Hey Folks. Hope you enjoyed the video. If you intend to remove the heatsinks and use the SpeedyBee bluetooth app, plan to install the antenna somewhere. I find that the app works without the antenna but only if you are nearby and there is no interference. For example, without the antenna, the app would not connect while I was using my bluetooth headset. You may want to consider leaving the top heatsink installed and only remove the bottom heatsink for a bit of weight savings. Happy flying...
Your channel is really promising, you talk about the facts that are important and the video is kept in a good style and very enjoyable. Hope to see more videos! Greetings from germany fly safe
Great build! Really like your attention to weight savings. At 4:53 you say that you had to configure the board to resolve the board being turned. Do you have a video on that process? Is it more than just telling betaflight that the motors are different locations and rotation? Also, can you link the 3D parts you used to make the DJI Air antenna holder?
You need to change the Gyro alignment by changing the Yaw number you see. There's a video in the Betaflight docs: betaflight.com/docs/wiki/guides/current/flight-controller-gyro-orientation You can find the 3d print files linked in the review video of that frame: ruclips.net/video/ZFv5DHiRUDM/видео.html
For small drones removing the heatsink wont be a problem but you have probably turned it into a 20-30 esc now. If you look at the specs for fets they can handle a lot more current when they have heatsinks.
I compared the FETs on this with the FETs on the SpeedyBee F745 AIO that I reviewed a while ago and they look the same. The SpeedyBee F745 AIO is rated at 35A (45A burst) and without the use of a heatsink. Having said that, the heatsink can't hurt if you are okay with the extra weight but then why would you go for a small AIO like this if weight wasn't a concern...
I have the AIO from Skystars, the Jupiter. It also has the heat sinks but I like them as history of AIO's is that they are typically a bit more fragile and unreliable compared to a stack. One thing that is awesome with the Jupiter is the size of the solder pads - I think they are fairly large for an AIO. This Speedy Bee also has some rather large solder pads (as you noted in the video). Since this video is a few months old now can you tell us how it has been working? Do you like or dislike it? Is it working or damaged?
@@Mangorille Just watched your HGLRC video (thanks for the link above) - it does look like a good option. I used to fly the Foxeer Reapers but I had problems soldering to it - the pads are small but really the soldering was my fault - but for some reason I moved away from them. I bought them as from what I could tell lots of racers were using Foxeer stacks (not AIO versions) and they seemed to have a reputation of being high quality and durable. Also Skystars seems to be growing a lot and is gaining a good reputation so far - as far as I can tell. And then there is Sequre. I have their Si012 Pro Max soldering iron, it is great. But now it looks like they are getting into FPV with FC's and ESC's... the pricing for the soldering irons is very affordable but they seem to have gone another way on the stacks - Do you have experience with the Reaper AIO's? Also have you checked out the Skystars one?
Can this be used on 2" to 3" cinelog style drones? Pavo20+ etc? Or is it a little too big/weighty for that? Looking to build some cinema style < 250g setups with DJI 03, GPS.. accounting for removal of heat sink and all? Or you think with a 4s battery it will still be over 250?
It can be used for 2 - 3 inch drones but not for the Pavo20. This is way overkill for a drone like that. To give you an idea, the flight controller that comes with the Pavo20 weights 5.6grams including a ELRS receiver. This SpeedyBee AIO is about 10grams without the heatsink and without a ELRS receiver. I see the SpeedyBee AIO for more high power quads.
This was a really nice board for the ~30m I was able to fly it before the 5v BEC died on me. I also discovered through this process that SpeedyBee considers its warranty void if you solder anything to the solder pads. So yeah, caveat emptor.
@@Mangorille It was an analog setup - Zeus nano VTX, RP1 RX and a camera (don't remember which one. All those components are still working fine (I moved them over to a f405 mini after the AIO failed).
@@kerinin Hmm, that shouldn't push the 5v BEC over its limit. Here I thought you may have been running a 2W VTX, LEDs, etc. but nope. I'm surprised SpeedyBee didn't replace it for you. I had a bad ESC a while back and they replaced it after some troubleshooting with support.
I heated them up a bit with a hair dryer and then used a prop to slowly cut the glue and pry them up. I then used alcohol and a toothbrush to clean off the glue. Make sure you don't get alcohol into the barometer if the barometer is important for you.
When your saying 40amp esc, is it 40amp power input for each motor or the overall is 45amp? And also in video your display said you when around 54amp is that the total amp of all four motors together?
The ESC ratings you see from manufacturers are per ESC (e.g. 40 amps per ESC). The value you see on the display is the total amps from the battery (so all four motors together plus anything else connected to the flight controller).
Awesome video! What was the weight of this build? It looks super lightweight.. You talked about getting the AIO tuned up as you flew it at first.. Could you make a video about maybe just some basic baseline PID Tuning & the /Low Pass Filters/Dynamic Notch Filters for a new Quad Build? Also maybe see how to identify the issue with an example Log screenshot from the PIDToolBox app..
Thanks buddy. It's 143grams without battery. You can see the build video of that frame here: ruclips.net/video/ZFv5DHiRUDM/видео.html I made a video on PidToolBox a while ago here: ruclips.net/video/dnVW6agh_u4/видео.html
Hi Mangorille, if im running o4 air unit pro with 4s, can i connect directly to the connector? or i need to to connect to external BEC first? please help
The O4 pro supports up to 6s so you can use that without any issues. It's the O4 lite that only supports up to 3s and you need to make sure you are running it off the correct voltage.
I used a small screw driver to remove the big pieces in areas that were low risk. Then I used alcohol and a toothbrush to remove the rest. It took a while but you can get 95 percent of the glue off with patience (maybe half hour of heads down time)
Appreciate it. I did a minimal job don’t want to take the risk. They should have made heat sink optional same as Axis Flying pink AIO they made it optional.
@@Catalysis1144 Agree, it's just bling. They did attach the antenna to the top heatsink so you'll need to think how you want to relocate that if the app is important to you.
hello, can you tell me how much the lower aluminum part weighs please? thanks! (to have the weight without the lower part, but keeping the upper part..)
@@Mangorille OK. is for a flyfishrc tony 5.. and the error (ok just 5% but..) for the bidirectional dshot annoy me a little.. do you think is a problem? sem to be cool so.. thinking! thank a lot!!
@@leflamantrosefpv1725 I haven't seen any other ESC throwing an error like this before. I didn't feel anything different in flight though and no other reviewer mentioned the DSHOT error so possible that I just got an early release version.
@@Mangorille ok I'll ask the question. in any case, it is heavy for an aio.. I looked at a flywoo stack in 20x20 and it weighed less than this aio.. the speedybee too.. and I prefer the stacks because you can change the ESC if it is burned instead of having to change everything.. it's almost the same price and the same weight.. I'll keep thinking about it.. thank you for your details, and your instant feedback, cordially, A.
@@leflamantrosefpv1725 If you have the space, go with a separate stack or try to find one that is closer to the amp draw you need. For example, if you don't need 40 amps, go with a smaller one so that the weight is less.
You need a wider frame to run these. The Quadmula frames are really narrow so even if you 3d print a 20x20 to 25x25 converter, the flight controller will stick out of the frame.
@@b3owu1f Yes, DSHOT 300. This is a weird one because usually the motor error is the result of too high CPU usage from my experience but here we only see ~50% usage. The error does disappear when I run a 2.7K PID loop.
All F4 flight controllers that use the timer based mechanism to implement dshot seem to have this error rate. I believe Betaflight will solve it later. This BUG does not affect the use and flight at present.
@@drayce483 I suspect it is something to do with the firmware as well. If it really bothers someone, they can drop the PID loop to 2.7K and the errors will go away. This doesn't make sense since the CPU has the headroom to run 4K. I didn't encounter any flight impacts of the minuscule error rate.
I'd prefer zero error as well but my research turned up that anything under 1 percent is acceptable. I did try dropping the PID loop to 2.7K and it resolved the error. It is weird because at 4K there's only ~50% CPU usage so there's enough margin to run 4K.
I don't know if it's just me, but I found this board to be very difficult to get soldering done, and I'm not really a newbie at soldering, taking the lid off it, I can see probably would help a little, but that's not something I would do
Sorry buddy not to be mean but I found this one fairly easy to solder. The pads are quite large for an AIO. I struggled a lot more on the Speedybee f7 AIO and the Geprc AIO. What challenge you having with soldering it up? Your solder tip too large?
@ it was very weird. I was doing everything like I normally do, but it’s like the pads were rejecting my solder, I have plenty of heat use plenty of solder. I even tried different tips, but it was like the small pads were rejecting my solder I don’t have any trouble with regular SpeedyBeeflight controllers.
@@michaelripple8371 Strange, I didn't have that problem. I found that usually means a dirty tip, not enough heat, or the flux in the solder has burnt off from too much heat. Sorry to hear about your issues though.
I've encountered this problem a handful of times on all different types of PCB's. So a few tricks that have helped me were ultimately 2 things (and this is with keeping the same soldering iron + tip + temp). Different solder- MG Chem 60/40, a generic 60/40 or some 63/37 work for me. Flux- Try some rosin-base flux or a flux pen, or an acid petro-based flux.
LOL. I've been happy with SpeedyBee over the last couple of years. They get a bad rep sometimes, probably because they sell so many units that naturally even if they have the same failure percentage as other manufactures, you seem to hear more.
I flew mine decased and did not get any core temp warnings. The core temp is supposed to be in degrees C, 140/150 is unlikely as that would mean that the chip has practically melted. Do you have a temp probe to check the temp yourself to confirm? Do you see any shorts on the board where you soldered up components?
@@Mangorille The flight controller get so hot in less than a minute you cant touch it and i checked all solder points and everthing is good, maybe this is why they put a heatsink on this board
@@Mangorille i must say the omly other thing would be i only get 3mins of flight time with a 650 4s running 1404 x 4500kv frame is volador 3'' and the tune is a preset for 3to 4 inch superfly so im not sure if that a problem also
Hey Folks. Hope you enjoyed the video. If you intend to remove the heatsinks and use the SpeedyBee bluetooth app, plan to install the antenna somewhere. I find that the app works without the antenna but only if you are nearby and there is no interference. For example, without the antenna, the app would not connect while I was using my bluetooth headset. You may want to consider leaving the top heatsink installed and only remove the bottom heatsink for a bit of weight savings. Happy flying...
Your channel is really promising, you talk about the facts that are important and the video is kept in a good style and very enjoyable. Hope to see more videos! Greetings from germany fly safe
Thanks buddy. Happy flying.
Great build! Really like your attention to weight savings. At 4:53 you say that you had to configure the board to resolve the board being turned. Do you have a video on that process? Is it more than just telling betaflight that the motors are different locations and rotation? Also, can you link the 3D parts you used to make the DJI Air antenna holder?
You need to change the Gyro alignment by changing the Yaw number you see. There's a video in the Betaflight docs: betaflight.com/docs/wiki/guides/current/flight-controller-gyro-orientation
You can find the 3d print files linked in the review video of that frame: ruclips.net/video/ZFv5DHiRUDM/видео.html
For small drones removing the heatsink wont be a problem but you have probably turned it into a 20-30 esc now.
If you look at the specs for fets they can handle a lot more current when they have heatsinks.
I compared the FETs on this with the FETs on the SpeedyBee F745 AIO that I reviewed a while ago and they look the same. The SpeedyBee F745 AIO is rated at 35A (45A burst) and without the use of a heatsink. Having said that, the heatsink can't hurt if you are okay with the extra weight but then why would you go for a small AIO like this if weight wasn't a concern...
I have the AIO from Skystars, the Jupiter. It also has the heat sinks but I like them as history of AIO's is that they are typically a bit more fragile and unreliable compared to a stack. One thing that is awesome with the Jupiter is the size of the solder pads - I think they are fairly large for an AIO. This Speedy Bee also has some rather large solder pads (as you noted in the video).
Since this video is a few months old now can you tell us how it has been working? Do you like or dislike it? Is it working or damaged?
Still working just fine but I also started using an AIO that has the ELRS built in as well! ruclips.net/video/-HZhYHm02PQ/видео.html
@@Mangorille Just watched your HGLRC video (thanks for the link above) - it does look like a good option. I used to fly the Foxeer Reapers but I had problems soldering to it - the pads are small but really the soldering was my fault - but for some reason I moved away from them.
I bought them as from what I could tell lots of racers were using Foxeer stacks (not AIO versions) and they seemed to have a reputation of being high quality and durable.
Also Skystars seems to be growing a lot and is gaining a good reputation so far - as far as I can tell.
And then there is Sequre. I have their Si012 Pro Max soldering iron, it is great. But now it looks like they are getting into FPV with FC's and ESC's... the pricing for the soldering irons is very affordable but they seem to have gone another way on the stacks -
Do you have experience with the Reaper AIO's? Also have you checked out the Skystars one?
@@GMx_1 I haven't tried the Reaper. I did try some Skystars motors but had really bad luck with them (have a review on my channel).
Can this be used on 2" to 3" cinelog style drones? Pavo20+ etc? Or is it a little too big/weighty for that? Looking to build some cinema style < 250g setups with DJI 03, GPS.. accounting for removal of heat sink and all? Or you think with a 4s battery it will still be over 250?
It can be used for 2 - 3 inch drones but not for the Pavo20. This is way overkill for a drone like that. To give you an idea, the flight controller that comes with the Pavo20 weights 5.6grams including a ELRS receiver. This SpeedyBee AIO is about 10grams without the heatsink and without a ELRS receiver. I see the SpeedyBee AIO for more high power quads.
What kind of heat did you use to get the heat sinks off? Soldering iron oressed again it or heat gun?
Heat gun or a hair dryer. You're not looking to melt it off, just a bit of heat to loosen the glue.
This was a really nice board for the ~30m I was able to fly it before the 5v BEC died on me. I also discovered through this process that SpeedyBee considers its warranty void if you solder anything to the solder pads. So yeah, caveat emptor.
Sorry to hear that. What were you running off the 5v when it stopped working?
@@Mangorille It was an analog setup - Zeus nano VTX, RP1 RX and a camera (don't remember which one. All those components are still working fine (I moved them over to a f405 mini after the AIO failed).
@@kerinin Hmm, that shouldn't push the 5v BEC over its limit. Here I thought you may have been running a 2W VTX, LEDs, etc. but nope. I'm surprised SpeedyBee didn't replace it for you. I had a bad ESC a while back and they replaced it after some troubleshooting with support.
Hello. How were you able to remove the radiators without damage? How was the glue cleaned?
I heated them up a bit with a hair dryer and then used a prop to slowly cut the glue and pry them up. I then used alcohol and a toothbrush to clean off the glue. Make sure you don't get alcohol into the barometer if the barometer is important for you.
When your saying 40amp esc, is it 40amp power input for each motor or the overall is 45amp? And also in video your display said you when around 54amp is that the total amp of all four motors together?
The ESC ratings you see from manufacturers are per ESC (e.g. 40 amps per ESC). The value you see on the display is the total amps from the battery (so all four motors together plus anything else connected to the flight controller).
@ isn’t the maximum amp 40amp, how can your esc hold over 54amp?
@ 40amp per esc and there are 4 escs on the board, which means it can theoretically pull up to 160amps if the rest of the power system supports that.
Thank for the review
No problem. Happy flying!
Awesome video! What was the weight of this build? It looks super lightweight..
You talked about getting the AIO tuned up as you flew it at first..
Could you make a video about maybe just some basic baseline PID Tuning & the /Low Pass Filters/Dynamic Notch Filters for a new Quad Build? Also maybe see how to identify the issue with an example Log screenshot from the PIDToolBox app..
Thanks buddy. It's 143grams without battery. You can see the build video of that frame here: ruclips.net/video/ZFv5DHiRUDM/видео.html
I made a video on PidToolBox a while ago here: ruclips.net/video/dnVW6agh_u4/видео.html
Great video! Thank You!
Welcome. Happy flying!
Hi Mangorille, if im running o4 air unit pro with 4s, can i connect directly to the connector? or i need to to connect to external BEC first? please help
The O4 pro supports up to 6s so you can use that without any issues. It's the O4 lite that only supports up to 3s and you need to make sure you are running it off the correct voltage.
How did you manage to remove the glue after removing heatsink. I removed heatsink but glue still sticking to the board?
I used a small screw driver to remove the big pieces in areas that were low risk. Then I used alcohol and a toothbrush to remove the rest. It took a while but you can get 95 percent of the glue off with patience (maybe half hour of heads down time)
@@Mangorille Thanks
@@Catalysis1144 Welcome. Good luck! Watch out for the barometer though if you care about it.
Appreciate it. I did a minimal job don’t want to take the risk. They should have made heat sink optional same as Axis Flying pink AIO they made it optional.
@@Catalysis1144 Agree, it's just bling. They did attach the antenna to the top heatsink so you'll need to think how you want to relocate that if the app is important to you.
hello, can you tell me how much the lower aluminum part weighs please? thanks! (to have the weight without the lower part, but keeping the upper part..)
The lower heatsink is 1.84g not including the thermal goop that would also get removed as part of the heatsink removal, so maybe 2 - 2.2g?
@@Mangorille OK. is for a flyfishrc tony 5.. and the error (ok just 5% but..) for the bidirectional dshot annoy me a little.. do you think is a problem? sem to be cool so.. thinking! thank a lot!!
@@leflamantrosefpv1725 I haven't seen any other ESC throwing an error like this before. I didn't feel anything different in flight though and no other reviewer mentioned the DSHOT error so possible that I just got an early release version.
@@Mangorille ok I'll ask the question. in any case, it is heavy for an aio.. I looked at a flywoo stack in 20x20 and it weighed less than this aio.. the speedybee too.. and I prefer the stacks because you can change the ESC if it is burned instead of having to change everything.. it's almost the same price and the same weight.. I'll keep thinking about it.. thank you for your details, and your instant feedback, cordially, A.
@@leflamantrosefpv1725 If you have the space, go with a separate stack or try to find one that is closer to the amp draw you need. For example, if you don't need 40 amps, go with a smaller one so that the weight is less.
Damn thats a nice looking AIO. Too bad it's not 20x20 so it won't fit it in my Djinn25.
You need a wider frame to run these. The Quadmula frames are really narrow so even if you 3d print a 20x20 to 25x25 converter, the flight controller will stick out of the frame.
Any error's in the motor's tab is not good and hopefully it's just your aoi try going down to dshot 150 and see if that goes away
Shouldn't they be doing dshot 300 or dshot 600?
@@b3owu1f Yes, DSHOT 300. This is a weird one because usually the motor error is the result of too high CPU usage from my experience but here we only see ~50% usage. The error does disappear when I run a 2.7K PID loop.
All F4 flight controllers that use the timer based mechanism to implement dshot seem to have this error rate. I believe Betaflight will solve it later. This BUG does not affect the use and flight at present.
@@drayce483 I suspect it is something to do with the firmware as well. If it really bothers someone, they can drop the PID loop to 2.7K and the errors will go away. This doesn't make sense since the CPU has the headroom to run 4K. I didn't encounter any flight impacts of the minuscule error rate.
Any error in the motors tab is not good try dshot 150 and see if it goes away hopefully it just your review board
I'd prefer zero error as well but my research turned up that anything under 1 percent is acceptable. I did try dropping the PID loop to 2.7K and it resolved the error. It is weird because at 4K there's only ~50% CPU usage so there's enough margin to run 4K.
I don't know if it's just me, but I found this board to be very difficult to get soldering done, and I'm not really a newbie at soldering, taking the lid off it, I can see probably would help a little, but that's not something I would do
Sorry buddy not to be mean but I found this one fairly easy to solder. The pads are quite large for an AIO. I struggled a lot more on the Speedybee f7 AIO and the Geprc AIO. What challenge you having with soldering it up? Your solder tip too large?
@ it was very weird. I was doing everything like I normally do, but it’s like the pads were rejecting my solder, I have plenty of heat use plenty of solder. I even tried different tips, but it was like the small pads were rejecting my solder I don’t have any trouble with regular SpeedyBeeflight controllers.
@ I bought four of those AIO I ruined one and I have three left. If you wanna buy any I’ll sell you some cheap. or cheaper
@@michaelripple8371 Strange, I didn't have that problem. I found that usually means a dirty tip, not enough heat, or the flux in the solder has burnt off from too much heat. Sorry to hear about your issues though.
I've encountered this problem a handful of times on all different types of PCB's. So a few tricks that have helped me were ultimately 2 things (and this is with keeping the same soldering iron + tip + temp).
Different solder- MG Chem 60/40, a generic 60/40 or some 63/37 work for me.
Flux- Try some rosin-base flux or a flux pen, or an acid petro-based flux.
Wow that is nice
Yup, especially at that price. Don’t know how SpeedyBee does it!
Very nice , now we ll have to wait for some legit companies to make similars aios
LOL. I've been happy with SpeedyBee over the last couple of years. They get a bad rep sometimes, probably because they sell so many units that naturally even if they have the same failure percentage as other manufactures, you seem to hear more.
So i decased it and cleaned it up but now my core temp goes up to 140,150 in less than a minute did this happen to yours at all ?
I flew mine decased and did not get any core temp warnings. The core temp is supposed to be in degrees C, 140/150 is unlikely as that would mean that the chip has practically melted. Do you have a temp probe to check the temp yourself to confirm? Do you see any shorts on the board where you soldered up components?
@@Mangorille The flight controller get so hot in less than a minute you cant touch it and i checked all solder points and everthing is good, maybe this is why they put a heatsink on this board
@@Viseo3dp Hate to say it but it sounds like something got damaged in the heatsink removal. Does it still all work okay and just the heat issue?
@@Mangorille Yes it still works im flying it around just not to far just in case
@@Mangorille i must say the omly other thing would be i only get 3mins of flight time with a 650 4s running 1404 x 4500kv frame is volador 3'' and the tune is a preset for 3to 4 inch superfly so im not sure if that a problem also