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Btw, the sharper your knife, the less crying you will do on a strong onion.

So as a person who is obsessed with having the sharpest knife possible. I bought a cheap Walmart hatchet and used the Shapton glass-stone from 400-30000 grit. Using every stone . I did not skip a single grit. No surprise, it was sharper than a scalpel and way too sharp for a hatchet. So, next I repeated the process on my Henkel pro twin, then into my hunting knives etc. I will never buy a different stone. It's worth every penny. Now don't waste your time on 16,000 or 30,000 on your hunting knife unless you're as obsessed as me. Fyi, flatten your stones regularly

Pro tip: speak up!! 😊 Great info though!

Thanks Mate, cheers from New Zealand

How is it holding up?

Oh, do I need a wobbly table for this kind of sharpness? Sorry, just kidding. The essence is to keep the angle constant (whatever it is), and to have a good (aggresive biting) sharpening stone. But still the most important above any gear: a good steady, controlled and precise moving hand! Can you please clone your hand for us? 😅

Great video! very informative

What knife is that?

I can't thank you enough.

I don't know why, but it was really bugging me not being able to see his face. It's like I'm watching Wilson W.Wilsons grandson.

I don’t think y’all understand how hard it is to cut paper towel 💀 it’s actually almost impossible it requires a unbelievable sharp edge

NOT a Sharpie

What? 420HC doesn't have the toughness of 1095 and 1095 doesn't have the toughness of 3V. 420HC cheap steel not really great at anything besides being stainless and cheap.

Wtf this dude talk so weird for, all his effort goes into sounding gay af, BRO BE yourself, cause that ain't it

Awesome serie! Great work

I wonder if the TSProf Pro Hunter can handle these?

Can you use this technique on a honi g rod

Somebody finally said it.

I want to know how to use a honing rod

I find my beloved kitchen knives only need the occasional touching up with an 800 grit diamond stone and stropped on a leather honing block, with 2 micron diamond paste, to get hair-whittling sharpness every time. I judge the angle by rocking the edge on the stone first, until I feel the edge's flat spot against the stone, then increase the angle another degree up. It's a skill like any other, it involve lots of practice that ultimately rewards you with impressively sharp knives. I sharpen all my own drill bits, scissors, lawn mower blades and chisels too, saving me a load of money in the process. 👍😉

Thanks friend

Great video! I was already doing this but I wasn't quite sure if it was the correct way. Thanks for showing exactly what to do.

i have like 30+ stones, never used an ark. just wonder do they actually have any practical utility that you can define? I mean, I can get edges that blow through free hanging paper towels off a single sheet of cheapo sandpaper even in very course grits like under 100. I choose to use stones like the 400 chosera because it's more enjoyable. For finishing stones I have many but I find that naniwa super stones consistently deliver the best results. I can understand some aspects of say Japanese natural stones because of the unique contrasting finishes they leave on the bevels of traditional Japanese knives. It's a very unique aesthetic that is otherwise difficult to replicate. You can get close with various Japanese soaking stones but still. That seems like a point of defined practical utility. ie okay I have/need this jnat in order to get a true kasumi finish. I just don't understand what makes arks anything more than an obsolete though sentimental relic of older times. teach me. Other than "it's cool" or "i like it" why should someone get an ark stone?

Have you had a chance to try it out? I recently bought one but haven’t tried it yet.

This looks like a 6"×2" DMT stone. If so, where did you get those clip on, non slip feet from?

Thanks for the video! If I use my leather strop every 2 months do I need to wipe or wash off the old paste first? Or can I leave the old compound on the strap?

Thanks. Most sharpening videos I've watched don't address this issue.

I imagine that plastic cutting board will dull that thing very quickly. many high edge retention steels were create specifically for the plastics industry because plastic is such an abrasive material. And that white color, usually what they use to make plastic look like that is titanium dioxide. Quite abrasive stuff on its own. plastic cutting boards are the bane of keen edges. Id avoid anything other than the Japanese soft rubber boards or wood... basically any wood, even some of the least suitable ones they use are better than most other things. end grain vs edge makes zero measurable difference, that's another myth. different kinds of woods for sure do make a difference. For instance some common examples in the US, maple will have a nice forgiving feel under the edge and dulls the edge very slowly. but maple requires quite a bit of work to maintain and whatnot. Teak is will dull a bit more but still have a good feel but it requires almost no upkeep. Those cheaper boards made from acadia as they call it will feel quite hard and will dull by abrasion at about twice the rate of the maple. etc. I tried one of those American "sanituff" rubber boards. It was so bad that I now use it as dulling brick. absolute trash.

try slicing the paper towel without holding it under tension like you did. let it hang freely. that's my baseline for a keen edge on a kitchen knife. you really need to be properly apexed in order to do this. if you want to make it even harder, wet the towel then try it. and only use the softer consumer grade paper towels which are soft and cloth like and dont have any directional grains. when i first started and didnt know what I was doing I thought shaving was the baseline, that was the goal. Now I'd consider that quite dull.

yes, the fact is that sharpening isn't just about grinding, abrasion, etc. it's about apex formation and burr removal which means you can have steels that are easy to grind yet difficult to sharpen and likewise steels which are difficult to grind yet easy to sharpen. there are many factors involved including the steel and how it's actually treated, as well as the abrasives and methods used. machineability in steel basically refers to this, mostly abrasion resistance, but also carbide quantity and type as well as the grain structure. Finer grained steels will grind more efficiently obviously for instance. Generally softer steel is easy to grind yet more difficult to sharpen. zdp189 is an example of steel that is difficult to grind yet very easy to sharpen.

i get great results off nothing more than a single sheet of dollar store 80 sandpaper and could reuse the same sheet for years and continue to get great results. no doubt better than most schlubs get from their fancy fixed systems. What kind of results? Like push cut through a free hanging soft consumer grade paper towel with ease results. But thats no fun, hence 40 stones later... all it takes to get great results is some effort. apply yourself. it's not black magic. knife bros over complicate and make it seem so much more than it is. a child could learn how to use a whetstone in an afternoon. As far as learning skills there really isn't much that could be easier or less effort. "oh it's so hard." Ok guy. Try learning how to play jazz music or any music on any instrument. Try learning a new language. Those are skills that are actually difficult. Knife sharpening or any sharpening is a "joke" it's a cakewalk. I'm convinced all these guys that make it seem so difficult have never actually tried it. Like for real. They mess around aimlessly for 3 minutes then get bored or frustrated then leave comments blown away by some video where a guy gets mediocre results like it's black magic saying some dumb shit like "I've been doing this for 80 years and I learned something." Okay dude, sure thing but you're only 16 years old so how's that? Idk why this stuff makes me irrationally angry or why I love to rant about it but thanks for giving me the opportunity to do so. I've never actually used an arkansas stone. I don't know much about them but I thought there were basically obsolete relics with little to no actual utility in the modern world with modern abrasives. What I understood was that they're not a great abrasive and do a lot of burnishing.

Just a tip an ole school fella taught me a long time ago: if you’re new to sharpening/stropping or just having trouble and havent got the muscle memory down for the angle to hold the blade yet, you can mark the micro bevel on both sides of the blade and make a couple passes and check to see if the marker is wearing off as it should to know if you’re holding it at the correct angle, or be able to tell if you should lower or steepen your angle 👌🏻 oh and the marker wont mess up your strop or stone or whatever you’re using. Most likely wont even be visible

Do you really need to strop when you have a 30,000 stone?

Nice job! They do call them wet stones for a reason tho. 😉

if my stropping compound is around 3k grit, and my finishing stone is 6k grit (i use a naniwa king 1000/6000) , is it worth it to strop the knife on a leather thingy, or should i just do it on my finishing stone?

I think it’s cool you’re sharpening the Sextoblade type disposable blade. I tried it once without much luck but I didn’t try an Ark.

Nice Mate!

From 2500 to 30000 only with one of the best stainless

You're not supposed to strop a shavette-style straight razor, bro... They use replaceable blades. Also, your stropping is terrible. You're supposed to flip and roll on the spine so the blade never loses contact with the strop. Also, especially with a narrow strop like yours, you're actually supposed to go in an X-pattern. Not up and down...

Never stop being yourself.

Wow, wouldn't want to get hit by that

Wicked edge!

I still prefer using that rubbery guide for cold chisels. Sharpening knives is easy for me.

Thank you!

That forward pressure towards the edge is called torque/torsion by twisting at the tang. No downward pressure on spine of razor but too much torque and spine can lift and round an edge. Lighten up on torque as you progress in lap count and finish with weight of blade only with finally no pressure/torgue. All while keeping your strop held taut firm with little to no slack or give.

I bought a similar diamond plate recently never having freehanded before in my life and sharpened up a Victorinox paring knife with decent results for a first time. It was definitely much faster than setting up my guided sharpener.

Great camera work

Nice video - I use a Arkansas stone I got at a garage sale in 80's , shes still kickin , BUT one thing is on my D2 knives these stones wont work or you have to be a reallly good sharpener , as im watching this video im sharpening my d2 on Arkansas hard stone and nothing is happening 😆 been 15 mins already , at my skill level I need diamond stone to sharpen it . But for my AUS8 knives no problem it works fine. I imagine on something like magnacut or ZDP-189 it would take years to sharpen

Put the block down not safe . Use water to keep cool. Not supposed to let it get hot it changes the blade strength hint why they use small stone and not a grinder

Thank you so much!!! I was losing my shit trying to figure out why I couldn’t raise a burr on the tip of my knife. Your method instantly worked!