Видео

I actually did a whole video on how I paint my engraved pieces: ruclips.net/video/SSlVTIK3JJI/видео.html

@@meepleswoodworking Wow, thanks!

You are welcome! I always love seeing what other people come up with.

@@meepleswoodworking I'll share when I get my first round of tcg products out! I just got a watch press and sense I'll be doing a lot of joinery with deck boxes and DND boxes I picked up a small 10lb anvil and rubber mallet.

Personally, the finish with a 3D Printed part isn't nearly as good as a laser cut part, and 3D printing takes much longer to manufacture than lasering. Not to mention, from a process standpoint, if I want to make a ship, I now need to upload a file and prepare two separate machines rather than one. It's far more efficient to run one manufacturing process than two, so all 3D printed or all laser cut unless there is a specific reason to do both. On something this small, you'd spend more time in setup of the files than actual manufacturing. There are certainly folks that make fully 3D printed ships, 3D printing is not my jam, but they have had good success with fully 3D printed ships. Now, as far as shipping stuff in booster packs, shipping is certainly a concern for myself as I have a few people that order ships from me. The laser cut pieces all fit in a small bag such as a 2x3" zip top bag and then a bubble mailer. If I 3D printed a hull, more than likely I would have to switch to shipping the ships in boxes instead of bubble mailers, which costs more in shipping materials and weight (shipping cost). I enjoyed the challenge of bending wood, it was a fun experience for me to figure out, but is too fiddly and time consuming for much of a mass-production. In most cases, a simple 3D printed ship is cheaper and simpler than a wooden one, and that's fine. Thank you for your thoughts!

@@meepleswoodworking Oh, I was not aware that you ship models out! Cool! Will have to explore your channel a bit more!

Tolerances mean all of it, unfortunately. If the material thickness changes, then the fit in the slot will change. Also have to account for how close we cut the slot to the material thickness.

@@meepleswoodworking Makes sense, thanks!

With great power comes great responsibility!

It's two separate dials, though I did have a geared counter I made prototypes of but wasn't accurate enough counting and was quite bulky.

I'd recommend www.youtube.com/@a7xfanben (a7xfanben's channel), he has way more content that is focused on the game as a whole and there's a lot to be said for simple naval combat.

I think there is certainly a strategy to be had where you steal the treasure they have already collected, I think some Longships even let you take 2 treasures at a time.

That's certainly the good thing about a playgroup - you can determine what are and are not allowed to play. Right now I don't have a play group, but we certainly had games when I played a lot "no sea monsters" or "no cancellers" just depending on how we wanted to play. The base rule set was the key part, having fun is the goal!

The laser I used for the video is one I designed and built myself. I've recently replaced it with an OMtech. If you want one yourself, it all depends on your space and your budget. A solid entry-level one will be around $2000. Less than that is a lot of compromises.

@@meepleswoodworking so it’s a co2 laser? You should do a video on how you make the small circle plastic parts you show on the painting video. Thanks again

@@Dr.G Yes it is a CO2 laser, sorry I didn't make that clear. Diode lasers, in my experience, just can't handle the nice finishes on acrylic like a CO2 laser can, but are fine for wood. CO2 is also a lot faster than Diode, but typically slower than Fiber laser. Fiber lasers are a whole different setup, typically for metals. I had started a review of my new machine but never finished it due to IRL stuff.

@@meepleswoodworking Great thanks, I'm looking at the desktop polar. What do you think. I want to engrave letters on acrylic, like I mentioned.

@@Dr.G I'd check out this video, I've watched it and enjoy his content. ruclips.net/video/CF6LT8tOeg4/видео.html I'd say make sure you watch a lot of videos on what you want and make sure it does what you want it to. I have an OMTech E060

I make them and sell them on my site! www.meepleswoodworking.com/product/colored-magnetic-maneuver-sticks-for-pirates-csg/109

@@meepleswoodworking so cool. I'll be buying some soon

Do they still make these?

@@pete8299 link still works 🤷

8000 grit, which is the finest grit I've found of that brand of polishing paper. There's a link in the description if you want to find some.

Hey thanks for reaching out. My machine is currently down, and I have a new one coming this week. Once I get it set up, I'll open up again!

Thank you!

I've seen some pieces crack, but they tended to be soaked in alcohol, or already stressed by a press fit. Just using the paint and wiping it off hasn't caused cracking, and I've made quite a few pieces that way. I use the 70% isopropyl just because that's what I have, higher concentrations might be different so that's something to consider.

I used to play a ton as well back when it was still in print. Hard to find anyone to play with now that ships are several dollars apiece. I've made a few, but without artwork its just not the same.

Good question! I have Rubbing Alcohol in my squeeze bottle. Water won't affect the alcohol pen once it dries, which is one reason I like it.

Houston Acrylic! houstonacrylic.com/products/textured-fluorescent-green-acrylic

Yes, I get quite a bit of use out of mine. Some pieces are rougher on the polishing paper than others. I can get 100s of smaller pieces from one sheet, but there's some that are a serrated profile that I only get a few dozen with.

@@meepleswoodworking awesome! Thanks for the quick reply.

You can use masking tape flat on your thumb to scrape the edge of the masking off so you don't risk scratching the product with a knife. Once the two sticky sides meet, the masking will come right off. If you insist on using a knife, use something sharper than a spoon as depicted in the video. I recommend an Olfa SVR-2 9mm knife like we use in the sign shop.

@@PacesIII I'm going to have to try that masking tape technique. I typically peel masking before engraving anymore, so it isn't as big of a deal.

@@meepleswoodworking I work in a sign shop. I found that finger picking leads to nasty smudges where you picked and knives can scratch. Two taped surfaces are tough to get apart and give a great start on masking. The smudge tape may leave is easier to remove as well .

So I actually avoid Amazon due to issues like this. I picked mine up at Hobby Lobby. I really like these markers, not only out of the package, but you can also screw them apart and refill them. I bought a bottle of the Pinata White alcohol ink and I've made hundreds of counters at this point and I'm not even halfway through the bottle. I've added the link to the marker in the description! Thank you for your comment.

@@meepleswoodworking thanks for your quick reply. I am in Canada and we don't have Hobby Lobby, unfortunately. Can you please tell me the brand of marker so I can cross reference where I might be able to source?

@@tubehead204 So the ones I get are Hobby Lobby brand. I did a little looking, and I think these would be a suitable (if not better) replacement. Keep in mind, I haven't used it. This site also ships to Canada and has the Pinata inks that I use. Next time I need a refill, I'll be trying this out as well. www.markersupply.com/montana-empty-refillable-marker-3mm-chisel-tip.html

I really appreciate the feedback! I'll have to see if I can find some of the paints you talked about and make a little better finish for acrylics.

Started at the top and went down from there! Revenant is a solid ship though.

Heh, I remember buying Ocean's Edge for $3/pack at the store. We'd by a few packs and just sit down and play with them.

I've gotten a few steals on eBay but anymore, some packs are seriously $100+ per pack. Revolution at least pretty cheap still, close to the $4/pack it was when it was out.

Each card should have a corner with a rarity assigned to it. Black - Super Rare Yellow/Gold - Rare Silver - Uncommon Red - Common White - Generic Green - Special/Limited Edition Copper - Special/Limited Edition Also, the first set wasn't consistent with this color scheme (tan cards). First edition didn't have any rarity corners, Unlimited Edition had some with a brass color instead of silver for Uncommon. There's a discord I can invite you to if you want to post pictures with specific questions.

Thanks for the quick response...I think this guide and the video will clear up some of the confusion. One question...what does Unlimited designate? I find the phrase Limited Edition everywhere but not UL and I have Revolution items marked with UL and a pack-in guide from WK marked as UL

@@conflictmagazine A few sets were reprinted as an "Unlimited" edition, with a UL on the collectors number. Functionally identical. Spanish Main, Revolution, and Barbary Coast had UL prints.

Got it...thanks for the update.

Thank you! I think factory sets are so rare at this point, I'd rather someone assume it is unpunched and then be pleasantly surprised. I store 95% of my stuff recarded or unpunched since it can take up a lot of space to store everything punched.

I wish I had Jimmy Legs to be able to do that. The original UPS I based this on didn't have the helmsman, but that's a good point. Really just wanted to show how this one works since its so complicated. And so I can beat it into the ground next video!

@@meepleswoodworking Which UPS fleet did you base it on?

@@a7xfanben It's been a bit, took me a while to actually find it. I think UPS 2

I don’t know if even a Sea Dragon could stop it. By the time it is lined up for a swoop attack, the Hai Peng will be long gone.

@@perditusthornatus6518 Not if you use Lord Mycron, since then the dragon can essentially move and shoot in one turn. No need for a swoop attack.

Typically, no. But there are several crew such as Captain Charles Richard from Savage Shores and Jonah from Crimson Coast that let you "ignore" the ship's point limit but always take up cargo space and have a chance when you get hit of being flung to a nearby island.

Reminds me at some point I need to do a vid on "effective" range. Pretty sure there's a counter to every strategy, especially if someone pulls Mermaids or UPS out.

@@meepleswoodworking True, though I suppose it's a good thing or else there could be a broken or unbeatable fleet strategy. Even UPS might falter against a mach speed Hidden Coved San Cristobal (plus Odin's Revenge and other negative UT's might help), and FotG can deal with mermaids.

@@a7xfanben I think even a sea dragon + mycron could take out Hai Peng. So yeah, gets first island but then gets sunk. Its all about how hard you lean into a counterplay

@@meepleswoodworking Yup. Dragon still has to hit 3/4 times to sink it which is no guarantee. But it's likely a good counter. The question from there is if the ~19 remaining points are enough to beat the rest of UPS in the time remaining.

@@a7xfanben Sounds like I need a UPS & Counter-UPS video! Thanks for the idea haha

I agree completely! It's fun to have a wooden ship or two, but for someone who plays a lot, it's good to have some cheap alternatives.

I hadn't noticed that specific errata before. At 3 points, that's a tough sell. The LE versions are only one-offs, so I probably wouldn't use those either but I suppose you could stack those in too? Re: Graph, thank you! I might use some similar stuff in the future.

@@meepleswoodworking Exploding can still be pretty good, I'd say it's worth it in higher point games or with stacked gunships that have a 2L to fire it from. good point, since the ability text is different you should be able to stack the LE versions with others of the same name, though I'll check with Woelf to make sure.