3D Printer Bed Mesh Generation Will NEVER Be The Same - Eddy v.s. Beacon
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- Опубликовано: 17 июн 2024
- It's official: scanning is the new probing. In this video I take a look at the new eddy current bed scanning probe from BigTreeTech, aptly named Eddy, comparing it to the existing solutions as well as its closest rival: Beacon. I provide an overview of the device, the technology behind it, and a comprehensive installation and setup guide.
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00:00 Scanning Is The New Probing
00:30 How Does It Work?
00:57 Beacon
1:26 Eddy
1:47 The Alternatives
2:02 The Importance of A Bed Probe
3:34 What Makes Scanning Probes Better?
3:50 Disadvantages of Beacon
4:12 Advantages of Eddy
4:35 USB, I2C & CAN
5:36 Eddy v.s. Eddy Coil
6:17 Voron CANBUS Conversion
6:56 Eddy Coil Installation
7:13 Eddy Installation
8:09 Klipper Setup
8:56 Klipper Updating
10:33 Eddy Firmware Updating
11:11 Printer Configuration
12:05 Application Specific Considerations
12:32 Thermal Drift
13:12 Eddy + Tap
14:07 User Controllable Parameters
14:27 Calibration
15:00 Testing
15:22 Probe Accuracy
16:23 The Perfect First Layer?
16:50 Eddy v.s. Beacon
17:16 Beacon Contact
17:40 The Perfect Probe?
18:00 Outro 
Наука
Klipper devs are developing a function that let all ldc1612 eddy current probes have tap functionality, cartographer is also developing an open source version.
That’s amazing news!
I cant wait for the cartographer tap to come out. Richard has done amazing things at such an affordable price. Makes me wonder why beacon is so utterly expensive. Mine's worked flawlessly for 6+ months.
@@YourBuddyDinec richard didn't spend any money on rnd
Got a link to this "announcement"?
@@alexanderkhalilieh7862 It's pinned on the discord
Can confirm Beacon contact is great. The printer auto calibrates its z offset for each print so I can change build surfaces, nozzles and even whole hotends with having to set anything.
Nice!
How did you get it?
very simple. Just do an upgrade and follow the doc how to modify your config. Takes some time, you have f.x. also to upgrade tthe firmware of your beacon. But when you are finished its very impressive. Super new functionality for zero coins. Great customer service !!!
@@valent_t It's a regular Beacon with their new firmware downloadable from their site as of a few days ago.
How does that work, though? As someone who changes nozzle sizes relatively often - and has observed a difference of over half a mm in nozzle length between different sizes and brands - anything relying on a statically-set nozzle Z offset just isn't going to work for me.
Nice move from BigTree, glad to see they have or are working on the three most common ways for talking to the rest of the printers, and that price point is very tempting. Will keep this in mind on my Ender5 to Mercury one upgrade I am working very slowly on.
We went from inductive probes to klicky-probes because PEI coating on magnetic build-plates is uneven.
Eddy probe does not take into account non-conductive media (PEI).
Lidar is the only way.
Exactly my thought. And about beacon - same, right?
@@vim55k yep, same
How thick is pei? Honestly pissing into the wind. It works flawlessly on pei.
We went to klicky probes from inductive not because PEI coating is uneven. It's because the z-offset has to change anytime you change build plate and that is annoying. A good PEI build plate has a very consistent thickness across its surface.
beacon and probably eventually all eddy sensors are now also touch probes.
The new beacon software allows it to detect when the nozzle hits the bed with around 50 grams of force and klipper is eventually going to support this natively for other eddy sensors.
This means the probe can now compensate for the thickness of a build plate on top of the bed while also giving automatic z-offset calibration. This only needs to be done for the initial bed leveling and z-homing, as any quality build plate that goes on top of the bed will vary by less than a fraction of a single layer height in its thickness.
The bed should be the only thing varying by an amount significant enough to effect initial layer quality.
Thus for the actual slow part the, bed mesh, the eddy sensor is used as normal and thus saves time. Also the increased accuracy from the denser mesh means that the build plate can vary more in its thickness before it could sum to a great enough deviance to cause a problem with initial layers.
Also LiDAR actually struggles with textured PEI plates, because it picks up the texture rather than the average thickness of the plate which is what you actually want. This is why bambu printers for instance turn LIDAR off by default on textured PEI.
I use a glass plate and the cartograph works just fine, its only kinda useless as the glas plate is quite flat. But this is just my experience
I have become so used to printing on non-metalic surfaces (mostly G10) that it always surprises me how many people completely skip over the fact that this is a big downside to any eddy current or inductive probe. I guess there is a lot of users who have "print surface" so synonymous with "metal sheet" in their mind this does not even occur to them. But for me an Euclid probe keeps delivering perfect first layer with reasonably fast probing sequence on any surface so well that for now I am not even considering swithing to any of these "game changing" new probes.
That’s fair and totally true - spring steel sheets have become somewhat ubiquitous.
@@ygk3d One point I did not mention to keep it brief: how much resolution on the mesh you need is also influenced by the type of print surface. On my Ratrig V-Core 3 500 I tried even pretty high mesh resolutions with different surfaces. It seems that if you forget some tiny debris on the magnetic sticker and put the standard spring steel over it you get a hill in that place that can screw up your first layer if no probe point is near. But you put 1.5mm thick G10 with a metalic sticker on the bottom onto the same debris on the same magnet and the hill may have similar height but it is so gradual the neighboring probe points make the mesh relfect the real shape of the surface well enough to have no issues with the first layer.
I use 10x10 when printing 450x450 mm or bigger and with the adaptive meshing algorithm this ends up being 3x3 mesh for any small print. With lifting the Euclid only 2mm after probing and 10k travel accelleration the probing is done in a few seconds. So this makes it hard for me to see how the faster scanning instead of probing would be a benefit even if it worked on G10 surface. Either it saves me few seconds on an hour long print or it gets me higher mesh resolution that does not reveal anything new.
I can absolutely see a scanner like the Eddy being much better than for example BLTouch that is quite slow with the pin deployment needed twice or more at every probe point. Compared to that it will be both faster and have better resolution.
@@hebijirik great perspective. Thanks for sharing. The use of adaptive meshing definitely makes a big difference. Really interesting about spring steel versus G10. You find the G10 has good adhesion and release for most materials?
Based on the beacon contact demo, it seems the contact/tap implementation would work at enough distance through the G10, so perhaps for those surfaces you still do nozzle probing?
@@ygk3d The G10 is absolutely excelent for PETG which I print very often. Unlike PEI powder coated surfaces there seems to be zero deterioration after any amount of printing. I once scratched it accidentally so I tried an orbital sander on it, cleaned and washed all the dust from the sanding and it was like new again. Still sticks like crazy while hot and releases easily when cooled down.
For PLA you need to degrease and clean it well, even fingerprints can decrease the adhesion too much. I would say it it slightly less bed adhesion for PLA than the PEI surfaces. But still very usable. When the plate cools down the PLA prints just completely release on their own.
ASA/ABS is adhering a bit better than PLA but not as much as PETG.
I decided to try the Vision Miner Nanopolymer adhesive on it and it works great too. It removes the PLA sensitivity to having it perfectly clean and freshly degreased. Prints other than PETG still completely detach once cold and the surface is still smooth.
I like the low cost (I got 4 500x500 for less than the cost of just 1 PEI sheet), the ability to easily fix up slight damage and the option to buy different thickness based on how stiff I need it for the size. I use 1.5mm on my 500mm V-Core but it felt too stiff for smaller printers. I tried 1mm thick for a Prusa MK4 and a 200mm V-Core and they work nicely.
Disadvantages are: the glass smooth bottom side of the print might not suit every part, so I still use powder coated PEI when I need that look. If your printer has magnets for metalic beds you can put a metalic sticker (used to make a magnet-holding whiteboard on any surface) but then you only get to use one side of the G10. Or you have to mess around with some other way to clamp it to your bed. Depending on where you are buying it might be easy or not - I emailed some local company that makes custom insulation for electric instalations and they sell it in 1050x1025 pieces in any thickness and they can cut it to smaller pieces of dimensions I ask for. So I got it quarted for the 500 and I got 16 pcs for MK4 🙂.
Your best video yet! The way you talk to the camera has drastically improved. It's no longer monotonic like before. Keep it up!
Inductive has been around in CNC for a long time.
I remember using inductive sensing on an Amada Lasmac LC1212 Apha II way back in 1998.
It's great to see this being introduced for bed levelling.
This combined with strain gauges to get accurate nozzle offsets and pressure information sounds like the ideal way to scan a bed.
First you tap like 3 points with the nozzle, then you get a detailed fast scan over the whole bed, then you compare those 3 areas with the offset of the eddy current sensor and bang, you've got insane accuracy across the whole bed and no z offset faff.
Very nice video! Thanks for your work. I hope my printer will have one of those eddies at some point but have a long way to go. You are doing a great job in helping me on my journey.
Thank you!
A walkthrough of the can bus upgrade would be amazing!
I would also love to see a CAN bus upgrade to the 2.4!
Loving your content. I've recently just gotten into 3d printing amd the mechanics to me aren't a problem. However I've been trying to learn klipper and it's a process but your understanding and explanations are a great help!!
Thank you very much! Glad to hear.
I disagree that it is more accurate then probing. You are scanning the metal and not the actual surface unlike something like voron tap.
Tap probes the actual surface and not some theoretical material with an offset.
Tap does not need an offset unless yo want more or less squish on the first layer. After that you set it once and forget about the Z offset even after changing plates.
Also it does not save much time when it takes a few seconds to prove when you compare to a min and a half on a 20+ hour prints..
Not to mention that as your nozzle wears it decreases in length - tap probe homing corrects for this by itself. There's a reason both Prusa and Bambu Lab are almost exclusively using tap homing.
Beacon contact is already here and it works great and I definitely have perfect first layers.
Beacon auto calibrate did it all on its own and I’ve never had a probe be able to “auto calibrate“ on klipper using their probe calibrate module without having to baby step it afterwards.
I’ve used bl touch, klicky, tap, and now beacon and beacon is the best probe hands down especially with contact.
Good stuff! Impressive that you didn’t need to baby step whatsoever.
@@ygk3d very impressive this is the first time in 5 years of 3d printing on multiple printers I couldn’t believe it either.
As someone who had id for more than 40 days, i can say that it's has it's problems. They have beem fixed as of now and i am happy with it and it's fast, but i use it with tap for the perfect z offset and without tap it's another story.
Interesting. It seems good in combination with Tap or an endstop pin. I haven’t used it for homing so can’t speak to how repeatable the z offset is.
Awesome, I have the 2.0 pro after watching your videos. I was already considering Eddy. Im nervous about installing can but it is a needed upgrade
_"The probe emits a electromagnetic field which induce a small electrical current in the nearby conductive medium"_
*But this is exact principle any inductive proximity sensor/switch used in 3D printers operates upon.* But you saying like it's something absolutely new and different which is not true. The actual major difference between the generic inductive proximity switches is that the first one is permanently set to a specific triggering hysteresis loop that obviously requires vertical movements to trigger whereas the latter one continuously register changes in the electrical current yet measures distance to a build plate surface.
Until btt eddy has some some actual more features, I'm sticking with cartographer3d for 35$ lol
I saw on the discord for it that they are supposedly adding a tap feature like the contact one as well. Has worked perfectly for me for like 6+ months now even at 105c beds for abs
Ya, I can't wait for tap support on my carto. It's made my k1 max so much better!
The BigTreeTech Eddy is currently not supported in mainline klipper yet, unless you wanna use Big tree techs fork( no one would want to). So they leave it up to the klipper developers to finish there product, unlike beacon or Cartographer3D that develop and support there products before and after releasing them.
Would love to see your take on a CAN BUS conversion walk-through/ install! After finalizing wiring my 350mm 2.4 i learned about how much nicer a CAN BUS setup would be so it's something I've been wanting to do since mid build 😅
I had already learned of the Eddy on BTT's site and ordered 2 USB versions on impulse... I'm glad that it was actually a good decision :3
Me too, I ordered my USB version two weeks ago, but they've yet to ship it, hmph!
Cartographer is working on the touch probing for z-offset. It also includes an accelerometer like beacon and has temperature compensation like eddy,it supports usb and canbus and is priced right in between eddy and beacon.
Given that, it's got the best bang for your buck! I've had mine on my k1 max for a couple of months now and it's been amazing.
Would have been interesting to see your findings if you had added that one into the mix too.
Based on my research technically you can run I2C over SPI bus which we have on BTT SB2209 but no one have done it so far and it could be an interesting setup.
I still think a simple load cell is the best bed leveling solution. If you use the nozzel itself to level then there is no offset to worry about. The printer knows EXACTLY where the bed is at each point. The only missing data is between the points but on a reasonably flat bed it really shouldn't have that much variance over a few centimeters. Your bed should be well within tolerance over that small distance. Yes this eddy current thing is continuous but if your bed is that wavy then you have bigger problems to worry about. 😂
Great video and thanks for all the info. But did i understand that right? After all that, Klicky and TAP are still far more accurate, all be it slower?
Possibly why you never get perfect first layers: maybe more of an issue for v wheels, but may apply to linear rails too. If there is any z deviation in height between the nozzle and where the probe ends up that matches where the nozzle tip was, then that will be a shifted value. So this is usually partially fixed with zero-y-offset mods on cheap v wheel printers, where the y value is the same for the probe and nozzle, yet it does nothing for the x axis. If there is a slight imperfection in one of the axes within the distance between your nozzle and probe, then it will not be accounted for in the mesh. The only way to fix this is to nozzle probe in one point then move the scanner or bed probe to the exact same point. Do this across the whole bed, it will then give you a map of the variance between actual nozzle distance and what the probe measures. Realistically you need to subtract or add this variance for the whole bed from the live bed mesh. Hopefully that makes sense, and it would be something possible to test.
I've been considering/planning on setting up my printer to Klipper for a while now. I think this may seal the deal.
Unless you are making changes to your printer constantly, the clicky or tap mesh works great if you, do a large number of points, and save meshes for a set of typical temperature ranges you print at. for example. I heat soak my printer with panels off at 60c bed temp for 30min, then do a bed mesh and save. in my print template for PLA, i load that bed mesh before print starts. I do that for PETG, ABS/ASA, etc. so I have a few profiles for different conditions. If you have a thick enough bed plate, and don't change the screws or other things on your printer, and do the same length of heat soak each time, the bed etc will expand and change basically the same every time so that the saved meshes work great. At least they have for me over the past couple of years.
Good tip!
This was an awesome video... I was wondering if I'd be able to use TAP for offset and Beacon/alternative for mesh... This video answered my question perfectly.
Thank you!
I have a bambu the only upgrades i did was the obsidian or DLC coated nozzle. I know DLC used a lot in gun industries so i figured it be good and it's great nozzle. Is this device domething you cash only use on voron style printers or could it make your bambu better? Thanks
I don't have a gantry.
How does the probe help with z offset.
Is it best combined with a load cell nozzle?
My voron tap does everything and give me perfect results 100% of the time, regardless of bed material and/or temperature. With adaptive bed mesh, you only mesh the part you actually use(faster) . Not sure saving such little time make sense all in all. More of a party trick in my opinion.
@YGK3D Would you mind sharing the slicer settings (Gcode feeds/speeds/material settings) for your first layer bed-covering tests? :)
You forgot to mention that the Eddy probe is not available right now.
I ordered mine more than 3 weeks ago along with other stuff from the biqu website.
Not only they haven't shipped anything from that order, but they said I should wait 20 more days.
When I asked to cancel the order of the Eddy probe, they just ghosted me.
Beacon has two additional killer features: z offset and accelerometer. Just that it’s worth the price difference.
Max operating temperature too, beacon clears all
its not really a versus in my opinion. for cheap printers, go with eddy usb. for something like a voron i would go for a can board + tap/klicky + eddy coil. slightly more expensive than beacon all together and much more functionality and only one cable
@@KilianGosewischtap is quite possibly the worst thing you can put on a voron, it cuts accel performance in half and brings it down to ender level resonance response. and tap with revo is the equivalent of swapping a lawnmower engine into a lambo. this is one of the many many many many advantages of beacon over tap, not having the extra rail axis, weight, etc. canbus also has a slew of issues compared to usb and other bus systems like ethercat, but thats a whole other thing.
will you be doing a vid on beacon contact when it comes out as it solves a lot of problems
Beacon contact is out already (filming must have been done a while ago). Contact literally >just works
@@Bogm8 lol had no clue it was already out
Innovation and competition!
Will it work with glass beds?
My Orion touch probe and glass bed always works fine on the printer I built from scratch.
is this similar to the eddy sensors on the a1 toolhead??
I'd expect the heat bed underneath would interfere! As might the saturation from the neo magnets.
How is this effected by thermal changes?
PINDA was ultimately phased out to a loadcell due to the bed probing not being accurate when heated even with a thermistor
Why is it bolted to the side of the toolhead at 1:40
its formfactor was designed to replace omron probe in the stock stealthburner carriage.
If you keep watching you’ll find out 😉
Did you have to convert the Troodon 2 to canbus to make this work? That part wasn't clear in the video. I have three Troodon 2 Pro units now and may consider this upgrade
No. I used the USB version of Eddy on the Troodon.
Have you looked at the bd sensor?
Yeah idk I use a gasoline bed for Nylons petg, and glass with pei for everything else, so these fancy inductive probes aint gonna do shit for me. The best way is lidar, and it shouldn't be too hard to figure out as the K1 max and X1C already have lidar models on them. Just need to figure out the programming side of things...
Please do a CAN conversion walkthrough.
you can use TOF050C-VL6180X to read the distance ...
I've been using the BD Sensor's from Mark at PandaPi 3D, its cheaper than these, more compact and the sensor is remote from the PCB so you can install extreme close to the nozzle, I even managed to install one on a Voron 0.2, I have a video showing it in action.
+1 Mark's BD Sensor works great ... I think it's a much better solution than Beacon or Eddy
Will it work through a glass bed?
Cartographer seems to be the best probe, you can choose between CAN/USB and change it after the fact. IDM is also a Beacon clone and cost the same a Cartographer. I would like to see the difference between all those.
Might be worthy of a follow up video!
So is there a version that will directly replace a BLTouch ?
Scanning can't be "the new probing". Bed Mesh generation is completely different from Z-Probing. Have fun adjusting your Z-Offset every time you change to a different print surface (especially if it's not made from spring steel).
I think scanning the "metal" bed is a step backward, since you are not printing on metal. That was PRUSA Pinda days and they are gone luckily. Today its load sensor or Bambu "knock" sensors. They compensate for thick plates, PEI, etc. These methods work perfect. Case closed.
that would be a good argument if it was anywhere near the level of accuracy and repeatability....it isnt. beacon can hit sub micron. and you cant do a 10,000+ pt bed mesh in 1 minute with a nozzle probe but you sure can on a beacon. running a 9x9 klicky on a 350 takes flipping forever and thats only 81 pt. i have a lot of printers (~25) and have tried just about everything. for example, on my newest printers (magneto x) my magneto for example has a nozzle load cell, but its only 0.05mm accurate- this is like 50x less accurate than beacon, i dont care if it can nozzle probe, it takes like 20 minutes to probe and the values are nonsense.
Note, this doesn't work on glass, it doesn't measure the surface, it measures the metal below the surface, so any variation in the for example the PEI thickness will NOT be detected
INTERESTING :)
I DID A THUMB-UP ABOUT THE VIDEO AND SUBSCRIBED TO THE CHANNEL :)
THANK YOU FOR SHARING :)
THANK YOU FROM ISRAEL :)
will eddy melt like the induction probes? :D roasted several of them.
Marlin, Z-Probe offset?
Its a nice concept but it just doesnt work with non conductive beds such as glass or g10
Can u do a video of this being mounted on a anycubic vyper please !!?? I wud love to have a better bed mesh for my printers
I don’t own that printer unfortunately.
You dont need to stop klipper when flash the sbc it stops and restarts automatically now
Magnetic induction is not proportional to distance, it decreases by distance squared divisor.
Interesting. Thanks for clarifying.
Vinyl record heads. I would imagine have amazing accuracy
That would be an interesting concept
This is one of the best things to happen to lab 3d printing.
Non-compensated temp drift of Eddy Coil is a really big con. Why not include temp probe there?
When I went to order a Beacon they contacted me shortly after saying "Hey, we're planning an updated version in a couple months. We know you placed the order, but if you'd like to hold off until then we'll send you the H no extra charge."
Definitely won me over as a customer for that. Especially now that the H has auto z-offset.
What is wrong with using a feeler gauge, and a correctly setup printer??
Same issues as all non touch probing though, must be ferromagnetic, must be uniform surface
I wonder why beacon requires you to not have any metal parts in the proximity, it shouldn't matter, all you would need to do is to just run some zero calibration high above the bed, metal bits above the coil will just shift the readings.
Eddy literally has two metal screws 15mm above the coil PCB.
Beacon is all about that reliability. After talking yo the creator you could have metal parts in the keep out but it'd impact performance and as such he advises against it so you can reproduce the results Beacon is showing on other machines
I would buy the Beacon, but they dont offer paypal payment terms, and I dont feel comfortable using my credit card on their site. Because of this, I almost bought the Eddy sensor but then I read bad reviews on it saying it did not work properly.
I purchased from their site and had a fine experience.
Good video!
Sorry, side criticism: you should look into something to help your audio. Something that removes the sound of you opening your mouth before you speak. I somehow heard it and now i cannot unhear. It might just be me but it's very noticable on ear buds.
Thanks. I’ll look into that.
Thanks. I’ll look into that.
Ill see you in 5 years when this is a standard. Aint worth the trouble currently imo.
Why not optical? It would elevate the need of magnetic surface.
why did you mount the eddy on the side of the SB? this is meant to go on the inductive mount
just watch the video dude
Pay attention
My anycubic vyper isn't going to know what hit it!
😂
I think it's a bit sad how a smaller company based on knowledge and hard work, like beacon, are coming up with new ways of improving the print experience and quality with pioneering technology only to be frowned upon for their price and then to be undercut by bigger companies like BTT.
why does eddy have a whole rp2040 on board? isn't that a bit of a waste? couldn't they have used an ATtiny or something less powerful?
Doesn't seem to have its own mcu (eddy coil). Eddy usb and can have a rp2040 you have to define as separate mcu
Good question. I’m not super familiar with processors and their specs but I’ll take your word for it that the RP2040 is overkill. I guess they’re cheap enough that it doesn’t matter.
Maybe because it's easier to manage inventory? BTT has a lot of products all using the same rp2040 chip.
Klipper has RP2040 support already as a generic controller, and the chips are very cheap. Never know what all you can truly add in the future with onboard processing for very little cost. My personal mainboards that I design are all RP2040 for similar reason, even if it's "overkill".
what about lidar
Oh look my eddy guide appeared 😅
I still dont recommend BTT Eddy over the others if youre wanting z-homing. Its good for bed mesh and that's about it.
Too many issues with temperature calibration etc atm to recommend it past bed meshing.
Beacon or Cartographer are my recommendations
sorry but I couldn't help but laugh when you quoted yourself as some kind of third party source of truth XD not sure if it was intentional or not
BTT Eddy has no thermal compensation
Anyone know if Eddy can be jiggered into a K1 Max?
I have seen someone who got the cartographer probe installed on theirs so you might be able to. It would have to be the USB model of course. It will depend on getting BTT's version of klipper on the mainboard and toolhead boards. I think that might be difficult though because I believe the cartographer install for the K1 relies on using a custom install script just to get vanilla klipper on the K1. Maybe when the Eddy is merged into vanilla klipper it will work.
Yes, I've already seen it. A user in the Devil Designs Discord has it working well. They combined btt repo with official +config.
Troodon 2.0 ?
Wait! I didnt get a Rubber Duck with my skr v3 !!
I’d demand a refund if I were you 😂
The firmware update process consumes about half of your video. It appears to be complex and time consuming. It makes the Prusa and Bambu procedures seem stunningly simple by comparison.
BTW, the background music became so annoying that I never finished the video. There is no need for background music.
Seems like more of hassle to set up more than anything!
If it is anything more than 5$ more expensive than what we have now then it is useless cause it is more than enough
Same shit to inductive one
I don't get it how it works as a contact probe with the nozzle by firmware update. Sorry it's a mystery to me.. How it recognize that the nozzle touches a surface...
Same. Not sure what wizardry that is.
@@ygk3d maybe some sort of measurement of the used current of the z-motors, when it touches something the used current would be higher so by firmware it says stop I'm touching something. Like sensorless homing works.. Maybe.... 🤷 Only that the nozzle touches any surface in this case...
The probe can detect when the magnetic field stops changing and treat it as an endstop.
The perfect layer is nonsense. You want some squish to prevent warping.
you can have perfect layer and squish.
I have neodymium in the bed. No scanning possible. I don't care.
glass bed doesn't work, too
i really like nozzle probing
Then beacon contact it is. Contact doesn't care about different magnetic fields as it looks for a spike or bump in the measurement. So also glass beds until a certain thickness even work if you got some metal beneath it. Currently beacon has invalidated each and every probe on the market, not factoring in price point. Claimed accuracy is extremely good, auto z offset or nozzle probing without the need for tap, piezo or force sensors, so no downsides of those. Tap reduces the structural integrity of the toolhead amd messes up pei sticker build plates, piezo and strain gauge levelling is slow, like 2 or 3mm/s z movement speed, strain gauges also require custom software if you want a actual force readout instead of a simple 0/1 signal
@@kilianlindlbauer8277 pretty much this ☝🏻
beacon has contact mode for nozzle probing that works on magnet inlay bed, glass etc. it can probe on an uncooked egg. it is currently the most accurate, lowest force contact probe. with magnet inlay bed you cant use scanning mode but the new nozzle probe contact mode does work and is still mega accurate, more accurate than anything else on the market.
This feels so disingenuous and biased in favor of eddy
How so? It’s focused on Eddy because I’ve already made a dedicated video about Beacon. Eddy is cheaper and smaller, which makes it the preferred option in my opinion.
Make the beds flat and stop this nonsense of developing workarounds instead of fixing the main cause.
this video is misleading and disingenuous at best....
How so?
So you cite the fact that you have to SSH into the PI to run the installer for Beacon as a negative and make BTT sound like the superior option because it's all supported in Klipper. That's a little deceiving at first. Running a klipper fork such as BTT's version is far more involved than a single install script. Maybe you should have started the video with something like "BTT sent me their new Eddy and want me to tell you why it's better than Beacon...."
Nice job on how to do a Klipper upgrade. I got tired of trying to remember all of that and just put it a script!
###---update-klipper.sh---###
#!/bin/sh
LIS2DW="/dev/serial/by-id/usb-Klipper_rp2040_4550357129139138-if00"
FYPIS="/dev/serial/by-id/usb-Klipper_rp2040_E66160F423829A37-if00"
sudo service klipper stop
cd ~/klipper
git pull
make clean KCONFIG_CONFIG=config.spider
make menuconfig KCONFIG_CONFIG=config.spider
make KCONFIG_CONFIG=config.spider
# ./scripts/flash-sdcard.sh /dev/ttyS0 fysetc-spider
echo -e "
"
echo "Loading firmware for Spider board"
echo -e "
"
./scripts/flash-sdcard.sh /dev/serial/by-id/usb-Klipper_stm32f446xx_4E0059001051383039343538-if00 fysetc-spider
make clean KCONFIG_CONFIG=config.rpi
make menuconfig KCONFIG_CONFIG=config.rpi
echo -e "
"
echo "Loading firmware for PI"
echo -e "
"
make flash KCONFIG_CONFIG=config.rpi
make clean KCONFIG_CONFIG=config.ebb
make menuconfig KCONFIG_CONFIG=config.ebb
make KCONFIG_CONFIG=config.ebb
echo -e "
"
echo "Loading firmware for CanBus EBB36 board"
echo -e "
"
# python3 ~/CanBoot/scripts/flash_can.py -i can0 -f ~/klipper/out/klipper.bin -u a68b05f2e380
python3 ~/CanBoot/scripts/flash_can.py -i can0 -f ~/klipper/out/klipper.bin -u 1893b8296dd8
# For the BTT S2DW Nozzle LIS chip
rm -rf ~/klipper/out/klipper-btt_s2dw.uf2
make clean KCONFIG_CONFIG=config.s2dw
make menuconfig KCONFIG_CONFIG=config.s2dw
if [ -e $LIS2DW ]; then
make flash KCONFIG_CONFIG=config.s2dw FLASH_DEVICE=$LIS2DW
echo -e "
"
echo "Loading firmware fon BTT LIS2DW board"
echo -e "
"
else
make KCONFIG_CONFIG=config.s2dw
mv ~/klipper/out/klipper.uf2 ~/klipper/out/klipper-btt_s2dw.uf2
echo -e "
"
echo "download ~/klipper/out/klipper-btt_s2dw.uf2 and copy to the chip in windows"
echo "scp tripi:./klipper/out/klipper-btt_s2dw.uf2 ~/Desktop/firmware.uf2"
echo -e "
"
fi
# For the FYSETC PIS Nozzle ADXL chip
rm -rf ~/klipper/out/klipper-fypis.uf2
make clean KCONFIG_CONFIG=config.pis
make menuconfig KCONFIG_CONFIG=config.pis
if [ -e $FYPIS ]; then
make flash KCONFIG_CONFIG=config.pis FLASH_DEVICE=$FYPIS
echo -e "
"
echo "Loading firmware fon FYSETC PIS board"
echo -e "
"
else
make KCONFIG_CONFIG=config.pis
mv ~/klipper/out/klipper.uf2 ~/klipper/out/klipper-fypis.uf2
echo -e "
"
echo "download ~/klipper/out/klipper-fypis.uf2 and copy to the chip in windows"
echo "scp tripi:./klipper/out/klipper-fypis.uf2 ~/Desktop/klippe.uf2"
echo "FLASH FIRMWARE...."
echo "1. press & hold the button"
echo "2. Connect to PC w/ USB cable"
echo "3. Release button"
echo "4. Open folde RPI-RP2, copy klipper.uf2 to folder"
echo "5. wait for copy to finish"
echo "6. Recoonect to printer"
echo -e "
"
fi
sudo service klipper start
#######
When the support for Eddy current probes is integrated into Klipper directly, without the need to use a separate fork, I do think that will be better in the long run. But for now, you're absolutely right. The process is much more involved for Eddy, especially given that Klipper breaks when the versions are out of sync. Great tip on the install script for updating!