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You’ll need to make a lead to adapt the connector used on those batteries to a XT60.

What goggles and air unit are you using?

Was the OSD working fine before you tried this mod? Did you make sure to root and install WTFOS on both the Goggles and Air Unit?

Good reminder, thanks buddy.

What if you lose connection while doing a freestyle maneuver over a tree and get the quad stuck in the tree? Regardless, issue seems to have been resolved back in October. ruclips.net/video/4zqqokvcnSo/видео.html

Sorry to say that it's probably something on your side, their site seems to work okay for me.

I don't have that quad. You can do the tune yourself by getting the software and following the PIDToolBox instructions. It'll cost you a few dollars to sign up for his Patreon though.

@Mangorille thanks

Hey buddy. With the O3 you need to get some sort of device that will trick the air unit into going into its fully armed state, otherwise it will not reach full power and give you low range. You'd want something like this which will take care of everything for you and even has a connector for a fan to keep the air unit cool. www.getfpv.com/chaddrainsfpv-o3-armer.html?srsltid=AfmBOopkbW9mSHv6d7tbAwPQ11sU-3jgLbDQJ7nZ8QersYsflxuthyZ6&afid=bkfOu8DK3YnNUD7y&referring_service=link

That would be amazing but we'd also want the 20x20 AIO to have a typical size as well. They have the Crux AIO right now which is 20x20 but it has a weird rectangular form factor.

I flew mine decased and did not get any core temp warnings. The core temp is supposed to be in degrees C, 140/150 is unlikely as that would mean that the chip has practically melted. Do you have a temp probe to check the temp yourself to confirm? Do you see any shorts on the board where you soldered up components?

@@Mangorille The flight controller get so hot in less than a minute you cant touch it and i checked all solder points and everthing is good, maybe this is why they put a heatsink on this board

@@Viseo3dp Hate to say it but it sounds like something got damaged in the heatsink removal. Does it still all work okay and just the heat issue?

@@Mangorille Yes it still works im flying it around just not to far just in case

@@Mangorille i must say the omly other thing would be i only get 3mins of flight time with a 650 4s running 1404 x 4500kv frame is volador 3'' and the tune is a preset for 3to 4 inch superfly so im not sure if that a problem also

Welcome. What kind of motors are you running and are you trying to go for a super light build? I just posted a review of another AIO that's even smaller and lighter. ruclips.net/video/-HZhYHm02PQ/видео.html

Nothing wrong with the ICM, it just needs a properly designed board with enough filtered power. :)

Yup, Canada...

Agree, the amperage capability of the modern ESCs are out of control. My build pulls a maximum of 55amps total so technically a 15amp ESC is all I need. :)

@Mangorille my 6s fox crooked pulls around 30 per 2207 2100kv motors with a high volt battery. :/ I'm not crazy good but I can kaak the throttle in the race.

Welcome to the hobby! On the modes tab, do you see a switch assigned for something called "USER1"?

@Mangorille I assigned the aux switch to User1, but it didn’t work. Since I’m new to this, I might have messed something up while tinkering with Betaflight. I’ll try resetting the FC firmware and give it another go.

I'm not very good at English, so I asked GPT to translate this for me. I kindly ask for your understanding.

@@hebb-zi7kx When tinkering did you by chance upgrade the firmware? There are some Pin IO configuration that you need to the LED to work.

​@@MangorilleIt's not because of soldering. I just wanted to try a firmware update, and that's how it happened. I’ll try again with the manufacturer’s firmware for now. The LED pin configuration is the same as yours.

If you purchase it for the O3 it comes with a tube holder style antenna holder.

Thanks buddy, it's the Quadmula Siren F35 Split. I did a review video on it here: ruclips.net/video/Uwasr2duZ9g/видео.html

@ thank u brother, will check it out. Looking forward for ur future FPV Drone review video.

Happymodel makes two different 20amp models, this one that I reviewed and then a rectangular one specifically for their Crux frame.

Library, community center, school... Local hobby and builder communities. In the average location I can find a hundred places to do a print for me, on the day. A large percentage for free or very cheap. I have a couple of printers, and print all reasonably sized parts for free for friends, neighbors and acquaintances. It's not as difficult as you think.

@@lemonsquareFPV Ya, they've become pretty mainstream at this point. Check your local classifieds as well, lots of people will print for a few bucks if all the above don't work out. Heck if you were local to me in Canada I'd print it out for you, this piece takes 10 minutes to print.

Bro I use to say the same but nowadays you could probably pick up a second hand printer for less than this aio that you are probably gonna buy also just ask around they are everywhere and many will help you out for free

Same, been using their ELRS gear for years. It seems a bit more expensive on the surface given the F4 processor until you factor is that you're also saving on the ELRS Receiver.

Thanks buddy! Parts list looks good. What exact battery are you looking at? Only suggestion is to look at 3800kv motor instead. Not that the 4600kv won't work (I've been using 4600kv for 5+ years) but those are a really high kv if you are targeting low weight and a small battery, which leads to more battery sag. Thoughts on what your target ready to fly weight will be?

@@Mangorille there is a local online shop here that sells GNB GAONENG 14.8V 550MAH 4S 90C XT30 LiPo Battery. they also have GAONENG GNB 4S 15.2V HV 660MAH 90C XT30 RC LiPo Battery. these are the 2 types of batteries im planning to use. target weight is around 230 to 240g or as long as its below 250g. we really dont have laws yet when it comes to FPV here but i just wanted to go with the sub 250g. i just noticed. the happymodel super f405hd aio doesnt come with capacitor or maybe im mistaken. just incase, what capacitor should i use?

@@flylowfpv The 550 is a small pack for this build. I've been using the 650 packs with good luck. I tried the 530 pack and the smaller cells have higher resistance which makes them sag more. A 25v 470uf capacitor is what I run.

@@Mangorille this is noted. imma get the larger packs then. larger packs with 4600kv motor it is. time to order the AIO and the capacitor. frames and other parts are on there way but im not hoping to finish the build before new year. im not really on a rush. i really appreciate your help. thanks a ton and happy holidays!!

@@flylowfpvI have same frame with tmotor 4600kv motors. You will need a motor output limit and props with less pitch! The vx3 is a chunky frame and battery sag is a really big problem. I will search for a way lighter frame.

I found that with a 3.5" as well, the disc loading is all off otherwise and it feels too overpowered and touchy. With a 3" you can afford to be closer to that 225-230g ready to fly.

I have a 3.5" with digital DJI inside and it weighs just over 100 grams! The power to weight ratio is out of sight! It's so fast it's almost scary and it maneuvers like a big Toothpick drone! Corners amazing. So, maybe for tricks and power loops more weight is ok, but lighter is ALWAYS better. It gives you that huge power to weight ratio that makes the drone perform so incredible. I highly suggest you building an ultra lightweight 3" or 3.5" and see what I mean...

Yeah but they all fly like shite compared to a 5”

i just built one of shawn’s (let’s fly RC)!3.5 inch tanq S frames. i’m running GNB HV 650mah 4S and it flies BETTER than my 5 inches. i have not flown my 5 inches since i got it. so yea, i agree with everything you said here.

@ the power to weight on the 3.5in is a little harder to dial in then the 5in, but once you do boy to they fly great. Inside a tight bando, or a small park, they really shine. I still prefer the 5in, but for traveling I have a fleet of 3.5in I take with me.

I did a build video on this frame a while back if you want more details. Build Video: ruclips.net/video/IKHoPryhvCg/видео.html Motors: ruclips.net/video/JV8NnNlx2vg/видео.html

They key is the AWG of the wires that the motor uses. If they are too thick, you'll have a difficult time soldering to the board.

@Mangorille i was going to comment on it but I'd already commented so much, flywoo is the last 2 aio I used and both offer side soldering and that helps a lot with the closeness I hate when the tabs are close and only on top like that but i know that those bee boards are good though.

@@JustKeepLivingFPV This also has motor pads on the bottom of the board but they are even smaller. :)

@@Mangorille I see, should try and put the middle motor wire on the bottom if you had 20aug would have to do a little B's flip flopping

@@JustKeepLivingFPV Very creative, I like it!

Yes, that's possible.

The F745 AIO that SpeedyBee has? That one weight nearly double and does not have the ELRS built in.

Thanks for sharing. It's unfortunate that they didn't make the 35a compatible with 6s but they did for the 45a version. :(

@@Mangorille ye true 35A would be plenty enough for 6s on a 3 or 3.5inch

I used a small screw driver to remove the big pieces in areas that were low risk. Then I used alcohol and a toothbrush to remove the rest. It took a while but you can get 95 percent of the glue off with patience (maybe half hour of heads down time)

@@Mangorille Thanks

@@Catalysis1144 Welcome. Good luck! Watch out for the barometer though if you care about it.

Appreciate it. I did a minimal job don’t want to take the risk. They should have made heat sink optional same as Axis Flying pink AIO they made it optional.

@@Catalysis1144 Agree, it's just bling. They did attach the antenna to the top heatsink so you'll need to think how you want to relocate that if the app is important to you.

Yes, check 1:34 in the video. You can also print your own if you want a different colour.

@ Thanks.

Thanks

Based on the pictures it looks like the same R001. Did your R001 also explode and disappear off the board?

@Mangorille Thank you for the response. Actually, I can still see it on the board. R001 is correct. There is no visible damage to the board at all. So I'm having the same issue of plugging in the battery. There are no lights, tbs receiver, no lights, then plugging into betaflight board and receiver lit. I just got smoke when I plugged in no explosion or fire. Do I need to do a better job soldering the power cord? I'm all out of ideas. BetaFPV set me an Air75 DOA, so then they sent this board for free to help me out now this.

@@DannyFPV7 Sorry to hear that, sounds like you may have fried another component and your R001 did not pop to prevent damage to the rest of the board like what happened for me. Reach out to BetaFPV, perhaps they will offer you a replacement at a discount.

I reviewed that SpeedyBee as well. Do you need a Barometer? Do you plan to run more than 4S? How important is super light weight for your build? ruclips.net/video/y-BmItQCYbs/видео.html

@ under 250g and a Bar. Would be great 👍🏽

@@print.that.ship3D The GEPRC doesn't include a barometer. If you want something that is super light with a barometer, you can go with the Super F405HD that I reviewed last night here: ruclips.net/video/-HZhYHm02PQ/видео.html

Are you using an external ELRS module on your Pocket?

Nope, it's internal. Hence the question.

@@quesoner34 You'll need to measure and compare the size to the one I used. There isn't much space in the Tango 2. You'll also need to figure out the pin out since it doesn't connect through a regular External Module connector.

@Mangorille ..so basically start the whole process you did from scratch again. 😅 Alright, thanks for that clarification, I'll see if I can find the time and commitment for it.

@@quesoner34 Pretty much or try to find the same module I used and save yourself the time. You can find them fairly cheap on Aliexpress.