"Revised" February 2024 Mainsail Klipper Complete Installation and Calibration Guide
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 12 фев 2024
- Mainsail Klipper has had many updates to the installation process since the making of my easy-to-follow Klipper guide in 2020. Unfortunately, it's no longer possible to keep it working through updates without a fresh image installation. This video will guide you to installing it and leave you with all the detailed information for calibrating it.
2024 Klipper PDF Guide - mega.nz/file/0BFggIyK#tXFD5PZ...
2024 Klipper Installation Support Files - mega.nz/file/xNMRRZAS#P1pIksT...
Hardware needed for Klipper:
Raspberry Pi 3B+ - amzn.to/49hgj34
SD card - amzn.to/3UEieu0
Micro USB - amzn.to/3HZcsLR
My Ultimate Ender 3 V2 Build List -
Ender 3 V2 - amzn.to/3BF2XwF
JH Precision 3D printer upgrades:
Precision Adjustable Probe Bracket - amzn.to/45mgQhw
Anodized Aluminum Housing - amzn.to/3SpIRA8
Garolite G10 Build Surface (235 X 235mm) Bed - amzn.to/3tNSGg8
Garolite G10 Build Surface (310 X 320mm) Bed - amzn.to/3FZy2iH
Reliability Upgrades:
Revo CR 24v hotend - amzn.to/3Xd7yBH
Creality CR-Touch - amzn.to/3AFBytd
Micro Swiss dual gear extruder kit - amzn.to/3quGWx6
Creality 3D Printer Accessories Kit - amzn.to/3OqxQOB
Noise Reduction Upgrades:
Minimalist Fan Bracket for Revo CR - victorbared.com/products/revo...
Compatible blower fans for the mount above - amzn.to/3tuKfqm
M2 X 8mm self-tapping (need 8) - amzn.to/3qulw3o
M3 X 12mm pan head (need 4) - amzn.to/3fqjP0B
M3 x 6mm hex button cap screw - amzn.to/349l6Hy
Install Video of E3D V6 - • E3D V6 All Metal Hoten...
Super Quiet Upgrades & How-to Video:
4 Dunlop Squash Balls (Need 2 Sets of 3) - amzn.to/32jPqhH
Noctua 40x10mm Fans (Need 2) - amzn.to/3JjSTxq
Noctua 80x25mm Fan - amzn.to/3Jk2u7i
How to install the quiet fan - • Ender 3 V2 Near Silent...
3D Printable Files - drive.google.com/file/d/1EP_I...
Advanced upgrade:
Dual Z-Belt Mod - kevinakasam.com/belt-driven-e...
Music:
Song: Jim Yosef x ROY KNOX - Sun Goes Down [NCS Release]
Music provided by NoCopyrightSounds
Free Download/Stream: ncs.io/SunGoesDown
Watch: • Jim Yosef x ROY KNOX -... 
Наука
I first installed Klipper with your previous tutorial, then I stopped printing for a while and yesterday I decided to update everything in Klipper and realized the problem with the mcu.
Of course I came to your channel to install Klipper again and found this video...
As always, the best tutorial online.
Thank you for your content Victor!!
Hi Juan, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you got it working again. It's pretty annoying when things go South after an update.
Best of luck with your prints :)
Another informative video! Great work!
Thanks Victor!
Thank you for the encouragement, Rob, If you find any holes in the info, please let me know.
Just checked your two products. Very nice, I will buy once I start printing in mass production mode. It looks like a great add to any printer.
Hi friend, Thank you for commenting and feedback. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. We did some more testing with the new aluminum housing and it dropped the y-stepper motor temps on a an Ender 3 V2 that had the VREFs adjusted from 134c to down to just 100c during a 4 hour print, that's a 34% reduction.
Best of luck with your mods :)
Perfect timing, as I’m going to swap my E3 V2 board to a BTT Manta E3 and switching to Klipper when I get some time off work!
Awesome! you're going to enjoy using Klipper, it's amazing!
Love the video man was having problems aswell with the Z axis and I also forgot the “!” I was just so eager to get started printing. Loved the tutorial keep it up!
I appreciate you, buddy, thank you so much for the encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your mods :)
also finishing up the calibration and everything i noticed that the mentioned "moonraker connection" file isnt listed in the description
@@thegameengine328 It's now a feature that can be found in the CURA Marketplace. Launch the CURA program and click the Marketplace button on the top right. It's very slow to load and sometimes the Marketplace pop-up box may not display in the forefront so keep an eye on the active programs in the Windows taskbar. If you notice what looks like a second CURA layer in the taskbar you may need to click on it to bring the Marketplace to the forefront. Select Moonraker Connection from the list in the Plugins tab to install it. If you have any problems just email me vbared@gmail.com and I'll send you the zip file.
Great work .....very usefull...thanks a lot
Thank you friend, I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your upgrades.
I have an Ender 3 V3 se and I had installed Klipper about two weeks ago, without any problem. Then I saw an advice to install Katapult for easier updates. I did so, but I could not see that it was really installed. So iI tried KIAUH where I also installed some updates, Klipper too. After this all I cannot access my printer anymore. I tried reflashing x times, without success. Also the Ender firmware, but nothing changes. I don´t know what might be the reason, even don´t know if the SD-slot is ok. Should I try resetting the board which has no reset button, by a ST-Link adapter perhaps?
Hi Frank, Thank you for commenting. Does the error have something to do with MCU version difference? Another thing also is that for a new board flash to take it must have a different file name than the last successful .bin file flashed. In the case of Klipper when it was working the files name was probably klipper.bin so if you wanted to reflash a new klipper.bin you would need to alter the name to something like klipper1.bin. If the flash was successful and you needed to flash it again then you can once again use klipper.bin since the last successful flash was klipper1.bin
Victor, thanks for the video, could you post a link to where you got the info on minimizing the z offset improving accuracy mentioned around 32:00, just curious and want to read up on how it works.
Hello friend, Thank you for commenting. As far as I know I haven't seen it mentioned anywhere else. I stumbled across this when sorting out a print problem with one of two almost identical printer setups, the only difference was the Z-offset. One was -2.86 the other was -1.34 so to fix the issue I had to manually edit the mesh on the machine which the -2.86 Z-offset at the points where the filament wasn't being deposited at the proper height. It was like creating a bed mesh just screwed up my prints. Anyways, this drove me crazy for a year or so until I started to get into editing Marlin and came across a setting that designated the minimum Z-offset at -2.00. Klipper has the same feature although it's easy alter to a greater - Z-offset than recompiling a Marlin firmware.
The best solution is to minimize the Z-offset variable by having it be tiny so I set all mine, using the adjustable probe mount we created, between -0.25 to -0.50. One thing that is very important is that your hotend is warmed up to a high enough temperature for the filament to be soft but not running prior to homing so any filament that is on the nozzle can mush during homing. I set this up in my start g-code prior to G28 so it's automatic whenever I start a print.
@@vbared interesting, I'm working with a z offset of 2.3, I haven't printed anything large enough yet to cause an issue from the mesh but am going to keep an eye out for this. Fantastic Klipper install guide, thank you again
Awesome Video again, very clear. but I having a issue when homing Z in mainsail, the Z goes to centre of bed, then moves up rather than down. Ender 3v2 with sprite pro and CR touch. Any ideas?
SOLVED!, on [stepper_z], dir_pin: PB5 was missing the !, now reads dir_pin: !PB5 ##note to self read the comments##
Awesome, glad you found the answer. Klipper is super easy to use once setup. No messing with rewiring or recompiling firmware to a solve a problem like this. The "!" For the win :)
Great Video as usual.
Have you tried printing PETG with TPU? I'm having trouble using the pause and filament change on my ender 3 pro. Running klipper.
Hi friend, thank you for the encouragement, I appreciate you very much. I mostly print with PETG but I haven't tried to combine PETG and TPU. Below is my filament sensor macro, just modify it to fit your needs. Klipper has a pause at layer macro but I haven't played with it.
[filament_switch_sensor Filament_runout_sensor]
pause_on_runout: True
runout_gcode:
G91
G1 Z20 F900 # Raise Z away from print
G90
G1 X245 Y218.5 F5000 # Move to purge area
G91
G1 E-450 F600 # Unload 450mm of filament
G90
insert_gcode:
G4 P20000 # Pause for 20 seconds
G1 E450 F400 # Load 450mm of filament
switch_pin: PA4 # Pin that the sensor is connected to
@@vbared thanks for the macro 👍
I'm making a remote housing and using tpu as a membrane to prevent water splashing.
@@iaa66 That sounds super cool, I'm going to have to learn how to combine materials like that, any good sources you can point me to?
@@vbared ruclips.net/video/7nWGfz3__3A/видео.htmlsi=Iy_ZP5V07t4lR_Tw
and clough42
Thanks for going through the setup calm and easy. A question though. Where can I find that pdf you are showing on screen?
Hello, friend, you're most welcome, thank you for the feedback on the pace. The support files link below should also be in the video description. Included in the .zip file are all the programs I used in the video. An antivirus will most likely flag them due to the .exe extensions but they are all clean.
2024 Klipper Installation Support Files - mega.nz/file/xNMRRZAS#P1pIksTzbpVVlFTzxkE0Zx4ojvFuUOpiX6_mQ5xci5I
@@vbared Thanks for your video. But I caní find the PDF in your Mega-File?!
@@frankj5565 I found them in the zip file when viewing it on a pc
@@kaherdin That´s strange, I have five files, but no PDF
Hi Frank, sorry buddy, I left out the most important file. Please re-download it from the previous link it should be there now.@@frankj5565
Thanks for the updated process on Klipperizing an Ender 3 V2. I guess I won't be updating my OG Ender3 with a v4.2.2 board and klipper. I haven't had any problems when I klipperized my OGE3 about a year ago and I've been running it without updates. LOL
Also did you get a chance to try out the cheap metal heatbreak I told you about before?
Also since you did the dual belted Z from KevinAKASam, will you do a klackender as well?
Cheers and keep up the good work.
Anytime, friend, yeah, don't update it unless there is some special feature that your current version doesn't have. My buddy, Doug, said the most recent update severed the MCU link between the board and pi. Despite my efforts to find a workaround without having to do a complete reinstall, I was unable to find the solution. If you come across one, please share it with me.
All my machines thankfully are currently reliable so I haven't had the need to mess with leaky hotends. I recently installed a CHC Pro Volcano that comes with a 115-watt ceramic heater and 300c thermistor on one of my Ender 3 V2s so I can try and increase print speeds.
I'll make a video of it soon.
@@vbared I'll give you a heads up IF that's a big IF I need an update. So far Orca slicer is the only one I update.
Sometimes you really need a new hotend for your application. Thankfully ABS and PETG are my only filament that I needed the new heatbreak for!
Cheers!
Hi Victor, when tuning for pressure advance i get the following erroor when setting up
For direct drive setup copy the following, paste
into the console and send:
TUNING_TOWER COMMAND=SET_PRESSURE_ADVANCE
PARAMETER=ADVANCE START=0 FACTOR=.005
Error on 'TUNING_TOWER COMMAND=SET_PRESSURE_ADVANCE': missing PARAMETER
Interesting, the line below from the official Klipper document looks the same. Try following the test setup sequence from the link below to see if it works for you.
TUNING_TOWER COMMAND=SET_PRESSURE_ADVANCE PARAMETER=ADVANCE START=0 FACTOR=.005
www.klipper3d.org/Pressure_Advance.html
@@vbared Thanks Victor, the other issue I have when running the pressure advance callibration, I noticed in the console windoiw in Mainsail, I get the constant error
Unknown command:"M900"
@@ravkhangurra7522 Hello, Check your start g-code and see if there is an M900, if so just remove it or add an ; in front of it so the slicer will ignore it.
@@vbared My start code is as follows, i don't see an M900
M117 Heating Bed
M117 Preheat e to 160 and Autohome
M104 S160; start warming extruder to 160
G28 ; Home all axes
M117 Load Bed Mesh
G4 P1500 ; Dwell for 1 & 1/2 second
M420 L0 S1 ; Loading the bed mesh
; M117 Auto bed-level GO!
; G29 ; Auto bed-level (BL-Touch)
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 X0.1 Y.1 Z3.0 F5000.0 ; move to off the edge
M117 Heat E to temp
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z3.0 F5000.0 ; move to start-line position
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Extruder temperature
G1 Z3.0 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of surface
G1 Z0.3 F3000 ; move z back down a bit
M117 Draw Line
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; draw 1st line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; draw 2nd line
G92 E0 ; reset extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of surface
M117 Begin Print
@@ravkhangurra7522 Interesting, what about the end g-code?
I got an error once I added my printer.cfg file.
Option 'serial' in section 'mcu' must be specified
Once the underlying issue is corrected, use the "RESTART"
command to reload the config and restart the host software.
Printer is halted
Anyone know what this is?
Hi Kevin, On page 12 of the PDF near the bottom there is an LS command. Copy that complete command, paste it into an open PuTTy session and press enter. It should respond with a series of numbers and letters. That response is what you need to place in the printer.cfg file in the MCU section.
If the output says something like file not found or dir not found then try a different USB to micro cable.
would his work on a BTT Pi board? I know they have their own CB1 klipper image from 6 months ago!
Hello, Thank you for commenting. I'll have to update my printer that is running a BTT Manta M5P+CB1 to see if it completes without issues and report back.
@@vbared (1) Were you able to to complete the Klipper update install successfully on the M5P+CB1? (2) Which Raspberry Pi device should be chosen for the M5P+CB1 configuration? Thanks
@@makergc3d Hello, Thank you for commenting.
Don't choose any device in the Imager tool just select the image file, storage device and write the image to the card, nothing else needs to be done.
BTT CB1 image V2.3.2 is the only one that I've been able to get the TFT35 and ADXL345 working on. V2.3.3 won't even boot for me and V2.3.4 can't communicate with the ADXL345. So my advice for now until a fix is available is stick with image V2.3.2 and don't update Klipper from within MainsailOS because it will mess up the ADXL345 communications.
Klipper does a great job with their software updates and I guess work well with the Raspberry Pi folks but the BTT people either don't collaborate with the Klipper people enough or are terrible at maintaining their documentation.
So you are doing to need two SD cards. You need one for the Pi and another to move the firmware from your PC to the printer. correct?
also would you recommend the Biqu bed leveling sensor?
Hi, Thank you for commenting. Yes, you need two. One of them will live in the Raspberry Pi so I would recommend using the fastest SD card you can find within your budget. It doesn't need to be more than 32gb in size, just fast.
Victor the download does not have the PDF you refer to just 5 files. Please advise ass to how to get the PDF files for proper instructions. Thanks
Hi Bernie, Thank you for commenting and heads up on the missing file. It's been added to the video description and linked below for your convenience.
mega.nz/file/0BFggIyK#tXFD5PZR3MqqQfzVzwrTY1P5uaCtUSa63t_dmT5hy58
Thank you. I am a total newbie at this and need all the handholding i can get. At 63 years young and starting this as a hobby to try and keep my mind fresh. hope to learn to design things as well. Thanks for providing these informative videos.
@@berniegaudet193 I'm here to help, Bernie, been 3D printing since since 2017, loving the hobby and learning new things for others with more experience. Currently, I run a small 7 printer farm that along with RUclips's ad revenue allows me to continue playing around with different things. My goal with this channel is to communicate information that for me lacked enough details to instill the confidence needed to undertake some of the modifications discussed. If something is unclear, just ask, I'm happy to help.
You're going to love Klipper, it's a game changer!
Hi on the PDF on page 12 it mentioned "precompiled Ender-3-V2-Klipper.bin" I don't see this under the description. Is this available to download? I have the same Ender 3 V2 4.2.2 printer.
Hi Jorge, Thank you for commenting. Yeah, I need to remove that from the guide because in order for things to work the compile steps still needs to be done by your Raspberry Pi. In addition to this, I found out that there are two different control chips that Creality is using in the 4.2.2 boards. Each one might require different compile settings so using one may not work in the other, all of mine have the STM32F103RET6 chip.
I'll link my bin if you still want it , just let me know, but recommend that you follow the compile steps in the guide that creates the support environment and bin file in your Raspberry Pi for it to work.
@@vbared I followed the guide but since I'm using an Orange Pi I had to do install mainsail a different way. My ender 3 is basically stock and it has a 4.2.2 STM32F103 board. I tried flashing the bin I created but mainsail doesn't read my printer even after checking I had a good USB cable. So I'm trying to check if it was the bin file I messed up. Thank you.
What value are you getting when you enter this between the quotes into PuTTy? "ls /dev/serial/by-id/*" @@jorgewastaken
@@vbared /dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0
@@vbared /dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0 . This is what i get. Looks the same as in the video.
Hi mate, I got this config uploaded and everything looks like it should work but no dice :( I've the 4.2.7 board, it all works fine in the Pro marlin firmware just not on Mailsail / Klipper
I keep getting the following error "No trigger on x after full movement"
Hi Chris, great job getting things working to this point. Does this error message appear when you try to home?
@ Yes sir, when I try and home it trows that error :( would you have a discord that I can talk to you on?
@@vbared sorry for the spam, but controlling the toolhead / bed is working fine, just zero movement from the printer when I try and home, Also the Pro Marlin firmware works perfect
@@chrishurley5933 Call me 478-227-3301
I'm based in Ireland mate, call to the US will cost me a fortune have you Whatsapp installed?@@vbared
Hi Do we have support for a 5 axis 3d printer on klipper ?
Hello, Are you running dual lead screws?
@@vbared I am trying but i realized there is no support for klipper just marlin . I mean could be a huge contribution if someone does the kinematics for klipper . A task that requires time
I'm running dual independent Z-lead screws on one of my Klipper machines.
Add: Z_TILT_ADJUST after your G28 ; Home all axes in you start g-code.
G28 ; Home all axes
Z_TILT_ADJUST
Enter the lines below into your printer.cfg but make sure to tweak the numbers to fit your bed. The first set of numbers before the comma is X and after is Y
[z_tilt]
z_positions: 284, 108
12, 108
points: 284, 108
12, 108
speed: 50
horizontal_move_z: 5
retries: 20
retry_tolerance: 0.0075
Where's the printer.cfg file?
Hello, Thank you for commenting and heads up about the missing file. I added it to the zip file linked below.
mega.nz/file/9NcACDZI#VMIDaij3Yu6UIwnReTxbUEFby_Wlcg_0_Z8oz3FR3A4
Best of luck with your mods!