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Hello Riccardo, No problem, I'm glad to help. The issue could be the board inside the display. Creality uses 3 different types and knowing which one you have is important to successfully flash the firmware. The link below will help you identify the correct settings for the compiler tool and method to flash the display itself. github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/tree/Ender3V2S1-Released/display%20assets

Hi Carrol, Thank you for commenting and sharing your wisdom. I hadn't thought about using heat to soften the vinyl and its adhesive.

Hello Luke, Thank you for commenting. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your mods.

Hi Sergio, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your repairs.

Hello friend, Thank you for commenting. My compressor is the Ingersoll Rand 60 gallon with the SS5 pump. It delivers 18.1 CFM at 90 PSI.

Hello friend, yes, one of the STL files is a template for drilling the lower holes

Hi Smoke, try a different USB to Micro USB cable and make sure that the one you play to use supports data transmission. It sounds like the cable that isn't working is a charge only (lacks the green and white data wires) cable or you could have a bad data cable. I've had new data cables not work straight out of the package.

@@vbared I have mine in the printer already. I had to wipe and restart because I had issues with the ui not working. Figure I would start from scratch. So I need to have it connected via usb?

@@SMOKE3104 Yes, that ls/dev is a request to confirm that the Raspberry Pi can talk to the printer. If you don't get a response that include the serial address but an error of some kind then it's most likely the cable.

@@vbared Oh, yea, this is on a manta m8p board. I guess that's why I was confused. I think I'm going to disconnect, and reconnect everything.

Thank you friend, I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your repairs.

Yes, $430 is an expensive upfront cost but all tire changes after are all free.

Yes, you're 100% correct, if you can find a way to keep it then I would. Thankfully, I haven't had any problems since the small channel on the heatsink fan mount keeps it from moving and it's also clipped to the bowden tube so it can't twist below that clip.

Hello friend, thank you for commenting and encouragement. Yes, I've found that using 80 grit glass beads to remove the dirt and oxidation first followed up with 170-325 US Sieve glass beads aka (extra fine glass beads) produces an amazing even and shiny finish.

Hi Dave, Thank you for commenting and your interest in the heat dissipating Y housing. Please email me vbared@gmail.com your shipping details and let me know the email address associated with your PayPal account so I can send you a payment request when your package is ready to ship.

Yeah, painting the textured logo red would've looked great. Thank you for commenting :)

Thank you for commenting, yeah, the process was interesting to me as well. The great thing is that putting together this simple system allows anyone to achieve a factory finish on soft metals, etch class, degrease and remove contamination on many materials. The big ticket item unfortunately is the air supply.

HI Bruno, Thank you for commenting. I haven't purchased any of the latest larger formant printers but about a year ago started using an Ender 3 Max Neo. It has very close to the same build volume at the CR10S Pro V2 but comes with a 32bit silent control board that allows you to install Miguel's Professional Firmware or Klipper without too much fuss.

Hi friend, Thank you for commenting. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Yes, a 4.2.2 board would be just fine, it doesn't need to be 512k.

@@vbaredthanks Victoria. What are you using to keep the cable elevated?

It keeps changing Victor to Victoria. Sorry…😊

Hello friend, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. The other end of the cable plugs into a small board that comes with the printer and has connections for the hotend, parts cooling fan, heatsink fans and temp probe, I left that side of the cable alone.

Thank you for commenting. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your mods :)

Hello friend, Thank you for commenting. Sand blasting needs parts to be grease free to avoid clogging, requires more pressure to create the vacuum needed move media from the reservoir to the gun and produces a rough finish. Wet blasting requires no chemical degreasing, uses a dirty water pump to agitate and pump the slurry to the blast gun, decontaminates and produces a smooth finish (think river rock).

@vbared thanks for clearing that up. I'm in the mits of making may own vapour blaster after watching your videos that inspired me to make my own. Really appreciate everything you have done and thank you 😊 🙏

Ouch! About double for you.

Thank you, friend, I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your repairs.

Hi friend, thank you for commenting. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your mods :)

Hello friend, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. An unmodified 3D printer and 1kg spool of SUNLU PETG filament will be just under $400 but will quickly pay for themselves by allowing you to create custom parts you would normally have to buy at a box store.

Hi Ray, VBB setup uses the board's power for the stepper drivers. HV powers them directly from the power supply. I haven't noticed a visual performance benefit from doing it but thought it would be better.

@@vbared ok i tried both i think the stepper are quiter when in hilde mode when connected with HV but maybe is only my perception😁

Getting those caps off without damaging them or the head is a challenge. I can't take credit for the solution but thought to make this video about it after reading it in a forum.

I appreciate you friend, glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your projects!

HI friend, Yes, www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=15006921&cc=1447119&pt=1000306&jsn=1031&_nck=RaosfcaC2rGu3zlfSTLDkcJWiT3ec2%2F8FJ5%2F6EIE7m5rF9%2BgPDHXesVcKo2pLeGjNLi5O7PTjj2XaB2MVmlhu%2FKsKiKeg5ruP0v5RhdQAdDoa2D1ZBLKRfaVFW2E66g7xa5fy7kowfoTUvxCmZdIx0AFUkQ9LN%2BIdZtjp6MkgHQ5N4sK2ymPzh89HdT0GAloYYt6bomYSTQWSaVjaCTor%2F4O6BBKgrTQFa6dyVOuwBXgw%2FFbiVfvZlVNjVOQFaIiXkr7oP2YrjHcGGmn1oxkdBYcWtwOrX9OeT203kibMHVcm0RKt3vI9tstk3xajpgGDMbxSNmL%2Fv5DtCT2XzZsiKW33fXH81nO%2BWWe2LiVZvA%3D

I appreciate you, Joe, glad you found value in this video for your viewing time and saved some money. Best of luck with your repairs.

Yeah, I wouldn't use them if the rims are aluminum and in perfect condition. The rims I was working on had some spots that rubbed a curb which is where I placed the spoons.

The BTT Pi has different pin names. You may need to play around with them until it works.

Hi Cowboy, Thank you for commenting and tips. Yeah, I hear you, I'm still learning and not the best at smoothly delivering information, will try my best to improve the quality of the content.

You're most welcome, Ray, thank you for commenting :)

It depends on what control board it has. Ready the model number of the chip used in the Voxlab to see if it's listed in the configurator tool.

Hi friend, you may have to turn the little adjuster cog to bring the new brake shoes closer together. Keep adjusting it until the drum fits over them. Once it's on it should rotate without any dragging. If it's dragging adjust it a bit more.