A trick that I read about online, that I have used with good results, is to smear a little grease on the cylinder wall, then rotate the crank so that the piston pushes the grease to the top of the cylinder, then let the piston go back down. Any dust, dirt or debris that has fallen into the piston/cylinder gap will get stuck in the grease! Now you can simply wipe the ring of grease out of the cylinder taking any crud with it :)
Here in the jungle in Costa Rica we do not have much, but we do have WD-40. Your method worked perfectly on my 10 year-old Niva. I can read the piston stamps as clear as new! You are too humble.
I am not a mechanic although I worked on my own cars in the 70's and 80's. Here is a tip I always remembered from my father. You can build a grease dam around each Piston crown at the sleave when removing carbon. This will help with debree getting down between the crown. Then when done move the Piston a little down and wipe the wall and piston clean.
Fuck me that's one helluva smart trick! I had my engine head off and wanted to clean the block whilst it was still in the bay. After a bit of scrubbing I realized I got a shitload of debris and scotchbrite pad material down in the channels and around the piston rings. But then I noticed the block was junk anyway so I took it off and junked it. But next time I'm doing the block still in the car, I will use your dad's method!
great tips! when i restored my old vintage Lamborghini tractor engine i had to took off a lot of built carbon from the cylinder head. unfortunately i didn't know this method with DW40. thanks man!
This method actually worked really well for me. The wd and pads makes the gasket lift right off. The one thing was the debris getting better the piston and cylinder walls, I ended up getting a bit out but I’m not sure if I need to be worried or not
Wow, that came out looking amazing, especially for a first pass! I think there's a lot of value in showing things not brought to absolute perfection. For the DIY folks, as well as for techs new to the industry, it can be difficult to get a feel for what's "okay," and what isn't. Experience is the best teacher, but example comes in a close second! :)
Just did had gasket on my 2002 Civic with 285,000 mi on it. I took a fine tooth wire wheel to the tops of the pistons... It got some carbon off but not all. I feel skeptical that it would have gone quite so easy peasy if I'd tried this method! How many times have I seen something on RUclips and then when I put it to practice in real life, doesn't work out quite as promised. Humble mechanic You seem like a good guy and in real life I'd definitely give you a shot! Just saying I've been burnt by RUclips before. Anybody try this method and not have it work out quite so easy? Granted 285 is more than 140... That's a lot more miles/ time for the carbon to harden.
I'd use a lacquer thinner to dissolve the carbon first. It will clean off faster with no scraping. Using WD40 AFTER that does seem like a good idea. I have decarboned many 2-stroke airplane engines and have never used any kind of scraper. Just shop towels. NO scrape marks anywhere!
Wow! I was just going to put same comment @5:56 but you beat me to it. A fine example of why you DONT use a blade on a gasket surface, especially Head Gasket, especially aluminum. Im shocked he used it to begin with. "Cost me 20$ for the scrapper" and 150$+ to deck the block along with 25$ for a head spacer. He did mention using a roloc, better choice.
I dont want to make it sound like I'm cutting down the Humble Mechanic, just pointing out even those with much experience can still make a mistake with a scrapper. Having said that, it wasn't the end of the world, it wasn't in an area where the gasket would be up against a critical sealing surface and contrary to another comment above, buffing it out only makes it worse, do that and now you have a larger low area. So never buff it out. I'm am painstakingly scraping over a cylinder head now with a plastic blade that I'm constantly sharpening and brushing acetone on it in between. I really want to use a nice razor blade and I'd be a liar if I said I've never done that before, but I dont anymore. Think I'll get a roloc. I'm going to be at this for a few weeks with these results.
@@ColdWarVet607 it's fine to use a carbide scraper on aluminum, but you need to do it correctly. I'm more worried about all the chunks of carbon that are now in the gap between the piston and bore, getting into the rings.
What provision do you have for removal of the deposits that make their way through the gap(aided by liquid)and in behind the rings. ?..,especially the top ring ? I am concerned that since cylinders all wear more up top, the crud will make a tight situation, especially at the bottom,since it has flowed in under the rings.Myself,(and I usually work on slow ,non performance antique engines)I was taught to neck down your shop vac hose and GENTLY scrape it loose still DRY , and vacuum it out as soon as it comes loose .You can tape the hose to scraper 1/2 "inch from the end and the suction will offset gravity. (carbon is abrasive).
When I want a clean combustion chamber, I let the engine run and spray a little bit of water in the intake. That cleans perfectly. The same effect as a blown headgasket.
I think you should mention that depending on the material the block is made from, different tools and techniques should be used to prevent damage to the mating surfaces of aluminium blocks.
Morning Humble, I have a GM 4 cylinder inline. Im replacing the head gasket as it has blown and no compression in tow cyl. As I read the book on this they say not to remove the carbon ring at the top of the cylinder. Not sure why they say this only as it may be a caustion not to drop anything in the cylinder? After watching your video I plan on doing just what you did and clean ,clean ,clean. Thanks for the WD-40 on the paper towle tip too. Skipper
I love how 95% of people who have posted NO informational posting on auto repairs chirp up about someone else's shortcoming after sitting back int their Directors chair pointing every little thing "wrong" with this post. Sweep off your own front porch and thanks for posting Charles.
As a qualified motor engineer with 50 years on my clock, might I ask about the piston rings ? This is a 140,000+mile, engine. I agree that the cylinder bore 'cross hatching' marks being visible indicate limited wear & assuming there are no vertical plane scoring marks present then everything down the bores is all OK. However ! (There's always a however) on my vast and comprehensive experience with bashing engines with hammers, I would like to point out the fact that 9 out of 10 engines that I have stripped have the piston rings stuck in the piston lands. The piston rings in most cases need to be removed, sometimes even broken to remove them from the piston. I ask, if the 'crosshatch' marks are visible and there's a 'within tolerence' 'Bore step' on this high mileage engine, would it not be prudent to assume that the piston rings have stuck, thereby causing excessive oil consumption etc. and as you've gone the trouble of half stripping the engine, to remove the piston & conrod assemblies ? I know its a can of worms but at high mileage, the crank bearings might be well worn. I understand that this video deals with block levelling but attention is being given to the bore condition & I thought my input might be of some help. Respectfully. Not a criticism, just observations based on a career lifetime of engine rebuild fails ! Nice informative video by the way. My respects, Johns MG Rover parts.
Your correct with that many millage them crosshatch should not be visible. Bizarre,then again it's been some time I viewed iron walls, working on today's motorcycle engine using chrome nickasilk
@@prevost8686 modern VW engines have many issues with oil scraper pistons rings: they are thin and the oil holes are very tiny and if the case the car is use most in city and not frequent oil drain with high quality oil, this holes are many times clogged= high oil consumption, and looks like the engine whe see here as such issue because the thick oily residues on the pistons and cylinder walls...
I have met other "so called" mechanics that could do an engine "overhaul" in three hours. It took me three hours just to get the engine out and stripped down. Then started the cleaning!!!
Carb cleaner evaporates very easily, good for removing liquid or easily liquified sludge. Brake cleaner lasts a little big longer. To soak up old dried coked up sludge, you need a high-detergent infused petroleum-based cleaner like WD40.
I just tried this and the WD 40 isn't helping much. It's an 81 Rabbit gas engine with 41 years worth of carbon buildup. Is there something stronger I can use to soften the carbon?
i trashed my car engine for the whole life of it, around 350,000 KMs, when time to rebuild it came, head removed and no carbon what so ever was found inside!
dude im a mechanic and i hate us. you wouldn't believe what kinds of "common practices" some guys use. ive seen a guy use degreaser to clean the surface of a timing surface for a reseal, with it all dripping into the sump and didnt end change the oil.
@@TheComaDay i'd be lookin to slap some sense into that mech. With that stated, I agree. I hate mechanics so much, especially shade tree's like myself, I won't let anyone touch my vehicle, not even to help, unless it's for an alignment or tires.
I'm pretty sure that if you ask mechanics, they will tell you we deal with shit engineering FAR more than engineers deal with shit mechanics. Talk to me about S85 rod bearings, late Audi timing chains, Ford 3.5/3.7 waterpumps, etc, etc.
I started this same task yesterday with a green scrubby but then read online that Scotch-Brite pads have abrasive aluminum oxide on them that gets itself into the engine and reduces life. Anyone have any input on this?
DUUUDE... so much fluff!! get on with the repair already... i am at 4:30 of you just repeating yourself about the damn wd40.. we already know you are using the non-aerosol version.. cool idc...
yo guys. wd40 is a great and reliable product. it's great to prevent rust on items you're leaving sit for a long time, clean tools, get rust off, clean grease. it is not however a lubricant, any beginner hobby mechanic knows this. the best part is it flashes off exhaust and such with less smelly smoke than most other cleaners or nut looseners. that said, why are people bitching about him using wd40 for this job? it's a great product for said task lol.
Great feedback. I was really surprised how well WD40 worked here. I have found that people have several issues. 1) Any time a video is sponsored, there is kick back. It could be the best product ever and there would be heartburn 2) People have intense brand loyalty. If I shoot a video about Mobile1, the Mobile one haters will hate, even though they make a great product. 3)Most people don't consider it a professional brand. I don't really get that, because I have seen WD40 in tons of shops over the years. It is really interesting to do videos like this and see the comments. We(me included) become married to our beliefs and often struggle to be open to different ways of doing things.
I totally see what you're saying on all 3 points bro. I think the bigger issue is people don't even know how t use what they have. Use Brakleen as MAF cleaner, MAF breaks, they complain, use torque wrench as a breaker bar, it stops working they complain, use WD40 as a purpose made lubricant, or cleaner, they complain... I guess the consistency is, people just love to complain haha.
I always pull my plugs and spray the hell out of the cylinders for long periods. I just pulled a 355 apart that I stored since 1990, the cylinders had zero rust, and I live 2 miles from salt water.
I always save the WD-40 red straw and leave it in the glove box. Once I drowned an AMC eagle up to the dash and got water in the carb. When we got it out of the puddle, I used the red straw to suck the float bowls clean with my mouth to get it running. It worked good.
What you can do is turn the engine over so that the piston crowns are nearly even. Then you can pour diesel or kerosene into the cylinders. The liquid should stay inside the cylinder... none should escape down into the block. Once soaked overnight/or however long you can usually wipe off most of the carbon residue with ease. Some may be more stubborn. Obviously you have to soak up the liquid you used before hand. The liquid should stay in the cylinders because the piston rings should be ‘air/liquid tight’ so if the is significant loss of liquid is can mean cylinder damage, piston damage, worn piston rings or that the piston rings have not been installed correctly (the ends of the rings should be installed 180 degrees opposed. If Aligned it will allow liquid to pass and drain into the block.
Malcolm Young - Great explanation, one thing to add is the liquid could escape on an engine with stuck piston rings also, the soaking will help with that too.
As a machinist, DO NOT use an air or electric powered grinder / sander with a roll lock disc! You can not keep the disc straight when sanding. You always end up with low spots in the deck surface or rounded corners of water jackets and bores!
Yep, made that mistake with my Oldsmobile alero 10 years ago. Just bought a new 2017 Honda HR-V in 2017 and will only clean the engine as this guy has stated in the video when the time comes. 148,000 miles in, and it runs like a champ.
A good way to ruin a motor. Scotch-brite is aluminum oxide which is incredibility hard and if you get that inside the motor it will be toast in no time.
I was rolling my eyes, until I looked it up. Al2O3 hardness: 9. Iron hardness: 4. Scotch-brite materials: spun polypropylene fiber, with nine grit variations, most of which incorporate Al2O3 or similar high-hardness abrasives. (Source: wikipedia) Also, BobIsTheOilGuy confirms. Thanks!
We're not talking about scratches on the head, we're talking about very hard particulates sluffing off of the Scotch-brite pad and getting down into the engine, where they make their way to bearing surfaces and destroy them.
Nice production values - great lighting and camera work. Looks a lot easier than the engine project I did without WD. I used a metal stripper and the fumes were nasty.
Ive worked in a machine shop for 11+ years and the worst thing you can do is take a roloc or buzz wheel to clean a deck surface.. this is common practice in "mechanics shops" and that makes me sick and such a horrible technique is in constant use... ps lacquer thinner and a rag will take that carbon off faster and safer than Getting SB debris inside the chamber
Logically speaking. Any kind of roloc debris left in the chamber will be blown out. Any kind of debris in the cooling jackets will be burned up or just circulated.same with an oil galley. The hell you talkin bout
I am OK with the Roll lock desk.But everything has to be sealed on that engine first so no debris get into anything. I would never use it on pistons. I’ve seen many mechanics destroy engines because of it. The person needs to use their head about it. I’m at 25+ year technician.
I have to wonder, though. Wouldn't putting WD-40 on stuff like scotch pads and wet sandpaper reduce the abrasive/cleaning effect? I know WD isn't technically a lubricant, but it also forms a thin layer. Just wondering.
How much of that SB pad are you leaving between the cylinder wall & piston top & in the ring groove ? You know there's been many TSBs saying to not use SB disks but SB is SB. "Scotch-Brite is a line of abrasive cleaning pads produced by 3M. The original product line consisted of spun polypropylene fiber with about nine grit variations. Scotch-Brite also contains "Alox", which is a trade name for aluminum oxide." & "Aluminium oxide is used for its hardness and strength. It is widely used as an abrasive, including as a much less expensive substitute for industrial diamond"
I had the same concern. I once worked with a diesel mechanic doing a head gasket job on a mack truck, he did basically what is shown in this video. I now work at a reputable engine machine shop running the cleaning area and I use wire brush wheels to clean cast iron gasket surfaces, does not remove metal unless I dwell too long or run up an edge. I would recommend a wire wheel for a mechanic as well, it's going to make less abrasive debris.
CHARLIE ARROYO First off a SB pad will not give the specific surface recommended by any gasket manufacturer. You can google "gasket surface recommendation" if you care for the facts. SB does however give a great surface if you use silicone excessively instead of a "gasket" like so many uneducated so called mechanics do. But then again you have an abrasive particle issue. & Any abrasive left in any engine is not a good thing and it will eventually if not immediately do damage.
+B Anno You are getting a little too technical now. Do you think gas stations gave a fuck in the 1930s what the microns of a head were when they changed a model A head gasket. Get with the program.
B Anno Correct! NEVER USE SCOTCHBRITE TO CLEAN UP GASKET SURFACES OF AN ENGINE. NEVER, EVER, EVER USE SCOTCHBRITE ON AN ENGINE. At least not one you want to run again for a long time. Scotchbrite seems so benign but it is death to engines. Scotchbrite pads are nylon fibers with 40 micron particles of aluminum oxide in them. Scotchbrite dust leaves behind all those 40 micron particles hidden everywhere. Aluminum oxide is an extremely aggressive abrasive. It imbeds in the bearings and eats the crank....and other things. Scotchbrite is the bane of the aftermarket re-man engine industry. www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=563163
Charles aren't you concerned that bolting a the head on with the valves making a nice tight seal that you will induce blow by past the old tings & bore? Or did you do a leak-down test to confirm the rings were good. Thanks for these very informative videos, keep them coming.
+Chuck Ashton at this point I am not worried about it. The engine ran well before hand. The WORST case is, I have to replace the rings down the road. While I a confident that everything will be fine, I don't mind doing rings down the road.
After watching this video and reading around to do my own head gasket, I'm finding lots of warnings about the dangers of using Scotch Brite for any kind of engine surface prep. Apparently, it's practically impossible to get all of the Scotch Brite particles out of the engine, and the aluminum oxide abrasive will destroy the bearings and basically anything else that moves and has tight tolerances 😬 There are apparently technical service bulletins out there about this, but this explanation makes enough sense to me that I'll be pursuing other means: www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=563163
Holy crap, I am about to put the heads back on my 6.0 Caprice and just read through this link. Up until now, it's been PB blaster and a razorblade only, but I do have scotchbrite in my toolbox 😬
I assume that if you're doing a machine-shop style job where you're going to aggressively power wash the parts before reassembly, it might be okay, but if (like me) you're doing this in your driveway and not pulling the whole engine, prolly not a great plan... I ended up taking the head I was working on to a shop for resurfacing and just very carefully cleaned the block surface with steel and plastic scrapers. I have ~195psi of compression on all four cylinders of the 2.3L F23A1 Honda engine I was working on.
If you don't like all that sharp carbon going into your engine and ruining the oil and water pumps, smear some grease around the edges of the pistons to catch it. It will stick in the grease when you move the piston down. Also, stuff the foam that was cut from the back of those scouring pads down the oil and waterways. It won't fall apart like paper and mostly holds itself in. It is easy to extract with long nose pliers if is pushed in a bit too far. WD40 does work. A small flat round ended spanner makes a good scraper for the piston crowns. A large roll of paper is essential. good luck☺
Scotchbrite is abrasive, scratches like sandpaper and also leaves a residue. WD-40 is just light fish oil. I use bbq foam grill cleaner and a plastic brush. Press a bead of heavy grease around the top of the piston to block abrasives from getting trapped between the piston and wall. To do a thorough clean, spray or brush a light coat of paint thinner and blow the carbon and abrasives out of the space between the piston and wall, with compressed air. Place a shop towel over the cylinder to contain the aerosol solution.
just as a matter of interested, the complete meaning of WD-40 is water displacement formula #40, as that formula was obviously the 40th attempt at an H2O displacement product. I totally dig your videos. Well presented with no unnecessary rambling about whatever, to the point with great info. I'd never seen nor heard of the WD-40 and Scotch Brite on the piston tops. Superb idea. Thanks and keep up the great vid's.
David Plass oh dam I have a old corsair front end destroyed but only has 678 miles on it I but it's still inside the car and Its really rusted the engine is alluminum so that's not rusted but the bolts and stuff holdinf it is
Would you use the same scraper if the block was aluminum and not steel? What would you do differently for an aluminum block? Is the white plastic roloc disc ok for that?
would pouring drops of water into the intake while the engine is idling have the same effect? it seems that manually doing it like that is more effective but I am not really inclined to disassemble my engine right now
That is basically the Seafoam treatment. U can pull a vaccum line with direct to intake vaccum and use it to suck in water or seafoam. the shock of the cold liquid will release some of the deposits and shoot them out of the tailpipe. Using this method u would let the engine draw in fluid untill the engine runs really ruff but does not turn off. There are vids on how to do this. It should be safe to perform but be aware damage could result.
Remove the catalytic converter if your going to try this or you will damage it . Bg and other companies say that their products are cat safe but I don't believe that to be true , the cat wasn't designed to handle large deposits .
Jimmy Schmidt Engine produces water as it runs. Lots. If you think thermal shock cleans off carbon try dumping ice into a hot carbon-caked skillet. Ice will skip around and melt, that’s all. You ignore the Liedenfrost effect when you claim thermal shock works using water.
+Jack Frost I deleted one of your comments. It was not really appropriate. One may have went to spam. That happens from time to time. I'd recommend you put your energy into building a YT channel that teaches people the right way as you see it.
HumbleMechanic i just tried to be funny, i did not intend to be insulting :( i am more interested in motorbikes tho, learning how to maintain my 1998 honda hornet
also having done turbines , using a nice flat stone to surface your block is also nice little trick , i learned from doing millwright work in the past ,,,thanks for sharing ,,,cleanliness is godliness LOL
I never use wd40 for any car repairs and probably never will because It just doesn't work that well. Transmission fluid and acetone will will penetrate better than anything and pb blaster on more sensitive or delicate parts. I doubt this man actually uses wd40... But if they cut a heavy check, I'd swear by it too. Great videos nonetheless. Thanks brotha
when i changed my sparks plugs (audi a5), i first poured chemtool B12 fuel system cleaner into the combustion chambers, let it soak till it evaporated. it definitely loosened the carbon. though, for best results is to let B12 soak for several days, scrubbing not needed. somewhere on youtube, there was a test (soak for 10 days !) of various fuel system cleaners on carbon, B12 was the most aggressive. just be careful not to get on rubber or plastic.
few things to care about an engine, never hit it when engine is cold, always wait untill it hits operation temperature, never hit it with old oil, like when close to change it, and finally, always put good fuel in it, engine should last forever!
you should not wait for the engine to warm up. you should let it sit turned on for like 30 seconds for the oil to start flowing, and then drive it slowly until it hits the operating temp. it will warm up quicker and thus be cold for a shorter time.
I think its safe to say if someone was building a 1000 hp engine they wouldnt be here watching this as an instruction video lol im just worming my way thru you tube only reason im watching
Good tip here .DO NOT EVER SCRAP WITH A METAL OBJECT ON ANY ENGINE PART. take a plastic one its most safer to use then metal.metal makes deep sratch on the surface you work on
geen neppe onzin only if your an idiot. ever heard of a pneumatic chisel? used to use one to scrape about 20ft of gasket off locomotive engines. Granted they're good quality steel. It's all situational, depends on the metal you're cleaning. Well off to clean my solid aluminum engine..
I always use a plastic coffee spoon to clean gasket material off delicate iron blocks. Ive almost finished cleaning off my pontiac 400 engine which i started doing in 1984.........
Lots of great information in this vid. Over the years I’ve found hot soapy water works great for carbon deposits. I’m not recommending in this particular case, but if you’ve got parts off that have carbon deposits on them that needs to come off, try soaking them in hot soapy water. You’ll be amazed at how fast and easy the carbon comes off. It does have to soak for a bit, but man, sparkling clean.
If your working on an older engine sometimes the head gaskets contained asbestos so it might be a good idea to wear a respirator when cleaning the surfaces.
yeah i found this out a few days ago when i wrestled the heads off my 1980 AMC Jeep 360; There was a thick grey silver coating on the block and head surfaces at first i thought someone put the heads on with a coating of JB weld all over the head gaskets; So i checked the factory manual and it turns out the head gaskets were aluminum and asbestos fiber laminated steel... with asbestos only being phased out of the auto industry with in the last decade or so it could be contained in head gaskets in many makes years and models.
Before taking the motor apart, while it's still running, just drip water down the intake as it's idling. The water will become super heated steam in the chambers and it cleans things up very well.
Jesus Christ, NEVER use scotchbrite on any internal engine component. The pads deteriorate and gets into the engine, a few hundred miles later the car will start knocking and lose oil pressure. Welcome to 1995.
I can't believe this isn't universal knowledge. Way too many stories of blown engines after head gasket repairs due to shops using scotchbrites and suddenly the bearings get eaten up.
My old boss thought I lost my mind one day. I used the guts from 3 vibrators powered by an r/c receiver battery pack and mounted all that to the top of a sanding block, then put green scotchbright pads on the bottom. I told him I didn't want to fuck up the cleaning job at hand.
'Easy Off' and its equal is lye, sodium hydroxide and breaks down organic compounds such as grease, oil and oxidized fats. It's also highly alkaline and attacks aluminum quickly. It's ineffective on regular, hard carbon deposits but okay on the softer variety normally associated with baked-on fats. 'Hard' carbon requires far more aggressive chemistry or just mechanical abrasives and hard work.
Yes it does. But if engine was running all you had to do is run water through intake with engine running suck up water from cup with vacuum line and it will look like new
Are there Pros for decarbonizing under the Head? Other people pay 1000‘s of $ for coating internal parts and you destroy what you got for free?!? Only valveseats has to be clean!
Hi awsome video. I'm going to remove the heads on my 2011 ram 1500 to fix the lifters and came accross your video. This is definitely something I can do to clean the heads. Upon installation of the gasket do you wipe the heads or surfaces with acetone or something to remove any oily residue or wd40 from the gasket mating surface? Also there is another person claiming the scotch brite pads leave some microscopic residue in the motor that will damage it have you had any concerns like that?
yeah you will want to clean that out really well. like CRAZY good. I ended up pulling the engine totally apart due to bearing sadness, so I never made the video on how I would clean it
@@HumbleMechanic so if you did make a video or had to clean heads after using wd40 to remove the carbon and gasket what would you do? Assume you dont want to pull the engine out. Would you air blow the channels or use a shop vac. I will be removing a cam and lifters from my truck due to failure and am just looking to gather info before I tackle this project. Removing the entire motor is not necessary in my case, I'm just looking for cleaning methods that may help and you're help is truly appreciated
Maybe using a scotch brite on the walls wasn't the best idea especially where the Pistons make contact.. Sea foam also loosens up carbon very well with hardly any scrubbing
+Integra DIY notice that the only place I cleaned was where carbon was built up. This area is not where the piston rings ride. It's part of the combustion chamber.
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A trick that I read about online, that I have used with good results, is to smear a little grease on the cylinder wall, then rotate the crank so that the piston pushes the grease to the top of the cylinder, then let the piston go back down. Any dust, dirt or debris that has fallen into the piston/cylinder gap will get stuck in the grease! Now you can simply wipe the ring of grease out of the cylinder taking any crud with it :)
That is a great tip!!!
Here in the jungle in Costa Rica we do not have much, but we do have WD-40. Your method worked perfectly on my 10 year-old Niva. I can read the piston stamps as clear as new! You are too humble.
Awesome review!
10year-old Niva its new car!!! Hi from Russia:))) my dad have 22year-old niva,not bad car:))
I am not a mechanic although I worked on my own cars in the 70's and 80's. Here is a tip I always remembered from my father. You can build a grease dam around each Piston crown at the sleave when removing carbon. This will help with debree getting down between the crown. Then when done move the Piston a little down and wipe the wall and piston clean.
Fuck me that's one helluva smart trick! I had my engine head off and wanted to clean the block whilst it was still in the bay. After a bit of scrubbing I realized I got a shitload of debris and scotchbrite pad material down in the channels and around the piston rings. But then I noticed the block was junk anyway so I took it off and junked it. But next time I'm doing the block still in the car, I will use your dad's method!
That's a great tip, I'm doing it now on my old Lada Riva, thanks.
Now that's a hell of a trick! Simply genius!
What a great idea.
If your worried about debris, Just use a Shop Vac to vacuum it all out. Never had issues. I always do this when replacing intake gaskets.
great tips! when i restored my old vintage Lamborghini tractor engine i had to took off a lot of built carbon from the cylinder head. unfortunately i didn't know this method with DW40. thanks man!
*WD40
The one time that I'd be thankful to have a 4-cylinder engine. Less work...
Less to go wrong👌🏻
This method actually worked really well for me. The wd and pads makes the gasket lift right off. The one thing was the debris getting better the piston and cylinder walls, I ended up getting a bit out but I’m not sure if I need to be worried or not
Howd it go
@@Jet_Hammer spun a bearing, I’m thinking the degree clogged the passages within the crank and starved a bearing but who knows
Wow, that came out looking amazing, especially for a first pass! I think there's a lot of value in showing things not brought to absolute perfection. For the DIY folks, as well as for techs new to the industry, it can be difficult to get a feel for what's "okay," and what isn't. Experience is the best teacher, but example comes in a close second! :)
Just did had gasket on my 2002 Civic with 285,000 mi on it.
I took a fine tooth wire wheel to the tops of the pistons... It got some carbon off but not all.
I feel skeptical that it would have gone quite so easy peasy if I'd tried this method! How many times have I seen something on RUclips and then when I put it to practice in real life, doesn't work out quite as promised.
Humble mechanic You seem like a good guy and in real life I'd definitely give you a shot! Just saying I've been burnt by RUclips before.
Anybody try this method and not have it work out quite so easy?
Granted 285 is more than 140... That's a lot more miles/ time for the carbon to harden.
I'd use a lacquer thinner to dissolve the carbon first. It will clean off faster with no scraping. Using WD40 AFTER that does seem like a good idea. I have decarboned many 2-stroke airplane engines and have never used any kind of scraper. Just shop towels. NO scrape marks anywhere!
I used this trick on my SBC pistons and it worked great! Thank you sir!
5:55 "Dont press down too hard, we dont want to take scrape off any metal" *makes a fat scratch in the metal*
Furries are disgusting Good call out. That's a time to be mindful.
It will buff out, usually/maybe. Had the same thing happen with bigger engines.
GO NAVY!
Wow! I was just going to put same comment @5:56 but you beat me to it. A fine example of why you DONT use a blade on a gasket surface, especially Head Gasket, especially aluminum. Im shocked he used it to begin with. "Cost me 20$ for the scrapper" and 150$+ to deck the block along with 25$ for a head spacer. He did mention using a roloc, better choice.
I dont want to make it sound like I'm cutting down the Humble Mechanic, just pointing out even those with much experience can still make a mistake with a scrapper. Having said that, it wasn't the end of the world, it wasn't in an area where the gasket would be up against a critical sealing surface and contrary to another comment above, buffing it out only makes it worse, do that and now you have a larger low area. So never buff it out. I'm am painstakingly scraping over a cylinder head now with a plastic blade that I'm constantly sharpening and brushing acetone on it in between. I really want to use a nice razor blade and I'd be a liar if I said I've never done that before, but I dont anymore. Think I'll get a roloc. I'm going to be at this for a few weeks with these results.
@@ColdWarVet607 it's fine to use a carbide scraper on aluminum, but you need to do it correctly. I'm more worried about all the chunks of carbon that are now in the gap between the piston and bore, getting into the rings.
its amazing what a little WD40 and scrubbing pads can do
What provision do you have for removal of the deposits that make their way through the gap(aided by liquid)and in behind the rings. ?..,especially the top ring ? I am concerned that since cylinders all wear more up top, the crud will make a tight situation, especially at the bottom,since it has flowed in under the rings.Myself,(and I usually work on slow ,non performance antique engines)I was taught to neck down your shop vac hose and GENTLY scrape it loose still DRY , and vacuum it out as soon as it comes loose .You can tape the hose to scraper 1/2 "inch from the end and the suction will offset gravity. (carbon is abrasive).
When I want a clean combustion chamber, I let the engine run and spray a little bit of water in the intake. That cleans perfectly. The same effect as a blown headgasket.
I think you should mention that depending on the material the block is made from, different tools and techniques should be used to prevent damage to the mating surfaces of aluminium blocks.
I'm a mechanic and I approve this message. 👍
Morning Humble,
I have a GM 4 cylinder inline. Im replacing the head gasket as it has blown and no compression in tow cyl.
As I read the book on this they say not to remove the carbon ring at the top of the cylinder. Not sure why they say this only as it may be a caustion not to drop anything in the cylinder?
After watching your video I plan on doing just what you did and clean ,clean ,clean.
Thanks for the WD-40 on the paper towle tip too.
Skipper
I love how 95% of people who have posted NO informational posting on auto repairs chirp up about someone else's shortcoming after sitting back int their Directors chair pointing every little thing "wrong" with this post. Sweep off your own front porch and thanks for posting Charles.
Hoppe's gun cleaner is also an excellent carbon remover for those tougher carbon removal jobs...just a little more expensive though!
As a qualified motor engineer with 50 years on my clock, might I ask about the piston rings ?
This is a 140,000+mile, engine. I agree that the cylinder bore 'cross hatching' marks being visible indicate limited wear & assuming there are no vertical plane scoring marks present then everything down the bores is all OK.
However ! (There's always a however) on my vast and comprehensive experience with bashing engines with hammers, I would like to point out the fact that 9 out of 10 engines that I have stripped have the piston rings stuck in the piston lands. The piston rings in most cases need to be removed, sometimes even broken to remove them from the piston.
I ask, if the 'crosshatch' marks are visible and there's a 'within tolerence' 'Bore step' on this high mileage engine, would it not be prudent to assume that the piston rings have stuck, thereby causing excessive oil consumption etc. and as you've gone the trouble of half stripping the engine, to remove the piston & conrod assemblies ?
I know its a can of worms but at high mileage, the crank bearings might be well worn.
I understand that this video deals with block levelling but attention is being given to the bore condition & I thought my input might be of some help.
Respectfully. Not a
criticism, just observations based on a career lifetime of engine rebuild fails !
Nice informative video by the way.
My respects,
Johns MG Rover parts.
You young fellers and your "piston rings"...why in my day...
John Sadler It’s a stinking VW. You overthinking this greatly. It’s not worth rings much less cylinders being bored and oversized pistons.
Your correct with that many millage them crosshatch should not be visible. Bizarre,then again it's been some time I viewed iron walls, working on today's motorcycle engine using chrome nickasilk
@@prevost8686 modern VW engines have many issues with oil scraper pistons rings: they are thin and the oil holes are very tiny and if the case the car is use most in city and not frequent oil drain with high quality oil, this holes are many times clogged= high oil consumption, and looks like the engine whe see here as such issue because the thick oily residues on the pistons and cylinder walls...
I would of done a compression test before hand
Wd-40 learn something new everyday I learned about you through the etcg1 video you recently did glad to have found your channel.
I have met other "so called" mechanics that could do an engine "overhaul" in three hours.
It took me three hours just to get the engine out and stripped down. Then started the cleaning!!!
This is so satisfiying
I wouldn't have thought to use WD40 to loosen up the carbon; I was going to use carb cleaner. - Steve
Cars Simplified zztezgfz
Same here.
Carb cleaner evaporates very easily, good for removing liquid or easily liquified sludge. Brake cleaner lasts a little big longer. To soak up old dried coked up sludge, you need a high-detergent infused petroleum-based cleaner like WD40.
Watching you scrape the block with that scraper, putting gouges in it, and then using a Scotch Bright, makes my heart sink. To each their own.
Go watch a video of machine shop scrapping. It’s how machinist get a “flat” surface from a mill actually flat
I didn't realize that WD-40 had so many uses , that head came up like new .
Diesel would have done a better job.
JayVan Geli
that's true
The 2 tools you'll ever use, duct tape and wd-40!
commodore665 that was the block and pistons
yeah i just used it to clean the carbon off my exhaust tip and it looks great now.
good job, be great to see a video on cleaning intake manifolds on a TDI.
If your air compressor can't run a roloc, put it on an electric drill!
or dremel tool
I just tried this and the WD 40 isn't helping much. It's an 81 Rabbit gas engine with 41 years worth of carbon buildup. Is there something stronger I can use to soften the carbon?
A classic Charles Humble Mechanic video, this is exactly what I watch to teach myself to be a better mechanic being not formally trained.
i trashed my car engine for the whole life of it, around 350,000 KMs, when time to rebuild it came, head removed and no carbon what so ever was found inside!
yeah this engine was not properly maintained. :(
Well collant can leak into the cylinder vapor cleaning it that ca cause a engine to blow
damn prius drivers
why engineers hate mechanics
dude im a mechanic and i hate us. you wouldn't believe what kinds of "common practices" some guys use.
ive seen a guy use degreaser to clean the surface of a timing surface for a reseal, with it all dripping into the sump and didnt end change the oil.
@@TheComaDay i'd be lookin to slap some sense into that mech.
With that stated, I agree. I hate mechanics so much, especially shade tree's like myself, I won't let anyone touch my vehicle, not even to help, unless it's for an alignment or tires.
I'm pretty sure that if you ask mechanics, they will tell you we deal with shit engineering FAR more than engineers deal with shit mechanics. Talk to me about S85 rod bearings, late Audi timing chains, Ford 3.5/3.7 waterpumps, etc, etc.
@@VTLIFE-so4dc engineers should work on their own stuff, teach them to design right. I bet they'd change their ways. 😂😂😂
I started this same task yesterday with a green scrubby but then read online that Scotch-Brite pads have abrasive aluminum oxide on them that gets itself into the engine and reduces life. Anyone have any input on this?
thats what im wondering noone mentions it!
DUUUDE... so much fluff!! get on with the repair already... i am at 4:30 of you just repeating yourself about the damn wd40.. we already know you are using the non-aerosol version.. cool idc...
bro I'll pay you if you clean my pistons! like seriously.
yo guys. wd40 is a great and reliable product. it's great to prevent rust on items you're leaving sit for a long time, clean tools, get rust off, clean grease. it is not however a lubricant, any beginner hobby mechanic knows this. the best part is it flashes off exhaust and such with less smelly smoke than most other cleaners or nut looseners. that said, why are people bitching about him using wd40 for this job? it's a great product for said task lol.
Great feedback. I was really surprised how well WD40 worked here. I have found that people have several issues.
1) Any time a video is sponsored, there is kick back. It could be the best product ever and there would be heartburn
2) People have intense brand loyalty. If I shoot a video about Mobile1, the Mobile one haters will hate, even though they make a great product.
3)Most people don't consider it a professional brand. I don't really get that, because I have seen WD40 in tons of shops over the years.
It is really interesting to do videos like this and see the comments. We(me included) become married to our beliefs and often struggle to be open to different ways of doing things.
I totally see what you're saying on all 3 points bro. I think the bigger issue is people don't even know how t use what they have. Use Brakleen as MAF cleaner, MAF breaks, they complain, use torque wrench as a breaker bar, it stops working they complain, use WD40 as a purpose made lubricant, or cleaner, they complain... I guess the consistency is, people just love to complain haha.
I always pull my plugs and spray the hell out of the cylinders for long periods. I just pulled a 355 apart that I stored since 1990, the cylinders had zero rust, and I live 2 miles from salt water.
I always save the WD-40 red straw and leave it in the glove box. Once I drowned an AMC eagle up to the dash and got water in the carb. When we got it out of the puddle, I used the red straw to suck the float bowls clean with my mouth to get it running. It worked good.
I liked your video and think I learned something from it, no matter what the naysayers say.
Soaking in paraffin / kerosene overnight will dissolve that carbon and make it easier to wipe away with minimal effort using your method.
how to soak? do we have to take out the piston, plz tell me? thanks
What you can do is turn the engine over so that the piston crowns are nearly even. Then you can pour diesel or kerosene into the cylinders. The liquid should stay inside the cylinder... none should escape down into the block. Once soaked overnight/or however long you can usually wipe off most of the carbon residue with ease. Some may be more stubborn. Obviously you have to soak up the liquid you used before hand. The liquid should stay in the cylinders because the piston rings should be ‘air/liquid tight’ so if the is significant loss of liquid is can mean cylinder damage, piston damage, worn piston rings or that the piston rings have not been installed correctly (the ends of the rings should be installed 180 degrees opposed. If Aligned it will allow liquid to pass and drain into the block.
Malcolm Young - Great explanation, one thing to add is the liquid could escape on an engine with stuck piston rings also, the soaking will help with that too.
I can almost smell the wd40
i got the straw stuck up my nose pulling the trigger 😂
As a machinist, DO NOT use an air or electric powered grinder / sander with a roll lock disc! You can not keep the disc straight when sanding. You always end up with low spots in the deck surface or rounded corners of water jackets and bores!
Yep, made that mistake with my Oldsmobile alero 10 years ago. Just bought a new 2017 Honda HR-V in 2017 and will only clean the engine as this guy has stated in the video when the time comes. 148,000 miles in, and it runs like a champ.
ALL HAIL THE GREEEEEEN SCRUBBY!
*Which engine flush do you like best for a 3.6 VR6/GDI... BG, Liquimoly?*
A good way to ruin a motor. Scotch-brite is aluminum oxide which is incredibility hard and if you get that inside the motor it will be toast in no time.
I was rolling my eyes, until I looked it up. Al2O3 hardness: 9. Iron hardness: 4. Scotch-brite materials: spun polypropylene fiber, with nine grit variations, most of which incorporate Al2O3 or similar high-hardness abrasives. (Source: wikipedia) Also, BobIsTheOilGuy confirms. Thanks!
Nice catch!
But is the extremely superficial "scratches" left by the scotch pads enough to make a head gasket useless? I'm gonna say no. But to each his own.
We're not talking about scratches on the head, we're talking about very hard particulates sluffing off of the Scotch-brite pad and getting down into the engine, where they make their way to bearing surfaces and destroy them.
Still doesn't seem as dangerous to internals as the normal small flakes of steel that gets into the oil with normal wear and tear.
erm, i think it is better if you use a motortool and an abrasive buff or make your own abrasive buffs
Nice production values - great lighting and camera work. Looks a lot easier than the engine project I did without WD. I used a metal stripper and the fumes were nasty.
Is it not a problem if the wd-40 goes inside de engine passing through the pistons?
Ive worked in a machine shop for 11+ years and the worst thing you can do is take a roloc or buzz wheel to clean a deck surface.. this is common practice in "mechanics shops" and that makes me sick and such a horrible technique is in constant use... ps lacquer thinner and a rag will take that carbon off faster and safer than Getting SB debris inside the chamber
Rolocs are badass. I think using one lightly and evenly on a iron block would be ok.
Logically speaking. Any kind of roloc debris left in the chamber will be blown out. Any kind of debris in the cooling jackets will be burned up or just circulated.same with an oil galley. The hell you talkin bout
@BGFR : You stated your opinion, but left out the reasoning why it's "the worst thing you can do".
I am OK with the Roll lock desk.But everything has to be sealed on that engine first so no debris get into anything. I would never use it on pistons. I’ve seen many mechanics destroy engines because of it. The person needs to use their head about it. I’m at 25+ year technician.
Not when it's a wd40 sponsored video
I work on Navy ships, and some things need to be stoned smooth and flat. NOTHING works as good as WD-40.
David Collis I work on navy computers. CTN here, lol.
I have to wonder, though. Wouldn't putting WD-40 on stuff like scotch pads and wet sandpaper reduce the abrasive/cleaning effect? I know WD isn't technically a lubricant, but it also forms a thin layer. Just wondering.
How much of that SB pad are you leaving between the cylinder wall & piston top & in the ring groove ?
You know there's been many TSBs saying to not use SB disks but SB is SB.
"Scotch-Brite is a line of abrasive cleaning pads produced by 3M. The original product line consisted of
spun polypropylene fiber with about nine grit variations. Scotch-Brite also contains "Alox", which is a trade name for aluminum oxide."
&
"Aluminium oxide is used for its hardness and strength. It is widely used as an abrasive, including as a much less expensive substitute for industrial diamond"
I had the same concern. I once worked with a diesel mechanic doing a head gasket job on a mack truck, he did basically what is shown in this video. I now work at a reputable engine machine shop running the cleaning area and I use wire brush wheels to clean cast iron gasket surfaces, does not remove metal unless I dwell too long or run up an edge. I would recommend a wire wheel for a mechanic as well, it's going to make less abrasive debris.
B Anno dealers problem not everybody's
CHARLIE ARROYO
First off a SB pad will not give the specific surface recommended by any gasket manufacturer.
You can google
"gasket surface recommendation"
if you care for the facts.
SB does however give a great surface if you use silicone excessively instead of a "gasket" like so many uneducated so called mechanics do.
But then again you have an abrasive particle issue.
&
Any abrasive left in any engine is not a good thing and it will eventually if not immediately do damage.
+B Anno You are getting a little too technical now. Do you think gas stations gave a fuck in the 1930s what the microns of a head were when they changed a model A head gasket. Get with the program.
B Anno Correct!
NEVER USE SCOTCHBRITE TO CLEAN UP GASKET SURFACES OF AN ENGINE.
NEVER, EVER, EVER USE SCOTCHBRITE ON AN ENGINE. At least not one you want to run again for a long time.
Scotchbrite seems so benign but it is death to engines. Scotchbrite pads are nylon fibers with 40 micron particles of aluminum oxide in them. Scotchbrite dust leaves behind all those 40 micron particles hidden everywhere. Aluminum oxide is an extremely aggressive abrasive. It imbeds in the bearings and eats the crank....and other things.
Scotchbrite is the bane of the aftermarket re-man engine industry.
www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=563163
Great video brother. Thank God for you.
Charles aren't you concerned that bolting a the head on with the valves making a nice tight seal that you will induce blow by past the old tings & bore? Or did you do a leak-down test to confirm the rings were good. Thanks for these very informative videos, keep them coming.
+Chuck Ashton at this point I am not worried about it. The engine ran well before hand.
The WORST case is, I have to replace the rings down the road. While I a confident that everything will be fine, I don't mind doing rings down the road.
Thank you for useful important information.
+Mike Dewsberry rock on!! You're welcome
After watching this video and reading around to do my own head gasket, I'm finding lots of warnings about the dangers of using Scotch Brite for any kind of engine surface prep. Apparently, it's practically impossible to get all of the Scotch Brite particles out of the engine, and the aluminum oxide abrasive will destroy the bearings and basically anything else that moves and has tight tolerances 😬
There are apparently technical service bulletins out there about this, but this explanation makes enough sense to me that I'll be pursuing other means: www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=563163
Thank you
Holy crap, I am about to put the heads back on my 6.0 Caprice and just read through this link. Up until now, it's been PB blaster and a razorblade only, but I do have scotchbrite in my toolbox 😬
I assume that if you're doing a machine-shop style job where you're going to aggressively power wash the parts before reassembly, it might be okay, but if (like me) you're doing this in your driveway and not pulling the whole engine, prolly not a great plan...
I ended up taking the head I was working on to a shop for resurfacing and just very carefully cleaned the block surface with steel and plastic scrapers.
I have ~195psi of compression on all four cylinders of the 2.3L F23A1 Honda engine I was working on.
Any method you choose will have nay sayers and “ warnings”.
Man I've WD-40 for a lot of shit but dam I never thought to use it for this. That's fucking brilliant
You should call Discovery's Fast N Loud's and be a fill in for
Aaron Kaufman
If you don't like all that sharp carbon going into your engine and ruining the oil and water pumps, smear some grease around the edges of the pistons to catch it. It will stick in the grease when you move the piston down. Also, stuff the foam that was cut from the back of those scouring pads down the oil and waterways. It won't fall apart like paper and mostly holds itself in. It is easy to extract with long nose pliers if is pushed in a bit too far. WD40 does work. A small flat round ended spanner makes a good scraper for the piston crowns. A large roll of paper is essential.
good luck☺
I thought for a second " oh cool Aaron has a channel".
Do you think it’ll work with 23 year old car that the engine it’s never been open?
this reminds me of a jafromobile video
I watched the shit out those, but last time i checked like a year ago maybe he didn't have any new stuff
jafro es muy pro
This video sure fits that happy jafromobile niche. :)
Scotchbrite is abrasive, scratches like sandpaper and also leaves a residue. WD-40 is just light fish oil. I use bbq foam grill cleaner and a plastic brush. Press a bead of heavy grease around the top of the piston to block abrasives from getting trapped between the piston and wall. To do a thorough clean, spray or brush a light coat of paint thinner and blow the carbon and abrasives out of the space between the piston and wall, with compressed air. Place a shop towel over the cylinder to contain the aerosol solution.
I always used brake cleaner on piston tops and the block deck. Never thought about WD-40 for that purpose. Awesome video!
+Steven p right on!!
Are you telling me that a can of Gumout won't clean your cylinder top spotless like Scotty claims? XD
😎 it may. But I’m not thinking so lol
How I love the sweet smell of WD-40 in the morning...
😂😂😂
just as a matter of interested, the complete meaning of WD-40 is water displacement formula #40, as that formula was obviously the 40th attempt at an H2O displacement product. I totally dig your videos. Well presented with no unnecessary rambling about whatever, to the point with great info. I'd never seen nor heard of the WD-40 and Scotch Brite on the piston tops. Superb idea. Thanks and keep up the great vid's.
Thanks for the tips man! Just got a 68 corvair engine to put in a dune buggy...the engine is dirty! There was no water inside too!
Well, Corvair is air-cooled, so...
David Plass yeah lol, it was sitting outside under a old tarp for 15 years...that's what I ment about water
Oh, so no water inside in the GOOD way!
David Plass oh dam I have a old corsair front end destroyed but only has 678 miles on it I but it's still inside the car and Its really rusted the engine is alluminum so that's not rusted but the bolts and stuff holdinf it is
Would you use the same scraper if the block was aluminum and not steel? What would you do differently for an aluminum block? Is the white plastic roloc disc ok for that?
aluminum surface prep compound is what you want
would pouring drops of water into the intake while the engine is idling have the same effect? it seems that manually doing it like that is more effective but I am not really inclined to disassemble my engine right now
That is basically the Seafoam treatment. U can pull a vaccum line with direct to intake vaccum and use it to suck in water or seafoam. the shock of the cold liquid will release some of the deposits and shoot them out of the tailpipe. Using this method u would let the engine draw in fluid untill the engine runs really ruff but does not turn off. There are vids on how to do this. It should be safe to perform but be aware damage could result.
Remove the catalytic converter if your going to try this or you will damage it . Bg and other companies say that their products are cat safe but I don't believe that to be true , the cat wasn't designed to handle large deposits .
Yes light spray but it won't get near all of it.. only way is to remove the head and dip it in gasoline. Pro tip delete ur pcv engine sooo clean
Jimmy Schmidt
Engine produces water as it runs. Lots.
If you think thermal shock cleans off carbon try dumping ice into a hot carbon-caked skillet. Ice will skip around and melt, that’s all.
You ignore the Liedenfrost effect when you claim thermal shock works using water.
Really!! Using a rotary tool on a deck... not likely where I come from...
for god's sake man, blink, you're freaking me out! BLINK, DAMN YOU, BLINK!
George Tsiros but when you blink, the camera steals your soul. Ahha
+Jack Frost I deleted one of your comments. It was not really appropriate. One may have went to spam. That happens from time to time.
I'd recommend you put your energy into building a YT channel that teaches people the right way as you see it.
HumbleMechanic i just tried to be funny, i did not intend to be insulting :( i am more interested in motorbikes tho, learning how to maintain my 1998 honda hornet
+George Tsiros hahahha no worries man. I was just playing around. Hah
***** of course. You can break something more than once.
also having done turbines , using a nice flat stone to surface your block is also nice little trick , i learned from doing millwright work in the past ,,,thanks for sharing ,,,cleanliness is godliness LOL
5:57 exactly why you don't want to scrape your deck surface like that.
Watch him scratch it.....
I never use wd40 for any car repairs and probably never will because It just doesn't work that well. Transmission fluid and acetone will will penetrate better than anything and pb blaster on more sensitive or delicate parts. I doubt this man actually uses wd40... But if they cut a heavy check, I'd swear by it too.
Great videos nonetheless. Thanks brotha
4:48 look at those scotchbrite fibers fly!!! into the engine you go! burn up those main bearings, wheeee!
That's why you can't use the disk type they fling the stuff everywhere. Notice how he has the engine partly covered
It was recommended that I change my head gaskets and have the built up carbon removed from the pistons/cylinders.
VR6!
As a furniture carpenter i learned to slightly sand the corners of a scraper to save the scraped surface from scratches.
Great idea
you can buy those pads at the dollar store for a dollar
No shit sherlock!
No those are snap on brand pads that are only $299 lol
how can i clean the valves guides from carbon?
5:56 NOOOOOOO scratchhh
when i changed my sparks plugs (audi a5), i first poured chemtool B12 fuel system cleaner into the combustion chambers, let it soak till it evaporated. it definitely loosened the carbon. though, for best results is to let B12 soak for several days, scrubbing not needed.
somewhere on youtube, there was a test (soak for 10 days !) of various fuel system cleaners on carbon, B12 was the most aggressive. just be careful not to get on rubber or plastic.
Are you sure that was enough WD-40
few things to care about an engine, never hit it when engine is cold, always wait untill it hits operation temperature, never hit it with old oil, like when close to change it, and finally, always put good fuel in it, engine should last forever!
you should not wait for the engine to warm up. you should let it sit turned on for like 30 seconds for the oil to start flowing, and then drive it slowly until it hits the operating temp. it will warm up quicker and thus be cold for a shorter time.
I think its safe to say if someone was building a 1000 hp engine they wouldnt be here watching this as an instruction video lol
im just worming my way thru you tube only reason im watching
Is it ok to polish the piston and cylinder head and valves with emery rouge? I heard that it will prevent carbon build up in the future.
Yes as long as you remove all traces of the compound ,so complete disassembly.
Good tip here .DO NOT EVER SCRAP WITH A METAL OBJECT ON ANY ENGINE PART. take a plastic one its most safer to use then metal.metal makes deep sratch on the surface you work on
geen neppe onzin only if your an idiot. ever heard of a pneumatic chisel? used to use one to scrape about 20ft of gasket off locomotive engines. Granted they're good quality steel. It's all situational, depends on the metal you're cleaning.
Well off to clean my solid aluminum engine..
Scallie __ >calls op an idiot
>uses "your" instead of "you're"
KEK
>tries to use greentext on youtube
> completely lacks any reading comprehension
>lol I didnt call op an idiot you pleb.
Scallie __ >Tries to save face
>Fails
I always use a plastic coffee spoon to clean gasket material off delicate iron blocks. Ive almost finished cleaning off my pontiac 400 engine which i started doing in 1984.........
Lots of great information in this vid.
Over the years I’ve found hot soapy water works great for carbon deposits.
I’m not recommending in this particular case, but if you’ve got parts off that have carbon deposits on them that needs to come off, try soaking them in hot soapy water. You’ll be amazed at how fast and easy the carbon comes off. It does have to soak for a bit, but man, sparkling clean.
Nice & one of the better video's!
+Eric Jacibi thank you!
HumbleMechanic are you really in humble Tx?
No, he's based out of North Carolina.
TEC-2000 System Cleaner would do it on working engine :)
Can this be used on gasoline vehicles 4 cylinder engines or just Diesel engines?
If your working on an older engine sometimes the head gaskets contained asbestos so it might be a good idea to wear a respirator when cleaning the surfaces.
+Sam The Multimedia Man yikes!!! That's not good at all
yeah i found this out a few days ago when i wrestled the heads off my 1980 AMC Jeep 360; There was a thick grey silver coating on the block and head surfaces at first i thought someone put the heads on with a coating of JB weld all over the head gaskets; So i checked the factory manual and it turns out the head gaskets were aluminum and asbestos fiber laminated steel... with asbestos only being phased out of the auto industry with in the last decade or so it could be contained in head gaskets in many makes years and models.
Lots of exhaust manifold gaskets also contain asbestos and still used today.
only us jeep guys would jb weld a headgasket
Asbestos is not necessarily harmful when wet.😐
hey, quick question do I have to see the cross hatching all the way around the cylinder walls? @humblemechanic
I like it when you go into turbo mode.
would wd40 work well to clean varnish like oil from something like an aluminium timing cover, or built up oil on the outside of a block?
No, it's bad at everything
I usually just spray water in the throttle body at roughly half throttle. Cleans pistons safely and effectively.
madjimms
Agree
Steam magic on a warm engine is the best
madjimms my grandfather used to do this on his tractor.
madjimms a dash of methanol mixed into the water first is a good idea
+Sam Iamm you mean Moonshine there dontcha? ;)
We used to do that at an old shop I worked at, put a piece of white paper near the exhaust and watch all the pieces of carbon fly out.
Before taking the motor apart, while it's still running, just drip water down the intake as it's idling. The water will become super heated steam in the chambers and it cleans things up very well.
Jesus Christ, NEVER use scotchbrite on any internal engine component. The pads deteriorate and gets into the engine, a few hundred miles later the car will start knocking and lose oil pressure. Welcome to 1995.
I can't believe this isn't universal knowledge. Way too many stories of blown engines after head gasket repairs due to shops using scotchbrites and suddenly the bearings get eaten up.
Not gonna suggest an alternative?
Avalanche2
I just lit a small piece. It quickly and burned completely! So, what exactly is the danger?
Lol it's probably not from the scotchbrite..
My old boss thought I lost my mind one day. I used the guts from 3 vibrators powered by an r/c receiver battery pack and mounted all that to the top of a sanding block, then put green scotchbright pads on the bottom. I told him I didn't want to fuck up the cleaning job at hand.
My boss thought I was crazy when he seen me stick 3 vibrators and a scotchbrite pad up my butt.
+Ghost Watts
I would have too, that's just wierd.
Not really.They wernt the real big ones.
Easy Off oven cleaner works amazingly for that application
I have heard that before. I need to try it.
Yep, that stuff was made to eat carbon.
'Easy Off' and its equal is lye, sodium hydroxide and breaks down organic compounds such as grease, oil and oxidized fats. It's also highly alkaline and attacks aluminum quickly. It's ineffective on regular, hard carbon deposits but okay on the softer variety normally associated with baked-on fats. 'Hard' carbon requires far more aggressive chemistry or just mechanical abrasives and hard work.
Oven cleaner can also damage and pit aluminum. While safe to use on iron blocks and pistons, it is not safe to use on aluminum.
Yes it does. But if engine was running all you had to do is run water through intake with engine running suck up water from cup with vacuum line and it will look like new
Looks a lot - lot better !!!!!!
Rotary brass wire brush and electric drill
THIS
I've always used a razor blade free hand and brake clean
Wire in rings is a No. they break off . Not on my motor .
Are there Pros for decarbonizing under the Head? Other people pay 1000‘s of $ for coating internal parts and you destroy what you got for free?!? Only valveseats has to be clean!
good video.
Thank you!
hi there. thanks for the video. what engine block is that? almost looks like part of a w12 block?
Liamautomechanic
Hi awsome video. I'm going to remove the heads on my 2011 ram 1500 to fix the lifters and came accross your video. This is definitely something I can do to clean the heads. Upon installation of the gasket do you wipe the heads or surfaces with acetone or something to remove any oily residue or wd40 from the gasket mating surface? Also there is another person claiming the scotch brite pads leave some microscopic residue in the motor that will damage it have you had any concerns like that?
yeah you will want to clean that out really well. like CRAZY good. I ended up pulling the engine totally apart due to bearing sadness, so I never made the video on how I would clean it
@@HumbleMechanic so if you did make a video or had to clean heads after using wd40 to remove the carbon and gasket what would you do? Assume you dont want to pull the engine out. Would you air blow the channels or use a shop vac. I will be removing a cam and lifters from my truck due to failure and am just looking to gather info before I tackle this project. Removing the entire motor is not necessary in my case, I'm just looking for cleaning methods that may help and you're help is truly appreciated
ah yes Water displacement #40.
+Timboslice :)
Maybe using a scotch brite on the walls wasn't the best idea especially where the Pistons make contact.. Sea foam also loosens up carbon very well with hardly any scrubbing
But you did end up getting crazy good results, looks good!
+Integra DIY notice that the only place I cleaned was where carbon was built up. This area is not where the piston rings ride. It's part of the combustion chamber.
HumbleMechanic gotcha! Good stuff really like this series 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
+Integra DIY thank you. :)