My first experience with ASA was making gauge clusters after learning the hard way PLA does not like heat at all , and by chance found your channel when looking for filament recommendations what a small word the car world is , 😀😀
Really cool stuff! The main reason I got a 3D printer is for automotive projects. The channel NeedItMakeIt has been doing awesome videos on 3D printed joints for optimal strength and aesthetics. Def check it out for some ideas on how to join parts!
3d printing is so nice to have. Great for random knick knacks but man it's SO CONVENIENT for custom practical bits too. I did a custom column trim piece for a Buddhist temple a few months ago since they were remodeling and needed to replace some damaged ones. It would have cost hundreds for a local contractor to custom mold them for new ones but I was able to model up the piece like 95% accurately (these were at the top of the columns so you couldn't tell at a distance anyways) and print them for
3D printing and car parts... you're speaking 2 of my preffered languages! Also holy cow... No "quick" trips to your dad's shop from Oregon! I've been keeping an eye out for an older truck myself... something cheap yet not a major project... preferrably something prior to 1970... haven't found the perfect candidate yet... I should probably get the current project ('91 240SX) back on the ground first... it's been years, but it needed way more work than I anticipated.
Eh, even now there are no "quick" trips to Dad's. It is a 10 hour drive from PA. I've taken to flying down when I can, so that won't be any different from Oregon. And flights from Portland to NC are surprisingly reasonable thankfully. Good luck finding a truck! I'll be on the hunt for one myself when I get to Portland.
3d printers are great for custom car builds. We actually build most of our car interiors via CAD and 3d print at this point. Opens up so many opportunities that are near impossible with MDF and kitty hair. Just finished a 96 supra with fully printed dash, door panels, and so on. The shape of the doors and dash would have been nearly impossible without it.
I've been 3d printing various parts for my wife's bikes and her classic truck. We're rewiring it, and last week I printed an ABS adapter bracket for the aftermarket fuse block. I have a bracket to mount a battery bank to her bike stem right now so her go-pro can last all day on her 100 mile ride Sunday.
Welcome to Oregon! I’m in Central Oregon, just south of Bend. I’ve been building a 3D printed line of products for hot rods, muscle cars, trucks, etc. I’ve been using ASA exclusively for my products.
Sadly it’s unlikely I’ll be at 3D Printopia this year. Having to come back across the country will be hard to justify so soon after the move. That and I’m trying to make it to England and Germany for SMRRF & FormNext so it’s a lot of expensive travel yet this year.
I've been 3D printing parts for my builds for a while now. LOTS of things being printed for my '68 GMC project, lots of little parts that are crazy expensive for some reason, or just flat out don't exist.
what's your opinion on using polycarbonate for these type of parts? I agree nylon is not a great choice due to how badly it creeps and deforms over time after it absorbs moisture.
Maybe some cooperations with BisforBuild on 3d printed body kits coming in the future? They’re a RUclips channel from the Portland area and started using 3d printing recently.
Time for “abrasive” X1C. Slicer allows you to cut up shapes and choose the guide method. Like slots or dowel pins and prints them with the print. I’m sure Prusa slicer does as well
I am curious what was wrong with the fit of the previous cluster housing. How was it fixed? People don't seem to understand how things need iterations to fit properly. I also recently started using Tig rod for reinforcement. Reasonably priced and little variation in diameter.
Thanks for those clamp files they are great and going to be really useful! But what I'd really love to see is a file for that really neat Deutsch connector bulkhead fitting. That's so good being flush fit and would make the wiring on my dragster a hell of a lot neater. Any chance of that file being available? Thanks
Why add the tear drop to the holes? I'm just starting to learn to do my own designs. I have no engineering background, so the vidoe peaked my interest in the design.
Thank you for being honest and keeping the bits where things don’t work. I think more and more people should do that so that we as a community learn that failure is totally okay and part of the process! For me, it also makes me say “oh! So I’m not alone and a failure! All makers go through this”.
I used to be afraid that folks would judge my skills or something. Then I realized that was a silly ego thing and that it really does help everyone realize we all have to learn from mistakes. Thanks for saying so. 👍🏻👍🏻
I've had good luck so far with PETG parts on my motorcycle, I truly need to do more long term road testing before recommending it though! Great video! Enjoy Portland and welcome to the west coast!
Amazing idea but i do have a question fo you think old Ender 5 motion system mods would work on the S1 cuz i wanna convert mine to a Cross XY and i cant model for crap
I haven’t had the S1 for a while. The only issue I can see is that the extrusions aren’t the standard “open on all sides” right? So if the mod mounts to the extrusion side or something, you are out of luck.
Good vid! I got into 3D printing and CAD because of my project car I designed a rear disk setup to replace the drums. I prototyped it all with the 3D printer then get the parts CNC'ed
That was the driving force for me. I wanted to do more one off CNC and use printing to prototype. Basically never did it though cause I dove so hard into printing. 🤣
@@MandicReally Yeah my friends jokingly give me a hard time that that I'm more in to modifying my printer and printing stuff than finishing my car. 3D printing is pretty fascinating if you get bitten by the bug! BTW your Dad's truck looks great!
I have wanted a 3d scanner for so long so i can make custom pieces for my car or any friends. Would also help with stuff like my family owns a business and has equipment that costs an arm and a leg but is old enough they dont make parts for. 3d printing is a ready and capable solution for stuff like this.
When I got my first 3D printer last July, I had 3 projects I wanted to complete, the 2nd was a dash mounting bracket and bezel to put a new radio in a 1996 car, I used ABS but I wrapped it in vinyl. The 3rd was an enclosure for the Water chiller that cools water for the vest on my motorcycle (It’s like AC for the Motorcycle). I had no 3D modeling or printing experience, but those projects turned out great. I expect to do more auto related projects.
I am modelling the whole dashboard and the mid console for my 72 Camaro.. will do other parts also, but later as this project is not going as I planned ;) I have printed endless prototypes!!! but it starst to be there.. some fine tuning and it should be ok. so far I used PLA, but the final version will be also from ASA.. for the design, I am going totally insane and classic car people will hate me.. The car project for me has been the gateway to 3d printing as I just had to learn it.. I do the precision parts with onshape and the sculpting in VR. It is so cool what we can do with there tools!
Even the Northern Carolina, tends to get a bit warmer then South East PA. Even if we do get crazy hot and humid summers up here. So ASA Seems waaay better than PETG.
A video on design considerations for 3d printing from a fabricators perspective would be amazing. Maybe lessons learned, much like the changes you made to your old designs in this video. Great content as always.
I printed an overhead GMRS / radio mount that replaces the factory sunglass holder in my Forester and a mount for a smaller washer bottle and fuse box mount in my engine bay out of polymaker ASA. All of it has been on my car for over a year now with no issues. I love that stuff.
I don’t share profiles unfortunately. Every machine varies. I’ve got a half dozen Polymaker ASA profiles because it behaves differently on different machines. Each has different temps & pressure advance. Ballpark of where all my profiles land: - .93-.96 Extrusion Multiplier - 240-260C extrusion temp - .02-.0325 Pressure Advance (direct drive) Those are really the most important factors imo. The rest is even more machine specific due to cooling capabilities, chamber temps, etc.
@@MandicReally I was mainly curious to see where your temps and PA landed compared to mine. Been fine tuning my polymaker asa profile over the past week and I thought the pressure advance was quite high, but it looks like yours is just as high. I've got .967 extrusion multiplier, 255c and .0315 PA. Thanks for the sanity check!
10:33 fiber reinforced polypropylene would be even better choice than ASA/PA it does not soak water at all, has pretty good thermal resistance, isn't worse than ASA in context of UV resistance, superb impact resistance and almost perfect layer adhesion, you'll need to make an FR4 flextplate as well as heat bed that can heat up to 130c, yet it is worth it.
@@MandicReally it doesn’t really needs heated build chamber, with 30% of glass fiber it’s shrinking coefficient is lower than ABS one, so passive chamber and FR4 at 130c will do the trick
Sorry, point of that was that the heated chamber machine will also have a bed capable of those temps. I could probably swap thermal fuses on my current 2.4 but the next build I already intended to setup with a bed capable of 130-140C.
@@MandicReally well, 3M acrylic adhesive used by keenovo is rated for 200c in load “for hours”(don’t really know how much is it) but in my case I’ve just removed it completely and applied heater to aluminum plate with automotive 280c gasket rtv silicone(abro) and swapped thermal fuse to 165c so it won’t loose adhesion until I’ll intentionally scrape it off :)
When holes are oriented on the vertical plane (z axis) while in print orientation, they can have trouble bridging or drooping into the hole. A tear drop gives a better and more printable angle to make the holes turn out smoother and with less material sagging into the hole bore. Sometimes that sag can cause the bore to be smaller, or more often it can cause minor artifacts at that layer height from the nozzle colliding with the sagging bits at the top of the hole. Hope that makes sense.
@MandicReally makes perfect sense thanks man, I will have to start integrating that into mine now. Love your channels mate found you as the hod rod hippy. Keen to see the ratrig arrive soon.
@@MandicReally that's pretty cool, where did you pick that up?? what % infill are you using for ASA?? I've been using PC w/ carbon fiber, kinda cool, just need the harder material nozzle to handle the abrasive characteristic of the CF. Great video, thanks for sharing with us.
I would suggest using HT-PLA. Good ones ( like the stuff from Proto-Pasta) is safe to 140-150 C, and there’s no way anything in a car gets this hot, except if it’s burning down 😁😉
Those materials require heat treatment to achieve those temperature ranges. To my knowledge that carries the possibility of dimensionality changing. Designing for that would be difficult. When ASA (which is cheaper) is easy to print, and also UV stable. HTPLA doesn’t have that going for it. Cars are exposed to the sun a lot.
@@MandicReally you‘re wrong (or let’s say: your informations are outdated) - check the pla i mentioned above as an example, no heat treatment necessary. It’s quite cool we have these possibilities these days 😉
My first experience with ASA was making gauge clusters after learning the hard way PLA does not like heat at all , and by chance found your channel when looking for filament recommendations what a small word the car world is , 😀😀
Really cool stuff! The main reason I got a 3D printer is for automotive projects. The channel NeedItMakeIt has been doing awesome videos on 3D printed joints for optimal strength and aesthetics. Def check it out for some ideas on how to join parts!
3d printing is so nice to have. Great for random knick knacks but man it's SO CONVENIENT for custom practical bits too. I did a custom column trim piece for a Buddhist temple a few months ago since they were remodeling and needed to replace some damaged ones. It would have cost hundreds for a local contractor to custom mold them for new ones but I was able to model up the piece like 95% accurately (these were at the top of the columns so you couldn't tell at a distance anyways) and print them for
3D printing and car parts... you're speaking 2 of my preffered languages! Also holy cow... No "quick" trips to your dad's shop from Oregon! I've been keeping an eye out for an older truck myself... something cheap yet not a major project... preferrably something prior to 1970... haven't found the perfect candidate yet... I should probably get the current project ('91 240SX) back on the ground first... it's been years, but it needed way more work than I anticipated.
Eh, even now there are no "quick" trips to Dad's. It is a 10 hour drive from PA. I've taken to flying down when I can, so that won't be any different from Oregon. And flights from Portland to NC are surprisingly reasonable thankfully.
Good luck finding a truck! I'll be on the hunt for one myself when I get to Portland.
Good luck looking for an old truck a few months ago I was able to find a 1980 El camino there's only 500 of those in the US (atleast known)
3d printers are great for custom car builds. We actually build most of our car interiors via CAD and 3d print at this point. Opens up so many opportunities that are near impossible with MDF and kitty hair. Just finished a 96 supra with fully printed dash, door panels, and so on. The shape of the doors and dash would have been nearly impossible without it.
I've been 3d printing various parts for my wife's bikes and her classic truck. We're rewiring it, and last week I printed an ABS adapter bracket for the aftermarket fuse block. I have a bracket to mount a battery bank to her bike stem right now so her go-pro can last all day on her 100 mile ride Sunday.
oh nice swap!
i might know a thing or two about that but looks like you dont need any help!
Welcome to Oregon! I’m in Central Oregon, just south of Bend. I’ve been building a 3D printed line of products for hot rods, muscle cars, trucks, etc. I’ve been using ASA exclusively for my products.
Gloop.
Glooping!
Oh wow! Good for you on the move. Will you still be at Printopia this year? I’m a car guy too.
Sadly it’s unlikely I’ll be at 3D Printopia this year. Having to come back across the country will be hard to justify so soon after the move. That and I’m trying to make it to England and Germany for SMRRF & FormNext so it’s a lot of expensive travel yet this year.
@@MandicReally dang. That sucks. You wouldn’t remember me but we had a nice conversation this past year there.
I've been waiting for this!! Heck yeah dude!
I've been 3D printing parts for my builds for a while now. LOTS of things being printed for my '68 GMC project, lots of little parts that are crazy expensive for some reason, or just flat out don't exist.
I’m in Portland Oregon. Tualatin specifically. Just picked up a ender 5 plus from marketplace for larger prints
what's your opinion on using polycarbonate for these type of parts? I agree nylon is not a great choice due to how badly it creeps and deforms over time after it absorbs moisture.
hey just wondering but when you move are you looking to get rid of some machines? cuz I'm not to far and would gladly pick some up :)
Wow PA to OR, can't move farther away me thinks, LOL Safe travels
I’m trying to learn to print ASA on my P1S but I keep getting random failures and can’t dial in the settings. Any tips?
Maybe some cooperations with BisforBuild on 3d printed body kits coming in the future? They’re a RUclips channel from the Portland area and started using 3d printing recently.
Time for “abrasive” X1C. Slicer allows you to cut up shapes and choose the guide method. Like slots or dowel pins and prints them with the print. I’m sure Prusa slicer does as well
I am curious what was wrong with the fit of the previous cluster housing. How was it fixed? People don't seem to understand how things need iterations to fit properly.
I also recently started using Tig rod for reinforcement. Reasonably priced and little variation in diameter.
Thanks for those clamp files they are great and going to be really useful! But what I'd really love to see is a file for that really neat Deutsch connector bulkhead fitting. That's so good being flush fit and would make the wiring on my dragster a hell of a lot neater. Any chance of that file being available? Thanks
Not many people know this but PVC pipe glue works wonders for in my experience PLA ABS and ASA
gratz on the move! I hope it goes smoothly for you.
Thank you very much!
It's hard to find a mechanic fuel sending unit for a catalina. Frankly, I thought getting one 3D printed.
I’m gooning
Why add the tear drop to the holes? I'm just starting to learn to do my own designs. I have no engineering background, so the vidoe peaked my interest in the design.
Enjoy PDX (I know I do, as a European that has visited a couple of times). And good luck with the move and all the prep!
So when I did the dash on my 71 Dart I printed it out of ASA and then used acetone to melt everything together.
Xtellar (Taulman3d) has some colored translucent filaments
Sorry if I missed this elsewhere, but I am curious why you teardrop holes?
Thank you for being honest and keeping the bits where things don’t work. I think more and more people should do that so that we as a community learn that failure is totally okay and part of the process! For me, it also makes me say “oh! So I’m not alone and a failure! All makers go through this”.
I used to be afraid that folks would judge my skills or something. Then I realized that was a silly ego thing and that it really does help everyone realize we all have to learn from mistakes. Thanks for saying so. 👍🏻👍🏻
4:08 v24 all but confirmed, got it.
Not yet... Something else big, but not THAT big. haha
@@MandicReally It’s the Rat Rig V-Core 4.0, perhaps the 500mm variant.
I've had good luck so far with PETG parts on my motorcycle, I truly need to do more long term road testing before recommending it though! Great video! Enjoy Portland and welcome to the west coast!
Amazing idea but i do have a question fo you think old Ender 5 motion system mods would work on the S1 cuz i wanna convert mine to a Cross XY and i cant model for crap
I haven’t had the S1 for a while. The only issue I can see is that the extrusions aren’t the standard “open on all sides” right? So if the mod mounts to the extrusion side or something, you are out of luck.
Good vid! I got into 3D printing and CAD because of my project car I designed a rear disk setup to replace the drums. I prototyped it all with the 3D printer then get the parts CNC'ed
That was the driving force for me. I wanted to do more one off CNC and use printing to prototype. Basically never did it though cause I dove so hard into printing. 🤣
@@MandicReally Yeah my friends jokingly give me a hard time that that I'm more in to modifying my printer and printing stuff than finishing my car. 3D printing is pretty fascinating if you get bitten by the bug! BTW your Dad's truck looks great!
You're gonna miss the food in Philly
Philly does have solid food, but we are Vegan and Portland is WAY better for Vegan food. I'm gonna miss a LOT about Philly though.
No Way, Portland is Ranked 10 in the world for best food. Thanks, but we got it all literally, and some of the best craft beer and craft liquors.
Oh but the homeless is friggin insane here, no one will do anything to help combat the issues daily.
I have wanted a 3d scanner for so long so i can make custom pieces for my car or any friends. Would also help with stuff like my family owns a business and has equipment that costs an arm and a leg but is old enough they dont make parts for. 3d printing is a ready and capable solution for stuff like this.
When I got my first 3D printer last July, I had 3 projects I wanted to complete, the 2nd was a dash mounting bracket and bezel to put a new radio in a 1996 car, I used ABS but I wrapped it in vinyl. The 3rd was an enclosure for the Water chiller that cools water for the vest on my motorcycle (It’s like AC for the Motorcycle). I had no 3D modeling or printing experience, but those projects turned out great. I expect to do more auto related projects.
I am modelling the whole dashboard and the mid console for my 72 Camaro.. will do other parts also, but later as this project is not going as I planned ;) I have printed endless prototypes!!! but it starst to be there.. some fine tuning and it should be ok. so far I used PLA, but the final version will be also from ASA.. for the design, I am going totally insane and classic car people will hate me.. The car project for me has been the gateway to 3d printing as I just had to learn it.. I do the precision parts with onshape and the sculpting in VR. It is so cool what we can do with there tools!
Even the Northern Carolina, tends to get a bit warmer then South East PA. Even if we do get crazy hot and humid summers up here. So ASA Seems waaay better than PETG.
Also, I agree with Polymaker ASA - love the stuff. Solid and beautiful prints once everything is dialed in.
A video on design considerations for 3d printing from a fabricators perspective would be amazing. Maybe lessons learned, much like the changes you made to your old designs in this video. Great content as always.
I printed an overhead GMRS / radio mount that replaces the factory sunglass holder in my Forester and a mount for a smaller washer bottle and fuse box mount in my engine bay out of polymaker ASA. All of it has been on my car for over a year now with no issues. I love that stuff.
I wanted to be the first to welcome you to the Pacific Northwest! I question your choice of Portland, but questionable choices can be fun too! 😂
I recognized that protoxtruder instantly. My favorite extruder.
Watching this video in Eugene to help my dad with custom car parts
Good luck Smart Man ,
Perhaps PA12 would be good choice too
Really good choice in many ways, just more difficult for most folks to run.
PETG is an option.
Any chance I can get your Polymaker ASA profile? lol
I don’t share profiles unfortunately. Every machine varies. I’ve got a half dozen Polymaker ASA profiles because it behaves differently on different machines. Each has different temps & pressure advance.
Ballpark of where all my profiles land:
- .93-.96 Extrusion Multiplier
- 240-260C extrusion temp
- .02-.0325 Pressure Advance (direct drive)
Those are really the most important factors imo. The rest is even more machine specific due to cooling capabilities, chamber temps, etc.
@@MandicReally I was mainly curious to see where your temps and PA landed compared to mine. Been fine tuning my polymaker asa profile over the past week and I thought the pressure advance was quite high, but it looks like yours is just as high. I've got .967 extrusion multiplier, 255c and .0315 PA. Thanks for the sanity check!
10:33 fiber reinforced polypropylene would be even better choice than ASA/PA it does not soak water at all, has pretty good thermal resistance, isn't worse than ASA in context of UV resistance, superb impact resistance and almost perfect layer adhesion, you'll need to make an FR4 flextplate as well as heat bed that can heat up to 130c, yet it is worth it.
One of my next machine builds is an active chamber heated build for materials like that. So sooner or later I’ll expand material options that far.
@@MandicReally it doesn’t really needs heated build chamber, with 30% of glass fiber it’s shrinking coefficient is lower than ABS one, so passive chamber and FR4 at 130c will do the trick
Sorry, point of that was that the heated chamber machine will also have a bed capable of those temps. I could probably swap thermal fuses on my current 2.4 but the next build I already intended to setup with a bed capable of 130-140C.
@@MandicReally well, 3M acrylic adhesive used by keenovo is rated for 200c in load “for hours”(don’t really know how much is it) but in my case I’ve just removed it completely and applied heater to aluminum plate with automotive 280c gasket rtv silicone(abro) and swapped thermal fuse to 165c so it won’t loose adhesion until I’ll intentionally scrape it off :)
Eyy welcome to Portland 🎉
I'm 2 hours from Portland. Hope the move is smooth!
I live 2 hours East of Portland. Small world.
I'm curious why you teardropped the holes. I make a lot of my own parts this way too but the concept of teardropped holes is different to md
When holes are oriented on the vertical plane (z axis) while in print orientation, they can have trouble bridging or drooping into the hole. A tear drop gives a better and more printable angle to make the holes turn out smoother and with less material sagging into the hole bore. Sometimes that sag can cause the bore to be smaller, or more often it can cause minor artifacts at that layer height from the nozzle colliding with the sagging bits at the top of the hole. Hope that makes sense.
@MandicReally makes perfect sense thanks man, I will have to start integrating that into mine now. Love your channels mate found you as the hod rod hippy. Keen to see the ratrig arrive soon.
@@MandicReally that's pretty cool, where did you pick that up?? what % infill are you using for ASA?? I've been using PC w/ carbon fiber, kinda cool, just need the harder material nozzle to handle the abrasive characteristic of the CF. Great video, thanks for sharing with us.
What extruder is that?
That is the "ProtoXtruder 2.0" by nhchiu: www.printables.com/model/822947-protoxtruder-20
@@MandicReally Thanks! And you like it? I'm an orbiter fan but this looks like a nice option.
I would suggest using HT-PLA. Good ones ( like the stuff from Proto-Pasta) is safe to 140-150 C, and there’s no way anything in a car gets this hot, except if it’s burning down 😁😉
Those materials require heat treatment to achieve those temperature ranges. To my knowledge that carries the possibility of dimensionality changing. Designing for that would be difficult.
When ASA (which is cheaper) is easy to print, and also UV stable. HTPLA doesn’t have that going for it. Cars are exposed to the sun a lot.
@@MandicReally you‘re wrong (or let’s say: your informations are outdated) - check the pla i mentioned above as an example, no heat treatment necessary. It’s quite cool we have these possibilities these days 😉
Good luck in Portland.
Thanks, we are looking forward to the change of scenery.
yooooooooooooo omg!!!!🙏🙏🙏🙏 G R E A T V I D E O !!! you it....