Ender 3 V2 - The Reason Why Your Y-Stepper Motor is Crazy Hot and How to Fix It without VREF Tweaks
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- Ever wonder why the Y-stepper motor gets so hot compared to the others that manufacturers put a warning label on it? In this video, I'm going to show the actual reason why and the only part you need to fix. Adjusting the VREF is a bandaid and does not address the root problem with the excessive heat of the Y-stepper motor.
Red Anodized Aluminum Y-Stepper Heat Dissipating Housing - amzn.to/47DJTxQ
GT2 Belt Tension Gauge Tool - mega.nz/file/N...
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I had an old cpu cooler and mounted it to the back of the stepper, just another way to help heat dissipate.
Strongly agree, adjust references and calibrate all pids
Hi Kenneth, Thank you for commenting. Yeah, man, many ways to solve this issue. I'm amazed that Creality and others didn't just implement a way to pull that heat away from the y-stepper. The Ender 3 Pro had an aluminum L bracket that attached the y-stepper to the 40X40 extrusion. It was an ugly way to mount it but didn't have the heat issues like the ones mounted on plastic.
Best of luck with your mods!
I am half way through your video, and it is interesting but I have some ideas for you to switch around in your head.
First off is if you do want the surrounding structures to act as a heat sink, you might as well apply some heat sink compound on all of the metal on metal connections. That will help.
However when you get the frame hot it will expand, not fast, but it will, so you will have a slight big of shift in your print. It will not be visible because is is so slow. It may not be visible anyway, but I think the proper way to cool the stepper if you must, is to try to isolate the frame as much as you can , and to add heatsinks and or forced air cooling over the motor. Perhaps a housing that goes over the entire motor, heatsinks stick on the motor in the housing, and a small fan at one end. That should take the heat away and not have any negative effects on the frame.
By the way, the steppers are rated for some amount of heat, if they are operated in that range they should be fine. There are no moving or abrading parts on them, the only motion of the coils is the thermal expansion and contraction. The varnish insulation should be able to deal with that. It should not effect the life of the motor. My bet is the bearings would be the failure point. On the other hand if the motor is hot, is the semiconductor driving the motor hot. Heat has a negative effect on their life. You may be worrying about cooling the wrong part.
Great CAD work though, and very cool seeing an idea drawn up and sent out and manufactured.
Hi Matthew, Thank you for commenting and contributions to this discussion. It's interesting that Creality's original Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro don't have the heat issue with the Y-stepper motor like the Ender 3 V2, Max Neo and S1 series do. I really noticed the difference when I was making my Ender 3 Pro more like the Ender 3 V2. Part of the process was removing the aluminum bracket that held the Y-stepper in place for the 3D printed part before I had it machined from aluminum. Some people don't want to open up their machines to tweak the VREF to get the heat down. I realize that stepper motors will get hot but when extra voltage isn't being used by them it just compounds the heat issue. It's a fine line under voltage misses steps over voltage extra heat.
Best of luck with your prints :)
@@vbared Thank you for the nice reply. My 3D printers are really low end, and I use them infrequently so I always seem to have old filament, so yes my prints can use all the good will you have to spare. I go back and forth from thinking I should just chuck them and get better, and than think most of the parts are not truly awful, it is more the design and perhaps not throw the baby out with the bathwater.
I had the same problem on Y-axis on my ender 3 pro, even after I adjusted the vref. The solution was a very tight belt. I loosened it till it was just enough and problem solved
Hi GP, Thank you for commenting and pointing that out. For sure an over tightened belt adds additional strain to stepper resulting in more heat being generated. Excellent contribution to this topic.
Best of luck with your mods!
Could you please share the 3d model . sty . Thank you very much for finding the solution.
Hi Joni, Thank you for commenting. The 3D printed one will deform over time, ask me how I know. I've had requests for the aluminum version just like in the video. Are you interested in one? If so email me vbared@gmail.com your info so I can quote the shipping.
Best of luck with your mods :)
I want to ask my ender 3 conversion to switchwire core xz with stepper motors x and z 42 40 and y 42 38 extruder using cw2 with nema 14 36 u what do you think is the ideal vref value? I'm still using Ender 3 V2's stock V4.2.2 motherboard
Hi Robby, Thank you for commenting. Please review this document that my good friend Doug O'Conner put together so you have a good understanding of how to correctly set the vref voltages.
mega.nz/file/oMcRACDT#ou7t6jmWfSxt_fzHo1caGeQ5vDVAIdThJdjzct4_G-w
how much does it cost to ship to Indonesia? I am very interested in the Y motor mount like the one you are using
Hi Robby, Thank you for your interest in supporting my work. Please email vbared@gmail.com your exact shipping address so I can get you an accurate quote.
Hello, I wanted to thank you for your videos, both this and the video about the stepper motor VREF adjustment was exactly what my printer needed. My prints were having layer shifts in the Y direction and I didn't know why. I saw this video and purchased this mod on amazon, installed it, adjusted the VREF and voila, perfect prints now with no layer shifts. My Y stepper motor is also MUCH cooler, even cooler than some of the other stepper motors.
My only complaint is that the instruction video could be a little more detailed and slowed down, or having some text on screen to explain some steps, such as using the new screws instead of the old screws to mount the stepper motor. I'm not much of a handyman so I was desperately trying to follow along without missing any steps. Once again, thank you for the video and product!
Hello friend, thank you for your encouraging comments, supporting my work and installation suggestion. I'm glad it solved your layer shift issues.
I would like to ask a favor. Could you please also leave this comment as a product review on Amazon so that others facing the same issues could benefit from this part.
I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks again for your support.
@vbared Done and done 👍. I've never left an Amazon review before so it says it might take a couple days to post, but this product is worth making my first Amazon review.
@@SuperJBgaming You're the best, thank you for taking the time to learn how to do it and posting it. I didn't realize how important reviews are until I started selling products on Amazon, especially on new products with zero reviews.
Enjoy your weekend :)
Would lowering voltages affect how much stepper motors move and expect under extrusion? Do you have a reference for the voltages? very informative video. thank you.
Hello mitoda, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. The stepper motors can only use so much of the voltage supplied to them for their movements, even under heaviest of loads. The voltage above what they can use is converted to heat. The goal is to find the minimum amount of voltage without affecting the steppers performance. That way the stepper uses almost all of the voltage supplied to it minimizing the heat generated from what's left over.
We put together this Klipper installation document and on page 34 there is are detailed instructions on how to calculate the VREF voltages by looking at the resistors on your control board, getting the specs on the stepper motors. The guide includes details on the two stepper motors that Creality uses on most of their printers.
mega.nz/file/0BFggIyK#tXFD5PZR3MqqQfzVzwrTY1P5uaCtUSa63t_dmT5hy58
@vbared Thank you, your guides have helped me tremendously installing Klipper. ist that an Evo X on your profile pic? : )
dear victor, at the moment the housing is not available anymore on amazon. do you happen to know when it's available again? kind regards
Hi friend, Thank you for commenting and consideration in supporting my work. More aluminum y-stepper housing are going out tomorrow, but if you want me to send you one directly just email me your shipping address and PayPal email address for billing to vbared@gmail.com and please use Ender 3 V2 Aluminum Y-Stepper Housing in the subject line. Shipping is included within the United States.
Hello, It looks like Amazon in the United States has a few of them left in stock.
Is this design uploaded to PCB Way for community purchase? It looks incredible, and I have 3 printers I would love to update, but without the files or the design on the PCB Way, there is little I can do.
Hi John,
Thank you for commenting and interest in the anodized y-stepper heat dissipation housing. I've had a positive response and will be making them available on Amazon. If you want them earlier and at a bit better price I can send them directly to you. Please email me vbared@gmail.com your details so I can quote the cost of each plus the shipping, also include your email address associated with your PayPal account so I can send you a payment request should you decide to purchase them. I can ship three of them out tomorrow.
Installation video - ruclips.net/video/0xDTvfdqDRY/видео.html
Thanks again for your consideration in supporting my work.
Victor
Great vid. I have the problem with my E stepper dropped voltage help to a degree. just gets to hot later on now? I have a metal extruder which softens pla when there are a lot of retractions?
Hi Phillip, Please provide some more details on the hotend you are using so we can figure out why the PLA is softening inside the heat break.
@@vbared Just a standard Creality hotend with a .4 nozzle. Done flow and retraction and some others that I cannot remember
@@Offcut55 It sounds like heat creep. Try adding a little CPU thermal paste to the smooth outside part of the heat break tube and slide it back into the heatsink. The reason for doing this is to take up the tiny gap created by the grub screw pushing the heat break to one side of the heatsink bore. I've found that the CPU thermal paste significantly improves the heat transfer efficiency from the heat break to the heatsink.
Give that a try and let me know if it solves the problem for you.
Hi Victor, another excellent video, appreciate all the content you produce. As a side question, I wanted to ask about the size of all the bolts and nuts for the v wheels on the Ender 3 v2
Also are they all the same size
Thanks
Hello friend,
Thank you for commenting and kindness. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
The stock 3 gantry wheel bolts are M5x30mm and use M5 lock nuts but if you want to get max 270 travel of the gantry then get the following.
1 M5x30mm
1 M5 lock nut
2 M5x25mm
2 M5 standard nuts and thread lock
Use the 25mm long screws on the top right and bottom wheels so they will clear the right side gantry bracket.
Definitely in my amazon basket to buy for my next mod.
Cool, let me know how it works out for you. Keeping things cool while the printer is enclosed is important to maintain reliability and extend the life of the components.
Do you have stl files for the y limit switch? I’m still using the plastic housing that mounts the y limit switch on the anodized cover.
Thanks Victor!
Hi Rob, Thanks for commenting. Yeah, sure buddy, here you go - mega.nz/file/JUswyKIT#sb_dn5mWXLDoJN7PIGnbL90oDl4RNY4_fv0A7l8fRfw
@@vbared Thank you Victor!!!
Rob
Anyone has the prusa gauge stl?
Hi Cesar, Thank you for commenting. The file you want is linked below.
mega.nz/file/NNsCTLYb#RG3fkxL32XSbnsS39FEDE1p_LaUhNHnESBlc-hfatYM
you had to design a part ad then machine it, a lot of people can't do that and it's jsut unnecesaraly expensive, just glue heatsnk fins on it and also place a fan near it and problem solved.
The machined aluminum part is just entirely innefective.
How is it entirely in effective when it's clearly reducing the heat?
Hi Splarkszter, Thank you for commenting and feedback. Yeah, man, there are many ways to solve the heat issue and I appreciate you sharing how you did it. A passive form of cooling is what I was after since it won't add noise. The stock Ender 3 V2 y-stepper housing also looks awesome in my opinion so designing a similar part and CNCing it out of aluminum allows the heat to move quickly from the stepper to the Y-axis 40x40 extrusion so not only is the housing acting like a heatsink but also conducting that stepper heat to the 40x40 extrusion for even more heat dissipation.
Best of luck with your mods :)
I want one just like you have
You're going to love it, the difference is amazing. I already have them installed on my other Ender 3 V2, both Ender 3 Pros and on an Ender 3 Max Neo.
Good looking solution!
Can’t wait to see what you do next!
More “red anodized aluminum” parts please!!!
What's going on Rob? Thank you!
No matter what I tried before I wasn't able to get the heat totally down on that Y-stepper motor. My wife drops her smartphone more often than most and this last time I decided to buy a ruggedized smartphone and it happened to have a thermal camera. Once I looked at the printers through it I realized the true root cause of the hot y-stepper motors.
Yeah, I agree with you. Red anodizing looks awesome!
you should do an updated batch with proper heatsink fins on the back facing side and include some cheap thermal paste.
Hi friend, yeah that would be a good test. I'll have to create a follow up video comparing the two. Thank you for the suggestion.
Very, very interesting and informational video. Thank you.. I really need to do these mods on my 2 Ender 3 V2 printers!
Hi Andy, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. Man, I'm addicted to making all my printers super reliable but you're right sometimes it's hard to find the time to do them.
Best of luck with your mods!
Are you able to makethis alumimium available for purchace.
Hi Elias, What's going on brother? Yes, thank you for supporting my work. I can make one up for you. Please email me vbared@gmail.com with your info so I can quote the total cost with shipping.
Dude. You did a z axis belt mod but still running a bowden set up? Throw a sprite pro extruder on there and run klipper. So much better
Hi Bennett, Thank you commenting and suggestion. A buddy of mine has a Sprite Pro and he also likes his a lot. My reason's for keeping the bowden is that I've managed to make it reliable and very light weight so I can print faster than adding more mass to the gantry. My CR10S Pro V2 is running a Micro Swiss NG REVO and because of it's size it will never be as fast while maintaining good quality as the Ender 3 V2 so it made more sense to me to have a direct drive setup on it instead. If I only had just one Ender 3 V2 then I would upgrade to the Sprite Pro, like you are suggesting or the Micro Swiss NG REVO.
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared That's why you run Klipper with input shaping. Plus, the bed is heavier than the extruder. You're only as fast as your heaviest part.
@@Bennett_Lab That makes a lot of sense, thank you. Determining the weight difference between the print head and the bed would yield some good data. I've been so focused on reliability that I've neglected the speed a bit. What kind of speeds are you getting on regular prints?
@@vbared I run it at 6k for acceleration (based off of what accelerometer/Klipper recommends) and 300mms.
@@Bennett_Lab That's awesome, really good speed for a bed slinger.