91B here. We usually use a screwdriver and a hammer to take the plates off and a bottle jack to push out the U joint. I remove FMTV driveshafts for towing on a weekly basis and you just made my life a LOT easier.
Thanks my friend... I just found a new way to do it that is a little quicker and saves having to pop the top plate off the cap. Use a crow bar to push the driveshaft so that the cap and plate a pushed out together. Once they are removed, use the crow bar to push the driveshaft in the opposite direction. Remove that cap and plate, and the driveshaft will come out with a little positioning of the U-joint. Glad I could help a brother in need. Many blessing and be safe on the roads!
People say to me, "No way could a former Army pilot and Chief Warrant Officer not be serious!" I just say, "Broke that mold!" Thanks for watching, more hi-jinx to come.
You got it, Trent. Thanks for watching and remaining one of the viewers that are so interactive with the channel. It really does help get the word out.
I have replaced hundreds of drive shafts and u joints. Just take a three pound short handle hammer and hit the heavy cast part of the u joint one you do not want to remove pushing towards one side remove that cap and push toward the other the side . FYI leave the caps with bolt holes on makes life easier.
Dang it, Bill! Where do you live? I could have used some of your expertise last weekend... I still don't understand why the face plates are attached to the cups. I see no extra value doing that... do you know why?
All I can tell the cape are attached at the factory to aid in assembly. I leave them on so I can wire them to the U joint to keep everything together through the bolt holes. They are helpful to use to turn with large channel locks to finish removing cap by twisting and pulling. On reassembly clean yolk with scotch brite etc. I always put a small amount or antiseize inside the yoke to help if I have to remove it again. I am in Indiana so far away. Also try to find a used palette jack makes tire changing easier an you can move product around when you pick it up. You have a crane on the back to raise it and remove it. I picked up the one I have a a trucking firm some one did not want when they quit Free stuff look around get at least a 3500lb capacity or bigger.
@@billwheawill6544 I was trying to think like an Engineer, why the face plates are attached to the cup. I think I have figured it out. I have found plates intact with their cups and some not intact. It really makes no difference, as they serve one purpose... to hold the U-joint cup in place (like a split ring). I believe they are attached to "dummy proof" soldier maintenance. The problem being, you have to pull the yoke instead of pushing the yoke... which is 5 times harder to accomplish without a very special tool. As for me, I wouldn't mind breaking all of my face plates off the cups. It just makes things easier for me. My crane is limited to 1500 pounds. I've used it a few times... they are handy! Thank you, Bill for the added advice and explanations... I hope you continue to watch to keep me headed down the right path.
By the looks of things, the expectations ebbed and flowed. See a problem, find a solution. Keep sticking to the man with the high prices, Dave. I'll keep my fingers crossed, too.
Dave, word to the wise, great effort tho, fab,ed that same thing up years ago and pulled the threads out of yoke, second the caps are welded to the cups to prevent the cups from spinning in the yokes and wearing the hole.The idea is that the cups will indeed seize slightly in the yoke and the grease and bearings will take the wear and tear, or lack of wear, will be minimized by the grease. Good Stuff God Bless You.
I have since found an easier way to do this... use a crow bar after removing the two bolts holding on the plates... and pry against the drive yoke and push out a cup with the plate in tact. Then pry on the opposite side, and remove the second cap. Maneuver the U-joint up into one of the open cap cavities, and slide the unit out. SO much easier. Many blessings on your next project!
Good Job. An advantage/purpose of having the plate attached to the bearing cap is that it prevents then bearing cap from turning in the u-joint yoke. With just snap rings there is nothing to prevent the caps from turning in the yoke other then friction and sometimes friction is not enough. I've seen yokes ruined because of wear by tuning bearing caps. Note that comment are disabled on your LMTV U-Joints! & Tool Fab v2.1 video.
Dog-gone it... that happened again... I just enabled the comments. Could you add your comment to that video, please? That was the first time someone had explained that in a logical and specific way. Thanks, Jim!
great work on the custom tool, now there is a VEVOR U Joint Puller, U Joint Tool Works On Most Class 7 and Class 8 this part costs $40 on amazon, it does the job.
I have learned at the foot of a master (Mike Moffitt) that all I need is a crow bar. So easy and a very cheap tool. Good to hear from you again Charles. I'll get to the seat question you had this weekend.
That's what a drill press looks like! I never knew! LOL Thanks for that, I laughed. I thought for sure you would snap those tiny bolts off or strip them out using that tool you made. I was surprised. Great job. I paid 80 bucks for my amazon warehouse deal tiger tool LOL.
You paid wh...? Well, that figures. I don't know how you find these deals without camping out on-line and checking every 15 minutes! LOL! You definitely "get the worm," every time. Yeah, I didn't want to show you my drill press (totally). It was the one with the lasers and mini adjustable table. I didn't want to make you really bad. LMBO!
All large road and off road trucks and equipment I have worked on have cap type u joints (spicier )type. Some had locks for the bolts some did not. That is why I have done so many. I was thinking if you get a pallet jack you can place it in the lmtv with your crane no back breaking work taking in or out and like I said a pallet jack is better than a shovel to change a tire if your on pavement.
Good job bud! I like doing stuff like that, coming up with ways to make things work easier for me, but it doesn't always work in my favor! Haha...oh well.
Cliff, I most likely will, but under the contract I have, I cannot sell any parts until June of 2021. If you watch the LMTV New Member to the Family video, you will find out more information.
Helicool's Helipad sorry i hadnt seen that far back yet. Any chance i could get your email? Just to see if the one im thinking about getting would even be worth it i could wait but what it needs nos prices are insane for. Thanks
Cliff Stamp I can’t put my email address on here. However, a good way to reach me is through Facebook and Messenger. Search for “helicool” on FB. Make sure you leave a subject line, or start off your message with LMTV.
I don't know since I never had to replace mine yet. The best place to look for part numbers is the LMTV MTV Military Trucks Facebook group page. Lots of good resources.
Yeah, it is a special tool, however they also know people that have these kinds of rigs are a bit fanatical about them and they try to take advantage of us. It's greed, pure and simple... and that is why a lot of folks manufacture their own stuff or find work-arounds.
The Tiger tool or similar (like the ABN I have -- $92) is a much better solution. It enables you to remove the the toughest, most rusted-in bearing caps without destroying them. With the right tool you can remove an LMTV driveshaft in about 5-10 minutes, including grabbing the 1-1/4" wrench or socket/driver setup required to operate the tool. It's also made from tool steel and can remove thousands of bearings without a hiccup. Tech tip: Once you clean the bearings and seats in the yoke, apply anti seize or grease to the outside of the bearing cap so next time removal is easier. If you ever need to be flat towed (or picked from the front or rear and towed), you have to remove the drive shaft/s or risk frying the trans. I keep the ABN U-Joint tool as part of my LMTV kit, as the last thing I want is some tow truck driver beating on my drive shafts and yokes trying to remove the bearing caps. I appreciate your ingenuity Dave, but there is truth to the saying "the right tool for the job".
Ethan, thank you for that. I suppose it is my stubborn streak in me, and that I just can't help but try new things and learn from failures. I am currently working on a new tool to try, but I figure I'll end up buying the dang Tiger or ABN tool eventually. (Don't tell anyone I said that.) LOL.
@@HelicoolsHelipad , like I said, I appreciate your ingenuity. You are indeed a problem solver. Before I got the ABN tool I made a set of pushers and pullers that utilized a big C clamp to do the same thing. The tool you made will be a good bearing cap installer, for sure. I enjoy your vids and maybe we'll meet on the road one one day! Keep it up!
@@ethanturner5567 I think that would be very cool to meet up some day. It is great having your feedback on here... it keeps me pointed North and out of trouble. I also love stuff that adds to the story for those reading comments long after the video is done being new. Thank you, my friend.
As a tow truck guy I will say... please go ahead and pull the driveline before I get there! It will make your bill cheaper, and my life easier. I will also say that if I have to get out a big hammer and start beating on stuff to get that driveline off, I will without hesitation. I will do whatever I feel necessary to make it so I spend as little time as possible underneath a truck on the side of the highway. Also, have a way to put the driveline back in yourself, because we don't do that
That seemed to work. Do what you have to do. It's just salvaging parts at this point, so do all the experimenting you want. Success and failure; both are teachers.
Uh, yeah. I also watched a RUclips video prior to coming over. The ball-bearing was definitely your idea... I improved upon it by using a magnetic ball bearing! LOL!
It's nice to know there's still a few people out there that have common sense! Yay!!
Believe it or not, I found an even easier way to do this... with a crow bar! Talk about simple.
91B here. We usually use a screwdriver and a hammer to take the plates off and a bottle jack to push out the U joint. I remove FMTV driveshafts for towing on a weekly basis and you just made my life a LOT easier.
Thanks my friend... I just found a new way to do it that is a little quicker and saves having to pop the top plate off the cap. Use a crow bar to push the driveshaft so that the cap and plate a pushed out together. Once they are removed, use the crow bar to push the driveshaft in the opposite direction. Remove that cap and plate, and the driveshaft will come out with a little positioning of the U-joint. Glad I could help a brother in need. Many blessing and be safe on the roads!
Damn , I love your videos Dave.. Humorous and informative…
People say to me, "No way could a former Army pilot and Chief Warrant Officer not be serious!" I just say, "Broke that mold!" Thanks for watching, more hi-jinx to come.
I learned something... I liked this episode very much. Cheap and easy fabrication from just using your head. Nice work, Dave.
You got it, Trent. Thanks for watching and remaining one of the viewers that are so interactive with the channel. It really does help get the word out.
Thanks for this educational video Dave
Did you learn that you would rather buy and use the Tiger tool? LOL!
I have replaced hundreds of drive shafts and u joints. Just take a three pound short handle hammer and hit the heavy cast part of the u joint one you do not want to remove pushing towards one side remove that cap and push toward the other the side . FYI leave the caps with bolt holes on makes life easier.
Dang it, Bill! Where do you live? I could have used some of your expertise last weekend... I still don't understand why the face plates are attached to the cups. I see no extra value doing that... do you know why?
All I can tell the cape are attached at the factory to aid in assembly. I leave them on so I can wire them to the U joint to keep everything together through the bolt holes. They are helpful to use to turn with large channel locks to finish removing cap by twisting and pulling. On reassembly clean yolk with scotch brite etc. I always put a small amount or antiseize inside the yoke to help if I have to remove it again. I am in Indiana so far away. Also try to find a used palette jack makes tire changing easier an you can move product around when you pick it up. You have a crane on the back to raise it and remove it. I picked up the one I have a a trucking firm some one did not want when they quit Free stuff look around get at least a 3500lb capacity or bigger.
@@billwheawill6544 I was trying to think like an Engineer, why the face plates are attached to the cup. I think I have figured it out. I have found plates intact with their cups and some not intact. It really makes no difference, as they serve one purpose... to hold the U-joint cup in place (like a split ring). I believe they are attached to "dummy proof" soldier maintenance. The problem being, you have to pull the yoke instead of pushing the yoke... which is 5 times harder to accomplish without a very special tool. As for me, I wouldn't mind breaking all of my face plates off the cups. It just makes things easier for me.
My crane is limited to 1500 pounds. I've used it a few times... they are handy!
Thank you, Bill for the added advice and explanations... I hope you continue to watch to keep me headed down the right path.
By the looks of things, the expectations ebbed and flowed. See a problem, find a solution. Keep sticking to the man with the high prices, Dave. I'll keep my fingers crossed, too.
I will JD. (I hope I don't have to eat my words!)
Dave, word to the wise, great effort tho, fab,ed that same thing up years ago and pulled the threads out of yoke, second the caps are welded to the cups to prevent the cups from spinning in the yokes and wearing the hole.The idea is that the cups will indeed seize slightly in the yoke and the grease and bearings will take the wear and tear, or lack of wear, will be minimized by the grease. Good Stuff God Bless You.
I have since found an easier way to do this... use a crow bar after removing the two bolts holding on the plates... and pry against the drive yoke and push out a cup with the plate in tact. Then pry on the opposite side, and remove the second cap. Maneuver the U-joint up into one of the open cap cavities, and slide the unit out. SO much easier. Many blessings on your next project!
Good Job. An advantage/purpose of having the plate attached to the bearing cap is that it prevents then bearing cap from turning in the u-joint yoke. With just snap rings there is nothing to prevent the caps from turning in the yoke other then friction and sometimes friction is not enough. I've seen yokes ruined because of wear by tuning bearing caps. Note that comment are disabled on your LMTV U-Joints! & Tool Fab v2.1 video.
Dog-gone it... that happened again... I just enabled the comments. Could you add your comment to that video, please? That was the first time someone had explained that in a logical and specific way. Thanks, Jim!
great work on the custom tool, now there is a VEVOR U Joint Puller, U Joint Tool Works On Most Class 7 and Class 8 this part costs $40 on amazon, it does the job.
I have learned at the foot of a master (Mike Moffitt) that all I need is a crow bar. So easy and a very cheap tool. Good to hear from you again Charles. I'll get to the seat question you had this weekend.
That's what a drill press looks like! I never knew! LOL Thanks for that, I laughed. I thought for sure you would snap those tiny bolts off or strip them out using that tool you made. I was surprised. Great job. I paid 80 bucks for my amazon warehouse deal tiger tool LOL.
You paid wh...? Well, that figures. I don't know how you find these deals without camping out on-line and checking every 15 minutes! LOL! You definitely "get the worm," every time.
Yeah, I didn't want to show you my drill press (totally). It was the one with the lasers and mini adjustable table. I didn't want to make you really bad. LMBO!
@@HelicoolsHelipad , Sean is the king of the deal!
@@ethanturner5567 I know, right?! He is also the king of researching this stuff. Now, only if he had a drill press. LMBO!
All large road and off road trucks and equipment I have worked on have cap type u joints (spicier )type. Some had locks for the bolts some did not. That is why I have done so many. I was thinking if you get a pallet jack you can place it in the lmtv with your crane no back breaking work taking in or out and like I said a pallet jack is better than a shovel to change a tire if your on pavement.
I totally agree about the pallet jack. It was a breeze changing tires that way. That was Bob's Idea. Mine was a motorcycle lift.
Good job bud! I like doing stuff like that, coming up with ways to make things work easier for me, but it doesn't always work in my favor! Haha...oh well.
Right on. Fabrication and error are always good teachers.
would you happen to have a spare driveshaft or rear yolk for sale?
Cliff, I most likely will, but under the contract I have, I cannot sell any parts until June of 2021. If you watch the LMTV New Member to the Family video, you will find out more information.
Helicool's Helipad sorry i hadnt seen that far back yet. Any chance i could get your email? Just to see if the one im thinking about getting would even be worth it i could wait but what it needs nos prices are insane for. Thanks
Cliff Stamp I can’t put my email address on here. However, a good way to reach me is through Facebook and Messenger. Search for “helicool” on FB. Make sure you leave a subject line, or start off your message with LMTV.
Helicool's Helipad will do, Thanks man, I enjoy the videos. Update could you please post a link it didnt bring you up sorry to be a bother 😕
@@199854a No problem. facebook.com/helicool From here. you can get a message to me. Thanks for keeping with it.
Good one.
There is an easier way... read some recent comments. Thanks for coming along on the journey with me.
@@HelicoolsHelipad I have the proper tool for that job, but a good idea, is a good idea.
Way to go sir
Thanks, Johan!
What's the part # for the u-joint?
I don't know since I never had to replace mine yet. The best place to look for part numbers is the LMTV MTV Military Trucks Facebook group page. Lots of good resources.
I would think the tool cost so much is because not everybody needs one on their car of truck compared to a spark plug socket
Yeah, it is a special tool, however they also know people that have these kinds of rigs are a bit fanatical about them and they try to take advantage of us. It's greed, pure and simple... and that is why a lot of folks manufacture their own stuff or find work-arounds.
The Tiger tool or similar (like the ABN I have -- $92) is a much better solution. It enables you to remove the the toughest, most rusted-in bearing caps without destroying them. With the right tool you can remove an LMTV driveshaft in about 5-10 minutes, including grabbing the 1-1/4" wrench or socket/driver setup required to operate the tool. It's also made from tool steel and can remove thousands of bearings without a hiccup. Tech tip: Once you clean the bearings and seats in the yoke, apply anti seize or grease to the outside of the bearing cap so next time removal is easier. If you ever need to be flat towed (or picked from the front or rear and towed), you have to remove the drive shaft/s or risk frying the trans. I keep the ABN U-Joint tool as part of my LMTV kit, as the last thing I want is some tow truck driver beating on my drive shafts and yokes trying to remove the bearing caps. I appreciate your ingenuity Dave, but there is truth to the saying "the right tool for the job".
Ethan, thank you for that. I suppose it is my stubborn streak in me, and that I just can't help but try new things and learn from failures. I am currently working on a new tool to try, but I figure I'll end up buying the dang Tiger or ABN tool eventually. (Don't tell anyone I said that.) LOL.
@@HelicoolsHelipad , like I said, I appreciate your ingenuity. You are indeed a problem solver. Before I got the ABN tool I made a set of pushers and pullers that utilized a big C clamp to do the same thing. The tool you made will be a good bearing cap installer, for sure. I enjoy your vids and maybe we'll meet on the road one one day! Keep it up!
@@ethanturner5567 I think that would be very cool to meet up some day. It is great having your feedback on here... it keeps me pointed North and out of trouble. I also love stuff that adds to the story for those reading comments long after the video is done being new. Thank you, my friend.
As a tow truck guy I will say... please go ahead and pull the driveline before I get there! It will make your bill cheaper, and my life easier. I will also say that if I have to get out a big hammer and start beating on stuff to get that driveline off, I will without hesitation. I will do whatever I feel necessary to make it so I spend as little time as possible underneath a truck on the side of the highway. Also, have a way to put the driveline back in yourself, because we don't do that
That seemed to work. Do what you have to do. It's just salvaging parts at this point, so do all the experimenting you want. Success and failure; both are teachers.
I could not agree more. It's okay to fail if I learn from it. Right on!
Didn't your big brother tell you how to use the tool to push out the cups, Then use a ball-bearing to take up the gap. Hmmmm
Uh, yeah. I also watched a RUclips video prior to coming over. The ball-bearing was definitely your idea... I improved upon it by using a magnetic ball bearing! LOL!