@@maxpalm7862 No major projects yet… Programming is pretty straightforward, the TFT libraries are fairly good. I know I have been programming for nearly 50 years, but the tools these days make it painless.
I did consider it- but precision is not needed for this motion; you are just passing it over the cutter. It would require more complex mounting, and a cable to drive the stepper. There are power feed accessories available for router tables, I may design one of these to do the job.
@@Tensquaremetreworkshop ah, that was my kneejerk reaction to digital technology :) I figured you could drive it from an extension to your existing code. I'll be interested in seeing what your solution is if you go down some powerfeed route... thanks for your reply
@@drmvh What inspired me to build this is the realization that there is a 'middle way' between manually adjusting machines and full CNC. For the hobbyist, CNC is useful when the machining is difficult to do manually- such as carving letters. For one-offs, the programming overhead is often not justified otherwise. Digitally adjusted machines take away the tedium of measuring, but requires no 'desk work' to design the function. Just like almost all metalworking machinery now have DROs (digital read-out) fitted, woodworking tools can benefit too. Then it is a choice of turning a dial or keypress entry. For a system that has multi-step functions (such as cutting joints on this machine) keypress selection is easier- we are all used to graphical interfaces now.
True- but that is the case with manual measurement too. I considered a system that detects centre point, and you enter the bit diameter, but rotating the cutter to square works well- especially if you do it when you insert the bit! The distraction of filming means you do not always follow the steps in a sensible manner... Getting it within 5deg is quite easy, and the max error on a 10mm cutter would be less than .02mm. Good enough for me.
Great project! This is the Ultimate Router Table. I watch your router master vedioes many times, but still can't understand how the zero plate connect to this system. Could you tell more detail about this?
The zero plate connects to the same line as the limit switches. So, when I zero, it will stop on either the zero plate or the limit switch- but it will meet the zero switch first, if it is in position. I use a single line for these to reduce the number of cores that I need in the cable from the controller- and it also makes the code simpler.
Hi. This is such an inspiring project. I'm still very curious about how the zero plate actually works. Are you putting voltage on the block and then checking for a closed circuit? If so; how do you make sure there is proper ground on the router bit? Most DIY solutions I see use an alligator clip directly on the router/milling bit. Thanks a bunch.@@Tensquaremetreworkshop
@@joostplas I use a lead attached to my limit switch input ( it is common to bit lift limit and fence limit because which is known by what is being moved). The router is earthed, and that is good enough, on my router, to earth the bit. So, yes, touching the plate pulls down the input line, and the micro sets that position to zero.
Excellent idea and a brilliant product name!
Thanks- I liked the play on words; just have to get people to pronounce it correctly...
Great product! Looks like a joy to use
Certainly easier than having to manually adjust bit and fence for every cut. Really glad I made it.
@@Tensquaremetreworkshop have you used it for any project yet and did you code the arduino yourself?
The interface looks really involved
@@maxpalm7862 No major projects yet… Programming is pretty straightforward, the TFT libraries are fairly good. I know I have been programming for nearly 50 years, but the tools these days make it painless.
This is an awesome project Mike!
Thanks!
Great, I'm fairly sure you have been thinking about putting a stepper drive on the linear rail mounted part, hope we'll see that as well :)
I did consider it- but precision is not needed for this motion; you are just passing it over the cutter. It would require more complex mounting, and a cable to drive the stepper. There are power feed accessories available for router tables, I may design one of these to do the job.
@@Tensquaremetreworkshop ah, that was my kneejerk reaction to digital technology :) I figured you could drive it from an extension to your existing code. I'll be interested in seeing what your solution is if you go down some powerfeed route... thanks for your reply
@@drmvh What inspired me to build this is the realization that there is a 'middle way' between manually adjusting machines and full CNC. For the hobbyist, CNC is useful when the machining is difficult to do manually- such as carving letters. For one-offs, the programming overhead is often not justified otherwise. Digitally adjusted machines take away the tedium of measuring, but requires no 'desk work' to design the function. Just like almost all metalworking machinery now have DROs (digital read-out) fitted, woodworking tools can benefit too. Then it is a choice of turning a dial or keypress entry. For a system that has multi-step functions (such as cutting joints on this machine) keypress selection is easier- we are all used to graphical interfaces now.
Excellent little project. I guess the inaccurate variable in this is having to rotate the bit to get the blade to align to its furthest extents
True- but that is the case with manual measurement too. I considered a system that detects centre point, and you enter the bit diameter, but rotating the cutter to square works well- especially if you do it when you insert the bit! The distraction of filming means you do not always follow the steps in a sensible manner...
Getting it within 5deg is quite easy, and the max error on a 10mm cutter would be less than .02mm. Good enough for me.
Great project! This is the Ultimate Router Table. I watch your router master vedioes many times, but still can't understand how the zero plate connect to this system. Could you tell more detail about this?
The zero plate connects to the same line as the limit switches. So, when I zero, it will stop on either the zero plate or the limit switch- but it will meet the zero switch first, if it is in position. I use a single line for these to reduce the number of cores that I need in the cable from the controller- and it also makes the code simpler.
Hi. This is such an inspiring project. I'm still very curious about how the zero plate actually works. Are you putting voltage on the block and then checking for a closed circuit? If so; how do you make sure there is proper ground on the router bit? Most DIY solutions I see use an alligator clip directly on the router/milling bit.
Thanks a bunch.@@Tensquaremetreworkshop
@@joostplas I use a lead attached to my limit switch input ( it is common to bit lift limit and fence limit because which is known by what is being moved). The router is earthed, and that is good enough, on my router, to earth the bit. So, yes, touching the plate pulls down the input line, and the micro sets that position to zero.
Thanks for the reply! I'll try a similar setup on my router. Thanks again for the inspiration. @@Tensquaremetreworkshop