I’m from southern Brazil, and I’m planning to upgrade my Anycubic Kobra Max 3D printer. My goal is to install the Manta5P motherboard, along with the CB1 module and TMC2209 drivers. During my research, I realized that detailed information about installing this board is scarce. In fact, your video was the only one that provided a clear and detailed step-by-step guide. I know it will be quite a challenge since I’ll be using some new components. I want to thank you for creating this content, as it was the only one RUclips showed me with relevant details for the modifications I plan to make. One of my biggest concerns is about the length of the power cables for my 24V 500W power supply and the components such as motors, CanBUS, and sensors. I’m unsure if the cables will be long enough to reuse and have questions about where to properly connect each one.
Thank you for the detailed video. I didn't see you mention anything about the HV screw terminals though. What are these used for? EDIT: The HV screw terminals are for utilizing a separate power supply for only the stepper drivers (24V-56V).
Hello friend, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. This video was kind of a part 2 to the one linked below. I discuss all the connections in good detail and include the files I used in the video's description area. ruclips.net/video/Mec3cZnCP18/видео.html
Yes, but you can also feed them directly from the same power supply using a second set of wires separate from the ones powering the board to get more current to them instead of the main board powering them with whatever current is leftover.
Thank you the amazing tutorial. I see you used creality stepper cables. On my manta M4P, I used my ender 3 original cables too, but x and y steppers get really hot, z doesn't... Do you know if the stock wires are good to put on a Manta or did you have to change the wiring for the motor coils?
Hi Jay, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. I installed the Manta board in a Coreception 300 corexy printer and had no trouble using the stock stepper cables and didn't need to make any changes to them. If your Ender 3 is a Pro or V2 model that uses a 40x40 aluminum extrusion to mount the y-stepper motor then this part will solve the y-stepper heat buildup. amzn.to/49qpg9I
Hello, thanks for posting. Im planning to get back in life my cr10s pro v2. So i decied to go with this manta m5p setup and im just curious about Z axis setup, should i go with 2 individual drivers for 2 stepper or just go like the factory did 2 steppers on one driver...and if so (on one driver) should i change the current on that single driver?
Hello friend, I'm glad you found value in this video. Having the independent control of each z stepper motor to take advantage of Klipper's Z_TILT feature solves the x gantry level issue. If I were going to upgrade my CR10S Pro V2 from the factory setup today I would use the Manta M5P+CM4 (if I could get one at a decent price) or use the CB1. I also wouldn't bother with the CR10S Pro V2 ribbon cable but instead use long wires to minimize connection points of failure. The CR10S Pro V2 has the potential to be an awesome printer. Best of luck with your build :)
Hello, Thank you for commenting. It's the silly mechanical setup of my Coreception 300 which is a core xy printer that has dual lead screws and limit switches but didn't originally come with the bed probe, which I need to create a bed mesh. I'm going to have to show it in an upcoming video, it's the craziest thing.
Hello, The buzzing steppers are due to the coils apposing each other instead of working in tandem. Please check to make sure that the ribbon cable on the stepper motor side has the two middle wires crossed. Many aftermarket cables have them all inline but the two center wires need to be crossed for it to work.
I saw in a later video you had switched the accelerometer to the dedicated SPI port (and got it to work with the TFT35 SPI) but in this video you had it working with the GPIO pins. I'd actually like to wire it to the GPIO pins but am struggling with the klipper config, any tips?
Hello friend, yeah, I struggled with this thing for some time myself and was unable to get the ADXL345 working using the GPIO pins along with TFT35. If I remember correctly it had to do with them sharing some resources. The issue that keeps this from working I believe comes from the custom image BTT is using. I couldn't get anything to work using V2.3.3 or 2.3.4 but was able to get things working using image V2.3.2 but the ADX345 had to be on the SPI port. Detailed info can be found in the link below. There is also a table link in there as well that might help. Let me know if you find a way to do it, I would love to learn how. github.com/bigtreetech/CB1/discussions/47
Hello, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. Linked below is that video. I appreciate your heads up that it was missing from the video description. Best of luck with your mods! ruclips.net/video/Mec3cZnCP18/видео.html
Hi, Thanks for commenting. M3A and M3B is just like that Y cable. Assuming you are running a Manta M5P, if you want independent z-stepper control you would use either M3A or M3B and M4. Then just add this to your printer.cfg but make sure to tweak the values to match your printer. Add next lines to your CURA start g-code right after G28 (see next lines): G28 ; Home all axes Z_TILT_ADJUST Add below to your printer.cfg [z_tilt] z_positions: 284, 108 # the first value is X position , second value is Y position 12, 108 points: 284, 108 12, 108 speed: 50 horizontal_move_z: 5 retries: 20 retry_tolerance: 0.0075
Thanks! If understanding is correct, the splitter cable can be plugged into M3A and both z stepper motors will be driven by output of M3A. The 2nd stepper motor does not have a stop switch.
@@makergc3d You don't need the Y cable anymore, just plug one stepper motor cable into M3A and the other stepper motor cable into M3B. Both M3A & M3B are connected to the same stepper driver, it's just like the y-cable but built into the board. Later on when you add a bed probe you can move one of the z-stepper motor cables to M4 and use the tilt feature.
Muito bom!! aqui deu tudo certinho funcionando com um encanto, unico problema que to enfrentando aqui, que o LCD de 7 polegas touch, nao funciona, alguma config?
Olá amigo, Obrigado por comentar e encorajar. Não tive nenhuma experiência pessoal usando a impressora 3D executando o Klipper com uma tela sensível ao toque BTT de 7 polegadas, mas encontrei este vídeo que mostra que ela pode funcionar. Por favor, deixe-me saber se você consegue fazê-lo funcionar. ruclips.net/video/eKH5on3IaL8/видео.html Boa sorte com seus mods!
@@vbared Ele até funciona se clicar mais nao tem imagen, ja tentei de tudo ate um monitor HDMI e nada de imagen, tela fica preta Confirma para mim se sua tela LCD está no HDMI-0 ou na HDMI-1, por gentileza
Podle mne je tam nesmysl, pokud mám BTL, nemám end Z, hlavně proč dva, jedině jeden dolu a druhý nahoru, zajímal by mě cfg. pro tohle zapojení, nedává trochu smysl, take jste neukázal kde máte v tomhle případě propojky pod driver
Ahoj Vladimíre, ano, slyšel jsem tě a měl jsem uvést více podrobností o tiskárně, do které jsem ji nainstaloval. Stroj v tomto videu má dva nezávislé vodicí šrouby a dvojité koncové dorazy, žádný BL-Touch. Takže pokud máte BL-Touch, a pak žádné z-end zastávky
Friend, thank you very much once again for the video tutorial, they are excellent and well explained. As a layman, I'm still in doubt, building a printer and I'm coming from a Duet 2 wifi, for the klipper... on the Z motor, where I have two spindles, I thought I could connect it to M3A and M3B, but for what I understand, I would lose the automatic adjustment. I ask how I would use limit switches on the Z, I didn't use it, and I had an independent Z on the reprap on the duet 2 board, but on the M5P it's all new and as you said, bigtreetech's documentation leaves something to be desired. If I want an independent double Z, I need to use limit switches and use Motor 3 and Motor 4, for example, leaving m3b out. However, I feel incompetent to configure this in printer.cfg, could you help me with printer.cfg, do you have a video of yours that talks about this configuration? Thanks again!
Hi Renê, I rely on limit switches because the machine with the Manta M5P doesn't have a BL-Touch. In your case because you do have a BL-Touch add [z_tilt] to your printer.cfg. I found this video to help you understand how to configure it. ruclips.net/video/NoECJlTS2SU/видео.htmlsi=emI3G5aMt9phHOhh Best of luck with your mods!
Olá amigo, De nada, e obrigado por comentar. Estou feliz que você encontrou valor neste vídeo para o seu tempo de visualização. Boa sorte com seus mods!
I’m from southern Brazil, and I’m planning to upgrade my Anycubic Kobra Max 3D printer. My goal is to install the Manta5P motherboard, along with the CB1 module and TMC2209 drivers. During my research, I realized that detailed information about installing this board is scarce. In fact, your video was the only one that provided a clear and detailed step-by-step guide.
I know it will be quite a challenge since I’ll be using some new components. I want to thank you for creating this content, as it was the only one RUclips showed me with relevant details for the modifications I plan to make. One of my biggest concerns is about the length of the power cables for my 24V 500W power supply and the components such as motors, CanBUS, and sensors. I’m unsure if the cables will be long enough to reuse and have questions about where to properly connect each one.
Thank you for the detailed video. I didn't see you mention anything about the HV screw terminals though. What are these used for?
EDIT: The HV screw terminals are for utilizing a separate power supply for only the stepper drivers (24V-56V).
Hello friend, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. This video was kind of a part 2 to the one linked below. I discuss all the connections in good detail and include the files I used in the video's description area.
ruclips.net/video/Mec3cZnCP18/видео.html
Yes, but you can also feed them directly from the same power supply using a second set of wires separate from the ones powering the board to get more current to them instead of the main board powering them with whatever current is leftover.
@@vbared I hadn't seen the part 1. Thank you for linking it. I'll go watch that one.
Thank you the amazing tutorial. I see you used creality stepper cables. On my manta M4P, I used my ender 3 original cables too, but x and y steppers get really hot, z doesn't... Do you know if the stock wires are good to put on a Manta or did you have to change the wiring for the motor coils?
Hi Jay, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. I installed the Manta board in a Coreception 300 corexy printer and had no trouble using the stock stepper cables and didn't need to make any changes to them. If your Ender 3 is a Pro or V2 model that uses a 40x40 aluminum extrusion to mount the y-stepper motor then this part will solve the y-stepper heat buildup.
amzn.to/49qpg9I
As always fantastic video mate
Thank you, brother, I've had so many questions about the wiring on this thing. How are you doing, buddy?
@@vbared Yeah doing well mate, trying real hard to keep out of trouble
@@glenncol Lol, me too, trying to not to get carried away with spending on more machines.
Hello, thanks for posting. Im planning to get back in life my cr10s pro v2. So i decied to go with this manta m5p setup and im just curious about Z axis setup, should i go with 2 individual drivers for 2 stepper or just go like the factory did 2 steppers on one driver...and if so (on one driver) should i change the current on that single driver?
Hello friend, I'm glad you found value in this video. Having the independent control of each z stepper motor to take advantage of Klipper's Z_TILT feature solves the x gantry level issue. If I were going to upgrade my CR10S Pro V2 from the factory setup today I would use the Manta M5P+CM4 (if I could get one at a decent price) or use the CB1. I also wouldn't bother with the CR10S Pro V2 ribbon cable but instead use long wires to minimize connection points of failure. The CR10S Pro V2 has the potential to be an awesome printer.
Best of luck with your build :)
nice video, just curious why you would have a bed probe and 2 Z end stop switches
Hello, Thank you for commenting. It's the silly mechanical setup of my Coreception 300 which is a core xy printer that has dual lead screws and limit switches but didn't originally come with the bed probe, which I need to create a bed mesh. I'm going to have to show it in an upcoming video, it's the craziest thing.
I wired up the cable and pins same way for motor setup cannot get any movement when stepper buzz .suggestions please
Hello,
The buzzing steppers are due to the coils apposing each other instead of working in tandem. Please check to make sure that the ribbon cable on the stepper motor side has the two middle wires crossed. Many aftermarket cables have them all inline but the two center wires need to be crossed for it to work.
I saw in a later video you had switched the accelerometer to the dedicated SPI port (and got it to work with the TFT35 SPI) but in this video you had it working with the GPIO pins. I'd actually like to wire it to the GPIO pins but am struggling with the klipper config, any tips?
Hello friend, yeah, I struggled with this thing for some time myself and was unable to get the ADXL345 working using the GPIO pins along with TFT35. If I remember correctly it had to do with them sharing some resources. The issue that keeps this from working I believe comes from the custom image BTT is using. I couldn't get anything to work using V2.3.3 or 2.3.4 but was able to get things working using image V2.3.2 but the ADX345 had to be on the SPI port. Detailed info can be found in the link below. There is also a table link in there as well that might help. Let me know if you find a way to do it, I would love to learn how.
github.com/bigtreetech/CB1/discussions/47
Youve saved the day and my printer! But I cant find the link to your jumper video??
Hello, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. Linked below is that video. I appreciate your heads up that it was missing from the video description. Best of luck with your mods!
ruclips.net/video/Mec3cZnCP18/видео.html
Is M3A or M3B port used with dual z stepper motors connected with a Y splitter cable?
Hi, Thanks for commenting. M3A and M3B is just like that Y cable. Assuming you are running a Manta M5P, if you want independent z-stepper control you would use either M3A or M3B and M4. Then just add this to your printer.cfg but make sure to tweak the values to match your printer.
Add next lines to your CURA start g-code right after G28 (see next lines):
G28 ; Home all axes
Z_TILT_ADJUST
Add below to your printer.cfg
[z_tilt]
z_positions: 284, 108 # the first value is X position , second value is Y position
12, 108
points: 284, 108
12, 108
speed: 50
horizontal_move_z: 5
retries: 20
retry_tolerance: 0.0075
Thanks! If understanding is correct, the splitter cable can be plugged into M3A and both z stepper motors will be driven by output of M3A. The 2nd stepper motor does not have a stop switch.
@@makergc3d You don't need the Y cable anymore, just plug one stepper motor cable into M3A and the other stepper motor cable into M3B. Both M3A & M3B are connected to the same stepper driver, it's just like the y-cable but built into the board.
Later on when you add a bed probe you can move one of the z-stepper motor cables to M4 and use the tilt feature.
Muito bom!!
aqui deu tudo certinho funcionando com um encanto, unico problema que to enfrentando aqui, que o LCD de 7 polegas touch, nao funciona, alguma config?
Olá amigo,
Obrigado por comentar e encorajar. Não tive nenhuma experiência pessoal usando a impressora 3D executando o Klipper com uma tela sensível ao toque BTT de 7 polegadas, mas encontrei este vídeo que mostra que ela pode funcionar. Por favor, deixe-me saber se você consegue fazê-lo funcionar.
ruclips.net/video/eKH5on3IaL8/видео.html
Boa sorte com seus mods!
@@vbared Ele até funciona se clicar mais nao tem imagen, ja tentei de tudo ate um monitor HDMI e nada de imagen, tela fica preta
Confirma para mim se sua tela LCD está no HDMI-0 ou na HDMI-1, por gentileza
Deu certo aqui muito obrigado a MANTA M5P funciona mesmo no HDMI-0 ..
Podle mne je tam nesmysl, pokud mám BTL, nemám end Z, hlavně proč dva, jedině jeden dolu a druhý nahoru, zajímal by mě cfg. pro tohle zapojení, nedává trochu smysl, take jste neukázal kde máte v tomhle případě propojky pod driver
Ahoj Vladimíre, ano, slyšel jsem tě a měl jsem uvést více podrobností o tiskárně, do které jsem ji nainstaloval. Stroj v tomto videu má dva nezávislé vodicí šrouby a dvojité koncové dorazy, žádný BL-Touch. Takže pokud máte BL-Touch, a pak žádné z-end zastávky
Friend, thank you very much once again for the video tutorial, they are excellent and well explained. As a layman, I'm still in doubt, building a printer and I'm coming from a Duet 2 wifi, for the klipper... on the Z motor, where I have two spindles, I thought I could connect it to M3A and M3B, but for what I understand, I would lose the automatic adjustment. I ask how I would use limit switches on the Z, I didn't use it, and I had an independent Z on the reprap on the duet 2 board, but on the M5P it's all new and as you said, bigtreetech's documentation leaves something to be desired. If I want an independent double Z, I need to use limit switches and use Motor 3 and Motor 4, for example, leaving m3b out. However, I feel incompetent to configure this in printer.cfg, could you help me with printer.cfg, do you have a video of yours that talks about this configuration? Thanks again!
Hi Renê, Your most welcome, I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Yes, you are correct for independent z stepper control you will need M3A and M4. My current printer.cfg is below the line.
_______________________________________________________________________________________________
[include mainsail.cfg]
[mcu rpi]
serial: /tmp/klipper_host_mcu
[adxl345]
cs_pin: rpi:gpio74
spi_bus: spidev1.1
[resonance_tester]
accel_chip: adxl345
probe_points: 142.5, 146, 20
[bed_mesh]
speed: 120
horizontal_move_z: 5
mesh_min: 13, 13
mesh_max: 285, 289
probe_count: 9, 9
mesh_pps: 2, 3
algorithm: bicubic
bicubic_tension: 0.
fade_start: 1
fade_end: 10
fade_target: 0
[stepper_x]
step_pin: PC8
dir_pin: !PC9
enable_pin: !PA15
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 40
endstop_pin: ^PD3
position_endstop: 0
position_max: 285
homing_speed: 50
[tmc2209 stepper_x]
uart_pin: PD9
run_current: 0.580
diag_pin: PD3
[stepper_y]
step_pin: PA10
dir_pin: !PA14
enable_pin: !PA13
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 40
endstop_pin: ^PD2
position_endstop: 0
position_max: 292
homing_speed: 50
[tmc2209 stepper_y]
uart_pin: PD8
run_current: 0.580
diag_pin: PD2
[stepper_z]
step_pin: PC6
dir_pin: !PC7
enable_pin: !PA9
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 8
endstop_pin: ^PC3
#position_endstop: 0.0
position_max: 350
position_min: -2
[tmc2209 stepper_z]
uart_pin: PB10
run_current: 0.580
diag_pin: PC3
[stepper_z1]
step_pin: PB12
dir_pin: !PB11
enable_pin: !PA8
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 8
endstop_pin: ^PC2
#heater_pin: PA7
#sensor_pin: PA2
[tmc2209 stepper_z1]
uart_pin: PA6
run_current: 0.580
diag_pin:
[extruder]
max_extrude_only_distance: 1000.0
step_pin: PB0
dir_pin: !PB1
enable_pin: !PC4
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 3.433 # default 33.500
nozzle_diameter: 0.400
filament_diameter: 1.750
heater_pin: PC5
sensor_type: ATC Semitec 104NT-4-R025H42G
sensor_pin: PA1
#control: pid
#pid_Kp: 21.527
#pid_Ki: 1.063
#pid_Kd: 108.982
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 300
pressure_advance = 0.078
[tmc2209 extruder]
uart_pin: PB2
run_current: 0.600
diag_pin: PC2
[heater_fan hotend_fan]
pin: PA3
max_power: 1.0
kick_start_time: 0.5
heater: extruder
heater_temp: 50.0
fan_speed: 1.0
off_below: 0
#sensor_type:MAX31865
#sensor_pin: PA4
#spi_bus: spi1
#rtd_nominal_r: 100
#rtd_reference_r: 430
#rtd_num_of_wires: 2
#[filament_switch_sensor material_0]
#switch_pin: PC2
[heater_bed]
heater_pin: PA5
sensor_type: Generic 3950
sensor_pin: PA0
#control: watermark
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 130
[fan]
pin: PA4
#[heater_fan fan1]
#pin: PA3
#[heater_fan SoC_fan]
#pin: CB1:gpio79
#pin: RPI:gpio26
[mcu]
serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-Klipper_stm32g0b1xx_hurakan-if00
[printer]
kinematics: corexy
max_velocity: 300
max_accel: 3000
max_z_velocity: 5
max_z_accel: 100
[board_pins]
aliases:
# EXP1 header
EXP1_1=PD5, EXP1_3=PB3, EXP1_5=PB5, EXP1_7=PB7, EXP1_9=,
EXP1_2=PD4, EXP1_4=PD6, EXP1_6=PB4, EXP1_8=PB6, EXP1_10=,
# EXP2 header
EXP2_1=PB14, EXP2_3=PB8, EXP2_5=PC10, EXP2_7=PC12, EXP2_9=,
EXP2_2=PB13, EXP2_4=PB9, EXP2_6=PB15, EXP2_8=, EXP2_10=
# See the sample-lcd.cfg file for definitions of common LCD displays.
#[bltouch]
#sensor_pin: PC13
#control_pin: PC15
# Proximity switch
#[probe]
#pin: PC15
#[neopixel my_neopixel1]
#pin: PC11
#[neopixel my_neopixel2]
#pin: PC14
#[adxl345]
#cs_pin: PC0
#spi_bus: spi2
@@vbared Thank you very much! I want to see if I can get it to work by Sunday!
🤝
@@vbared I still had one doubt. Regarding the Z axis, do I need to have an end stop, even using a bltouch?
Hi Renê, I rely on limit switches because the machine with the Manta M5P doesn't have a BL-Touch. In your case because you do have a BL-Touch add [z_tilt] to your printer.cfg. I found this video to help you understand how to configure it.
ruclips.net/video/NoECJlTS2SU/видео.htmlsi=emI3G5aMt9phHOhh
Best of luck with your mods!
Nice job on the video bro..
Hi Brian, did it help answer your questions? Call me for any additional details you might need, I'm glad to help.
Video otimo, era isso mesmo que estava precisando muito obrigado mesmo!
Olá amigo, De nada, e obrigado por comentar. Estou feliz que você encontrou valor neste vídeo para o seu tempo de visualização.
Boa sorte com seus mods!