Hi Brian, can you email me at contact@seadreamerproject.com I would like to use content in this video for a video on my channel restoring two of these style saws. Of course I will not do so without permission but there is no way I can do a better more concise calibration video.
My saw is a Dewalt DW111 It has no formal way of adjust ing heel and tilt. So what I do is to take a piece of 3/8 ply, about 8 in square, drill a hole in the middle, and mount it in place of the blade. Then lower it until it doesn't quite touch the carefully levelled table, and pucsh the carriage back so that it just doesn't touch the fence. A set square placed against the fence will tell you the fore and aft heel very easily, and when vertical will tell you the vertical alignment.
Brian Weekley the key is to get the arm at right angles to the fence. My horizontal heel was then adjusted by loosening the plunger lock on the carriage - there's just enough play.
Brian, I think its also important to mention as a general comment that no matter how much you adjust a RAS if the bearings are worn no amount of adjustment will help. There are many companies out there that sell replacement bearings for these saws. For less than $30 you can buy all 4 new carrier bearings. Also, cleaning the track with #0000 steel wool to remove any built up wood an saw dust is a good idea too.
Thanks for the comment. Cleaning the track is always a good idea. In contrast to motor bearings turning at 1000's of rpms, the carriage bearings hardly move and it's extremely rare that they actually wear out. They can get caked in sawdust or the grease simply dries out making them hard to turn. However, they can usually be rejuvenated with penetration oil and re-soaked in machine oil to lubricate. For many of the DeWalt saws, the carriage bearings are no longer available due to their curved shape and can often be very expensive to replace (if you can find them).
After 10 years or so my 1030 is out slightly. The Mr sawdust table has dropped a 32nd on one end, or the other end has raised? Either way this saw hasn't needed any adjustment for this time period. I'm gonna start over from the beginning and see what the results are. It still cuts sq but over the length of a full cut close to 15'' or 16'', it's out 128 of an Inch, I can get it almost perfect. Thanks for posting.
Kudos to you, Brian, as several others have said. You have the best format of demonstrating any process I’ve found on any subject. It’s totally easy to glean the information I need, without the clutter of useless verbosity and an annoying background track. Your printed caption screens are all the info necessary for the technique you are about to present, and your visual demos are worth a million words of describing them. You also show an abundance of closeup views so we can see exactly what you are doing. If there was an award for Effective and Efficient How-to Video, you would win without even a close second place, except maybe another one of your own! Now, I would like to ask for some more detail: at 4:15 of this table alignment lesson, you are paralleling the table to the swing of the arm by checking the downward point of the arbor with a sheet of paper as a feeler gauge, and adjusting the leveling nuts located between the table and the saw base. Neither my DeWalt nor my Craftsman RAS have leveling nuts. Are these a feature of the Mr. Sawdust table? The angle brackets attaching the table to the base of my saws are woefully inferior to your leveling nuts. I have to trial-and-error (mostly error) this adjustment by loosening the mounting bolts and bumping the table up or down, then tightening again and rechecking. The frustration of over- and under-doing this is monumental. Further, your closeup appears to show a steel bar attached to the table that transfers this. Is that a 1/2” bar? It seems to me to need that kind of heft; anything thinner would be pretty wimpy, subject to bowing. Finally, is this bar mounted to the table oriented front to back, or crosswise across the front (and the other at the rear of the table)? Thanks in advance for answering, and I look forward to more! Matt
Matthias Breithaupt Thank you very much for the kind words! I really try hard to present information directly and use as few words as possible. Recently, I’ve been narrating my videos with voice instead of text, but aim for the same succinct style. The older DeWalt saws used the table mounting and adjustment system shown in this video. Unfortunately, the mounting system was changed on the newer saws to use angle brackets attached to the side of the base as you describe. Your angle brackets are easier to tighten since you can easily reach the nuts from the outside compared to mine where you need access underneath or from behind to reach the locking nuts. However, I agree the studs and nuts used on the older saws are much easier to level! The angle brackets can be extremely difficult and frustrating to adjust. I suggest loosening only one nut at a time (the lowest corner), use a pry bar to slightly raise the table up at that corner, then re-tighten the nut. It’s a slow, trial and error process until you get it right (close enough)! I have another video titled “Radial Arm Saw: Tables and Fences (Part 2)”. In it, you can see how I made my “Mr. Sawdust” table and shows the original style table mounting bars. The bars are about 1/4 inch thick x 5/8 inch wide that run front to back the same as the angle brackets-both have the thumbscrews attached
Thank you Brian, for the detailed reply. The little guys in the back of my mind were afraid that the table leveling mech was a built-in feature of the old machines. I totally concur that the side nuts on the angle brackets are a pain in the patoonka to adjust to acceptable tolerance. After seeing your vid and a couple other alignment tutorials that brought up the adjusting nuts (but yours had the added benefit of a closeup shot ~ thanks again!) I tried to wrap my head around a vision of adding a leveling mechanism to my current table and eventually a Mr. Sawdust table I’m gonna build. So to that end, would you have a design idea for adding leveling bolts and jam nuts to either the angle brackets or the saw base itself, employing a steel bar in turn attached to the table? I’m trying to envision how it would function and sketch out some details ... Thanks!
Matthias Breithaupt I think it would be very easy to do. Bolt another angle iron bracket to the base below the existing angle bracket that’s screwed to the table, then add four countersunk bolts in your new Mr Sawdust table (drilled through your existing bracket). These studs could then go into the new bracket and adjusted/secured with lock nuts. If you go to “About” on my main RUclips page, you should be able to send me a direct email. I’d be happy to send you a drawing.
Brian Weekley thank you for what I consider a personal invitation. I snooped around on your Home page and I see a WWII aircraft show, which is over the moon cool!!! Is that you with your hands on the gun? I’m guessing here: was your father a WWII air war veteran? Mine was Infantry, D-Day landing and Patton’s drive across France. However, I don’t see a link to your private email. I think I’m able to visualize your suggestion of a second angle bracket. Previously, I was trying to envision attaching a bar to the bottom of the table, not the side of the base. But I would also love to pick your brain some more and talk some shop with another who loves making sawdust! That’ll also give me a chance to ask what scientific field you research, and what kind of projects you’ve tackled over the years. And respond in turn if you’re interested; for starters, my entire shop was built around the centerpiece of my DeWalt RAS. I’ve never owned a table saw.
@@matthiasbreithaupt1391 Don't know why the email is not showing up (I see it on my desktop computer, but not on my phone or ipad RUclips apps)? Send me an email here and I'll send you the sketch of what I was thinking of: weekleybs80@gmail.com I have uncles that were in WWII, but my dad (the youngest) was part of the occupation force after the war. I've always been a plane nut though. Science-wise, I'm an analytical chemist in the pharma industry.
You hit it out of the park, Brian! We've needed this a long time. Perhaps a little more about the column adjustment, showing the difference between the adjustment of the outer column and the adjustment against the gib would be helpful. But still, a very informative and helpful video that takes the newbie and veteran a long way toward success.
Thanks Why the Craftsman isn't exactly like this its very similar the Idea of using a dial indicator to level the table never occured to me and craftsmen manul didn't suggest it I'm going to take this information and readjust my saw and probably make it work even better then is does now. its not bad but its close, I want it closer and this helps me get it to that point. I guess you could use a digital high ga or comparator as well as a dial indicator and get decent results Now to figure out a way to attach the dial indicator to the motor frame First I think I'll sand the table and fill the kerf cut with sawdust and glue its MDF anyway.
Thanks. You should be able to do something very similar with the Craftsman and a well adjusted machine is a joy to use. BTW, automotive body filler like Bondo works great to fill in kerfs in the table.
Brian, thanks for the guidance and great videos. As per your suggestion I found and old 1030 that has not moved for 100 years. The bearings on the motor in the arm barely turn and all else follows. The detent pin in the front of the motor does not want to pull out. Lots of WD40 and still no action. I was thinking turning a nut onto the threads and turning it might break it loose but I am fearful to strip the treads. Any ideas?? I pulled the motor from arm and am currently using gravity to penetrate the chamber where the pin is stuck. Thanks!!
Use PB Blaster instead of WD40. Remove the plastic knob (it will easily strip). Screw a nut onto the stud and then you can pull on it with pliers (without damaging the threads). However, the best way to clean everything up is to disassemble the yoke so all parts can be cleaned/polished. Warning! To disassemble the yoke, you need to remove the dog point screw (hidden and hard to miss). Use heat and penetration fluid first. Note that if the dog point screw breaks, it’s nearly impossible to remove. I suggest researching on the DeWalt RAS Forum before you attempt to completely disassemble the yoke. The grease in the roller head yoke bearings are just dried out or caked with sawdust. They can easily be refurbished with some PB Blaster and spinning them. The 1030 is a very desirable model. Good luck!
The DeWalt RAS is a great machine. Check out my other videos-several may be useful for setup and use. I highly recommend buying a copy of the book “How to Master the Radial Arm Saw” by Wally Kunkel. Definitely worth the price!
Years later your video is still doing what you intended in the beginning, helping to keep the RAS accurate and safe for the many of us that know what a great tool the RAS is, Ty!
As you should--those old cast iron DeWalts are great! LOL Check out the "DeWalt" Radial Arm Saw Forum. Although it's mostly DeWalt users, all are welcome and it's a great resource for all things RAS related.
Yeah I'm not nearly as impressed with my Craftsman now as I am with Dewalt. The Craftsman one I have has zero adjustable. I was able to slot the bearing holes for the saw carriage and push them out in the arm. The arm still won't adjust true and I pretty much just set my fence to the saw because I can't adjust the saw. Nice saw though. 2 and 3 quarter horse power.
I think your old DeWalt is a FAR better built rig than my 1972-ish Craftsman. The idea of “dialing in” that thing is laughable- it would need to be repeated after every cut LOL.
excelent video, it has shown how much is involved to make these wonderful tools efective. it also shows why ras has gone out of favor.if these setup steps are not followedthe saw is VERY dangerous, especially when used for ripping. i would expect to spend 2-3 hrs on first setup and 1/2 to 3/4 on rechecks every couplle months. if people r not willing to do this then buy a miter saw instead
Thank you. I don't believe the RAS is as dangerous as people make it out to be. The problem mainly stems from people using the wrong blade on the saw, which makes it more susceptible to climb or kickback during ripping (e.g., a "rip" blade has too few teeth to safely rip on a RAS).
@@brianweekley5700 hello, actually more than the choice of blade is alignment. Kickback occurs when the peice is pinched between blade and fence. The use of the revving knife helps especially if the workpiece is warped.make sure the lift mechanism is snug. Hope u get many years of use
Hallo Brian, dein Video hat mir sehr gut gefallen, bensonders von deiner Maschine bin ich beeindruckt. Welches Modell ist es? Habe bei Ebay Kleinanzeigen geguckt aber leider nichts gefunden. Dein Modell wäre ich interessiert . Vielen Dank für dein sehr informatives Video und Erklärungen. Beste Grüße vom Daniel aus Oberhausen in Deutschland
Thank you. My saw is a DeWalt MBF. However, it has a larger motor originally from a DeWalt 925 (a combination of two saws). ruclips.net/video/FN8nawcodjA/видео.htmlsi=U_K--LCCdhAH0Zfc
@@brianweekley5700Thank you very much for your quick reply. It is a pity that such a great machine is not available in Germany. Looking forward to your other videos on your channel.
Absolutely! However, it needs to be the Woodworker I (TCP) blade (not to be confused with the Woodworker I (ATB) blade). This particular Forrest blade (known as the “Mr. Sawdust” blade) is only available through Sliversmill or special ordered directly from Forrest (it’s not shown on their website). This, and the Freud LU83 are the only general purpose blades I use on my RAS--good for all operations (besides my dado blade). I strongly recommend joining the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum--a great resource about all things RAS!
I have been searching for the MBF model to purchase and restore. Any advice on resources other than E Bay and Facebook Marketplace for finding this gem? Great job on the saw. I am envious of your ability and the outcome. Congratulations??
Thanks. Craigslist and FB Marketplace are the best sources for me. The 925 is actually a little better (has a better motor than the MBF and also has a brake). Both are 9” saws, but work best with an 8” blade. The GWI and the 1030 are larger, 10” saws and very desirable with 1-1/2 hp motors. Good luck!
Excellent information. I remember learning to use a radial arm saw in the late 1950's. My Dad bought a DeWalt in 1956. I mostly did crosscuts and ripping with it back then. I was only 7 years old and probably shouldn't have been using it but I was forbidden from setting up the table saw on his ShopSmith. I had a tremendous fear (respect) of power saws so.... I still have all 10 fingers.
That cut and flip at the end to test the alignment was brilliant. I will start with that. Similar model and I had no idea how to tilt the blade until I saw you do it. Saw was given to me and all of my cuts with it are slightly off. It drives me nuts. Now I know how to calibrate and look forward to the project. THANK YOU
Thank you-glad the video is useful. If you take the time to set it up, it should serve you well. Consider joining the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum-an excellent resource for RAS questions and tips.
Thank you for putting this together. Relatively new to these amazing saws here. I have a GWI in my garage awaiting cleanup and service. The delphi forum is fantastic, but videos are just so helpful.
@@brianweekley5700 Extremely useful. The only way it could have been "better" for me was if you owned the same saw that I do so the calibration/disassembly steps were exactly the same. I've adopted your fence tips BTW and many thanks go to you for those.👍
Nice work. I only wish my table was as easy to adjust (I have a craftsman saw). The leveling process for that one is so much more complicated, and it goes out of whack easily.
Thanks. I really like the table adjustment on the old DeWalts, but the newer ones use angle brackets similar to your Craftsman. Consider joining the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum. Lots of great information, tips, and RAS discussion. They welcome all RAS users, even if you have a Craftsman!
I was given a vintage DeWalt radial Arm Saw a few days ago. Has been sitting outside for years, and of course it's all rusty & dirty. I'm in the process of cleaning it up, but a little unsure how to tear it down. You answered all my questions. Great Video! Thank you.
You did an excellent job of producing this video Mr. Weekly, and I greatly appreciate you putting it out here to share with everyone. It was well thought out, straight forward, and thoughtfully planned out. Also, it definitely appears that you take excellent care of your equipment...it shows. IMO, you have one of the best saws anyone could own for home use. What is the particular year and model of your DeWalt? I'm very much interested in trying to attain one for my shop. Thanks Mr. Weekly...keep 'em coming!
Thank you very much. The saw shown is a 1957 DeWalt MBF (with a little larger motor). I have another video that gives more details on that saw (Restoration of Vintage Radial Arm Saw: '57 DeWalt MBF).
Thanks. Those are great saws. I have a 1030 (round arm) too. You can get a glimpse of it sitting back in the corner at 4:13 in this video. That’s a future restoration project waiting in the wings.
Excellent ! It's one thing to read about it and another to see it done. I need to do the setup on my newly-acquired model GP Portable 12-inch from around 1945. I did the head bearings adjustment but need to make a table and fence to do everything else. Can't wait to try this saw out. I've never used an RAS before. Regards, Jeff
Congrats- the GP is a heavy duty and capable saw. Consider joining the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum. You’ll find it to be a great resource for your new saw and a lot of helpful people who can answer any questions.
Dear Brian, This is so incredibly helpful, thank you very much indeed for going to the trouble of explaining setup far better than the DeWalt manual. I am a British owner of a 1960s US model DeWalt living in Japan. The machine was discarded by my work's workshop about 20 years ago and so I liberated it, replaced the motor bearings and generally rejuvenated it back into working condition. While I have been using it successfully for all this time I did really need to finally and finely set it up properly. Your instructions and general explanation are superb ! Best wishes from the wild mountains of central Japan.
Thank you very much. What an interesting story-it’s amazing where these saws end up. I’m sure you will enjoy the saw even more after alignment. Enjoy Japan-a country I’d love to visit someday.
I purchased a Dewalt MBF210 a few months ago on Craigslist. I am now installing in my workshop. I am having a lot of trouble with finding the correct hardware for the leveling bars....any suggestions?
Sorry, I need more info. I'm not clear if you have the two table mounting bars with the thumbscrews? You probably need to make a new table for the saw. The thickness of the saw will dictate the length of mounting screws you will need. First, I strongly suggest joining the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum--there's lots of good info in the FAQs. Also, it would be extremely helpful to order a copy of the book "How to Master the Radial Arm Saw" by Wally Kunkel, which describes how to make a proper table for it. Finally, I have two other videos that help explain how the table is made and location for mounting (Radial Arm Saw: Tables and Fences (Part 1 and 2).
Brian Weekley s I have the table mounting bars but not the hardware that acts as the leveling component......i will build a new tabletop in fact I have the Mr. Sawdust book coming. My concern is I don’t have the leveling ‘screws’ (?) needed for the fine adjustment of the table......
@@billtorrico7574 I bought all of my hardware (screws, washers, and jam nuts) from McMaster-Carr. Double check, but I think the thread size is 5/16-18. If so, what I bought was 1-1/4 and 2-1/2 inch long screws (91772A625 and 91772A634), washers (92141A030), and jam nuts (91847A030). Behind the fence, there would be some 5/16-18 allen screws, but I used the ones I already had. Hope that helps.
BTW, these are shown in my video "Radial Arm Saw: Tables and Fences (Part 2) at 3 min and 30 sec. For an MBF with two mounting rails, you would need 4 long and 4 short screws. All 8 screws secure the table to the mounting rails, but the 4 long screws that extend past the table are used to mount and adjust the table to the base.
Brian Weekley this is amazing information thank you very much! By thee way.....is there an inclusive parts list somewhere you have stumbled upon?? Like replacement yoke bearings or possibly the locking mechanism for raising/lowering the unit?
After watching this instruction video, I immediately subscribed. Thank you so much. I have a Rockwell 12-RAS but many of the points of adjustment are the same and as soon as I get this beast down to the basement, I'll be making the table and setting up the saw just as you did.
mattt97 You can buy inexpensive dial indicators or dial test indicators that are good enough for the job on eBay or at Harbor Freight for $10-15 USD. If you also buy a magnetic base/stand for it, you can use the dial indicator to adjust the vertical and horizontal heel (instead of the dowel jig that I showed). In that case, place a blade on the table so you have something for the magnet to stick to.
@@brianweekley5700 Definitely second the recommendation of a dial indicator. Well worth it if the saw has not been too beat up. That's how I know that some RAS's can't be made accurate. All of them will run and cross cut just fine, but anything precise can be frustrating to achieve unless you get a good vintage DeWalt, Delta/Rockwell, Delta/Milwaukee, etc.
Brian, thank you for putting this video together. Liked & subscribed. I don't have a DeWalt, I have an old Delta/Rockwell - but all your steps / things to check are there. Greatly appreciate this, and the style of the video. I tried putting it on closed captioning so I could watch it while my daughter fell asleep drinking a bottle and was bummed that I couldn't.. then I realized you caption for us. :)
Sorry, I can’t tell if you are serious or being sarcastic, but I will not circumvent the order of natural selection. Otherwise, I’d simply have to just state in all of my videos “Do not use any tools; you may be harmed or killed doing so”.
Great vid. I have a couple RASaws which I am almost done building new homes for in my shop. Hoping to finish up & calibrate them both this wknd. Just wondering if you feel it’s important to complete each of the alignment steps in the same order you show them in your vid? Or are the steps not contingent on each other in order to successfully get them dialed
Thank you. Yes, for the most part, the order of calibration is important. For example, you want to make sure there’s no slop in the arm bearings before you begin and the table must be level before adjusting the bevel. Horizontal heal must be done before vertical heal. I’ve tried to layout the process in a logical order to minimize the effect of one adjustment on another-especially when setting the saw up for the first time. Later, you may find that a single adjustment tweak may be needed (e.g., miter or bevel adjustment). Good luck with your saws!
Very well done. the use of the dial gauge is a good idea. I will try to use it on the other adjustments as well. One thing you missed and no body else talks about this either and that is the fence. Before you do any adjustments on the saw make sure the fence is perfectly straight. I bought my RAS brand new in 1972 It is a Black and Decker. I was surprized to see your DeWalt adjustment was almost the same. The first project I built was a stair from the main floor to the basement. When I put it in place one stringer was 3" off the floor. I went back and checked all the adjustments but could not fine anything wrong. I tried to make a picture frame but the corners never matched up. I found an after market book that provided very detailed instructions. I readjusted the saw again using the new book. The picture frame still did not work out. It was not until I replaced the table that I found out that the original table had a slight curve that bent the fence when it was locked in place. Everything I cut now is perfect.
Thank you. You certainly can use the dial gauge to adjust the vertical and horizontal heel and I’ve done that too. Just make sure you measure at the same point of the blade at both ends of travel. It’s easy to be complacent and just pull the blade across the dial gauge, but blades are rarely flat all the way across. Here, I decided to use the dowel on a tooth to get the widest range of travel. Certainly, the edges of the table(s) need to be straight and the fence will conform to that when clamped. I have another video that shows how I make my tables: ruclips.net/video/_e5yQC_i7mI/видео.html Attention to detail is required to achieve good results with a RAS. That’s why I like them! Maybe that’s why so many people are quick to dismiss the RAS-they’re either too lazy or unwilling to learn how to use them properly?
A “12” Craftsman” is not a specific model. I know some 12” Craftsman saws were actually DeWalts that were rebranded (i.e., DeWalt 790/7790). If you happen to have one of those, it’s definitely a good one. Otherwise, I can’t help with the other Craftsman models (e.g., Emerson, etc...). Look up the “DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum”-some members also have Craftsman’s and might be able to help you.
Hi Brian, I've greatly enjoyed watching your videos. They've been very informative and interesting. I'm actually going to be getting my first RAS in a couple weeks (and I'm very excited!). I was hoping to ask, what kind of blade do you use? It seems most people recommend a blade with a negative hook angle, but it doesn't look like you can get a combination blade with a negative hook. But most RAS's I see online appear to be fitted with a positive hook blade anyway. I would want to get a blade that's good for both cross-cutting and ripping. Thanks again for the great content. :)
Thank you. I strongly suggest joining the “DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum”. It’s a great resource for information, techniques, safety, questions, etc. about the radial arm saw. There are only two blades that are highly recommended by our forum and proven tested by our members for many years: (1) Freud LU83 and (2) Forrest Woodworker I TCG (not to be confused with the Woodworker I (ATB) blade). This particular Forrest blade (known as the “Mr. Sawdust” blade) is only available through Sliversmill or special ordered directly from Forrest (it’s not shown on their website). Despite what you often hear, both of these blades have positive hook angles and work extremely well in all cutting positions (crosscut, ripping, miters, etc.).
For many years I was a Tool and Cutter Grinder in a large machine shop. While there, I learned to appreciate the better examples of machine tools. That's why I got myself a nice old De Walt MBF (the 9") years ago. It's small, but every bit as well made as the Cincinnati centerless or a Kellenberger cylindrical grinder or any of the better machines in any machine shop. They were made in the Golden Age of American machine tool manufacturing and with proper calibration and treatment, will outlast us all. In the mid 1960's, the corporate view changed to profits over quality and the rest is history. The bigger commercial machines remained well built but the consumer grade tools... well, if you got a good one, then great, but many are just sitting gathering dust because they simply cannot be made accurate.
Absolutely true! I’ve watched many of your canoe sail rig videos and remember seeing a DeWalt RAS in your shop in one of them. I have a Grumman and have considered making a sail rig for it. Love the outriggers you made for yours.
@@brianweekley5700 There's a lot of mutual admiration, then. If you ever get that itch, I have a photo montage of the pontoon build process that might help formulate some ideas.
I'm a new subscriber. I loved your video, no long winded talking, no music in the background and no kid racing through the shop on their skate boards. A long time ago, about twenty years, I bought a radial arm saw then a year later bought a table saw. I read up on the radial arm saw and discovered there were many dangers in owning one. At the time, my son was just starting his wood shop so i gave him the radial arm saw. Time has past and I went to my son's house for one reason or another. I happened to see my old Radial arm saw laying on its side under his bench. I read some more on the saw and discovered if properly set up and used, it was equal to the table saw. My son didn't want the radial arm saw sine he never used it so I asked if I could have it back. Now that I've seen your video, i'm going to use what I learned set up my "new" saw. It's got less then a hundred hours on it so it should be easy to set up. Thank You SO much.
Thank you. Note that not all RAS's are created equal. If you have a quality RAS like an old cast iron DeWalt, set it up correctly, and learn how to use it properly, it will serve you very well! Good luck with yours.
Congrats! The GWI is an excellent and desirable DeWalt model. Consider joining the “DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum” . It’s a great place to get information if you’re new to the RAS.
I just signed up yesterday. I'm hoping to track down an anti-kickback pawl, a wrench set and maybe a planer attachment. I found your video link on the site there.
Having an old RAS, I was think of making a jig to do box joints, running the dado in the normal saw blade position, having a stop on the arm and then tilting the work table jig up to square the cut, using a finger and fence that lifts with the jigs table. Would this work?
I'm not totally clear what you are proposing. If you search for "Box Joints (Finger Joints) with a Radial Arm Saw", I have a RUclips video that shows how I make box joints with the RAS.
@@brianweekley5700 Your jig cuts parallel to the table and uses blocks to lower/raise the cut. What I would like to do is cut perpendicular (normal cross cut) and then lift the work so the blade can cut the full depth of the finger. If you simple pull the dado blade forward you will be left with a tilted cut, now pivot the work up to square it off. Think of a hinged drafting table that can change angle, Placing the work under the blade and then lifting the work to square the cut instead of advancing the blade.
Robert Pendzick It could work if you are working on tiny boxes and I’d love to see an example. I just think the technique would be very limited due to the height you can raise the blade above the table.
Though it ain't much to brag about, in exchange for teaching a co-worker how to use an old Craftsman lathe he inherited from his grandfather and for restoring the haggard edges of several of his grandfather's lathe tools, the fella gave me a 9 inch 113 series Craftsman RAS that he picked up from a barn sale and never fussed with. I'm writing this while using my backside and an 80# cast iron intake manifold (1967 Ford Galaxie 390FE that now has an aluminum Edelbrock) to aid the glue-up of a dual (3/4"x2)-layered 2'x4'x1-1/2" MDF table top with three 1/4"x1" flat bars. The table frame is rock solid and essentially done. I'll be attaching a 1/2" sheet of MDF as my sacrificial top and begin adjusting the saw tomorrow. Much thanks for a very clearly presented video...oh and by the way I'm 35...so these RAS gems have some measurable future. I'd love to get my hands on an Original Saw one of these days
Glad the videos are helpful. Those are some heavy duty steel bars (we typically use 1/8 x 3/4 inch). If you want, a 1/4 inch sacrificial top also works fine and are meant to be disposable. You can also refill the kerfs with bondo when you need a fresh top. Absolutely, keep your eye out for a vintage cast iron DeWalt or Original Saw!
@@brianweekley5700 how do you affix the sacrificial top to the table? I'm guessing screws placed strategically so as to not interfere along typical cutting angles like 45, 30, 22-1/2 etc. As far as a DeWalt or original saw...well it'll have to wait...I don't make nearly enough income to drop a few thousand dollars on a vintage saw regardless of how much I'd love to have one. Because of the internet, people know what they have and how much they should be asking so the negotiating lee-way is not what it used to be.
Vernon James I just use pin nails strategically placed. I also use a sharpie to mark their locations so they are easily visible. It’s very easy to pull the top off and use pliers to pull out the nails when you replace the top. I really think this is faster and easier then using screws. Besides, you’ll never be able to get the screws back in the same holes with a new top. Have you seen my videos on building tables? Check out 5:40 in this video: ruclips.net/video/_e5yQC_i7mI/видео.html When I work with angles other than 90 or 45, I just lay down a scrap piece of MDF on the table since I don’t like to have all kinds of angles permanently cut into my top. You can easily find good, vintage, cast iron DeWalt saws in the $50 to 150 range. You would be surprised how many people don’t want radial arm saws any more.
@@brianweekley5700 looking in my area (Beloit, Janesville, Madison Wisconsin and Chicagoland, $150-200 gets you a 10in Craftsman - saw a DeWalt from the 60s for $50 but looked like the exact same sheet metal/aluminum construction as Craftsman. Then I saw a cast iron DeWalt 14" for $1,400...
Vernon James Try Facebook Marketplace. I just took a look in the Madison/Wisconsin area and saw a GW for $25 and MBFs (like mine in this video) in the $50 to 200 range. They are out there-especially if you don’t mind refurbishing them. They are built so much better than most of the Craftsman’s. Note that there were one or two DeWalt models that were badges as Craftsman (i.e., the DeWalt 790 which was a 12 inch saw). If you’re patient and know where to look, you can find good deals.
Thanks for the detailed explanation, very useful. How do you find the Forrest Woodworker I blade that's there? Is it worth getting? Look to be expensive to get one in the UK... I know Mr Sawdust was a fan!
Hello, the Forrest blades are made in New Jersey, USA. Sorry, I don’t know how they are sold/distributed in the UK. We can purchase the Mr. Sawdust blade (TCP) from sliversmill.com. It also depends if you need an imperial or metric sized arbor hole. It’s a great blade. Another highly recommended blade for the RAS is the Freud LU083.
Excellent! Your demonstration made the process very clear to me. Using a dial indicator and your jig is much better than a feeler gauge between the arbor & the table. My mid-1970's Craftsman is nearly due for a periodic tune-up so I will put this to use fairly soon. Do you check runout of the blade first to make sure it is not warped?
Thanks. All blades have some degree of runout. That's why the heel measurements were always made using the same tooth to eliminate that error. A significantly warped blade could impact the bevel adjustment, so you might rotate the blade and confirm square in more than one location. Alternatively, you can also replace the blade with a "master plate", which has a precision ground, uniform surface and is used for calibration.
I bought a thin kerf diablo blade and it is the smothest vibration free blade I have. From now on I will be checking all new blades for run out and if they do not run true they are going back PDQ.
@@vernmitchinson2013 Be aware that the lateral runout can be as much as .003" either way (.006" total), so don't be too critical on the saw plate. The real factor is the lateral runout at the teeth, which is the generated path of the cut. So, check that one tooth like Brian does, and others in several locations to establish Total Indicated Runout. Once you get the heel adjusted to the Average Indicated Runout, you're as good as you going to get. Much of the time, the tooth height on the sides are within .0015" of each other, but will sort of follow the saw plate because they are indexed off the plate at manufacturing. This can cause some consternation for the uninitiated when they first try to chase that high area around and around the saw blade. Just know that you really aren't seeing excessive tooth width, but you're looking at a wave of runout.
Hi Brian, can you email me at contact@seadreamerproject.com I would like to use content in this video for a video on my channel restoring two of these style saws. Of course I will not do so without permission but there is no way I can do a better more concise calibration video.
Email sent.
Perfect!
Thanks!
My saw is a Dewalt DW111
It has no formal way of adjust ing heel and tilt. So what I do is to take a piece of 3/8 ply, about 8 in square, drill a hole in the middle, and mount it in place of the blade. Then lower it until it doesn't quite touch the carefully levelled table, and pucsh the carriage back so that it just doesn't touch the fence. A set square placed against the fence will tell you the fore and aft heel very easily, and when vertical will tell you the vertical alignment.
Thank you. I have heard that the European DeWalt models lacked the same yoke adjustments to account for heel.
Brian Weekley the key is to get the arm at right angles to the fence. My horizontal heel was then adjusted by loosening the plunger lock on the carriage - there's just enough play.
With all that precision you must be doing some work for NASA😂😂😂😂😂
LOL! Just the minimum precision necessary to do good work!
Brian, I think its also important to mention as a general comment that no matter how much you adjust a RAS if the bearings are worn no amount of adjustment will help. There are many companies out there that sell replacement bearings for these saws. For less than $30 you can buy all 4 new carrier bearings. Also, cleaning the track with #0000 steel wool to remove any built up wood an saw dust is a good idea too.
Thanks for the comment. Cleaning the track is always a good idea. In contrast to motor bearings turning at 1000's of rpms, the carriage bearings hardly move and it's extremely rare that they actually wear out. They can get caked in sawdust or the grease simply dries out making them hard to turn. However, they can usually be rejuvenated with penetration oil and re-soaked in machine oil to lubricate. For many of the DeWalt saws, the carriage bearings are no longer available due to their curved shape and can often be very expensive to replace (if you can find them).
thanks for posting this, very hepful
Excellent work. +1 recommendation for the Mr. Sawdust book. I have it and it explains the RAS much better than any other reference I've come across.
Thanks. Yes, that book is a must have for anyone who wants to get the most out of their saw.
After 10 years or so my 1030 is out slightly. The Mr sawdust table has dropped a 32nd on one end, or the other end has raised? Either way this saw hasn't needed any adjustment for this time period. I'm gonna start over from the beginning and see what the results are. It still cuts sq but over the length of a full cut close to 15'' or 16'', it's out 128 of an Inch, I can get it almost perfect. Thanks for posting.
Thanks. The 1030 is a great saw! Good luck with that stand build!
Kudos to you, Brian, as several others have said. You have the best format of demonstrating any process I’ve found on any subject. It’s totally easy to glean the information I need, without the clutter of useless verbosity and an annoying background track. Your printed caption screens are all the info necessary for the technique you are about to present, and your visual demos are worth a million words of describing them. You also show an abundance of closeup views so we can see exactly what you are doing. If there was an award for Effective and Efficient How-to Video, you would win without even a close second place, except maybe another one of your own!
Now, I would like to ask for some more detail: at 4:15 of this table alignment lesson, you are paralleling the table to the swing of the arm by checking the downward point of the arbor with a sheet of paper as a feeler gauge, and adjusting the leveling nuts located between the table and the saw base. Neither my DeWalt nor my Craftsman RAS have leveling nuts. Are these a feature of the Mr. Sawdust table? The angle brackets attaching the table to the base of my saws are woefully inferior to your leveling nuts. I have to trial-and-error (mostly error) this adjustment by loosening the mounting bolts and bumping the table up or down, then tightening again and rechecking. The frustration of over- and under-doing this is monumental.
Further, your closeup appears to show a steel bar attached to the table that transfers this. Is that a 1/2” bar? It seems to me to need that kind of heft; anything thinner would be pretty wimpy, subject to bowing. Finally, is this bar mounted to the table oriented front to back, or crosswise across the front (and the other at the rear of the table)?
Thanks in advance for answering, and I look forward to more! Matt
Matthias Breithaupt Thank you very much for the kind words! I really try hard to present information directly and use as few words as possible. Recently, I’ve been narrating my videos with voice instead of text, but aim for the same succinct style.
The older DeWalt saws used the table mounting and adjustment system shown in this video. Unfortunately, the mounting system was changed on the newer saws to use angle brackets attached to the side of the base as you describe. Your angle brackets are easier to tighten since you can easily reach the nuts from the outside compared to mine where you need access underneath or from behind to reach the locking nuts. However, I agree the studs and nuts used on the older saws are much easier to level! The angle brackets can be extremely difficult and frustrating to adjust. I suggest loosening only one nut at a time (the lowest corner), use a pry bar to slightly raise the table up at that corner, then re-tighten the nut. It’s a slow, trial and error process until you get it right (close enough)!
I have another video titled “Radial Arm Saw: Tables and Fences (Part 2)”. In it, you can see how I made my “Mr. Sawdust” table and shows the original style table mounting bars. The bars are about 1/4 inch thick x 5/8 inch wide that run front to back the same as the angle brackets-both have the thumbscrews attached
Thank you Brian, for the detailed reply. The little guys in the back of my mind were afraid that the table leveling mech was a built-in feature of the old machines. I totally concur that the side nuts on the angle brackets are a pain in the patoonka to adjust to acceptable tolerance. After seeing your vid and a couple other alignment tutorials that brought up the adjusting nuts (but yours had the added benefit of a closeup shot ~ thanks again!) I tried to wrap my head around a vision of adding a leveling mechanism to my current table and eventually a Mr. Sawdust table I’m gonna build.
So to that end, would you have a design idea for adding leveling bolts and jam nuts to either the angle brackets or the saw base itself, employing a steel bar in turn attached to the table? I’m trying to envision how it would function and sketch out some details ... Thanks!
Matthias Breithaupt I think it would be very easy to do. Bolt another angle iron bracket to the base below the existing angle bracket that’s screwed to the table, then add four countersunk bolts in your new Mr Sawdust table (drilled through your existing bracket). These studs could then go into the new bracket and adjusted/secured with lock nuts. If you go to “About” on my main RUclips page, you should be able to send me a direct email. I’d be happy to send you a drawing.
Brian Weekley thank you for what I consider a personal invitation. I snooped around on your Home page and I see a WWII aircraft show, which is over the moon cool!!! Is that you with your hands on the gun? I’m guessing here: was your father a WWII air war veteran? Mine was Infantry, D-Day landing and Patton’s drive across France.
However, I don’t see a link to your private email. I think I’m able to visualize your suggestion of a second angle bracket. Previously, I was trying to envision attaching a bar to the bottom of the table, not the side of the base.
But I would also love to pick your brain some more and talk some shop with another who loves making sawdust! That’ll also give me a chance to ask what scientific field you research, and what kind of projects you’ve tackled over the years. And respond in turn if you’re interested; for starters, my entire shop was built around the centerpiece of my DeWalt RAS. I’ve never owned a table saw.
@@matthiasbreithaupt1391 Don't know why the email is not showing up (I see it on my desktop computer, but not on my phone or ipad RUclips apps)? Send me an email here and I'll send you the sketch of what I was thinking of: weekleybs80@gmail.com
I have uncles that were in WWII, but my dad (the youngest) was part of the occupation force after the war. I've always been a plane nut though. Science-wise, I'm an analytical chemist in the pharma industry.
You hit it out of the park, Brian! We've needed this a long time. Perhaps a little more about the column adjustment, showing the difference between the adjustment of the outer column and the adjustment against the gib would be helpful. But still, a very informative and helpful video that takes the newbie and veteran a long way toward success.
Thanks. I have a few more RAS-related videos planned.
Need the saw, although I really want help from seasoned technicians, especially on radial arm saws!!
Thanks Why the Craftsman isn't exactly like this its very similar
the Idea of using a dial indicator to level the table never occured to me and craftsmen manul didn't suggest it
I'm going to take this information and readjust my saw and probably make it work even better then is does now.
its not bad but its close, I want it closer and this helps me get it to that point.
I guess you could use a digital high ga or comparator as well as a dial indicator and get decent results
Now to figure out a way to attach the dial indicator to the motor frame First I think I'll sand the table and fill the kerf cut with sawdust and glue its MDF anyway.
Thanks. You should be able to do something very similar with the Craftsman and a well adjusted machine is a joy to use. BTW, automotive body filler like Bondo works great to fill in kerfs in the table.
Brian, thanks for the guidance and great videos. As per your suggestion I found and old 1030 that has not moved for 100 years. The bearings on the motor in the arm barely turn and all else follows. The detent pin in the front of the motor does not want to pull out. Lots of WD40 and still no action. I was thinking turning a nut onto the threads and turning it might break it loose but I am fearful to strip the treads. Any ideas?? I pulled the motor from arm and am currently using gravity to penetrate the chamber where the pin is stuck. Thanks!!
Use PB Blaster instead of WD40. Remove the plastic knob (it will easily strip). Screw a nut onto the stud and then you can pull on it with pliers (without damaging the threads). However, the best way to clean everything up is to disassemble the yoke so all parts can be cleaned/polished. Warning! To disassemble the yoke, you need to remove the dog point screw (hidden and hard to miss). Use heat and penetration fluid first. Note that if the dog point screw breaks, it’s nearly impossible to remove. I suggest researching on the DeWalt RAS Forum before you attempt to completely disassemble the yoke. The grease in the roller head yoke bearings are just dried out or caked with sawdust. They can easily be refurbished with some PB Blaster and spinning them. The 1030 is a very desirable model. Good luck!
You are the best
Thanks
GREAT VIDEO I JUST PICKED UP THE SAME SAW AT A YARDSALE..............PAID 45 BUCKS FOR IT
The DeWalt RAS is a great machine. Check out my other videos-several may be useful for setup and use. I highly recommend buying a copy of the book “How to Master the Radial Arm Saw” by Wally Kunkel. Definitely worth the price!
Really appreciate your detailed video, I am getting ready to tuneup my radial arm saw for the first time. Thank you and happy new year.
Thank you. Glad you found it useful.
Years later your video is still doing what you intended in the beginning, helping to keep the RAS accurate and safe for the many of us that know what a great tool the RAS is, Ty!
Thanks so much!
One of the best demonstrations for RAS setup!
Thank you. I thought a basic tutorial would be helpful.
Your machine seems so smooth and accurate it just about makes me want to give up my Craftsman RAS and purchase a DeWalt!
As you should--those old cast iron DeWalts are great! LOL Check out the "DeWalt" Radial Arm Saw Forum. Although it's mostly DeWalt users, all are welcome and it's a great resource for all things RAS related.
@@brianweekley5700, thanks for the info! (Great video btw.)
Yeah I'm not nearly as impressed with my Craftsman now as I am with Dewalt. The Craftsman one I have has zero adjustable. I was able to slot the bearing holes for the saw carriage and push them out in the arm. The arm still won't adjust true and I pretty much just set my fence to the saw because I can't adjust the saw. Nice saw though. 2 and 3 quarter horse power.
Thank you so much for doing this! Way easier to follow than the book!
Thanks. Glad it was useful.
I think your old DeWalt is a FAR better built rig than my 1972-ish Craftsman. The idea of “dialing in” that thing is laughable- it would need to be repeated after every cut LOL.
Sorry to hear that. Sounds like you need to find a quality, vintage saw! :)
excelent video, it has shown how much is involved to make these wonderful tools efective. it also shows why ras has gone out of favor.if these setup steps are not followedthe saw is VERY dangerous, especially when used for ripping. i would expect to spend 2-3 hrs on first setup and 1/2 to 3/4 on rechecks every couplle months. if people r not willing to do this then buy a miter saw instead
Thank you. I don't believe the RAS is as dangerous as people make it out to be. The problem mainly stems from people using the wrong blade on the saw, which makes it more susceptible to climb or kickback during ripping (e.g., a "rip" blade has too few teeth to safely rip on a RAS).
@@brianweekley5700 hello, actually more than the choice of blade is alignment. Kickback occurs when the peice is pinched between blade and fence. The use of the revving knife helps especially if the workpiece is warped.make sure the lift mechanism is snug. Hope u get many years of use
Just happened to come across this, Brian. Excellent tutorial for sure. I'm going to look at some of your other videos :)
Thank you. I try to make videos that may be useful and have some more planned.
Hallo Brian, dein Video hat mir sehr gut gefallen, bensonders von deiner Maschine bin ich beeindruckt. Welches Modell ist es? Habe bei Ebay Kleinanzeigen geguckt aber leider nichts gefunden. Dein Modell wäre ich interessiert .
Vielen Dank für dein sehr informatives Video und Erklärungen.
Beste Grüße vom Daniel aus Oberhausen in Deutschland
Thank you. My saw is a DeWalt MBF. However, it has a larger motor originally from a DeWalt 925 (a combination of two saws).
ruclips.net/video/FN8nawcodjA/видео.htmlsi=U_K--LCCdhAH0Zfc
@@brianweekley5700Thank you very much for your quick reply. It is a pity that such a great machine is not available in Germany. Looking forward to your other videos on your channel.
Thanks!
nice work! lovely video
Thank you-much appreciated!
Great Video... Thank you for being concise and to the point without all the horrible music...
Thank you. I appreciate that!
Are you happy with the Forest blade?
Absolutely! However, it needs to be the Woodworker I (TCP) blade (not to be confused with the Woodworker I (ATB) blade). This particular Forrest blade (known as the “Mr. Sawdust” blade) is only available through Sliversmill or special ordered directly from Forrest (it’s not shown on their website). This, and the Freud LU83 are the only general purpose blades I use on my RAS--good for all operations (besides my dado blade). I strongly recommend joining the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum--a great resource about all things RAS!
I have been searching for the MBF model to purchase and restore. Any advice on resources other than E Bay and Facebook Marketplace for finding this gem? Great job on the saw. I am envious of your ability and the outcome. Congratulations??
Thanks. Craigslist and FB Marketplace are the best sources for me. The 925 is actually a little better (has a better motor than the MBF and also has a brake). Both are 9” saws, but work best with an 8” blade. The GWI and the 1030 are larger, 10” saws and very desirable with 1-1/2 hp motors. Good luck!
Best so far for set up,great video thanks.
Thank you. I thought a tutorial would be useful.
I just picked up an old Craftsman saw so these tip swill come in handy. Thanks
Excellent information. I remember learning to use a radial arm saw in the late 1950's. My Dad bought a DeWalt in 1956. I mostly did crosscuts and ripping with it back then. I was only 7 years old and probably shouldn't have been using it but I was forbidden from setting up the table saw on his ShopSmith. I had a tremendous fear (respect) of power saws so....
I still have all 10 fingers.
Having 10 fingers is good. LOL.
I’m restoring a 1940s 16” Redstar Products RAS. Thanks for this video.
Sounds like a great project. Good luck!
Thanks for the video. I just finished doing my GWI DeWalt today.
Great!
That cut and flip at the end to test the alignment was brilliant. I will start with that. Similar model and I had no idea how to tilt the blade until I saw you do it. Saw was given to me and all of my cuts with it are slightly off. It drives me nuts. Now I know how to calibrate and look forward to the project. THANK YOU
Thank you-glad the video is useful. If you take the time to set it up, it should serve you well. Consider joining the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum-an excellent resource for RAS questions and tips.
Thank you for putting this together. Relatively new to these amazing saws here. I have a GWI in my garage awaiting cleanup and service. The delphi forum is fantastic, but videos are just so helpful.
Thanks. The GWI is a fantastic saw!
Very good
Thank you.
Now I have to find a detailed manual to the old Craftsman I just bought.
Fantastic video Brian. Many thanks.
Thanks. Glad it was useful.
@@brianweekley5700
Extremely useful. The only way it could have been "better" for me was if you owned the same saw that I do so the calibration/disassembly steps were exactly the same.
I've adopted your fence tips BTW and many thanks go to you for those.👍
Nice work. I only wish my table was as easy to adjust (I have a craftsman saw). The leveling process for that one is so much more complicated, and it goes out of whack easily.
Thanks. I really like the table adjustment on the old DeWalts, but the newer ones use angle brackets similar to your Craftsman. Consider joining the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum. Lots of great information, tips, and RAS discussion. They welcome all RAS users, even if you have a Craftsman!
Absolutely the best instruction video on radial arm saws. Thank you very much. Well done
Thank you--much appreciated!
Thanks for this interesting video! Doe you also have a idea for dust removing?
Thank you. Yes, I have built a dust collection system for my radial arm saw and will be posting some information about shortly.
Brian Weekley thanks Brian , I Will await . Much greetings from ud in Holland! 🌷
@@zaagnutjejn8920 ruclips.net/video/bjSa8YU9e8Y/видео.html
I was given a vintage DeWalt radial Arm Saw a few days ago. Has been sitting outside for years, and of course it's all rusty & dirty. I'm in the process of cleaning it up, but a little unsure how to tear it down. You answered all my questions. Great Video! Thank you.
Thank you. Glad it was useful.
Thank you. I’ve purchased my first saw and it needs this TLC.
Thanks. Set it up correctly and it will be a great machine!
Great information.
Glad it was helpful!
You did an excellent job of producing this video Mr. Weekly, and I greatly appreciate you putting it out here to share with everyone. It was well thought out, straight forward, and thoughtfully planned out. Also, it definitely appears that you take excellent care of your equipment...it shows. IMO, you have one of the best saws anyone could own for home use. What is the particular year and model of your DeWalt? I'm very much interested in trying to attain one for my shop. Thanks Mr. Weekly...keep 'em coming!
Thank you very much. The saw shown is a 1957 DeWalt MBF (with a little larger motor). I have another video that gives more details on that saw (Restoration of Vintage Radial Arm Saw: '57 DeWalt MBF).
Terrific job
Thank you. I appreciate the comment!
Great video, I've been a MR Sawdust Fan since the 90s. I have a GA medium Arm and a 1030 in my shop..Bart/VA
Thanks. Those are great saws. I have a 1030 (round arm) too. You can get a glimpse of it sitting back in the corner at 4:13 in this video. That’s a future restoration project waiting in the wings.
Good stuff!
Thanks. Hope it was useful!
thank you for this video! I am going to be restoring my grandfathers RAS since I finally have a place to set up shop!
Thank you. It’s an indespensible tool to me!
Very nicely done Brian. A proper alignment is a safe working saw.
Thank you!
Just received an old craftsman radial arm saw. Your video was very helpful. Will be cleaning it up and aligning it. Thank you!
Thanks. I see you do some nice boat restorations. I find the RAS indispensable for some of my projects too!
@@brianweekley5700 Thanks! I set up the saw the other day and already put it to use. Thanks again for your insight!
Excellent! BTW, consider hoping the “DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum”. Great resource for all things RAS related (questions, tips, etc).
Excellent ! It's one thing to read about it and another to see it done. I need to do the setup on my newly-acquired model GP Portable 12-inch from around 1945. I did the head bearings adjustment but need to make a table and fence to do everything else. Can't wait to try this saw out. I've never used an RAS before. Regards, Jeff
Congrats- the GP is a heavy duty and capable saw. Consider joining the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum. You’ll find it to be a great resource for your new saw and a lot of helpful people who can answer any questions.
A tool to be respected! I only use it for crosscut and gaining dado. Necessary workhorse!
John here a lot to the set up but worth it cross cut king
The procedure looks worse than it is. If you have a quality saw, do it once and you're set.
100 Prozent
Thank you!
Thanks! very nice and helpfull video !!
Thank you. Glad it’s useful!
this is exactly what i needed, thank you
Thanks. Glad you found it useful.
Just picked up an old DeWalt. Thanks for this info!!
Thanks. Nice score. Hope the info is useful.
@@brianweekley5700 super helpful! I have it save in my file!
@@dennisjohnson406 Good luck and let me know how it goes. Nothing like a well adjusted RAS!
Outstanding explanation of how to make the adjustments. Your how-to videos are always very informative.
Thank you! Glad you find them useful.
Dear Brian, This is so incredibly helpful, thank you very much indeed for going to the trouble of explaining setup far better than the DeWalt manual. I am a British owner of a 1960s US model DeWalt living in Japan. The machine was discarded by my work's workshop about 20 years ago and so I liberated it, replaced the motor bearings and generally rejuvenated it back into working condition. While I have been using it successfully for all this time I did really need to finally and finely set it up properly. Your instructions and general explanation are superb ! Best wishes from the wild mountains of central Japan.
Thank you very much. What an interesting story-it’s amazing where these saws end up. I’m sure you will enjoy the saw even more after alignment. Enjoy Japan-a country I’d love to visit someday.
I purchased a Dewalt MBF210 a few months ago on Craigslist. I am now installing in my workshop. I am having a lot of trouble with finding the correct hardware for the leveling bars....any suggestions?
Sorry, I need more info. I'm not clear if you have the two table mounting bars with the thumbscrews? You probably need to make a new table for the saw. The thickness of the saw will dictate the length of mounting screws you will need. First, I strongly suggest joining the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum--there's lots of good info in the FAQs. Also, it would be extremely helpful to order a copy of the book "How to Master the Radial Arm Saw" by Wally Kunkel, which describes how to make a proper table for it. Finally, I have two other videos that help explain how the table is made and location for mounting (Radial Arm Saw: Tables and Fences (Part 1 and 2).
Brian Weekley s I have the table mounting bars but not the hardware that acts as the leveling component......i will build a new tabletop in fact I have the Mr. Sawdust book coming. My concern is I don’t have the leveling ‘screws’ (?) needed for the fine adjustment of the table......
@@billtorrico7574 I bought all of my hardware (screws, washers, and jam nuts) from McMaster-Carr. Double check, but I think the thread size is 5/16-18. If so, what I bought was 1-1/4 and 2-1/2 inch long screws (91772A625 and 91772A634), washers (92141A030), and jam nuts (91847A030). Behind the fence, there would be some 5/16-18 allen screws, but I used the ones I already had. Hope that helps.
BTW, these are shown in my video "Radial Arm Saw: Tables and Fences (Part 2) at 3 min and 30 sec. For an MBF with two mounting rails, you would need 4 long and 4 short screws. All 8 screws secure the table to the mounting rails, but the 4 long screws that extend past the table are used to mount and adjust the table to the base.
Brian Weekley this is amazing information thank you very much! By thee way.....is there an inclusive parts list somewhere you have stumbled upon?? Like replacement yoke bearings or possibly the locking mechanism for raising/lowering the unit?
After watching this instruction video, I immediately subscribed. Thank you so much. I have a Rockwell 12-RAS but many of the points of adjustment are the same and as soon as I get this beast down to the basement, I'll be making the table and setting up the saw just as you did.
Thanks. Glad the video was helpful. I have many other RAS-related videos you may find interesting.
Dial indicator good idea. Thanks
I find it easier than using a feeler gauge.
mattt97 You can buy inexpensive dial indicators or dial test indicators that are good enough for the job on eBay or at Harbor Freight for $10-15 USD. If you also buy a magnetic base/stand for it, you can use the dial indicator to adjust the vertical and horizontal heel (instead of the dowel jig that I showed). In that case, place a blade on the table so you have something for the magnet to stick to.
@@brianweekley5700 Definitely second the recommendation of a dial indicator. Well worth it if the saw has not been too beat up. That's how I know that some RAS's can't be made accurate. All of them will run and cross cut just fine, but anything precise can be frustrating to achieve unless you get a good vintage DeWalt, Delta/Rockwell, Delta/Milwaukee, etc.
Brian, thank you for putting this video together. Liked & subscribed. I don't have a DeWalt, I have an old Delta/Rockwell - but all your steps / things to check are there. Greatly appreciate this, and the style of the video. I tried putting it on closed captioning so I could watch it while my daughter fell asleep drinking a bottle and was bummed that I couldn't.. then I realized you caption for us. :)
Thank you very much. And most people complain I don’t talk in many of my videos! LOL
Great item. Perhaps we should have started with...Make sure to disconnect electricity supply, then remove blade....
Sorry, I can’t tell if you are serious or being sarcastic, but I will not circumvent the order of natural selection. Otherwise, I’d simply have to just state in all of my videos “Do not use any tools; you may be harmed or killed doing so”.
Great vid. I have a couple RASaws which I am almost done building new homes for in my shop. Hoping to finish up & calibrate them both this wknd. Just wondering if you feel it’s important to complete each of the alignment steps in the same order you show them in your vid? Or are the steps not contingent on each other in order to successfully get them dialed
Thank you. Yes, for the most part, the order of calibration is important. For example, you want to make sure there’s no slop in the arm bearings before you begin and the table must be level before adjusting the bevel. Horizontal heal must be done before vertical heal. I’ve tried to layout the process in a logical order to minimize the effect of one adjustment on another-especially when setting the saw up for the first time. Later, you may find that a single adjustment tweak may be needed (e.g., miter or bevel adjustment). Good luck with your saws!
Thanks, just adjusted an 80's 125 powershop I bought used and although it's a bit rough around the edges it cuts beautifully now. Thanks. 🙏
Thank you. I’m glad you found the video useful.
Thanks again Brian! Had to watch it again this morning. Going to tackle my GA Medium arm this morning, thanks to YOU!
Thanks, Leo! Hope the GA comes out great.
Very well done. the use of the dial gauge is a good idea. I will try to use it on the other adjustments as well.
One thing you missed and no body else talks about this either and that is the fence.
Before you do any adjustments on the saw make sure the fence is perfectly straight. I bought my RAS brand new in 1972 It is a Black and Decker. I was surprized to see your DeWalt adjustment was almost the same. The first project I built was a stair from the main floor to the basement. When I put it in place one stringer was 3" off the floor. I went back and checked all the adjustments but could not fine anything wrong. I tried to make a picture frame but the corners never matched up. I found an after market book that provided very detailed instructions. I readjusted the saw again using the new book. The picture frame still did not work out. It was not until I replaced the table that I found out that the original table had a slight curve that bent the fence when it was locked in place. Everything I cut now is perfect.
Thank you. You certainly can use the dial gauge to adjust the vertical and horizontal heel and I’ve done that too. Just make sure you measure at the same point of the blade at both ends of travel. It’s easy to be complacent and just pull the blade across the dial gauge, but blades are rarely flat all the way across. Here, I decided to use the dowel on a tooth to get the widest range of travel.
Certainly, the edges of the table(s) need to be straight and the fence will conform to that when clamped. I have another video that shows how I make my tables: ruclips.net/video/_e5yQC_i7mI/видео.html
Attention to detail is required to achieve good results with a RAS. That’s why I like them! Maybe that’s why so many people are quick to dismiss the RAS-they’re either too lazy or unwilling to learn how to use them properly?
This is an absolutely fabulous guide. Thank you! (I just got a new GA so this is perfect!)
Thanks. The GA is a monster and great saw. A few things are different, but the basic concepts are the same. Good luck with your new baby!
Thank you for sharing. I just came upon a DeWalt 7790 Type 7 and I'll be using these steps to align it.
Excellent. The 7790 is the most powerful 5/8” arbor saw DeWalt made for consumers. Enjoy!
Outstanding as always!
Thanks!
Really good instruction. Many thanks I am better equipped to deal with my old saw.
Thank you very much. Glad you found it useful!
Just got thru tuning up my 7770 and your method of squaring up the blade was easy and spot-on. Thanks
Thanks. Glad it was useful!
Excellent vid, thank you for posting. Restoring a 1030 saw and this will be very helpful.
Thank you-glad it’s helpful. The 1030 is a great model. I also have a 1030 round arm waiting for restoration.
Simple, direct, and brilliant. Picked up a project saw today.
Congrats. A good saw, properly aligned is a good thing!
millwrightmac says good job men thanks for posting[las vegas millwrights]
Thank you.
Any source of info on yoke adjustment for a 12" Craftsman RAS?
A “12” Craftsman” is not a specific model. I know some 12” Craftsman saws were actually DeWalts that were rebranded (i.e., DeWalt 790/7790). If you happen to have one of those, it’s definitely a good one. Otherwise, I can’t help with the other Craftsman models (e.g., Emerson, etc...). Look up the “DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum”-some members also have Craftsman’s and might be able to help you.
There's videos and then there's videos! VERY nicely done and thank you!
Very much appreciated!
Very nice video thumbs-up from me thx for sharing
Thank you. I thought there was a need for a RAS calibration video and hope it was helpful.
Hi Brian, I've greatly enjoyed watching your videos. They've been very informative and interesting.
I'm actually going to be getting my first RAS in a couple weeks (and I'm very excited!). I was hoping to ask, what kind of blade do you use? It seems most people recommend a blade with a negative hook angle, but it doesn't look like you can get a combination blade with a negative hook. But most RAS's I see online appear to be fitted with a positive hook blade anyway. I would want to get a blade that's good for both cross-cutting and ripping.
Thanks again for the great content. :)
Thank you. I strongly suggest joining the “DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum”. It’s a great resource for information, techniques, safety, questions, etc. about the radial arm saw. There are only two blades that are highly recommended by our forum and proven tested by our members for many years: (1) Freud LU83 and (2) Forrest Woodworker I TCG (not to be confused with the Woodworker I (ATB) blade). This particular Forrest blade (known as the “Mr. Sawdust” blade) is only available through Sliversmill or special ordered directly from Forrest (it’s not shown on their website). Despite what you often hear, both of these blades have positive hook angles and work extremely well in all cutting positions (crosscut, ripping, miters, etc.).
@@brianweekley5700 Thank you for the prompt reply and for the advice. Much appreciated!
For many years I was a Tool and Cutter Grinder in a large machine shop. While there, I learned to appreciate the better examples of machine tools. That's why I got myself a nice old De Walt MBF (the 9") years ago. It's small, but every bit as well made as the Cincinnati centerless or a Kellenberger cylindrical grinder or any of the better machines in any machine shop. They were made in the Golden Age of American machine tool manufacturing and with proper calibration and treatment, will outlast us all. In the mid 1960's, the corporate view changed to profits over quality and the rest is history. The bigger commercial machines remained well built but the consumer grade tools... well, if you got a good one, then great, but many are just sitting gathering dust because they simply cannot be made accurate.
Absolutely true! I’ve watched many of your canoe sail rig videos and remember seeing a DeWalt RAS in your shop in one of them. I have a Grumman and have considered making a sail rig for it. Love the outriggers you made for yours.
@@brianweekley5700 There's a lot of mutual admiration, then. If you ever get that itch, I have a photo montage of the pontoon build process that might help formulate some ideas.
I'm a new subscriber. I loved your video, no long winded talking, no music in the background and no kid racing through the shop on their skate boards. A long time ago, about twenty years, I bought a radial arm saw then a year later bought a table saw. I read up on the radial arm saw and discovered there were many dangers in owning one. At the time, my son was just starting his wood shop so i gave him the radial arm saw. Time has past and I went to my son's house for one reason or another. I happened to see my old Radial arm saw laying on its side under his bench. I read some more on the saw and discovered if properly set up and used, it was equal to the table saw. My son didn't want the radial arm saw sine he never used it so I asked if I could have it back. Now that I've seen your video, i'm going to use what I learned set up my "new" saw. It's got less then a hundred hours on it so it should be easy to set up. Thank You SO much.
Thank you. Note that not all RAS's are created equal. If you have a quality RAS like an old cast iron DeWalt, set it up correctly, and learn how to use it properly, it will serve you very well! Good luck with yours.
Love how you read that RAS were dangerous.... so gave it to your son. :)
Just picked up a 1958 GWI 1.5hp Dewalt with a 120 / 240 volt switch on it.
Congrats! The GWI is an excellent and desirable DeWalt model. Consider joining the “DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum” . It’s a great place to get information if you’re new to the RAS.
I just signed up yesterday. I'm hoping to track down an anti-kickback pawl, a wrench set and maybe a planer attachment. I found your video link on the site there.
Having an old RAS, I was think of making a jig to do box joints, running the dado in the normal saw blade position, having a stop on the arm and then tilting the work table jig up to square the cut, using a finger and fence that lifts with the jigs table. Would this work?
I'm not totally clear what you are proposing. If you search for "Box Joints (Finger Joints) with a Radial Arm Saw", I have a RUclips video that shows how I make box joints with the RAS.
@@brianweekley5700 Your jig cuts parallel to the table and uses blocks to lower/raise the cut. What I would like to do is cut perpendicular (normal cross cut) and then lift the work so the blade can cut the full depth of the finger. If you simple pull the dado blade forward you will be left with a tilted cut, now pivot the work up to square it off. Think of a hinged drafting table that can change angle, Placing the work under the blade and then lifting the work to square the cut instead of advancing the blade.
Robert Pendzick It could work if you are working on tiny boxes and I’d love to see an example. I just think the technique would be very limited due to the height you can raise the blade above the table.
Though it ain't much to brag about, in exchange for teaching a co-worker how to use an old Craftsman lathe he inherited from his grandfather and for restoring the haggard edges of several of his grandfather's lathe tools, the fella gave me a 9 inch 113 series Craftsman RAS that he picked up from a barn sale and never fussed with. I'm writing this while using my backside and an 80# cast iron intake manifold (1967 Ford Galaxie 390FE that now has an aluminum Edelbrock) to aid the glue-up of a dual (3/4"x2)-layered 2'x4'x1-1/2" MDF table top with three 1/4"x1" flat bars. The table frame is rock solid and essentially done. I'll be attaching a 1/2" sheet of MDF as my sacrificial top and begin adjusting the saw tomorrow. Much thanks for a very clearly presented video...oh and by the way I'm 35...so these RAS gems have some measurable future. I'd love to get my hands on an Original Saw one of these days
Glad the videos are helpful. Those are some heavy duty steel bars (we typically use 1/8 x 3/4 inch). If you want, a 1/4 inch sacrificial top also works fine and are meant to be disposable. You can also refill the kerfs with bondo when you need a fresh top. Absolutely, keep your eye out for a vintage cast iron DeWalt or Original Saw!
@@brianweekley5700 how do you affix the sacrificial top to the table? I'm guessing screws placed strategically so as to not interfere along typical cutting angles like 45, 30, 22-1/2 etc. As far as a DeWalt or original saw...well it'll have to wait...I don't make nearly enough income to drop a few thousand dollars on a vintage saw regardless of how much I'd love to have one. Because of the internet, people know what they have and how much they should be asking so the negotiating lee-way is not what it used to be.
Vernon James I just use pin nails strategically placed. I also use a sharpie to mark their locations so they are easily visible. It’s very easy to pull the top off and use pliers to pull out the nails when you replace the top. I really think this is faster and easier then using screws. Besides, you’ll never be able to get the screws back in the same holes with a new top. Have you seen my videos on building tables? Check out 5:40 in this video: ruclips.net/video/_e5yQC_i7mI/видео.html
When I work with angles other than 90 or 45, I just lay down a scrap piece of MDF on the table since I don’t like to have all kinds of angles permanently cut into my top.
You can easily find good, vintage, cast iron DeWalt saws in the $50 to 150 range. You would be surprised how many people don’t want radial arm saws any more.
@@brianweekley5700 looking in my area (Beloit, Janesville, Madison Wisconsin and Chicagoland, $150-200 gets you a 10in Craftsman - saw a DeWalt from the 60s for $50 but looked like the exact same sheet metal/aluminum construction as Craftsman. Then I saw a cast iron DeWalt 14" for $1,400...
Vernon James Try Facebook Marketplace. I just took a look in the Madison/Wisconsin area and saw a GW for $25 and MBFs (like mine in this video) in the $50 to 200 range. They are out there-especially if you don’t mind refurbishing them. They are built so much better than most of the Craftsman’s. Note that there were one or two DeWalt models that were badges as Craftsman (i.e., the DeWalt 790 which was a 12 inch saw). If you’re patient and know where to look, you can find good deals.
Very helpful, great job!
Glad it was useful.
You, sir, are a perfectionist.
Thank you. I’ll take that as a complement!
I fixed my radial arm saw, after sitting unused since 1973 I gave it away ! Only tool in my shop I didn’t need in all those years!
That's a shame. The RAS is the most used tool in my shop. In fact, I sold my table saw in favor of my RAS's.
Great job!
Thank you!
Nicely done! Thanks!
Thanks!
Great video
Thank you! Hope it was useful.
Thanks for the detailed explanation, very useful. How do you find the Forrest Woodworker I blade that's there? Is it worth getting? Look to be expensive to get one in the UK... I know Mr Sawdust was a fan!
Hello, the Forrest blades are made in New Jersey, USA. Sorry, I don’t know how they are sold/distributed in the UK. We can purchase the Mr. Sawdust blade (TCP) from sliversmill.com. It also depends if you need an imperial or metric sized arbor hole. It’s a great blade. Another highly recommended blade for the RAS is the Freud LU083.
@@brianweekley5700 Thanks, I'm out in NYC for a week in January, I'll see about ordering one of them!
Excellent! Your demonstration made the process very clear to me. Using a dial indicator and your jig is much better than a feeler gauge between the arbor & the table. My mid-1970's Craftsman is nearly due for a periodic tune-up so I will put this to use fairly soon.
Do you check runout of the blade first to make sure it is not warped?
Thanks. All blades have some degree of runout. That's why the heel measurements were always made using the same tooth to eliminate that error. A significantly warped blade could impact the bevel adjustment, so you might rotate the blade and confirm square in more than one location. Alternatively, you can also replace the blade with a "master plate", which has a precision ground, uniform surface and is used for calibration.
Very well done Brian. From Wally Kunkel
@@kunkelwood Thanks, Wally. Much appreciated!
I bought a thin kerf diablo blade and it is the smothest vibration free blade I have. From now on I will be checking all new blades for run out and if they do not run true they are going back PDQ.
@@vernmitchinson2013 Be aware that the lateral runout can be as much as .003" either way (.006" total), so don't be too critical on the saw plate. The real factor is the lateral runout at the teeth, which is the generated path of the cut. So, check that one tooth like Brian does, and others in several locations to establish Total Indicated Runout. Once you get the heel adjusted to the Average Indicated Runout, you're as good as you going to get. Much of the time, the tooth height on the sides are within .0015" of each other, but will sort of follow the saw plate because they are indexed off the plate at manufacturing. This can cause some consternation for the uninitiated when they first try to chase that high area around and around the saw blade. Just know that you really aren't seeing excessive tooth width, but you're looking at a wave of runout.