Dont be affraid of rejetting a carb! The stock jetting isnt always the answer. Even a couple degree change in the temperature can make it bog. If you feel like it needs a smaller one put one in it.
I agree. the issue that I have is that you shouldn’t have to, unless you plan to operate at extreme altitude(s). I believe many OEM suppliers & aftermarket producers could do a much better job at machining & assembling parts with tighter tolerances. I’ve seen big-name Japanese automotive part suppliers’ quality decline in Honda/Acura and Nissan engine & transmission manufacturing over recent years, so I imagine that their power sports parts/component manufacturing has followed suit. I was in the mass pro auto industry during & years after the tsunami, but the out-of-spec-parts increase began well after their infrastructures were restored. I fear the worst is just beginning.
Definitely sounds like an ignition issue. Fuel delivery problems are seldom intermittent. Start with the simple stuff. Disconnect the stop/kill switch from the primary lead of the ignition coil and test ride the bike . If problem persists, unscrew the spark plug boot from the secondary ignition coil lead and check the resistance of the boot. It should be close to 5k ohms. 4.5 - 5.5k is fine. Then before re-installing the boot, trim the secondary coil lead back 1/2". Make sure the lead is long enough to do this. There have been thousands of perfectly good ignition coils replaced when the only problem was the spark plug boot or the connection between the boot and the secondary coil wire. Other than these checks, it's on to the stator, pick up coil and CDI unit. Good luck!
a lot of times I go too far vintage guy and I forget to think about you because you are the main attraction here this is your channel you are the SUPERSTAR!
I have an 08 sxf and the jetting of the flat cr carb always gave me issues. Either around camp or at the top of the mountain. I’d always be swapping jets . Once I switched to a lectron, “kinda felt like cheating “ I had instant power everywhere. Lots of love bro , love the vids
I can’t justify saying that the stator isn’t an issue, but I had issues with my 2002 520 falling on its face like that. Checking that the throttle position sensor is rotated to the optimum position helped, because that adjust the spark timing as the throttle turns. The thing that seemed to help the most was dropping the needle in the throttle by raising the clip position two spots, reducing the flow of fuel as you open the throttle further. Really hope you figure it out, love the work you do, keep it up!
This is why you don't buy a KTM dirt bike: you don't know the difference between a high/mid-speed miss and a 'rev limiter'...take the advice given, check the TPS,, but since the plug (wrong AutoZone special) is black and sooty, maybe check the needle position and/or the main jet size. Just because 172 is 'stock' doesn't mean it's right for your setup. It's just a starting point.... My approach would be to start by leaning out the main, so it pulls hard at wide open throttle (WOT), and then adjusting the needle to smooth out the transition between part-throttle and WOT. The pilot already seems fine... Just a thought.
Had a very similar issue with my bike , turns out it was bad wire in the coil and a few other wires on the bike that had corroded over . Fixed all the wiring issues and it ran perfect
I had a 2002 EXC 300 2 stroke when I was a kid, I loved it! I was so comfortable riding it. I was racing my CR 85 before, when I switched to the KTM I noticed and felt a major improvement in my riding. I miss it, it looked exactly like yours.
I have a 99 380 and it’s amazing. So much power, it keeps up with the newer 250’s and 300’s. It Doesn’t give me much trouble it’s pretty reliable. I hate how he said “this is why you don’t buy a ktm” he bought a cheap bike that obviously hasn’t been taken care of, of course it’s gonna be a basket case. If you take care of them they’re great. If you buy a cheap one that’s been abused obviously your not gonna have a good time.
number 1 ya shouldnt leave your dog out in the rain in the kennel better invest in a invisable fence or take him inside to me if plug is good its stator or coil / ignition
Check valve clearances, and I would also pull the stator cover again and check the stator voltage output at the connector itself where it connects to the main harness. That bottom coil @ 17:00 mark in your last video looks very dark to me. It could be something simple as a bad electrical connection, someone was obviously messing with the electrical at one point based on the headlight wiring. Yes it does appear to slowly build up a charge, but that doesn't seem right. As soon as it starts up, if its charging properly, it should be reading high 13s - low 14s steadily, it shouldn't take a min or two to climb to 14. It should just read and maintain whatever it is outputting for voltage. From a quick google search, yours has symptoms of a dying stator, which can also cause engine running issues like yours is having. So I would find the stator resistance/output specs and start troubleshooting there. If none of that helps, then I would start looking at re-jetting the carburetor.
@martin barr's CRF450 not necessarily. The ktms didn't really get hard to start if the valve lash was too large unless it got to the point that the valve wasn't opening. And it seems like its getting a little warmer than joe wants it to considering he was complaining about boiling coolant when he rode it.
See my comment, I had the same problem because my bike was running too lean. All the time I tought was rich condition because of the black smoked spark plug. The black smoked spark plug can be confusing.
Hi had an EXC 520 - I converted it to a Supermoto with stiffer suspension, upgraded brakes, 17 inch wheels front an drear, road tyres and different sprocket ratios and it was AWSOME!!!!
If it truly is a 2002 400EXC then the exhaust is wrong. The 2002 400 had two pipes out of the cylinder all the way to mid pipe before it went to one and into the silencer. Also, the muffler does have a spark arrestor in it. I owned one since new and just recently sold it for a newer model. A JD Jetting kit would wake that bike up, but I agree with others that the bogging issue is electrical. That year carb was difficult to get the pump set correctly as you have to bend a tab. Took me many tries to get it right. Good luck!
Exactly correct. When you only have a 2-ish gallon capacity in the first place, that extra capacity could be the difference between riding home, or pushing the bike home.
20-year old bike. For a sanity check, try a quick leak down test just to verify there's no issue with valves or rings before getting too involved with carb adjustments or electrical system.
that's an oversized fuel tank...why they made a hole for choke access...it isn't weird... or stupid...a simple solution to make working choke easier while allowing more fuel capacity....
I had a failing stator and it produced the exact symptoms your dealing with. It would start up and run good in the low rpm’s but would break up at high rpm’s like seen in the video. The stator does seem to have an issue with it based off those charging voltages. Should immediately jump up in voltage, not a slow climb as seen on your bike
I agree with Model RC. 13.0 volts is not enough. That would cause your rich condition also. Not a KTM guy, but I would think the voltage should be 14.0 to 14.5 with it running.
same, my honda trx300ex had that problem ran fine but then sometimes it would limit at 80kmh 2min later 92kmh then 70 felt like it had a rev limiter, then drive fine, stator was all dirty and i just changed and never had that problem again (i did but the spark plug booth moved and didnt make connection but that was a easy fix)
@@urbanitesgarage3299 they were saying the 2003-2007 generation were very sought after, because they are. I’ve seen several of those motors with thousands upon thousands of miles on completely stock intervals, only oil changes.
Recheck your valve clearance. Could be as simple as your intake is too tight and not clearing all the fuel into the cylinder when it opens causing it to pile up and get more and more rich as it runs. Other than that the timing could be slightly off, maybe the woodruff key bent slightly when you were having those one way bearing issues.
I'd check you're intake valves miby something is slightly off as there normally decent running bikes over engineering definitely with ktm but it seems like it will definitely be a small problem
I've had something similar happen before. Turns out when I replaced the diaphragm on the carb, i put the fuel needle through the retaining clip instead of under it. It caused the bike to bog under load. You can also see if you can adjust where the fuel needle sits on the clip and check for tears in the diaphragm.
New Regular rectifier - Cheap as chips - (Voltage should higher than that), also voltage drops slightly if anything when you rev it up - Also compression doesn’t last very long on the EXC’s - New rings and yer good - Get yer money back on that sprag clutch bearing - Still a good buy though.
I have A 2000 400exc it's the carb, I never could get it to run right I bought a rebuilt carb for 300 and sold mine for 200. Best 100 bucks I ever spent. My original carb someone had added a long fuel screw and that model carb wasn't even designed for it. Made bike run super rich.
@@EarthSurferUSA I had a 990 Adventure. It was trash and always broken from new. Same goes for every KTM owner I've ever known, (dozens.) I had several BMW's including a GS Adventure. Never a single issue. Clear?
I've never owned A dirt bike that ran in my life. I always fixed.& Repaired.& Worked on them for other people instead to enjoy instead of myself on that part of it all tom.
looks like this bike has had a hard life, using large gauge amp wire for battery wires, the headlight isn't properly fastened to the forks ( doesn't even look like a KTM headlight, but a cheap aftermarket) no brake light etc
Check the pick up coil.,or the points to if that we engine has them on it to. They set between 0.15 to 0.20 thousands of A inch on top dead center to just about to open up. Accept still closed off until the crankshaft is rolled over again to fire under pressure.
Take off air box cover. I put an exhaust and valves in my 450 and couldn’t figure out why it was doing exactly what your bikes doing. I took off the air box lid and it became an animal. It was restricted and wouldn’t rev out.
I had a kdx that was old and the slide needle and brass part in the carb that meters it was worn out, no amount of jetting would fix the rich problem. Figured it out years later....
Why do you buy new plugs just because it’s carbed up?? Does no one ever clean spark plugs anymore? All you need is a fine brass wire brush. They last years if you just clean them and keep the gap set correctly. It’s most likely running rich, so an air filter or carb setting issue.
My banshee used to do this same thing it was from a stator wire running along next to the exhaust and it would start up and run great until it warmed up then sputtered only on acceleration the wire would heat up and loose continuity and make it run poor
I had an ATC 90 I bought as a box of parts. Got it all together and it never ran right, like your KTM. Turns out the box of parts came with two ignition coils. I picked the wrong one. Put the other one in and it ran perfectly. .
You need to route the throttle cables correctly they should go between the handlebars and the tank I can hear the throttle sticking when you turn the bars.and it actually sounds lean at higher rpm definitely do the mid base gaskets on the carb it's sucking air .
That click is the starter gear. Sometimes the motor spins backwards a little bit when it’s shut off. It’s completely normal my 2021 Crf250r does that and so does all of my other buddies bikes
According to plug definitely running rich but I’d almost be willing to bet it’s maybe an intermittent spark issue on acceleration. My rmz kinda did something similar to this and it was in fact electrical
Black smoked spark plug not always is because running rich, I can be because is running too lean. It can be confusing, but I had the same problem, the plug was black and smoked. It took me 2-3 weeks to figure it out, always I was thinking is running too rich because plug, but NO was lean condition. After trying big jets I coudn't belive is running too good, starts with no choke and rev it out completly.
Also checkout the inline fuel filter for being plugged up with debris.&sludge build up. One more thing to checkout is the fuel tank line inlet port for fuel flow blockage to like from rust.& Etc.
If you can I'd test the stator and coil cold vs hot seems like it's either blowing out the spark or has compression loss through the head gasket or something and maybe it's causing it to give false rich plug readings.
Sounds like a leak around the sneezer pin. The penal anacular spring should be at least 3 cat turds out and torque setting should be at minimum 30 uga dugaz!
I had the same problem one week ago. It took me 2-3 weeks to figure it out. All the time I thought my bike is running too rich. I tried small jetting, but this was not the problem. The spark plug was always smoked. I tought it was burning oil and I changed the piston ring, agan this was not the problem. Maybe you don't belive, but all the time my dirt bike was running too lean. I rejeting the carburettor. And now starts immediately whithout the choke and rev to the max whithout any bog. I hope I was helpful and sorry for my bad english speaking, i don't know very well english language.
If you had the problem a week ago and took you two to three weeks to figure out then you havent figured it out yet. For another one to two weeks anyways.
My drz 400 did this plus cutting out , turned out to be the needle seat in the carb slide. Barb had snapped leaving the needle loose and bouncing around
Typically manufactures give rich jetting. So the average Joe don't blow them up. Maybe this machine just runs rich. Id try dropping the jetting. The accelerater pump you usually don't get enough squirt. When they fail they are not squirting enough. Today's ktm are top notch. All the early (02-04)4 strokes the manufacturers were trying to work out the bugs of competitive 4 strokes. Not just ktm the big 4 Japanese too
Great video joe you will get to the bottom of it I'm sure could be the jetting though my friend ha s 2 ktms and they are flying machines a bit newer right enough but I think once you iron this problem out it will fly good luck with it and hope you find the answer take care and your dog is a beuty mate 🔧🔧👍👌🔧
I had a four stroke that ran just like that once. Tried everything. Turned out it just needed a new spark plug, the one that was in it was causing bad misfires.
I'm a bit surprised that the oil hadn't been diluted with fuel. When fuel remains in the cylinder, it seeps down past the rings and into the crankcase. The guy must have changed the oil shortly before selling it to you.
My ktm 525 my biggest problem was the mid gasket on the carb it ran before I changed those gaskets but not good after it ran great. Not the bowl gasket but mid body gasket on carb
I got a 03 KTM 450 exc in late 02 Worst bike I ever had, just did not like it. power delivery sucked suspension sucked everything about the bike. By then I had ridden a few 400 exc and ended up getting a 06 400 exc totally different bike, one of the best race bikes ive had!!
PS: KTMs are Race bikes (Not trail bikes) They are designed for racers and racing and strict maintenance intervals in heavy race load (HR"S). A lot of the thing you don't understand why there done are answered by this alone.
Stock jetting is the starting point to tuning your carb... it doesn't mean it is correct for your location...or bike..you adjust it to Work better...if it is not running right...go leaner or richer in small steps till you find some better tuning.... check timing is correct...as it sounds more a spark issue... cutting out... check connectors for corrosion... or grounding out...do the basics before guessing on parts to buy...test and check simple stuff first before wasting money on parts swapping...
i have a yz 250 at 1 time i was thinking about buying one . now that i see what u say about the like the choke wont ever buy. for 1300 if a found one in that good of shape maybe.
I know very little about enduro motorcycles, however when you were reading the charging system at the battery, it didn't seem to be charging properly! I suspect that your ignition is running off the battery and drawing it down! You might have a problem with the charging system or the voltage regulator.
Yes. Did you notice he pulled that thingy off the top of the plug? Previous owner probably did that. Removing that is for old school engines with that exposed wire connection to the plug. It could be causing big misfires and the rev limiter is just tracking firings which it’s doing but it’s arcing in the boot. Kicking it over it will spark. Under load and it can’t fire the plug every revolution making it black. I’ve NEVER removed that from a plug on anything but a lawnmower
I was never a fan of ktm to begin with! I had a buddy who a couple years ago bought a brand new ktm 450 2017 and we went to the track and he hit a couple jumps before the forks snapped beneath him on a landing and he ate dirt hard, the bike was maybe 2 weeks old. I’ll always be a Yamaha guy!
replace mid body carby gaskets. if it has a slide check the gasket or o ring on that. I have a 01 wr250 that would still randomly when warm, miss on load and sometimes not start because of a bad mid body gasket and slide gasket. it wasn't even that bad but enough to make it do several weird things. another thing to check is try another coil in it. if the coils going bad it can break down when they get warm. process of elimination now.
Try raising the needle in the carb slide 2 notches, if that improves things check the float height and set to factory settings then go back to the needle and set the best position by testing. Your problem is lean mixture not rich I think
Had same problem on a yz450f. It had a 30 leak jet allowing accelerator pump to have to much pressure/fuel. Went to a 50 then raised needle. Ran like a champ after that.
I wouldn't say 'DON'T Buy a KTM'. . . But I would say don't buy a $1300, 20 year old KTM, with unknown mechanical and electrical issues and expect anything but the worst. I would definitely say that. I mean, I like the channel, but dude brought home a bike without even knowing what year or model he bought. And couldn't find the choke. I don't know what to say except some people take care of there stuff and others don't. Not every cheap buy is a diamond in the rough.
Check the airfilter and intake track , if the carb is functioning as it’s suppose w stock jets and it’s pig rich then check the filter and intake track to make sure nothing made a nest or has it obstructed , if that’s Gucci time to check the valves and do a leak down test . I’ve seen cam lobes wear off which caused a similar issue .
Dont be affraid of rejetting a carb! The stock jetting isnt always the answer. Even a couple degree change in the temperature can make it bog. If you feel like it needs a smaller one put one in it.
JD jetting makes a great jet kit
I agree. Definitely worth a shot. Worst that can happen is that it doesn't ride any better but hey it's already running pretty bad as is.
I agree. the issue that I have is that you shouldn’t have to, unless you plan to operate at extreme altitude(s). I believe many OEM suppliers & aftermarket producers could do a much better job at machining & assembling parts with tighter tolerances. I’ve seen big-name Japanese automotive part suppliers’ quality decline in Honda/Acura and Nissan engine & transmission manufacturing over recent years, so I imagine that their power sports parts/component manufacturing has followed suit. I was in the mass pro auto industry during & years after the tsunami, but the out-of-spec-parts increase began well after their infrastructures were restored. I fear the worst is just beginning.
Agree with this
They are little lean on factory jets because lot of these was street legal and had to pass emissions
Definitely sounds like an ignition issue. Fuel delivery problems are seldom intermittent. Start with the simple stuff. Disconnect the stop/kill switch from the primary lead of the ignition coil and test ride the bike . If problem persists, unscrew the spark plug boot from the secondary ignition coil lead and check the resistance of the boot. It should be close to 5k ohms. 4.5 - 5.5k is fine. Then before re-installing the boot, trim the secondary coil lead back 1/2". Make sure the lead is long enough to do this. There have been thousands of perfectly good ignition coils replaced when the only problem was the spark plug boot or the connection between the boot and the secondary coil wire. Other than these checks, it's on to the stator, pick up coil and CDI unit.
Good luck!
a lot of times I go too far vintage guy and I forget to think about you because you are the main attraction here this is your channel you are the SUPERSTAR!
I have an 08 sxf and the jetting of the flat cr carb always gave me issues. Either around camp or at the top of the mountain. I’d always be swapping jets .
Once I switched to a lectron, “kinda felt like cheating “ I had instant power everywhere.
Lots of love bro , love the vids
Another vote for stator electrical issues especially with it not registering above 14v charging.
I can’t justify saying that the stator isn’t an issue, but I had issues with my 2002 520 falling on its face like that. Checking that the throttle position sensor is rotated to the optimum position helped, because that adjust the spark timing as the throttle turns. The thing that seemed to help the most was dropping the needle in the throttle by raising the clip position two spots, reducing the flow of fuel as you open the throttle further. Really hope you figure it out, love the work you do, keep it up!
throttle position sensor on a carb?
@@MikeBlunt2 ruclips.net/video/0lBPDrjAwqA/видео.html
This is why you don't buy a KTM dirt bike: you don't know the difference between a high/mid-speed miss and a 'rev limiter'...take the advice given, check the TPS,, but since the plug (wrong AutoZone special) is black and sooty, maybe check the needle position and/or the main jet size. Just because 172 is 'stock' doesn't mean it's right for your setup. It's just a starting point....
My approach would be to start by leaning out the main, so it pulls hard at wide open throttle (WOT), and then adjusting the needle to smooth out the transition between part-throttle and WOT. The pilot already seems fine...
Just a thought.
Bury it next to the Yamaha!
Most of my friends take their bikes to the mechanic because they cannot figure the s*** out but you are a superstar God!
Sounds exactly like what my bike was doing. And all I had to do was reset the ap timing and go down a size on my main jet, now she runs like a dream.
Had a very similar issue with my bike , turns out it was bad wire in the coil and a few other wires on the bike that had corroded over . Fixed all the wiring issues and it ran perfect
The world needs leadership vintage guy and you are a perfect example of high-performance!
I had a 2002 EXC 300 2 stroke when I was a kid, I loved it! I was so comfortable riding it. I was racing my CR 85 before, when I switched to the KTM I noticed and felt a major improvement in my riding. I miss it, it looked exactly like yours.
I have a 99 380 and it’s amazing. So much power, it keeps up with the newer 250’s and 300’s. It Doesn’t give me much trouble it’s pretty reliable. I hate how he said “this is why you don’t buy a ktm” he bought a cheap bike that obviously hasn’t been taken care of, of course it’s gonna be a basket case. If you take care of them they’re great. If you buy a cheap one that’s been abused obviously your not gonna have a good time.
@@jakobsmith3772KTM is trash
number 1 ya shouldnt leave your dog out in the rain in the kennel better invest in a invisable fence or take him inside to me if plug is good its stator or coil / ignition
Check valve clearances, and I would also pull the stator cover again and check the stator voltage output at the connector itself where it connects to the main harness. That bottom coil @ 17:00 mark in your last video looks very dark to me. It could be something simple as a bad electrical connection, someone was obviously messing with the electrical at one point based on the headlight wiring. Yes it does appear to slowly build up a charge, but that doesn't seem right. As soon as it starts up, if its charging properly, it should be reading high 13s - low 14s steadily, it shouldn't take a min or two to climb to 14. It should just read and maintain whatever it is outputting for voltage. From a quick google search, yours has symptoms of a dying stator, which can also cause engine running issues like yours is having. So I would find the stator resistance/output specs and start troubleshooting there. If none of that helps, then I would start looking at re-jetting the carburetor.
@martin barr's CRF450 not necessarily. The ktms didn't really get hard to start if the valve lash was too large unless it got to the point that the valve wasn't opening. And it seems like its getting a little warmer than joe wants it to considering he was complaining about boiling coolant when he rode it.
See my comment, I had the same problem because my bike was running too lean. All the time I tought was rich condition because of the black smoked spark plug. The black smoked spark plug can be confusing.
I agree. Battery should be charging at well over 13 volts the instant the bike is started.
@@Mr.M1STER True, whatever else is wrong with it that is not right for a start.
Valves
Hi had an EXC 520 - I converted it to a Supermoto with stiffer suspension, upgraded brakes, 17 inch wheels front an drear, road tyres and different sprocket ratios and it was AWSOME!!!!
If it truly is a 2002 400EXC then the exhaust is wrong. The 2002 400 had two pipes out of the cylinder all the way to mid pipe before it went to one and into the silencer. Also, the muffler does have a spark arrestor in it. I owned one since new and just recently sold it for a newer model.
A JD Jetting kit would wake that bike up, but I agree with others that the bogging issue is electrical.
That year carb was difficult to get the pump set correctly as you have to bend a tab. Took me many tries to get it right.
Good luck!
Ever heard of aftermarket exhaust?
@@rposton919 aftermarket pipe doesn't change the head mate😂😂😂
Two pipes come straight out of the head on 400 exc so perhaps that's 450?
The hole in the fuel tank on KTM bikes for the choke is just for the extra fuel capacity of the tank, not "over-engineering" in my opinion.
Exactly correct. When you only have a 2-ish gallon capacity in the first place, that extra capacity could be the difference between riding home, or pushing the bike home.
I wish I had a family like you vintage guy and the only reason I am so fantastic is because I never listen to my mother!
20-year old bike. For a sanity check, try a quick leak down test just to verify there's no issue with valves or rings before getting too involved with carb adjustments or electrical system.
that's an oversized fuel tank...why they made a hole for choke access...it isn't weird... or stupid...a simple solution to make working choke easier while allowing more fuel capacity....
Checkout the vented fuel tank gas cap to it maybe plugged in the tip nipple to by chance from dirt.,or dust.packed inside of it to tom.
You must be a crazy hard worker because it is so hard to focus on your job well you are doing all the camera work!
I had a failing stator and it produced the exact symptoms your dealing with. It would start up and run good in the low rpm’s but would break up at high rpm’s like seen in the video. The stator does seem to have an issue with it based off those charging voltages. Should immediately jump up in voltage, not a slow climb as seen on your bike
I agree with Model RC. 13.0 volts is not enough. That would cause your rich condition also. Not a KTM guy, but I would think the voltage should be 14.0 to 14.5 with it running.
I had a sx-f 450 and the voltage was 13.5 - 13.8
@@danielspataru6372 That voltage makes sense IMOP.
same, my honda trx300ex had that problem ran fine but then sometimes it would limit at 80kmh 2min later 92kmh then 70 felt like it had a rev limiter, then drive fine, stator was all dirty and i just changed and never had that problem again (i did but the spark plug booth moved and didnt make connection but that was a easy fix)
This era ktm was known for issues… all sorts of issues…. The new models are superior machines
Amen that
@@91cb7 pos this thing is god dammit!😮😱👁👀👁🤯🤪😮🤔🤔🤔
Lol last vid everyone was saying that era of ktm was “highly sought after” what is it with KTM riders lol
@@urbanitesgarage3299 they were saying the 2003-2007 generation were very sought after, because they are. I’ve seen several of those motors with thousands upon thousands of miles on completely stock intervals, only oil changes.
@@mw4518 im cutting it close with a 2008 lol
Recheck your valve clearance. Could be as simple as your intake is too tight and not clearing all the fuel into the cylinder when it opens causing it to pile up and get more and more rich as it runs. Other than that the timing could be slightly off, maybe the woodruff key bent slightly when you were having those one way bearing issues.
I'd check you're intake valves miby something is slightly off as there normally decent running bikes over engineering definitely with ktm but it seems like it will definitely be a small problem
Leak down test
I love the job you did on the 350 Honda twin because that was a very sweet bike!
Could the previous owner have changed the float hight , attempting to stop the fuel from leaking? What notch was the clip for the main jet needle in?
I agree. It points to a possible float height problem but maybe set too low.
I had that problem on my 110cc pit bike and it was too much gas coming into the cab try closing on the carburator flotor .
I've had something similar happen before. Turns out when I replaced the diaphragm on the carb, i put the fuel needle through the retaining clip instead of under it. It caused the bike to bog under load. You can also see if you can adjust where the fuel needle sits on the clip and check for tears in the diaphragm.
some people might say take it to the dealership because they know what they're doing but I think you are better than the dealership!
New Regular rectifier - Cheap as chips - (Voltage should higher than that), also voltage drops slightly if anything when you rev it up - Also compression doesn’t last very long on the EXC’s - New rings and yer good - Get yer money back on that sprag clutch bearing - Still a good buy though.
Could be a coil problem sounds like spark is cutting off
I have A 2000 400exc it's the carb, I never could get it to run right I bought a rebuilt carb for 300 and sold mine for 200. Best 100 bucks I ever spent. My original carb someone had added a long fuel screw and that model carb wasn't even designed for it. Made bike run super rich.
So the moral of the story is if you have a KTM, take it to someone who knows what they’re doing
Or...buy Honda.
Never own one. Austria is not Germany.
@@scottnathanphoto Germany makes a competitive dirt bike? Figure out why not.
@@EarthSurferUSA I had a 990 Adventure. It was trash and always broken from new. Same goes for every KTM owner I've ever known, (dozens.) I had several BMW's including a GS Adventure. Never a single issue. Clear?
@@scottnathanphoto own 3 ktms best bikes ever
My 2010 400xcw sounded like that right B4 it dropped a valve locking up bike.
Head alone 800$. Oil was clean but there was shards in my airbox
I've never owned A dirt bike that ran in my life. I always fixed.& Repaired.& Worked on them for other people instead to enjoy instead of myself on that part of it all tom.
looks like this bike has had a hard life, using large gauge amp wire for battery wires, the headlight isn't properly fastened to the forks ( doesn't even look like a KTM headlight, but a cheap aftermarket) no brake light etc
Check the pick up coil.,or the points to if that we engine has them on it to. They set between 0.15 to 0.20 thousands of A inch on top dead center to just about to open up. Accept still closed off until the crankshaft is rolled over again to fire under pressure.
Take off air box cover. I put an exhaust and valves in my 450 and couldn’t figure out why it was doing exactly what your bikes doing. I took off the air box lid and it became an animal. It was restricted and wouldn’t rev out.
Got to be electrical, test the stator and cdi
Correction, don’t buy ktm FOUR STROKES! The TWO STROKES are amazing!
Had an 04' 450 EXC that did much better after replacing the mid-body gasket. Just a thought.
Same. ‘05 525 mid body gasket
I had a kdx that was old and the slide needle and brass part in the carb that meters it was worn out, no amount of jetting would fix the rich problem. Figured it out years later....
18:39 why does he just have a puppy siting in a cage outside in the rain listening to a loud bike?
So he doesnt run her over
I am pretty sure you are sick and tired of my contributions vintage guy so I will sign off now and wish you the best!
Why do you buy new plugs just because it’s carbed up?? Does no one ever clean spark plugs anymore? All you need is a fine brass wire brush. They last years if you just clean them and keep the gap set correctly.
It’s most likely running rich, so an air filter or carb setting issue.
I think it runs like shit because you have that poor puppy locked in a cage in the rain.
My banshee used to do this same thing it was from a stator wire running along next to the exhaust and it would start up and run great until it warmed up then sputtered only on acceleration the wire would heat up and loose continuity and make it run poor
Or pick up coil get's hot and fails.
I had an ATC 90 I bought as a box of parts. Got it all together and it never ran right, like your KTM. Turns out the box of parts came with two ignition coils. I picked the wrong one. Put the other one in and it ran perfectly. .
You are going to hear this a few times vintage guy you are a superstar genius mechanic!
You need to route the throttle cables correctly they should go between the handlebars and the tank I can hear the throttle sticking when you turn the bars.and it actually sounds lean at higher rpm definitely do the mid base gaskets on the carb it's sucking air .
That click is the starter gear. Sometimes the motor spins backwards a little bit when it’s shut off. It’s completely normal my 2021 Crf250r does that and so does all of my other buddies bikes
According to plug definitely running rich but I’d almost be willing to bet it’s maybe an intermittent spark issue on acceleration. My rmz kinda did something similar to this and it was in fact electrical
Black smoked spark plug not always is because running rich, I can be because is running too lean. It can be confusing, but I had the same problem, the plug was black and smoked. It took me 2-3 weeks to figure it out, always I was thinking is running too rich because plug, but NO was lean condition. After trying big jets I coudn't belive is running too good, starts with no choke and rev it out completly.
Also checkout the inline fuel filter for being plugged up with debris.&sludge build up. One more thing to checkout is the fuel tank line inlet port for fuel flow blockage to like from rust.& Etc.
My little brother is dead now vintage guy simply because he always listened to his mother!
I think the click after shutoff is part of the electric starter mechanism. Also the 18 inch rear wheel may help you determine 400 or 450.
I think it could be weak spark
Maybe coil or spark plug wire. Good luck Joe. I really like your videos.
If you can I'd test the stator and coil cold vs hot seems like it's either blowing out the spark or has compression loss through the head gasket or something and maybe it's causing it to give false rich plug readings.
I second the head gasket he says it's getting hot
Sounds like a leak around the sneezer pin. The penal anacular spring should be at least 3 cat turds out and torque setting should be at minimum 30 uga dugaz!
Dude??? I agree with your penal anacular spring settings, but 30 uga dugaz? That's way too many.
I hold a world record for the fastest delta wing jet ever designed and built buy a single homeless man!
I had the same problem one week ago. It took me 2-3 weeks to figure it out. All the time I thought my bike is running too rich. I tried small jetting, but this was not the problem. The spark plug was always smoked. I tought it was burning oil and I changed the piston ring, agan this was not the problem. Maybe you don't belive, but all the time my dirt bike was running too lean. I rejeting the carburettor. And now starts immediately whithout the choke and rev to the max whithout any bog. I hope I was helpful and sorry for my bad english speaking, i don't know very well english language.
If you had the problem a week ago and took you two to three weeks to figure out then you havent figured it out yet. For another one to two weeks anyways.
Pilot jet to lean at idle needle setting or main to big causing to much at full throttle right
1 week ago the problem was solved
@@Mizman76
his english is better than yours..i understood what he said....and your joke too...
My drz 400 did this plus cutting out , turned out to be the needle seat in the carb slide. Barb had snapped leaving the needle loose and bouncing around
Typically manufactures give rich jetting. So the average Joe don't blow them up. Maybe this machine just runs rich. Id try dropping the jetting. The accelerater pump you usually don't get enough squirt. When they fail they are not squirting enough. Today's ktm are top notch. All the early (02-04)4 strokes the manufacturers were trying to work out the bugs of competitive 4 strokes. Not just ktm the big 4 Japanese too
its electrical cdi or ignition pick up
Great video joe you will get to the bottom of it I'm sure could be the jetting though my friend ha s 2 ktms and they are flying machines a bit newer right enough but I think once you iron this problem out it will fly good luck with it and hope you find the answer take care and your dog is a beuty mate 🔧🔧👍👌🔧
It seems the throttle cable get pulled since moving the handlebars changes the rpm on idle... If its not the carb it might be the cdi
I had a four stroke that ran just like that once. Tried everything. Turned out it just needed a new spark plug, the one that was in it was causing bad misfires.
Not trying to be rude I’m Just curious, what all did you change?😂 normally the spark plug is the first thing to change when your having issues
Always check valve clearance when you buy a used bike. Most people have no clue about how often they need to be checked or even check them at all.
KTMs are awesome bikes and require experience to keep them maintained. You cant slop shit around on these.
aka they break very often and have reliability problems
You need to put nkg plug back into it and get rid of auto lite plug and rejet the carb
I'm a bit surprised that the oil hadn't been diluted with fuel. When fuel remains in the cylinder, it seeps down past the rings and into the crankcase. The guy must have changed the oil shortly before selling it to you.
Yes he did change the oil right before selling it to me.
@@2vintage you no why they do that rite ? to hide sh*t
My ktm 525 my biggest problem was the mid gasket on the carb it ran before I changed those gaskets but not good after it ran great. Not the bowl gasket but mid body gasket on carb
It sounds like an intermittent spark issue to me, possibly the plug wire. I had a 4 wheeler that was what it was.
I was going to say the same, try it at night and look for tracking otherwise try changing plug cover, wire cdi whatever.
Sounds like both the needle on the slide and the accelerator pump need adjusting. Awesome video though keep up the great work.
I got a 03 KTM 450 exc in late 02 Worst bike I ever had, just did not like it. power delivery sucked suspension sucked everything about the bike. By then I had ridden a few 400 exc and ended up getting a 06 400 exc totally different bike, one of the best race bikes ive had!!
PS: KTMs are Race bikes (Not trail bikes) They are designed for racers and racing and strict maintenance intervals in heavy race load (HR"S). A lot of the thing you don't understand why there done are answered by this alone.
Stock jetting is the starting point to tuning your carb... it doesn't mean it is correct for your location...or bike..you adjust it to Work better...if it is not running right...go leaner or richer in small steps till you find some better tuning.... check timing is correct...as it sounds more a spark issue... cutting out... check connectors for corrosion... or grounding out...do the basics before guessing on parts to buy...test and check simple stuff first before wasting money on parts swapping...
Aww poor pup being lock in the kennel
i have a yz 250 at 1 time i was thinking about buying one . now that i see what u say about the like the choke wont ever buy. for 1300 if a found one in that good of shape maybe.
Personally I would check to make sure it has a stock cdi on it and check the stator output as others have already said.
Did you check out your coil yet if it's producing the right voltage
Put some play in that throttle cable you yo-yo
I know very little about enduro motorcycles, however when you were reading the charging system at the battery, it didn't seem to be charging properly!
I suspect that your ignition is running off the battery and drawing it down!
You might have a problem with the charging system or the voltage regulator.
Shouldn’t a battery be around 14volts while bike is running ? Maybe stator is shot
I think it's breaking up because of a spark issue that's what it sounds like to me
Yes. Did you notice he pulled that thingy off the top of the plug? Previous owner probably did that. Removing that is for old school engines with that exposed wire connection to the plug. It could be causing big misfires and the rev limiter is just tracking firings which it’s doing but it’s arcing in the boot. Kicking it over it will spark. Under load and it can’t fire the plug every revolution making it black. I’ve NEVER removed that from a plug on anything but a lawnmower
Sounds electrical. Like the stator. Not giving constant spark.
I was never a fan of ktm to begin with! I had a buddy who a couple years ago bought a brand new ktm 450 2017 and we went to the track and he hit a couple jumps before the forks snapped beneath him on a landing and he ate dirt hard, the bike was maybe 2 weeks old. I’ll always be a Yamaha guy!
replace mid body carby gaskets. if it has a slide check the gasket or o ring on that. I have a 01 wr250 that would still randomly when warm, miss on load and sometimes not start because of a bad mid body gasket and slide gasket. it wasn't even that bad but enough to make it do several weird things. another thing to check is try another coil in it. if the coils going bad it can break down when they get warm. process of elimination now.
I'd never planned on buying a KTM. But thank you for reinforcing my decision.
i just bought a husky after 30 years of hating on ktm. love the bike so far
@@brapptv44 So you bought a KTM after 30 years of hating on KTM? Brilliant.
@@brapptv44 sick dude which one did you get?
@@txsam2802 i got a fe501s. i was going to go with the crf450RL but couldn't find one anywhere. glad i got the husky tho. great bike
i have got a 525 exc racing 2004 with the rfs engine and its bulletproof ! its only done 110 hours and its tuned to 80hp!
the Plymouth dealership told me that it would be completely impossible for a human being any human being to rebuild that carburetor but I did it!
That looks like a nice bike I think it's worth figuring out what's wrong with it.
No, it's really not.
Yes it really is
@@katekirk4752It’s okay but exc 450 or 525 is better. I really like my 03 exc 525. Just riding and basic maintenance.
It sounds like it’s not getting enough gas. Try messing with the choke.
Sounds like an ignition problem (which is probably why it seems like the rev limiter).
Definitely ignition problem
I was just kidding around vintage guy I only had to control my wife!
love your videos
Try raising the needle in the carb slide 2 notches, if that improves things check the float height and set to factory settings then go back to the needle and set the best position by testing. Your problem is lean mixture not rich I think
Whoever sold you that bike knew they were selling you a lemon.
Had same problem on a yz450f. It had a 30 leak jet allowing accelerator pump to have to much pressure/fuel. Went to a 50 then raised needle. Ran like a champ after that.
I wouldn't say 'DON'T Buy a KTM'. . . But I would say don't buy a $1300, 20 year old KTM, with unknown mechanical and electrical issues and expect anything but the worst. I would definitely say that.
I mean, I like the channel, but dude brought home a bike without even knowing what year or model he bought. And couldn't find the choke. I don't know what to say except some people take care of there stuff and others don't. Not every cheap buy is a diamond in the rough.
Check the airfilter and intake track , if the carb is functioning as it’s suppose w stock jets and it’s pig rich then check the filter and intake track to make sure nothing made a nest or has it obstructed , if that’s Gucci time to check the valves and do a leak down test . I’ve seen cam lobes wear off which caused a similar issue .
Sounds like ignition issues. that was nominal voltage on your meter, charge should be more .
Lookup the 1/6 turn method for valve clearance. Do not use feeler gauges as they can mislead you if valve train is worn.