Building the ERCF v2, Enraged Rabbit Carrot Feeder by Siboor. Part 5 - Wiring & software
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- Опубликовано: 26 май 2024
- This video series shows how to build an Enraged Rabbit Carrot Feeder known as the ERCF v2 for your 3d printer. The ERCF is a filament changer that allows your 3d printer to switch colors during a print. In this video, I'm using a Siboor kit. You will need to 3d print your own parts with this kit. The kit is organized really well with a toolbox of very high quality parts. It even comes with a BTT BigTreeTech EBB MMB Mainboard and 2209 drivers.
This video is part 5 which shows how to wire and install software for the BTT BigTreeTech EBB Mainboard used to control both the Cotton Tail filament buffer known as the ERCT and the ERCF. Note that while the ERCF is closely associated with the Voron community, the ERCF & ERCT should work with any 3d printer.
Important links:
- Siboor Kits can be found here at a discount of $15: shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=235544...
- If you wish to purchase the BTT BigTreeTech EBB MMB Mainboard and 2209 drivers for your own build, please purchase from: shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=189092...
Important documentation:
- ERCT Github for documentation and STL files: github.com/Enraged-Rabbit-Com...
- ERCF V2 Github for documentation and stl files: github.com/Enraged-Rabbit-Com...
- KlipperScreen Happy Hare Edition: github.com/moggieuk/KlipperSc...
Klipper LED effects: github.com/julianschill/klipp...
- Klipper LED Lighting:
github.com/julianschill/klipp...
- BTT BigTreeTech EBB MMB Mainboard documentation:
github.com/bigtreetech/MMB 
Наука
You should be sponsored, Best ERCF v2 building series
Thank you for the kind comments!
Awesome job on the series! Thank you for making it!
Thank you for the nice comments and watching!
Thanks for another videoe, its been a lot of fun following along with you.
🍻
Glad you enjoy it! Thank you for the nice comments and watching!
Super nice buildseries. Recieved my Siboor ERCF V2 kit today :)
I wish you a fantastic build. Thanks!
Waiting on the next video. This is great.
Working on it now....thank you!
Amazing! Can't wait to get started. Thank you!
Thank you. I wish you a great build!
You could probably use the GND and 5V from the reserved STP sockets (STP1 & STP2) for the extra LEDs and, as you said, solder the signal wire in series at the end of the LED strip. Unfortunately, the RGB socket pin (PA2) looks like the only one capable of PWM (apart from the motor PWM pin, PA0), which LEDs need. Siboor missed a trick here to make this a bit easier by putting another connector block at the end of the strip. I'll probably not bother with the coupler block LEDs but the selector one may help troubleshooting in operation.
Actually, the selector LED cable passes through the cable chain since it needs to accommodate the entire length of the ERCF so the connections have to be made at the MMB end, which means the selector LED needs to be the first in the chain but in series with the LED strip otherwise it will be the same colour as LED0. This isn't straightforward at all unless Klipper can do a software PWM on pins PA3 & PA4 to keep the LED chains independent. Klipper can do software PWM on the MCU so it depends on whether the MMB is capable. It should be.
I ended up just using the led pcb. Looking at where I was going to indtall this and because I used black fillament, I decided to not use the other LEDs. Thank you for this tip!
Great Series
Thank you!
Thank you for putting this together ❤
Thank you for the nice comment and watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I have been meaning to understand how ercf and similar mmu systems work. I recently completed my first voron and a trident and looking to expand more on its functionality so trying to understand mmu and toolchangers
@@sanketss84 Well, I'm actually doing the same thing as you!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop what I wanted to do was automate filament change with just two spools.
for that I needed a way to synchronize another motor with extruder motor which will pull/push the filament from the bowden on filament change macro. this motor will disengage during normal print with the help of a stepper mechanism. hence I was trying to understand the mechanism of 3d chameleon , ercf v2 and trad rack and spin my own simplistic version which would work just for two spools.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop this system will be cheaper than an idex or dueling dragons or tool changers as they have other headaches of managing the kinematics and taking apart the belts and also programming the usage of multiple toolheads. and add to that nozzle alignment.
Please note when you release the final part that not all SIBOOR kits are created equally. Myself and several others had a rigid PCB pre-gate board which has been known to cause problems (false gate reporting) and while some kits have WRGB LED's others use RGB only. I would make sure people understand what version of the kit your configs are for, if you still plan to release! I have the WRGB rigid pre-gate board version and I am having a ton of issues.
I do plan on releasing another video to conclude this. However, I fried my SB2209 by mistake. Waiting for it's replacement. About the PCB, I ripped out a microswitch by mistake. It just pressed back in since it wasn't soldered. But that microswitch and each surrounding it became unreliable. I pulled off the circuit board and soldered wires instead. Rock solid. I recommend following the manual on cutting the wire lengths and soldering. In the long run, it saved alot of time! In the last video, I plan on covering this as well.
Does happy hare have some discord or community for discussions , this is quite neat and very well put together.
I could not find one. The only thing I can see is his Github. I agree with you. The software is an amazing package. A lot of work went into it. I will send some funds his way via the link on Github.
This series really came at the best time possible. I just bought my ERCF V2 from Siboor and this series has been a big help in double checking my work. The Documentation is missing a lot of information like the servo arm and the how to mount the LED. I have no idea what the Extra LEDs were for? I can't seem to mount it to the back of the ERCT.
I didn’t spend a lot of time in the video for the servo arm, but does it cover enough? The documentation for ERCF states that it should be mounted during calibration. But there really are no instructions, diagrams or photos to show it. The string of wired leds mount shining into the buffer. This didn’t seem super useful to me and I don’t expect to be ever looking at the back side either. I also used black filament, so it won’t let light through anyway. I decided to leave them off. If you ever find out where the single led mounts, please let me know!
Question for you that will help me orient to this video.
I've noticed that people use two strategies getting the CanBus signal sent.
Strategy 1) "Raspberry pi" connects via USB to "Printer MCU board" (ie, Octopus 1.1), then use the canbus out plugs on that MCU board to send CanBus to your ERCF.
Strategy 2) "Raspberry pi" connects via usb to "Printer MCU board" to control printer generally. But the pi also connects with a second USB cable to a "USB to CanBus Bridge board" (ie, BigTreeTech U2C adapter board). Then you connect you CanBus cable from that bridge board to your ERCF.
I know both of these strategies work - which is this video using? (my hunch is it's strategy 1, but I'm unclear)
Thank you!
I'm actually using Strategy 2. My U2C is pre-exisitng since my 2.4 alrady has canbus installed for the printer tool head that is using an SB2209. There is a 3rd way too....
Strategy 3) Just use USB and a power cable and don't use canbus at all. I have never tried that before, so I can't give good guidance here. I believe the Esoterical website covers that if you want to try that.
Thanks for watching!
Hi, I am setting up a new Voron 2.4 r2 type printer, I am using a BTT M8P with a CB2, when everything is ok I would like to get started on the ERCF too but I already have the extruder in CanBus to connect to my M8P and I can't yet find a video that shows what to do in this case...
I must directly put it in parallel with it, remove a 120ohm resistor, move it?
If you are using a U2C or the existing mcu with canbus capabilities, you need to one terminator on that device. In addition, you need a terminator on the oppposite end of the canbus. Most people will attach the terminator on the very last canbus device.
Also, if you are using the U2C, it's actually a small canbus all on it's own. Meaning each socket sits next to the other on the bus. So you can have a terminator on the last device connected to the green wire terminals and then run cables from each of the sockets to individual canbus controllers, all without terminators. It's pretty cool.
Is this using a canbus board like a btt u2c or is it using the canbus on something like an btt octopus?
I'm using a U2C. My MCU is a Spider 1.0. I also use a SB2209 over canbus in the tool head (installed previously).
Nice video , will you make a setup one for the Happy Hare calibration ?
I think so. But I will 1st create a video for the tool head modifications. Then I can completely configure Happy Hare. That said, the Happy hare instructions are pretty good in this area.
I’ve ran into some issues after noticing you are communicating with can. my printer does not have a can interface. I flashed katapult using usb instead can. I can see it listed as a katapult device when i search for it, but obviously nothing comes up on can0. Am i still able to set everything up and is e this board with usb only or will i need to get a can add on to use with my printer to be able to use the ERCF?
You can just install Klipper on the controller and not use canbus. The controller will appear as a second mcu that you will declare in the printer. Cfg file.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thanks for the fast reply, I got it talking with klipper hat a few minutes ago. The selector is working, but for whatever reason my drive stepper is not working. Have checked the stepper it’s self if good. I’d like to check that is set as the right pins. in hawrdware it’s just mmu:MMU_GEAR_STEP. Where do i find what those actual pins relate to? I might try changing it to the 3rd drive to see if that solves it
UPDATE- found the code in mmu and changed it to drive 3 and now it works fine
@@JacobBlocker Cool. I’m glad you got it working.
Where did you get the stl for the led pcb? I cant seem to find it...
It's right here: github.com/Lzhikai/ERCF-V2-Accessories
Thanks for watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Great! thanks
Guten Morgen, haben sie das mmb 1.0 Bord oder das mmb 1.1 Bord verbaut??
Guten Morgen! I believe I have the 1.1. But I need to remove it to see the back side to be completely sure....
Did you get this 8 neopixel PCB to work correctly?
I have also built the siboor kit.
After the installation it was reversed with the basic configuration in my case.
A simple change from 1-8 to 8-1 made the whole thing even more confused. Now I've been playing around with the mmu_hardware.cfg for days but nothing useful comes out of it and I'm beginning to think it's a hardware defect.
Basically there shouldn't be much to it, I only use the 8 neopixel PCB like you in the video.
mmu_num_leds -> 8
mmu_num_gates -> 8
exit_range: 1-8 / 8-1
No status_index
I also played around with the color_order, also without success
I did get it working. It took a few tries:
[mmu_leds]
num_gates: 8
led_strip: neopixel:mmu_leds
exit_range: 8-1
#entry_range: 9-{mmu_num_leds}
status_index: 9
frame_rate: 24
also:
[neopixel mmu_leds]
pin: mmu:MMU_NEOPIXEL
chain_count: 9 # Number gates x1 or x2 + 1 (if you want status)
color_order: GRBW
I believe that was it. If not, I can dig a little more.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Unfortunately, the config does not work for me.
I have also tested the 8 Neopixel cable, but this does not work at all.
What I find strange with the Neopixel PCB is that when I deactivate it or switch from status to filament color, the number, position and color of the LEDs change with each switching. There is no consistency.
But maybe there are kits with different hardware in circulation, my Microswitch PCB for the Coupler Blocks is also solid and not flexible like yours.
@@Heyde84 Seems the kit might have changed. But I've always had these led strips work the same way, except if when 3 or 4 colors. Hmmm.
I got to 4:50, and got a error. I think it's something about an updated version or something. For anybody else who had the error, please help. I have no idea what I'm doing.
Please copy the message you get and post it here.
I don't have the uuid from katapult though. I don't know if that's important.
@@alexlikesallthegamez Please paste the error message you are getting here in the comments.
ERROR:root:Can Read Error
Traceback (most recent call last):
File "flash_can.py", line 137, in send_command
ret = await self.node.readuntil()
File "flash_can.py", line 287, in readuntil
return await asyncio.wait_for(self._reader.readuntil(sep), timeout)
File "/usr/lib/python3.7/asyncio/tasks.py", line 423, in wait_for
raise futures.TimeoutError()
concurrent.futures._base.TimeoutError
@@alexlikesallthegamez Are you using a U2C?