Two Trees SP-5 3D Printer First Print!
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- This video gives a quick overview of the Two Trees SP-5 3d printer. A quick review of assembly with a few tips and then gets into some thoughts about the experience with this Two Trees 3d Printer along with some sample 3d printing.
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i also own a sp5, upgraded it with klipper using the mks pi. Now i think this printer can give a honest quality/speed considering its a cheap corexy, the downside point in therms of upgrading the printer, you dont have much space to place bigger steppers in the x and y axes. Like you ve said, it has potential, a thicker bed with ac heater, and a good direct drive extruder can turn this entry level core xy to another dimension
It's working quite well. I upgraded to Klipper as well. I also went to a direct drive extruder: www.printables.com/model/169465-the-diamond-mount
I made a silly mistake and broke the heat break in the hot end. It was the perfect excuse to make the change above.
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It's a nice 3d printer with lots of potential. I look forward to working with it over the coming months.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thank you for your comment on this 3D printer! I'm glad you're excited about its potential and look forward to working with it in the coming months. If you have any questions or need any assistance, feel free to ask me anytime. Wishing you great success in using this 3D printer! 🙌🖨
Can only advise people not to buy tow tree products
They don't live up to the warranty they give and don't care about shipping
Bring crooked machines onto the market so customers can just pay for crooks they can't use.
Have a brand new sp5 which has never made a print yet because it is very crooked and for that reason burnt motherboard and motor etc. of, have even had to pay for new parts and even if they use marlin packaged in their code, they can't and won't help and the mechanical parts that have to be changed for the machine to run yes you can't buy them without almost having to buy them a new machine and now it must be said that I am a trained precision mechanic, electronics technician and programmer and have developed printer plotters etc. for many years, that company is a scam and scam stay away from them and buy something else@@KapmansBasementWorkshop
Thank you. Any idea if a ball screw instead the T8 Lead Screw for the Z-axis would be helpfull/usefull for this printer to improve the Z? Or is that to much for that printer?
Are you going to use the high speed printer kit for the SP-5 or add the BL Touch?
I don't think a ball screw will improve this very much if at all. If anything, I'd like to see 3 lead screws....
I have multiple improvements planned including those you list. If my part comes in this week, I should have an improvement video this weekend....
Thank you!
bof
I'm in the process of revamping this...
Kapman, I bought an SP-5 last year. I ended up returning it for poor quality. The metal brackets between the bed and linear rails, the hot end brackets, and the bearing brackets at the top of the z-screws weren't straight and caused alignment and binding issues. I couldn't get the z home switch in the right position, and the cooling fans scraped the bed well before the nozzle came close.
I ended up returning the printer after 2-3 months of working with their disinterested tech support who tried blaming me. I never understood why they didn't just send me some replacement brackets to fix the problems.
Can you check your z-screws to see if they are binding? You didn't seem to have the same z homing and hot end issues that I had.
I'm sorry to hear this. The printer has been working well for me. I have not noticed those issues in the version I received. But, I will have a closer look. I did just recently break the heat break in the hot end, but it's purely my fault. And now, I have an excuse to mount a completely different hot end.
I have the older, smaller Sapphire Pro. It is a really solid design, but with a few cheap bits, like the hot end and extruder. Doesn't look like anything has changed in the newer SP-3 and SP-5 models. It is now a very dated printer and not something I would recommend to anyone wanting a good, just works, out of the box experience.
However, as a very solid frame with a good corexy motion system, it makes a great starting point to do your own thing. About the only original parts in mine are the frame and motion system.
That's pretty much where I ended up in my evaluation. But now, I cannot help it. I want to upgrade this printer.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Yes, lots of fun, they are really solid starting points for DIYers.
The problem I had with it out of the box is the hotend and extruder , I put a Voron extruder asembly on the one I built and its great now, I am also not a fan of the firmwear its a bit odd and clunkey I ended up putting Klipper on it, I did kinda buy it with the intention of a cheep Voron replacement tho
The firmware is going to change soon. So far, the hot end and extruder are working ok. But I assume that once I speed this up, they may not be able to keep up. Did you change the glass bed?
Same here. I use a fiber glass bed
Likewise, I DIY'd my own direct drive hot end using an Orbiter and Revo. I didn't like the original firmware and touch screen at all, I added a Pi and switched to Klipper. And, for that very neat factory original finish, a 3.5" Pi touch screen fits very neatly in place of the original allowing for integrated KlipperScreen.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I brought my Sapphire Pro second hand and the previous owner had glued the glass bed down. Hell of a job to remove it, but now using a PEI coated magnetic spring steel bed like all the cool kids now use.
@@davethetaswegian: I have not glued down the glass bed for that very reason. The bed is working well with the PEI flexible bed plate?
Looks like an Ender 7 with a lot of improvements, namely bed mounting and bed leveling.
Does the Ender 7 bed level differently?
I tried one of the Sapphires but the Y rails just bound up too much and no matter what pattern I tightened them in they would bind once the rail was fully bolted down. This was something I loved about my Voron 2.4 which was the perfectly smooth travel on both Y rails with no racking, both ends hit their min and max at same time which I thought impossible with 3D prints and extrusion. Perhaps this is where the genuine hiwin rails shine.
These were a little rough when new, but once I greased the rails, they seemed to run just fine. I have not had any trouble with the rails. That said, I like my hiwin rails a lot! Thanks!
Hi again. How look the improvements?
I have not received the kit and will upgrade next month my Saphhire. 🙂
I have not received it yet either. Still waiting.
If this one is not good to enclose which would you recommend to do that with? Looking to get into high temp filaments like ultem and pekk. Thanks for nor the nice review!
How high are you looking to get to? ABS & ASA or higher?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Higher, 350-400 extruder and up to 140 in the chamber. Haven't printed with it before but that's what's recommended for PEKK.
This guy has enclosed an older sp-5 it looks like with some success: ruclips.net/video/SmOzs3JZ6cE/видео.htmlsi=V8LqWfFzfFrqmutg
Those tend to use chamber heaters, external motors and more. The lower cost ones that I am aware of are from creatbot. These types of printers can get very expensive. Make sure you have a look at the filament costs as well. At least an order of magnitude more expensive.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop well the goal is to take a cheap printer similar to the one you reviewed, add some insulation, a heater, new hot end and probably some manual firmware changes and let her rip. Thanks for the tips about the external motors. I had not thought of that.
What stepper motor drivers did yours come with?
I don't want to pull a heatsink off to see. Is there another way to tell?
You should be able to pull the whole driver out of the board and see on the bottom side without pulling the heatsink off.
Can only advise people not to buy tow tree products
They don't live up to the warranty they give and don't care about shipping
Bring crooked machines onto the market so customers can just pay for crooks they can't use.
Have a brand new sp5 which has never made a print yet because it is very crooked and for that reason burnt motherboard and motor etc. of, have even had to pay for new parts and even if they use marlin packaged in their code, they can't and won't help and the mechanical parts that have to be changed for the machine to run yes you can't buy them without almost having to buy them a new machine and now it must be said that I am a trained precision mechanic, electronics technician and programmer and have developed printer plotters etc. for many years, that company is a scam and scam stay away from them and buy something else
I'm sorry that has happened to you. Which parts are crooked that are causing all the problems?
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I think a large part is in the holes, they were drilled to the wrong measurements, and what burned the motherboard off is a defective bearing in the beds so it falls a little to one side and thereby locks, the worst thing is that TowTree doesn't just send new ones parts or a new machine, even the software, they didn't want to help with that, so you had to spend some time yourself to get it up and running again, it's not right at all that a new machine should cost that much plus all the time that is used and still hasn't run a full print, most recently I tried to ask them where I can get some new bearings for the bed but they can't answer that either.
All machines can have errors and that's ok, but not that the manufacturer doesn't do something about it to solve it, I also once had problems with one from Creality but it was solved then even though I'm not a fan of their machines, people should probably buy from them or others who try to correct their mistakes in the future as well ..................So if anyone needs the Marlin code for such a machine, they can get it here, but you should probably expect it to have to be adapted a bit, since I don't have the opportunity to fully test it before the mechanical drive.
@@allanrasmussen5789 That's certainly not good. I would expect them to stand behind their product as well. Thank you for the feedback.
you two, and yes I admire someone who finally has a fine mechanical quality just lets it go when they are almost at the finish line, just introducing a quality control and some test people will help them a lot, but hey sure it's over with buying their products too have also suffered the same with a laser, the machine didn't fail with anything just before it was dangerous to use due to a cable chaos, so it just fell out so rather use a corexy I built myself@@KapmansBasementWorkshop
Hello! This is TwoTrees. Do you need any assistance? Can you provide your purchase order number? We will provide feedback to the sales department to help you solve the problem.
interesting printer,
nice and solid,
keen to see where this leads to. in the realm of mods.
It's crazy strong. That said, I'm envisioning your tool head on this.....