The old DeWalts are great saws! The heavy, cast iron makes for a sturdy machine. If you haven't seen it already, check out my video on how to adjust it. Tune it up and make sawdust!
You don't talk alot. I've got one of those saws, and it's still in good shape. I love old tools. They were built, and built to be used. It's unreal how beefy they were made for the home shop. And, they have a craftsman look in design. Good job
Beautiful Job, nice to see pride in workmanship and attention to detail. Only thing I would consider: panic stop switch and a spring or weighted return for safety purposes.
Thank you and I appreciate the comment. I don't use spring returns because they make it very hard to adjust the yoke when you need to set the blade or molding head distance (ripping and molding operations). However, they are certainly good if you only use the saw for crosscuts. The saw is level and the yoke bearings are properly set where it takes 4-6 lbs of deliberate force to move it. Therefore, there's no risk the carriage will walk across the table unexpectedly. A panic switch is a good idea that I've considered, but haven't determined the best location for one--especially considering the many user positions when working on a RAS.
Great info for me Dewalt R1350. Fence is still adjustable on the table saw, and the cabinet it sits in has a fence that matches the Rip Out setup so you can rip 24” wide stock. Thanks so much for your replies
I have an old dewalt radial saw and I was going to give it away but with everything Ive seen here.. Its resparked an intrerest to a tool I honestly didnt really know about. this weekend Im going to build a proper bench for my 50 year old saw. I cant wait to reuse it. thanks to you and every other video ive seen that has rekindel my love for this saw
Its a great saw and looks amazing, I have the 16 inch model I got from Lindsey lumber went they sold off everything. Had it for 40 years now and still cuts perfect.
Beautiful job, Brian; lovingly restored. And another excellent video! I like that you were able to substitute the Frame 236 motor into the arm. Congratulations - this saw will serve you well and can be passed to the next generation.
Check out my video on making extension tables. It shows how they are connected to the RAS table. ruclips.net/video/Doa3Bnus5r8/видео.htmlsi=0TkbxbG4UEajxXHb
Well Done thanks for the tips Upgrading the Motor was a very smart thing to do those Factory motors under any type of Stress or long use would always overheat and trip the breaker as a Teenager the same make and Model was my Dads Primary Shop Saw we used it to break down Sheet Goods and doing Rips on it were a chore
Thanks. Although I put a larger motor on this saw, I wouldn’t do that again. It’s better to just get a larger, more powerful saw to begin with. The larger saws have greater capacity and are beefier to carry the larger motors.
Someone on the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw was making those decals and sent me one. Sorry, I don't remember who that was. However, I found a guy on eBay who makes vinyl decals for reasonable price. I've sent him graphics and he's make a few for me. His name is Rob and he goes by "silverballdesigns" on eBay.
Thanks. Good luck with your saw. BTW, consider joining the “DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum”. It’s a great resource for any questions about your saw (restoration, use, etc.). Doesn’t matter if you have a Craftsman-many people on the site do..
Thanks for the question. I think my strain reliefs were Heyco M4812 and M4912. Since they are intended for panel mount in sheet metal, I used epoxy to glue them in place. I know others have found very similar ones at McMaster, but I don't know the part numbers offhand. Good luck with your restoration!
@@brianweekley5700 thanks so much, the videos are awesome I believe that I have watched the restoration one 20 times and am completely painting mine just like yours, I'm excited for this saw as the only ras I have had has been an in accurate craftsman. I probably should have taken more time with the craftsman but always seem as if the blade shook as it was cutting and never a perfect cut. This dewalt seems like it's the ticket
It's an awesome saw! Just make sure you use penetrating fluid and don't force anything. Be aware of the "dog point" screw that keeps the king bolt on the yoke from turning. You definitely don't want that one to break that or you're in big trouble (almost impossible to remove if you do). If you haven't done so already, lookup the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum on the internet. It's a great source to ask questions and get advice on anything RAS related. Lots of FAQs to read.
Mine looks that good without restoration (almost). The person who owned it, you could tell they loved it. The serial number places it in 58 or 59. I love it too and hope someone will use it after me..
I can't get enough of these Dewalt RAS videos, articles and photos. I love them but am not as talented at aesthetic restoration as you are. At ~1:35 you featured a "bleeder resistor" newly soldered across your start capacitor - what is that for ? The motor on my model GP doesn't have that, do I need one? and why? Thanks Brian.
I think the purpose of the resistor is just to bleed the capacitor so it doesn’t hold a high voltage charge for long after it’s needed-possibly for safety? However, my understanding is that not all motors have the resistor. I simply replaced the resistor that was already on mine when I installed a new capacitor.
If you’re talking about the Testors model paint, I just checked and there is no color or code listed on the label. All I can say is that it’s “red”. LOL!
The strain reliefs were from Heyco (I don't remember the sizes, but here's a link): www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/184/Snap_In_Strain_Relief-1133532.pdf You can also find similar ones at McMaster. I think the connectors (to disconnect the motor) were Leviton ML1-P & C.
Thanks. It’s a Frame 236 motor from a DeWalt 7770. However, I don’t recommend doing that because you also need a larger yoke to fit it. I just happened to have the parts to put it together, but I always tell people you’re better off just getting a larger saw!
@@brianweekley5700 duly noted! i got the MBF and will start making it beautiful again, but i'm already interested in a bigger saw that is the "early DeWalt" prior to B&D. Have an opinion on which one to look for?
@@hammondgarage3011 If you're looking for an older, larger saw, the GWI or 1030 are very desirable (about 1.5 hp). However, the DeWalt 790 or 7790 is the largest consumer-sized saw you can buy (with a 5/8 inch arbor). Even though it may be B&D branded, that is still a quality saw with full cast-iron arm and a great motor (it was cheapened like the smaller saws with the plastic top arms).
Thank you. I purchased bearings from The Accurate Bearing Company and the capacitor from McMaster-Carr. I strongly suggest joining the “DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum”. It’s a great resource to get information about using and restoring your saw.
Hey Brian, I have two of these I use daily. And another waiting for me to decide which direction to go with it. All three of mine are MB's. two are '54's, and the onein pieces, I can't recall. It is the dark bluish color, while my dailys are the same green as yours. One of my daily saws I turned into a 'beam' saw by fabing an aluminum T-slot table and attaching a bracket to the front of the table to the end of the radial arm. I took off the end cap, and placed a plate of 0.50" aluminum with half rounds on each side. On the bracket, attached to the table, which is an artistic inverted V, (curved with rounded edges), I mount four bearings with half-round convex bearings on shoulder bolts. The bearings ride on the rounded edge of the plate, allowing vertical movement, but restricting rotation. I have a friction locking assy I designed to lock the arm, at any given height. One of the great things, is nothing of the original saw is drilled, or changed. THe saw could reverted to original, at any time. The only difference from using it as a normal RAS, is I push the saw head, rather than pull. Plus, I use the T-slots &/or several different vises to hold material. I use both carbide toothed blades and 1/32" thick abrasive blades I get from MSC. The reason for the 'push', is to prevent blade climb. When I first fired it up, and pulled the saw head, the arm was not up for the force of the saw blade wanting to climb on the material, even when I had it lock. It was a violent experience, unless I move the blade in 0.001's of an inch per minute! When I push, the blade pulls down, and all is good. The saw was an answer to a dilemma I had. I was starting to manufacture a brake conversion kit, and needed to make a square 37' cut, for alignment of the mount on the vehicle and correct brake caliper alignment. I went through all of the methods of cutting both aluminum and steel, and there was no process available to give me the cut. All methods required milling to get both the square, and the precise angle. If I bought a mill, the kits were not worth selling, if I paid someone, they weren't worth making, either. I am glad every day I bought the DeWalt for 50.00 and made this saw. I have made SO many tools, parts and devices since I had the ability to make quick, square, SAFE cuts in alum, steel, and hardened steel. Think of the tooling you pass up because it has a threaded, tapered, SDS, or brace & bit shank. Now, I by them for pennies, and cut the end off. If you are interested in seeing my build journal with pics, I should have my website back up in the next few weeks, (I got virus attacked, and have quarantined everything, until I get it cleaned out.). WHen the site's back up, I can come back and post the URL,if you want to take a look. I just added an LED alignment light to my metal saw, as a test. eBay for ~12.00, and with two layers of aluminum tape, it fits right in the hole for the kick back pawl. I have also added a fix for the slick metal of the blade guard adjustment on both saws. I also have a how to on my site, for that. I used some bike inner tube, a chrome fender washer, and a big wing nut. Now, when I adjust the guard, it doesn't flop out of control, as soon as any tension is released. The first time I dented some expensive wood, on my other saw, I fixed that. I'm sure you can relate. LOL Gotta get back to it, was just looking up a bearing number for the DeWalt, and your vid came up, and got me sidetracked. GeoD
Sounds very interesting. I’d love to see what you came up with. I’m sure you’ve seen the beam saws that are made by the Original Saw Company. So, making one out of two vintage saws are is intriguing. I once saw somebody bolt to arms together (where the end caps are) to increase the crosscut capacity, but I just can’t imagine having that much weight extended off of one column. By all means, post your website when available. Thanks!
Thank you. The main table is 37" wide and the extensions are about 60" wide. I make "Mr. Sawdust" style tables. I highly suggest the book "How to Master the Radial Arm Saw" by Wally Kunkel. He describes the way to make perfectly flat, awesome tables for the RAS.
You shouldn't have to lubricate the arm for miters (or are you referring to bevels). I assume you are releasing the miter clamp to move the arm, yes? It is reverse threaded (i.e., you have to pull the lever towards you to release the miter clamp and push back to tighten it). In general, we don't typically cut left-hand miters on a RAS. Instead, it's better to use the "broken fence method" or a "flying wing jig". I'll provide some links to some relevant videos below. BTW, I have a separate video that describes how to setup/calibrate your radial arm saw that may help. Broken fence method: ruclips.net/video/1wZhrAvtPWc/видео.htmlsi=jpSRLyXCF1r_RVEY Flying Wing Jig: ruclips.net/video/Rw9jPK5jPwI/видео.htmlsi=7YjE8WVoPPsr1Vyw How to Setup/Calibrate Your Saw: ruclips.net/video/EQ_HXSuh1PU/видео.htmlsi=lSOLzOKv5wV88f_j
The arm clamp maybe too tight or corrosion has set in. Some nut buster and gentle taps with a rubber hammer will get it moving. Just keep spraying and exercise the arm back and forth. Buy the Mr. Sawdust book or get copy of the Dewalt owners' manual.
I have a mbf and a 925dlx. I have an chance to get a early version of the 790. All 110v. All in great condition. I will probably only keep 2. Which of these 3 would be your first and 2nd choice? Is the mbf known for holding its adjustments the best?
That’s a tough call-they are all great saws! The 790/7790 were the most powerful, 5/8” arbor, consumer-sized saws made by DeWalt. It’s an excellent saw that can easily swing a 12” blade when needed (some were available with 12” blade guards). For overall power and capacity, that’s the best of the three. The 925 is every bit as good as the MBF, but has a better TEFC motor (with a brake). Both work best with an 8” blade. However, the MBF definitely has the cool factor (it’s a beautiful saw). It all depends what you want to use them for. Molding or cutting 1x pine, the MBF or 925 works fine. If you want to routinely rip 2x hardwood, definitely the 790. I’d be hard pressed choosing which one to get rid of and would most likely keep all three!
Fantastic job on the restore. I have a 57 mbf. Trying to replace the capacitor but finding it hard to identify the capacitor i need to replace it with. Any info on rating or part number or source ?
Sorry, I don't remember what it was off hand. If you post on the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum, I'm sure someone can give you the capacitance for the MBF motor..
awesome job. i have a Dewalt 1400 and rebuilt a GWI. havent had to finsih it . just needs the table. love the LED lights. excellent idea. I saw your 2nd motor and arm. i did some research. PLease correct me if I am wrong. the motor is from a Dewalt 770 and the housing is from a 925.
That's correct. However, I don't recommend scavenging from two other saws for an MBF like I did (I already had the extra parts). You're better off just getting a larger machine to begin with and you'll be much happier. The MBF arm isn't sized to carry the added weight and has a lower height capacity column with that combination. A 925 is a better saw than the MBF in the first place.
I had an extra 236 motor from a broken saw that someone had put out for trash. However, you also need a larger yoke to hold it. It's really not preferred to build a "Frankensaw". I highly recommend just getting a larger, more powerful saw. You'll be happier off in the long run (greater cut capacities and a larger arm to support it). I wouldn't have made one unless I already had the parts from other broken saws.
I used Rustoleum Sea Green multi-textured paint. It’s more blue than the original. It does leave a very textured surface. It looks good, but I’d probably prefer a smoother finish enamel if I did it again. If you choose to use it, definitely finish with several coats of high gloss.
@@brianweekley5700 I just got a original owner MBC in really good condition for $40. I'll be really examining your videos for info on restoring it. I'm so thankful that you made these. My wife isn't happy with me. I now have 4 RAS. Maybe I need a 12 step program?
@@littleshopofsawdust1157 Nice score! As you know, the MBC is rather underpowered, but it’s a quality saw and sounds like it’s in good condition. It works well for 1x material and excellent for molding/shaping work. You have to have more than one! Good luck with your restoration.
so I bought one of these recently and absolutely love the thing, only one problem. No brake. With dado blades in it, it spins for ever. Is there anything I can do to add a brake?
If it’s taking forever to spin down, that’s a sure sign that the motor bearings are shot (after 50 years, the grease dries up and there’s no resistance left). If you replace the motor bearings, you will find it will stop much quicker! I strongly suggest joining the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum. On their webpage (FAQs), there’s much info about how to correctly change the motor bearings (it’s not too difficult to do, but you need to read how first or you could break the delicate fan). DeWalt once offered an electric brake for these saws, but they are rare. Again, on the DeWalt Forum, there are some instructions on how to make your own electric brake if you are so inclined.
@@brianweekley5700 your the best! thanks for getting back to me. Several times I've thought about getting rid of it and just picking up one of the craftsman ones that are out there for $100 or so. But I just love the form factor of these 50's dewalts. I'd love to get it working so I can rely on it for dados on bookshelves.
I'm picking up another MBF this week - hopefully it's in better condition than the other two. I already have!? Question, what sort of power cord wire did you use when rewiring them?
I'd like to use that textured sea green paint too, but every place I've looked, they don't have it. Also, could you tell us where you got the reproduction decals?
I found the Rustoleum textured paint at my local Walmart. It does take a number of cans. For the labels, I found Rob at silverballdesigns.com who prints very nice vinyl decals for a great price. If you provide a high resolution graphic, he will print it for you. You can find the DeWalt high resolution graphics at vintagemachinery.com or post a question on the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum and someone will help you find one.
@@brianweekley5700 I guess that green textured paint just isn't even available anymore, not even on rustoleum's own website. I ended up just painting it what Krylon calls sea green glass and what 94 paint calls paris green as they're identical. Rustoluem still has textured paint, just not in green of any shade, lol. The sea green/paris green is sort of similar to the 60's DeWalt saws...or maybe closer to a 60's mint green chevy truck...in any event, I'll live with it, lol.
The original frame 156 motor is 9.8 amps and the newer, frame 236 motor is 11 amps (with automatic brake). Not that big of an amp difference, but the frame 236 is a much better built motor. It came off a broken 7770. Note this conversion is not plug and play (will not fit the original yoke)! However, I happened to already additional parts (larger yoke) available from another dead saw to put this hybrid together, I don’t recommend destroying multiple working saws to create the hybrid in this video. It is far better to just get a bigger saw with a stronger motor (e.g., GWI, 1030, 790/7790, etc), The bigger saws also have larger tables, cut capacity, and larger columns to support heavier motors.
What did you use to affix the led lighting? I had a strip I bought many years ago and the adhesive dried up. I tried a bit of epoxy but it didn't work. Would CA glue work? I cleaned up the underneath of the arm thoroughly prior to trying. But it wouldn't work. My old eyes need the extra light! Lol
Brian I appreciate your channel and value your input. I have Built Mr Sawdust table like what you have and had a question. To mount it do you use screws up from bottom or recessed bolt? I modified an old 10’ cabinet so I can have built in support for long pieces. In alignment of the fence of the saw to cabinet fence, I think the 3/4 fence furthest back would be what the cabinet fence would be the best way to line it up? Thanks for any thoughts as can’t upload a picture to help you understand.
Sorry, not sure I completely follow. First, what saw do you have? Mounting the table will vary depending on the saw and model. If you have a model with L-brackets, the table might be attached to the brackets with screws from below. If you have a model with steel bars, the table is bolted on with countersunk bolts/machine screws. Fences are designed to be removable (held in place with clamps). Therefore, you don’t want to permanently mount a fence in a large table. There are many reasons to move it depending on the operation. I have several videos that describe how RAS tables work and how to setup and adjust a RAS. I also suggest joining the “DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum” where you can find a lot of information and a great place to ask questions.
A few links that may be helpful: ruclips.net/video/Q1cc-_vPT0w/видео.htmlsi=JIGE-fAlG1U9APLv ruclips.net/video/_e5yQC_i7mI/видео.htmlsi=Grcca-uSd5WfMObx ruclips.net/video/EQ_HXSuh1PU/видео.htmlsi=gj27duhQ3ilSj1kN
Really nice job. Quick question regarding the bearings that allow the motor to roll so nicely on the arm. How did you remove the roller bearings that didnt have a nut that you can see? I tried removing mine to clean them but the bolt just kept turning but never backed itself out. Any pointers is much appreciated! Thanks!
What saw model do you have? If you separate the yoke (remove the king bolt), you should be able to access the bearing nuts underneath. You may need a punch to drive the shafts out. Make sure you know how to properly remove the king bolt. Some saws have a dog point screw and others have a star-type washer with a tab that can be easily broken off. However, you can probably clean the bearings in place (spray some PB Blaster on them and turn). They should free up nicely.
Michael Snow Then yours should have a dog point screw in the side of the yoke. Once that is removed, you should be able to unscrew the king bolt and separate the parts. It’s about 2” long or so. Put some penetrating oil on it for a day or two before you remove it. I’ve heard that if it breaks, you’re in big trouble-almost impossible to remove it and too hard to drill out. Good luck, it’s a great little saw.
I just bought a 56 without looking at it . The end of the arm was broken so it went into the steel bin . That kind of break and you can't trust anything. I'm hoping to find another one. It did come with a very nice like new blade cover guard if anyone is interested 😎
@@brianweekley5700 it was really beat up. It's still in the bin. The stand was even bent . It would take a lot to pull the motor. It was a 16" . I think Home Depot in their cut department has a 16" Delta . It's set to only cross cut 🙄. I said to the guy " Wouldn't it be cool to set it for a rip and split a 6x6 " ❓ He said " Definitely❗ but we're not allowed to " .😎
If you want it to go to someone who will appreciate it, post it on the “DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum”. I’m sure someone would buy it or love to have it to restore.
Great restoration! Would love to know how you got the led lights to work of the on switch . I’m U.K. 240 v. Supply single phase like yours. I’ve the modern DW 721 model. If you were able to assist my lighting to the table I’d be grateful, but only if you’ve got the time. Every blessing Peter
Thanks! I use a separate junction box (with a switch) that I plug both the saw and the LED transformer into. It serves as an extra safety shutoff to the saw when I change blades. Therefore, when I flip that switch on, the lights come on and then I have power to the saw which is controlled with its own switch in the normal way.
Thanks. I added the reinforcement just to stiffen the frame that the column attaches to. The thought is just to help reduce any potential column/arm flex. This was something I saw someone do, but I didn’t quantify how much it helps. I figured it wouldn’t hurt!
I have a 1960’s model 1200 Dewalt RAS and the motor runs for 10 seconds then blows the fuse at the. Plug (not motor). I’ve replaced the bearings and start capacitor. Any thoughts on what to do next?
Don Horst Go to Google and search for “DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum” and you’ll easily find it. It’s hosted on a site called Delphi. You’ll have to create an account, but it’s free. A great place to learn all kinds of things about your saw or to get answers to your questions.
Yep, just as intimidating as I remember it as a 10-year-old, helping pops rip 4x8 sheets on this. I don't remember ours having that anti-kickback bar. Are those available?
Thanks for the comment. Missing rip pawls can be tough to find because many people stored them in drawers and they got separated from the saws. If you're patient, you can still find them on ebay. I actually made the one shown on this saw. You do need the pawl to safely rip on a RAS! BTW, not intimidating to rip on a RAS if you know how to do it correctly and safely!
Brian, your videos are my go to for my current restoration project of my mbf203. I was wondering if you would please send me some up close pictures of how you ran the led lights?
I have a separate video on the LED lights. Please let me know if this shows what you are looking for… ruclips.net/video/6YC3EUyZK4E/видео.htmlsi=wNXI5zDYXwuy8keN
Wow,incredible build,I have a 9 inch Mbf and she is in great condition,the base was a little rusted so I used corroseal on it then rustolem paint,the rest of the machine is in very good condition.my question is how can I identify other machines with the larger motor,there are quite a few of these in my area .which line or years should I look for that the yoke would fit in the Mbf ways? Thanx so much for these videos,there was a lot to learn about this machine,It was given to me because the elderly gent that was using it hurt himself with it and I was asked to get rid of it,glad I kept it,very solid tool,had it in storage for 10 years and now it's an everyday tool,anyway thanx again
Thanks. In general, my opinion is that if you want a larger motor, you're really better off getting a bigger saw (e.g., GWI or 1030 for 10", or even bigger). A bigger saw has other advantages too (larger column and the ability to raise the height more). In order to put the larger motor on a 9" MBF, you need to cannibalize two other saws. Basically, you need a yoke from a 925. But that saw is probably as good or better than an MBF as is. I got my motor from a 770/7770. In my case, I already a yoke from a dead 925. I'm not a fan of destroying working saws to make the hybrid as shown.
Thanks. I used 5630 SMD 300 LEDs that you can find on eBay for cheap. They have self adhesive and can be cut to length. A 12 VDC power supply and you’re all set.
Great job. Enjoy your videos and copied some of your work. Was using my 12 inch "modern" Italian built De Walt Radial arm saw with Mr Sawdust table this afternoon. Good, but not the saw that the AMF De Walt is.
Fabulous restoration with incredible attention to detail! What model saw does the larger motor come from? Do you see a significant increase in cutting performance with the larger motor?
Thank you. The motor was from a 7770. However, that will not fit the MBF yoke directly. You also need a larger yoke (e.g., 925). Therefore, I do not recommend doing what I did here since you need parts from multiple saws (I already had access to spare parts from dead saws). You are much better off just getting a larger saw to begin with. For example a 790/7790 would have an even more powerful motor and can take up to a 12” blade. There are disadvantages putting the larger motor on my MBF (less column height and arm length). It was fun to do, but not really enough improvement to justify the effort (I’m still just using a 9” blade on the saw).
@@brianweekley5700 Explanation much appreciated, thanks. I like the compact size of my MBF, just wish it had more oomph. Is there an even larger motor/carriage that might make the conversion worthwhile?
Eric Killorin An even larger motor from something like a 1030 or the 790 is much heavier. The column diameter and arm on those saws are also much larger than the MBF to handle them. The MBF (3/4 hp) isn’t designed to carry that weight and you’re going to get arm sag. That’s why you’re really better off just getting one of the larger saws like the DeWalt GWI or 1030 (about 1.5 hp) or the 790/7790 (about 2 hp-the largest consumer-sized.saw with a 5/8 inch arbor). A DeWalt GP is a great saw (2-3 hp with a 1 inch arbor), which looks like a MBF on steroids. Note that the upgraded motor I added here is really only about 1 hp (not the “developed hp” that was reported on later model saws as a sales gimmick). Also consider that you’re just going to lose working capacity with those larger motors because you can’t raise the arm on the MBF as high or might not have the clearance to rotate the motor for bevels, etc.
Eric Killorin Sounds very interesting? That would probably be much better than the router attachment that DeWalt made. I’d love to see what you come up with!
I like the LED idea. I recently was gifted this saw. I need to replace the four roller bearings in the yoke. Are they still available? If so where can I find them? Once again nice job on the restoration.
Thanks. It’s extremely rare that you ever need to replace the yoke bearings. They don’t get worn out-the grease simply dries out or gets dirty with sawdust. Just remove them and soak with PB Blaster and spin them-they will free up and spin smooth again. Consider joining the “DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum”. There are many helpful people online who can help with any questions you might have about restoration, use, or tips regarding your saw.
My son in law bought a DeWalt radial arm saw at auction I went with him to get it, it was a door manufacturing company they used the saw to cut aluminium, the thing is one of the largest radial arm saws I have seen, it is heavy we had a forklift to load it on the trailer, it has a 5 hp motor,when you shut it off it takes 5 minutes to stop, it has numerous 20 inch blades and can cross cut 48 inches don't know what year maybe find the serial number and try to find out
Very nice and congrats! Those large DeWalts are beasts! The long spin down time indicates it needs new motor bearings (the grease dries out after all those years and no longer has viscosity). Join the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum-it’s a great place to answers to any questions you may have about your saw. Based on the serial number, we can probably get you the year it was made.
Sure. If you click “about” on my RUclips page, you should be able to send me an email. However, I’m currently traveling so my response may be delayed. Also, if you join the DeWalt radial arm saw forum, there are many people who can offer advise about what to look for or avoid.
Fantastic work Brian. I have a 57 MBF as well that I plan on restoring one of these days. It's very clean and basically just needs new bearings, maybe a new capacitor, and a new table. I really like your addition of the frame 236 motor. I might do the same if I can find one. Is that "MBF Super" front plate something that you custom made? Or was that actually a thing?
Thank you, Tommy. The "MBF Super" was a decal I custom made. Just having a little fun with the Frankensaw theme. Having the brake with the 236 motor is nice, but I think it's really better just to get a larger saw. Did you ever get a GP--I know you were looking for one? I have a 1030 that's been waiting a long time for restoration--that's another future project (when I get time).
@@brianweekley5700 Ah, that explains it. That decal looks great and very official! Yes, I do have a GP that's also patiently waiting for a restore job. That one is a little iffy since the back of the arm is cracked and will need to be brazed (same thing Bruce did). But I do want to get that one up and running sooner than later.
Well Brian, my MBF is up and running. After I build a table for our new kitchen, I'm gonna try and replicate your fine work. So, my 925 will fit this saw I deducing?
Hi Dale, not sure I understand your question. If you are asking if the 925 yoke and motor will fit the MBF, yes it will. However, if you have a working MBF and 925, you’re better off keeping them as two separate saws. You don’t gain anything-the 925 itself is a better saw than the MBF. In my case, I had leftover parts from incomplete saws. If I already had a working 925, I would have kept it that way.
Hey brother, don’t know how to read, or what? LOL. I try to avoid obnoxious music, keep my videos concise, and use as few words as possible. Would you prefer verbal dialog? Thanks for the feedback.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Love the LED lighting you put under the arm at 4:38. What a great idea.
Glad you like it!
Found one on the side of the road yesterday - what a gut buster getting it up into the back of my van by myself - Thanks for Sharing
The old DeWalts are great saws! The heavy, cast iron makes for a sturdy machine. If you haven't seen it already, check out my video on how to adjust it. Tune it up and make sawdust!
Thank you very much for all your help and videos , really great to be able to ask someone with so much experience.
Thanks!
You don't talk alot. I've got one of those saws, and it's still in good shape. I love old tools. They were built, and built to be used. It's unreal how beefy they were made for the home shop. And, they have a craftsman look in design. Good job
Nope--I don't talk a lot, but hope it's still helpful! Yes, those old DeWalts are fantastic machines with a classic look.
@@brianweekley5700 oh yeah, it was helpful. I was just kidding. Thanks
Great job. Love it. The LED's are an amazing addition.
Thank you very much! It's a great saw and was a fun project.
Beautiful Job, nice to see pride in workmanship and attention to detail. Only thing I would consider: panic stop switch and a spring or weighted return for safety purposes.
Thank you and I appreciate the comment. I don't use spring returns because they make it very hard to adjust the yoke when you need to set the blade or molding head distance (ripping and molding operations). However, they are certainly good if you only use the saw for crosscuts. The saw is level and the yoke bearings are properly set where it takes 4-6 lbs of deliberate force to move it. Therefore, there's no risk the carriage will walk across the table unexpectedly. A panic switch is a good idea that I've considered, but haven't determined the best location for one--especially considering the many user positions when working on a RAS.
Great info for me Dewalt R1350.
Fence is still adjustable on the table saw, and the cabinet it sits in has a fence that matches the Rip Out setup so you can rip 24” wide stock.
Thanks so much for your replies
You are the man. Love and table extensions. And the LEDs...are you kidding me?? Fabulous!
Thank you very much!
I have an old dewalt radial saw and I was going to give it away but with everything Ive seen here.. Its resparked an intrerest to a tool I honestly didnt really know about. this weekend Im going to build a proper bench for my 50 year old saw. I cant wait to reuse it. thanks to you and every other video ive seen that has rekindel my love for this saw
Thanks. I find a RAS worth using. It’s very versatile and doesn’t take up a lot of space. Good luck with yours!
Its a great saw and looks amazing, I have the 16 inch model I got from Lindsey lumber went they sold off everything. Had it for 40 years now and still cuts perfect.
Thanks. A 16 inch saw is a beast!
@@brianweekley5700 yeah i would never part with it
Beautiful job, Brian; lovingly restored. And another excellent video! I like that you were able to substitute the Frame 236 motor into the arm. Congratulations - this saw will serve you well and can be passed to the next generation.
Thanks, Rush. Now I can start thinking about the 1030 packed away in the back of my garage.
@@brianweekley5700 Ah, the fun never ends. Is this a round arm 1030?
@@rushtonpaul1754 Of course, I just love the look of them. The second cart is waiting for it!
I like it!! That's a beautiful saw and your skill and attention for detail shows.
Thanks. Yes, a little OCD. I've had lots of time to think about all the things I wanted to do to it.
Great information, I wonder how you attach the extension wings to the main table?
Check out my video on making extension tables. It shows how they are connected to the RAS table. ruclips.net/video/Doa3Bnus5r8/видео.htmlsi=0TkbxbG4UEajxXHb
Thank you!
Well Done thanks for the tips Upgrading the Motor was a very smart thing to do those Factory motors under any type of Stress or long use would always overheat and trip the breaker as a Teenager the same make and Model was my Dads Primary Shop Saw we used it to break down Sheet Goods and doing Rips on it were a chore
Thanks. Although I put a larger motor on this saw, I wouldn’t do that again. It’s better to just get a larger, more powerful saw to begin with. The larger saws have greater capacity and are beefier to carry the larger motors.
Would love those decals! I'm restoring a 56 at the moment.
Someone on the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw was making those decals and sent me one. Sorry, I don't remember who that was. However, I found a guy on eBay who makes vinyl decals for reasonable price. I've sent him graphics and he's make a few for me. His name is Rob and he goes by "silverballdesigns" on eBay.
There's just something about the round arm saws, they have charm like most old machines do. The LEDs are a really slick touch.
Totally agree--they have the look. BTW, love the fast back on your channel. That's a beauty!
@@brianweekley5700 thank you, I had a lot of fun with that old girl. One day will have another.
I got a old craftsman I want to restore thanks for the video.
Thanks. Good luck with your saw. BTW, consider joining the “DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum”. It’s a great resource for any questions about your saw (restoration, use, etc.). Doesn’t matter if you have a Craftsman-many people on the site do..
very good work of reconditioning and tuning
Thank you. It was a fun project and a great saw.
That's GREAT!!! I bought same model like you have for $100.00. I will rebuild it soon. Keep working on it!
I have many radial arm saw related videos you might be interested in.
I'm curious where you got the cord strain reliefs for your saw, I am completely restoring one just like it
Thanks for the question. I think my strain reliefs were Heyco M4812 and M4912. Since they are intended for panel mount in sheet metal, I used epoxy to glue them in place. I know others have found very similar ones at McMaster, but I don't know the part numbers offhand. Good luck with your restoration!
@@brianweekley5700 thanks so much, the videos are awesome I believe that I have watched the restoration one 20 times and am completely painting mine just like yours, I'm excited for this saw as the only ras I have had has been an in accurate craftsman. I probably should have taken more time with the craftsman but always seem as if the blade shook as it was cutting and never a perfect cut. This dewalt seems like it's the ticket
glenn gulley Thanks. Please check out some of my other RAS videos. You may find the one on how to align/calibrate the RAS useful.
Is there a way to adjust the arm just a little so it’s square to fence?
Yea, there are adjustment screws to make the arm square to the fence. I show that in my calibration video.
Beautiful saw, well done.
Thank you very much! It was a fun project and it's a great saw.
I have that same Radial arm saw. I haven't started the restore yet. I'm mostly just nervous about starting.
It's an awesome saw! Just make sure you use penetrating fluid and don't force anything. Be aware of the "dog point" screw that keeps the king bolt on the yoke from turning. You definitely don't want that one to break that or you're in big trouble (almost impossible to remove if you do). If you haven't done so already, lookup the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum on the internet. It's a great source to ask questions and get advice on anything RAS related. Lots of FAQs to read.
Mine looks that good without restoration (almost). The person who owned it, you could tell they loved it. The serial number places it in 58 or 59. I love it too and hope someone will use it after me..
They are great machines. They don’t make many tools these days with that machining and quality.
This is my favorite model from Dewalt.
Agree. It's definitely a classic.
I can't get enough of these Dewalt RAS videos, articles and photos. I love them but am not as talented at aesthetic restoration as you are. At ~1:35 you featured a "bleeder resistor" newly soldered across your start capacitor - what is that for ? The motor on my model GP doesn't have that, do I need one? and why?
Thanks Brian.
I think the purpose of the resistor is just to bleed the capacitor so it doesn’t hold a high voltage charge for long after it’s needed-possibly for safety? However, my understanding is that not all motors have the resistor. I simply replaced the resistor that was already on mine when I installed a new capacitor.
I see the small jar of red enamel in the video but I can’t see the specific color you used. Can you share?
If you’re talking about the Testors model paint, I just checked and there is no color or code listed on the label. All I can say is that it’s “red”. LOL!
im looking to rewire mine any help on the connecters you used and strain relief thing. were can one find these? thanks
The strain reliefs were from Heyco (I don't remember the sizes, but here's a link): www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/184/Snap_In_Strain_Relief-1133532.pdf
You can also find similar ones at McMaster. I think the connectors (to disconnect the motor) were Leviton ML1-P & C.
Brian, very inspiring work ! what is the 2nd, larger motor that you are swapping to???
Thanks. It’s a Frame 236 motor from a DeWalt 7770. However, I don’t recommend doing that because you also need a larger yoke to fit it. I just happened to have the parts to put it together, but I always tell people you’re better off just getting a larger saw!
@@brianweekley5700 duly noted! i got the MBF and will start making it beautiful again, but i'm already interested in a bigger saw that is the "early DeWalt" prior to B&D. Have an opinion on which one to look for?
@@hammondgarage3011 If you're looking for an older, larger saw, the GWI or 1030 are very desirable (about 1.5 hp). However, the DeWalt 790 or 7790 is the largest consumer-sized saw you can buy (with a 5/8 inch arbor). Even though it may be B&D branded, that is still a quality saw with full cast-iron arm and a great motor (it was cheapened like the smaller saws with the plastic top arms).
Thank you for sharing this video. Where did you find the replacement bearings and capacitor?
Thank you. I purchased bearings from The Accurate Bearing Company and the capacitor from McMaster-Carr. I strongly suggest joining the “DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum”. It’s a great resource to get information about using and restoring your saw.
@@brianweekley5700 Thank you for the information. I have joined and will be searching the threads.
@@michaelcoonfield3626 Lots of good info in the FAQs section. The folks there will gladly answer any question. It’s a great forum!
Hey Brian, I have two of these I use daily. And another waiting for me to decide which direction to go with it. All three of mine are MB's. two are '54's, and the onein pieces, I can't recall. It is the dark bluish color, while my dailys are the same green as yours.
One of my daily saws I turned into a 'beam' saw by fabing an aluminum T-slot table and attaching a bracket to the front of the table to the end of the radial arm. I took off the end cap, and placed a plate of 0.50" aluminum with half rounds on each side. On the bracket, attached to the table, which is an artistic inverted V, (curved with rounded edges), I mount four bearings with half-round convex bearings on shoulder bolts. The bearings ride on the rounded edge of the plate, allowing vertical movement, but restricting rotation. I have a friction locking assy I designed to lock the arm, at any given height.
One of the great things, is nothing of the original saw is drilled, or changed. THe saw could reverted to original, at any time.
The only difference from using it as a normal RAS, is I push the saw head, rather than pull. Plus, I use the T-slots &/or several different vises to hold material. I use both carbide toothed blades and 1/32" thick abrasive blades I get from MSC.
The reason for the 'push', is to prevent blade climb. When I first fired it up, and pulled the saw head, the arm was not up for the force of the saw blade wanting to climb on the material, even when I had it lock. It was a violent experience, unless I move the blade in 0.001's of an inch per minute! When I push, the blade pulls down, and all is good.
The saw was an answer to a dilemma I had. I was starting to manufacture a brake conversion kit, and needed to make a square 37' cut, for alignment of the mount on the vehicle and correct brake caliper alignment. I went through all of the methods of cutting both aluminum and steel, and there was no process available to give me the cut. All methods required milling to get both the square, and the precise angle.
If I bought a mill, the kits were not worth selling, if I paid someone, they weren't worth making, either.
I am glad every day I bought the DeWalt for 50.00 and made this saw. I have made SO many tools, parts and devices since I had the ability to make quick, square, SAFE cuts in alum, steel, and hardened steel. Think of the tooling you pass up because it has a threaded, tapered, SDS, or brace & bit shank. Now, I by them for pennies, and cut the end off.
If you are interested in seeing my build journal with pics, I should have my website back up in the next few weeks, (I got virus attacked, and have quarantined everything, until I get it cleaned out.). WHen the site's back up, I can come back and post the URL,if you want to take a look.
I just added an LED alignment light to my metal saw, as a test. eBay for ~12.00, and with two layers of aluminum tape, it fits right in the hole for the kick back pawl.
I have also added a fix for the slick metal of the blade guard adjustment on both saws. I also have a how to on my site, for that. I used some bike inner tube, a chrome fender washer, and a big wing nut. Now, when I adjust the guard, it doesn't flop out of control, as soon as any tension is released. The first time I dented some expensive wood, on my other saw, I fixed that. I'm sure you can relate. LOL
Gotta get back to it, was just looking up a bearing number for the DeWalt, and your vid came up, and got me sidetracked.
GeoD
Sounds very interesting. I’d love to see what you came up with. I’m sure you’ve seen the beam saws that are made by the Original Saw Company. So, making one out of two vintage saws are is intriguing. I once saw somebody bolt to arms together (where the end caps are) to increase the crosscut capacity, but I just can’t imagine having that much weight extended off of one column. By all means, post your website when available. Thanks!
What a great job! How wide is the table and the extensions?
Thank you. The main table is 37" wide and the extensions are about 60" wide. I make "Mr. Sawdust" style tables. I highly suggest the book "How to Master the Radial Arm Saw" by Wally Kunkel. He describes the way to make perfectly flat, awesome tables for the RAS.
Do know how to lubricate a dewalt 1350 for doing miter cuts left to right , my is so stiff
You shouldn't have to lubricate the arm for miters (or are you referring to bevels). I assume you are releasing the miter clamp to move the arm, yes? It is reverse threaded (i.e., you have to pull the lever towards you to release the miter clamp and push back to tighten it). In general, we don't typically cut left-hand miters on a RAS. Instead, it's better to use the "broken fence method" or a "flying wing jig". I'll provide some links to some relevant videos below. BTW, I have a separate video that describes how to setup/calibrate your radial arm saw that may help.
Broken fence method: ruclips.net/video/1wZhrAvtPWc/видео.htmlsi=jpSRLyXCF1r_RVEY
Flying Wing Jig: ruclips.net/video/Rw9jPK5jPwI/видео.htmlsi=7YjE8WVoPPsr1Vyw
How to Setup/Calibrate Your Saw: ruclips.net/video/EQ_HXSuh1PU/видео.htmlsi=lSOLzOKv5wV88f_j
The arm clamp maybe too tight or corrosion has set in. Some nut buster and gentle taps with a rubber hammer will get it moving. Just keep spraying and exercise the arm back and forth. Buy the Mr. Sawdust book or get copy of the Dewalt owners' manual.
I have a mbf and a 925dlx. I have an chance to get a early version of the 790. All 110v. All in great condition. I will probably only keep 2. Which of these 3 would be your first and 2nd choice?
Is the mbf known for holding its adjustments the best?
That’s a tough call-they are all great saws! The 790/7790 were the most powerful, 5/8” arbor, consumer-sized saws made by DeWalt. It’s an excellent saw that can easily swing a 12” blade when needed (some were available with 12” blade guards). For overall power and capacity, that’s the best of the three. The 925 is every bit as good as the MBF, but has a better TEFC motor (with a brake). Both work best with an 8” blade. However, the MBF definitely has the cool factor (it’s a beautiful saw). It all depends what you want to use them for. Molding or cutting 1x pine, the MBF or 925 works fine. If you want to routinely rip 2x hardwood, definitely the 790. I’d be hard pressed choosing which one to get rid of and would most likely keep all three!
Fantastic job on the restore. I have a 57 mbf. Trying to replace the capacitor but finding it hard to identify the capacitor i need to replace it with. Any info on rating or part number or source ?
Sorry, I don't remember what it was off hand. If you post on the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum, I'm sure someone can give you the capacitance for the MBF motor..
awesome job. i have a Dewalt 1400 and rebuilt a GWI. havent had to finsih it . just needs the table. love the LED lights. excellent idea. I saw your 2nd motor and arm. i did some research. PLease correct me if I am wrong. the motor is from a Dewalt 770 and the housing is from a 925.
That's correct. However, I don't recommend scavenging from two other saws for an MBF like I did (I already had the extra parts). You're better off just getting a larger machine to begin with and you'll be much happier. The MBF arm isn't sized to carry the added weight and has a lower height capacity column with that combination. A 925 is a better saw than the MBF in the first place.
ruclips.net/video/D-xHJ0ZxZEQ/видео.html
If that saw was a woman, it would be a super model. What a gorgeous piece of machinery.
Thanks. She is a beauty and my wife is jealous.
I know this is an old video but where’d you find the beefier motor?
I had an extra 236 motor from a broken saw that someone had put out for trash. However, you also need a larger yoke to hold it. It's really not preferred to build a "Frankensaw". I highly recommend just getting a larger, more powerful saw. You'll be happier off in the long run (greater cut capacities and a larger arm to support it). I wouldn't have made one unless I already had the parts from other broken saws.
What did you use for paint? That looks really close
I used Rustoleum Sea Green multi-textured paint. It’s more blue than the original. It does leave a very textured surface. It looks good, but I’d probably prefer a smoother finish enamel if I did it again. If you choose to use it, definitely finish with several coats of high gloss.
@@brianweekley5700 I just got a original owner MBC in really good condition for $40. I'll be really examining your videos for info on restoring it. I'm so thankful that you made these. My wife isn't happy with me. I now have 4 RAS. Maybe I need a 12 step program?
@@littleshopofsawdust1157 Nice score! As you know, the MBC is rather underpowered, but it’s a quality saw and sounds like it’s in good condition. It works well for 1x material and excellent for molding/shaping work. You have to have more than one! Good luck with your restoration.
Awesome job!! Would love this in my shop!! I love dewalt and used to use an old larger commercial model. 14" or 16"
Thanks. I love this saw. It’s a lot of fun to use! I have a 1030 that I just got up and running and hope to post a video of that one soon.
so I bought one of these recently and absolutely love the thing, only one problem. No brake. With dado blades in it, it spins for ever. Is there anything I can do to add a brake?
If it’s taking forever to spin down, that’s a sure sign that the motor bearings are shot (after 50 years, the grease dries up and there’s no resistance left). If you replace the motor bearings, you will find it will stop much quicker! I strongly suggest joining the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum. On their webpage (FAQs), there’s much info about how to correctly change the motor bearings (it’s not too difficult to do, but you need to read how first or you could break the delicate fan). DeWalt once offered an electric brake for these saws, but they are rare. Again, on the DeWalt Forum, there are some instructions on how to make your own electric brake if you are so inclined.
@@brianweekley5700 your the best! thanks for getting back to me. Several times I've thought about getting rid of it and just picking up one of the craftsman ones that are out there for $100 or so. But I just love the form factor of these 50's dewalts. I'd love to get it working so I can rely on it for dados on bookshelves.
@@jeromestsauver Your cast iron DeWalt is a much better and higher quality saw than a Craftsman.
I'm picking up another MBF this week - hopefully it's in better condition than the other two. I already have!? Question, what sort of power cord wire did you use when rewiring them?
I use SJOOW. Just check the gauge and replace with same size.
I'd like to use that textured sea green paint too, but every place I've looked, they don't have it. Also, could you tell us where you got the reproduction decals?
I found the Rustoleum textured paint at my local Walmart. It does take a number of cans. For the labels, I found Rob at silverballdesigns.com who prints very nice vinyl decals for a great price. If you provide a high resolution graphic, he will print it for you. You can find the DeWalt high resolution graphics at vintagemachinery.com or post a question on the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum and someone will help you find one.
@@brianweekley5700 I guess that green textured paint just isn't even available anymore, not even on rustoleum's own website. I ended up just painting it what Krylon calls sea green glass and what 94 paint calls paris green as they're identical. Rustoluem still has textured paint, just not in green of any shade, lol. The sea green/paris green is sort of similar to the 60's DeWalt saws...or maybe closer to a 60's mint green chevy truck...in any event, I'll live with it, lol.
That’s a shame if they discontinued Sea Green. I just sent an email to Rustoleum and asked if they did discontinue it.
Did the motor you installed have an automatic brake? What model of saw did the motor come off of? What was the amperage difference?
The original frame 156 motor is 9.8 amps and the newer, frame 236 motor is 11 amps (with automatic brake). Not that big of an amp difference, but the frame 236 is a much better built motor. It came off a broken 7770. Note this conversion is not plug and play (will not fit the original yoke)! However, I happened to already additional parts (larger yoke) available from another dead saw to put this hybrid together, I don’t recommend destroying multiple working saws to create the hybrid in this video. It is far better to just get a bigger saw with a stronger motor (e.g., GWI, 1030, 790/7790, etc), The bigger saws also have larger tables, cut capacity, and larger columns to support heavier motors.
What did you use to affix the led lighting? I had a strip I bought many years ago and the adhesive dried up. I tried a bit of epoxy but it didn't work. Would CA glue work?
I cleaned up the underneath of the arm thoroughly prior to trying. But it wouldn't work. My old eyes need the extra light! Lol
@@Kathyskollectables Try double-sided Gorilla tape. You might have to cut it, but that stuff is amazing!
Where did you get the bearings for the motor?
I bought mine from the Accurate Bearing Company. However, they are common sizes and can easily be found online or at local motor repair shops.
Brian I appreciate your channel and value your input. I have Built Mr Sawdust table like what you have and had a question. To mount it do you use screws up from bottom or recessed bolt?
I modified an old 10’ cabinet so I can have built in support for long pieces. In alignment of the fence of the saw to cabinet fence, I think the 3/4 fence furthest back would be what the cabinet fence would be the best way to line it up?
Thanks for any thoughts as can’t upload a picture to help you understand.
Sorry, not sure I completely follow. First, what saw do you have? Mounting the table will vary depending on the saw and model. If you have a model with L-brackets, the table might be attached to the brackets with screws from below. If you have a model with steel bars, the table is bolted on with countersunk bolts/machine screws.
Fences are designed to be removable (held in place with clamps). Therefore, you don’t want to permanently mount a fence in a large table. There are many reasons to move it depending on the operation. I have several videos that describe how RAS tables work and how to setup and adjust a RAS. I also suggest joining the “DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum” where you can find a lot of information and a great place to ask questions.
A few links that may be helpful:
ruclips.net/video/Q1cc-_vPT0w/видео.htmlsi=JIGE-fAlG1U9APLv
ruclips.net/video/_e5yQC_i7mI/видео.htmlsi=Grcca-uSd5WfMObx
ruclips.net/video/EQ_HXSuh1PU/видео.htmlsi=gj27duhQ3ilSj1kN
Really nice job. Quick question regarding the bearings that allow the
motor to roll so nicely on the arm. How did you remove the roller
bearings that didnt have a nut that you can see? I tried removing mine
to clean them but the bolt just kept turning but never backed itself
out. Any pointers is much appreciated! Thanks!
What saw model do you have? If you separate the yoke (remove the king bolt), you should be able to access the bearing nuts underneath. You may need a punch to drive the shafts out. Make sure you know how to properly remove the king bolt. Some saws have a dog point screw and others have a star-type washer with a tab that can be easily broken off. However, you can probably clean the bearings in place (spray some PB Blaster on them and turn). They should free up nicely.
@@brianweekley5700 Thank you, sir! I have the same model as you do. Thank you and again, your saw turned out amazing. Congrats!
Michael Snow Then yours should have a dog point screw in the side of the yoke. Once that is removed, you should be able to unscrew the king bolt and separate the parts. It’s about 2” long or so. Put some penetrating oil on it for a day or two before you remove it. I’ve heard that if it breaks, you’re in big trouble-almost impossible to remove it and too hard to drill out. Good luck, it’s a great little saw.
I just bought a 56 without looking at it . The end of the arm was broken so it went into the steel bin . That kind of break and you can't trust anything. I'm hoping to find another one. It did come with a very nice like new blade cover guard if anyone is interested 😎
That’s a shame. Hopefully you were able to save the motor and other useful pieces.
@@brianweekley5700 it was really beat up. It's still in the bin. The stand was even bent . It would take a lot to pull the motor. It was a 16" . I think Home Depot in their cut department has a 16" Delta . It's set to only cross cut 🙄. I said to the guy " Wouldn't it be cool to set it for a rip and split a 6x6 " ❓ He said " Definitely❗ but we're not allowed to " .😎
I have one of these saws to donate in working condition. I am in southern california
If you want it to go to someone who will appreciate it, post it on the “DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum”. I’m sure someone would buy it or love to have it to restore.
@@brianweekley5700 thanks, finally posting today
Great restoration! Would love to know how you got the led lights to work of the on switch . I’m U.K. 240 v. Supply single phase like yours. I’ve the modern DW 721 model. If you were able to assist my lighting to the table I’d be grateful, but only if you’ve got the time.
Every blessing
Peter
Thanks! I use a separate junction box (with a switch) that I plug both the saw and the LED transformer into. It serves as an extra safety shutoff to the saw when I change blades. Therefore, when I flip that switch on, the lights come on and then I have power to the saw which is controlled with its own switch in the normal way.
@@brianweekley5700 many thanks Brian.
Brian, great job as always. Question, did you add the extra reinforcement to the frame for the heavier motor?
Thanks. I added the reinforcement just to stiffen the frame that the column attaches to. The thought is just to help reduce any potential column/arm flex. This was something I saw someone do, but I didn’t quantify how much it helps. I figured it wouldn’t hurt!
I have a 1960’s model 1200 Dewalt RAS and the motor runs for 10 seconds then blows the fuse at the. Plug (not motor). I’ve replaced the bearings and start capacitor. Any thoughts on what to do next?
I suggest joining the "DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum". Lots of knowledgeable folks who might be able to help sort out the problem.
@@brianweekley5700 thanks Brian! Where is this forum? RUclips? Or somewhere else?
Don Horst Go to Google and search for “DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum” and you’ll easily find it. It’s hosted on a site called Delphi. You’ll have to create an account, but it’s free. A great place to learn all kinds of things about your saw or to get answers to your questions.
Yep, just as intimidating as I remember it as a 10-year-old, helping pops rip 4x8 sheets on this. I don't remember ours having that anti-kickback bar. Are those available?
Thanks for the comment. Missing rip pawls can be tough to find because many people stored them in drawers and they got separated from the saws. If you're patient, you can still find them on ebay. I actually made the one shown on this saw. You do need the pawl to safely rip on a RAS! BTW, not intimidating to rip on a RAS if you know how to do it correctly and safely!
Brian, your videos are my go to for my current restoration project of my mbf203. I was wondering if you would please send me some up close pictures of how you ran the led lights?
I have a separate video on the LED lights. Please let me know if this shows what you are looking for…
ruclips.net/video/6YC3EUyZK4E/видео.htmlsi=wNXI5zDYXwuy8keN
Very nicely done!
Thank you.
Wow,incredible build,I have a 9 inch Mbf and she is in great condition,the base was a little rusted so I used corroseal on it then rustolem paint,the rest of the machine is in very good condition.my question is how can I identify other machines with the larger motor,there are quite a few of these in my area .which line or years should I look for that the yoke would fit in the Mbf ways? Thanx so much for these videos,there was a lot to learn about this machine,It was given to me because the elderly gent that was using it hurt himself with it and I was asked to get rid of it,glad I kept it,very solid tool,had it in storage for 10 years and now it's an everyday tool,anyway thanx again
Thanks. In general, my opinion is that if you want a larger motor, you're really better off getting a bigger saw (e.g., GWI or 1030 for 10", or even bigger). A bigger saw has other advantages too (larger column and the ability to raise the height more). In order to put the larger motor on a 9" MBF, you need to cannibalize two other saws. Basically, you need a yoke from a 925. But that saw is probably as good or better than an MBF as is. I got my motor from a 770/7770. In my case, I already a yoke from a dead 925. I'm not a fan of destroying working saws to make the hybrid as shown.
Brian, love the lights. Where did you get the??
Thanks. I used 5630 SMD 300 LEDs that you can find on eBay for cheap. They have self adhesive and can be cut to length. A 12 VDC power supply and you’re all set.
@@brianweekley5700
Very helpful
Thanks!!
Great job. Enjoy your videos and copied some of your work. Was using my 12 inch "modern" Italian built De Walt Radial arm saw with Mr Sawdust table this afternoon. Good, but not the saw that the AMF De Walt is.
Thank you. I'm sure your 12" is a fine saw too.
Fabulous restoration with incredible attention to detail! What model saw does the larger motor come from? Do you see a significant increase in cutting performance with the larger motor?
Thank you. The motor was from a 7770. However, that will not fit the MBF yoke directly. You also need a larger yoke (e.g., 925). Therefore, I do not recommend doing what I did here since you need parts from multiple saws (I already had access to spare parts from dead saws). You are much better off just getting a larger saw to begin with. For example a 790/7790 would have an even more powerful motor and can take up to a 12” blade. There are disadvantages putting the larger motor on my MBF (less column height and arm length). It was fun to do, but not really enough improvement to justify the effort (I’m still just using a 9” blade on the saw).
@@brianweekley5700 Explanation much appreciated, thanks. I like the compact size of my MBF, just wish it had more oomph. Is there an even larger motor/carriage that might make the conversion worthwhile?
Eric Killorin An even larger motor from something like a 1030 or the 790 is much heavier. The column diameter and arm on those saws are also much larger than the MBF to handle them. The MBF (3/4 hp) isn’t designed to carry that weight and you’re going to get arm sag. That’s why you’re really better off just getting one of the larger saws like the DeWalt GWI or 1030 (about 1.5 hp) or the 790/7790 (about 2 hp-the largest consumer-sized.saw with a 5/8 inch arbor). A DeWalt GP is a great saw (2-3 hp with a 1 inch arbor), which looks like a MBF on steroids. Note that the upgraded motor I added here is really only about 1 hp (not the “developed hp” that was reported on later model saws as a sales gimmick).
Also consider that you’re just going to lose working capacity with those larger motors because you can’t raise the arm on the MBF as high or might not have the clearance to rotate the motor for bevels, etc.
@@brianweekley5700 Good points, thx. On a related matter, I'm modifying a gutted MBF motor casing to accept a modern router. Stay tuned!
Eric Killorin Sounds very interesting? That would probably be much better than the router attachment that DeWalt made. I’d love to see what you come up with!
I like the LED idea. I recently was gifted this saw. I need to replace the four roller bearings in the yoke. Are they still available? If so where can I find them? Once again nice job on the restoration.
Thanks. It’s extremely rare that you ever need to replace the yoke bearings. They don’t get worn out-the grease simply dries out or gets dirty with sawdust. Just remove them and soak with PB Blaster and spin them-they will free up and spin smooth again. Consider joining the “DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum”. There are many helpful people online who can help with any questions you might have about restoration, use, or tips regarding your saw.
My son in law bought a DeWalt radial arm saw at auction I went with him to get it, it was a door manufacturing company they used the saw to cut aluminium, the thing is one of the largest radial arm saws I have seen, it is heavy we had a forklift to load it on the trailer, it has a 5 hp motor,when you shut it off it takes 5 minutes to stop, it has numerous 20 inch blades and can cross cut 48 inches don't know what year maybe find the serial number and try to find out
Very nice and congrats! Those large DeWalts are beasts! The long spin down time indicates it needs new motor bearings (the grease dries out after all those years and no longer has viscosity). Join the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum-it’s a great place to answers to any questions you may have about your saw. Based on the serial number, we can probably get you the year it was made.
Brian, awesome restoration. I have a chance to pick a dewalt mbf and have some questions. Can I contact you for guidance on this purchase?
Sure. If you click “about” on my RUclips page, you should be able to send me an email. However, I’m currently traveling so my response may be delayed. Also, if you join the DeWalt radial arm saw forum, there are many people who can offer advise about what to look for or avoid.
Fantastic work Brian. I have a 57 MBF as well that I plan on restoring one of these days. It's very clean and basically just needs new bearings, maybe a new capacitor, and a new table. I really like your addition of the frame 236 motor. I might do the same if I can find one. Is that "MBF Super" front plate something that you custom made? Or was that actually a thing?
Thank you, Tommy. The "MBF Super" was a decal I custom made. Just having a little fun with the Frankensaw theme. Having the brake with the 236 motor is nice, but I think it's really better just to get a larger saw. Did you ever get a GP--I know you were looking for one? I have a 1030 that's been waiting a long time for restoration--that's another future project (when I get time).
@@brianweekley5700 Ah, that explains it. That decal looks great and very official! Yes, I do have a GP that's also patiently waiting for a restore job. That one is a little iffy since the back of the arm is cracked and will need to be brazed (same thing Bruce did). But I do want to get that one up and running sooner than later.
Looks Great!
Thanks!
Well Brian, my MBF is up and running. After I build a table for our new kitchen, I'm gonna try and replicate your fine work. So, my 925 will fit this saw I deducing?
Hi Dale, not sure I understand your question. If you are asking if the 925 yoke and motor will fit the MBF, yes it will. However, if you have a working MBF and 925, you’re better off keeping them as two separate saws. You don’t gain anything-the 925 itself is a better saw than the MBF. In my case, I had leftover parts from incomplete saws. If I already had a working 925, I would have kept it that way.
@@brianweekley5700 Roger, thanks. I AM impressed with the 925H. Solid.
@@WKYanks The 925 has a different look, but is a quality machine!
@@brianweekley5700 Yeah, I'm partial to my MBF. Such a great-looking saw!
I got one tha same 1957 i will restored too
It’s a good saw. Good luck with your restoration.
Outstanding!!!
Thanks!
Nice. Very NICE.
Thank you! Much appreciated.
Epic!!!
Thanks!
😍
Thanks!
Hey brother you don't know how to talk or what
Hey brother, don’t know how to read, or what? LOL. I try to avoid obnoxious music, keep my videos concise, and use as few words as possible. Would you prefer verbal dialog? Thanks for the feedback.