what do you think about using epoxy resin stuff on the seams, that stuff similar to JB weld / liquid metal, better than sealant? Also thoughts on using roof gutter sealant?
My 2009 Mk 7 suffered same water problem, removed rear light rubber gasket and used Silkaflex EBT+ to reseal onto fitting also between body and rubber, did as on video for safety but not sure this was problem....watertight for now. Ford should make a replacement rubber seal available for the rear light fittings.
Please could you tell me what you did you fix this particular car? Was it just a matter of replacing the seal which runs around the edge of the boot door?
How much do you guys charge ? Got the same car; but the leak is behind the front passenger seat. My dealership said it was the door rubber seal however my carpets are still soaked ? Would appreciate a quote thank you.
We have a system. What usually happens is that you pay £150 for an inspection. We do a 28 point check plus checking all the points which are known trouble areas for your make and model of car. At the end of this we will have found at least one leak, we provide you with a video report, written and an estimate. A lot of our customers have told us that the go to the dealers/mechanic and they say, "It's the rubbers", they fix that and yet the leak persists, they go back again and have something else fixed, and then they find a leak somewhere else. It is not unusual for customers to tell us they have been back to the dealership 3-4 times, so our system aims to eliminate all this messing about. So our inspection is the route we recommend because when cars get to a certain age, they tend to develop multiple leaks and it's best to try and catch them all. (You will notice that if you look at our videos, many of the cars are 10-15 years old). You can understand that if the door rubbers are perished on the passenger side, the rubbers on the driver's side are the same age and likely to be close to the same condition. So we would recommend doing both sides, if indeed it is the rubbers... i would also be suspicious of the door membranes and Fiesta's tend to leak at the seams. The last one we did earlier this week had about 8 leaks. Alternatively, if you have already had the dealership fix the leak and you are confident it is fixed, we can dry your car. Even this can be difficult for us to quote without seeing the car, but our 15 hour overnight dry is probably be a good option. Our prices are here: cars.newagain.co.uk/car-water-leak.asp#drying
@@CarWaterLeaksFound Is there a warranty with your service ? I’ve just bought the car back in October, so I don’t understand why i’ve been sold a car not fit for purpose ? The dealership didn’t even fully dry my carpets.
@@nora5469 As it says on our website, when it comes to water leaks, there are no guarantees. That's just the nature of the work. Of course, all our repairs are guaranteed, but the simple truth is that most cars leak because of age. The plasticizers in rubber seals and grommets dry out, they shrink and crack, and let in water. All these parts on your car are the same age and will all be effected. For every ten cars we do, on average one of them comes back to us because it's still leaking. What we do in these cases is to check our work to make sure any repairs we have carried out have been done properly. And if those repairs are all good, we then have to go looking for the next leak. We don't charge for another inspection and this time we will dry the car for free, but we do charge an hourly rate for finding and repairing new leaks. It isn't particularly unusual for us to run up against cars which have 6-8 different leaks and usually we can fairly quickly identify that we are dealing with a "problem car" so we can try our hardest to get it right first time. I hope you can understand that if you have a car which has water gushing through the doors and has two inches of water in the footwells, it's pretty much impossible to spot the slow drip running down the back of the rubber foot plates. It's only once you have fixed the big problems and got the car dry that the smaller problems become apparent, especially as some leaks only materialize under certain circumstances such as parking at a certain angle or driving at a certain speed. This is actually pretty difficult and we have to work hard to make sure all our customers go away happy. As you have found out, dealerships are not equipped for drying cars, garages are reluctant to take on leaks and consider them a can of worms where they have to be hard on the customer or risk losing money. Gary had recorded an audiogram with advice about what to do if you have bought a leaky car from a dealership. I'll edit together and find somewhere to upload it later today and post a link.
@@newagainautoreconditioning Perfect, thank you. I’ll hopefully get it sorted this week with you guys! I look forward to the video upload. Much appreciated.
@@nora5469 Sorry about the audio quality, it was supposed to be just a draft we would edit down and re-record later. But seeing as this is the second time this issue has arisen this week.... ruclips.net/video/TG6C5xyn190/видео.html
Hi, the pattern is exactly the same on my car. Damp boot floor and rear seat foot well, with with water accumulated on the side, at the exact location of the fluorescent water pool in the video. I have sealed the tailights, but I wasn't sure about the seams. It is unclear from your video, are you suggesting to seal the whole length of the seam, or just the top corner at the box section? Thank you in advance.
I have to say in advance that the purpose of this channel is to show where the leaks are, not how to fix them as there can be different fixing options, at different levels and different price points. In the videos you see here, the customer has paid us to find the leaks and provide an estimate -- they may not hire us to fix the leak, they might to just get rid of the car through an auction, they might send it to the dealership or it might need to go to a bodyshop. Having said that, your goal is to seal the hole and stop the leak, so you'll have to do whatever works. Personally I would get a sealant of your choice (there are sealants similar to the ones the manufacturer uses in the factory, but there are other waterproof sealants that would work made for bathrooms, kitchens, plumbing, fishtanks etc). You can mask out the area if you want to, run a bead over the whole seal, push it into the seam, wipe away the excess... and if you really want to, and the sealant is appropriate, you can prime and repaint over it so it looks like a factory finish. If there was any rust, you might also want to take the actions needed to treat the area with a rust inhibitor. As a business, we would shy away from running a bead of sealant along every seam we can find because this would look unsightly, we don't like repairs to look like obvious repairs. Instead we would try to find the exact point where a hole has appeared in the seam and just fix that. However, the nature of the way these seems are made means capillary action will draw water into any slight crack and as the car keeps flexing, more cracks will appear. You just have to do what works for you.
See my comment re 2009 Mk 7. I would bet its the rear light rubber seal, they get compressed especially if removed for new bulb and replaced. Good waterproof sealant did it for me. Worth a try for little cost.
@@kayserbondor i suspect it’s the rear light cluster too. took the boot floor out for a week to see where it was coming from seemed to be near side tail lights might just leave it to the next person
Where are you guys based? I have a 2009 fiesta with a leak but I can't find it 😒
Chelmsford, Essex. cars.newagain.co.uk/contact.asp
Top demo of where the water is getting in
Bro thanks for the video it was the same leak💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽
I have the same car, same problem, I will try to do the same and I hope it will sort the problem out.
Great idea with the dye
what do you think about using epoxy resin stuff on the seams, that stuff similar to JB weld / liquid metal, better than sealant? Also thoughts on using roof gutter sealant?
My 2009 Mk 7 suffered same water problem, removed rear light rubber gasket and used Silkaflex EBT+ to reseal onto fitting also between body and rubber, did as on video for safety but not sure this was problem....watertight for now.
Ford should make a replacement rubber seal available for the rear light fittings.
They do! I just ordered a genuine one on ebay for 6 quid. Part number is 1894452
Yes, you are correct I got one at a local Ford dealer.
Fantastic video, cheers mate🙏🏼
Please could you tell me what you did you fix this particular car? Was it just a matter of replacing the seal which runs around the edge of the boot door?
Yes, put a weld sealant on it.
@@newagainautoreconditioning sorry, where exactly did you put the weld sealant? My car has the exact same leak
Great video thanks
2011 fiesta crack found end of gutter seal. Half inch crack in paint work. 👍
How much do you guys charge ? Got the same car; but the leak is behind the front passenger seat. My dealership said it was the door rubber seal however my carpets are still soaked ? Would appreciate a quote thank you.
We have a system. What usually happens is that you pay £150 for an inspection. We do a 28 point check plus checking all the points which are known trouble areas for your make and model of car. At the end of this we will have found at least one leak, we provide you with a video report, written and an estimate.
A lot of our customers have told us that the go to the dealers/mechanic and they say, "It's the rubbers", they fix that and yet the leak persists, they go back again and have something else fixed, and then they find a leak somewhere else. It is not unusual for customers to tell us they have been back to the dealership 3-4 times, so our system aims to eliminate all this messing about.
So our inspection is the route we recommend because when cars get to a certain age, they tend to develop multiple leaks and it's best to try and catch them all. (You will notice that if you look at our videos, many of the cars are 10-15 years old).
You can understand that if the door rubbers are perished on the passenger side, the rubbers on the driver's side are the same age and likely to be close to the same condition. So we would recommend doing both sides, if indeed it is the rubbers... i would also be suspicious of the door membranes and Fiesta's tend to leak at the seams. The last one we did earlier this week had about 8 leaks.
Alternatively, if you have already had the dealership fix the leak and you are confident it is fixed, we can dry your car. Even this can be difficult for us to quote without seeing the car, but our 15 hour overnight dry is probably be a good option. Our prices are here: cars.newagain.co.uk/car-water-leak.asp#drying
@@CarWaterLeaksFound Is there a warranty with your service ? I’ve just bought the car back in October, so I don’t understand why i’ve been sold a car not fit for purpose ? The dealership didn’t even fully dry my carpets.
@@nora5469 As it says on our website, when it comes to water leaks, there are no guarantees. That's just the nature of the work.
Of course, all our repairs are guaranteed, but the simple truth is that most cars leak because of age. The plasticizers in rubber seals and grommets dry out, they shrink and crack, and let in water. All these parts on your car are the same age and will all be effected.
For every ten cars we do, on average one of them comes back to us because it's still leaking. What we do in these cases is to check our work to make sure any repairs we have carried out have been done properly. And if those repairs are all good, we then have to go looking for the next leak. We don't charge for another inspection and this time we will dry the car for free, but we do charge an hourly rate for finding and repairing new leaks.
It isn't particularly unusual for us to run up against cars which have 6-8 different leaks and usually we can fairly quickly identify that we are dealing with a "problem car" so we can try our hardest to get it right first time. I hope you can understand that if you have a car which has water gushing through the doors and has two inches of water in the footwells, it's pretty much impossible to spot the slow drip running down the back of the rubber foot plates. It's only once you have fixed the big problems and got the car dry that the smaller problems become apparent, especially as some leaks only materialize under certain circumstances such as parking at a certain angle or driving at a certain speed.
This is actually pretty difficult and we have to work hard to make sure all our customers go away happy. As you have found out, dealerships are not equipped for drying cars, garages are reluctant to take on leaks and consider them a can of worms where they have to be hard on the customer or risk losing money.
Gary had recorded an audiogram with advice about what to do if you have bought a leaky car from a dealership. I'll edit together and find somewhere to upload it later today and post a link.
@@newagainautoreconditioning Perfect, thank you. I’ll hopefully get it sorted this week with you guys! I look forward to the video upload. Much appreciated.
@@nora5469 Sorry about the audio quality, it was supposed to be just a draft we would edit down and re-record later. But seeing as this is the second time this issue has arisen this week.... ruclips.net/video/TG6C5xyn190/видео.html
Hi, the pattern is exactly the same on my car. Damp boot floor and rear seat foot well, with with water accumulated on the side, at the exact location of the fluorescent water pool in the video. I have sealed the tailights, but I wasn't sure about the seams. It is unclear from your video, are you suggesting to seal the whole length of the seam, or just the top corner at the box section? Thank you in advance.
I have to say in advance that the purpose of this channel is to show where the leaks are, not how to fix them as there can be different fixing options, at different levels and different price points. In the videos you see here, the customer has paid us to find the leaks and provide an estimate -- they may not hire us to fix the leak, they might to just get rid of the car through an auction, they might send it to the dealership or it might need to go to a bodyshop.
Having said that, your goal is to seal the hole and stop the leak, so you'll have to do whatever works. Personally I would get a sealant of your choice (there are sealants similar to the ones the manufacturer uses in the factory, but there are other waterproof sealants that would work made for bathrooms, kitchens, plumbing, fishtanks etc). You can mask out the area if you want to, run a bead over the whole seal, push it into the seam, wipe away the excess... and if you really want to, and the sealant is appropriate, you can prime and repaint over it so it looks like a factory finish. If there was any rust, you might also want to take the actions needed to treat the area with a rust inhibitor.
As a business, we would shy away from running a bead of sealant along every seam we can find because this would look unsightly, we don't like repairs to look like obvious repairs. Instead we would try to find the exact point where a hole has appeared in the seam and just fix that. However, the nature of the way these seems are made means capillary action will draw water into any slight crack and as the car keeps flexing, more cracks will appear.
You just have to do what works for you.
See my comment re 2009 Mk 7. I would bet its the rear light rubber seal, they get compressed especially if removed for new bulb and replaced.
Good waterproof sealant did it for me. Worth a try for little cost.
@@kayserbondor i suspect it’s the rear light cluster too. took the boot floor out for a week to see where it was coming from seemed to be near side tail lights might just leave it to the next person
How much hp have a 2009 Ford fiesta?
Funny my car is 2018 and the spoiler on the trunk was my problem. Thanks Ford for continuing to suck for years.
disaster
He's a boomer. I keep telling him to film in landscape...