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Perhaps yours is T50, mine certainly was not.

Assuming the gears are timed correctly and the key hasn't snapped allowing one to freespin, use a wrench on the cam bolt and turn clockwise.

Once it was running we had to sell the v6. Definitely sounds like you need a head gasket. Once the heads are off use a square or a straight edge to make sure the cylinder head and cylinder bore mating surfaces are still flat. I'd buy a gasket kit or the specific gaskets to replace the ones you can. (Intake manifold, injector o-rings, the aluminum peice the coolant hose attaches to, exhaust manifold etc.)

Try to figure out why your engine overheated. It would suck to do all the work and put it in only to have it overheat on you again.

@@bakerRebuilds Ah, too bad you didn't get to keep it. Yup, ordered the head gaskets and will do all other ones, since I am this deep into the engine. Ok, I will get a straight edge to make sure things are level. As to why it overheated or whatever the reason that LKQ had the engine, I don't know. Just trying to make sure I correct all I can before I stick it in and find out I missed something. LOL

@sethdunn96 I know the feeling lol I've also experienced when it goes wrong and has to be pulled out, no fun! No worries, I still have the HEMI that is on the channel.

@@bakerRebuilds well the Hemi is probably the better one anyway. :D

I couldn't tell you, my video shows accurately for the Chiltons guide. I had someone else bring this up, I got worried and immediately double checked but it is accurate and running really well. Passed Compression and leak down test recently with great readouts.

It is perhaps the difference between 06-10 vs 11-14 model years.

​@@bakerRebuildsI wanted to ask you, I'm working on the same motor and was doing the timing chain because it was clattering and misfiring and it wouldn't idol, when I got the oil pump off, I went to rotate the motor around and line up the timing marks on the cam and crank and I couldn't get the motor to go a full rotation by hand with a breaker bar, it gets in a bind when you rotate it so much to the right or the other way, I noticed when I unbolted the pickup tube that the whole ring was split, so that told me that the motor had a lack of oil pressure, my customer said they didn't have no oil light on, the tensioner for the timing chain was broken, I'm wondering if I need to pull the heads off and see if the motor will rotate then, I just have a hunch that this motor may have bent valves

​@@bakerRebuildsthe motor that I'm working on 2007 Dodge ram 5.7 l hemi, do you have any tips that would help

I wonder if that motor bent some valves and the valve is not closing and the Piston is touching it every time it comes up and it's binding up

Thank you! Over 10 years wrenching helps too.

The music is not on a switch however, newer videos have better audio!

Hope this is everything you need: Intake manifold bolts: torque to 105 in-lbs Valve cover bolts: torque to 105 in-lbs Cylinder head: torque large bolts to 35 ft-lbs. Then large bolts to 55 twice. Then tighten large bolts additional 90 degrees. The finish with small bolts torqued to 21 ft-lbs Oil pump mounting bolts: 21 ft-lbs Exhaust manifold bolts: torque to 200 in-lbs I'll upload a picture of the torque specs out of the book in my "posts" section for you and anyone who needs it. Hope this helps!

Thank you so much

@CalnimptewaTerrence Certainly, I've uploaded pics straight from the book in my posts under the community tab. Glad I could help. Good luck with the project!

Where's the community tab located at?

@CalnimptewaTerrence If you go to my channel home page, it's under the subscribe button and to the right of home, videos, shorts, live, playlists and then community.

No, not at all. I was tearing this engine all the way down so having it out provided more space for a better view. You can probably unbolt the exhaust on the bottom side and remove the heat shield and the manifold itself from the engine bay.

They greatly improved the ride quality, way less body roll, impressive then in response and very helpful with new tire and wheel setup.

Thank you, I appreciate it! That's interesting, we didn't have any flickering that I'm aware of. The only thing I can think of is when installing an aftermarket head unit that can play dvds, there's a wire that goes to the e brake to distinguish whether the car is parked or not to "safely" allow video play. Other than something like that it's odd that you're e brake would have any effect at all. Not that it matters but I think ours were LEDs.

I've really enjoyed them! I take great care of my stuff but they're strong, etching is still very present, everything still working well as expected. I'm starting to want a 1/2" set for no justifiable reason.

You dont need a reason! @@bakerRebuilds

@mg8718 haha *adding to cart (click) lol If I get a set I'll review it on the channel as well.

Im a craftsman guy but the price on craftsman is double and they are made in China as well. Im seriously looking at the Neiko sets.@@bakerRebuildsIs the rear of the socket cut out still holding up with impact gun? Do the sockets fit the bolts nicely?

PS: Dont sell your 12 points sockets. I had a case the other day that a 12 point chrome socket did the trick and saved the day. It was a loder vintage craftsman usa 32 mm 12 pint 1/2 drive socket that i never used and it saved the day. It even stood up to my impact gun and didnt break.

Soon! She'll be lookin mint!!

I am so glad it helped my brother! I know before I started I always preferred all the information to complete the task so that's what I try to provide. Thank you for watching the video!

@@bakerRebuilds yeah aye, I was able to figure out almost all of the wiring but not the high beams. Iv been without them for about 4 weeks now and was considering just taking it to a mechanic because I need them to be fixed for when I take my driving test in 2 weeks.

@rngreflex2961 Just in time then, I'm glad. Congrats on the EVO, they're very fun cars.

I appreciate you letting me know! I appoligize, I had to remove some sound for copyright reasons.

I've lost the torque spec's bro. I've written them down. N for most there not posted on your response.

@@bluefeatherlopez5595 Is what you need in the pictures I posted? Under the community tab on my channel home page?

Such a gem!

Yes, I often work on family and friends cars to help out but I'm not a certified tech and I don't do it as a profession.

The editing is better in newer videos

Can't haha

I'm glad it helped man! Yeah I think there could have been a better design on those sprockets.

It was what I had at the time that wasn't copyrighted

Comments section, hell yeah

In the newer videos I'm better at editing.

@@bakerRebuilds I can relate when it comes to stuff like that. Story of my life actually 😂😂😂

The parts once installed should be fine as is, I don't think anything else is needed with rocker arms or lifters however the V6 has overhead cams. The v8 has lifters and pushrods. Hope you haven't purchased a wrong part.

@@bakerRebuilds The 3.5 has a "Rocker Arm" type lifter, with a roller on the camshaft, the pivot between the camshaft and the valve, and a Hydraulic "Tappet" that has a spring, keeper, and oil pocket that pushes on the valve itself. Having said that, I bought the right part.

@user-qx1wl2um2k Oh good, yeah personally I've just oiled them up good when assembling, torqued to spec and good to go.

Assuming it has nothing you could upgrade the suspension, wheels and brakes to make it faster through corners. A diablo tuner might make it a bit faster especially if you have a few bolt ons. Other than that you could turbo it but that's expensive and a lot of work, up to you. Good luck on the car!

Not sure what book you're looking at but the Chilton Chrysler manual specifies it as shown in the video for the 5.7l V8.

@@bakerRebuildsI used the Hanes manual and it runs great but I think either way works because I did the opposite maybe also my engine is a 2011

@@gunsmoke487 Curious hah wonder if it does

Please don't stop the music 🎶

Nice! They've served me well

The result is the same.

Thank you! The 3.5L in 06-2010 chargers is chryslers EGG engine. The pentastar started in 2011 and is still currently used. Some torque specs are probably different for the 2011-2014 chargers. I'd recommend still double checking just to be safe.

Thanks for the comment!

They will not move easily no

Glad it helped, good luck with the project!

Learning a new skill is challenging

Sorry I'm not sure. I didn't know what they were for and since then our V6 has been sold. A shop should be able to tell you if they're not stingy about it.

Thank you! Hope they're helpful!

@@bakerRebuilds very much so I’m currently about to replace the fuel injectors spark plugs and coil packs also a oil change

The dipstick just has an o-ring and is inserted into the pan. It has 2 bolts that's hold it onto the side of the engine block so you don't necessarily have to remove it.

i still havent removed the oil pan Where exactly do i have to jack the engine from? i took off the oil dipstick thanks

Thanks! Try turning on closed captions or check out my newer content.

We had the fuel pump relay removed so the readings were true. Other than that all plugs out would allow the starter to turn the motor more easily.

I believe I had the crossmember in the engine bay loose as well for more clearance. Not sure if that was noted in this video. Once you remove the plastic cowl by the windshield wipers it's just 4 bolts to loosen. Also play with every angle possible to get the pan out. It is a beyond tricky fit.

Thank you!!

For the v6, we just reused them as they were. Knowing what I know now I think it's well worth it to have a shop check for bent valves, weak springs and replace all the valve stem seals. Our v8 we had the heads gone through and it had two bent valves with about 170k miles. Bad intake valve stem seals can lead to burning oil so especially with higher mileage I'd have them gone over.

It was both I believe.