Sharpening HAP40 Gyuto with Shapton Glass Stone 7 Kit
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- Опубликовано: 2 мар 2023
- Sharpening some of the highest quality knives with some of the highest quality sharpening stones is a blessing! In this video, I sharpen a HAP40 steel Gyuto with my new Shapton Glass Stone 7 Kit. Watch and see how beautiful the edge comes up on this gorgeous blade!
I ordered these stones from sharpeningsupplies.com.
Here is the link for this kit:
www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Sh...
I borrowed this knife from a friend and have no clue what the exact model is, so I can't put a link for it.
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For comprehensive sharpening tutorials, here are some links to my other videos:
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Best Knife Sharpening Hack?
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My 3-step sharpening process!
• My 3-step sharpening p...
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#knife #knifesharpening #sharpening #offthestone
Stay tuned because I’ve started a series of 30 different videos explaining different techniques for knife sharpening. These videos will be packed with tons of different knife sharpening hacks that will help you to master sharpening and enjoy it! Most importantly, your knives will cut efficiently for the tasks at hand!
Thanks for watching and God bless!
Just what I like to see on all my knives; a mirror finish. Practice makes perfect!
Nothing prettier!
You sharpen like a pro. Nice stones. That knife cuts like butter. Thanks for sharing. 🔪👊
Thanks for all of your words of encouragement, Eddlemon! I am very impressed with these stones and that blade is one of my favorites. Too bad I gotta give it back to its owner 😝
Love this video!
Thank you!!
Wicked edge!
From 2500 to 30000 only with one of the best stainless
Do you really need to strop when you have a 30,000 stone?
So as a person who is obsessed with having the sharpest knife possible. I bought a cheap Walmart hatchet and used the Shapton glass-stone from 400-30000 grit. Using every stone . I did not skip a single grit.
No surprise, it was sharper than a scalpel and way too sharp for a hatchet.
So, next I repeated the process on my Henkel pro twin, then into my hunting knives etc.
I will never buy a different stone. It's worth every penny. Now don't waste your time on 16,000 or 30,000 on your hunting knife unless you're as obsessed as me.
Fyi, flatten your stones regularly
I have somewhat of an obsession with the edge on my knives. You caused me to cringe watching you scrape your work to the side with your edge. May I recommend scraping with the back or spine of the blade? It isn't a hard habit to get into and I am sure you won't have to go to the strop or stone as often. Thanks for the video.
HAP40 is cobalt high speed tool steel that CKTG, which is a massive US based reseller of Japanese cutlery, decided to get behind. Because they move so much product they have a lot of pull. That's basically the only reason any kitchen knives exist in this steel. I have no clue why they selected this steel but I have some theories, including the fact that Japan isn't always willing to export the stuff you'd actually want in the form of raw materials, they save the good stuff for the domestic market to use and then sell internationally as completed products. It has some interesting properties but it's been vastly oversold by those promoting it as "voodoo steel." It's not a bad steel any means but the reality is steel choices in kitchen knives only matter so much in the first place, it's mostly just marketing. Everything else tends to matters more. The main issue with this steel aside from the obvious which is the cobalt content is the fact it's vanadium makes it not really well suited to be maintained by traditional abrasives including the ceramic alumina stones you've got there. It's unique because of it's ability to get very hard, 65+ rc, without being a true high carbide steel. Most tool steels that get to 67+ rc tend to be higher carbide. Anyway it's ability to be maintained with normal stones has been oversold. It's "edge retention" has also been oversold. In reality this steel has less carbon content than even R2 and in reality if you normalize for hardness you will find that R2 in fact has slightly better edge retention. But because R2, which is a modern Japanese stainless steel intended for use in cutlery, is almost always at a target hardness of 63 rc and hap40 is typically 65+ rc, it picks up an extra 5% or so. Those who compare it's "edge retention" to zdp189 are either liars or more likely have no clue what they're talking about. zdp not only has VASTLY more edge retention, it's also got better machinability meaning it's easier to grind and that comes down to the carbide type because while it's about as high carbide as steel can get it only contains chromium carbides, which means it can easily be sharpened with regular whetstones and it also easily takes a mirror polish. Speaking of it also sharpens very well/easily. Anyway I tend to rant excessively and could easily go on for another several paragraphs so I'll just leave it there without touching on other aspects like corrosion or toughness and likelihood of edge failure in thinly ground fine edges on kitchen knives. hap40 is interesting stuff, but in reality it doesn't make any sense for most people and it makes zero sense from like an objective view in terms of steel selection, for instance other steels which are identical minus the cobalt content make better choices, as would m4 steel which is objectively superior to hap40 in every measurable way as a knife steel. Theres a reason this stuff is a niche tiny subsection of the market and no major high volume knife manufacturers will touch it for kitchen knives. But it works for CKTG who can sell it as voodoo and ofc no one else has it so it seems exclusive, etc. Don't get me wrong, it does have good properties in terms of high hardness decent toughness etc. so it's not like it's bad it just unusual and doesnt make a whole lot of sense. I mean if I could choose either an aebl gyoto at 63+ rc or hap40, it's aebl all day every day. I have 2 kitchen knives in hap40, a cktg petty and a sukenari gyoto which is said to be at a target of 68 rc. The cktg I had to regrind myself to make it worth a shit, but maybe that's cuz of the model I choose, idk. Either way it does have various issues aside from being ground much to thick to make any sense for such a steel and other things making it far from perfect. The cladding for instance is super soft and actually not all that stainless. The Sukenari is just fantastic.
Oh my God.. Did you get lost here? There are planty of "steelnerd" forums where your cries will be more appropriate.. Btw i have Sukenari ZDP189 and Yu Kurosaki HAP40 and i choose later one everyday of the week🤷♂️🖕
i think you meant to say "normalized for hardness hap40 ony has SLIGHTLY MORE edge retention than SG2. Which is true. hap40 barely has any better "edge retention" than sg2 if they're at a similar hardness. but because hap40 is normally run at 65+ and sg2 at 63, those few points give it the edge. rockwell C isn't exactly linear. the difference between 60 to 65 rc is greater than the difference between 55 and 60 rc.
Just get you a set of Super vitrified diamond stones or simple ol Resin bonded diamond and don't worry about abrasive type. Hap40 while not being the end all be all steel it's told as is overall a solid high performance steel. Just give me 10v, k390 or s390 and I'm good to go, no need for any other steel in my kitchen wear or my pocket. 10v has because my all around favorite high performance steel as it does everything extremely well and the edge retention is ludicrous. I have recently been testing 2 knives in Hap72 and rex76 (customs that are both a tick over 68 RC) I have been absolutely stunned at the preformance of both, the hap72 being a little chippy at extremely low edge angles, now being stable below 20 inclusive as where the rex76 is doing absolutely amazing at 16 degrees inclusive. I would still take 10v, k390, s390 over either of them in most cases but rex76 is freaking mega impressive in raw edge retention and hap72 ain't far behind it.
As far as your comments about zdp189 you are 100% correct across the board. The people out there saying hap40 has more potential edge life and edge stability then zdp189 are very wrong on the edge retention part but they are right on the stability part. Zdp189 is a all around superior kitchen knife steel to hap40 for the vast majority of users.
If you haven't gotten to play around with hap72 or rex76 give it a try if you get the chance. If you don't own any customs in 10v you should get you one. Once you have worked with 10v it honestly make all other kitchen knife steels basicly unneeded imo. It just does everything great at 65-66rc the edge life is almost hard to believe and apex stability is incredible considering its hardness while being ran at very low angles. I have a custom 10v Nikari that's at 66.2rc edge is at 16 inclusive, finished on Metallic bonded cbn 8k and the knife is still on that same edge for almost 2 years, all it takes is 2 or 3 passes on a hard leather strop with 3um CBN emulsion and the edge is tree topping hair, not quite hair whittling but close and that's after almost 2 years on that edge and that knife is used 5-6 days a week for crisp vegetable cutting. Custom heat treat 10v is absolutely badass steel.
@@EDCandLace suer abrasives change the game but bonded diamonds stone not easy to get and cost a lot. but yes they change the game. enter the world of vanadium steels. Basically everything you said is on the money. k390 is my favorite variant of 10v, which is imo the highest performance knife steel for anything you're not going to use like a damn axe. as far as tinkering with stuff. I'm not generally a big fan of cobalt steels and definitely not for the kitchen. I am however learning more about matrix steels which are mostly a Japanese thing and are fascinating.
Jeffhicks hatespeech against hap40 continues😂 Hap40 is close to M4 that nobody hates. It’s edge retention is solid more ibetter than sg2, but not as good as zdp-189. Diamond and cbd stones makes hap40 easier to sharpen. You get hap40 much cheaper than zdp and other high end pm steels
If its Japanese and its HAP40 its not decently hard but really hard, like second hardest steel on a knife you can get.. Around 66hrc to 67hrc...Only ZDP189 from classic kitchen Japanese kitchen knives gets 1-1.5points harder and of the 2 i choose HAP40 everytime.. Much better toughness and edge stability, easier to sharpen
The 20% chromium in the ZDP is a no go for me. It’s not going to be a fun or quick thing to sharpen.
@@trappenweisseguy27 sorry guys, HAP40 is both harder to grind ie lower machinability and more difficult to sharpen, ie apex formation and burr removal. it also doesn't polish nearly as well. Why? because of what it's made of. On the other hand zdp was actually designed created from the ground up with high end kitchen knives in mind. HAP40 was not. it's a cobalt matrix high seed tool steel.
Yes the other guy is right, hap40 does have better edge stability and toughness then zdp but neither are very tough steels to begin with. However its not easier to sharpen at all. its difficult grind and it's NOTORIOUSLY difficult to sharpen. zdp may be difficult to grind, which it better be considering it has like nearly 1/3 more "edge retention" than hap40, but you dont need special abrasives to do it because unlike hap40 it doesn't have vanadium. its also much easier to sharpen and much more easily takes keener edges with less effort.
What blow my mind is the way some many knife bros talk about things they've never actually had any first hand experience with. And even still if they had, they mistake subjective casual observations as infallible truths of the universe. people can believe whatever they want but facts are facts and i like to stay based in reality just on principle.
as a kitchen knife steel, zdp makes more sense to me than hap40. I think if you wanted to bring in various repurposed tool steels then you could find many better choices than hap40, including even other cobalt matrix steels such as t15, which is weird but okay. tons of various stainless steels would be good too.
Did I mention HAP40 genius ??. I said I wouldn’t want to sharpen a 20% chromium blade. Give me a plain old 60-62 high carbon steel any day. I’m not changing out 5 stones for so called super steels.
We have plenty of steels now that are stable at over 68rc. So no hap40 isn't the second hardest steel. It's typically 65-66rc and in the grand scheme of things 66rc isn't all that hard anymore. We have custom heat treaters running s390 at 68... zmax, rex76/121, hap72, maxamet being ran 69-71rc hell even custom heat treat m4 is now getting up in the 66-68rc while being stable. Also the statement of hap40 or zdp189 being " Notoriously had to sharpen" is false. I free hand sharpen hap40 and zdp189 knives for clients multiple times a week and neither are finicky steels to sharpen. On super vitrified diamond or resin bonded diamond they sharpen up like any other higher RC steel there is nothing harder about sharpening them, so long as the heat treat is good the steels respond very well to stones. If you want a truly difficult steel to sharpen try first gen maxamet before the heat treats got dialed in really well.. then you will understand notoriously difficult to sharpen...
Man, having sharpened a long while, when I hear a knife at the wrong angle (when you were dulling it to be able to demo the stones) it KILLS my ears. A necessary evil in this case, but it hurts my ears and my soul.
Btw, the sharper your knife, the less crying you will do on a strong onion.