Thanks for the video! From my research, it's a good idea to set up the Nevermore as a heater_fan based on a low-ish bed temp (e.g. 40C) so that it runs both during the print and for a little while after the print. Something like this: [heater_fan nevermore] pin: PA8 max_power: 1.0 kick_start_time: 0.5 heater: heater_bed heater_temp: 40.0
Yea great tip. I have mine set up like this but to only start the fans at 85C so that it stays off when printing PLA and PETG. The charcoal should also last longer then? Will see how it goes.
I'm a Nevermore user. Installed a v4 in my Voron V0.1 primarily for PC+CF as it stinks when printing. VERY happy with the resilts. The trick it to use quality activated charcoal. I put a USB controlled relay on this that is easily controlled via Octoprint. Works great, but does add to the fan noise as I'm used to running Noctuas....I wish i could find a Noctual blower style unit.
@@user-yk1cw8im4h No, not really. I get all the goodness of Klipper with the benefit of plugins, a familiar interface and remote access. Yes it can be a touch finicky at times, but the ease of managing multiple printers via uniform UI and remote access wins.
I built the v5 with the extra large charcoal filter, so those blowers need to run at full speed. It's a little noisier than I expected. Noctua needs to come out with one, I agree! Next time, I may go for the smaller filter to quiet down those fans. Thank you for watching!
I know it's mentioned in the video but: MAKE SURE YOUR CARBON IS NOT ACID ACTIVATED! Acid can get left behind and when blown around inside your printer can lead to IMMEDIATE (Within an hour or so) rusting of anything that will rust.. I can't emphasize how horrible this would be.
You can soak the charcoal over night in a 1 gallon of water and 1tbsp on baking soda to neutralize the acid. Dry the charcoal in a dehydrator and you’re good to go.
Thanks for this. I ended up using a simple pair of flush cutters to snip away at the fan. No need for blood on this project ;-). I looked at the assembly pics from the Nevermore designer and saw the female JST connector is part of the design. I had one (or fifty) laying around so added it. The filter looks real nice now. Again, thanks... I didn't know about Nevermore until this video and now I have 2 (I built the v4 too, just to see which one will suit my needs).
Yes, I probably should have used flush cutters too. Since this project, I purchased a pair. I'm pretty sure I'm going to switch to the smaller charcoal cartridge to get better airflow. I'm glad to hear they are working for you and thanks for watching!
There's also a nice fork for resin printing machines (nevermore3d/Resin_Filtration) under development. Really good to see considering the underwhelming commercial solutions available at the moment.
Fantastic! I would like to purchase/aquire the stl files for the 1 fan version. I am sorry that I cannot find it at git hub, it is a bit confusing for me. Could you please point me the right direction? Thank you!
That's a really good question. I've been wondering as well. I have a charcoal grill, I was thinking of dropping it there once lit but either after cooking or quite a while prior to give the fire time to burn off any ABS fumes absorbed. I've also thought of just dropping it into the garden. The one thing I have noticed is that when it seems it has stopped absorbing fumes, I can pull off the charcoal holder and flip it end over end 5 or 10x to mix up the charcoal and then I can continue to use the same charcoal longer. It might just be my fans are not working so well, but you might want to give it a try and get more use of the activated charcoal you do have.
what if instal a piece of hepa filter on the exit of the nevermore filter? Would nt help to filter particles as well? Also, another question: I will not be able to connect the filter directly to my printer, but using a different power source. Do you think I can get good results with a 5v fan? By the way, I aquiered your carbon :)
As long as the 5v fan blows as much air as the 12 or 24v versions, you should be fine. The fans are not that strong in general and that's a significant amount of carbon it needs to force air through. Once you build it, you will notice that there is a light stream of air that flows out of nevermore. I think an additional hepa filter might stop the airflow completely. That carbon isn't mine, it the brand of the nevermore designer. I still use that carbon and it works well. Thank you for supporting his efforts and thank you for watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thank you for your time and good will! :)))) Excelent video, and I thougt you were the designer, but your video is fantastic :))) Well, I will follow your advice :) Thank you again :)
Thanks for making the video... Seems you are the only one. How did you mount the filter to the frame? I have looked at all the "base" files but don't see anything that makes sense for the v5 Duo? Does it attach or just sit loose below the bed?
The V5 mounts to the 2 extrusions that the bed is mounted to. You will need to insert t-nuts into those two extrusions and there are holes (one hole per side for a total of 2 t-nuts) in the fan body (plenum) of the Duo for the bolts to fit and connect to the aluminum extrusion. In hindsight, I should have shown how it's mounted. If you look at the STL in GIT, spin the plenum around so you can see the sides. The holes are visible near the front (exhaust) of the plenum.
Hello Kapman, Great video, helped me along with my build. Did you figure out how to control the fan? I upgraded my controller board from SKR Mini E3 v2.0 to a v3.0 to accommodate the extra fan. However, I am still having to run it manually. I was thinking about putting it in the slicer somehow, or would a macro in Klipper be best? Would like to know your thoughts.
I chose to not automatically control the fan. It's somewhat noisy and like the ability to turn it off and on as needed depending on the type of filament I'm using. Thank you very much for watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thanks for your reply, I asked/looked around on the Voron Discord and came to the conclusion that it can be done via the start/stop print macros in klipper. Once I get them up and running I will post the code here.
Under the Fan Control Banner I included: [fan_generic nevermore_filter] # FAN2 pin: PB15 max_power: 1.0 kick_start_time: 0.5 # Depending on your fan, you may need to increase this value if your fan will not start off_below: 0.13 cycle_time: 0.010 After the Macros Banner in the printer.cfg in klipper I inserted the following: [delayed_gcode filter_off_end_of_print] gcode: SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=nevermore_filter SPEED=0 .... [gcode_macro PRINT_START] gcode: # Parameters {% set bedtemp = params.BED|int %} {% set hotendtemp = params.HOTEND|int %} {% set chambertemp = params.CHAMBER|default(0)|int %} G28 # SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=nevermore_filter SPEED=0.5 G1 Z20 F3000 ; move nozzle away from bed M140 S{bedtemp} ; Set Heat Bed temperature ... [gcode_macro PRINT_END] # Use PRINT_END for the slicer ending script - please customize for your slicer of choice gcode: ... SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=nevermore_filter SPEED=1.0 UPDATE_DELAYED_GCODE ID=filter_off_end_of_print DURATION=300
Superglue is too brittle. The concussions from the magnets smacking slowly cracks it up and soon they are pulling out. Use epoxy, lasts forever. Little bit softer and can take the blows. Be sure to lightly burnish the magnet with medium or fin sandpaper for better adhesion.
These are good suggestions. So far, what I used has worked. But I'm also being very careful when replacing the charcoal to be super gentle. This was mainly because these super strong magnets are very brittle. They break very easily. Thank your for the suggestions. I'll probably make the change once a magnet pops off or breaks. Thank you for watching!
I’m in the process of building mine but I don’t recall seeing anywhere instructing to cut the fans like that. is this required for all fans in this nevermores?
I would say it's required. This is text and a link from the Nevermore Github site: "Check out assembly images (take note at how the fans are cut!) here: Nevermore V5 Plenum Assembly Album." This is the link to the images that show the cut fans: ibb.co/album/0BN405?sort=name_asc&page=1¶ms_hidden%5Blist%5D=images¶ms_hidden%5Bfrom%5D=album¶ms_hidden%5Balbumid%5D=0BN405 If you don't cut the fans, the air stream will only be focused on 2 spots on the filter instead of evenly distributing the air and making use of the full filter.
This is text and a link from the Nevermore Github site: "Check out assembly images (take note at how the fans are cut!) here: Nevermore V5 Plenum Assembly Album. This is the link to the images that show the cut fans: ibb.co/album/0BN405?sort=name_asc&page=1¶ms_hidden%5Blist%5D=images¶ms_hidden%5Bfrom%5D=album¶ms_hidden%5Balbumid%5D=0BN405 If you don't cut the fans, the air stream will only be focused on 2 spots on the filter instead of evenly distributing the air and making use of the full filter.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop thank you. Idk how I missed that but I’m glad you did a video about it or I would’ve been limiting or defeating the purpose. Thank you again.
@@csenior10 One more thing, I added a note to the video description. I forgot to state in the video that once installed, you should run a PID tune on the bed heater. It happens to all of us! Thank you for watching.
I only tool the fan covers off temporarily. Later in the video I put the covers back on. It was easier to make the final cuts to the fan covers when they were off. You do keep the fan covers on for the v5.
The design should have have really been made in such a way where you woluldn´t need to cut anything. These is no need for this at all, the blower fan works just fine with it´s housing. What´s the point of the design freedom with 3D printing if you still have to modify those fans ? Also how is the charcoal compartment sealed ? The air will most likely escape at other openings because it will take the way of least resistance, so a small rubber gasket or hot glue or silicone or something would be needed on that lid.
I do agree about cutting the fans, but I think the designer was trying to get air passing through as much charcoal as possible. But, it doesn't leak. It works really well.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop okay, in this case I am glad it works as intended. One more minor thing... shoudn´t a HEPA filter follow the charcoal ? I mean otherwise fine carbon particles will be everywhere including the air you breath and their effect is basically the same asbestos has on the human body. I mean look at any standard industiral filter it has alawys musltiple stages for a reason ...it´s not only so to filter out certain particles it is also to not release more particles... Sorry but this makeshift DIY product is not safe. I am a DIY guy myself, I am also a design engineer for crash relevant parts in the automotive industry, believe me you don´t want a design thousand of people all over the place copy and harm themselves.
@@sierraecho884 All good points. I believe the designer was more concerned about the gasses released from ABS when printing mainly. In addition there is a hepa filter at the top rear of the printer to filter out particles. So this is additional to clean what Hepa does not. I can honestly say it greatly reduces that ABS smell during and after the print. The activated charcoal pellets are very clean, but I suspect if it blows coaldust into the enclosure, the hepa filter would take care of the rest. I have never seen any coal dust when cleaning the inside of the printer. When printing ABS at 350mm/s, there is almost no smell now vs previously where family complained the entire house was smelling strongly or watery eyes. It sure seems like a major improvement. This certainly isn't perfect, but it sure seems better than the alternative of doing nothing. Thanks for watching!
when you say "my family wanted me out of the house..." Are you talking about your parents? Are you sure is the printer the reason your family wants you out?? 😜
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop oh good! hehehe... I've been printing for 5 or 6 years now. I started with 2 machines similar to Anet A8 and didn't leave the PLA comfort zone... printed some TPU and PETG but I didn't even try ABS until 4 days ago when I just put together a Voron 2.4. Between spare parts, mods, and a couple of big decorative pieces (to check the quality, mainly) I printed already more than a Kg of ABS. My wife hasn't complained yet, and at the beginning I thought that everybody has being exaggerating about the smell, but now it's starting to annoy me. I printed yesterday the nevermore, added the fans and installed it under the bed, I'm just waiting for the carbon to arrive... let's see what difference it makes. Anyways, thank you for the video, was pretty useful, I'm going to keep following on your mods!🤗
@@MrPeloseco It turns out I really like printing ABS. More than PLA or PETG. So I print a lot of it. Nevermore helps, but get that running prior to the start of the actual print. Also, it exists in two sizes. In the video I went with the larger, I ended up switching to the smaller charcoal holder as I found it actually works better with eliminating fumes, but it needs to be changed more often. Also, so your 2.4 is new. Just wait until you start tuning and increasing it's speed. A print done in half the time means 2x the amount of smell in that time....Nevermore becomes super useful. Enjoy the new 2.4 and thank you for the comments and watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Yessss!! I got the LDO kit revC, the good stuff, so at this time I'm a bit paranoid, trying not to warp the bed, making sure everything is smooth, no belt rubbing, etc... so I've been conservative with my settings. also reading a lot about klipper, mainsail, Jinja, the macros... a lot to learn!! But I'm loving it so far. My 20h print finished a couple of hours ago and I'm ready for my first acetone bath!!🥳🥳 wish me luck😅
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop GDSTIME dual bearing (make sure not to select sleeve, DB lasts longer). They are good enough, though I'm sure that sunon is fine
Thanks for the video! From my research, it's a good idea to set up the Nevermore as a heater_fan based on a low-ish bed temp (e.g. 40C) so that it runs both during the print and for a little while after the print. Something like this:
[heater_fan nevermore]
pin: PA8
max_power: 1.0
kick_start_time: 0.5
heater: heater_bed
heater_temp: 40.0
I think that's a great tip. I may end up doing that myself!
Yea great tip. I have mine set up like this but to only start the fans at 85C so that it stays off when printing PLA and PETG. The charcoal should also last longer then? Will see how it goes.
I should have thought of this. This is a great idea. Thank you!
I'm a Nevermore user. Installed a v4 in my Voron V0.1 primarily for PC+CF as it stinks when printing. VERY happy with the resilts. The trick it to use quality activated charcoal. I put a USB controlled relay on this that is easily controlled via Octoprint. Works great, but does add to the fan noise as I'm used to running Noctuas....I wish i could find a Noctual blower style unit.
holy you still use octoprint for your voron? You’re missing out big time.
@@user-yk1cw8im4h No, not really. I get all the goodness of Klipper with the benefit of plugins, a familiar interface and remote access. Yes it can be a touch finicky at times, but the ease of managing multiple printers via uniform UI and remote access wins.
I built the v5 with the extra large charcoal filter, so those blowers need to run at full speed. It's a little noisier than I expected. Noctua needs to come out with one, I agree! Next time, I may go for the smaller filter to quiet down those fans. Thank you for watching!
I know it's mentioned in the video but: MAKE SURE YOUR CARBON IS NOT ACID ACTIVATED! Acid can get left behind and when blown around inside your printer can lead to IMMEDIATE (Within an hour or so) rusting of anything that will rust.. I can't emphasize how horrible this would be.
Thank you for the reminder!
How to tell of acid is in the coal?
I guess you could put the filter in a bag together with something metallic and let it run for an hour or so, and see if it rusts or something
You can soak the charcoal over night in a 1 gallon of water and 1tbsp on baking soda to neutralize the acid. Dry the charcoal in a dehydrator and you’re good to go.
@gixrman a good safety precaution as well.
Thanks for this. I ended up using a simple pair of flush cutters to snip away at the fan. No need for blood on this project ;-). I looked at the assembly pics from the Nevermore designer and saw the female JST connector is part of the design. I had one (or fifty) laying around so added it. The filter looks real nice now. Again, thanks... I didn't know about Nevermore until this video and now I have 2 (I built the v4 too, just to see which one will suit my needs).
Yes, I probably should have used flush cutters too. Since this project, I purchased a pair. I'm pretty sure I'm going to switch to the smaller charcoal cartridge to get better airflow. I'm glad to hear they are working for you and thanks for watching!
There's also a nice fork for resin printing machines (nevermore3d/Resin_Filtration) under development. Really good to see considering the underwhelming commercial solutions available at the moment.
I'll need to have a look. Thank you for posting that and thank you for watching!
Have you looked at the Max? It's in beta now, would love to hear your thoughts on it. If you have time you should consider joining in on the WIP :)
I have had a look. Super nice. I have yet to build one. Actually, I should join in. Thanks!
How was the smell? Was it like wearing a respirator? I always get headache when printing ABS wonder how this would help.
Goo Gone smells like orange peels. So actually, pretty nice! But still, it's a good idea to have good ventilation.
Flush cutters are probably the safest
Something I need to order soon...thank you for watching!
Fantastic! I would like to purchase/aquire the stl files for the 1 fan version. I am sorry that I cannot find it at git hub, it is a bit confusing for me. Could you please point me the right direction? Thank you!
This is the link and the files are free: github.com/nevermore3d/Nevermore_Micro/tree/master/V4
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thank you very much!
Been using my nevermore for about 8 mo. Now to figure out what to do with the used/spent pellets. In the garden compost?
That's a really good question. I've been wondering as well. I have a charcoal grill, I was thinking of dropping it there once lit but either after cooking or quite a while prior to give the fire time to burn off any ABS fumes absorbed. I've also thought of just dropping it into the garden. The one thing I have noticed is that when it seems it has stopped absorbing fumes, I can pull off the charcoal holder and flip it end over end 5 or 10x to mix up the charcoal and then I can continue to use the same charcoal longer. It might just be my fans are not working so well, but you might want to give it a try and get more use of the activated charcoal you do have.
Then your transferring any hazardous fumes into your compost, same reason you don’t compost diseased plants😎
what if instal a piece of hepa filter on the exit of the nevermore filter?
Would nt help to filter particles as well?
Also, another question: I will not be able to connect the filter directly to my printer, but using a different power source. Do you think I can get good results with a 5v fan?
By the way, I aquiered your carbon :)
As long as the 5v fan blows as much air as the 12 or 24v versions, you should be fine. The fans are not that strong in general and that's a significant amount of carbon it needs to force air through. Once you build it, you will notice that there is a light stream of air that flows out of nevermore. I think an additional hepa filter might stop the airflow completely. That carbon isn't mine, it the brand of the nevermore designer. I still use that carbon and it works well. Thank you for supporting his efforts and thank you for watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thank you for your time and good will! :)))) Excelent video, and I thougt you were the designer, but your video is fantastic :)))
Well, I will follow your advice :)
Thank you again :)
@@JugularFilmes Fell free to ask if you have any questions in the future. One other benefit, this helps heat the interior faster as well.
And thank you for the kind words!
Thanks for making the video... Seems you are the only one. How did you mount the filter to the frame? I have looked at all the "base" files but don't see anything that makes sense for the v5 Duo? Does it attach or just sit loose below the bed?
The V5 mounts to the 2 extrusions that the bed is mounted to. You will need to insert t-nuts into those two extrusions and there are holes (one hole per side for a total of 2 t-nuts) in the fan body (plenum) of the Duo for the bolts to fit and connect to the aluminum extrusion. In hindsight, I should have shown how it's mounted. If you look at the STL in GIT, spin the plenum around so you can see the sides. The holes are visible near the front (exhaust) of the plenum.
This guide saves me! Thanks!
Glad it helped! Thank you!
Hello Kapman,
Great video, helped me along with my build.
Did you figure out how to control the fan?
I upgraded my controller board from SKR Mini E3 v2.0 to a v3.0 to accommodate the extra fan.
However, I am still having to run it manually.
I was thinking about putting it in the slicer somehow, or would a macro in Klipper be best?
Would like to know your thoughts.
I chose to not automatically control the fan. It's somewhat noisy and like the ability to turn it off and on as needed depending on the type of filament I'm using. Thank you very much for watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thanks for your reply, I asked/looked around on the Voron Discord and came to the conclusion that it can be done via the start/stop print macros in klipper. Once I get them up and running I will post the code here.
@@9618Dude Very cool. Others will be able to make use of it! Thank you!
Under the Fan Control Banner I included:
[fan_generic nevermore_filter]
# FAN2
pin: PB15
max_power: 1.0
kick_start_time: 0.5 # Depending on your fan, you may need to increase this value if your fan will not start
off_below: 0.13
cycle_time: 0.010
After the Macros Banner in the printer.cfg in klipper I inserted the following:
[delayed_gcode filter_off_end_of_print]
gcode:
SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=nevermore_filter SPEED=0
....
[gcode_macro PRINT_START]
gcode:
# Parameters
{% set bedtemp = params.BED|int %}
{% set hotendtemp = params.HOTEND|int %}
{% set chambertemp = params.CHAMBER|default(0)|int %}
G28
#
SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=nevermore_filter SPEED=0.5
G1 Z20 F3000 ; move nozzle away from bed
M140 S{bedtemp} ; Set Heat Bed temperature
...
[gcode_macro PRINT_END]
# Use PRINT_END for the slicer ending script - please customize for your slicer of choice
gcode:
...
SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=nevermore_filter SPEED=1.0
UPDATE_DELAYED_GCODE ID=filter_off_end_of_print DURATION=300
@@9618Dude Very cool. I'll need to give it a try. Thank you!
Superglue is too brittle. The concussions from the magnets smacking slowly cracks it up and soon they are pulling out. Use epoxy, lasts forever. Little bit softer and can take the blows. Be sure to lightly burnish the magnet with medium or fin sandpaper for better adhesion.
These are good suggestions. So far, what I used has worked. But I'm also being very careful when replacing the charcoal to be super gentle. This was mainly because these super strong magnets are very brittle. They break very easily. Thank your for the suggestions. I'll probably make the change once a magnet pops off or breaks. Thank you for watching!
I’m in the process of building mine but I don’t recall seeing anywhere instructing to cut the fans like that. is this required for all fans in this nevermores?
I would say it's required. This is text and a link from the Nevermore Github site: "Check out assembly images (take note at how the fans are cut!) here: Nevermore V5 Plenum Assembly Album." This is the link to the images that show the cut fans: ibb.co/album/0BN405?sort=name_asc&page=1¶ms_hidden%5Blist%5D=images¶ms_hidden%5Bfrom%5D=album¶ms_hidden%5Balbumid%5D=0BN405
If you don't cut the fans, the air stream will only be focused on 2 spots on the filter instead of evenly distributing the air and making use of the full filter.
it is required, you need to print out the provided jig to cut it into a circle. A 3 mins job with a flush cutter
@@user-yk1cw8im4h Is the jig for the v4? If there is one for the v5, I missed that!
I’m in the process of doing the nevermore but I don’t recall seeing any instructions to cut the fans. Is this required for all fans?
This is text and a link from the Nevermore Github site: "Check out assembly images (take note at how the fans are cut!) here: Nevermore V5 Plenum Assembly Album. This is the link to the images that show the cut fans: ibb.co/album/0BN405?sort=name_asc&page=1¶ms_hidden%5Blist%5D=images¶ms_hidden%5Bfrom%5D=album¶ms_hidden%5Balbumid%5D=0BN405
If you don't cut the fans, the air stream will only be focused on 2 spots on the filter instead of evenly distributing the air and making use of the full filter.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop thank you. Idk how I missed that but I’m glad you did a video about it or I would’ve been limiting or defeating the purpose. Thank you again.
@@csenior10 One more thing, I added a note to the video description. I forgot to state in the video that once installed, you should run a PID tune on the bed heater. It happens to all of us! Thank you for watching.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop ok great. thanks for the tip
I thought only the v4 needs to fan cover taken off
I only tool the fan covers off temporarily. Later in the video I put the covers back on. It was easier to make the final cuts to the fan covers when they were off. You do keep the fan covers on for the v5.
The design should have have really been made in such a way where you woluldn´t need to cut anything. These is no need for this at all, the blower fan works just fine with it´s housing.
What´s the point of the design freedom with 3D printing if you still have to modify those fans ?
Also how is the charcoal compartment sealed ? The air will most likely escape at other openings because it will take the way of least resistance, so a small rubber gasket or hot glue or silicone or something would be needed on that lid.
I do agree about cutting the fans, but I think the designer was trying to get air passing through as much charcoal as possible. But, it doesn't leak. It works really well.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop okay, in this case I am glad it works as intended. One more minor thing... shoudn´t a HEPA filter follow the charcoal ? I mean otherwise fine carbon particles will be everywhere including the air you breath and their effect is basically the same asbestos has on the human body. I mean look at any standard industiral filter it has alawys musltiple stages for a reason ...it´s not only so to filter out certain particles it is also to not release more particles...
Sorry but this makeshift DIY product is not safe. I am a DIY guy myself, I am also a design engineer for crash relevant parts in the automotive industry, believe me you don´t want a design thousand of people all over the place copy and harm themselves.
@@sierraecho884 All good points. I believe the designer was more concerned about the gasses released from ABS when printing mainly. In addition there is a hepa filter at the top rear of the printer to filter out particles. So this is additional to clean what Hepa does not. I can honestly say it greatly reduces that ABS smell during and after the print. The activated charcoal pellets are very clean, but I suspect if it blows coaldust into the enclosure, the hepa filter would take care of the rest. I have never seen any coal dust when cleaning the inside of the printer. When printing ABS at 350mm/s, there is almost no smell now vs previously where family complained the entire house was smelling strongly or watery eyes. It sure seems like a major improvement. This certainly isn't perfect, but it sure seems better than the alternative of doing nothing. Thanks for watching!
this is just smell, particules are still there
yes. that is the case. But those are the smallest particles. But I also have the hepa filter that I turn on before opening the printer.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop ;)
good
Bad light in this video, har to see details
Yes, an area I'm trying to improve in future videos...
when you say "my family wanted me out of the house..." Are you talking about your parents? Are you sure is the printer the reason your family wants you out?? 😜
Ha! It was actually wife and kids that wanted the printer out of the house....I hope :)
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop oh good! hehehe...
I've been printing for 5 or 6 years now. I started with 2 machines similar to Anet A8 and didn't leave the PLA comfort zone... printed some TPU and PETG but I didn't even try ABS until 4 days ago when I just put together a Voron 2.4.
Between spare parts, mods, and a couple of big decorative pieces (to check the quality, mainly) I printed already more than a Kg of ABS.
My wife hasn't complained yet, and at the beginning I thought that everybody has being exaggerating about the smell, but now it's starting to annoy me.
I printed yesterday the nevermore, added the fans and installed it under the bed, I'm just waiting for the carbon to arrive... let's see what difference it makes.
Anyways, thank you for the video, was pretty useful, I'm going to keep following on your mods!🤗
@@MrPeloseco It turns out I really like printing ABS. More than PLA or PETG. So I print a lot of it. Nevermore helps, but get that running prior to the start of the actual print. Also, it exists in two sizes. In the video I went with the larger, I ended up switching to the smaller charcoal holder as I found it actually works better with eliminating fumes, but it needs to be changed more often. Also, so your 2.4 is new. Just wait until you start tuning and increasing it's speed. A print done in half the time means 2x the amount of smell in that time....Nevermore becomes super useful. Enjoy the new 2.4 and thank you for the comments and watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop
Yessss!! I got the LDO kit revC, the good stuff, so at this time I'm a bit paranoid, trying not to warp the bed, making sure everything is smooth, no belt rubbing, etc... so I've been conservative with my settings. also reading a lot about klipper, mainsail, Jinja, the macros... a lot to learn!! But I'm loving it so far.
My 20h print finished a couple of hours ago and I'm ready for my first acetone bath!!🥳🥳 wish me luck😅
@@MrPeloseco I wish you luck with the acetone bath. Enjoy the new printer!
SUNON maglev - real ones only use 12 volt, there is no 24 volt official sunon maglev they are fakes
That's good to know. I'll need to keep that in mind when I replace them. Do you know of quality blowers that run at 24v?
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop GDSTIME dual bearing (make sure not to select sleeve, DB lasts longer). They are good enough, though I'm sure that sunon is fine
@@giedrius2149 I actually purchased a few GDSTIME dual bearing blowers for another project. So I'm glad to hear that they are good. Thanks!
can you at least use a headphone mic
I am. Was there an audio problem?
The audio is fine in my opinion
@@phorr Thanks for the feedback!