Dilute acrylics with water before applying it. Water evaporates and the acrylics bond like a glue to the rough groove. Miniature acrylics you used do not have primer (to create a rougher surface to bond with), nor varnish (to seal off the paint from rain), as this is a technical paint we use to mix colors and do gradients. Rubbing alcohol makes acrylics smudgy and cloudy and shouldnt be used with acrylics. Put some drops of medium gloss in it or varnish afterwards. It will seal it incredibly well. Everything else you said is very helpful!
A helpful tip for you... Use the masking technique but use an aerosol plastic primer, then use acrylic spray paint. Peel the large part of the masking off as normal, then cover the whole piece with hi-tac tape and squeegee it down. When you peel it off it will remove all the small centres.
Great vid. I'm interested in doing some engraving on acrylic with a laser. What kind of laser do you have? I see the fine detailed lettering on those wheels and I might want to do something similar. Can you recommend any smaller home use lasers that would help me out. Thanks in advance.
The laser I used for the video is one I designed and built myself. I've recently replaced it with an OMtech. If you want one yourself, it all depends on your space and your budget. A solid entry-level one will be around $2000. Less than that is a lot of compromises.
@@meepleswoodworking so it’s a co2 laser? You should do a video on how you make the small circle plastic parts you show on the painting video. Thanks again
@@Dr.G Yes it is a CO2 laser, sorry I didn't make that clear. Diode lasers, in my experience, just can't handle the nice finishes on acrylic like a CO2 laser can, but are fine for wood. CO2 is also a lot faster than Diode, but typically slower than Fiber laser. Fiber lasers are a whole different setup, typically for metals. I had started a review of my new machine but never finished it due to IRL stuff.
@@Dr.G I'd check out this video, I've watched it and enjoy his content. ruclips.net/video/CF6LT8tOeg4/видео.html I'd say make sure you watch a lot of videos on what you want and make sure it does what you want it to. I have an OMTech E060
To be honest, I'm not totally sure how it would hold up in sunlight and the harsh environment of outdoors. Certainly better than Acrylic, which isn't waterproof. You could also clear coat it with something, but I don't do a lot of outdoors.
So I finally got to checking into this (we got hit by Helene...), I tried some alcohol markers I have on a dark engraved acrylic, and you can't see anything. I would expect the colors really only sort of work on white acrylic, but the pigments are different so they don't really stand out at all. I would go with the alcohol paint markers, the alcohol markers just don't show up.
They're just Alcohol Ink Paint Pens, hobby lobby brand. www.hobbylobby.com/crafts-hobbies/craft-paint-stencils/paint-pens/paint-pens---12-piece-set/p/81150748. Can't find individual ones online anymore, but the link is for a set.
I've seen some pieces crack, but they tended to be soaked in alcohol, or already stressed by a press fit. Just using the paint and wiping it off hasn't caused cracking, and I've made quite a few pieces that way. I use the 70% isopropyl just because that's what I have, higher concentrations might be different so that's something to consider.
So I actually avoid Amazon due to issues like this. I picked mine up at Hobby Lobby. I really like these markers, not only out of the package, but you can also screw them apart and refill them. I bought a bottle of the Pinata White alcohol ink and I've made hundreds of counters at this point and I'm not even halfway through the bottle. I've added the link to the marker in the description! Thank you for your comment.
@@meepleswoodworking thanks for your quick reply. I am in Canada and we don't have Hobby Lobby, unfortunately. Can you please tell me the brand of marker so I can cross reference where I might be able to source?
@@tubehead204 So the ones I get are Hobby Lobby brand. I did a little looking, and I think these would be a suitable (if not better) replacement. Keep in mind, I haven't used it. This site also ships to Canada and has the Pinata inks that I use. Next time I need a refill, I'll be trying this out as well. www.markersupply.com/montana-empty-refillable-marker-3mm-chisel-tip.html
Yes, I get quite a bit of use out of mine. Some pieces are rougher on the polishing paper than others. I can get 100s of smaller pieces from one sheet, but there's some that are a serrated profile that I only get a few dozen with.
You can use masking tape flat on your thumb to scrape the edge of the masking off so you don't risk scratching the product with a knife. Once the two sticky sides meet, the masking will come right off. If you insist on using a knife, use something sharper than a spoon as depicted in the video. I recommend an Olfa SVR-2 9mm knife like we use in the sign shop.
@@meepleswoodworking I work in a sign shop. I found that finger picking leads to nasty smudges where you picked and knives can scratch. Two taped surfaces are tough to get apart and give a great start on masking. The smudge tape may leave is easier to remove as well .
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Wow, so much good information! Thank you so much, you have no idea how helpful this is!
polishing paper just earned my subscription great tip thanks so much
Huge helpful video. I got the Hobby-Lobby paint pens and this works exactly like I want.
Thank you!
Dilute acrylics with water before applying it.
Water evaporates and the acrylics bond like a glue to the rough groove. Miniature acrylics you used do not have primer (to create a rougher surface to bond with), nor varnish (to seal off the paint from rain), as this is a technical paint we use to mix colors and do gradients.
Rubbing alcohol makes acrylics smudgy and cloudy and shouldnt be used with acrylics. Put some drops of medium gloss in it or varnish afterwards. It will seal it incredibly well.
Everything else you said is very helpful!
I really appreciate the feedback! I'll have to see if I can find some of the paints you talked about and make a little better finish for acrylics.
A helpful tip for you... Use the masking technique but use an aerosol plastic primer, then use acrylic spray paint. Peel the large part of the masking off as normal, then cover the whole piece with hi-tac tape and squeegee it down. When you peel it off it will remove all the small centres.
Really helpful video. Thank you!
Good video! I was leaving the masking on and spray painting but now I’ll go to alcohol inks
Great vid. I'm interested in doing some engraving on acrylic with a laser. What kind of laser do you have? I see the fine detailed lettering on those wheels and I might want to do something similar. Can you recommend any smaller home use lasers that would help me out. Thanks in advance.
The laser I used for the video is one I designed and built myself. I've recently replaced it with an OMtech. If you want one yourself, it all depends on your space and your budget. A solid entry-level one will be around $2000. Less than that is a lot of compromises.
@@meepleswoodworking so it’s a co2 laser? You should do a video on how you make the small circle plastic parts you show on the painting video. Thanks again
@@Dr.G Yes it is a CO2 laser, sorry I didn't make that clear. Diode lasers, in my experience, just can't handle the nice finishes on acrylic like a CO2 laser can, but are fine for wood. CO2 is also a lot faster than Diode, but typically slower than Fiber laser. Fiber lasers are a whole different setup, typically for metals. I had started a review of my new machine but never finished it due to IRL stuff.
@@meepleswoodworking Great thanks, I'm looking at the desktop polar. What do you think. I want to engrave letters on acrylic, like I mentioned.
@@Dr.G I'd check out this video, I've watched it and enjoy his content. ruclips.net/video/CF6LT8tOeg4/видео.html
I'd say make sure you watch a lot of videos on what you want and make sure it does what you want it to. I have an OMTech E060
How well would the alcohol ink hold up outdoors. Wanting to paint fill acrylic for custom license plates
To be honest, I'm not totally sure how it would hold up in sunlight and the harsh environment of outdoors. Certainly better than Acrylic, which isn't waterproof. You could also clear coat it with something, but I don't do a lot of outdoors.
I am wanting to paint fill acrylic Stanley toppers. Will Copic or Chameleon markers work like the marker you have? Thank you.
So I finally got to checking into this (we got hit by Helene...), I tried some alcohol markers I have on a dark engraved acrylic, and you can't see anything. I would expect the colors really only sort of work on white acrylic, but the pigments are different so they don't really stand out at all. I would go with the alcohol paint markers, the alcohol markers just don't show up.
Could you tell me the name of the inc marker that you used for this?I'm trying to find it. At hobby lobby.
They're just Alcohol Ink Paint Pens, hobby lobby brand. www.hobbylobby.com/crafts-hobbies/craft-paint-stencils/paint-pens/paint-pens---12-piece-set/p/81150748. Can't find individual ones online anymore, but the link is for a set.
@@meepleswoodworking Thank you !
You could try spraying them with a sealer and the acrylic paint should last longer.
Does the use of alcohol based paint and cleaner produce cracking on your acrylic?
I've seen some pieces crack, but they tended to be soaked in alcohol, or already stressed by a press fit. Just using the paint and wiping it off hasn't caused cracking, and I've made quite a few pieces that way. I use the 70% isopropyl just because that's what I have, higher concentrations might be different so that's something to consider.
With the alcohol pens and polishing paper, did you wet the paper with rubbing alcohol or just water?
Good question! I have Rubbing Alcohol in my squeeze bottle. Water won't affect the alcohol pen once it dries, which is one reason I like it.
What grit polishing paper are you using for the acrylic?
8000 grit, which is the finest grit I've found of that brand of polishing paper. There's a link in the description if you want to find some.
Hello, What brand of alcohol markers do you recommend? Amazon is FLOODED with them.
So I actually avoid Amazon due to issues like this. I picked mine up at Hobby Lobby. I really like these markers, not only out of the package, but you can also screw them apart and refill them. I bought a bottle of the Pinata White alcohol ink and I've made hundreds of counters at this point and I'm not even halfway through the bottle. I've added the link to the marker in the description! Thank you for your comment.
@@meepleswoodworking thanks for your quick reply. I am in Canada and we don't have Hobby Lobby, unfortunately. Can you please tell me the brand of marker so I can cross reference where I might be able to source?
@@tubehead204 So the ones I get are Hobby Lobby brand. I did a little looking, and I think these would be a suitable (if not better) replacement. Keep in mind, I haven't used it. This site also ships to Canada and has the Pinata inks that I use. Next time I need a refill, I'll be trying this out as well. www.markersupply.com/montana-empty-refillable-marker-3mm-chisel-tip.html
Does the polishing paper sheet last a long time? As in, can it be reused?
Yes, I get quite a bit of use out of mine. Some pieces are rougher on the polishing paper than others. I can get 100s of smaller pieces from one sheet, but there's some that are a serrated profile that I only get a few dozen with.
@@meepleswoodworking awesome! Thanks for the quick reply.
Use duct tape to remove masking from everywhere in one go :)
You can use masking tape flat on your thumb to scrape the edge of the masking off so you don't risk scratching the product with a knife. Once the two sticky sides meet, the masking will come right off. If you insist on using a knife, use something sharper than a spoon as depicted in the video. I recommend an Olfa SVR-2 9mm knife like we use in the sign shop.
@@PacesIII I'm going to have to try that masking tape technique. I typically peel masking before engraving anymore, so it isn't as big of a deal.
@@meepleswoodworking
I work in a sign shop. I found that finger picking leads to nasty smudges where you picked and knives can scratch. Two taped surfaces are tough to get apart and give a great start on masking. The smudge tape may leave is easier to remove as well .