I hope I get my car done by 2025. And I hope to see you there so I can shake your hand thanking you for the inspiration and help you've given me over the years.
I've done several 8V & 16V H20 VW engine tear downs. I used a number punch and stamped the top of the piston when it was still in the block. Also did the rods and caps at the same time. This method is faster, although you do need to buy the numbed punches. All of those VW engines went into SCCA race cars including ones that have one at the ARRC & the Run Offs.
Hi Charles, I noticed that you used the center punch to mark your pistons top work. Also if you put a single dot on the side of the rod and the cap you know witch way they go back on and if you mark them all on the intake side you also keep track on witch way the pistons go back in the block. Great video mate Cheers..
Beautiful vid. I was about to pull mine and I watched this to make sure I didn’t miss anything and mess something up during removal. I was glad to see you use that trim piece - I grabbed my dad’s plastic wedge for wood and used that with a rubber mallet. The vid also showed me an optimal place to stamp. My pistons themselves already have a direction but no numbers. The rod caps need numbers too.
Charles I always mark the connecting rod journals to match up the bearing cap of which way it came of the connecting rod with a dot or two like you did the bottom of the pistons. you really should get a spring punch I've had mine since I worked as a welder while in high school. works for all kinds of metal and plastic too
Thanks Charles I love you videos. I own a 2004 Jetta TDI 209k miles on it and so far no major problems. I've learned so much from your video keep up the good work !!!
How did you determine, before you even removed the pistons, that you were gonna be able to reuse them and get them coated? You need to check piston-to-cylinder wall clearance, you know?
Right but you won't necessarily hear any noise or get misfires with piston to cylinder wall clearance that is, let's say, just at the edge of the manufacturer's wear limits. I'm currently doing a similar rebuild (175k bmw) and I went ahead and miced the pistons and bore gauged the cylinder walls and found that I exceeded the clearance on 1 of the cylinders and was almost at max on most of the rest. Interestingly, I could have switched 2 of the pistons and brought them all to within tolerance, however my taper and out-of-round wear was ultimately too great to reuse the block as-is (I haven't posted this video yet). I decided to overbore for oversized pistons. I mean, if you're spending money at the machine shop on the bottom end, might as well get a rebuild that will last, you know?
same deal here with my 24v vr6 rebuild. I had planned to reuse the pistons and the bore gauge found 2 cylinders out of spec... so I opted for a bore and 82mm pistons.
Most people call it experience. Just like the xp I have now from helped with more of a certain crowd targeting Ford that I hate, than anything else total....I hate NC.
In the past, I've had good luck getting pistons and rods out with a wooden hammer handle. If you need some extra length, a piece of wooden 2x2 works well, too! Definitely won't hurt the cast/forged iron rods. :)
You want to mark internal engine components so when you put it back together, you match wear patterns. When you get the pistons coated and take the block to the machine shop, you get rid of the wear patterns. So I regret to inform you that this was all for nothing. But I assume this process wasn’t for you, but because you have an opportunity to teach so you took advantage of it. Enjoyed the vid as usual nonetheless
I am an over marker when it comes to this. Id rather waste 5 seconds making a mark for no reason, than not mark something that will cost me an hour. LOL
The I’ve been watching this great series. Why did the main bearing wear determine a whole bottom end rebuild? Couldn’t you just replace the bearings instead of a full rebuild? Could you also explain how thrust bearings work, how determine when they need replacing, and the procedure to do so without pulling the pistons? Also same for the intermediate shaft bearings as I’m working on a 1.8 jh.
Unrelated to the VR6 but related to engine rebuild. I have a BWT 2.0TFSI engine and I have been told that VW has put a "magic" coating on the cylinder walls of BPY/BWT engines. I have also been told honing is not recommended when replacing rings, rods, and other bottom end parts. While this would make installation of new piston rings (oil rings are bad surpirse surprise) easier I am a bit skeptic. Perhaps you might be able to confirm or deny this? Anyways, love the show and makes me want to have a VR6 again. Cheers!
Hey mate if the road and cap say cylinder 3 does it have to go on cylinder 3. I'm asking because I didn't knew this before putting the pistons in and they are all over the place.
Just a small question. When you unscrewed the piston cap bolts, did you break them free first with a ratchet/ breaker bar, then unscrewed them the rest of the way out with the Milwaukee? Or did you break them free with the Milwaukee? Thank you!
great work, just picked up a 1994 golf vr6 with 80k miles, anything u think i should look out for with the car, really enjoying ur vids and hoping to to see more soon
Are you going to upgrade to the MLS head gasket? Do you know the part# for the o-ring that goes in the block oil passage before installing it? by cylinder 1...
Go for it, that is my intention once i have finished my house ( bought a house in August) wife said i am not allowed to start car till its done...... sheesh, what does she think i will be doing? away all the time and spending all the money? lol
I will since the previous owner drove his though a puddle.. Had it for a little over a week tearing it down. Keep in mind my intentions are a rebuild. Last night I do little more inspecting, see it for sure threw a damn rod right out of the block. Yay me!
Nothing wrong with just marking the top/head of the piston in the same fashion. Do you feel that you work as cleanly when wearing gloves? I myself can not stand them as I like to be able to feel things and I lose too much dexterity wearing gloves.
I picked up an '02 Passat 1.8T for dirt cheap that skipped time and busted the valves pretty bad. Is it worth pulling the head and fixing it or is this thing scrap? Got some body damage and was not well taken care of. I'm at a crossroads and would appreciate your input. Thanks!!
+HumbleMechanic Hey thanks for replying! The body damage is all cosmetic, but really shows how little this car was cared for. I put my bore scope down the spark plug holes and Cyl 3 has a valve sitting on top of the piston. Really bummed me out!!!
if I'm going to tare down a spare block I got for free for spare parts is it as important to mark the pistons? they would be going into a different block anyway if I ever needed them
Howdy. I have a new-to-me 1998 Nissan Pathfinder 4x4, automatic, 3.3L VG33E 4th VIN digit "A" motor, made 10/1997. It has one or more bad piston wrist pins, and a confirmed bad crankshaft due to excessive bearing failures from oil loss. Does anyone know if the pistons in a 1996-2004 Pathfinders, QX4, Frontier, or Xterras can be removed and reinstalled through the bottom of the motor (oil pan), with the motor still installed? I also have a bad crank so I have to have it removed and machined too. The rest of the motor is clean, no oil burning, and low miles (165,000). I hate to swap it for an unknown possible problem motor if I can do it this way instead. I haven't been able to find anyone online who has accomplished this, but maybe it's not possible due to clearance or whatever. Do ya know, or take a guess if ya been under one like this? Thanks much!
I wasn’t really planning on messing with pistons, bought a car with a snapped timing belt as a project, turns out it’s somehow got bad piston rings, not sure if the engine is gonna be worth saving but I’m gonna dismantle it and take a look guess it’s a good learning experience lol..
@@thomas9434 yeah went fine I put new rings in it, turns out I made a bit of a stupid error though because it was a bad camshaft causing the low compression in the end lol, I guess it’s good experience though.
@@thomas9434 sounds good, it’s good to learn how it all goes together, to be honest it’s surprising easy when you get into it it’s more just taking your time and being organised with all the parts.
I have had nothing except for the "backseat ford mechanics" that love to name fantasies from games, and movies as their build requirements, and trigger when I explain why it's impossible for a store clerk to pay a 3rd party for all the things people actually are interested in..Even got excited to see a Nissan pull up, but hell no Ford made even it. That fact I was ignorant of and felt that I have proof of somebody getting revenge somehow.
How much sciense goes into what chemicals you use. Ofcourse you cannot pour gasoline in the block but like what stuff you use to manually grease or clean
Why not replace the pistols? Unless your just going to home the cylinders I really don't see why. Yes I know pistons are expensive. I'm going to be building a motor for my mk2 soon and with what I'm after I have to replace pistons.
i have to agree with 50skid though, if i was going this far into an engine, I'd rather save my pennies for a few more weeks and just buy all new guts, that way i don't have to worry about some unforseen stress failure of a rod or piston down the line. Just my opinion
I'm at the end of my career as a technician personally, the passion is gone, but I won't screw the customer because I don't like my job either. Do it right, or give to someone who will has always been my motto. I just focus on the simpler jobs nowadays.
Have you ever worked on a VW Vanagon/transporter with the insane Wasserboxer engine? To get the pistons out you have to drag the cylinder barrels out of the case and either pull the pistons out of the bottom of the jugs or wriggle the wrist pins out while the jug and piston flop around. Getting the whole pile of miserable misery (!) back together is even more fun. Since there is no access to the big ends of the conrods without splitting the case you have to re-insert the cylinder barrels with the pistons hanging out of the bottom and fight the wrist pins back in.. Not fun. See ruclips.net/video/6LZyJPy_mIo/видео.html
That would be awesome. Once this is done, I am going to see if Saab Kyle (who is somewhat local) and a few others will review it. Maybe ThatDudeInBlue and EE
The day the turbo/supercharger comes, make sure you sign the Mrs up for a day at the spa, then get it installed ASAP, if she asks, it came like that.....
I feel ya. The reason for the grey background is logos. I do videos for Allstate insurance company. So I can't have logos in the shot. The good new is, I moved my office at the house, so Allstate videos will be shot there. That means the old studio will be coming back
I hope I get my car done by 2025. And I hope to see you there so I can shake your hand thanking you for the inspiration and help you've given me over the years.
engine work has been my life. I like the way you show that marking everything makes reassembly a lot less painless
I've done several 8V & 16V H20 VW engine tear downs. I used a number punch and stamped the top of the piston when it was still in the block. Also did the rods and caps at the same time. This method is faster, although you do need to buy the numbed punches. All of those VW engines went into SCCA race cars including ones that have one at the ARRC & the Run Offs.
Hi Charles, I noticed that you used the center punch to mark your pistons top work. Also if you put a single dot on the side of the rod and the cap you know witch way they go back on and if you mark them all on the intake side you also keep track on witch way the pistons go back in the block. Great video mate Cheers..
Beautiful vid. I was about to pull mine and I watched this to make sure I didn’t miss anything and mess something up during removal.
I was glad to see you use that trim piece - I grabbed my dad’s plastic wedge for wood and used that with a rubber mallet.
The vid also showed me an optimal place to stamp. My pistons themselves already have a direction but no numbers. The rod caps need numbers too.
Charles
I always mark the connecting rod journals to match up the bearing cap of which way it came of the connecting rod with a dot or two like you did the bottom of the pistons.
you really should get a spring punch I've had mine since I worked as a welder while in high school. works for all kinds of metal and plastic too
Thanks Charles I love you videos. I own a 2004 Jetta TDI 209k miles on it and so far no major problems. I've learned so much from your video keep up the good work !!!
How did you determine, before you even removed the pistons, that you were gonna be able to reuse them and get them coated? You need to check piston-to-cylinder wall clearance, you know?
+50sKid the car ran well before tear down. No noise no misfire.
Right but you won't necessarily hear any noise or get misfires with piston to cylinder wall clearance that is, let's say, just at the edge of the manufacturer's wear limits. I'm currently doing a similar rebuild (175k bmw) and I went ahead and miced the pistons and bore gauged the cylinder walls and found that I exceeded the clearance on 1 of the cylinders and was almost at max on most of the rest. Interestingly, I could have switched 2 of the pistons and brought them all to within tolerance, however my taper and out-of-round wear was ultimately too great to reuse the block as-is (I haven't posted this video yet). I decided to overbore for oversized pistons. I mean, if you're spending money at the machine shop on the bottom end, might as well get a rebuild that will last, you know?
I agree instead of coating go with a bore and new pistons ...
same deal here with my 24v vr6 rebuild. I had planned to reuse the pistons and the bore gauge found 2 cylinders out of spec... so I opted for a bore and 82mm pistons.
Most people call it experience. Just like the xp I have now from helped with more of a certain crowd targeting Ford that I hate, than anything else total....I hate NC.
In the past, I've had good luck getting pistons and rods out with a wooden hammer handle. If you need some extra length, a piece of wooden 2x2 works well, too! Definitely won't hurt the cast/forged iron rods. :)
Awesome video bro, great idea to mark them down that way so, they don't get mixed
+RA1N thank you!!
You want to mark internal engine components so when you put it back together, you match wear patterns. When you get the pistons coated and take the block to the machine shop, you get rid of the wear patterns. So I regret to inform you that this was all for nothing. But I assume this process wasn’t for you, but because you have an opportunity to teach so you took advantage of it. Enjoyed the vid as usual nonetheless
I am an over marker when it comes to this. Id rather waste 5 seconds making a mark for no reason, than not mark something that will cost me an hour. LOL
The I’ve been watching this great series. Why did the main bearing wear determine a whole bottom end rebuild? Couldn’t you just replace the bearings instead of a full rebuild? Could you also explain how thrust bearings work, how determine when they need replacing, and the procedure to do so without pulling the pistons? Also same for the intermediate shaft bearings as I’m working on a 1.8 jh.
Unrelated to the VR6 but related to engine rebuild. I have a BWT 2.0TFSI engine and I have been told that VW has put a "magic" coating on the cylinder walls of BPY/BWT engines. I have also been told honing is not recommended when replacing rings, rods, and other bottom end parts. While this would make installation of new piston rings (oil rings are bad surpirse surprise) easier I am a bit skeptic. Perhaps you might be able to confirm or deny this? Anyways, love the show and makes me want to have a VR6 again.
Cheers!
I have a question. Is there a plug and play tunable ecu for a mk4 vr6
Hey mate if the road and cap say cylinder 3 does it have to go on cylinder 3. I'm asking because I didn't knew this before putting the pistons in and they are all over the place.
Hi Charles, great show! One question, will the dent affect the weight balance of the piston?
+Xi He no not in any significant way. Probably not in any kind of way at all
Unless metal was removed, the weight should be exactly the same. Even so, stamping marks like that is standard machine shop practice...
Thanks for the reply!
Just a small question. When you unscrewed the piston cap bolts, did you break them free first with a ratchet/ breaker bar, then unscrewed them the rest of the way out with the Milwaukee? Or did you break them free with the Milwaukee? Thank you!
+Myles Harrison in a previous video, I loosed them and inspected the bearings. I just snugged them up so nothing got lost
Is it possible to remove all pistons without rotating the crank?
a relay goo vid on basic workshop procedure. that a lot of ppl dont know . good work will you be changing the gudgeon pins to ?
great work, just picked up a 1994 golf vr6 with 80k miles, anything u think i should look out for with the car, really enjoying ur vids and hoping to to see more soon
Are you going to upgrade to the MLS head gasket? Do you know the part# for the o-ring that goes in the block oil passage before installing it? by cylinder 1...
Can the conrod bearing bolts be reused or is it single use?
I really enjoy these vids. keep up the good work
Thank you. I am trying to get one more VR6 engine video out later this week.
Can't wait to see more of this thanks Charles
The Piston from Cylinder 4 looks good?
The coating from the piston-skirt is complete worn off..?!?
Have you not thought about modifying it with a Turbo Charles?
+jocky102 I have. A lot. :)
Go for it, that is my intention once i have finished my house ( bought a house in August) wife said i am not allowed to start car till its done...... sheesh, what does she think i will be doing? away all the time and spending all the money? lol
I've just started pulling my VR6 motor out. Hopefully I won't have to touch the bottom end
I will since the previous owner drove his though a puddle.. Had it for a little over a week tearing it down. Keep in mind my intentions are a rebuild. Last night I do little more inspecting, see it for sure threw a damn rod right out of the block. Yay me!
Nothing wrong with just marking the top/head of the piston in the same fashion.
Do you feel that you work as cleanly when wearing gloves?
I myself can not stand them as I like to be able to feel things and I lose too much dexterity wearing gloves.
I really feel I work better in gloves. Not in thick "mechanix" type, but nitrile type work great for me.
How did you get used to it?? I have tried many, many, many times and yeah it lasts a full 30 sec one time before tearing them to shreds on parts.
How did u just pull piston out like that I unbolted my rod cap on cyl 1 on my 12v vr6 an can't get the piston out rod end seems to wide to pull out??
I picked up an '02 Passat 1.8T for dirt cheap that skipped time and busted the valves pretty bad. Is it worth pulling the head and fixing it or is this thing scrap? Got some body damage and was not well taken care of. I'm at a crossroads and would appreciate your input. Thanks!!
I would pull the head and see what the damage is. Would the body damage make it not drivable?
+HumbleMechanic Hey thanks for replying! The body damage is all cosmetic, but really shows how little this car was cared for. I put my bore scope down the spark plug holes and Cyl 3 has a valve sitting on top of the piston. Really bummed me out!!!
My compression came back to 101PSI equality Amounts the cylinders with compression tester tool October's 2022.
if I'm going to tare down a spare block I got for free for spare parts is it as important to mark the pistons? they would be going into a different block anyway if I ever needed them
I'm probably only keeping the crank and rods.
I would still label them. Better safe than sorry
Howdy. I have a new-to-me 1998 Nissan Pathfinder 4x4, automatic, 3.3L VG33E 4th VIN digit "A" motor, made 10/1997. It has one or more bad piston wrist pins, and a confirmed bad crankshaft due to excessive bearing failures from oil loss. Does anyone know if the pistons in a 1996-2004 Pathfinders, QX4, Frontier, or Xterras can be removed and reinstalled through the bottom of the motor (oil pan), with the motor still installed? I also have a bad crank so I have to have it removed and machined too. The rest of the motor is clean, no oil burning, and low miles (165,000). I hate to swap it for an unknown possible problem motor if I can do it this way instead.
I haven't been able to find anyone online who has accomplished this, but maybe it's not possible due to clearance or whatever. Do ya know, or take a guess if ya been under one like this? Thanks much!
how hard is it to rebuild an engine for a 1stimer. I have a spare saab 9-3 engine I would love to learn how to rebuild. Any tips you can recommend?
Bit late but Not as hard as it is made out to be
I wasn’t really planning on messing with pistons, bought a car with a snapped timing belt as a project, turns out it’s somehow got bad piston rings, not sure if the engine is gonna be worth saving but I’m gonna dismantle it and take a look guess it’s a good learning experience lol..
How did it go
@@thomas9434 yeah went fine I put new rings in it, turns out I made a bit of a stupid error though because it was a bad camshaft causing the low compression in the end lol, I guess it’s good experience though.
@@bendude6748 I'm planning on rebuilding my whole engine soon
@@bendude6748 going to buy a rebuilt one and put it in my car, then try rebuild my old one
@@thomas9434 sounds good, it’s good to learn how it all goes together, to be honest it’s surprising easy when you get into it it’s more just taking your time and being organised with all the parts.
Do these hi-tech engines ever require a ridge reamer to remove the pistons?
I think it is needed at times. However, with the angled deck of the VW VR6, I don't know if anyone could use a ridge reamer.
I am totally annoyed that he didn't use standard rolling dice pattern for numbering >:( ...that really grinds my gears
+korcakm that's only for standard V6 engines. Lol
I have had nothing except for the "backseat ford mechanics" that love to name fantasies from games, and movies as their build requirements, and trigger when I explain why it's impossible for a store clerk to pay a 3rd party for all the things people actually are interested in..Even got excited to see a Nissan pull up, but hell no Ford made even it. That fact I was ignorant of and felt that I have proof of somebody getting revenge somehow.
@@Nipplator99999999999 Were you drunk when you wrote this and all the others? Because nothing you're saying relates.
Is this a 12v or 24v? mk4?
This one is a 12v on a MK3. The MK4 could be either.
What state are you in popular mechanic ?
I saw a guy in a VW repair shop who looked just like you haha :)
+FAST & LOUD !!! MICHAEL VICKERS nice! I'm in NC
I’m in this situation and while I’m pissed to have to go all the way you have the satisfaction of having it fresh…. But shit! Lol thanks
How much sciense goes into what chemicals you use. Ofcourse you cannot pour gasoline in the block but like what stuff you use to manually grease or clean
Science? None, it's mostly trial and error
Why not replace the pistols? Unless your just going to home the cylinders I really don't see why. Yes I know pistons are expensive. I'm going to be building a motor for my mk2 soon and with what I'm after I have to replace pistons.
+EuroWabbit no budget for pistons. The block is at the machine shop getting honed now
Love your videos, thanks a lot!
Thank you
i have to agree with 50skid though, if i was going this far into an engine, I'd rather save my pennies for a few more weeks and just buy all new guts, that way i don't have to worry about some unforseen stress failure of a rod or piston down the line. Just my opinion
+MrErikw26 yeah but what makes a better YT video, a well built engine or catastrophic damage? Hahahahha
LOL I can watch dummies with Hondas blow engines all week long, I wanna see what the VR6 has in her! You've made me a VW fan, thanks!
Don't thank me just yet LOLOLOL
Glad you would rather see a properly done build! I would too.
I'm at the end of my career as a technician personally, the passion is gone, but I won't screw the customer because I don't like my job either. Do it right, or give to someone who will has always been my motto. I just focus on the simpler jobs nowadays.
Love that motto! Sorry the passion is gone for you. But I am glad you are not taking it out on customers.
I came from engineering explained and subbed
AWESOME! Thank you :)
In for a penny, in for a pound!
Have you ever worked on a VW Vanagon/transporter with the insane Wasserboxer engine? To get the pistons out you have to drag the cylinder barrels out of the case and either pull the pistons out of the bottom of the jugs or wriggle the wrist pins out while the jug and piston flop around.
Getting the whole pile of miserable misery (!) back together is even more fun. Since there is no access to the big ends of the conrods without splitting the case you have to re-insert the cylinder barrels with the pistons hanging out of the bottom and fight the wrist pins back in..
Not fun.
See ruclips.net/video/6LZyJPy_mIo/видео.html
collaboration with regular car reviews eventually?
That would be awesome. Once this is done, I am going to see if Saab Kyle (who is somewhat local) and a few others will review it. Maybe ThatDudeInBlue and EE
On one dot eight
Earlyyyy squadddddddd! Hahaha
The amount of gunk and varnish in that engine is shocking !!. Service your engines people for gods sake,,,!!!
This also cuts into the budget for performance cams and forced induction......#Sadface
+MrErikw26 :)
The day the turbo/supercharger comes, make sure you sign the Mrs up for a day at the spa, then get it installed ASAP, if she asks, it came like that.....
I hate your background. Felt better with your toolboxes
I feel ya. The reason for the grey background is logos. I do videos for Allstate insurance company. So I can't have logos in the shot.
The good new is, I moved my office at the house, so Allstate videos will be shot there. That means the old studio will be coming back