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Nice mate keep going like this well done

brother, am facing a weird issue that the car didn't complain about while cruising 60 to 70 mph, on the 8 gear trying to accelerate very normal the engine shakes the shake happen on 1500 rpm, first the car run smoothly all the time, engine & Trans mount Done, tires balancing done, new sparks and coils done, new HPFP done. But it guess MAF need to be replaced and they are on the way, car is showing long term fuel -7 on both banks, short term good numbers!. The car start good the battery is new, I guess I may installed the HPFP wrong or the car need injector replacement which I couldn’t find which one is the bad one, N63tu have the power gauge in torque the car doesn’t show me the full potential 450 ft lb, when I accelerate 100%, unless I exceed 150 mph it become very strong it exceed the 450 ft lb! MAP or MAF or injectors? Or something else ?

Had the usual. 4 years, about 35k miles and at 82k now. Coolant overflow tank, pvc hoses heat cracked, valve cover gaskets, primary water pump. Dinan tune, plugs and coils. Rear airbags. Front pads and rotors. Probably had to put about 6k into it over my ownership.

watched all the videos of this M5 engine build - what a great work you have done! learned so much watching this. you are a very good mechanic! 😊

Nice trick, how to get free bearings 😂

hey man not sure if youll see this but do you have a link to all the coolant hoses i have a leak i cant seem to find just want to change them all

Did you replace any of the hoses while the engine was out? Is there any you would recommend that are hard to access or prone to failure? Or do you just replace all of them if you can?

I left you a very long comment so I wanted to send this shorter one to you. When you had taken your car to the drag races what kind of ET were you getting? When I googled this in the past I seen some people reporting that they were faster than the speed of sound and then on the other hand could not run a away from a bus.

I agree with the most everything you said. I work on all my own vehicles have done that since 1986. I am just a backyard mechanic for DIY mechanic. I have been fortunate enough buy the right tools for the right job. From racing on the weekends and just doing routine maintenance to all my other vehicles and my family I can tell you I don't care what car manufacturer you buy from is that oil at the minimum should be changed at 6000 miles. Anytime I will buy a new car or a motorcycle it is very unusual for me to go over a thousand miles before my first oil change and then 3,000 after that. Believe it or not I actually have friends that want the oil out of my vehicle whenever I do a change. They know I only use the best oil and they know how much it cost. When I'm done with the oil change I put it in their pan and sometimes depending on what I'm doing I might even put it in the car for them and change the filter. You cannot have a high-performance car like a BMW M I think you're going to get away from saving money on services. Whenever you can you should buy your parts about the manufacturer used. And that doesn't mean you need to buy it from the dealership. Dearest companies like Bosch who make the fuel injectors and spark plugs and BMW has them stamp their part number and put BMW on the logo. It's funny that I just saw this video. Today is Tuesday and I am going to look at a x5m. That one is a 2012 and the seller has all the paperwork since it was brand new. Only reason selling it is that he's going back to the west coast of the United States and does not want to bring the car back with him. He would rather buy a new BMW x5m. This was a great video and hopefully people will follow what you said. Also anybody who's read down to this point need to keep in mind that when you do change that battery you have to recode your car. You can do this yourself with a cheaper scanner and sometimes the big parts stores will come out and do it for free. If you don't have it done you will start experience things that don't make sense. Your radio can stop working your blower motor for the HVAC system will stop some lights might not come on it's a nightmare. Again this comes from me being very fortunate in life. I actually have the big pro scanner so I never have to go into a dealership. Looking forward to watching more from you.

I have not removed one of these engines before, but just a question, how did you access all torque converter bolts if the engine does not turn?

Is it possible to replace timing chain and guides with engine still in the car?

Are the N63TU engines also ticking time bombs after 100k km? I have 150k miles (approx 250k km) and they’ve never been done 😬

Hello great video. But you didn’t show how to set the manual tensioner, so the chain is at the correct tension. Can you explain that or show it. Thank you.

Hello great video. But you didn’t show how to set the manual tensioner, so the chain is at the correct tension. Can you explain that or show it. Thank you.

I'm starting my engine pull and was wondering if there's anything I should be aware of/careful with (i.e pressurized systems)?

I watched this video twice thinking I missed the tightening torque of the crank bolt. I don't think you mentioned it. Do you know what it is?

Brilliant good to see you back ! Whats the plan an OEM build or something spicy?

Excellent

Great video man, thanks! Hope to see a whole series on the engine assembly.

Great video as always :D Is the internals on the F90 the same as the F10, or is it slightly upgraded on the F90? What is the biggest differences in the engines exactly?

Hey, do you have IG or Facebook?

If you got 2 sets than make one good set and send the damaged set back.

hi i rebuilt the n63 engine, but car wont start if crank sensor plugged, but if i unplugged car start but very rough and then shut off, do you know why? there is #6 and #7 misfire codes and o2 sensor

I am so glad at the end, the car got back on the road and you did an amazing job. A lot of effort and it payed off !! 💪🏻👏🏻

Nice video mate ! Well done !!

Got a 2011 X5M with 243000km. Still running like a dream. Injectors and gearbox came new over the years and obviously the coolant lines a few times. Just had it serviced again and my mechanic commented on its great shape considering the km‘s. It’s taking 1l on 500-1000km and recently it has thrown a check engine light whenever it wanted me to top up oil but this was due low oil quality(previous owner didn’t do the last service for like over 20000km). They really should have there oil change every 5000-10000km latest and not like BMW recommendation ever 15000km. Anyways after fresh oil and filters no issues at all and runs incredibly good. Very happy with it. I’m aware of valve stems are a common problem though

dont get discouraged. its business. people change their minds all the time. keep up the good work and keep the camera rolling. thank you.

Ive bought a F85, oil analysis, which was excellent. Maintenance on everything and then some. As for engine heat and thermal issues, I put in downpipes and turbo blankets. Gold foil on appropriate heat shields. I did coils, plugs PCV, and anything looked faded. Had it a year, no oil loss, mapped it Stage II, added propeller shaft and drive shaft assembly bearing to bolster drive shaft. I bought it from Carvana they did most work under warranty. Car history was a lease owner, Mom. There was baby socks and pram alerts in it when I deep cleaned it. Coolest and funnest car project ever. M cars are real deal.

I'm chasing oil leaks on my 2010 bmw x5m (s63). So far Im doing the VGC as well as the oil separators. Whats confusing me I have oil all over the injector rail on both sides of the engine. Are these engines known for having leaks around the intake manifold. This is my first s63, so Im learning as I go. Thanks in advance

How are the parts holding up?

Hello, I just rebuilt my s63 engine in my m6 and also my x6 n63. I installed a new turbo pump on the m6 and vacuum bled. on the x6 re-used original and vacuum bled with your suggestions from this video. but still have faults 2ea9 and the x6 will show overheating even when its cold.. I can hear the new pump work on the M6 when its hot and I turn off the car. But I do think the x6 pump is not working and may be seized and need replacement. Do you have a specific time you vacuum bleed it or any other suggestions? And now that its filled with coolant do I drain it completely again and start over. Any tricks?? thanks for the great videos!!!

Bought my 2011 with X6M 150k km, its at 205k km, so far had the coolant leak, I have an injector leak currently, bought the tool to redo but Im having Vanos issues so it on hold currently, just haven't had the time, did an oil change and found the oil filter collapsed and part of the mesh screen missing inside the filter, Im concerned that it is plugging up some oil passage as my all my Vanos are throwing a code almost like both timing chains jumped, it strange, it just happened one day, my car doesn't smoke. Doing a rebuild is in within my skill, If you have any information as to how and where the oil flows that would be great or possibly where the metal mesh in the filter could get hung up like possible the filters in the vanos? great video, thanks

I dont think you can compare an suv to a sedan honestly. How is the x5 going today? Any issues?

man id S85 swap it and rock tf on with it…..

What caused the factory engine to fail?

Thanks for these videos! Just got X5M e70, excited!

Last BMW built by engineers. Own one since 2020. Bought it with 180k km on it. 250k today. This car is for someone with technical background only!

I was one of the unlucky ones. My e70 4.8i had cooling, injection, park break, transmission and transfer box issues. Sun roof leaked with previous owner rusting the fuse box and stereo amps in rear. Roof lining went then sun roof stopped working, then drive shaft and centre bearing. Spent over $12000 on repairs in a little over a year. Finally the rear diff exploded in a car park in city so I sold it for parts! Will I buy another one? Yes!! I will be having it checked over carefully before purchasing

Im going for kingtec bearing 😂. I would to see more kingtec project 😂

Sleeve masta..ehe😂

Their is no such thing called a cheap bmw and I have a 2015 6 grand coupe at 70k Mi. and a 2023 bmw M8 at 28k miles and all I do is brakes and oil but you have to do the spark plugs at 60k and it will be fine bmws are pretty reliable now don't listen to poor people buying them and don't have money to maintaining them

20k for the car + 15k for the engine rebuild not mention possible additional expenses. Isn’t better to just take the 35 - 40k and buy something normal?

That was the best instructions on the timing then I've ever seen! Can I send you my N63TU motor? Or should I just send you the whole 750LI. (smiling)

Mine throwing a bunch of wet black soot on rear tailpipes and trunk changed injectors pcv valves spark plugs coils still doing the same what else should I check need help please car runs great still has it’s power it is leaking oil from valve cover because injectors had oil on them

It is very simple, but people and cognitive dissonance in choosing cars.. Buy used top class BMW for 20K = add another 20K for maintenance = add 20K running costs over 100000 kilometers. If the car has high mileage and or maintenance not serviced or hidden flaws : add another 20K. 60-80 cts per kilometer. But to be safe 1 Euro /km. If people think this is all "not true" , go ahead, break your wallet and be broke all year round.

I have a 2012 x5m I had to do a rebuild on it but after it has been running pretty good I have bought it has 107000 now have 117000 on it Also replaced 1 turbo Sav has a lot of power. THANK YOU. SIRS KEEP MAKING GOOD VIDS

Don't buy from north of the Western Ring Road would be my number 1 tip. Look for cars from Bayside Suburbs 😂

We had a lot of good times in this car when my friend had one in high school. I remember driving it for the first time and thinking it was a space ship.

Timestamps and your video is perfect

M FOR MAINTENANCE 😂