Видео

How important is staying under 250g for your build?

@@Mangorille not really at all. I don't care to much.

Just want It to be awesome and the best it can ha ha

It’s just held by hopes and dreams (friction fit). I used some cap head screws on the naked case so that the o3 can’t eject. Take a look at the full review video once posted for more detail.

Did you already update the firmware on the remote and activate it through the dji software?

Agree. Problem is that there really isn’t anywhere else that’s well protected during crashes.

No longer have this remote but I heard that a firmware update after this video was made changed the behavior so that the remote no longer disconnects when the goggles disconnect. Everything else shown in the video is still valid.

@@Mangorille nice info, thanks

Thanks for the comment. Still liking this new version of the Hakko.

No issues. This is to silence it.

I've seen different shaped faceplates. Problem is that you don't know which you need until you buy and try. That gets expensive fast.

You can see the filter settings in the Dump File in the video description under "My Betaflight 4.4.2 Diff Dump CLI & 3D Print Files".

The video quality of the session 5 is very outdated. It was outdated when I did a comparison of the session 5 to the hero 7 black. But, the size and weight make it better for FPV. If you want the best video quality, unfortunately it's not the session 5. ruclips.net/video/9n43x-z2Zxo/видео.html

You can get it straight from BetaFPV here: betafpv.com/products/pavo20-brushless-whoop-quadcopter

I didn't try Wide but you see a lot of the props in Ultra Wide so I would expect a bit of props in Wide.

Which goggles and air unit do you have? Check out this video: ruclips.net/video/tYomxAbQ7Vs/видео.html

You need to see which UART the SBUS (yellow wire) connection from the Vista 6-pin goes to. It will NOT be the same as where you have MSP turned on. You need two different UARTs for the Vista to use the controller 2, one is for the vista connection so it can communicate things like voltage, osd, etc. and one is for the receiver. Looking at the manual of your flight controller, you'd want Serial RX turned on for UART2, but if you see a Crossfire RX already on UART2 then this will not work. You need to move the Crossfire RX to another UART. geprc.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/F722-45A-AIO-USER-MANUAL.pdf

@@Mangorille Thank you, ended up removing the Crossfire RX before your reply and it worked 👌

@@DanielAx Perfect. You can run both (I've done it before) but you need to make sure they are on different UARTs and then just flip the Serial RX to the correct UART depending on which receiver you want to use.

Are you sure your goggles were successfully rooted? Do you have anything else open in the background that could be trying to access the goggles (such as the dji app or even the wtf webpage)?

Same here. I re-rooted, all good the 2nd time.

Correct, the idea is all the same. What is different though is the durability of the glass and the mounting mechanism.

Thanks! Happy flying!

I came from a station that had an encoder wheel, I actually like the buttons more now. I usually only need 3 temperatures anyway so the buttons let me get there fairly quickly.

Good to hear!

Try turning off the DJI HDL (SBUS Baud Fast). Some have reported that they weren't able to get this working. I never had any problems but you can start there.

Welcome. Check out the follow up videos as well for the ultimate sleeper mod.

@@Mangorille I saw the video, but im worried about all the mods involved with the new ELRS module. This one took a little massage to fit but is working perfect. Using the flip down original antenna on your new mod does look amazing tho!!!

@@Snakkerz003 The BETAFPV module is a lot more difficult to install but the extra effort gets you an additional 250mw (250mw vs 500mw). Go with whichever module you can find, they're becoming hard to find.

Agree. I bought this during the great GPU shortage so this was the only way to get a GPU without a crazy mark up.

The v2 goggles are still a great option. You're really just missing out on two main features: the ability to embed the OSD into the goggle video recording and the OLED displays.

Easier yes, but I like the power lead to come out the front so that I can zip tie it to a standoff for strain relief in a crash (makes it more difficult for them to pull off the board in a crash).

Interesting idea, I'll have to try. Thanks!

i have speedybee405 v4 I selected msp on uart1 and not working. I swapped the pins rx and tx on the o3 connector to the FC and still the same. im stucked

@@rondridealmeria Can you send me some pictures of how you have the O3 wired up on the flight controller? If you are not getting the drone's voltage on the goggles, usually that's a wiring issue.

@@Mangorille the funny thing is that the wiring goes to the FC to the dedicated connection and the pin order is right. Just sorted a couple of days ago, apparently Tx or Rx pins were not contacting into the DJI connector. Thanks for your reply!

If you are running betaflight 4.4 or later you no longer use those commands. Check out the pinned comment. If you are using a version before 4.4, correct set to 0 if using uart 1.

Goggles 2 and Goggles Integra can record the Betaflight OSD in the Goggle recording. You need to turn on a setting, I can't remember the exact name but it's something like Goggle View Recording.

Check out Joshua Bardwell, he has a bunch of setup tutorials for betaflight. Tuning wise, I use PIDToolBox: ruclips.net/video/dnVW6agh_u4/видео.html

The RF shielded areas aren't fully sealed to begin with and there are areas of the unit not covered by the RF shields. But yes, making it naked could impact the durability given that the components are more exposed. I haven't had any issues yet and I crash all the time in wet grass.

It's not clear to me. The specs say Betaflight but the manual shows INAV as a firmware type in the screenshots. I'd suggest logging a ticket with Speedybee to confirm before purchase. They're fairly responsive.

yes perfect under INAV 7.1

Check out my build video, I've got my Betaflight configuration and PIDs there for a 4s with 1404 and 1604 motors.

Been a while since I used this remote given my experience but don't recall this being a big issue. I had other issues that perhaps overshadowed.

@@Mangorille It has plenty other other small issues as well, but for me the fact it won't stay planted is a deal breaker. It works great with the Avata but not a fan of using it with the 5" freestyle I recently built.

@@J_Madison Ya, invest in your favorite ELRS controller and never look back.

@@Mangorille my thoughts as well. The Boxer Max by Radiomaster is looking mighty tasty!

Nope, there are no front and rear jack points like on a traditional car. To do it safely you need one of those shop jacks that lift the car from all four jack points simultaneously. Having said that this guy has done it at home but did say that his jack points were damaged. teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/how-to-get-your-model-3-on-jack-stands-without-any-special-tools.261835/

@@Mangorille Thanks man. But the former drifter in me won’t allow me to “balance” the car in that way. It looks like once the front and rear aero covers are removed there’s a plethora of subframe to safely lift the front or rear (Model Y). That will free up the jack points for the 4 jackstands. Looks like the lower control arms inward pivot points are potential targets as well. Can’t see it too well from other videos but the covers are probably on them. But you can either drive up on some wood and or traditional ramps and access the aero covers. I like using wood or a nice rubber pad on my floor jack. It really depends on the vehicle. Cheers

@@vqdriver I agree, that is just asking for something to twist. On a conventional car, I would find a middle back (usually differential) and middle front (usually cross member) jackpoint and use those, of course doesn't apply to Teslas.

The pids you see in the video is on a 4s setup. You can also find the betaflight configuration file in the video description.

Your best bet is to ask on the DJI forums. I don't intend to purchase the controller 3 after my experience with the controller 2.

​@@Mangorillewhy what was wrong with your experience with the controller 2?

Correct, I rely more on the rpm filter. You can have the sliders all the way to the right if your quad is mechanically sound and not very noisy. If unsure, start with the filters in the middle default position.

How exactly does it twitch and under what sort of maneuvers?

@@Mangorille i have these twitches, if i take off and the Copter does go with the back to the left side clockwise. During flight, you can also clearly see these twitches through your glasses. I suspect I have a bad gyro. I will now test your dump and see if the flight behavior changes. Without a propeller, the motor tab looks inconspicuous. The motors spin up smoothly without any failures. Really weird

@@SaschaMittag Without the props on, do you feel any weird vibrations when you spin up the motors? If you put all the bars at one point on the motors tab, do all the motors show roughly the same rpm (you'll need bi-directional dshot turned on for this)?

@@Mangorille no weird vibrations, i changed to Bluejay and Set the Pids and Filters to default. The copter Flow better. I will try your Set up again and give you a reply.