Just followed this guide for pressed fit pulley and worked great for the x-axis on my Ender-3 Pro. For Y-axis, printing the following y-axis damper+motor mount made it really simple! www.thingiverse.com/thing:3339725
Hammer is always a solution :D I think, that this is the common issue of people from printing community, to solve every problem by printing new parts, even if its usually not really needed :)
Same here, haven’t finished assembly yet and have been watching (and enjoying) all of your informative videos. Thanks for making this entry fun and easy, you’re doing a great job!
I noticed that using the packaging material is excellent noise-insulation to put under the printer. Just cut around 30cmx33cm plates and put them under the printer. I recommend using 2 layers, as the first one will get mushed after a day under the printers weight. 0 cost and no need to print anything. This removes massive amounts of vibrations against your table and so makes the printer quieter - and possibly improves print quality also. Combined with these dampers the results are fantastic.
Just added these to my E3 and printing a calibration cube now... can't believe how bloody noisy those fans are! The steppers are practically silent now. Great upgrade!
I used 3 on my Tevo Tornado and it is amazing - it used to be a symphony of weird sounds, now the next loudest thing is my control box fans. Someone recommended using rubber washers as well.
My damper made my motor stick out further under my build plate, and now I had to adjust my Y-Axis stop switch forward in order to stop the build plate from colliding with the motor. Probably worth mentioning you will lose build volume from this.
I just added these to my old Printrbot Simple Metal, and they made a huge difference - even after a bunch of other upgrades including a Duet Maestro, quieter fans, and placement of the printer on a large concrete paver isolated on top and bottom with felt pads. Well worth the money, highly recommended.
Maaaaaaaasive difference in sound! I wish I would have done this before printing all of the parts for the MPCNC, I thought my wife was going to shoot me!
a 5db drop is far higher then you think, you needed to graph those levels using a logarithmic scale as dB is a logarithmic measurement. For every 3dB, you have reduced the volume by 50%.
@@TeachingTech I just installed stepper dampers on my Tornado and they were great, but the biggest drop in sound I got was from putting the printer feet on rubber pads. There are also printable vibration dampers on thingiverse and some even use squash or tennis balls. You should repeat this test with those in a "how quiet can I make my 3D printer" video :)
@@TeachingTech www.thingiverse.com/thing:2913473 you need to test those. Their supposedly making a massive difference in noise level. Currently printing them out myself.
Just to let people know. On the latest ender3 I got, the pulley's are heat fitted onto the motor shaft so you cannot adjust the pulleys. I'm just going to get them off with a dremel & use spare parts I have to use this upgrade. Kinda a cheap, annoying move on their part.
Surprised me too... Its possible that the motor/pulley is from another mass produced gadget, like a 2d printer, & was actually cheaper to buy as a set. Trade is getting more complicated right now so they are probably getting more creative to keep the price down & maintain old profit margins.
I just got my dampeners in and went to install them and realized this is how mine is. So annoying. Is there no way to get the pulleys off and still reuse them? Or if I get them off, can I buy new ones?
@@MooKeeFPV very easy to by new ones. they are gt2 6mm pulleys. the important thing is to count the teeth. its probably either 16 or 20 teeth but make sure you get the right one so the steps per mm is right. you should be able to get a handful of them for 10 dollars or less.
Do not buy the dampers from Banggod if you don't have a removable pulley, their holes are too small so they can't be installed :/ Also they look like someone found them in a moist basement
Anyone considering this upgrade with a recent Ender 3, check if your printer has the same removable pulleys with set screws on motor shafts as shown in this video. Like others have commented, my new Ender 3 (ordered and received last week) does not have adjustable/removable pulleys on the motors - they're permanently attached, without set screws, I guess unless aggressively cracked off and replaced.
I've been reading this a bit now. I can only assume it must be cheaper for them to make it this way, or maybe users reported issues with the pulleys slipping.
Yup same is the case for the Ender 3 Pro. I contacted them asking them why this is what they responded "Actually we do not recommend you to add dampers on the printer. if you add damper on y axis, it will cause pulleys loosening and there will be layer shift on your print. so all printers have been updated in order to stop buyers from adding dampers."
There is a extractor on thingivers that should help : www.thingiverse.com/thing:3230712?fbclid=IwAR1aOBrRrbw2_zrDzPgMuTYSWkQx4OTTH11eU925eJX9xR5oUKabr5YXlqU
hub for what it’s worth, I’ve been using dampers on X and Y from the start, and I am not having any issues with layer shift. I did spend time making sure I had good clearance on the belts and aligning the pulleys for clearance all the way across the travel. I’m running it in my living room and the loudest thing is the fan noise, followed by the Extruder Motor (I didn’t put one on there yet, and might not). I’m completely new to 3D printing, and just last night printed the all in one micro test, and a benchy, and I can’t believe how good this printer is!
Creality updated the Ender 3 from my earlier version. The y axis needs a 3D printed adapter to fit. Search Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/search?q=ender+3+y+axis&dwh=465bbd91dc53144 and pick one. This is still a fantastic mod, highly recommended. Update: Several users are posting that the pulley is permanently fixed on the stepper motor shafts. Please check for this before ordering the part because it will make fitment near impossible.
I'm not certain how you made the ender 3 extruder damper work without under extrusion. Could you please explain it in more detail? Thank you very much, I've been watching your videos for quite awhile now!
Straya! One thing to note (I have a CR-10S) when you mount the dampers with just 2 screws, the gear head(? not sure what else to call it) on the steppers that the belts attach to, will bend towards the belt drive ever so slightly. I had to square the steppers with zip ties to the frame to pull in the opposite direction of the belt so the gear was a few degrees taut the other way. If it's not square the belt will rub on the gear head(?) walls and make a weird zipper noise. It will most likely wear the belts much faster, and cause extra friction. I tried to just loosen the tension a bit on the belt first, but my first print was slipping on the gear head occasionally. I only put dampers on the X and Y axis as there was no room on the dual Z steppers. The Z also doesn't seem to make steps nearly as much as the X & Y. As for the E stepper, I had extra short screws and nuts, and mounted the top extruder parts to the E bracket where I could, and it works just fine. Just make sure you have screws that clear the gap from the stepper and bracket. I wonder if cut sheets of rubber would work for the dual Z steppers instead.... Anyway, great video!
Thanks for the detailed post. I haven't noticed enough flex to need that intervention, but your solution sounds quick and easy. I guess each brand has slight variation in the amount of flex.
I know this is old and you might have figured it by now, but for anyone that stumbles across and might find it helpful: he just means that since the motor will be placed further back, the pulley needs to be pushed a bit further from the shaft, that offset. Otherwise you would push the belt towards the v-slot groove. So just remove the pulley, and reinstall it on the correct location after the dampers are there.
These dampeners don’t work anymore without heavy modification because the motors no longer use grub screws. Really annoying because it should be an easy fix but now it’s much more difficult because of the offset issues and the non adjustable parts.
I absolutely agree with your results. These things did the most for reducing the resonance noises in my custom Anet A8/i3 metal clone. I have the DRV8825 drivers.
Difference is hard to believe until you hear it in person! On my Ender 3 I had to modify my bed carriage to clear the stepper motor, I understand that is required on some versions. Did you have to modify yours?
I recently bought an Ender 3 with some of my tax refund, and I went to add stepper dampers. However, my Ender does not appear to have adjustable drives on the X and Y motors - no grub screws or anything that would indicate a way to make the necessary adjustments to these two motors. Unless there is some way to adjust these that I am not aware of, I'll have to buy replacement motors in order to add in the dampers. I would advise all new Ender 3 owners to check their printers first before buying the dampers, as I was only able to fit one on my extruder.
Not sure if you managed yet or not seeing as it's been a year, but there is a way around this by printing a bracket to mount it. Mine has the same issues of press fit pulleys and it seems to work well enough so far.
Those mistakes getting through drive me crazy. My channel is tough and growing quickly compared to other channels this size, thanks for the positive feedback.
One issue on the E drive is that if your not careful the rubber motor mount shifts the drive pulley as it has the ability to move either at an angle (as I have experienced) or just not as strong in contact during some prints. I ended up removing mine so the drive gear for the filament does not get affected and it made a big difference. The only thing better was to get a better drive gear that had more aggressive teeth and a slightly deeper cut than the original provided part.
Great vid. I ordered some of these and didn't realize one set of holes was threaded. Had it installed backwards and couldn't figure out how to attach it on the other side.
Just an FYI, there must have been a revision in the Ender 3. My Ender 3 that was purchased as a Christmas gift has pullies that are pressed on and don't have set screws. The dampers space the pully too far away and the pully can't be adjusted. The only stepper that can still be dampened is the extruder.
Did you modified something else on the Y-Axis, because when mounting the damper on the Y-Axis motor, it stays out a bit more, wich makes the stepper motor collide with the bed frame, before it can hit the endstop.
Just realized this. Bought these dampers thinking it would be an easy upgrade, turns out I have the press fit motors, tried getting them off, ended up buying new motors, installed motors, Y-axis is now colliding.
@@ikmnification5737 I found a fix for this. I just unscrewed the Y-Endstop (two holes/screrws) and just put it one hole further and just screwed it with one screw, so the endstop is about 1-1.5cm further, and the switch get triggered before colliding with the extruder.
I'm just super hyping myself up for when I get the Ender 3 and just. Holy crap I am so excited. I personally adore the cute and delicious sounds 3D printers make so I probably won't dampen mine unless I can't sleep at all. But tbh the sounds may be super comforting and help me sleep.
Hey I appreciate all the help. Im totally new to this so your videos are an amazing help. Currently I am having a problem with the stepper dampener for the bed. It seems to block the bed from fully retracting to the rear of the machine. When starting a print and the bed retracts it is a few mm from the switch and the bed shakes then says can't calibrate please reset. Any ideas on how to fix this? I would rather have a nosey machine than to cut it with the dremal. Thank you again u do appreciate the videos. JB
I noticed in the description that you we're saying you wouldn't recommend this anymore if I were to get a new board for the printer. However when I ordered the Capricorn tubing, the motor dampers came with it anyways in a kit. Should I still use the dampers if I'm considering getting the board anyways? Thanks.
Get a new board. The stock board is inferior to new ones, and you have no safety options enabled by default. I recently purchased an SKR mini e3 v1.2 (get the v2 if you can afford it) and it was definitely worth every penny! Loudest part of the printer is the fans and got rid of zebra striping artifacts on my part walls
I just did the same a few days ago. Just wanted to comment. The high frequency is eliminated and is much better as mine is near my bedroom. But my stepper motors are considerably warmer, maybe not enough to warrant heat sink but warmer than you report for sure. I also (as someone else said) had to print a part to move the x axis end stop as the carriage got in the way slightly, easy fix and I think this is only for the "newer" versions. Overall a very worth while upgrade.
I think the most noticeable would not be decibels per say but to combine that with the frequency. I think the stepper motors remove a high requency where the vents are a bit lower (and easier to ignore). And the vents are a steady noise where the steppers are only at play when they move the head which is not moving steady. Interesting test anyhow and nice to see the print and heat don't get affected. There are a couple of mods that you can't print that I might be purchasing thanks to your videos. Keep it up!
I bought these but found out my Ender 3 I got a week ago don’t have the stepper motors that have the gear piece that can be loosened and adjusted on the axle. Waist of my money now 😢
Great results! My Ender 3 arrives tomorrow, and I hope the dampers soon after. I think'll do the fans too. And maybe somewhere in the future the board even with some TMC2130 drivers to get it even more silent haha.
I'm getting ready to upgrade the fans you will get a very noticeable difference! Noctura for extruder an controller board an charging the fan in the pcu for a 10 blade fan an thermostat so it only comes on after 50 degrees an off at 33 degrees
ather akber well actually I have step down converters I'm gonna use an store in the control box so my fans are 12v an there my easily accessible except the pcu fan
Have you tried to talking directly to Creality manager or someone to include all these upgrades at their printers... that you guys created, make it and tested for free? I don't think the price of the printer would go up so much. Eventually to make it possible for each customer to customize the options they want on the printer ... I also mean upgrading the firmware and adding parts that improve the look or functionality. Is there a Creality 3D printer which contain all these upgrading?
Nicely detailed video, but, after a while of using it, do you see any signs of the dampeners getting broken, like a separation of the rubber and the metal? I saw some comments on Amazon about that fact and opted for going Neanderthal and just cut pieces of bike air tubing. It helps but not as much... If no signs are to be observed I'll be ordering some as I'm a fan of that... Thx! Cheers!
I've just inspected my three printers wit them and all are in good shape. If you are concerned, hopefully they are cheap enough to order spares in case.
@@TeachingTech could another option be 3d printing spacers with flexible filament? it would mean you could use all for screw holes and just reprint them when needed
As of today 1/17/18, the ender 3 from banggood doesn't have adjustable steppers (the collar that the belt lays on) so you have to get new steppers and pulley collars to use dampers.
The I3 plus has these installed for the z axis, which in turn basically helps silent the entire z and x axis. The idea of this is not to quiet down the z steppers, but to actually absorb the vibrations caused by your extruder assembly like x stepper, e stepper as well as the fans. Really smart by wanhao tbh. However, I tried installing these aluminum spring couplers for the lead screw and this reduced the noise from my machine considerably. Theyre like $3 each and I really do recommend them. The loudest part on my machine is the Y-stepper motor as it is hard-mounted to the frame and I have ordered these dampeners to help fix that.
In retrospect, do you still think stepper motor dampers are a good way to go? I noticed in later videos that you upgraded MB and added stepper drivers. Did you keep these dampers on or remove them?
I experienced a very hot extruder situation and had to add fans to my motors for a i3 prusa ..I measured the supply voltage and it changed from 12.5 no load to less than 12 V under full operation .When I adjusted the power supply back to 12.5 under full load operation the heat stopped occuring in motors and they ran cool..You can add a heatsink for the Y as it sits under the heated bed and helps. Not aving fans helps the heated bed maintain constant temperature.
One thing to mention is that newer generation Ender 3 printers have a press fit gear on the motor that cannot be removed or adjusted, therefore cannot have stepper dampers.
Great video. You have the best ender 3 series on RUclips. Would you still install these dampers if you were going to do the mainboard/silent-stepper upgrade?
There's remarkably little point installing a heatsink onto the stepper motor! Permitted case temperature is about 80°C (way too hot to touch), internal 130°C. The motor doesn't know whether it's too hot and cannot skip steps due to this, what happens when you overheat the motor, your grease/bearing endurance starts to reduce. At sufficiently high temperatures that i think you can never reach, the insulation of the wiring becomes suspect, and it's possible to have a motor wire, but the actual winding insulation is unlikely to be the cause, instead connector and distributor will show first signs of damage. The bit that needs cooling is the stepper motor driver IC on the control board, provide an active air path under the stepper ICs or increase airflow there.
They should be nearly a standard thing on most 3D printers going forward along with X and Y heatsinks. Printing over the southern Aussie winter I haven't worried about the heatsinks yet but I will be adding them soon. The Dampers on my CR-10S work great. On the extruder without adding an upper bearing on the main shaft I would be worried about deflection and loss of accuracy/slipping.
Hey Michael thank you so much for this video, I have one question, would you recommend changing the stock nozzle fan (Of my Ender 3 PRO) for a Noctua one?
I got great results by using Clip-on Ferrite Ring Core 9mm (2 on each axis) and 2 on the main power cord. Also I added 2 32x3mm round n52 magnets to the Ring cores.Things just Quiet down. Now I have smooth walls on my prints. Stabilizes the stepper motors.
If you don't have two additional screws for the X axis dumper, just switch the two long ones with two from the motherboard cover. They fit there perfectly.
I bought an ender 3 from a friend and he had uninstalled dampers with it but I didnt know what they were until now. I just set them back in the box. Going to install them when I get the chance.
I ordered these when I ordered my Ender 3 but unfortunately the pulleys on the latest Enders are fixed to he very end of the shaft and cannot be offset.
Something you did not cover... when placing the damper on the Y axis, you MUST grind down part of the bed support so that the bed can go into the home position! After i replaced all the dampers and tried to print, i was greeted with horrible Y axis belt grind. I found the problem to be that since damper adds few mils of dimension, this caused part of the bed support to run into the stepper motor when going into home position. I had to grind down part of the support with dremel tool and the problem was solved. (This could of course, be just my particular printer with older bed support and newer models may not have this issue.) And another thing... damper on the e motor was waaaay too much trouble than its worth. I would skip it if you are planning on putting dampers on your Ender3.
On my older model this was not the case. The versions since this video need a 3d printed adaptor, or some grinding as you say. Agree on the extruder, I took it off.
I was able to get my bed to clear the Y motor (just barely) by loosening the screws on the limit switch and pushing it forward, then loosening the motor and tugging it back a bit. I also adjusted the rollers on the bed to force the bed as far forward as I could. Combined, those tiny little tweaks ended up being just enough to get the limit switch to trigger before the bed assembly hit the motor.
These thermometers can not be used on small objects as stepper motors as they have relative big angle that they measure. It is not laser spot that measures. So in this case temperature of ambient environment is also measured. Print bed is it is not reflective is the only object in prusa-like 3D printer that can be measured using this device.
Great video! Just received my Ender 3 for Christmas. Bought a bunch of upgrades prior to receiving it and now it looks like they've changed the design. Stepper motors have a pressed on gear drive in lieu of the set screw version. No way to upgrade to the dampers without some special gear puller to move it. Is there any other forum besides facebook were a newbie can get advice (as I don't have facebook). Some minor issues I'd like to figure out.
I can't over state the value of your videos in my journey toward 3d printer understanding. Thank you for all your work. So, what about dampers on the extruder motor? Somehow I think it might be a bad idea, seems that the give built into the damper would cause inconsistencies in extrusion. What do you think? Thanks in advance for any thoughts you might sahre. And keep up the excellent work.
on a corexy this hurts the performance a lot. that's why voron uses a looped belt for the motors that transfer up with a 5mm shaft to the main belts! pretty cool idea but it's a lot of efforts and I can't find the ball bearings /shrug xD
It looks like Creality have done an upgrade. My stepper motors (except the extruder which is the same) have their pulleys pressed on. No grub screw or flat edge on the shaft for a grub screw. So you cannot take the pulley off to adjust how far it pokes out, so you can no longer install these dampers. Bugger.
I added a stepper damper as described to the Y axis of Ender 3, and when I try to home the axis the stepper now hits the bed carrage before it engages the limit switch, causing the stepper to keep attempting to home and making that racket when it can't move the bed back any further. Did anyone have this issue and is there a fix other than grinding out a small groove in the carrage where it hits the y-axis stepper?
Switch to Trinamic drivers. I adapted them for my FFCP /Qidi Tech One. Makes the steppers practically silent. It was about $8 a driver. I only bothered with X and Y. Also prints better too. Can’t recommend highly enough.
It wasn't exactly easy to put them in mine... Not supported by sailfish as-is. I had to mount them upside down, and had to be creative soldering to get things working. But so worth it.
I do not use stepper dampers but bronze bearings for X and Y. Search for Toolson P3Steel Mk2. On my P3Steel I measure 34db average using A4988. 40db on jagged edges. But I just realized that Ender 3 uses those bearings on alu extrusions. Too bad ;)
Hi, thanks for this amazing video. Just one question: You mention that your extruder is making this high pitch noise, and it is the same as mine. I'm new to 3d printing, so I was wandering if you would know if this noise could be reduced by some setting in the slicer. I'm also going to put the damper into the extruder, but I would prefer to have it without this annoying noise if possible (right now this is the only noise I can hear from the printer).
I used the original bolt with a nyloc nut underneath in the corner that the arm pivots on, then mounted the damper as per usual. Initially the spring couldn't cleanly press on the lever arm and I had the bad under extrusion too.
I got underestrusion only after a while printing with the damper. At the beginning it was fine. Probably the rubber started giving up against the constant pressure applied by the spring pushing on the gear. I would advise you to keep monitoring the print quality to be sure it won't get worse over time
This guy has a solution for the likes of us who have stepper motors with pressed on pulleys:
ruclips.net/video/IjzrNoFnbcI/видео.html
Just followed this guide for pressed fit pulley and worked great for the x-axis on my Ender-3 Pro.
For Y-axis, printing the following y-axis damper+motor mount made it really simple!
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3339725
Make a fixture to support the pulley while you tap the shaft out of it. Fit pullies that have grub screws.
@@ventilate4267 Does it still work perfectly when putting the fit pulley back on the stepper motor?
Hammer is always a solution :D I think, that this is the common issue of people from printing community, to solve every problem by printing new parts, even if its usually not really needed :)
Or go to home Depot, buy a pulley puller, pop it off in 10 seconds and return it.
WHAT? I CAN'T HEAR YOU OVER THE WEEYOOWEEYOO OF MY ENDER 3
hahahahah :-)
I can't understand how you could make that sound into a word... so accurately...
I just got my first 3d printer, the ender 3 a few days ago and have been watching all your videos learning so much. thank you for uploading!!
These are my favourite comments. Thanks for watching and welcome to a great hobby :)
Same here, haven’t finished assembly yet and have been watching (and enjoying) all of your informative videos. Thanks for making this entry fun and easy, you’re doing a great job!
Pro tip: steal two M3x8 screws from the lcd so you don't have to buy them. The lcd is fine with the two it will have left.
Great tip :)
Geweldig, thanks Maarten
LCD dislikes this
@@TheSolderingGuy007 LCD can go fuck it self
Was litterly sawing off the 2 screws that were too long... got through one after a long time and gave up... then i see this
I noticed that using the packaging material is excellent noise-insulation to put under the printer. Just cut around 30cmx33cm plates and put them under the printer. I recommend using 2 layers, as the first one will get mushed after a day under the printers weight. 0 cost and no need to print anything. This removes massive amounts of vibrations against your table and so makes the printer quieter - and possibly improves print quality also. Combined with these dampers the results are fantastic.
Good job on using data to truly show differences.
Just added these to my E3 and printing a calibration cube now... can't believe how bloody noisy those fans are! The steppers are practically silent now. Great upgrade!
New Ender 3 Pro user here, love the videos... any research I do your videos are the first I click on. Thanks a bunch, keep up the good work.
I used 3 on my Tevo Tornado and it is amazing - it used to be a symphony of weird sounds, now the next loudest thing is my control box fans. Someone recommended using rubber washers as well.
My damper made my motor stick out further under my build plate, and now I had to adjust my Y-Axis stop switch forward in order to stop the build plate from colliding with the motor.
Probably worth mentioning you will lose build volume from this.
Please see the pinned post.
@@TeachingTech No post is pinned
@@TeachingTech where's the pinned post?
I ran into the same problem... how did you end up fixing this?
@@anthonyciofalo7005 I designed a new endstop mount, it's on thingiverse if you search "ender 3 endstop"
I just added these to my old Printrbot Simple Metal, and they made a huge difference - even after a bunch of other upgrades including a Duet Maestro, quieter fans, and placement of the printer on a large concrete paver isolated on top and bottom with felt pads. Well worth the money, highly recommended.
Maaaaaaaasive difference in sound! I wish I would have done this before printing all of the parts for the MPCNC, I thought my wife was going to shoot me!
Are you still alive lolz =))?
Is the overheating an issue?
😆
Currently here because of my GF. She slept through a 23hr print, I was awake all night making sure...need these ASAP.
a 5db drop is far higher then you think, you needed to graph those levels using a logarithmic scale as dB is a logarithmic measurement. For every 3dB, you have reduced the volume by 50%.
Your tests are so relevant and thorough, thanks again!
now you need to place a dense rubber pad under the printer and watch the remaining noise not amplifying off the table too. I did that
If so stumble across one in a shop I will test this.
@@TeachingTech yoga mat
Use the packaging material that came with the printer - tested and it works like a charm!
@@TeachingTech I just installed stepper dampers on my Tornado and they were great, but the biggest drop in sound I got was from putting the printer feet on rubber pads. There are also printable vibration dampers on thingiverse and some even use squash or tennis balls. You should repeat this test with those in a "how quiet can I make my 3D printer" video :)
@@TeachingTech www.thingiverse.com/thing:2913473 you need to test those. Their supposedly making a massive difference in noise level.
Currently printing them out myself.
Exactly what I needed to know! You are easily one of the BEST 3D printing channels out there!
Just to let people know. On the latest ender3 I got, the pulley's are heat fitted onto the motor shaft so you cannot adjust the pulleys. I'm just going to get them off with a dremel & use spare parts I have to use this upgrade. Kinda a cheap, annoying move on their part.
Hmm that is surprising because it sounds more expensive for them.
Surprised me too... Its possible that the motor/pulley is from another mass produced gadget, like a 2d printer, & was actually cheaper to buy as a set. Trade is getting more complicated right now so they are probably getting more creative to keep the price down & maintain old profit margins.
I just got my dampeners in and went to install them and realized this is how mine is. So annoying. Is there no way to get the pulleys off and still reuse them? Or if I get them off, can I buy new ones?
@@MooKeeFPV very easy to by new ones. they are gt2 6mm pulleys. the important thing is to count the teeth. its probably either 16 or 20 teeth but make sure you get the right one so the steps per mm is right. you should be able to get a handful of them for 10 dollars or less.
Bore in mine is 5mm, not 6!
What if I can’t unscrew the gears on the stepper motors
The new ender 3 pro series does not work with those, dampers 4:39 shows how you adjust the pulley - you cannot do that anymore with the new series.
Do not buy the dampers from Banggod if you don't have a removable pulley, their holes are too small so they can't be installed :/
Also they look like someone found them in a moist basement
I should've seen this comment before buying
Anyone considering this upgrade with a recent Ender 3, check if your printer has the same removable pulleys with set screws on motor shafts as shown in this video. Like others have commented, my new Ender 3 (ordered and received last week) does not have adjustable/removable pulleys on the motors - they're permanently attached, without set screws, I guess unless aggressively cracked off and replaced.
I've been reading this a bit now. I can only assume it must be cheaper for them to make it this way, or maybe users reported issues with the pulleys slipping.
Just got mine direct from Creality via amazon, it has screws in those spots.
Yup same is the case for the Ender 3 Pro. I contacted them asking them why this is what they responded "Actually we do not recommend you to add dampers on the printer. if you add damper on y axis, it will cause pulleys loosening and there will be layer shift on your print. so all printers have been updated in order to stop buyers from adding dampers."
There is a extractor on thingivers that should help : www.thingiverse.com/thing:3230712?fbclid=IwAR1aOBrRrbw2_zrDzPgMuTYSWkQx4OTTH11eU925eJX9xR5oUKabr5YXlqU
hub for what it’s worth, I’ve been using dampers on X and Y from the start, and I am not having any issues with layer shift. I did spend time making sure I had good clearance on the belts and aligning the pulleys for clearance all the way across the travel. I’m running it in my living room and the loudest thing is the fan noise, followed by the Extruder Motor (I didn’t put one on there yet, and might not).
I’m completely new to 3D printing, and just last night printed the all in one micro test, and a benchy, and I can’t believe how good this printer is!
With the stepper on my Y axis motor, my motor collides with the bed, and the bed cannot hit the button/sensor for the homing process, please help
Same
Creality updated the Ender 3 from my earlier version. The y axis needs a 3D printed adapter to fit. Search Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/search?q=ender+3+y+axis&dwh=465bbd91dc53144 and pick one. This is still a fantastic mod, highly recommended.
Update: Several users are posting that the pulley is permanently fixed on the stepper motor shafts. Please check for this before ordering the part because it will make fitment near impossible.
Have yet to do this mod but am planning to. Any suggestions on which adapter is best?
I don't sorry, haven't needed it on either of mine. Lots of suggestions in the comments below.
Implemented the y-axis fix with this adapter. www.thingiverse.com/thing:2879245
Very happy with the results!
@@toddd.8496 Thanks for sharing that link.
I'm not certain how you made the ender 3 extruder damper work without under extrusion. Could you please explain it in more detail? Thank you very much, I've been watching your videos for quite awhile now!
I just got in a set of dampeners and only put one on the Y axis. I was blown away by the noise reduction.
Straya! One thing to note (I have a CR-10S) when you mount the dampers with just 2 screws, the gear head(? not sure what else to call it) on the steppers that the belts attach to, will bend towards the belt drive ever so slightly. I had to square the steppers with zip ties to the frame to pull in the opposite direction of the belt so the gear was a few degrees taut the other way. If it's not square the belt will rub on the gear head(?) walls and make a weird zipper noise. It will most likely wear the belts much faster, and cause extra friction. I tried to just loosen the tension a bit on the belt first, but my first print was slipping on the gear head occasionally. I only put dampers on the X and Y axis as there was no room on the dual Z steppers. The Z also doesn't seem to make steps nearly as much as the X & Y. As for the E stepper, I had extra short screws and nuts, and mounted the top extruder parts to the E bracket where I could, and it works just fine. Just make sure you have screws that clear the gap from the stepper and bracket. I wonder if cut sheets of rubber would work for the dual Z steppers instead.... Anyway, great video!
Thanks for the detailed post. I haven't noticed enough flex to need that intervention, but your solution sounds quick and easy. I guess each brand has slight variation in the amount of flex.
@@TeachingTech could be the brand of dampers. My rubber on the dampers could be softer, leading to more tilt on the stepper.
Thanks for the video! Just a little advice, don't point lasers at your camera. They can wreck cameras quite easily.
4:12 what do you mean by “this is gonna need to change its offset” and how do you do it?
I know this is old and you might have figured it by now, but for anyone that stumbles across and might find it helpful: he just means that since the motor will be placed further back, the pulley needs to be pushed a bit further from the shaft, that offset. Otherwise you would push the belt towards the v-slot groove.
So just remove the pulley, and reinstall it on the correct location after the dampers are there.
These dampeners don’t work anymore without heavy modification because the motors no longer use grub screws. Really annoying because it should be an easy fix but now it’s much more difficult because of the offset issues and the non adjustable parts.
I got a ender 3 a couple months ago and it’s has the grub screws
Wish I read this before I bought mine 😂 mine are now fixed l, received my ender 3 3 weeks ago
I absolutely agree with your results. These things did the most for reducing the resonance noises in my custom Anet A8/i3 metal clone. I have the DRV8825 drivers.
Glad it worked for both of us.
My stepper dampers arrived last week, I must get round to fitting them :)
Difference is hard to believe until you hear it in person! On my Ender 3 I had to modify my bed carriage to clear the stepper motor, I understand that is required on some versions. Did you have to modify yours?
Checked and everything just clears. Guess I got lucky.
I had to grind off some of the carriage to make it fit.
Having the same problem. I was wondering if anyone else had this collision. Time bust out the dremmel!
Pretty easy fix. I used a black permanent marker to quickly finish it off the shiny edge after filing it down.
Yep I ran into the plate but Ill dremel it out later ..
2:30 Actually, 3db is equal to double the volume if I'm not mistaken
Thank you! This is the only video I have found that let me know there are screws under that stupid sticker!
I recently bought an Ender 3 with some of my tax refund, and I went to add stepper dampers. However, my Ender does not appear to have adjustable drives on the X and Y motors - no grub screws or anything that would indicate a way to make the necessary adjustments to these two motors. Unless there is some way to adjust these that I am not aware of, I'll have to buy replacement motors in order to add in the dampers. I would advise all new Ender 3 owners to check their printers first before buying the dampers, as I was only able to fit one on my extruder.
Not sure if you managed yet or not seeing as it's been a year, but there is a way around this by printing a bracket to mount it. Mine has the same issues of press fit pulleys and it seems to work well enough so far.
@@blakeklunder9643 can you send me a link for thoose?
@@arunschranz6137 its been a while since I looked at it but I think this will work. www.thingiverse.com/thing:3245255
@@blakeklunder9643 k thanks
Not sure why you only have 8k subs. Your videos are very informative and well produced. Let's just ignore the before-->before mistake in this video :D
Those mistakes getting through drive me crazy. My channel is tough and growing quickly compared to other channels this size, thanks for the positive feedback.
where can I find the screw to increase the offset to the engine? the one you see at 4:09
Best thing a bought well worth it no more vibration and no sound except the fan of the psu
Agreed they work great.
One issue on the E drive is that if your not careful the rubber motor mount shifts the drive pulley as it has the ability to move either at an angle (as I have experienced) or just not as strong in contact during some prints. I ended up removing mine so the drive gear for the filament does not get affected and it made a big difference. The only thing better was to get a better drive gear that had more aggressive teeth and a slightly deeper cut than the original provided part.
I ended up removing E damper after filming this. I agree it's more trouble than it's worth.
Great vid. I ordered some of these and didn't realize one set of holes was threaded. Had it installed backwards and couldn't figure out how to attach it on the other side.
A fair enough mistake (although still funny).
But don't these cause ghosting or anything? doesn't the rubber flex with the torque of the motor stop/starting/ direction changes?
Just an FYI, there must have been a revision in the Ender 3. My Ender 3 that was purchased as a Christmas gift has pullies that are pressed on and don't have set screws. The dampers space the pully too far away and the pully can't be adjusted. The only stepper that can still be dampened is the extruder.
Great video. Complaints at home from the noise so I will be getting a pair of dampers. Many thanks
It really does make a big difference.
Did you modified something else on the Y-Axis, because when mounting the damper on the Y-Axis motor, it stays out a bit more, wich makes the stepper motor collide with the bed frame, before it can hit the endstop.
Just realized this. Bought these dampers thinking it would be an easy upgrade, turns out I have the press fit motors, tried getting them off, ended up buying new motors, installed motors, Y-axis is now colliding.
@@ikmnification5737 I found a fix for this. I just unscrewed the Y-Endstop (two holes/screrws) and just put it one hole further and just screwed it with one screw, so the endstop is about 1-1.5cm further, and the switch get triggered before colliding with the extruder.
I'm just super hyping myself up for when I get the Ender 3 and just. Holy crap I am so excited. I personally adore the cute and delicious sounds 3D printers make so I probably won't dampen mine unless I can't sleep at all. But tbh the sounds may be super comforting and help me sleep.
Hey I appreciate all the help. Im totally new to this so your videos are an amazing help. Currently I am having a problem with the stepper dampener for the bed. It seems to block the bed from fully retracting to the rear of the machine. When starting a print and the bed retracts it is a few mm from the switch and the bed shakes then says can't calibrate please reset. Any ideas on how to fix this? I would rather have a nosey machine than to cut it with the dremal. Thank you again u do appreciate the videos. JB
Check out the pinned post, it will help.
HI MICHEAL MY ENDER 3 2018 MODEL HAS FIXED PULLEY WHEELS ON STEPPER MOTORS HOW DO I REMOVE TO FIT DAMPERS
I noticed in the description that you we're saying you wouldn't recommend this anymore if I were to get a new board for the printer. However when I ordered the Capricorn tubing, the motor dampers came with it anyways in a kit. Should I still use the dampers if I'm considering getting the board anyways? Thanks.
Get a new board. The stock board is inferior to new ones, and you have no safety options enabled by default. I recently purchased an SKR mini e3 v1.2 (get the v2 if you can afford it) and it was definitely worth every penny! Loudest part of the printer is the fans and got rid of zebra striping artifacts on my part walls
You can hear the printer after the upgrade here ruclips.net/video/KmJcZ9SIOtc/видео.html
I just did the same a few days ago. Just wanted to comment. The high frequency is eliminated and is much better as mine is near my bedroom. But my stepper motors are considerably warmer, maybe not enough to warrant heat sink but warmer than you report for sure. I also (as someone else said) had to print a part to move the x axis end stop as the carriage got in the way slightly, easy fix and I think this is only for the "newer" versions. Overall a very worth while upgrade.
The little changes happening to this printer are making universal mods hard to do.
My steppers get over 50°C now that they have dampeners, sure the 28° ambient temperature is not helping.
Yep...same with mine. Temp on steppers is up for sure.
Ian Lainchbury luckily I have been able to print for over 20h without issues so far. I ordered some heatsinks anyway :-)
thesimbon Just ordered some myself :)
I think the most noticeable would not be decibels per say but to combine that with the frequency. I think the stepper motors remove a high requency where the vents are a bit lower (and easier to ignore). And the vents are a steady noise where the steppers are only at play when they move the head which is not moving steady. Interesting test anyhow and nice to see the print and heat don't get affected. There are a couple of mods that you can't print that I might be purchasing thanks to your videos. Keep it up!
Thanks for watching. I agree completely with your summary.
I bought these but found out my Ender 3 I got a week ago don’t have the stepper motors that have the gear piece that can be loosened and adjusted on the axle. Waist of my money now 😢
Great results! My Ender 3 arrives tomorrow, and I hope the dampers soon after. I think'll do the fans too. And maybe somewhere in the future the board even with some TMC2130 drivers to get it even more silent haha.
Quiet printers are underrated. One of the best things about my mk3.
Would be cool to see the sound spectrum difference
I'm getting ready to upgrade the fans you will get a very noticeable difference! Noctura for extruder an controller board an charging the fan in the pcu for a 10 blade fan an thermostat so it only comes on after 50 degrees an off at 33 degrees
andrew grabowski did you get the 24v fans from noctua?
ather akber yes of course
Link please?
ather akber well actually I have step down converters I'm gonna use an store in the control box so my fans are 12v an there my easily accessible except the pcu fan
I've never found 24v noctuas. The 12v 40mm ones I purchased cost me $40 au each!
this is exactly what I was looking for
Thanks for watching.
I've also heard that changing out the main board can make them quieter? 🤔
Have you tried to talking directly to Creality manager or someone to include all these upgrades at their printers... that you guys created, make it and tested for free?
I don't think the price of the printer would go up so much.
Eventually to make it possible for each customer to customize the options they want on the printer ... I also mean upgrading the firmware and adding parts that improve the look or functionality.
Is there a Creality 3D printer which contain all these upgrading?
Nicely detailed video, but, after a while of using it, do you see any signs of the dampeners getting broken, like a separation of the rubber and the metal? I saw some comments on Amazon about that fact and opted for going Neanderthal and just cut pieces of bike air tubing. It helps but not as much... If no signs are to be observed I'll be ordering some as I'm a fan of that... Thx! Cheers!
I've just inspected my three printers wit them and all are in good shape. If you are concerned, hopefully they are cheap enough to order spares in case.
@@TeachingTech could another option be 3d printing spacers with flexible filament? it would mean you could use all for screw holes and just reprint them when needed
As of today 1/17/18, the ender 3 from banggood doesn't have adjustable steppers (the collar that the belt lays on) so you have to get new steppers and pulley collars to use dampers.
The I3 plus has these installed for the z axis, which in turn basically helps silent the entire z and x axis. The idea of this is not to quiet down the z steppers, but to actually absorb the vibrations caused by your extruder assembly like x stepper, e stepper as well as the fans. Really smart by wanhao tbh. However, I tried installing these aluminum spring couplers for the lead screw and this reduced the noise from my machine considerably. Theyre like $3 each and I really do recommend them. The loudest part on my machine is the Y-stepper motor as it is hard-mounted to the frame and I have ordered these dampeners to help fix that.
In retrospect, do you still think stepper motor dampers are a good way to go? I noticed in later videos that you upgraded MB and added stepper drivers. Did you keep these dampers on or remove them?
Thanks for sharing, unfortunately my new ender 3 has screwless friction fit pulleys with short round shafts on the Y & X axis steppers,
I've updated the description to warn of this.
@@TeachingTech thanks for the reply, my new Ender 3 is still pretty quiet compared to my CR10 & Kossel though,
I experienced a very hot extruder situation and had to add fans to my motors for a i3 prusa ..I measured the supply voltage and it changed from 12.5 no load to less than 12 V under full operation .When I adjusted the power supply back to 12.5 under full load operation the heat stopped occuring in motors and they ran cool..You can add a heatsink for the Y as it sits under the heated bed and helps. Not aving fans helps the heated bed maintain constant temperature.
Good info, thanks for sharing.
One thing to mention is that newer generation Ender 3 printers have a press fit gear on the motor that cannot be removed or adjusted, therefore cannot have stepper dampers.
I have a note warning of this in the description now. Very annoying that this cheap and simple mod is no longer accessible.
Great video. You have the best ender 3 series on RUclips. Would you still install these dampers if you were going to do the mainboard/silent-stepper upgrade?
There's remarkably little point installing a heatsink onto the stepper motor! Permitted case temperature is about 80°C (way too hot to touch), internal 130°C. The motor doesn't know whether it's too hot and cannot skip steps due to this, what happens when you overheat the motor, your grease/bearing endurance starts to reduce. At sufficiently high temperatures that i think you can never reach, the insulation of the wiring becomes suspect, and it's possible to have a motor wire, but the actual winding insulation is unlikely to be the cause, instead connector and distributor will show first signs of damage.
The bit that needs cooling is the stepper motor driver IC on the control board, provide an active air path under the stepper ICs or increase airflow there.
That's the printer settings software you used?
I wonder if you can test how effective as stand mounts under the printers legs too ?
I looked at this in the 7 more Ender 3 mods but it wasn't for me.
They should be nearly a standard thing on most 3D printers going forward along with X and Y heatsinks. Printing over the southern Aussie winter I haven't worried about the heatsinks yet but I will be adding them soon. The Dampers on my CR-10S work great.
On the extruder without adding an upper bearing on the main shaft I would be worried about deflection and loss of accuracy/slipping.
Thanks for watching, two good points.
Really helpful. My package has arrived and Installing these today.
Thanks.
Hey Michael thank you so much for this video, I have one question, would you recommend changing the stock nozzle fan (Of my Ender 3 PRO) for a Noctua one?
I got great results by using Clip-on Ferrite Ring Core 9mm (2 on each axis) and 2 on the main power cord. Also I added 2 32x3mm round n52 magnets to the Ring cores.Things just Quiet down. Now I have smooth walls on my prints. Stabilizes the stepper motors.
If you don't have two additional screws for the X axis dumper, just switch the two long ones with two from the motherboard cover. They fit there perfectly.
I bought an ender 3 from a friend and he had uninstalled dampers with it but I didnt know what they were until now. I just set them back in the box. Going to install them when I get the chance.
I ordered these when I ordered my Ender 3 but unfortunately the pulleys on the latest Enders are fixed to he very end of the shaft and cannot be offset.
This needs to be higher up on the list. Thankfully I looked before I began disassembly.
Something you did not cover... when placing the damper on the Y axis, you MUST grind down part of the bed support so that the bed can go into the home position! After i replaced all the dampers and tried to print, i was greeted with horrible Y axis belt grind. I found the problem to be that since damper adds few mils of dimension, this caused part of the bed support to run into the stepper motor when going into home position. I had to grind down part of the support with dremel tool and the problem was solved. (This could of course, be just my particular printer with older bed support and newer models may not have this issue.) And another thing... damper on the e motor was waaaay too much trouble than its worth. I would skip it if you are planning on putting dampers on your Ender3.
On my older model this was not the case. The versions since this video need a 3d printed adaptor, or some grinding as you say. Agree on the extruder, I took it off.
On Thingiverse, look for thing 3083500 which is the adapter which handles the problem of the bed plate clearance.
I was able to get my bed to clear the Y motor (just barely) by loosening the screws on the limit switch and pushing it forward, then loosening the motor and tugging it back a bit. I also adjusted the rollers on the bed to force the bed as far forward as I could. Combined, those tiny little tweaks ended up being just enough to get the limit switch to trigger before the bed assembly hit the motor.
Is the printed adapter just to move the stepper back so you can use the damper or is this bracket in place of the damper?
I installed the same dampers on my delta printer. Over time the belt tension compressed and unglued the rubber. Not good.
>Puts the QR code back on
just tossed mine in the trash. never did work correctly when scanning it.
kek
My ender does not have any screws at the end of the motor to adjust the distance of the gear to the pulley
Unfortunately the Amazon link in the description doesn't ship to Australia. Do you have a local link you used?
Here are the ones from the video: rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F173379975839
Is that an Aldi temp gun?. I got the same one. Not bad for the price.
I think it was a generic eBay one but it has worked well for a couple of years.
Ganhou mais um inscrito.
How are gunshots and getal concerts the loudest things they could think of?
Hey thanks for the tips man. This is very useful. I just acquired a 3D printer and all your tips are very useful to a newcomer :)
This video is so well made. Great job!
Thanks very much :)
These thermometers can not be used on small objects as stepper motors as they have relative big angle that they measure. It is not laser spot that measures. So in this case temperature of ambient environment is also measured. Print bed is it is not reflective is the only object in prusa-like 3D printer that can be measured using this device.
Great video! Just received my Ender 3 for Christmas. Bought a bunch of upgrades prior to receiving it and now it looks like they've changed the design. Stepper motors have a pressed on gear drive in lieu of the set screw version. No way to upgrade to the dampers without some special gear puller to move it. Is there any other forum besides facebook were a newbie can get advice (as I don't have facebook). Some minor issues I'd like to figure out.
would an enclosure of some sort help with reducing sound? just a big cardboard box with egg cartons stuck to it should do the trick shouldnt it?
Hi and thanks for awesome 3d printing content. A question, have you mounted stepper dampers on a ender 3 Pro?
I can't over state the value of your videos in my journey toward 3d printer understanding. Thank you for all your work. So, what about dampers on the extruder motor? Somehow I think it might be a bad idea, seems that the give built into the damper would cause inconsistencies in extrusion. What do you think? Thanks in advance for any thoughts you might sahre.
And keep up the excellent work.
And I get to about 6 minutes in and find my answer.
The Ender 3 Pro doesn't have grub screws on the gear to change the distance from gear to motor?
I think this is a recent change across multiple Ender 3 models.
not only pro... Have you found the way?
on a corexy this hurts the performance a lot. that's why voron uses a looped belt for the motors that transfer up with a 5mm shaft to the main belts! pretty cool idea but it's a lot of efforts and I can't find the ball bearings /shrug xD
It looks like Creality have done an upgrade. My stepper motors (except the extruder which is the same) have their pulleys pressed on. No grub screw or flat edge on the shaft for a grub screw. So you cannot take the pulley off to adjust how far it pokes out, so you can no longer install these dampers. Bugger.
I added a stepper damper as described to the Y axis of Ender 3, and when I try to home the axis the stepper now hits the bed carrage before it engages the limit switch, causing the stepper to keep attempting to home and making that racket when it can't move the bed back any further. Did anyone have this issue and is there a fix other than grinding out a small groove in the carrage where it hits the y-axis stepper?
Please see the pinned post.
Switch to Trinamic drivers. I adapted them for my FFCP /Qidi Tech One. Makes the steppers practically silent. It was about $8 a driver. I only bothered with X and Y. Also prints better too. Can’t recommend highly enough.
I will definitely be exploring this for one of my printers, probably the frankendoodle.
The problem is that you need to completely swap the electronics on the ender 3 if you want to use the tmc
It wasn't exactly easy to put them in mine... Not supported by sailfish as-is. I had to mount them upside down, and had to be creative soldering to get things working. But so worth it.
I do not use stepper dampers but bronze bearings for X and Y. Search for Toolson P3Steel Mk2. On my P3Steel I measure 34db average using A4988. 40db on jagged edges. But I just realized that Ender 3 uses those bearings on alu extrusions. Too bad ;)
Hi, thanks for this amazing video.
Just one question: You mention that your extruder is making this high pitch noise, and it is the same as mine.
I'm new to 3d printing, so I was wandering if you would know if this noise could be reduced by some setting in the slicer.
I'm also going to put the damper into the extruder, but I would prefer to have it without this annoying noise if possible (right now this is the only noise I can hear from the printer).
What if i buy silent motherboard? Will damper be beneficial with silent motherboard?
No
I wonder if the motors run cooler due to the 24v power supply?
Rodney Wade my steppers run much hotter now
I got really bad underestrusion when applying it to the extruder.
It is not fully clear to me how you did it mount it in the second configuration.
I used the original bolt with a nyloc nut underneath in the corner that the arm pivots on, then mounted the damper as per usual. Initially the spring couldn't cleanly press on the lever arm and I had the bad under extrusion too.
I got underestrusion only after a while printing with the damper. At the beginning it was fine. Probably the rubber started giving up against the constant pressure applied by the spring pushing on the gear.
I would advise you to keep monitoring the print quality to be sure it won't get worse over time
Thanks I will.