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Hello Alvin. You sure lucked out! Did you buy a loto ticket after that? On that chain guide, did the plastic pieces end up in the oil pan? Hope not. That's the biggest smile ever! George B

Good job! I stay away from engines with chains and guides but its looking like thats all they make these days. I think most shops stay away from these type of snowball crap shows. Even trying to get a good used engine is a nightmare not worth the hassle cept for maybe doing it on your own vehicle if you have the capability .

Congratulations and I'd bet a bunch of us know how you felt! Every now and then, we all deserve a little good fortune. Take care ~ Chuck

Did you ever readjust that steering wheel. I need to know how to do that

Hiya Alvin! I’ll definitely use that on some extra body parts on my ‘57. Thanks for reminding me there are other ways besides polycarbonate discs and media blasting. That is a lot less mess.

That worked out pretty good. I tried to use some chemical strippers on my brothers vw bug and they just didn’t work that well so I sand blasted. I was fortunate with my T-bird that most of the paint had faded away and sanding and blasting was faily easy. Looks like you have a lot of work ahead of you. Thanks for the product demo.

Going to base coat and clear coat? Or single stage paint. Clear coat is nice once you get the hang of it. Plus you need 2 part clear coat not the crappy cheap stuff that comes in a spray can, although Spray max has a 2k two part clear in a can but has not much shelf life once activated.

hi Alvin, I follow a Canadian furniture restorer on YT, John's furniture repair, and she gets excellent results with a stripper made by the swing paint co only available in Canada and I think easy to find in Canada. the stripper is called circa 1850 paint stripper and is thin so easily sprayable though she usually applies by brush. perhaps that would pull up the red oxide primer. carry on. thanks

Hello Alvin. That stuff works real well. I bought the same brand but gel type that didn't seem to work as well as what you just showed. I found that the aircraft paint remover in spray form worked very well, but it's pricey. Thanks for showing! That fender looks like the best part of the car. George B

Thank you for the tip, that worked better than I imagined (I've heard the new stuff isn't as good). Many, many, years ago I helped a friend strip a front end he had bought. We had the same experience with the red oxide factory primer. He said - "we've hit it with stripper, scraped it, and cleaned it. If it's still hanging on like this, I say we scuff it, prime it, and paint it". The parts looked great for the next several years he owned it. Once again, many thanks to ~ Chuck

フレアーバーズ 4代目

27:00 Cant stress enough to check or at least, use a bit of heat and flux to Re-Melt the Solder joins to the Coil windings .. Believe it or not "Dry Solder joints" Can exist and are easily Fixed, before throwing away good windings .. IMO ... Otherwise Good Investigation and teaching 👍👍

Fantastic video! 6.1 SRT had the exact same issue. Replaced 4k+ in parts before finding this PCM video.

I guess I need to pull mine out and take a look at them. I'm sure they're brittle and this will be helpful info. Another great idea for these old car projects

Hey Alvin, excellent repair idea. Now I want to see what you do for the broken vinyl at the hand grip. Those are much harder to fix. My drivers door panel has a crack at the grip and the original owner put matching tape over the crack that is still there. I cant believe it lasted that long. Otherwise they are in pretty good condition. The mylar stuff is also a great idea. The original paper is always missing, always. Sometimes I use plastic and I use caulk to hold it like original. Its not so messy. If the carpet is also coming off, I guess one could resin both sides and then glue the carpet back to the door panel. Theres always more than one issue. Thanks Alvin, great job and great tip for people.

Brilliant.

Thank you as always. I’m intrigued with that Mylar product. Appreciate the education ~ Chuck

A real good tip that can be used on many older vehicle door cards etc etc. Thx Alvin

Hello Alvin. A real nice fix on the door panel. I used the same technique on the headliner roof panels on my 66 Landau. Thanks again for the tips. George B

Hiya Alvin!! Well I’ll be dipped! I’m the putz who has to either chisel with a putty knife or pocket knife to get the remnants off my clamping tools. That’s a real good tip! And the fiber glass resin is also a fantastic idea! Thanks for the tip my friend!! And as always, I look forward to your next video.

Nice tip Alvin. And inexpensive repair - fix.But then "Fix" is in the shops name. Walt

Glad I don't have the vac lock, do you have a video for sequential taillights on a '65?

I know I’m late to the party but genus! Thank you

I like how the crouse control works on these cars. Not an easy task but you got it working

You are absolutely the man. Everything you said was true. Made this job do able for the average home mechanic. Thank you.

You skipped a key part and that's installing the shift lever in the proper position I wish you showed that in your video I'm having issues trying to get mine right.

What size bolts are they? Looking for replacements for my 65 galaxie 352

Well done. Thanks for showing us .

Nice job. You must have the only working T-Bird cruise control in existence.

Genius at work. The only 65 thunderbird cruise control that has worked since 1968. Lol. Good job.

Hello Alvin. That is so cool! George B

Just a brilliant video. Well done and thank you!

That cement etch sds says. 10.0 -30.0 % Phosphoric acid {Orthophosphoric acid} Isopropyl alcohol {sec-Propyl alcohol; IPA; 2-Propanol} 67-63-0 0.1 -1.0 % 68439-46-3 0.1 -1.0 % Alcohols, C9-11, ethoxyl

I'm a Jonny come lately but have been catching up on the convertible bird, and want to say you are amazing to watch with your capabilities. My love for convertibles is not as strong as yours. I might have bailed when the carpet came out but when your in it you can't quit . Be happy to see you drive it. I rebuilt a motor for my 64 bird, white exterior, red interior and loved it. When I got to the rocker arms I I put in new shafts and replaced a few of the rockers bushings along with new lifters. I ran a wire through the pushrods to remove old residue from oil. When the motor came to life there was no pecking or ticking. My bird was a hardtop. The car prior to the bird was a 62 galaxy 500 xl convertible with bucket seats and center console w power steering, no air which I would have enjoyed. Are you going to add air to yours? Your metal work is amazing.

Awesome video, about to replace mine and didn't want to drop the drive shaft. Thank you

I'm chuckling a little watching this as I relive a very similar & frustrating time with that b*$£%y spring. Thank you for sharing.

I didn't know these had a different ignition system on these. I have the more traditional system on mine. Good information for those who have this system.

I put rolair rubber feet on my stand and balanced the arbor and wheels doesn't need the rubber feet now lol

Alvin, Very good explaination, my friend. At some point, if I live long enough, I hope to install a complete modern solid state ignition setup in Pearline. But first I have to plow through my antique radio and speaker backlog. We're making progress. Regards, John

Hey Alvin, great video. Yes the coil is different for those cars. The negative terminal on the coil is grounded to the engine as opposed to a conventional coil where the negative goes to the distributor. Looking on your wiring diagram, you can see that the wire to the distributor comes from the amplifier. These are much more common on the 1964. I don't care for them, there are no parts available for them and it just complicated things. I don't think there is any performance difference either. I agree with Mike Johansson, take the amplifier apart and test those components, see if they are any good. Thanks.

Hello Alvin. Thanks for showing and explaining that option. It'll help those that have that system in their car. Wonder why your fuse was blown. George B

Thanks for the info 👍🇺🇸

Hey Alvin, thanks for the video strangely my '65 did not have this option as it had just about every thing else. I had a shot distributor in it and I just changed it out for a conventional points version. But I may change it one day. Anyway, in the diagram of the amplifier those caps of 40 and 2 MFD are probably bad after all these years. I work on old Tube radios from the '30's and those values of 40 mfd are quite common. Ever wonder why old radios have a terrible hum? the capacitors have gone bad and they leak internally. Change them out and no more 60 cycle hum. It would be neat to see the inside of one of those amps and to test the caps. Any way I enjoyed your video! God bless.

Great Scott Alvin!!! Is there any way of just swapping out all that junk for an HEI distributor system? Now I gotta go look to see if my son has that style, greeeeaaat. Lol Thanks for the heads up and the tuition of it all!

Like others have written, I had no idea this existed, thank you for teaching me. I have to mention - excellent camera work and descriptions. Again, many thanks ~ Chuck

Wow, so this was an option then? My car ('65 Landau) has none of this stuff ( amplifier, circuit/transistor box by battery, etc.) so I presume it wasn't on my car to begin with. Someone (prev. owner) changed my system out to Pertronix, so I guess it's possible they removed all that stuff. If the perma-tuned ignition was offered as an option, I wonder how much it cost and how it was marketed to customers? It seems like kind of a tech-y option for 1965. I guess the "perma-tuned" name implies the customer would need less tune ups, but I wonder if that's true. Still needed points and you still needed to change plugs and rotors. Thanks for the detailed info on obscure vintage Thunderbird esoterica!

I have a 66 tbird an replaced points an condenser with electronic ignition $125. pentex i think its called works good 5yrs now, can us coil or buy a pentex coil i used the one in the car,. screws right in

Great that you got the cruise cntrl working. It's fun to get this stuff functioning again, when it can happen. My car doesn't have cruise, but I'm sure your video was helpful to many people.

Thanks for explaining that--I never understood it. In my 1966 electrical assembly manual, the page with the transistorized ignition system has a stamp on it that says "CANCELLED." Apparently, they discontinued it. I enjoy your videos.

Thanks again for your wonderful videos. Our 64 ThunderBird was completed about seven or eight months ago. I have taken it as far as I can. Not much left to do. Voltage regulator for the gauges, power steering leak (minor). Left rear quarter wind needs a good take apart and cleaning. Maybe a pinion seal, althought its dry now. Driving it appeared to help it. And thats it. We had a very generous offer for it out of the blue. Lynne and I chewed on it for a week or so and agreed to let it move on to the next custodian. We have had it for six years. The first three most of the work was done on it. We have been using it and it is a pleasure to drive. She shines like a diamond inside and out. But each day it gets a bit more difficut for me to maintain it. I dont want it to slip backwards. It is going to a new home. She only has 37,000 documented miles on her. I know the new owners will take good care of her. I will still be around keeping an eye on you and Nick.