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Been planning to buy the kit at the end of the year🎉

Ive had times where goo gone, or dawn, wouldnt do anything for an adhesive, however just simple mineral oil worked like magic. Funny how its always the task of lets see what works this time!

You might want to try after placing the magnet, heating it to near melting point of the glue and placing it down on the flat glass surface. I should cause the glue to become more uniform to the glass as it cools and I would put more weight on top maybe 3 times the weight of the bed to really force the glue to flatten out aginst the plate.

There's an even better extruder with the same concept: K3D Minifeeder. It uses same BMG components, but is mush narrower in width, allowing two extruders to be put closer together on IDEX printers

Wait you cant probe while the bed is hot with TAP?

does this kit works with bambulab printer ? if yes then please specify model ? (i have A1)will it be compatible?

Ok so i have it set up and working, however its always about .5mm too high. I run a test pribt that is .25 in height and when i measure its thickness when its done its always about .9mm. I tried adjusting the congif switch offset with no luck. Nozzle is clean. I also tried following the voron docs and adjusting the z position_endstop as well. I just cant get it to close this gap

So cool! Thanks for the video

How long did it take to print all the parts? I've made a few plates, and it looks like on my V2 350mm with Dragon UHF it's still going to be like 5 days and that doesn't include ERCT, surely that can't be right?!

Thanks for making this series! Very helpful.

Question about the presupported version of the Tophats. Did their support structure completely show up for you when you first sliced them? I am trying to slice that part ( [a]_Tophat_xN ) for the test printing and the support they include does not fully slice. Whole sections are missing and some of it starts printing in the mid air. This is on the Bambu P1S with 4 wals at 0.4mm extrusion width, 0.2mm layerheight, and a 0.4mm nozzle at 40% infill. Just as the guide suggest. I would like to have one solid piece but I may just have to print the 2-part version in they have in the option folder.

You know what, I'll try this, I'm having exactly the same issue and I've tried EVERYTHING, I know this can be caused by low current but seemed like a stretch, but if you had the exact same issue as me, then I'll try your fix

Moore James Lopez Edward Thompson Paul

I run 5 vorons and have tried sensorless homing. It just cant be trusted as SOOO many things cause a false positive. Voron was built for microswitches and SHOULD be used IMO. This is of couse my own experience and might not reflect what you might encounter but I've had to go back and add microswitches to my recent build.

I'm a bit late to this one. A very well produced instruction - good shots, and good clear audio. Thank you.

I think I would love to have some sort of filament runout up near the ERCF so that I could load a few blacks in a row and have the system auto-switch during really large prints

Hello, i have QIDI Q1 PRO, if i make this project will i be able to run it with my printer? the printer is klipper. Thank you for your answer.

Hi, I would like to ask if this ERCF v2 can be used with the QIDI Q1 PRO. thank you for the answers.

How does Tradrack compare to this?

HUGE Thank you for making such an easy to follow video on this fantastic Z-Calibration. Finally got around to adding my klicky probe and once I knew that was working all fine, I just followed your video and it was so easy to install and configure the Z-Cal. I used my feeler gauge and got it right down to 0.05 and that’s amazing and accurate. I’m so so happy. Again thank you for your work on the video.

I used kliky probe but don't see any instructions about where to wire on SB can board!

I have those same TMC2209 and my board is a manta 8, I could never get them to work to control the current from the klipper firmware, in fact, they are working as normal drivers, if the configuration [tmc2209 xxxxxxxx] if you know any tutorial I would appreciate it, excellent recommendations thank you very much Tengo esos mismos TMC2209 y mi placa es una manta 8, nunca pude ponerlos a trabajar para controlar la corriente desde el firmware klipper, de hecho, están funcionando como unos drivers normales, si la configuración [tmc2209 xxxxxxxx] si conoces algún tutorial te agradecería, excelentes recomendaciones muchas gracias

I have the LDO Nitehawk SB that I just installed. When going through the set up of the endstop pins for x and y do I use the original values or the update pin mappings that LDO documentation had me switch to? Referring to this section, use these values for the sensorless or the old values before the nitehawk? ##################################################################### # Endstops ##################################################################### ## XES - Toolhead PCB [stepper_x] endstop_pin: nhk:gpio13 ## YES - Toolhead PCB [stepper_y] endstop_pin: nhk:gpio12

Hi Kap! What 3d printed arm did you use for the servo motor? The siboor kit comes with a GDW servo. I'm not finding a lever for that particular one in the stl files.

So glad you made this video series, awesome job! I have a question though, where did you find the stl for the led holder and the diffusor bracket? I can't seem to find them in the ERCF folder, just one that is half the length and has no mounting holes for the led strip

Instead of checking supports are off, what about tune your support settings, there’s a video series, cura support settings by ItsMeaMade (off memory) and I have my abs supports dialed so well they basically fall out even with some very tricky locations.

3Dprint spacers between the t-nuts to get right center-to-center aligment

Great video :) I on my way to implement klicky on Anycubic kobra 2.

Best tutorial

Hola veo que todo el proceso esta muy orientado a las impresoras voron, pero quiero saber si es posible instalar ERCF a un impresora neptune 4, sin corte de filamento pues veo que no seria compatible con el cabezal de impresión.... gracias

37:13 Did you ever figure out the rgb issue with the can board? I can’t get mine to work either 😢

does Sibor sell that cnc aluminum red belt wheel separately?

Great Video, thanks. I just can't figure out what parts you printed for the LED strip on the ERCF. I printed all the options and nothing fits :(, can you share the names of the STL's you used, please?

Love you Video, I am building mine now. And I did not get the flexible sensor in my kit like you show, mine was rigged and to install I had to mount them one at a time.

HI Kapman, thangs for this what you do. i got the same package from sibor beacause i want to do this with you. everthing (at the moment) works fine but ca you pls tell me, wich servo settings you use? the GDW ds041mg runs not in the direktion it has to and i dont know why..

Toss it into the trash and buy a ridga or ridga clone (I'm using the hardened variant from fystec). Those clone bmgs have atrocious quality.

Nice work man! Considering even the best printers have max tolerances of only 0.1mm-0.2mm (side note: this is why LiDar on printers is a gimmick. The very best lidar sensors [which cost $10k+] are only accurate down to 0.5mm horizontally [x axis] and ONLY 2.0mm vertically [y axis, and yes that says 2mm] which makes them useless for the use-purpose they're being pushed as)... anyways back to the main point, anything below 0.1mm is not going to change outcome at all.

I've been following you and I'm so excited to see you working on this. I attempted ERCF about half a year ago and gave up at the end with the actual printing part. I really prefer following along with someone else so really looking forward to you getting to that part when you get time and get to it. I seen you ran into some issues so you've had delays, no rush, live your life :) Content creating is hard and massively time consuming.

hello, I am having some trouble. so when I installed my smart sensor and code it wouldn't allow my sonic pad to work and said I need to correct line M600.

Thanks! I printed it, built it, and it works great!

I know this is an old video but a tip for crimping the tiny terminals. -Get some double sided tape and leave the terminals on the reel. -Have two sets of tweezers and a magnifying glass. -Place the wires and the terminals on the tape. -Using one set of tweezers, press and hold the wire insulation into the large set of wings and use the othe set of tweezers to fold the wings over the insulation. -Do the same for the second row of wings/tabs. -Then you can break or snip the terminals free from the reel and finish with your standard crimping tool.

Working on building my ERCFv2 + Cotton Tail currently out of the TriangleLab kit. I will say that Siboor definitely did a better job with their kit - the flexible PCB to unify all the microswitches for the coupler blocks here, for one example, but also really organizing and labelling the kit. At certain points I had to bust out my calipers to make sure I had selected the right screws because TriangleLab just throws all the screws in a bag. I'm now hoping to find a video covering the entire process of soldering and setting up the LEDs for both the ERCF and the ERCT, because the manuals don't even mention how to wire up the LEDs for the ERCT or how you're supposed to chain them to the LEDs from the ERCF (as the BTT MMB only has one pin header for LEDs). Did you have any trouble with the support arms for the ERCT? I noticed in the CAD for them that there is barely any tolerance given to handle shrinkage, so I ended up having to shim the arms where the 3x M3x8 screws go in each in order to prevent the wheels from binding. The rabbit graphic also for some reason starts printing at Z0.4, and the bottom edges have a 45 degree chamfer, which caused me some problems. I ended up just modifying the provided STLs to be completely flat on the bottom to get rid of the chamfers and rabbit logo offset, and made the arms a bit wider to prevent issues with the wheels binding. Maybe my V2.4 isn't as tuned as I thought it was, but the support arm design definitely needs some work I think.

para configuracion en klipper varia?? si el motor de antes era un nema 17?

Great video as usual. It's been a month since you posted on the ERCF. I hope it's not because your having issue with it working. I went ahead and bought an Anycubic Kobra 3 Combo which has support for 4 colors until the ERCF gets working without lots of fiddling. I was amazed at how much poop multicolor generates. The Anycubic generates way less poop than the ERCF and it's still too much. Plus it does not need those huge retract reel. Plus it has a built in dehumidifier. I am thinking the ERCF might be flawed by design/

This is a "Fix" video for the Sovol SV06 linear bearings where the guy literally packs them with grease. I will find the creator and reply

3:13 whats the filament?

Thanks.

Just finished your video series, thanks! I'm very visual so this helps fill in the confusion I may have when I hit a step and reading the Voron Manual.

Thanks a ton for these videos, I just got my V0 kit and waiting to finish printing parts before I finally install so I'm binging your videos in the meantime to get a feel for what I've got in store. Very detailed, nice tips, thanks! Man I am not looking forward to the Idler assembly lol

Hey, I highly recommend the filamentalist as a buffering system versus the ERCT. Makes loading, unloading etc much easier and the spools auto rewind!