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I am sorry you find the audio poor- but it is not what I get when listening to it. Set to ~70% volume, it is quite clear. Perhaps you have some issue at your end? Is it only this video, or also on others I have done? I am not using the internal mic on my camera ( Canon EOS70D with EF24-105L lens) but an attached microphone. To me, this improved the audio; but if you find it still a problem I am happy to take up your kind offer of a wireless mic.

Você é muito bem-vindo.

Happy is what it is all about! Wish I had the skill...

@@SirBenJamin_ Most honing guides run on the surface of the stone, so you have to keep turning the stone around. And cannot use irons wider than the stone. And tend not to use the edges, because of the roller action. With this, you use >90% (depending on blade width). Turn the stone around and it becomes all of it. I certainly find I am using more of the stone. Circular motion for roughing, sideways for the final edge. It is not like a windscreen wiper, because you have two degrees of freedom. Mercedes used to have wipers with a camming action to reach the corners- same idea, but more so.

@@Tensquaremetreworkshop What I meant was that if you were to use a water stone, with your design, you would definitely see deeper wear patterns than with a traditional honing guide where it's much more evenly spread out. However, I still think yours would work better in terms of cutting efficiently as you can do the figure of 8 and at a faster rate (much like how you would do it by hand).

@@SirBenJamin_ Yes, the idea is to have all the freedom of hand honing, but with the support that prevents the angle changing. I find that, for me, I use more of the area of the stone than when using a conventional jig. Such a jig, that uses a roller, only moves in one direction (forward and back) and it is difficult to use the sides of the stone's surface. Of course, the initial shaping of the chisel/iron is done with a diamond stone, where it is not important. I then use a 6000 ceramic stone, and use moving circles, traversing almost the whole area of the stone. Then it is the 16000 grit, which takes little time. This is the only stone needed for later micro-bevel sharpening, and I find sweeping strokes give the best finish (I have looked under high magnification). Because the jig is very accurate, I can do the secondary bevel at +1/2deg, and later a tertiary bevel at +1deg. I am still experimenting with this, to find the optimum for number of re-sharpenings before the primary bevel needs to be reset (back to 1000 diamond for this).

Actually, there is a lot of 'finger feel' involved. Especially with plane irons, where you often want the slightest of bevels across the blade. I feel sure that, if a true automated sharpener had been developed, we would not need to perform so much work on brand new tools- they would come sharpened. In practice, after the initial back flattening and front angle establishment, the re-sharpening by micro-bevel just takes a few seconds. Especially when you are not trying to get the angle by 'feel'.

I do not own any high-end tools such as Veritas or Lie-Nielsen, but based on reviews, they are ready for use straight out of the box, which suggests that sharpening is already well-automated. Perhaps the reason high-end manufacturers do not ship blades sharpened to the maximum is that the finest level of sharpening is likely to be compromised during shipping and handling. Regarding 'finger feel,' a bolt with a spring could perhaps be employed to adjust the tension and pressure according to the user's preference. These are just random thoughts, given your previous inventions, I’m confident you can come up with a much better idea than I could. Thank you for the video, by the way. Initially, I thought you were making something similar to knife sharpening jigs, but as usual, you’ve pleasantly surprised everyone by taking it to another level.

@@alfgordon1741 Thanks! Yes, I believe high end brands come sharpened, but at least some of them claim hand sharpened. The back flattening could certainly be automated- but given that you only do that once, and I have enough chisels and planes to 'see me out', I do not intend designing that! Not sure why manufacturers do not do it- I guess the majority of chisels are never properly sharpened. Our local Men's Shed gets lots donated- and I have not found a well sharpened one amongst them...

Thanks! Yes, the plane irons pass into the swing-out at the left, which is why there are a couple of gaps. It was easier than I thought it was going to be though- no major conflicts.

I bought mine from RS components. These connectors are not cheap- but they are the smallest for the rating that I could find. Being able to fit them into a normal gland space makes fitting so much easier.

@@Tensquaremetreworkshop thank you!

Thanks- let me know how it goes.

You may be right- but it could be quite long. Different people are interested in different aspects, so choosing the content to remove is a problem. I try to keep videos short (I ruthlessly cut out pauses etc) as I do not want to steal my viewers time. Might have a go at a 'compilation' version though... thanks!

@@Tensquaremetreworkshop yeah I understand. Just a thought. The build deserves not views is what I am trying to say. A compilation or speed through would advertise the longer sections really well.

@@startmaking1 I appreciate your viewpoint. Getting folks to look at your efforts is a problem- there is a lot of luck involved in having the 'algorithms' promote what you do. I dabble in a lot of areas (metalwork, woodwork, electronics/computing etc) that means it is not easy to categorize- most successful channels have a single theme. Having said that, I do this because I enjoy it; I have no desire to create a business or even make money from my posts. I get enough views t tell me that I am not wasting my time... More would be nice, but it will not dictate what I do.

@Tensquaremetreworkshop great attitude Mike. It's easy to get sucked into wanting more. And you are right, yt struggles if you don't sit in a handy pigeon hole.

The output pin for the speed signal on the Arduino is pin 11 - but of course you can change this in the header files. The connection to the VFD depends on which one you are using- there will be a terminal for the analog speed input and another for 'spindle on' - see the manual for the VFD.

I engraved the end of rod, and then turned off the disc because it suited the material I had to hand. If I were doing it from scratch, I would use slices of bone (available on ebay etc) first engrave and then cut into discs all on a CNC mill. This avoids needing a lathe, and would probably be quicker. Personally, the last thing I want in retirement is a business, but there are others will CNC machines that offer cutting services. An alternative (if one is not fussy about the materials used) is to 3D print them. Of course, I scratch-built the CNC machine I used for these discs (see elsewhere on this channel) so that is one route...

Not sure of the weight, but the Studley apparently weighed 156lbs (71Kg)fully loaded, so it is likely to be similar. It holds a lot, useful in my small workshop.

Yes, all the parts are available, usually Amazon. For metal, I use either Metals4U or Rapid Metals. The stop blocks can be made from wood- fabricating them from pieces of ply is the easiest. People used to working in wood tend to shy away from metal- but it can be easy to work, especially aluminium. And it is, of course, more robust. Tracksaws are amazing- both the accuracy and the finish of the cut.

The torch is a propane mapp type off Amazon. I used an extender hose to convert it to using a larger propane cylinder (domestic heater type). I use 'everflux' brazing flux and either brazing rods or silver solder depending on the part. On brass, you cannot see the join (if you have cleaned it up well) and fabricating saves a lot of material. For small jobs a mapp can setup will do fine. I think more people could usefully use brazing- I might do a video on it...

@@Tensquaremetreworkshop that's really useful, thanks. Would like to see that video

Thanks! But if you think this is OCD, check out my current project- the Dudley tool chest. Multi-layer, ebony and mother-of-pearl decoration...

The angle is made to be around 2mm away from the blade. The splinter-guard material is then cut by the blade, the same as on the track.

@@Tensquaremetreworkshop Thank you. I appreciate the answer. I am off to buy some materials to get this done.

Thanks!

Me too!

Thanks! I have enjoyed building it. Time consuming, but lots of problems to solve. So many ways to do the same thing...

Thanks!

Yes, clamping could be arranged- or a jig that guided the saw blade. But at some point it stops being hand woodworking. A matter of judgement, of course. But this jig ‘upgrade' should not cross anyone's threshold… I certainly find it a lot easier to use.

@@Tensquaremetreworkshop I was referring more to jigs like the dove tail alignment boards that have been around since forever :)

@@SirBenJamin_ Yes, I know. Dovetail cutting ranges from entirely hand and eye to 'press the button' CNC. Many enjoy the making of projects 'by hand'- although they may disagree about how many aids are acceptable. Marking gauges? few would object. A hand held gauge such as this? A small step. Complete dovetail alignment jigs? Suggest it and then step back smartly... Personally, I like both. I will cut some wood joints on my milling machine, because I like the precision. But I also like making dovetails with hand tools, there is a satisfaction in developing skills. There is no 'right' answer- we do these things for pleasure, and if that is working nothing else matters.

@@Tensquaremetreworkshop You might have a different understanding of what a dovetail alignment jig is. It does not take the skill out of it. It just holds things in place at right angles, avoiding the issue you had

@@SirBenJamin_ I have seen several dovetail alignment boards, and none of them gave the lateral shift to allow for saw kerf. Of course they could- but then the alignment of the front faces (on all the ones I have seen) is still a manual one. Whilst holding the top board against the fence. IMHO using a making knife is inferior to using a saw blade to mark the position- the saw gives a slot that the dovetail saw just drops into, very accurate. A dovetail board, with a shim against the fence ( for half of the cuts), and a top clamp, would give and hold alignment. But if you want to reference off either side (and with a four cornered structure you would want to use one face, meaning two joints referenced from each side) you need a second fence or multiple shims. And it is large. Mine fits into the pocket. This was never meant to be the 'ultimate' jig- just an improvement on the 'shawn shim' that is widely used. It works for me.

Great- let me know how it goes!

That's right! It shifts the top workpiece left or right by the thickness (kerf) of the blade, so the final tails and pins with be a close fit. Being L shaped, it also ensures that the top part does not move forward or back during cutting. This way of making dovetails removes a lot of the errors of just using a marking knife- you are cutting the pins to match the actual tails, rather than where they should be... It is a method championed by Rob Cosman- but my shim is both (much) cheaper and more functional than the one he uses.

No plastic allowed, so mainly wood and metal. Plus ebony, mother of pearl, abalone, tortoiceshell…

Thanks! I appreciate that.

Perfectly sensible question from anyone not familiar with milling. The answer is that the part is sitting on a pair of parallels- accurately ground blocks of steel that set both ends at the same height. You can see one of them at the point in the video that you reference- sitting against the fixed jaw. There is another at the moving jaw end. I refer to using parallels in early videos, and there are great tutorials on YT explaining the sequence of events one has to plan to achieve accurate parts. A mill has a whole infrastructure of accessories such as these- almost no end to the toys one can collect...

Many thanks!

There are a number of ways it could be done. Whatever route were chosen, the impeller (or compressor) would need to be designed for the application. Driving it could either be a belt driven conventional induction motor (to increase the rpm), or a direct drive spindle type motor. For simplicity, I prefer the latter. The barrier to OD systems is the impeller- unless someone knows a suitable model? I have searched the net for such a product...