So very true. But honestly, I would wait until you have a better excuse. In my case I had a cable break. A 3d printer that is working well should be used! Thanks for the comment and watching!
I've just been considering this on my 2.4 and looking for videos and instructions. No need to make the video shorter. I love all the comprehensive details. Thanks!!!!!
Thank you for making this great tutorial! I have some comments for other people who might want to attempt this. Like briefly mentioned in the video it is also possible to send data to the EBB36 via USB instead of CANBUS for those that prefer that approach. If you use a USB connection no CANBUS driver board is needed and the EBB36 connects directly to the raspberry PI and klipper via USB like any "regular" controller board. This requires a a separate 24v/GND wire pair for power that connects to the CANBUS header on the EBB36. I have used this approach and so far it has been working well. Theoretically the USB 5v is not needed if the board is powered by 24v via the CANBUS header so it is possible to make a DIY cable with a twisted USB-data pair and a separate 24v/GND pair. However, USB is more sensitive to interference than CANBUS so all sorts of problems could appear with this approach. I briefly tested it out of curiosity and it works but I can not vouch for its long term stability. Details about the USB-setup can be found at the Bigtreetech EBB Github page: github.com/bigtreetech/EBB There is also an alternative way to route the cable from the tool head along the reverse bowden tube to the top frame and then along the slots in the extrusions back to the electronics bay for those that prefer that. There is a bowden tube guide arm by Demosth on TeamFDM that helps support the extra weight on the bowden tube from the cable. www.teamfdm.com/files/file/601-bowden-tube-guide/ Thank you for making these videos! They have helped me a lot when building and upgrading my printer.
Thank you for this link on the bowden tube option! This is pretty cool and may be simpler. I have not seen this mod before. I debated USB vs Canbus prior to starting this. I also saw posts that stated they could not get this to work via the driver board. I looked at the USB driver cards and figured I might as well go full canbus which as a hat is super easy to mount. I did not know one could connect this via straight USB to the PI! I also looked at connecting the EBB36 straight to the Spider MCU, but Fysetc had no documentation about how it's used whatsoever. But I'm really happy with how this turned out. It's working well and for someone that seems to be flipping the printer over all the time for modifications, a good chunk of the printer's electronics now is much easier to access. The printer looks kind of plain without all those cable chains.... Thank you very much for the kind words, great comments and most of all, watching!
Excellent walkthrough! Very detailed! I’m Planning on running CANBus on my Voron (which is yet to be built) and will rewatch this video when the time comes. Thanks!
Thank you for the great video! I have a small remark about powering the raspberry pi. You could remove the uart wires from the spider and simply use the two 5v wires and the gnd wire to power the pi. You can then use USB to talk to the spider. You might not be able to use the can hat in shield mode (you need to connect the wires by yourself), since I noticed that the ground at pin 6 is connected to the other ground pins.
Thanks for the detailed step by step tutorial. It was very helpful getting my Voron 2.4 upgraded to the umbilical. I couldn't find the follow up video but I will keep looking out for it.
Hello sir, I am starting wiring on my Voron 2.4 R2 ( Fysetc kit ) next week, I think I did see any of your Voron videos at least 10 times now 😄because I do enjoy to watch them. Thank you very much for your time. Have a great day.
Are you going to use canbus? If so, I would recommend you don't run the cable through ptfe tubing as I did. It's noisy as it slaps against the back wall. Thank you so much for the great comment and for watching and most of all, I wish you a great build!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I do not have plans for canbus yet, I have to make that Voron running first, after that I can do some upgrades as everybody else. My first step after building Voron and make it run is Stealthburner and after that enraged rabbit carrot feeder. I hope you will build Enraged Rabbit Carrot Feeder on your channel too.
@@AdamDeBeers I agree, getting the printer working 1st is a good plan. However, I would recommend you just go ahead and build stealthburner instead of afterburner when assembling your printer. It's the same amount of effort while providing a huge improvement in cooling. It will save you the time of building stealthburner. I've been stalled in making videos for a while, but I've got a good bunch coming in about a month's time. Thank you!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop It is too late sir, I got Afterburner built, but I did order all parts necessary to build Stealthburner. I think till I will get all parts for Stealthburner, I will use Afterburner and after I will have working Stealthburner, I will rebuild my Afterbuner into backup Stealthburner. Just for fun! This is the way. 😄
Great video! I'm currently sourcing my second Voron 2.4 build, and for this one I'm throwing in all the bells and whistles I can while still remaining eligible for a serial. :) This is a very helpful guide for the Canbus and Umbilical arrangements, and I'll be bookmarking and re-watching when all my parts show up.
Great video!!! and good timing, I've been installing my EBB36 this last couple days and I am very happy how CANbus simplifies, at least the wiring. I already removed my x chain, and changed my Z chain to 10x11. After your video I'm considering go through the redo of my endstops (hall effect) and simplify this even more! Thanks!
I am in the midst of setting up my ebb42(v1.2) on my printer, following your video. It's been a tremendous help. I'm hung up, though, on discrepancies I see between your instructions, the maz0r web site, my own experience, and the official documentation. I see differences specifically in the area of pin assignments. In the documentation, it says that the two fan outputs are pins PA1 and PA2, yet you and maz0r both use PA0 and PA1 - which also happens to be my experience. You and maz02 specify PA3 for the thermistor, yet the docs say PA0. You and maz0r say pin PB13 for the heater, yet the docs say PB1. The final difference (that I've noticed) are the SCLK, MISO, and MOSI pins for the ADXL345. You have PB10, PB2, and PB11 respectively whereas the docs specify PB13, PB14, and PB15. I have to believe what you and maz0r state because it agrees with my own experience, but it makes me wonder what other surprises these are
I cannot check tonight, but I'll have a look at the pin assignments tomorrow afternoon. I'm not sure if the EBB42 and the EBB36 have the same pin assignments. Once I have a look, I think I can give you a better answer...
There is no documentation for the EBB42 1.2. But the BTT Github states: V1.2 compared with v1.1: only the IO of hotend is changed from PA2 to PB13. So other than that, the pinouts are the same as the 1.1. So for the 2 fans, you should use: PA0 & PA1 The Thermistor should be: PA3 The heater should be PB13 for the ADXL345, you should use: PB10 (SCLK), PB11 (MOSI), PB12 (CS) & PB2 (MISO) Hopefully that helps.
Great video. I used the ebb36 with an octopus pro in canbridge mode. It was quite a challenge getting it all working reliably. A resource like this would have made it a much smoother process.
working with pros! great job! thanks for sharing! maybe this helps a little too: while working for the automotive sector I usually went with BEDIA - cables. the .35dias are great. the isolation is thinner and much more heat resistant then regular wires. due to the thinner isolation there's more copper inside which reduces the internal resistance aswell.
I had to look those up as I've never heard of those. They look like super high quality. When the ones I've used fail, that may be next. Thank you very much for the recommendation and watching!
I'm building an Enderwire (Ender 3 pro to switchwire conversion). I'm going to use a Taichi hot end with two M4 extruders for dual material (two color) printing. The extruders will be mounted external to the Stealthburner. Since my SKR mini v3 can only handle one extruder, I'm thinking of using either the EBB36 or EBB42 (which ever will fit better into the extruderless Stealthburner upper section. While I'll only need 4 wires to the tool head, I will have to add 4 additional wires so the toolhead can drive one of the external extruder motors. This will make for an interesting routing of the wires! BTW, instead of using the CAN Hat, there is also a USB to CAN solution out there. I noticed that these boards do NOT have 24v out to connect to an inductive type probe. Would have to use a Y connection at the hot end for that.
In my other canbus video I use BTT's u2c for USB to canbus. It works very well. You project is super interesting to me. I will soon start working on a project with the same hotend as you. But I plan on doing it differently. If you use Discord, reach out to me.
I just wanted to point out that I was able to continue to use my Raspberry Pi power connection through the GPIO pins - I didn't have to create a cable for the USB connector. Like you, I thought that there should be no problem with it, so I tried it. I did have a problem initially, but it was due to the fact that I dislodged the ribbon cable connecting to the KlipperScreen display; once I fixed that, it worked fine.
I'm finally to the point of my build that I'm to this video. I was curious how you are powering the pi if the can hat is using the pins that are normally used. I know you mentioned USB-C, I'm using a pi 3b+ so I'm assuming I should use the USB micro-b plug. I've used your video to install Euclid which was a great help on my other Voron and I'm very hyped to do Canbus on the new build. The software side is the hardest part for me so I appreciate the steps you take in showing the information. I don't think I would of taken on the Canbus mod without this video.
I'm glad to hear the videos are helpful. I used a Meanwell rs-25-5 powersupply mounted under the Voron and hooked up to mains ac power. The meanwell plugs into the pi. I used an old USB cable with a USB c on one side. I had to trim the non c side to connect to the meanwell. It has easily enough power for a pi 4 at full power draw which you wont actually have happen in typical usage. You might be able to connect the USB cable to the mcu pins that are for powering a pi (skipping the meanwell) and work that way as well. Thank you for the kind words and watching.
That was probably my biggest concern heading into this. I've had trouble with overheating drivers before and they often don't work that well after. I spent some time looking around and it seems most people run without one on the EBB36. There really is no space for a heat sink where I mounted it. So I have my current at 0.4 right now and all seems ok. But, I've only done small ABS prints although I done some very large PLA prints. I don't think that counts because the doors were open on the printer. I think I have found some extra small heat sinks that should fit and provide an extra level of safety. I will be testing them over the next few weeks. But so far, all is fine without them. Just keep the current low. I'm using the LDO 20mm pancake motor which is running nice and cool at 0.4.
@@ThePhilbox Good luck with the modification. I really like canbus. Any future corexy of mine will have it. It has been very reliable. If you can, get a better cable than I did. The cat5 works great, but I'm about to take it out as at times, the PTFE tube I placed it in will slap against the back wall of the printer. It is very audible when it happens. I'm actually in the middle of the change as I type...
Great video's! they've helped me a lot thanks. Next thing you need is the carbon fiber x rail. you'll have the lightest possible gantry it would be amazing. I just added my modded stls to printables to work with an amazon carbon rail.
Just getting around to setting this up, not sure if you remember we chatted on Discord as we both had same Voron 2.4 kit, so it's been far too long. Followed mazers site then cross referenced against yours hoping to find my issue, and I did finally in your comments, it was the termination jumper! I wonder how long it must have taken you to figure it out as well. Thanks again.
It's great to hear from you again! I'm glad you tracked this issue down. Funny thing, I have some experience with other bus systems and recognized that termination is pretty important. I had those installed before the tool head was reassembled... Thank you very much for the nice comments. Happy printing!
Hi your Video was invaluable in getting up and running my Ebb42 on an Afterburner. Still working on it but got the coms working and the thermostat is already returning a value, Thanks !!!. I can't get my head around how you calculated the current for your Cat5 umbilical, I checked the specs of the awg24 wires used in Cat5 Cables Max Current is rated at 0.5777 A, even doubling it we don't get near the Amperage to run heater cartridge, motor, etc, ... You are obviously right as your setup work so where am I making a mistake ? Thanks again!!!
Thank you! I used a chart like this: www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wire-gauges-d_419.html I also found some charts that presented the impact of higher temperatures which lower the current handling capacity (which I can no longer find). And to be safe, I doubled the power wires due to the heat (not ideal). Its very unlikely that i will actually ever reach the 6amp limit of the EBB36, but I believe this is safe. If it turns out I'm wrong, please tell me why for safety sake! Where are you getting the value of 0.5777A from?
Thanks a ton Im on my way to do it finally. So everything running from my current toolhead pcb connector will be unplugged there and at the board and power side under the printer and no longer needed? Seems really crazy everything can be programmed only through the 2 can wires!
The real unspoken black magic here is the re-imagined z cable chain UNDER the rear extrusion.... which solves the cable clearance issue. I was able to make mine "barely" touch and its working but this is a much better long term solution I think. Also, I def recommend doing 500K for the speed. I had consistent com errors at 250k using the separate USB canboard with ebb42.
I'm planning another much SHORTER video soon. I will cover that and some other things I have changed or am changing as I gain more experience with this. I was getting those com errors too, but a few days ago I realized I forgot to install the terminator jumper on the EBB36. The com errors stopped after that. If you have not, give it a try. I want to try for more than 500k and possibly try to reach the limit of canbus. But now, I simply want to use the printer for at least a few more weeks....If you like, feel free to reach out on discord to discuss the cable chain. I'm happy to discuss the details. So far, it's working great.
The Voron Discord channel "voron_ electronics" is currently discussing this. I just posted a link and some other comments about this there....I should update this video's description.
For the can bus signal itself, I believe you should have 26awg and it should be at least twisted. For power, it should probably be 22awg for min safety in 60c to 70c. That should handle 7 amps at those temps. You can go bigger if needed. Copper. This supports the max draw of the EBB36 of 6 amps. My guess is that you probably will not use more than 3. But you should add this all up yourself and please don't take my word as absolute here.
Have you noticed any issues with the EBB36 regarding its operating temperature? I am thinking about making a similar conversion to my Trident, but I am concerned about the chamber temperature causing the board to exceed safe operating temperatures.
Good question. So far, no issues. But I've only printed small ABS prints and I'm printing a lot of PLA the last few weeks. I should get back to some long ABS prints in the next few weeks. That said, I considered this very same issue myself. I decided that as long as the temperature inside the printer stays below 70c, things should be ok. I also worried about mounting it behind the extruder motor as it might generate a lot of heat. But I have been checking that, and the motor seems to run cool. The board should be good to about 90c and possibly a little higher. I think you will not have trouble with it. Thanks for watching!
When you wrote this in the description "When making the video, I failed to record terminating the EBB36. For reliable communications on the canbus, please make sure you terminate the EBB36 with the jumper." to do this, is it by putting a jumper on the 120R pin on EBB? Also: For the X stop, how did you plug it into the 5 pin endstop location if its just using 2 wires?
Yes, that jumper needs to be there or else you will have a very large number of communications problems. For the x endstop, I connected it to the EBB36 at endstop_pin: ^can0: PB6 and ( I believe ) the GND pin. I used a 5 pin connector, but only crimped and installed the 2 wires. I state "I believe" because I don't have access to the printer at the moment. I can check later.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop my electrical knowledge is weak but the other endstop pins (z and y) on the main board (octopus for me) go into the signal and ground pins, and not using the voltage pin. Why does the ebb use the v?
Thanks for sharing. Why did you decide to do this, what was gained? I haven't quite understood the general movement to toolhead boards and CAN. Some less wiring but seems to greatly increase overall complexity. Thoughts?
Great question. There is some added complexity, but once complete, I think it may actually be simpler. But, my reasons were: 1. I have had a few cables break near the connectors and I believe my cables might have originally been a little short with not enough slack. Also, I'm terrible at crimping... 2. I needed to do some rewiring including adding about 5 more wires, so I figured why not try this? 3. My wiring under the printer looks nothing like all the beautiful photos people post. Its a rats nest. I want to rework that as well and eliminating all these wires should make that significantly easier. Much less to rework. I now get to remove a lot of wires! 4. I have hope that eliminating all the cables will lower the weight on the X & Y axis and allow me to push higher acceleration. But currently, I'm not really seeing an increase that would make this worthwhile...yet. I have some more work to do. 5. I spend much more time than I should (I seem to be addicted to it) making changes to the printer which implies wiring changes. Now, instead of flipping the printer to get into the bottom electronics, it's right on the print head itself. Super easy. I'm not convinced this change is for everyone. But for me, it's working nicely so far. Thank you for watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop All valid points. I successfully built a Switchwire and got it running no problem thanks to videos like this, but I'm still not sure what I'm doing when it comes to firmware flashing, bootloaders, etc...I can only get it done with specific instructions and no hiccups. For me, crimping and wire management wasn't to bad and seems to be holding up. Also, you have to admit, drag chains are cool 🙂. If I ever get more adventurous, your vids on your 2.4 will definitely be a resource for me. Thanks again!
I'm not sure there is a "best", but the BTT Octopus is super popular right now. But if I were to purchase one today, I think I would give the BTT Manta a try with the integrated PI compute module with a Pi CM4. BTT Manta M4P/M8P/M5P is located here: shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=1890927&u=3422519&m=118144&urllink=&afftrack=
The guide was super useful. Thank you so much for putting that together. It's a fantastic doc! Hopefully it was clear in the video that I used your work. I also posted the link in the description.
Which ebb36 mount would work with cw2 / stealthburner? Thinking of doing the umbilical / want to get rid of drag chains and wires. Still using the LDO PCB as I am also debating switching to the 2 piece stealthburner pcb. Any help is appreciated as I feel silly for even asking.
Have a look in the description of this video. The mount I used for the ebb36 mounted to the cw2 on stealthburner is linked to there. It should work with any umbilical you choose as well. It has held up really well for me.
I did. I had it wired incorrectly. I recommend you ignore wire color and just look at what the wires are connected to on the led to figure out what to connect them to.
Yes, absolutely. IGUS makes the cables. There multiple to choose from. chainflex-productfinder.igus.tools/home?__hstc=191717877.5bb514f313339496944c3d7ad6e20815.1668795627381.1668795627381.1668795627381.1&__hssc=191717877.2.1668795627381&__hsfp=2865168973&_ga=2.200304750.1761439034.1668795627-609807361.1668795626
Yes, they do work together. Note that I have the BTT board plugged into the U2C and then to the pi. But it works great. You can get a canbus expansion board for the spider as well. Since it's canbus, that should work as well. But I have not tried it as at the time, I was not aware of the canbus expander for the Fysetc spider. But this has been working great since the video was created. I ended up switching t the SB2240 for the Stealthburner and it has been great for me as well.
At 19:14 in your video, I see a red and black wire attached to the RS485. From what I have followed on the video, the PI is powered from a separate 5V PSU (which I already have). The EBB36 or 42 is powered to the 24V PSU. Perhaps I missed where these 2 wires on the RS485 are coming from.
If I remember correctly, I did not power the pi using the USB-C connector, I used the power pins. So when I added the HAT, I simply moved the power wires to the pins on the RS485 which extend from those pins. If you are using the USB-C power port, you should not need those wires. One more thing. With the RS485, I recommend you flash to a higher speed. I would go with 500k or even better 1mb.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop, Yes, I now see what was done. It has been a while since I built my Voron and now see that I also used the power pins on the PI to the 5V. So basically just passing power thru the RS485. BTW, thanks for the quick reply.
@@LesWheelerBass, Thanks for the good question. This option worked well. A second option is to use an extra card called a U2C which plugs into the pi USB port for canbus. It works really well also. Honestly, both are good options.
I wonder if we're moving toward a more modular control future. CAN for the extruder board, and closed loop steppers utilizing sensorless homing for motion.
I think so. But, I think for the future, we need some way to better support CAN to support full 3d printing. I don't think it's possible to properly sync a motor on can with motors that are traditionally managed via a single MCU. What we have is great for what is technically the 2.5d printing of today, but we shall see. Thank you for the comment and watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop as an automotive geek, can is great but you're right. To be honest we probably need to go to something higher speed like etherCAT for high speed printers
Very little. Just a couple 100. It's not worth doing for acceleration improvement. That said, it's almost as if my printer has been stuck at a particular level for a while now. There could be something loose, but I have yet to find it. But the lack of cables is very nice. Soon I will have even less. Thank you for the question and for watching!
I used 6mm OD x 4mm ID. But I actually ran 6 wires to double up on the power due to the possibility of future changes I might implement. Also using slightly thicker gauge for the 2 power wires are really the best solution. If either of those are true, you could go thinner. Finally, at the time I could not find thinner and so the ptfe tubing is thicker and a little less flexible than I would like. If you can find 4mm ID and 5mm OD, I think it would be a little better. Thanks for the compliment!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I just picked up some 5mm ID x 6mm OD PTFE tubing on Amazon. Should give a little more clearance on the interior for larger power cables, but the same OD as yours and should also be more flexible since the wall is thinner. Worth a look!
@@atg.studio I'll need to have a look. I assumed I will rewire eventually to make it easier to make changes later. It would be nice to be able to unplug the cable from the backside of the printer. But honestly, I'm not finding any reason to do so. The cool thing with canbus is that the EBB36 supports anything I would want to change/add/upgrade on the hot end so far. There rally is no need to touch the wiring...other than replace my 4 power wires with 2 thicker ones.
I couldn't tell 100% from looking at the closeup shots of the toolhead wiring, but I assume you were able to plug the Euclid probe's cord directly into the Canbus PCB?
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Good to know, thanks! I'm currently doing my first Voron build (2.4) and am planning to do a similar setup as you with an Euclid probe and umbilical cord. I think I'll attempt the umbilical setup first, then check that everything works for the initial build, and then soon after install the Euclid probe. Does that sound reasonable to you, or do you think it's best to go the full stock route (with cable chains etc) first?
A corollary question would be: do you think it's reasonable to install the Euclid probe right away instead of the stock probe as part of the initial build, or would I be asking for trouble :)
@@jphalip As long as you are comfortable with the additional changes and calibration of Euclid that need to happen before your 1st print, it should be ok. But, euclid, canbus and the umbilical are collectively a very major change that all need to be part of the Voron instructions/process for initial setup. It's a lot. But I think it will be better than building a standard Voron, and then taking it apart to add all this. Go slow and check everything 3x. As long as you have done similar projects like this, I think you will be ok.
@@jphalip I think I have mixed recommendations here. My apologies. If you start your build with all of these changes, it will likely be harder to get help from the community as it's so different from the typical build.....there is benefit to going standard 1st to get it running....
At the moment I am using a halleffect sensor and guiding the canbus cable through the z chain. As for now it‘s working pretty good. But at some point I have got to relocate the endstops and probably going to guide the canbus cable through the reverse Bowden. I just don‘t like that the back will be missy. I have also used cat cable for power and data, pretty much the way to go. One thing all my Ebb36‘s had DuPont connectors included.
Great Video and I used it to get my EBB36, Octopus, and RPI 3b+ all going. Have you been able to use the ADXL chip on the tool head to test_ resonances? I keep gettings errors of MCU timer too close. I have bumped my CANBUS speed up to 850k and that will get further into the process but still fails.
I have used it multiple times. It has worked for me every time. But, you are not the 1st to mention this issue. Silly question, but do you have the terminator jumper on the EBB36 installed? I'm going to try and make a video on the built in ADXL as well (I have been asked to do so). Finally, thank you very much!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Yes I made sure that was there on install. I think there is noise in the system. I have tried using a RPI pico with ADXL chip as well and that errors out but at a high rate. Keep the videos coming they are helpful.
@@chrishauca6834 That should work. Sometime during the next few weeks, I will be upping the speed of my canbus as it's only 250k right now. I'll let you know if it makes a difference.
Thanks for the video! I’m upgrading my voron 2.4 with a RPI4-Canhat-spiderboard canbus adaptor and Mellow RP2040. But the RPI4 & waveshare canhat will drop the comunication😅 any clue? I’m thinking to try usb canbus bridge with the spider. Is the uart to canbus bridge comunication possible?😅
Waveshare worked great for me. Make sure the signal cables are twisted and both the canbus and waveshare are terminated. I am also using the spider. In a later (Klipperscreen) video I also started using the U2C bridge and there are instructions. It also works very well. By tomorrow, I will have a second canbus video that shows that in detail shows U2C as well. Thanks for watching!
So funny, I decided to go with Canbus as well and I'm about to build. Thanks for the information. I know you mentioned a tips and tricks but do you mind sharing the coles notes before I dive in?
I'm not yet sure what those tips are yet. There is one. Have a close look at the z-chain at the rear. A discussion kicked off in the canbus sub channel in the Voron Discord channel right after this video was published. Run a search for Kapman and everything you need will be there. In addition, there are links that you need in the description above. Thank you for watching!
Hi, thanks for video. But i didn't understand if you use can-bus interface on motherboard instead of usb-can adapter. How you get canbus_uid. i check video some times but after can bus flashin you have can-bus uid 00b537.... but on 35:16 can-bus uid in printer.cfg set to f545.... I's not clear to me and i wil be thankful for help to clarify this question
Neither. In this video, I used the Waveshare RS485 Canbus Hat. It attaches to the IO pins on the PI. I have a second video where I use the BTT U2C as well. Have a look at the video description where I have a link to the Waveshare RS485 Canbus Hat . Thank you!
Thank you for all the great + detailed videos! I finally have canbus to communicate. I still have 2 problems, both 24v inductive probe + x endstop microswitch are not working. It's hard 5v d2f microswitch, can you please advise where I can buy it? Thanks
You should be able to move the existing microswitch for the x-axis if you choose to use umbilical. If you don't choose umbilical, there is no need to do this. However, this switch is commonly available at places like this: www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Omron-Electronics/D2F-5?qs=F5EMLAvA7IBn%2FmUmNpbjIQ%3D%3D Thank you for the nice words and watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop It was a long day I had the wrong pin connected. I'll be on your Euclid probe video to hopefully finish the many upgrades. Thank you for your reply and many great videos
Very impressive and informative thankyou. Excited for the follow up video. CANBus is too new for me to install just yet. Especially considering the different octopus and spider controllers. CANBus is quite a substantial printer upgrade. This video brings me one step closer to CANBus for sure. Absolute like the fact inputshaper is on the board. This is so handy! As Klipper is installed on all these different boards. What happens when klipper is upgraded? Do you have to reflash on major upgrades. Would be difficult for me to remember all the make settings for the different boards when a major updates happens? i've only had to Flash my octopus once from a major klipper update if I remember correctly.
Well I was wondering the very same thing.....I will soon find out. But if I need to do both boards, I will be upgrading the communication speed. And absolutely, this is a major enhancement! Honestly, more involved than I was expecting. Speaking up upgrades, I hope the carrot feeder is going well.
I made the cable with cat 5 Ethernet. I pulled the outside sheathing off since it's not rated for high temps as the inner cables are. It's twisted which is required for canbus as well. However, the best method is to purchase umbilical cable intended for it at IGUS. The early parts of the video show how I made the cable.
Hopefully you'll see this. Great video, but I'm stuck at the step right before flashing klipper to the ebb36. When in ~/ klipper$ make menuconfig, under communication interface, can bus is not listed as an option. Only usb and serial are. I've followed everything else to a tee from what I can tell, and I'm using the RS485 pihat as well. I've done the check to see that the can network is working. Although I get 0 packets when I do ifconfig can0. I usually try to figure these things out myself but I am truly stumped on this one.
I'm glad to see you got it fixed. I don't remember ever seeing a "canbus" option. I used USB. That must be newer documentation. Good luck with the build!
Great video! Always enjoy your vids. I have noticed something with your config though. I am using a EBB42 and on my setup I have the extruder uart_pin set to the corresponding pin for the tmc2209 on the can board. I noticed you have not. It should be set to can0: PA15 I think. At the moment you have it still set to control the tmc2209 driver on the spider board, PD7.
Hmmm. You are right, I don't. That's actually a mistake on my part, yet it's working. I need to look into this and get back to you, but it appears it's not needed. I wonder what impact this might have?
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I think it works as you have something defined. However, who knows what power setting are actually being fed to the extruder.
@@ashleywhitehead3710 You are absolutely correct! I was wondering why the extruder motor was running hot at a current at 0.3. The extruder is running slightly warm now at 0.35 amps. Thank you for catching this! I'll update the Github file.
I’m building a Ratrig Vcore 3.1 and I’m going against the recommendations of ratrig by using a BTT manta 8p with a raspberry pi cm4 and I planned on connecting the fan hat via breakout cable and I’m wondering if everything you did can be done through Klipper or do I need a Linux distro like ubuntu to set everything up right. If I have to use another pi separate from the manta board I’d rather just send the manta back and get the octopus. Any help would be greatly appreciated
The BTT Manta should work fine. But, I have not built a RatRig...not yet anyway. The Pi can be setup to boot and run via Windows, MacOS or linux. It does not matter and the same instructions apply to all 3. Once the pi is running, all other setup and configuration of the Manta, Klipper, Canbus (if you are using it) can be done via the Pi.
@@cristianopersi7953 Be sure to use a data rate of 1 Million, the maximum of canbus (I used 250k). I'm getting ready to go back and re-flash mine to higher speeds.
You have 2 options. 1. Purchase the canbus expansion board from Fysetc. It's very low cost. Or 2. Do what I did and use a U2C board from BTT (shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=1890927&u=3422519&m=118144&urllink=&afftrack=) or a waveshare hat for the Pi. I like option 2, the U2C as it connect USB on the PI to the EBB36 (or whatever canbus controller you choose). I feel better knowing one USB port on the PI is dedicated to the Spider and the another USB port on the PI is dedicated to the EBB36. The PI CPU is much more powerful than the spider and can easily handle the load.
It's not stupid. But I'm no longer sure and I don't recommend it. It will slap against the back wall of the printer during large prints and irritate you. I just eliminated that PTFE tube. I would go with the IGUS canbus cable. It's designed for this. Another option is the BTT cable that they just started selling for canbus. If you wish to use cat 5 cable like I did, it might even be better to tie it down the filament tube.
@@grathado28 The SB2209/SB2240 have a cable option that works great (see my second canbus video). The EBB36 didn't come with a cable. But you can purchase that BTT cable separately and re-terminate with the connectors that the EBB36 or 42 would use. Unless BTT now has a specific cable for the EBB36/42.
@@grathado28 My second canbus video uses the same board you are. That cable you got is great. I have switched to that same combination, SB2240 + BTT canbus cable. It's very good. I recommend you use it. Without any ptfe tube. It's not needed.
Here is the CanHat I used: www.waveshare.com/product/raspberry-pi/hats/interface-power/rs485-can-hat.htm And here is the CanBus controller I used: biqu.equipment/products/bigtreetech-ebb-36-42-can-bus-for-connecting-klipper-expansion-device?_pos=1&_sid=eef6da74d&_ss=r&variant=39760665215074 Thank you for watching!
@@gnafin If you are just going to use the standard heat sensors that are typically used on your 3d printer, you don't need max 31865. The one on my printer now does not have the Ma 31865.
So far, no major improvement. Not what I was expecting. But, I will be systematically checking some other items on the printer to rule them out to be sure. The lack of improvement could be due to something else. I'll provide an update once I get to the bottom of this.
I believe you need an adapter to do that if you want to do anything more than installing the software on the EBB36. Instead of a USB adapter, I chose to the the Wasveshare hat.
Yes, you can. But you need a separate 24V/Ground pair along with the usb-c cable to power the board. See my reply earlier in the thread for a link to the Bigtreetech github page with info on how to do this. Basically you flash the klipper firmware for the EBB36 with USB-C communication settings instead of Canbus. I run this setup.
You sure can. And if you do, you don't need the waveshare board. You can attach the EBB36 straight to the Octopus. I have not done it myself as I don't own an octopus.
Hello Im trying to use pi zero with ebb36 and rs485 can hat with pi as secundary mcu and not working... Some Times says is not possible to get spi connection
While I've purchased several carbon fiber tubes, all of them are much less straight/flat than the standard aluminum extrusion. So unless I find good CF tubing, probably not.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thank you so much for doing that! Looks great. I've been in the process of reassembling my 2.4 after switching to Canbus using Huvud board (haven't even powered it on yet though) and I was waffling about going umbilical or not. I think you've convinced me that umbilical is the cleanest way, thanks for that!
@@theamzngq I'm not sure the way I chose is the best and there are other options for umbilicals, but so far it's working. There are cables made this for this....
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop great, thanks. I am also doing that Z chain mod to my 350mm 2.4 so I was wondering if the bottom bracket would also work mounted in the middle to avoid having to move the cables. Seems like it will work just fine
@@alexchulzhanov My apologies, but mounted to the middle of the bottom extrusion in the rear or the back extrusion on the gantry? You can really mount it wherever you like. The only limitation is fitting enough cable chain under the gantry so you can have as much z height as possible. When the gantry is at it's lowest setting, space is very tight. So those mounting blocks are really positioned to make sure the cable chain long enough can fit.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Yeah I used the entire length of one of the XY chains to make sure it would have enough Z height. With the bottom block mounted in the middle it has just enough clearance for the B motor which is mainly what I was worried about. I also use Tap so the gantry comes down a few mm further than normal and there is still just enough clearance that it’s not squishing the chain. Works really well and really cleans up the look.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop did you add any links to yours or did you also use the regular length of the XY chain? I have not had the gantry that far up to tell for sure if it’s long enough or not but I think it is
when you install these things. how in the world does it even work? is it just downloading pre made code that someone has put together for us? or am I just dumb lol?
Klipper gets installed in the EBB36, your existing MCU and the PI. Klipper was designed to run with multiple MCU's simultaneously. So the part of Klipper running on the PI manages both your existing MCU as well as the EBB36. So Klipper properly sync and pushed to work to the proper MCU. It's really slick!
I did not. I've run several resonance tests and it seems to work fine. However, others have asked me about this and some seem to be having trouble with this. I'm thinking of creating a video about it, but trying to figure out if there is enough content for a video.
In the video you are using, go to 20:20 in the video and it shows you how. Or, this should do it as well in the section called: "Update Controller Path" The Voron instructions state this: docs.vorondesign.com/build/software/configuration.html
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop personally went octopus 1.1 to ebb36 directly and sensorless homing. Not solved umbilical itself jet but I liked idea of 6mm ptfe tubing. Though for me that solution might be troublesome as my wires are silicon coated. Doubt that i will get some weight saving as before i was running IDC flat ribbon cable instead of chains. You can check it on my channel on my VL serial number request video if curious how IDC setup looks. Had identical setup on both V2 an VL before this week. This is my 3rd wiring for my v2 🤣
@@Baltojikale I don't have the octopus, but if I did, I probably would have gone direct as well. It appears the spider might have the ability as well, but there's no documentation. I'm very happy with this. One day, I'll give sensor less homing a try. Thank you!
25:40 why should you have a endstop on the carriage? There really is no point for this, since both endstops are located on the right end of the x carriage.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop It's not that bad I promise try and experiment with in the background I have it on my 2.4r2 and v1.8 no issue at all....your welcome.
![YoungBoy Never Broke Again - Catch Me [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KxwEXXFQMTY/mqdefault.jpg)
Me getting my voron nice and stable and reliable only to find some new mod to completely tear it down and start over. The serpent eats its tail.
So very true. But honestly, I would wait until you have a better excuse. In my case I had a cable break. A 3d printer that is working well should be used! Thanks for the comment and watching!
Wait until it breaks. Doesn’t make a single sense otherwise
@@Guenounovitch your right, purposely break it then upgrade.
@@oishisakana 😀
i just want to build a second voron, just to mod them and have a backup printer haha
I've just been considering this on my 2.4 and looking for videos and instructions. No need to make the video shorter. I love all the comprehensive details. Thanks!!!!!
I'm glad it's helpful! Thank you for watching!
Thank you for making this great tutorial! I have some comments for other people who might want to attempt this. Like briefly mentioned in the video it is also possible to send data to the EBB36 via USB instead of CANBUS for those that prefer that approach. If you use a USB connection no CANBUS driver board is needed and the EBB36 connects directly to the raspberry PI and klipper via USB like any "regular" controller board. This requires a a separate 24v/GND wire pair for power that connects to the CANBUS header on the EBB36. I have used this approach and so far it has been working well.
Theoretically the USB 5v is not needed if the board is powered by 24v via the CANBUS header so it is possible to make a DIY cable with a twisted USB-data pair and a separate 24v/GND pair. However, USB is more sensitive to interference than CANBUS so all sorts of problems could appear with this approach. I briefly tested it out of curiosity and it works but I can not vouch for its long term stability.
Details about the USB-setup can be found at the Bigtreetech EBB Github page:
github.com/bigtreetech/EBB
There is also an alternative way to route the cable from the tool head along the reverse bowden tube to the top frame and then along the slots in the extrusions back to the electronics bay for those that prefer that. There is a bowden tube guide arm by Demosth on TeamFDM that helps support the extra weight on the bowden tube from the cable.
www.teamfdm.com/files/file/601-bowden-tube-guide/
Thank you for making these videos! They have helped me a lot when building and upgrading my printer.
Thank you for this link on the bowden tube option! This is pretty cool and may be simpler. I have not seen this mod before. I debated USB vs Canbus prior to starting this. I also saw posts that stated they could not get this to work via the driver board. I looked at the USB driver cards and figured I might as well go full canbus which as a hat is super easy to mount. I did not know one could connect this via straight USB to the PI! I also looked at connecting the EBB36 straight to the Spider MCU, but Fysetc had no documentation about how it's used whatsoever. But I'm really happy with how this turned out. It's working well and for someone that seems to be flipping the printer over all the time for modifications, a good chunk of the printer's electronics now is much easier to access. The printer looks kind of plain without all those cable chains....
Thank you very much for the kind words, great comments and most of all, watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Yes, I agree. Canbus is probably the cleaner approach if you don't mind the few extra steps to configure klipper.
Excellent walkthrough! Very detailed! I’m
Planning on running CANBus on my Voron (which is yet to be built) and will rewatch this video when the time comes. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful! There is a followup in case you decide to go with the SB2240 or SB2209 along with the U2C for canbus. Thank you!
Thank you for the great video! I have a small remark about powering the raspberry pi. You could remove the uart wires from the spider and simply use the two 5v wires and the gnd wire to power the pi. You can then use USB to talk to the spider. You might not be able to use the can hat in shield mode (you need to connect the wires by yourself), since I noticed that the ground at pin 6 is connected to the other ground pins.
Good tip! Thank you for the information!
Oh my god the ambient sound and your voice is so calming 🙂
Thank you!
Thanks for the detailed step by step tutorial. It was very helpful getting my Voron 2.4 upgraded to the umbilical. I couldn't find the follow up video but I will keep looking out for it.
I have not published one yet. I have some thoughts, but as of yet, no time for that next video. Thank you for the "Thanks" and thank you for watching!
Hello sir, I am starting wiring on my Voron 2.4 R2 ( Fysetc kit ) next week, I think I did see any of your Voron videos at least 10 times now 😄because I do enjoy to watch them. Thank you very much for your time. Have a great day.
Are you going to use canbus? If so, I would recommend you don't run the cable through ptfe tubing as I did. It's noisy as it slaps against the back wall.
Thank you so much for the great comment and for watching and most of all, I wish you a great build!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I do not have plans for canbus yet, I have to make that Voron running first, after that I can do some upgrades as everybody else. My first step after building Voron and make it run is Stealthburner and after that enraged rabbit carrot feeder. I hope you will build Enraged Rabbit Carrot Feeder on your channel too.
@@AdamDeBeers I agree, getting the printer working 1st is a good plan. However, I would recommend you just go ahead and build stealthburner instead of afterburner when assembling your printer. It's the same amount of effort while providing a huge improvement in cooling. It will save you the time of building stealthburner. I've been stalled in making videos for a while, but I've got a good bunch coming in about a month's time. Thank you!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop It is too late sir, I got Afterburner built, but I did order all parts necessary to build Stealthburner. I think till I will get all parts for Stealthburner, I will use Afterburner and after I will have working Stealthburner, I will rebuild my Afterbuner into backup Stealthburner. Just for fun! This is the way. 😄
@@AdamDeBeers This is the way :)
Great video! I'm currently sourcing my second Voron 2.4 build, and for this one I'm throwing in all the bells and whistles I can while still remaining eligible for a serial. :)
This is a very helpful guide for the Canbus and Umbilical arrangements, and I'll be bookmarking and re-watching when all my parts show up.
Thank you for the kind words and may you have a great build!
This is great! Thanks for sharing your build changes again. The Z chain relocation is pretty sweet.
I just added a link to that mod in the description. Thank you for watching!
Great video!!! and good timing, I've been installing my EBB36 this last couple days and I am very happy how CANbus simplifies, at least the wiring. I already removed my x chain, and changed my Z chain to 10x11. After your video I'm considering go through the redo of my endstops (hall effect) and simplify this even more! Thanks!
Thank you for the feedback! I posted a link in the description for the z-chain relocation in case you don't have clearance.
I am in the midst of setting up my ebb42(v1.2) on my printer, following your video. It's been a tremendous help. I'm hung up, though, on discrepancies I see between your instructions, the maz0r web site, my own experience, and the official documentation. I see differences specifically in the area of pin assignments. In the documentation, it says that the two fan outputs are pins PA1 and PA2, yet you and maz0r both use PA0 and PA1 - which also happens to be my experience. You and maz02 specify PA3 for the thermistor, yet the docs say PA0. You and maz0r say pin PB13 for the heater, yet the docs say PB1. The final difference (that I've noticed) are the SCLK, MISO, and MOSI pins for the ADXL345. You have PB10, PB2, and PB11 respectively whereas the docs specify PB13, PB14, and PB15. I have to believe what you and maz0r state because it agrees with my own experience, but it makes me wonder what other surprises these are
I cannot check tonight, but I'll have a look at the pin assignments tomorrow afternoon. I'm not sure if the EBB42 and the EBB36 have the same pin assignments. Once I have a look, I think I can give you a better answer...
There is no documentation for the EBB42 1.2. But the BTT Github states: V1.2 compared with v1.1: only the IO of hotend is changed from PA2 to PB13. So other than that, the pinouts are the same as the 1.1.
So for the 2 fans, you should use: PA0 & PA1
The Thermistor should be: PA3
The heater should be PB13
for the ADXL345, you should use: PB10 (SCLK), PB11 (MOSI), PB12 (CS) & PB2 (MISO)
Hopefully that helps.
Yes. I have it now. It's just surprising the pin changes from 1.0 to 1.1/1.2.
Great video. I used the ebb36 with an octopus pro in canbridge mode. It was quite a challenge getting it all working reliably. A resource like this would have made it a much smoother process.
Thank you very much for that! I'm glad it's working now.
working with pros! great job! thanks for sharing!
maybe this helps a little too: while working for the automotive sector I usually went with BEDIA - cables. the .35dias are great. the isolation is thinner and much more heat resistant then regular wires. due to the thinner isolation there's more copper inside which reduces the internal resistance aswell.
I had to look those up as I've never heard of those. They look like super high quality. When the ones I've used fail, that may be next. Thank you very much for the recommendation and watching!
(TERMINATOR) EXCELLENT.. really great. I eventually want to do a canbus mod to one of my machines when it comes time.
It's nice not having to run all those wires....Thank you for watching!
I'm building an Enderwire (Ender 3 pro to switchwire conversion). I'm going to use a Taichi hot end with two M4 extruders for dual material (two color) printing. The extruders will be mounted external to the Stealthburner. Since my SKR mini v3 can only handle one extruder, I'm thinking of using either the EBB36 or EBB42 (which ever will fit better into the extruderless Stealthburner upper section. While I'll only need 4 wires to the tool head, I will have to add 4 additional wires so the toolhead can drive one of the external extruder motors. This will make for an interesting routing of the wires! BTW, instead of using the CAN Hat, there is also a USB to CAN solution out there.
I noticed that these boards do NOT have 24v out to connect to an inductive type probe. Would have to use a Y connection at the hot end for that.
In my other canbus video I use BTT's u2c for USB to canbus. It works very well. You project is super interesting to me. I will soon start working on a project with the same hotend as you. But I plan on doing it differently. If you use Discord, reach out to me.
I just wanted to point out that I was able to continue to use my Raspberry Pi power connection through the GPIO pins - I didn't have to create a cable for the USB connector. Like you, I thought that there should be no problem with it, so I tried it. I did have a problem initially, but it was due to the fact that I dislodged the ribbon cable connecting to the KlipperScreen display; once I fixed that, it worked fine.
Which MCU are you using? I have an original 1.0 Spider. Wondering if you have the same.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I have a BTT Octopus - not sure the version, but purchased in the past 3 or 4 months
@@jeffbernardis420 I think your MCU might be capable of more power output to the Pi than mine. But no matter, I'm happy yours is working!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop my Pi power is coming from the 5v PSU, not the mcu.
@@jeffbernardis420 Ok, I misunderstood. Thank you!
Thanks for sharing. A pleasure to watch! 👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks for the kind words and watching!
I'm finally to the point of my build that I'm to this video. I was curious how you are powering the pi if the can hat is using the pins that are normally used. I know you mentioned USB-C, I'm using a pi 3b+ so I'm assuming I should use the USB micro-b plug.
I've used your video to install Euclid which was a great help on my other Voron and I'm very hyped to do Canbus on the new build. The software side is the hardest part for me so I appreciate the steps you take in showing the information. I don't think I would of taken on the Canbus mod without this video.
I'm glad to hear the videos are helpful. I used a Meanwell rs-25-5 powersupply mounted under the Voron and hooked up to mains ac power. The meanwell plugs into the pi. I used an old USB cable with a USB c on one side. I had to trim the non c side to connect to the meanwell. It has easily enough power for a pi 4 at full power draw which you wont actually have happen in typical usage. You might be able to connect the USB cable to the mcu pins that are for powering a pi (skipping the meanwell) and work that way as well. Thank you for the kind words and watching.
What is your experience about the heating of the driver on the board? Especially in this case when it is used in an enclosed chamber? Any issues?
That was probably my biggest concern heading into this. I've had trouble with overheating drivers before and they often don't work that well after. I spent some time looking around and it seems most people run without one on the EBB36. There really is no space for a heat sink where I mounted it. So I have my current at 0.4 right now and all seems ok. But, I've only done small ABS prints although I done some very large PLA prints. I don't think that counts because the doors were open on the printer. I think I have found some extra small heat sinks that should fit and provide an extra level of safety. I will be testing them over the next few weeks. But so far, all is fine without them. Just keep the current low. I'm using the LDO 20mm pancake motor which is running nice and cool at 0.4.
The X-carriage has a little passthrough for the wiring of the x-end stop. Right there!
Yes it does. And I have been using it for the last few months. Thanks for the comments and watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop thanks for making the video! About to go canbus with umbilical. Got all the stuff, just waiting for the right day now.
@@ThePhilbox Good luck with the modification. I really like canbus. Any future corexy of mine will have it. It has been very reliable. If you can, get a better cable than I did. The cat5 works great, but I'm about to take it out as at times, the PTFE tube I placed it in will slap against the back wall of the printer. It is very audible when it happens. I'm actually in the middle of the change as I type...
Thanks a lot for the great video! So much mystery behind can.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you for watching!
Am currently building my Voron 2.4 and instead of the cable chains I’m going straight Can Bus! Really looking foward to your next video :)
Good luck with the build and thank you for watching!
Thanks for this great video. Works like a Charm. 👍😄
Great to hear! Thank you!
Great video's! they've helped me a lot thanks. Next thing you need is the carbon fiber x rail. you'll have the lightest possible gantry it would be amazing. I just added my modded stls to printables to work with an amazon carbon rail.
Thanks for the tip! Thank you for watching!
Just getting around to setting this up, not sure if you remember we chatted on Discord as we both had same Voron 2.4 kit, so it's been far too long. Followed mazers site then cross referenced against yours hoping to find my issue, and I did finally in your comments, it was the termination jumper! I wonder how long it must have taken you to figure it out as well. Thanks again.
It's great to hear from you again! I'm glad you tracked this issue down. Funny thing, I have some experience with other bus systems and recognized that termination is pretty important. I had those installed before the tool head was reassembled...
Thank you very much for the nice comments. Happy printing!
Great Stuff! Full details! That's valuable!
Glad you think so!
Hi your Video was invaluable in getting up and running my Ebb42 on an Afterburner. Still working on it but got the coms working and the thermostat is already returning a value, Thanks !!!. I can't get my head around how you calculated the current for your Cat5 umbilical, I checked the specs of the awg24 wires used in Cat5 Cables Max Current is rated at 0.5777 A, even doubling it we don't get near the Amperage to run heater cartridge, motor, etc, ... You are obviously right as your setup work so where am I making a mistake ? Thanks again!!!
Thank you! I used a chart like this: www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wire-gauges-d_419.html
I also found some charts that presented the impact of higher temperatures which lower the current handling capacity (which I can no longer find). And to be safe, I doubled the power wires due to the heat (not ideal). Its very unlikely that i will actually ever reach the 6amp limit of the EBB36, but I believe this is safe. If it turns out I'm wrong, please tell me why for safety sake! Where are you getting the value of 0.5777A from?
Thanks for the good explanation. it is really perfectly well explained :-)
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Octopus pro v1.0 with Chip H723 has been stop making. Last product was also sold out. No only we can get EZ MODEL one
In this case, the EBB36 is not connected to an Octopus at all. It's connected to the Pi. So your MCU should not matter.
This is great! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for the nice comments!
Great Video, is the Wavemaster RS485 really compatible throug the Rasperry PI 4? Cause it's not on the compatibility list...
I looked up wavemaster, I'm not sure I'm looking at the right device. I have used the waveshare canbus 485 hat and it worked well on the Pi4.
Looks good! Now remove even more wiring with sensorless x and y homing!
Others have stated this as well. I'm somewhat scared of that at the moment. But it sounds like something I need to try. Thank you!
Thanks a ton Im on my way to do it finally. So everything running from my current toolhead pcb connector will be unplugged there and at the board and power side under the printer and no longer needed? Seems really crazy everything can be programmed only through the 2 can wires!
Yes, just the 4 wires will be needed. 2 for power and two for communication. It works well. Thank for watching!
The real unspoken black magic here is the re-imagined z cable chain UNDER the rear extrusion.... which solves the cable clearance issue. I was able to make mine "barely" touch and its working but this is a much better long term solution I think. Also, I def recommend doing 500K for the speed. I had consistent com errors at 250k using the separate USB canboard with ebb42.
I'm planning another much SHORTER video soon. I will cover that and some other things I have changed or am changing as I gain more experience with this. I was getting those com errors too, but a few days ago I realized I forgot to install the terminator jumper on the EBB36. The com errors stopped after that. If you have not, give it a try. I want to try for more than 500k and possibly try to reach the limit of canbus. But now, I simply want to use the printer for at least a few more weeks....If you like, feel free to reach out on discord to discuss the cable chain. I'm happy to discuss the details. So far, it's working great.
The Voron Discord channel "voron_ electronics" is currently discussing this. I just posted a link and some other comments about this there....I should update this video's description.
I just added the link to the z-chain relocation in the video description.
Thank you for the video! What AWG and wire type would you recommend for this setup?
For the can bus signal itself, I believe you should have 26awg and it should be at least twisted. For power, it should probably be 22awg for min safety in 60c to 70c. That should handle 7 amps at those temps. You can go bigger if needed. Copper. This supports the max draw of the EBB36 of 6 amps. My guess is that you probably will not use more than 3. But you should add this all up yourself and please don't take my word as absolute here.
Have you noticed any issues with the EBB36 regarding its operating temperature? I am thinking about making a similar conversion to my Trident, but I am concerned about the chamber temperature causing the board to exceed safe operating temperatures.
Good question. So far, no issues. But I've only printed small ABS prints and I'm printing a lot of PLA the last few weeks. I should get back to some long ABS prints in the next few weeks. That said, I considered this very same issue myself. I decided that as long as the temperature inside the printer stays below 70c, things should be ok. I also worried about mounting it behind the extruder motor as it might generate a lot of heat. But I have been checking that, and the motor seems to run cool. The board should be good to about 90c and possibly a little higher. I think you will not have trouble with it. Thanks for watching!
When you wrote this in the description "When making the video, I failed to record terminating the EBB36. For reliable communications on the canbus, please make sure you terminate the EBB36 with the jumper."
to do this, is it by putting a jumper on the 120R pin on EBB?
Also: For the X stop, how did you plug it into the 5 pin endstop location if its just using 2 wires?
Yes, that jumper needs to be there or else you will have a very large number of communications problems.
For the x endstop, I connected it to the EBB36 at endstop_pin: ^can0: PB6 and ( I believe ) the GND pin. I used a 5 pin connector, but only crimped and installed the 2 wires. I state "I believe" because I don't have access to the printer at the moment. I can check later.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshopno worries on checking that, I just was curious and will try that out. Thanks for the response!
Actually, (I still have not been able to look at it), but not GND, it should be 5+. Yikes!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop my electrical knowledge is weak but the other endstop pins (z and y) on the main board (octopus for me) go into the signal and ground pins, and not using the voltage pin. Why does the ebb use the v?
Follow the pattern of the others, that should work. My apologies, I should not be giving advice without actually checking the printer or my notes.
Thanks for sharing. Why did you decide to do this, what was gained? I haven't quite understood the general movement to toolhead boards and CAN. Some less wiring but seems to greatly increase overall complexity. Thoughts?
Great question. There is some added complexity, but once complete, I think it may actually be simpler. But, my reasons were:
1. I have had a few cables break near the connectors and I believe my cables might have originally been a little short with not enough slack. Also, I'm terrible at crimping...
2. I needed to do some rewiring including adding about 5 more wires, so I figured why not try this?
3. My wiring under the printer looks nothing like all the beautiful photos people post. Its a rats nest. I want to rework that as well and eliminating all these wires should make that significantly easier. Much less to rework. I now get to remove a lot of wires!
4. I have hope that eliminating all the cables will lower the weight on the X & Y axis and allow me to push higher acceleration. But currently, I'm not really seeing an increase that would make this worthwhile...yet. I have some more work to do.
5. I spend much more time than I should (I seem to be addicted to it) making changes to the printer which implies wiring changes. Now, instead of flipping the printer to get into the bottom electronics, it's right on the print head itself. Super easy.
I'm not convinced this change is for everyone. But for me, it's working nicely so far.
Thank you for watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop All valid points. I successfully built a Switchwire and got it running no problem thanks to videos like this, but I'm still not sure what I'm doing when it comes to firmware flashing, bootloaders, etc...I can only get it done with specific instructions and no hiccups. For me, crimping and wire management wasn't to bad and seems to be holding up. Also, you have to admit, drag chains are cool 🙂. If I ever get more adventurous, your vids on your 2.4 will definitely be a resource for me. Thanks again!
@@jimlee4649 They are cool :) My printer is looking a little bland (clean?) at the moment.
Hey there which is best motherboard you can recommend me. No limit of money to buy.
I'm not sure there is a "best", but the BTT Octopus is super popular right now. But if I were to purchase one today, I think I would give the BTT Manta a try with the integrated PI compute module with a Pi CM4. BTT Manta M4P/M8P/M5P is located here: shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=1890927&u=3422519&m=118144&urllink=&afftrack=
Glad the guide was useful, if I wasn't dooming my V2 (eventually) I'd be stealing that Z chan mod :hehe:
The guide was super useful. Thank you so much for putting that together. It's a fantastic doc! Hopefully it was clear in the video that I used your work. I also posted the link in the description.
Which ebb36 mount would work with cw2 / stealthburner? Thinking of doing the umbilical / want to get rid of drag chains and wires. Still using the LDO PCB as I am also debating switching to the 2 piece stealthburner pcb. Any help is appreciated as I feel silly for even asking.
Have a look in the description of this video. The mount I used for the ebb36 mounted to the cw2 on stealthburner is linked to there. It should work with any umbilical you choose as well. It has held up really well for me.
thanks for another great video! where did you connect euclid probe?
I connected it to pins PB9 and gnd. In the printer.cfg file in my github listed above, it's pin: can0:PB9. Thanks for watching!
37:13 Did you ever figure out the rgb issue with the can board? I can’t get mine to work either 😢
I did. I had it wired incorrectly. I recommend you ignore wire color and just look at what the wires are connected to on the led to figure out what to connect them to.
Great video, thank you for it. Can you point me towards the umbilical cable you were leaning towards instead of the ethernet cable?
Yes, absolutely. IGUS makes the cables. There multiple to choose from.
chainflex-productfinder.igus.tools/home?__hstc=191717877.5bb514f313339496944c3d7ad6e20815.1668795627381.1668795627381.1668795627381.1&__hssc=191717877.2.1668795627381&__hsfp=2865168973&_ga=2.200304750.1761439034.1668795627-609807361.1668795626
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thank you!
So, the BTT EBB boards work with fystec spider? I was looking for that information, I was close to buying a big tree tech board.
Yes, they do work together. Note that I have the BTT board plugged into the U2C and then to the pi. But it works great. You can get a canbus expansion board for the spider as well. Since it's canbus, that should work as well. But I have not tried it as at the time, I was not aware of the canbus expander for the Fysetc spider. But this has been working great since the video was created. I ended up switching t the SB2240 for the Stealthburner and it has been great for me as well.
At 19:14 in your video, I see a red and black wire attached to the RS485. From what I have followed on the video, the PI is powered from a separate 5V PSU (which I already have). The EBB36 or 42 is powered to the 24V PSU. Perhaps I missed where these 2 wires on the RS485 are coming from.
If I remember correctly, I did not power the pi using the USB-C connector, I used the power pins. So when I added the HAT, I simply moved the power wires to the pins on the RS485 which extend from those pins. If you are using the USB-C power port, you should not need those wires. One more thing. With the RS485, I recommend you flash to a higher speed. I would go with 500k or even better 1mb.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop, Yes, I now see what was done. It has been a while since I built my Voron and now see that I also used the power pins on the PI to the 5V. So basically just passing power thru the RS485. BTW, thanks for the quick reply.
@@LesWheelerBass, Thanks for the good question. This option worked well. A second option is to use an extra card called a U2C which plugs into the pi USB port for canbus. It works really well also. Honestly, both are good options.
I wonder if we're moving toward a more modular control future. CAN for the extruder board, and closed loop steppers utilizing sensorless homing for motion.
I think so. But, I think for the future, we need some way to better support CAN to support full 3d printing. I don't think it's possible to properly sync a motor on can with motors that are traditionally managed via a single MCU. What we have is great for what is technically the 2.5d printing of today, but we shall see. Thank you for the comment and watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop as an automotive geek, can is great but you're right. To be honest we probably need to go to something higher speed like etherCAT for high speed printers
Did you see much improvement in input shaper max accel. taking of all the wiring and chains?
Very little. Just a couple 100. It's not worth doing for acceleration improvement. That said, it's almost as if my printer has been stuck at a particular level for a while now. There could be something loose, but I have yet to find it. But the lack of cables is very nice. Soon I will have even less.
Thank you for the question and for watching!
Awesome as always, easily the best Voron 2.4 channel. I love the teflon tubing but I didn't catch the exact ID & OD just 6mm?
I used 6mm OD x 4mm ID. But I actually ran 6 wires to double up on the power due to the possibility of future changes I might implement. Also using slightly thicker gauge for the 2 power wires are really the best solution. If either of those are true, you could go thinner. Finally, at the time I could not find thinner and so the ptfe tubing is thicker and a little less flexible than I would like. If you can find 4mm ID and 5mm OD, I think it would be a little better. Thanks for the compliment!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I just picked up some 5mm ID x 6mm OD PTFE tubing on Amazon. Should give a little more clearance on the interior for larger power cables, but the same OD as yours and should also be more flexible since the wall is thinner. Worth a look!
@@atg.studio I'll need to have a look. I assumed I will rewire eventually to make it easier to make changes later. It would be nice to be able to unplug the cable from the backside of the printer. But honestly, I'm not finding any reason to do so. The cool thing with canbus is that the EBB36 supports anything I would want to change/add/upgrade on the hot end so far. There rally is no need to touch the wiring...other than replace my 4 power wires with 2 thicker ones.
New vid.. lets goooo
It's a long one.....
I couldn't tell 100% from looking at the closeup shots of the toolhead wiring, but I assume you were able to plug the Euclid probe's cord directly into the Canbus PCB?
Yes, that is correct. And it works perfectly. And there is still a little more space. Thank you!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Good to know, thanks! I'm currently doing my first Voron build (2.4) and am planning to do a similar setup as you with an Euclid probe and umbilical cord. I think I'll attempt the umbilical setup first, then check that everything works for the initial build, and then soon after install the Euclid probe. Does that sound reasonable to you, or do you think it's best to go the full stock route (with cable chains etc) first?
A corollary question would be: do you think it's reasonable to install the Euclid probe right away instead of the stock probe as part of the initial build, or would I be asking for trouble :)
@@jphalip As long as you are comfortable with the additional changes and calibration of Euclid that need to happen before your 1st print, it should be ok. But, euclid, canbus and the umbilical are collectively a very major change that all need to be part of the Voron instructions/process for initial setup. It's a lot. But I think it will be better than building a standard Voron, and then taking it apart to add all this. Go slow and check everything 3x. As long as you have done similar projects like this, I think you will be ok.
@@jphalip I think I have mixed recommendations here. My apologies. If you start your build with all of these changes, it will likely be harder to get help from the community as it's so different from the typical build.....there is benefit to going standard 1st to get it running....
At the moment I am using a halleffect sensor and guiding the canbus cable through the z chain.
As for now it‘s working pretty good.
But at some point I have got to relocate the endstops and probably going to guide the canbus cable through the reverse Bowden. I just don‘t like that the back will be missy.
I have also used cat cable for power and data, pretty much the way to go.
One thing all my Ebb36‘s had DuPont connectors included.
The connector situation is interesting. I was lucky I had some on hand.
Great Video and I used it to get my EBB36, Octopus, and RPI 3b+ all going. Have you been able to use the ADXL chip on the tool head to test_ resonances? I keep gettings errors of MCU timer too close. I have bumped my CANBUS speed up to 850k and that will get further into the process but still fails.
I have used it multiple times. It has worked for me every time. But, you are not the 1st to mention this issue. Silly question, but do you have the terminator jumper on the EBB36 installed? I'm going to try and make a video on the built in ADXL as well (I have been asked to do so). Finally, thank you very much!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Yes I made sure that was there on install. I think there is noise in the system. I have tried using a RPI pico with ADXL chip as well and that errors out but at a high rate. Keep the videos coming they are helpful.
@@chrishauca6834 And the signal wires are twisted?
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop yes used cat 6e pair for the CAN signal.
@@chrishauca6834 That should work. Sometime during the next few weeks, I will be upping the speed of my canbus as it's only 250k right now. I'll let you know if it makes a difference.
Holy heck I have great vision and couldn't read that yellow
Glad to hear it's not just me! Starting to wonder if I'm color blind!
Thanks for the video! I’m upgrading my voron 2.4 with a RPI4-Canhat-spiderboard canbus adaptor and Mellow RP2040. But the RPI4 & waveshare canhat will drop the comunication😅 any clue? I’m thinking to try usb canbus bridge with the spider. Is the uart to canbus bridge comunication possible?😅
Waveshare worked great for me. Make sure the signal cables are twisted and both the canbus and waveshare are terminated.
I am also using the spider.
In a later (Klipperscreen) video I also started using the U2C bridge and there are instructions. It also works very well. By tomorrow, I will have a second canbus video that shows that in detail shows U2C as well.
Thanks for watching!
So funny, I decided to go with Canbus as well and I'm about to build. Thanks for the information. I know you mentioned a tips and tricks but do you mind sharing the coles notes before I dive in?
I'm not yet sure what those tips are yet. There is one. Have a close look at the z-chain at the rear. A discussion kicked off in the canbus sub channel in the Voron Discord channel right after this video was published. Run a search for Kapman and everything you need will be there. In addition, there are links that you need in the description above. Thank you for watching!
Hi, thanks for video. But i didn't understand if you use can-bus interface on motherboard instead of usb-can adapter. How you get canbus_uid. i check video some times but after can bus flashin you have can-bus uid 00b537.... but on 35:16 can-bus uid in printer.cfg set to f545.... I's not clear to me and i wil be thankful for help to clarify this question
Neither. In this video, I used the Waveshare RS485 Canbus Hat. It attaches to the IO pins on the PI. I have a second video where I use the BTT U2C as well. Have a look at the video description where I have a link to the Waveshare RS485 Canbus Hat . Thank you!
Thank you for all the great + detailed videos! I finally have canbus to communicate. I still have 2 problems, both 24v inductive probe + x endstop microswitch are not working. It's hard 5v d2f microswitch, can you please advise where I can buy it? Thanks
You should be able to move the existing microswitch for the x-axis if you choose to use umbilical. If you don't choose umbilical, there is no need to do this. However, this switch is commonly available at places like this: www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Omron-Electronics/D2F-5?qs=F5EMLAvA7IBn%2FmUmNpbjIQ%3D%3D
Thank you for the nice words and watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop It was a long day I had the wrong pin connected. I'll be on your Euclid probe video to hopefully finish the many upgrades. Thank you for your reply and many great videos
Can you do a vid on running imput shaper with the ebb36?
Yes, I think I can. Give me a week or so....
Wait is this in addition to a Raspberry Pi or a replacement to it?
This is in addition to the pi. Thanks for watching!
Very impressive and informative thankyou. Excited for the follow up video.
CANBus is too new for me to install just yet. Especially considering the different octopus and spider controllers.
CANBus is quite a substantial printer upgrade. This video brings me one step closer to CANBus for sure.
Absolute like the fact inputshaper is on the board. This is so handy!
As Klipper is installed on all these different boards. What happens when klipper is upgraded? Do you have to reflash on major upgrades. Would be difficult for me to remember all the make settings for the different boards when a major updates happens? i've only had to Flash my octopus once from a major klipper update if I remember correctly.
Well I was wondering the very same thing.....I will soon find out. But if I need to do both boards, I will be upgrading the communication speed. And absolutely, this is a major enhancement! Honestly, more involved than I was expecting. Speaking up upgrades, I hope the carrot feeder is going well.
Thank you
You're welcome
where you get this canbus cables?
I made the cable with cat 5 Ethernet. I pulled the outside sheathing off since it's not rated for high temps as the inner cables are. It's twisted which is required for canbus as well. However, the best method is to purchase umbilical cable intended for it at IGUS. The early parts of the video show how I made the cable.
Hopefully you'll see this. Great video, but I'm stuck at the step right before flashing klipper to the ebb36. When in ~/ klipper$ make menuconfig, under communication interface, can bus is not listed as an option. Only usb and serial are. I've followed everything else to a tee from what I can tell, and I'm using the RS485 pihat as well. I've done the check to see that the can network is working. Although I get 0 packets when I do ifconfig can0. I usually try to figure these things out myself but I am truly stumped on this one.
Well apparently klipper was far enough out of date that all I had to do was update it and problem solved.
I'm glad to see you got it fixed. I don't remember ever seeing a "canbus" option. I used USB. That must be newer documentation. Good luck with the build!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I should've specified, I was referring to 21:50 in your video.
Short comment: THANKS !!! ;-)
Great comment!
Great video! Always enjoy your vids.
I have noticed something with your config though. I am using a EBB42 and on my setup I have the extruder uart_pin set to the corresponding pin for the tmc2209 on the can board. I noticed you have not. It should be set to can0: PA15 I think. At the moment you have it still set to control the tmc2209 driver on the spider board, PD7.
Hmmm. You are right, I don't. That's actually a mistake on my part, yet it's working. I need to look into this and get back to you, but it appears it's not needed. I wonder what impact this might have?
I just fixed it and rebooted. Running a test print now.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I think it works as you have something defined. However, who knows what power setting are actually being fed to the extruder.
@@ashleywhitehead3710 You are absolutely correct! I was wondering why the extruder motor was running hot at a current at 0.3. The extruder is running slightly warm now at 0.35 amps. Thank you for catching this! I'll update the Github file.
@@ashleywhitehead3710 I just updated the printer.cfg in Github. Thank you again!
I’m building a Ratrig Vcore 3.1 and I’m going against the recommendations of ratrig by using a BTT manta 8p with a raspberry pi cm4 and I planned on connecting the fan hat via breakout cable and I’m wondering if everything you did can be done through Klipper or do I need a Linux distro like ubuntu to set everything up right. If I have to use another pi separate from the manta board I’d rather just send the manta back and get the octopus. Any help would be greatly appreciated
The BTT Manta should work fine. But, I have not built a RatRig...not yet anyway. The Pi can be setup to boot and run via Windows, MacOS or linux. It does not matter and the same instructions apply to all 3. Once the pi is running, all other setup and configuration of the Manta, Klipper, Canbus (if you are using it) can be done via the Pi.
pretty neat thank you
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop yes I will mod my V2.4 soon.
@@cristianopersi7953 Be sure to use a data rate of 1 Million, the maximum of canbus (I used 250k). I'm getting ready to go back and re-flash mine to higher speeds.
Hello. Does Canbus work whith Spider 2.2 bord?
You have 2 options. 1. Purchase the canbus expansion board from Fysetc. It's very low cost. Or 2. Do what I did and use a U2C board from BTT (shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=1890927&u=3422519&m=118144&urllink=&afftrack=) or a waveshare hat for the Pi. I like option 2, the U2C as it connect USB on the PI to the EBB36 (or whatever canbus controller you choose). I feel better knowing one USB port on the PI is dedicated to the Spider and the another USB port on the PI is dedicated to the EBB36. The PI CPU is much more powerful than the spider and can easily handle the load.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Which model U2C and EBB36 does You use?
i did not see it in the picture. do the LED's still work in the stealthburner?
They do. The led controller is right on the ebb36.
I got a stupid question what PTF tube did you use?
It's not stupid. But I'm no longer sure and I don't recommend it. It will slap against the back wall of the printer during large prints and irritate you. I just eliminated that PTFE tube. I would go with the IGUS canbus cable. It's designed for this. Another option is the BTT cable that they just started selling for canbus. If you wish to use cat 5 cable like I did, it might even be better to tie it down the filament tube.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop doesn't the canvas come with the cable though? Isn't that a good cable?
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop oh wait you're using a different canvas I was using the one that was built for the stealth burner lol I'm such a ditz
@@grathado28 The SB2209/SB2240 have a cable option that works great (see my second canbus video). The EBB36 didn't come with a cable. But you can purchase that BTT cable separately and re-terminate with the connectors that the EBB36 or 42 would use. Unless BTT now has a specific cable for the EBB36/42.
@@grathado28 My second canbus video uses the same board you are. That cable you got is great. I have switched to that same combination, SB2240 + BTT canbus cable. It's very good. I recommend you use it. Without any ptfe tube. It's not needed.
do you have a list of the boards you user? where did you get them from??
Here is the CanHat I used:
www.waveshare.com/product/raspberry-pi/hats/interface-power/rs485-can-hat.htm
And here is the CanBus controller I used: biqu.equipment/products/bigtreetech-ebb-36-42-can-bus-for-connecting-klipper-expansion-device?_pos=1&_sid=eef6da74d&_ss=r&variant=39760665215074
Thank you for watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop thank you.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop sorry, is that with the max 31865
@@gnafin If you are just going to use the standard heat sensors that are typically used on your 3d printer, you don't need max 31865. The one on my printer now does not have the Ma 31865.
How much does it help with the input sharper tuning? does it give you even more accel?
So far, no major improvement. Not what I was expecting. But, I will be systematically checking some other items on the printer to rule them out to be sure. The lack of improvement could be due to something else. I'll provide an update once I get to the bottom of this.
can you connect usb-c from EBB36 directly to PI?
I believe you need an adapter to do that if you want to do anything more than installing the software on the EBB36. Instead of a USB adapter, I chose to the the Wasveshare hat.
Yes, you can. But you need a separate 24V/Ground pair along with the usb-c cable to power the board. See my reply earlier in the thread for a link to the Bigtreetech github page with info on how to do this. Basically you flash the klipper firmware for the EBB36 with USB-C communication settings instead of Canbus. I run this setup.
since the term is being used I wonder if this the same canbus used by cars or if its just a term shared by two totally different use cases.
This is the same canbus used in cars. The hardware is different, but the protocol and bus are the same.
is possible to use canbus with the octopus board?
You sure can. And if you do, you don't need the waveshare board. You can attach the EBB36 straight to the Octopus. I have not done it myself as I don't own an octopus.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop where can I find some documentation about it?
@@martincastellano89 Klipper has documentation about it: www.klipper3d.org/CANBUS.html#usb-to-can-bus-bridge-mode
did you ever try the input shaping with this card?
I have. Multiple times. 4 to be exact. It seems to work. Are you having an issue with it?
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop i got it working. i just forgot a few settings.
Hello Im trying to use pi zero with ebb36 and rs485 can hat with pi as secundary mcu and not working... Some Times says is not possible to get spi connection
Is spi enabled on the pi ?
Will you also include a carbon gantry to save weight?
While I've purchased several carbon fiber tubes, all of them are much less straight/flat than the standard aluminum extrusion. So unless I find good CF tubing, probably not.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Then of course they are useless. FYSETC has a milled gentry. Maybe that's an option
@@minga85 I have not seen those....they look very nice! Hmmmm....
these are such great fixes! the "Rear_Umbilical_face.stl" on your github seems to be damaged somehow, it won't load properly....
Sorry about that. I'll recopy the files later tonight.
Have a look. I deleted the old file and replaced it with a 3mf file.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thank you so much for doing that! Looks great. I've been in the process of reassembling my 2.4 after switching to Canbus using Huvud board (haven't even powered it on yet though) and I was waffling about going umbilical or not. I think you've convinced me that umbilical is the cleanest way, thanks for that!
@@theamzngq I'm not sure the way I chose is the best and there are other options for umbilicals, but so far it's working. There are cables made this for this....
What size is your 2.4?
It's a 350mm.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop great, thanks. I am also doing that Z chain mod to my 350mm 2.4 so I was wondering if the bottom bracket would also work mounted in the middle to avoid having to move the cables. Seems like it will work just fine
@@alexchulzhanov My apologies, but mounted to the middle of the bottom extrusion in the rear or the back extrusion on the gantry? You can really mount it wherever you like. The only limitation is fitting enough cable chain under the gantry so you can have as much z height as possible. When the gantry is at it's lowest setting, space is very tight. So those mounting blocks are really positioned to make sure the cable chain long enough can fit.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Yeah I used the entire length of one of the XY chains to make sure it would have enough Z height. With the bottom block mounted in the middle it has just enough clearance for the B motor which is mainly what I was worried about. I also use Tap so the gantry comes down a few mm further than normal and there is still just enough clearance that it’s not squishing the chain. Works really well and really cleans up the look.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop did you add any links to yours or did you also use the regular length of the XY chain? I have not had the gantry that far up to tell for sure if it’s long enough or not but I think it is
when you install these things. how in the world does it even work? is it just downloading pre made code that someone has put together for us? or am I just dumb lol?
Klipper gets installed in the EBB36, your existing MCU and the PI. Klipper was designed to run with multiple MCU's simultaneously. So the part of Klipper running on the PI manages both your existing MCU as well as the EBB36. So Klipper properly sync and pushed to work to the proper MCU. It's really slick!
did you have issue with th adxl345 module?
I did not. I've run several resonance tests and it seems to work fine. However, others have asked me about this and some seem to be having trouble with this. I'm thinking of creating a video about it, but trying to figure out if there is enough content for a video.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshopmaybe the people whith 8mhz quartz have probleme
@@astoria2297 On the Waveshare, 12mhz. I don't see one on the EBB36, but I just followed the directions for the v1.2.
What version of the EBB36 are you using?
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop the Last one i think, make a big order from biqu, manta8p cb1 ebb36.......
👍🥳
Thank you!
Comment for alg. Great vid
Thanks!
how do i get my MCU serial id?
In the video you are using, go to 20:20 in the video and it shows you how.
Or, this should do it as well in the section called: "Update Controller Path"
The Voron instructions state this: docs.vorondesign.com/build/software/configuration.html
Why not use the poe headder instead of the gpio headder to power it
Meaning the PI?
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop yes. The 4 pins behind the eatgernet is for a hat to convert power over eathernet to rpi power. 3.3v I think?
@@mastermoarman I had a power supply for the pi, so I just used it. That does sound like something I could have used instead.
Would be lovely if someone implemented EtherCAT protocol, probably overkill tho.
It's funny you mention this. I was actually looking into this a week ago....
dude sad that You uploaded this vid just now... 1 or 2 weeks ago would be better ... had to learn everything myself 🤣
Ha! I wish I could have delivered this sooner! Thanks for watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop personally went octopus 1.1 to ebb36 directly and sensorless homing. Not solved umbilical itself jet but I liked idea of 6mm ptfe tubing. Though for me that solution might be troublesome as my wires are silicon coated. Doubt that i will get some weight saving as before i was running IDC flat ribbon cable instead of chains. You can check it on my channel on my VL serial number request video if curious how IDC setup looks. Had identical setup on both V2 an VL before this week. This is my 3rd wiring for my v2 🤣
@@Baltojikale I don't have the octopus, but if I did, I probably would have gone direct as well. It appears the spider might have the ability as well, but there's no documentation. I'm very happy with this. One day, I'll give sensor less homing a try. Thank you!
Watts divider by voltage = amps
Yes, but I lack the tool to measure actual draw. Thanks!
25:40 why should you have a endstop on the carriage? There really is no point for this, since both endstops are located on the right end of the x carriage.
By moving the end stops, the cable chains and wires can be removed from the x and y axis.
senorless homing on X axis would have been cleaner
It would be cleaner, but I'm scared of it :) Thanks for watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop It's not that bad I promise try and experiment with in the background I have it on my 2.4r2 and v1.8 no issue at all....your welcome.
@@GoldenJaguar3D You and others are making a convincing argument....soon.