I am always careful to have no part of me in line with the end, no matter how far away. The recoil on nails this size (23ga x 12mm) is very low (cannot detect it) so unintentional movement is unlikely.
Nice job Mike. For years I've struggled with trying to find the perfect plastic bins to hold and organize things but the same issues you highlighted always pop up. While building them does involve a time investment, it lets you build them to your exact needs, as you mentioned. Excellent video.
Youcould also consider using plastic on one side lf the wooden boxes, to have the transparency, along with the benefits of the wood / plywood. Either the nails would go through and hold them, or holes can be drilled or burned in.
Mike, I was looking a vid about modifying/replacing the draw bar on your round column to eliminate the pounding. I couldn't follow when you were talking about cross piece at the bottom of the draw bar. You didn't say it directly, but it seems like your mod will only work if the mill has the opening in the quill shaft. It appears the cross piece would need to be placed in the opening, across the draw bar's path, then insert the draw bar from the bottom. You didn't show inserting the draw bar, so I'm guessing; am I correct? Thanks, GeoD
If you look at the video at around 1:48, you will see the floating cross piece that runs on the draw bar. There is sufficient space (on this type of mill) for this to pass through from the bottom, and bear on the upper surface of the cross slot. So, the drawbar is inserted from the bottom and the top nuts attached (there are lock nuts both sides of the square section at the top, preventing it 'unwinding' in either direction). In operation, the drawbar cannot move (other than a small float) in either direction- the top nut stops it moving down, and the cross piece stops it moving up. Mills without a drift space will need a different solution- but any constriction anywhere along the drawbar space can be used in a similar way.
@@Tensquaremetreworkshop Thanks, for the qck reply. It's what I surmised. My mill doesn't have a drift space, I'll have scratch my head & see if something else will work. I think my biggest challenge might be getting the mill head high enough to insert the draw from the bttm. Of course, I decided just a couple of weeks ago to anchor the lifting gear down to the column to restrict movement, so I can't easily rotate the head to clear the tables. Well, at least I haven't taken the next step & fab'd a guide rail assy, too. I'm in the midst of adding a power lift motor right now; my old shoulders can't handle manually cranking that heavy azz head. I did go to an ER32 collet on an R8 shaft. It's early, yet, but I think once I get it dialed in, I don't think I'll have to move the head very often. I have an ER32 on my small lathe & drill press, the ER32 on the mill should do everything I want it to. I really like having one on my drill press, it only cost ~$35.00 US; I accidentally found an ER32 chuck w/ a Jacobs taper on eBay. It increased my chuck capacity to 22 mm & reduce the TRI on the drill press to virtually zero. Changing drill bits in the collet is not the trouble I was worried it might be. The upgrade allows me to do precision ops you'd never think possible w/ a drill press. Along as there's no radial force it works brilliantly. Thanks, again, at the min, your vid will be the basis for me conjuring up a fixed draw bar; something I definitely need/want. Regards, GeoD
@@georgedennison3338 Yes, I rarely change my collet for a chuck just for a couple of drills- but more often now my drawbar is captive. And, of course, fitting a fly-cutter etc, needs a change. I am not familiar with the R8 details, there may be a diameter size change up the shaft against which a collar could work.
Holy moly, you really need to trust your nail gun kung fu with your thumb that close… 😳
Good job on the box though!
I am always careful to have no part of me in line with the end, no matter how far away. The recoil on nails this size (23ga x 12mm) is very low (cannot detect it) so unintentional movement is unlikely.
Nice job Mike. For years I've struggled with trying to find the perfect plastic bins to hold and organize things but the same issues you highlighted always pop up. While building them does involve a time investment, it lets you build them to your exact needs, as you mentioned.
Excellent video.
Thanks! Surprising how quickly you can build them if you do several at once.
Beats plastic anyday day Mike. Thanks.
Youcould also consider using plastic on one side lf the wooden boxes, to have the transparency, along with the benefits of the wood / plywood. Either the nails would go through and hold them, or holes can be drilled or burned in.
@@calinfx270 Good idea!
I approve.
Mike, I was looking a vid about modifying/replacing the draw bar on your round column to eliminate the pounding.
I couldn't follow when you were talking about cross piece at the bottom of the draw bar.
You didn't say it directly, but it seems like your mod will only work if the mill has the opening in the quill shaft.
It appears the cross piece would need to be placed in the opening, across the draw bar's path, then insert the draw bar from the bottom.
You didn't show inserting the draw bar, so I'm guessing; am I correct?
Thanks,
GeoD
If you look at the video at around 1:48, you will see the floating cross piece that runs on the draw bar. There is sufficient space (on this type of mill) for this to pass through from the bottom, and bear on the upper surface of the cross slot. So, the drawbar is inserted from the bottom and the top nuts attached (there are lock nuts both sides of the square section at the top, preventing it 'unwinding' in either direction). In operation, the drawbar cannot move (other than a small float) in either direction- the top nut stops it moving down, and the cross piece stops it moving up.
Mills without a drift space will need a different solution- but any constriction anywhere along the drawbar space can be used in a similar way.
@@Tensquaremetreworkshop Thanks, for the qck reply.
It's what I surmised. My mill doesn't have a drift space, I'll have scratch my head & see if something else will work.
I think my biggest challenge might be getting the mill head high enough to insert the draw from the bttm.
Of course, I decided just a couple of weeks ago to anchor the lifting gear down to the column to restrict movement, so I can't easily rotate the head to clear the tables.
Well, at least I haven't taken the next step & fab'd a guide rail assy, too.
I'm in the midst of adding a power lift motor right now; my old shoulders can't handle manually cranking that heavy azz head.
I did go to an ER32 collet on an R8 shaft. It's early, yet, but I think once I get it dialed in, I don't think I'll have to move the head very often.
I have an ER32 on my small lathe & drill press, the ER32 on the mill should do everything I want it to.
I really like having one on my drill press, it only cost ~$35.00 US; I accidentally found an ER32 chuck w/ a Jacobs taper on eBay.
It increased my chuck capacity to 22 mm & reduce the TRI on the drill press to virtually zero. Changing drill bits in the collet is not the trouble I was worried it might be. The upgrade allows me to do precision ops you'd never think possible w/ a drill press.
Along as there's no radial force it works brilliantly.
Thanks, again, at the min, your vid will be the basis for me conjuring up a fixed draw bar; something I definitely need/want.
Regards,
GeoD
@@georgedennison3338 Yes, I rarely change my collet for a chuck just for a couple of drills- but more often now my drawbar is captive. And, of course, fitting a fly-cutter etc, needs a change.
I am not familiar with the R8 details, there may be a diameter size change up the shaft against which a collar could work.
What nail gun are you using?
It is a cheap 23ga one from Amazon - make is 'Hardware World', but they are generic. Works very well!