$3000 CURSED Dirt Bike Blows Up Every Time It Is Rebuilt
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- Опубликовано: 1 авг 2024
- I buy a 2001 Suzuki rm125 dirt bike that blew up after two rides and I rebuild it. #Suzuki, #125cc,
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HELLO, 50 years ago I was a mechanic for Honda.and I discovered that my Wife's Kenmore dish washing machine with the powdered Cascade soap did a job so good on washing motorcycle engine parts that they actually looked like new. The wife got over it eventually... Back then a new Gold Wing cost 3 K. The dish washer had a disinfectant cycle that had a heater unit in the bottom of it that heated the water to 180 degrees.... After many uses it did not even leave an oil film inside...and the dishes came out sparking also. It worked on the block halves and every other part even the carbs. I got brave and washed other parts including a 4 speed Muncie transmission out of a Ford 427 Cobra Jet... I was never disappointed. Back in the day we also trimmed the skirts on 2 stroke pistons in the port area to build more crankcase pressure it got so radical that it would blow out the crank seals right out of the cases. We had to peen the cases with a center punch and install the seals with red lock tight to hold them....When we did this we put the seals in first before joining the halves....Our shop had our own racing team and the owners who were man and wife were both West Coast Enduro Champions...They had twin sons that were also racers....I remember when the first water cooled 2 stokes came out and how strange they looked....I think that was 1976? My personal ride was a 1972 Honda CB 750 K. I rode it for over 300 thousand miles until my second wife got pissed off at me and ran over my bike with my Dodge power wagon...I decided to move on to wife #3. Getting a new wife is easy, replacing something that you love is harder.
I'm voting this for Best-Grease-Monkey post of the year. It even included ex-wife history. Well done.
I did that 40 years ago. I'd have a countertop dishwasher if I was doing this at home.
😂😂😂😂😂AWESOME!!! Loved every word of that!!
What year was your power wagon?
@@timbarry5080 🤣🤣
I worked at a 2 cycle motor shop for a few years when in school and as a second job. What was done on a rebuild always included checking all surfaces for flatness. If it was a motor we had not built the cylinder was cut to ensure the top and bottom were perpendicular to the bore. Pistons were measured for diameter and cylinders were honed and checked with a bore gauge to ensure they were round and not tapered, it was also the way proper piston to bore clearance. I hope she stays together for you, looks like a fun bike, always amazed me how much power a 125 two stroke can make
I get running a ball hone through if your putting in a new ring or have it apart to check wear or replace gaskets but once your buying a pile of parts it’s worth the time to go through more throughly.
old guy who grew up on a KX500 here and rode them for 40 years. Listen to this guy and get a feel for overheating.
Well said. I appreciate your attention to detail. I like Joe's style & i do the same. If it looks good, don't mess too much with it unnecessarily...:)
Your absolutely rite I worked at a machine shop and him saying you can't hone nickesil cylinders is incorrect you have to use the correct hone and honing oil for those cylinders, I build and port chainsaws and all those cylinders are nickesil so
@@larrywarner9314 Yep you just need the correct stones. Just because they call those things a ball "hone" does not make it a hone. There is no way to see what you are doing and ensure you are not honing a taper or "hole" into the bore without an actual honing machine. That is the thing about honing, really circular lapping, is that you can make a very accurate surface with the correct tools and knowledge
2 strokes are not treated the same as 4 strokes.
Damn man. Every video you put out teaches me something new....I deeply appreciate you sharing your knowledge and your attitude about it. Love it mane!
Dremel with the scotch brite pads are awesome gasket removers after razor blades. Want it clean for no leaks.
The times you use assembly lube and loctite, clean that lube out of the holes. It won't allow the threadlocker to cure rendering it useless. Same on another video were you got assembly lube on the rtv for case halves..that spot will leak eventually because rtv won't seal to metal with lube on the rtv
Great job on this one. This is why I watch your channel. Very interesting and thorough. Thanks again for your time today and enjoy your weekend.
The crush washers on the head can be heated with a torch and reused. It's called annealing. It swells them back to like new. Can be done a couple times. I like to lightly sand mine to make grooves as well.
Looking at the JIS screws for the shift shaft, it is apparent that people are not using the correct heads when tightening them. The US uses Phillips but Japanese bikes use Japanese Industry Standard patterns which are different and when you use a phillips #2 it does not get the full engagement resulting in damaged heads. You can also identify JIS by a dot usually stamped into the head
I learned about the JIS screws the hard way 😂
Same here😂 now I have a set of JIS tools. Makes life waay easier
I recently got me a set of Wera screwdrivers, best screwdrivers I've ever used. There JIS but also play very well with all other screws.
It's nice to have the bolster on a screw driver, great for working on old stuck screws.
Wow, I have been working on bikes for many years and am embarrassed to say that I have never known of "JIS" screws, have owned nothing other than Phillips drivers when working on them. I have seen many bikes with stripped out master cylinder cover screws, now I know why! Thanks!
So far i see five things you did not check or do that could be catastrophic
BRAVO, you didn't bury it. Love the engine rebuilds, always something to learn. Next we'll learn upgrading, maybe a 550 or 650 engine?
You have the patience of Saint. I'd have used the hammer - not in a good way - a lot sooner
A pressure check on any two stroke will help prevent failure on a new motor. A lot of comments on the lack of a crankshaft seal on here, by doing a pressure check on the motor after the rebuild you will catch mistakes like that. Hope you find that before it blows up again. nice video!
Back to the old tried and true dirt bikes. Another great video. Engine teardown, learning moments. Keep up with hard work and a variety
😅😅😢😢😢😢
This guy is the biggest hack going and you think he's good that's a joke
I feel I need to comment that the engine does not sound right . Check all settings are standard in carb . When you were fitting the ignition the left hand crank seal was missing , bike would run but poorly but if you removed ignition cover it would stop and not restart , I have seen this done !
love how you show us all how todo everything you are doing in the process of doing it. favorite youtube channel by far. edit- never knew that grease trick with gaskets before today thank you 🙌🏻
You can accomplish the same thing with gaskets by rubbing in a liberal application of Tri-Flow or a similar product, less messy, I do it on all gaskets and most gaskets can be re-used. Some just should not be used over, like the O-rings in that head and the crush washers, they crush once with no way to reshape them.
Great video joe. Ive been a rm lover for ever. Im 56 years old and had rms all my life. Such a good educational video for us. We thank you with your know how.
I am 55 years of age and also love the RM bikes i have owed over 30 of them i now have a mint 1982 rm 250 and a 2023 rmz 450 .
Stator went on with no crank seal installed 😮that’s going to be a problem. Hope you catch that before you ship it out the door. 15:33.
Probably why it’s revving out and going lean when idling.
Holy Moly!! Good catch. He better address this in a later video lol I am interested in what his reaction will be
Up
Yea I saw it too but some stuff he completely leaves out of the vid like putting the piston pin cir-clips in. He should at least say he did it.
Me and my brother were waiting for it to bog out and loose compression the whole time he was riding definitely why it has a hanging idle you would think he would now this after how many bikes he’s had but he thinks it’s too rich and needs less fuel🤔🤔
lol I love that he says it’s running great. That bike is screaming. Can’t wait to see if it blows up at the end of this video cause it’s not going to last long.
good thing you mentioned the 2 holes on the piston. i rebuilt my 125 recently and didnt know you had to do that. you just saved my ass!
I wasn't listening, what did he say?
if you buy a proper piston & not a cheap o you dont have to do it because it will come with the holes in it already
@@BoxingLegends2024 yea i took the pipe off and looked in it and it already had the hole in it, its a wiseco piston
im pretty much a amateur rider so 125s are about my speed, some of the more fun times in my life was on a rm 125. good detailed build man👍
BALLS TO THE WALLS: break-in ride complete (check)
All that work this kid does on this bike and he doesn't know how to break it in no wonder why they blow up He's running it at full he's got a pinned it's crazy to even watch it hurts my head I can't imagine that this kid doesn't know how to break a bike in unbelievable😂
Glad I’m not the only one who calls out his mistakes lol. His mechanic work is comical because usually it’s all incorrect
Dude I just wanna say I love the videos and vintage bike's. I live n breath all thing's motorcycle. You remind me of myself going through everything, so I enjoy watching and seeing them come back to life keep it up brother 🤘
I'll be 70 in a couple months and sure wish i knew about JIS screws in my 20's and since! I always had a hard time getting them out and ruined most of the heads.
Love your videos
Great vid. Always enjoy learning from you wrench’n on stuff…one thing I do for old gasket mat’l, is use a die grinder with a fine nylon pad & that old mat’l comes right off. Makes a slow tidious job go much quicker
The rod bearing is gone and thats why there are dings on the piston . The new chrome or newer coatings on cylinders dont get honed. Clean and buff at most or the coating will get wrecked. These videos are really fun to watch.
that idle still sounds way to high
The idle is still too high.
He did a good job of editing that out so you couldn't hear it.
he never put the crank seal on at 15:33 Air leak "high idle"
Get a cricut machine and sheets of gasket material. I cut all my own gaskets in the shop 😁
Good morning everyone!
Good morning
Goodnight from Australia
Morning
Hello from Nashville, TN! Morning!
It's not morning brother its afternoon here in the UK!🇬🇧
2:57-“yeah that rod feels good in there”😂
😩
Man, those birds in the background are going crazy :D lol
That bike is a beauty! Sounds great too. I think Suzuki has the best sounding bikes
Air screw adjustments are also a good indication of the jetting. General air screw settings are 1.5 turns out. With the bike warmed up and idling, start adjusting the air screw until you achieve the highest RPM. Count the number of turns out and then you will know if your low speed is too large ie 2 or 2.5 turns out or too small, fewer air screw turns. These are just general rules of thumb but a good thing to have in mind. Additionally, if you spray carb cleaner around the sealing areas and you get a increase in revs, you have an air leak in that area. Lastly, it is always best to use copper crush gaskets on the head bolts. It looked like one of those washers was a steel washer.
Good advice, but Joe already knows this. Many carbs come stock tune with 2.5 turns out on the air or fuel screw (depending on it being for a 2 or 4 stroke engine) Your comment got a "like" from me. Peace.
Is this for 2 strokes only? I've always been told 2.5 turns was perfect
@@forzanoobboth 2 stroke and 4 stroke all my bikes are 2.5
@@forzanoob , same thing I've known since first turning a wrench at East Coast Kawasaki in 1979.
@@forzanoob only 2 strokes, 4 strokes are normally about 2 an a half turns out
It sounds like the old suzuki 125 I use to own. It was a lot of fun. One ring racing piston too. So its a ripper for sure! Its a pretty nice lookng bike.
I admit I am addicted to watching you effortlessly diagnose and repair these machines. I can only make one suggestion related to a chain coming off a bike you were test riding...can you guess what i am thinking? Hint - its not running shoes. 🙂
Like your videos but
1, new top end do 3 to 5 heat cycles, 1st low low revs 10 mins idling, 1 min from end do quater revs, rest 30 to 60 mins, repeat 2nd time idling 5 mins then 5 mins quarter revs last min half revs. Then repeat 3rd time round idle 5 mins, rev half throttle 1min on 1 min off.
2, before riding any bike but especially new piston, Start up when ready pull away take it easy 10 mins only half throttle no high revs, once cylinder is hot after 10 mins engine heats up hotter than bike on idle, then after 10 mins do the quick high rev riding in power band but only hold it briefly, after 15mins hold it few seconds not too long, 2 or 3 seconds, then ride easy like this for 30mins until 1hr passes by on new piston, dont ride in power band alot while bedding everything in.
3, after 1 hr on piston after 30 mins ride after 3 heat cycles minimum 5 better, then hold the power band for abit longer few seconds not riding in power band over seconds.
Then then have 10 min rest or coffee break, then warm up easy for 10 to 15mins, similar processes, then after that Start riding it like you did when you first started riding the bike in this video.
You dont want score piston revving too high while cylinder not hot enough yet so no cold or hot seizures, or worse.
Always run 32to1 more oil better, slightly lean out carb from stock settings, so 1 needle clip leaner, 1 jet size smaller on small jet so idles lower quieter, air mixture screw may only need be 1 to 1.25 1.5 turns out max my 2000 cr250 1.25 turns out and still runs rich but better than stock, then bike should instantly rev from idle no bogging to full revs.
Have fun and keep life of your bike going strong for longer.
Once done all this, every ride after 10 to 15mins warmer, longer if very cold outside before riding its like you stolen it.
Then if you ride high revs alot chage piston at 20 hrs otherwise 30 hrs check it, may last 40hrs all depends how long you ride in high revs, if constantly in high revs like in sand or wet mud no more than 20hrs, some trial riders i.e can get 100hrs out of piston as not high revs enough but can then afford run less oil in tank. Lube up all parts, put 30 mmm or each sea foam, mmo, and zx1 friction eliminator in once in a while to, zx1 bonds at 60c so less friction on moving parts.
If storing bike through winter, sea foam in tank not much, then Start up 5mins on idle once every month or 2, after few months mix some fresh fuel in, then run bike 5mins then after 5mins again only quarter throttle revs as engine not hot full revs and will score piston.
Show more love to engines.
DON'T Start up any engine then rev shit out of it, or ride it high revs as you will not get best life out of parts.
Remember it wont take too long being patient before you race ride it, have fun pal good luck
Nice to see you clean the parts before install ! That's huge !
Great bike, love the Suzuki 2 strokes... that crisp popping sound is unique. Great vid
Some top notch break in procedures you used..lol
if rev the piss out of it was a person
Wow, just started watching so I'm assuming you blew it up too? Idk yet but can't wait to see, thanks for the great content lately!
Nope
@@tedkowal1 Not yet lol. Hopefully he catches the lack of a crank seal on the stator side..
He didn’t blow it up. He purchased it like that.
Cool! Take it out for a good rip now! Great video, thanks Joe!
We used to relieve exhaust port bridge a few thousandth s to allow for expansion on air cooled YZ and RMs before water cooled bikes.
Looks like oil mix to lean and or main jet to lean to ruin rod bearings .
RMs held up better than others .
I worked at dealership in NY.
Love 125 class .
Fastest class.
You cracked me up when you said the previous owner had the motor lock up on him then you said...."so something happen there" lol
you can get small brushes in packs of 50 or whatever and use those to paint on your grease, never seize, oil.. onto your gasket surfaces instead of the gasket itself and keep your hands clean. Good to hear the 2 smoke run.
Love your videos man... keep them coming!!!!
Detonation on the piston and head.
Yup. Either 2 much compression for the fuel or the timing is too far advanced
On my yz's I've always used a tach and set idle to 1000rpm, turned idle air in until rpm starts to drop then back out just until max idle is reached and give it an extra 32nd - 16th turn and then reset for 1000rpm idle. Makes it spot on w/no bogging down off ldle.
Many modern small bore bikes have sub-sizes on the bore and piston. A letter A, B, C, or D is inked on the outside of the cylinder. Make sure you buy the correct piston. Aftermarket pistons usually don’t offer sub-sizes, and sell loose pistons, so I buy OEM.
Personally I think 42:1 is way to lean especially for a fresh rebuild. 28:1 is good for a fresh rebuild and 32:1 for regular riding.
Haha run good oil you can run 50-1 and be just fine.
@@Fox250R not sure about that I would still run 32:1 no matter the oil brand or cc’s
@@quinnhoddenbagh5456 look up Klotz 2 stroke oil
@@Fox250R right run some old benol from klotz at 32;1 and youd better have some spare plugs or be wide open constantly lol love klotz and some groovy grape upper cylinder lube/fuel fragrance by power plus.
Sounds like it's starving for fuel revving it's tits off😅
I drilled an extra hole for my bridge port in my 77 RM. 125....piston.
Sold my 250f an got an 01 just like this did a restyle on it out the gate I love it so much lighter and plenty of power
Just love all the carb sputtering and shift misses . 🤣
I was gone say I’d resurface the head then you ended up doing it anyway not a big setback though! Great job on the rebuild and video bud.
Awsome video joe! Great job as per usual
TYVM allways well made and fun to watch (from Quebec Canada )
Yo 2vin awesome wort as always, so I’ve just rebuilt a rmz250 put oil in and started straight up, put coolant in and it went straight in the engine 😢 stripped it back down can’t see anything wrong all looks good and help guys 😩👍
Whatcha know, Joe..lool Don't feel bad. I had a similar experience with a 1978 YZ250. Wish I had it to diagnose now. Been a long time.
Outstanding video, great job. Fun to watch
I’ve just subscribed
With all your videos. I feel pretty confident when buying a motocross bike for me and my boy for the first time thanks buddy👍
Man I do miss that sound when you dig in and go
Id say the last guy had a bad premix oil and not enough of it im 44 now and have rode my whole life and i only ever used either caster 927 or honda hp2 never had a issue or foulded plug with either and i love the smell of the caster oil lol
I have a hot rods crank in my cr125, it’s ran good for the last year since I installed it. Just double check the trueness of cranks before install
When I put my gaskets on I put a little silicone around the gaskets to keep them from moving when u torque the head down plus incase u need a little extra seal it’ll help but jst a tip I do when fixing my sleds after They overheated
And better watch that high idle after you rebuild one that will cold seize that piston
I had a few CR250's and had excellent results from running really good gas and Klotz Beanoil. Never ever had issues
Yep the green scotch Brite would on nikisil,I have seen people use a ball hone and it works
Those old 2 strokes were the way to go for dirt riding with their snappy engine response. I always preferred the smoother 4 stroke engines for street riding.
That thing revs half as quick as a new 450. Efi changed the game
There's something about the sound of a performance two-stroke engine getting revved, if you can get it, put some Castrol R in the petrol as well, the exhaust smell is amazing
The hole on the piston is to lubricate the small end bearing you forgot to put your crankshaft seal in
😂 Looks like the internet wins again. I dont see any seal behind the stator either 🎉
The holes are the lubricant the bridge in the exhaust port
Was waiting for this video, Good job!
Pro tip: grease up the mating surfaces with a small brush rather getting your hands covered in grease by greasing the gasket.
2:56 that's what she said💀💀
🤣😂🤣😂
Sounds amazing. Awesome job.
Good lad that sounds so so nice
Keep up the good work love your video that you make
From the UK
I love his content don't get me wrong but he is a prime example that engines don't need to be perfect to run. There is a pretty big margin for sloppiness when it comes to engine building and I'm sure it surprises some people who watch his videos. lol
Love the videos man but Ya forgot the heat cycles man😂😂
I had coolant coming thru stud as well on my LT..had it decked etc and solved the issue.. fresh washers etc
You always do a great job on your videos, One thing I have to say is, all that assembly lube in the threads, Loctite will not set if any oils are in the threads.. JS?! 😕
Man I just love the sound of this bike. It brings back memories
The inner clutch hub rides directly on the needle bearing? I thought there was a washer in between them?
Not knocking joe , but there are ways to prevent blowing up rebuilt 2 sroke engines and ive never seen him pressure test or vac test an engine
Still idling like a dc10 lol 😅😂
If u put one aide of the circlip on 1st it makes it way easier on the wrist pin
Awesome job! 👍 she sure sounds excellent after all the work put in.
your videos never cease to amaze me.
Though I didn’t see Vinny the lovable
Pup make an appearance. My daughter
just loves to see the little guy in your
Videos.
Runs like shit
I once had an older RD500 4 cyl v-4 2-stroke and also ran into the issue with coolant coming from the upper head bolts. When I researched it it turned out to be because I had put the wrong nuts on. There were supposed to be domed nuts and not regular ones. With domed nuts the coolant stayed in the head. Very weird stuff.
straight Champion this guy is right here
He didn’t show it on video, but when putting the piston pin circling in, always put a rag under the piston in case the clips flys off and down the crankcase during attempt. Engine out yea you can try and flip it upside down. In the frame not as easy.
You should hang a can of premix up above the bike and have a hose with a valve on it so you can test these bikes without having to put the gas tank back on. It'll make it much easier to see everything while you're still troubleshooting
I have a pal that am races this model bike. he loves it & has only rebuilt it a few times. he’s really fast
Love your videos pal, yet to say ,you've titled this one spot on , there is another vid on tube somewhere.
It covers the history os susuki , and basically, they scripted and saved ,way too much. To the point they made careless mistake on their bikes !! So to you, good luck 🤞... look for video , history of susuki or something similar
Nice case.. great job finding that, they suck to find. Never to much when it comes to pre lube.
too much
Thanks for the great vid Im having a hell of a time finding electrical parts for my 91rm 125 .I already bought 2 CDIs off of Ebay that dont work , Where do you get your ignition parts for older bikes
Did you manage to find a CDI mate?
When lapping something (head) on a glass surface with abrasive or wet/dry paper, should use figure-of-eight motion, not circular. So as to change leading edge on the lapped part, avoid removing more material on one edge.
Probably whats in piston crown, rod bearing chunks, seen it before but they usually tear up a lot of crap to.nice bike
Rod bearing wear can be measured by how much side to side play it has, (and still have no up and down movement), and that one does look new. There is a specification somewhere for it.
I swear I know of a guy in his mid 80's and still rides that model. True!
you can drill a cup in every cracks end so its cant go forward,then take a grinder and grind the crack a u shabe so deep at you cant see any cracks lines, then you can use braising rod and braising flux or just use tic weld to fix all.
the case area where the rod goes cracks on them little pieces chip off & that's what makes the piston lock up used to happen on my RM125 1999 too
My brother had a Kawasaki that done the same thing every time you rebuilt it it would blow the top out of the piston even though the valves were set right and everything. Just like your banner says cursed and cursed it was. Finally we just bought a new motor and that fixed it
The "skirts" of the cylinder are the protruding sections at the bottom of the bore of the cylinder that protrude into the cylinder cases, (the bore skirt below the base gasket). I am a bit surprised the cylinder uses a bridged exhaust port. Most got rid of the bridge and went to sub exhaust ports for a wider port. That bridge design has been proven to be easier to seize at times, which is why you are putting holes in the piston. I think, to reduce the chance of seizure, the bridges have been made a bit concave, about .003" away from the piston/rest of the wall, to allow for expansion and not touch the piston.
01-02 have a shity port design
Hey Joe that other crank might make a good anchor for one of your boats
Clean bike sounds good to good vid and build keep up the good work