclips.net/video/QKSkZ1vAzNc/видео.html. It will help you. Kevin
Great saw, I have one that I just picked up in a garage sale. I attached my fence with dowel pins and screws to hold it down. The fence gets eaten pretty quickly. There are a couple more adjustments you need to make on the saw. Cutting thru a 2 inch wide board is pretty easy to keep it square....Cut a piece of plywood 12 inches wide and see how the blade tracks over the 12 inch travel. Mine was off almost .025 from the fence to the end of the travel. Also you need to adjust the perpendicularity of the blade to the table. You can adjust this with the three adjustable bearings on the other end of the motor. There is a manual on line you can download and get this information. Took me almost 4 hours to get mine cutting dead nuts on....Im only out about .005 on perpendicularity...
You should move your front fence little more forward with out touching the blades when you resting it back into position with out the blades grabbed the front fence 🙉🙈🙊😯🤥😹🤗🎣🦦🦦🦦
JMHO. By limiting yourself to just doing dado cuts on that saw, you are missing out. The RAS is way more versatile than that. In fact, properly set up you can do just about anything your table saw can do and, in some cases more. The fence is generally considered sacrificial. Unless you're going to limit yourself to one width of dado cut, you'll son loose the advantage of having the fence supporting both edges of your cut to limit tear out. You mentioned it would range you an hour to replace the fence. It takes me a couple of minutes - including the time taken to cut the replacement. Additionally, being able to change the fence position allows for ripping wider boards - should you decide to do so. Building the saw into a table top lets you handle really long stock with plenty of support on both ends. That feature comes in handy when cutting dados into long boards like the ones I recently used in a floor-to-ceiling built in bookcase. Just saying, you've got yourself a really fine, extremely versatile tool there. Don't limit yourself.
Thank you friend...I am learning more and more about this RAS. I does work great for dados. I thing I will build a Mr. Sawdust style table soon.
I can see you are just learning but would encourage you to use a sacrificial fence next time as in one of the other comments. On my Craftsman, once your outer table is secured square your fence and inner table are clamped against it with no glue, You simply loosen the clamps and put a new fence in! You will also find that a high fence is somewhat in the way especially if your dado set is smaller and your saw has to drop down.
I would also encourage you to exercise better craftsman like procedures as a teacher to those who look to you as a mentor! To set up a saw with that long of a fence and wide of a crosscut with a little itty bitty square against the blade is not good practice. First prove a framing square and then make an actual cut on a piece the approx width of your saws capability and check it with your square 16”x24” framing square! For best practice you could cross cut a 4’ x 16” shelving for example, flip one piece over and butt it against the other and check for straight with a proven straight edge!
You show a small square, with a narrow cut and a visual inspection which really doesn’t prove anything other than you like the look of it!
How did you setup your "tent"? I want to do something like this
Looks like a hoophouse/greenhouse.
Very nice video! What apron are you wearing?
I have an Craftsman RA from the 70s that was my grandfather's, and the table definitely needs a replacing.
Handy hint: Blade facing out = Out Rip. Blade facing in = In Rip.
Noticed that too
I’ve got a 1960s curbside salvage DeWalt monster RAS I’m working on replacing the fence on.
great work, i found my saw at our local market in chesterfield England, i payed 120 pounds for mine, i did not know to be honest, what i was buying, apart from a dodgy start button, i am absolutely amazed at its functions, and yes i need a front table top:)) ty...
Good deal on that saw. I had to settle for a ten inch because I could not find a twelve inch to replace the one that was stolen. The extra power of the twelve inch will be appreciated as you use it on future projects.
Yes...I failed to mention in the video...this thing is 3.5 hp...more than enough for me.
I don't think you'll suffer much with a 10" saw.
Bob-Not really so far, but with a ten inch table saw. there have been a couple of times that I did wish I had that little extra blade depth and the power I had with the twelve incher. But, that being said, I am more than satisfied with the ten inch RA saw.
Cool work vest, where did you get that?
Very nice start. I like it. I was just hoping you would have made the fence adjustable, by putting T-Tracks into the table bed, and then attach the fence via T-Track thumbs. This way you can adjust the fence at any length you want. Just something extra to think about.
It should be a very good saw. Maybe you'd like to make a torsion box table for it, and put a sacrificial 1/2"MDF. top. You can get most of torsion box materials 'pre-cut' at a big box store -
buy some vertical-grain yardsticks for the grid, and some tempered 1/8" or 1/4" hardboard for the skins. Don't forget to level the top, too. Btw, I use my DeWalt 925 for all regular cuts - xcut, rip, miter, bevel, miter-bevel. I use a Wixey digital inclinometer and protractor to set it up. One turn of the elevation knob equals 1/8" of vertical travel. Oh, that's a very aggressive blade on it in the video; try a 12" sliding miter saw blade on it - you might change your mind about what your RAS can do.
Thanks for the advice friend...I will consider that. I have been using my sliding compound miter for so long that it's just second nature, while the RAS is brand new to me, I've never used it before.
I agree with Bob - look for a good miter saw blade for "routine" cuts. Miter and Radial Arm saws have one thing in common - they should both use blades with a "hook angle" of 0 degrees or less (for example, -5 degrees.) They are a lot safer that way.
For a wealth of information on tuning a RAS look at used or old book sellers for three books:
"Fine Tuning Your Radial Arm Saw" by John Eakes (1987)
"Radial Arm Saw Techniques" by Roger W. Cliffe (1986)
"The magic of your radial arm saw" by R. J. DeCristoforo (1983)
These will show you best practices for aligning it, and examples of what you can do when you are not cutting dadoes. On the web, look for information on the "Mr. Sawdust Table" for the RAS. And when you are on Instructables.com, look through the many excellent contributions of user "Phil B".
There are two adjustments that are critical for safety - 1) When crosscutting- the cutting path of blade must be perfectly parallel to the trackarm. 2.) When ripping, the blade must be parallel to the fence. If the blade not adjusted so, then during crosscutting the teeth on side will will try to rapidly climb the board in an arc, and the teeth on the other side will try to lift the board off the table. When ripping, a blade that is not parallel to the fence will kick back the board, much as a table saw will.
Bob Blarney - ALSO, the plane of the table must be parallel to the blade when the blade is horizontal. This is usually tested by flipping the motor (without the blade) to the horizontal cut position, lowering the arm until the end of the shaft just clears the table, and then verifying that the clearance is the same all over the table. This assures that the depth of cut will be the came everywhere.
@@GraemePayne1967Marine I also use a feeler guage to measure the distance from the spindal to the table top. This set up is very important.
Sorry for an ignorant question, no criticism intended: why did you choose to use a 1 x stock for your fence? Instead of a 2 x piece? If a straight, parallel surface is important and often relied on w/radial arm saw cuts, I would think the thicker fence is important. Because you’re using it for the one operation, is that why you chose the one by?
I’m trying to learn anything about these is why I ask.
Nice saw, I use to own one very similar. Cheers.
Thx Friend
Nice video. I love my RAS.
I've got to ask. What brand of carpenter's apron is that?
22 Bucks at woodworkers warehouse woodworker.com/16-pocket-bib-apron-canvas-mssu-167-660.asp
@@TheWoodworkingHack Thanks!
I just came across your video because im thinking of getting a saw like this..but im really interested in your work shop . did you build it ? Do you have a video building it ? Is that a plastic roof?
It's a hoophouse/greenhouse.
My original table is 40 years old. Covering the front table with a piece of 1/4" plywood, tacked to the MDF allows it to be replaced every couple of years.
I bought a RAS from a engineer who designed the sidewinder missile, for $25.00 and it was like new but from the 60s
The saw blade is still hitting the fence when pushed all the way back. Move the fence forward 3/4" at least. Also the surface in front of the fence has to be slightly higher than the decking behind the fence for safety. Here's why...when the surface deck is the same height the blade when turned on behind the fence could bite the pdeck surface and make the saw come forward on it's own into your hands, etc.
great saw. i got one 7749 and im trying to figure out how to install its steel legs first and then its complimentary table accesories. i also got the manual but there is no info about its mountage on the base of it. i've been watching some of the pictures i took while dissambled from previous owner but its hard to grasp it really. so far i have its legs set. im thinking on using a rope from the roof to try to accomodate it from the top to the base.
the way you moved its saw the first time gave me a close up on its mounting. hopefully i have it done at the end of the
day. thanks for the video ⬆
update: yes i got it mounted on its base with the help of a rope lol
Roughly how old is that saw?
I believe the saw is approximately 30 years old
@@TheWoodworkingHack You have a nice saw there.
Why did you take the blade off. Just start the saw and push it through.
Usually the fence is three quarters to one inch high.
Or just raise the arm. You know you can adjust the height of the arm above the table right?
Bad idea to glue fence in. Cut a long strip about 2" wide and clamp it in using the clamping feature built into the saw.
I think I beat ya mate, I got two of these bad boys for 25.00 canadian, the guy said they were left there when he bought the house he never used them and didnt want them, so was essentially giving them away. One is a craftsman 9", and onw is a Ryobi 81/4". I do have to replace the tables on both, so thank you so much for the video it will come in helpful, cheers mate.
Sweet score friend!
Check the model number on that Ryobi, there was a recall, years ago, defective motor housing, tries to throw the blade across the room. If the recall is still in effect you can get $100 for the motor.
There is a recall on the ryobi 8" saws check your model number i beleive the plastic housing was flying apart and cutting off fingers or something....
Great video and explanation of everything you were doing. I just got my first one from a yard sale for $100 also, it also came without a table and fence
I have table saws and radial arm saws. For me, the RAS's are superior and easier to use then the table saws. Both can be great but the more you use the RAS the better it becomes.
Are you using standard plywood 3/4?
PLEASE GIVE ME TOUR IN AND OUT OF YOUR WOOD WORKING TENT OR TUNNEL I NEED TO GET SOMETHING LIKE IT
There are lots of videos for setup radial arm saw.
Proper setups to boot, not like this Guy.
I got a craftsman 10 inch good top forester blade 65 bucks has wheels on it
Has the upgrade safety on it too
Nice, but I wouldn't have glued the backing board in.
Got mine at an auction for $1 bill, best money spent, I just need to figure out how to set it up
The fence gets cut up and is constantly being consumed. It should be easily adjustable and replaceable.
I don’t like using a stack dado in the RAS. It wants to climb quite a lot. Also there is enough slop in the arm the dados are not accurate in any plane.
I have never found the tendency to climb any harder to control with a dado stack than with a normal blade.
That last bit is completely untrue. The slop is a function of an improperly set up and maintained tool. A radial arm saw is as accurate as it's maintenance. If you treat the saw like crap, don't take the time to set it up properly initially, don't take the time to check it's alignment periodically and try to do more than it's capable of course the accuracy is going to suffer. This is not a fault in radial arm saws though as EVERY major stationary power tool requires the same care to maintain accuracy over time.
It is so much easier to make many dados with an RAS than any table saw or router setup. I've used my RAS to make more than a few shelving units and cabinets for my home, shop and the second and third floor apartments of the three family home I own. That's including the long rip cuts in full sheets 3/4" plywood and all the dados and rabbets.
Arm slop would be a problem with a particular saw. The problem I have had (and why I don’t use a dado in my 1970s Craftsman) is holding the wood down.
@@robertbamford8266 That's a new problem on me. I've been using one since I was old enough to help my Pépère and Dad and using it properly I've never noticed any particular tenancy for a dado head on a radial arm saw to lift the wood. Hand pressure has always been more than sufficient to keep wood on the table.
LordPadriac I think the problem was with lumber that was not “perfectly” flat. The RAS went straight resulting in varying depth in the dado - as opposed to a router that followed the contour. Downward pressure on a table saw also allows be to compensate for problems with the wood.
OK, gracias por sus vídeos, thanks for your videos
advice; do the test 90º to 5 cuts
J.M.Castilla@2018
What up Chief
What's going on Shipmate?
Hey, Brother. Saw your video and could not help but to see your thumbnail (and at the end of the video when you put it up on screen). I'm a retired AWC (AW/NAC), flew in P-3s for 20 years ('75 - '95). What was your rating? I'm as amateur-back-patio-woodworker as they come, and if I had the space to get a radial arm saw, I'd be all over it. I have had the opportunity to get similar deals to the one you got, but I just don't have the room. And, I'm certain the wife would throw me out if I were to set it up in the bedroom! (LOL) Speaking of the wife, she's a 23 year retired YNCS (AW), so she outranks me twice! Anyway, love the video, and I will be checking out your other ones. Oh, and keep your thumbs out of harm's way, Shipmate!
That was pretty square to start with. Setting one up out of the box is more complicated.
Look up Mr. Sawdust. Lots of tips and tricks.
I did. He's the best. Next RAS video, I'll probably build one of his table/ fence.
Edward Douglas it was a great video. It’s nice to see other ways of doing the same thing. I tend to over complicate things. HAHA 🤣 Thanks again.
Just got a Craftsman 10" RAS. The education yo'all give in the comments is incomparable... until I get the radial arm saw owner's bible: Wally Kunkel's (aka "Mr. Sawdust") "How to Master the Radial Saw". Thanks for all the great info.
Got mine for $60.00. It’s a Craftsman
Why take the blade off to move it behind the fence, then make the kerf in the fence? Why not turn the saw onand move the blade from front to back? That is the same feed direction as a table saw. Should be safe, I'd guess.
Youd be guessing right my friend.some of us woodsters are quirkyier than others.keep the splinters flying .with safety glasses on.
Umm yah to get the most out of your saw don't glue the backrest to the table. There is other methods to make this tool the most useful in a shop.
Also, your table top most be parallel to the arm then your blade vertical to the table than your blade perpendicular to the fence. OUT rip is with your blade out and IN rip the blade on the inside (motor out). Bad idea... you should off cut that table in two and place the fence in between. The fence is way too high. Bad idea about cutting the fence for the first time....... no need to take the blade off, just cut it with the blade on going to the back. Be safe and say don't do what i do.
Never, ever, do a rip cut on the radial arm saw, it's way too dangerous. Cross cuts only. You have a Table saw that does a better job!
Yeah I don't plan on it
And if you don't have a table saw rip cuts are easy and accurate if done correctly. Plenty advise on the interweb.
Thanks friend
I did rip cuts on my 1968 Montgomery Ward Radial Arm saw for many years before I got a table saw. Would not hesitate to do it again if it was necessary. Just learn the proper procedure.
Strongly Disagree! I have often done rip cuts on the RAS I have owned since the 1970s.
(My only alternative is a circular saw which I believe is FAR more dangerous, especially for a left-handed operator.)
In all that time, I have had only one kickback. Scary but no personal injury. Make sure the work piece is well supported at infeed and outfeed AND where it overhangs the table. Make sure the splitter and anti-kickback pawls are properly positioned. Make sure the infeed side of the blade guard is properly positioned. Wear appropriate PPE. Check everything. And DO NOT be in a hurry like I was that one time.