5:56 The pivot bushing for the guide rod is supposed to be a stone compensator. You set it to the thickness of your stone (slide the stone under and then tighten) and if your other stones or strops are of a different thickness, you use it to adjust by compensating for the thickness. That way you don't have to change your angle.
I think that the variable height of the pivot bearing shaft is to be able to switch stones that have different thicknesses and still keep the same angle.
Thank-you so much for this video! I tightened up the 180 degree blade turner assembly, which was the most important adjustment. The front set screw was too loose. I also disassembled and adjusted the blade angle control assembly. The position of the angle lock lever was too far forward, so I rotated it by 90 degrees, and now it is in a better position for usability. Disassembling it was a bit of a challenge as they used threadlocker not only on the threads, but also to set the position of the lever. Once I got it adjusted, I also now understand how the angle lock pressure plate is designed. These adjustments have improved the usability and quality of the sharpener.
even with it flaws witch are few, its the best sharpening system for the price. Plus the tsprof parts interchange with it. The best thing you can do is get rid of the diamond plates that are plastic and get the better ones from another company with aluminum or steel backing. so no more bowing. Plus i have found grit contamination on the high grit diamond plates what come with the system. Great video brother, i love your channel keep up the great work.
Hey, you have a video monitor on your watch. That's pretty slick! Nice breakdown on the sharpener, I really appreciate how thorough you are on everything.
Very good video! I have watched a couple videos and this one has been really informative. I noticed someone else commented to you about the stone compensator adjustment, that is something I learned from another video as well. Thanks so much!
basically every word that starts with x makes a “z” sound in the English language. It is pronounced ZARLIK. Very surprised how many people didn’t even attempt to try and pronounce it.. ZARLIK. Btw, this system is absolutely amazing for the money. The stones suck tho…..you’re going to need to spend money on good stones. The stones needed will costs more than the device itself. As far as the “bow” goes……I actually like it. Gives the edge a slight hollow grind……..wish most stones would bow a little bit than spring back. obviously there’s an easy fix as stated in the end. Thank you for your time
@@zig9449 Thanks for an info comment. I will be trying the aluminum-backed plates soon. Also, check out the second video on this device, I measured repeatability when switching from side to side.
I just got one of these on the Amazon sale. Luckily it looks like they put aluminum backers on the stones now instead of the plastic. I was worried about the stone bowing but when I unpacked it an hour ago I was pleased to see that they listened to the feedback and fixed that issue. Now I can get to sharpening my kitchen knives for turkey day in 48 hours. 👍Overall very pleased with the system, it should be a nice upgrade from my KME.
@@CuttingBoardRx That's great, was wondering how to use them properly in addition to the 3 plates that came with the gen 3 since I have all the gold series kme stones. They did fix that hand guard as well, they flattened the top and bottom so it won't roll.
@@CuttingBoardRx That may have been a short term fix until they got the new parts in. Mine has an elongated aluminum octagon with a rubber pad on the hand side. It's nicely made. For the price they didn't cut corners, they could have gotten away with a piece of plastic but they did it right. I'm very pleased with the system. Recommending it to the couple of knife nerds that I know.
I have this version and the Gen 2. I have sharpened 100's of knives on both and in my humble opinion the Gen 2 is a much better system in almost every aspect. I would value your opinion on the Gen 2 version also. I also noticed the issue with the plastic backed stones and I purchased the Edge Pro diamond matrix stones to use. As of the last couple of months the Xarilk Gen 3 has sat on the shelf unused because it is far inferior to the older model. I have even thought of giving it away. Thanks for all of your hard work and informative videos.
@@davidv7403 Thanks for your input as well! If you don’t mind, could you please replicate the 8 steps that I’m recommending here on your Gen 3 system and comment on how that changed (or didn’t) the results? Thanks in advance!
@@CuttingBoardRx I have replicated your suggestions. My sharpener did not have the issue with the set screws. Mine came tight from the factory and are still tight with all the use. I do have an issue where when I flip the knife it is about a half degree difference from side to side, so I also removed the silicone tape I had wrapped on the clamps and I now only use a piece of tape on the back edge of the blade itself to secure the knife. My main complaint with Gen 3 is the initial setup is much harder to set my angle than on the Gen 2, don't get me wrong, it isn't difficult, just an extra step compared to the Gen 2. The Gen 2 you can level the stone holder to the base after you set your angle on the blade and you are off an running. I am getting good results with this unit, these are minor complaints and preferences. I am curious if the TSprof accessory clamps are compatible with this unit? Has anyone tried? If so comment. Thanks!
@@d.eddlemon You know, I’m looking back at the day when TS Prof offered me an affiliation complete with a free system and 7% commission and I turned it down. And I regret absolutely nothing. I can’t see how Russian production quality can possibly be better than Chinese. Maybe because I worked in a machine shop in USSR?
Haha, I wasn't expecting that! Wow, thank-you for the kind & over embellishing words. Little far fetched, perhaps. I mean, it's just an observation.... and lifes' learned lessons/mistakes taking things for granted. I noticed the incl. plates arcing towards the bar, so I was getting a convex edge. Yours go out. I suppose that is the outcome of stresses on the materials when gluing them together. I found that sweet spot when 'tensioning' the plates in the holder, Three Bears style. Just play around a bit. You're already aware of the angle of the dangle, meaning the orientation of the blade in the clamps in regards to edge angle synchronicity. (word of the day) that I noticed right away with the bevel being different heights from one side to the other. (Worksharp Ken Onion Edition has the same issue, FYI) The TSPROF plates I got were $152 CAN on Amazon. Not cheap, not expensive either. From what I've found, they're a good quality diamond plate that has a metal backing. The plastic backed ones work & aren't bad for home use. Consistency is key when sharpening. That's what a guided system is all about, to correct that. That's another reason I got the metal backed plates. Also, I don't buy that you sharpened that tanto's edge with that bevel unintentionally. Not you. You would notice that as soon as you completed one pass 😅. Right away I dismissed that & went with, he did it for the channel. 😎 Good on ya! Looking forward to P2. Cheers
@@Rottidog68 I would love to have as many subscribers in Canada as possible, so I think you should inform ALL your friends that you are on RUclips now. Once they see the video, I bet both of them will subscribe! 😂 just kidding, insinuating that a gent who knows as much about sharpening as you do, may not have a huge social circle. And I’m speaking from experience 🤣
I got my Gen 3 yesterday. It came with aluminum sharpening plates and an octagonal handguard. However, it did NOT come with the thumbscrew for the stone holder on the handguard/spring side.
How are the stones, for longevity? I have a different brand that was popular maybe 2 years ago, the stones and even the diamond stones are crap. Love your insight on this sharpener. Have seen other channels do videos on this one, and i looks good and in a good price point.
@@davez5941 I am up to 5 sharpenings on this device, 3 of them were D2, one AUS10 and one 14C28N. So far no damage or degradation. That said I have also added a $40 set of aluminum-backed plates from a different brand amzn.to/4fg0Vql but haven’t used them. Hope this helps and thanks for subscribing!
Thanks for all your advice and help, ive used all your suggestions on the work sharp elite and had great results, just got the xarlick 3 today and will use these,So in your opinion is this system better than precision elite????¿
IMHO XARILK Gen 3 gives you more bench top flexibility and WS Elite gives you almost full functionality while being a great potable system. XARILK foldable could compete in that arena if it was capable of accommodating normal range of blade thickness. I think you have the best of both worlds.
Thank you for this. It's time for me to move on from my lansky system and need to decide between Worksharp Professional, KME (new and old), or other system. I want to spend my money wisely.
@@ras9182 Work Sharp has its own set of problems and you can watch my videos about it here Using Work Sharp Precision Adjust Tools on the Next Level to get More Than You Paid For. ruclips.net/p/PLQk7wjytAnykFremIu9qHPgOi5gRZz8Xk Bear with me before you pull the triggers d read all comments because some of the information may save you pain and money!
I recently got a KME. Maybe it is learning curve but I tend to get a noticeable edge angle change when stroking the the stone across the blade. Probably the rubber insert in the jaws flexing. The lil 3 blade handle the tightens the jaws is insufficient. It is not jaws and not the rest of the machine. Problem 2 with my KME, you gotta remove the rod every time you flip the knife. The 4" Gold series stones are excellent. 6" would be beetter and I hear the newer version does have 6"ers.
@ Sorry to hear that you are having issues. On Work Sharp, I use two hands to crank the clamp. I also try to not apply downward pressure when sharpening. Please watch some of my WS videos, there may be some ideas there that you can transfer to your device, like the blade supports etc.
I recommend the Hapstone system. Imo it's the best bang for the buck and second best overall to TSProf. They have lots of great accessories for it, the quality is very high and its consistent, its a Ukrainian company and not Russian (if that matters to you), they're really friendly from my dealings with them. I got the upgraded post that has gear angle adjustment and I couldn't be happier with the system.
Thank you for these tips. QUESTION: Do you know if there is a way to adjust the tension on the swivel lock mechanism, I assume by loosening the set screws, resetting the placement of the stop lock then re- tightening the set screws? Mine is extremely tight and needs adjustment.
I bought the set of the TS prof diamond basic stones, i found them on sale for $69 on Amazon. Enormous difference. But there is a set of 10 amazon stones with aluminum backers that are $30-ish dollars and are still a huge improvement, despite losing a lot of diamond grit very early in their life.
As Chriswebb3018 and Rottidog68 made reference to - I have a different knife angle after flipping. Depending on the knife width, it can be as little a .5° or as much as 1.4°. It's infuriating when trying to develop and tame the bur. Normally I'd feel for the bur after sharpening one side, the flip and very lightly draw the stone across the edge to address the bur, then continue to develop the angle - and repeat. But with the angle changing I have to stop, adjust the knife angle, check for bur, flip the blade, adjust the knife angle, knock down the bur, flip the knife, adjust the knife angle and so on. I've narrowed it down to the blade clamps. The rotating mechanism is less then .05° out of whack - which is not enough to worry about. The design seems to rely heavily on the consistency of the pour in the cast aluminum clamps. Any inconsistency will make one part of the clamp stiffer than the other, and it could result in discrepancies. I am tightening the clamps to 20 in-lb. The only good thing about this - if there is a good thing - is that the error is 100% repeatable. Flipping the blade always results in one angle on the first side, and the same different angle on the flip side. It just looks weird because the bevel is different. Is anyone else seeing this issue? Should I reach out to customer service to see if they can send out a second set of clamps?
@@gene1951 the clamps aren’t cast, they are milled out of solid billet. If you’re not using a torque driver, there’s no way to ensure that you will have a symmetrical compression on both clamps. Regardless, if you’re getting the 1.4° repeatable variance, do this: Leave the blade clamped! With the knife clamped, unscrew and detach the clamps from the device. With the knife still clamped, Flip the whole assembly on the opposite side and reassemble to the device. Measure the angles now. You should have a lot less difference. Final thought: many knives have been asymmetrically sharpened at the factory, not even the best makers can assure that. Recommend measuring the secondary bevels and if you get more than .010” difference between bevel widths, address this in your setup.
@@CuttingBoardRx My bad on the composition of the blade clamps. I am using a torque driver - in fact the same one your recommend - the SanLiang. I am using 20 in-lbs which is plenty. I use a light touch on sharpening. I'm retired, so I have all the time in the world. I am not sure I understand primary and secondary bevel. In woodworking, I sharpen my chisels and plane irons with a 25° primary bevel and a 30° secondary bevel at the edge. I've tried a dual bevel approach on my kitchen knives, and found it to be of little benefit for my use. I use a single bevel of 20° (40° inclusive), and that seems to be a good tradeoff between edge durability and cutting performance. I use primarily Global brand knives. Global uses a proprietary steel, Chromova18, which is a high carbon steel with molybdenum and vanadium mix to achieve a serviceable hardness rating of 56-58 HRC. It is good to hear that even the knife makers end up with asymmetrical bevels- something I never looked at before getting my Gen3. Clamping the knife and removing it from the rotator by removing the thumb screws and manually flipping it and reattaching was a great suggestion. My first test showed
@ I do Not believe anything that comes out of Russia has the potential to be any better than anything that comes out of China as far as the industrial equipment. So it doesn’t matter if TS Prof is even making parts in RF or ships them from the PRC for assembly in the RF, there’s no quality difference between TS Prof and XARILK. The finishes are nicer on TSP but it’s all cosmetic. It’s like buying Maytag vs. Whirlpool appliance: they come from the same factory, whether entirely or partially. I am planning to do a video dispelling the need for any additional clamps, gadgets, extenders etc. TS Prof offers free sharpeners to knife reviewers and 7% commission for anything that people buy via affiliate links. I have an offer from them that I turned down. So I would take anything these reviewers spew with a table spoon of salt. I need to have a video up on that topic. Please inspect the coating on the clamps and the rail for some risers, bumps, burrs. That could be another cause. Primary bevel/primary grind on a knife blade is the surface leading from the spine or the flat towards the edge or secondary bevel. Some people add a micro or tertiary bevel, but this is mostly for the very chippy steels like VG10, 440, RPM9 etc. This is akin to aggressive stropping, and it improves the apex stability. I would not recommend it unless you getting chips on the apex
Is there any variation in degree of angle from flipping from side to side? Im assuming tightening all the set screws gets it close but there could machining inconsistencies that can make the angle change. Thanks
Looking at Amazon, I've seen a few reviews that the clamp on xarilk is not strong and quickly broke. So I'm wondering if the clamp on tsprof is compatible with this product as well. If possible, I'm thinking of buying a clamp on tsprof that's on sale separately and making a hybrid.
I veeery rarely go fixed angle but I will listen and probably learn something. I'm enjoying your content greatly - but now we got beef!!! We were discussing the Launch 4 in CPM 154 in your comments, whereby you sent me to your video on some Vosteed or other for reference. I checked it out and left a comment - but my comment was regarding my experience with CPM 154 whereas your Vosteed is a mere CM 154. Another commenter had to kindly correct my noob error. My comment was contextually goofy and that was entirely my fault, owing to lack of awareness: hence I am projecting that fault onto you for your part in the debacle. ;D
@@dongkhamet1351 🤣 It’s 154 CM as in Crucible Metallurgy or CPM 154 as in Crucible Particle Metallurgy. As to the steel itself, if you had the same exact knife with its blade made of properly sourced and properly heat treated 440C stainless, you would not notice any quantifiable differences between it and 154 CM. In fact, the sharpening angle that you would choose would have an order of magnitude higher effect on edge retention and toughness. In fact, going to CPM 154 in this example would result in one and only observable difference: improved corrosion resistance. See, more beef👍
@@CuttingBoardRx thank you man that is some tasty beef for me to chew on! But wait - wouldn't powder metallurgy, as in eg CPM vs CM 154, result in smaller carbides, leading to improved edge performance across the board? Albeit indeed I was not aware that particle metallurgy also improved corrosion resistance, but that might well stand to reason. Because of the smaller carbides that lead to improved toughness, edge retention and so on. I might have to double check on what 🎼Dr Larrin Thomas🎶 has to say on the matter but I'm fairly certain that his assertions run contrary to yours - unless I misunderstand your sense of humour, or something...(?)
@@dongkhamet1351 CPM 154 was an early PM steel that was developed mainly for making ball bearings, where strength in compression far exceeds the need for strength in tension. In tension, it’s the most brittle of all PM steels in tension due to absence of vanadium in its composition. Dr. Thomas tables are showing toughness determined by the impact test, which is designed to predict the chipping resistance of the sample but has no predictive indication as to bending. As to corrosion resistance, PM steels have significantly less impurities in their composition. That and smaller and more evenly distributed carbides improve the CR properties. Bottom line, here’s an analogy: think of 154 CM or CPM as concrete and the more advanced steels as wire reinforced concrete when it comes to bending.
@@CuttingBoardRx bruh, smaller carbides lead to improved toughness just as no carbides also improves toughness. You want the carbides there at all, why? - for edge retention. Why are you trying to baffle me with all the technical bs instead of acknowledging your initial error? By now you have made several more, including directly contradicting yourself from one comment to the next. That's (a) improved corrosion resistance, alone, to (b) yes, improved toughness but who cares. Who cares is me because I use knives for actual knife stuff, not just for collecting and performing testing largely abstracted from real-life use. Which is cool and all! It isn't only me. Dr Larrin Thomas cares. You really might brush up on what he has to say instead of pretending you are his defender then straight up repeatedly contracting his research, here. I suppose you are a smart, knowledgeable and dedicated fellow with good intents and an excellent channel. Being able to admit when one is in error is another order of characteristic and if you're not there yet I won't hold it against you. It might get harder to take some of your opinions seriously but your testing is first rate and fairly incontrovertible in what it reveals. Your content is well executed and often gets a laugh as well as being genuinely informative. Thank you for your time. Don't waste any more on me today, you know what I think you ought to be doing. Reading up on powder metallurgy on a certain nerds' website. ;D
@@dongkhamet1351 I thought you honestly wanted to know my opinion. Before you comment next time, please look up the term Dunning-Kruger phenomenon. Until then, thanks for watching.
@@Wyldwulf That sucks! I just tried to take mine apart on case it is something simple but there’s nothing obvious that could be done to fix it. There is a set screw hidden in the aluminum cage the whole thing sits in, but loosening it didn’t cause the spherical bushing to fall out. Send it back! QC should have caught it! I’m putting the contract email for their customer service in the video description. The rep goes by Jonny.
I love my Work Sharp P sharpener, but I must admit that your new toy is better for: 1. Larger kitchen knives that bend with only 1 clamp. 2. You can use larger stones
@@luisnouel4268 I hope you have watched my most viewed (40k and counting) video of the fixes I had to apply to WS Pro PA, just in case here’s the link: Episode #1. Did Work Sharp stop $3 short of Professional level? Is it really PRECISION Adjust-able? ruclips.net/video/-icrEyk8Mww/видео.html This thing here is rock solid from day one, once the 8 steps are implemented. How it will hold up will be soon obvious because I HAVE KNIVES TO SHARPEN!
@@MantisTobaggan84 I don’t have any experience with TS Prof brand (I actually turned down the collaboration offer from them). Other than the points I made in this video, I haven’t discovered any obvious issues. Based on some comments, ordering TS Prof or maybe Hapstone plates would bring XARILK to about the same level.
I see you took down my comments that I posted to your channel on this video topic. If you have an issue with my comments let me know. I can go away if my comments or views on your channel are unwanted!
@@wayneanderson991 I don’t see your comments in this thread or in RUclips filtered area. I also see your comments under other videos. Please feel free to comment again. Looking forward to constructive feedback!
@@CuttingBoardRx At this point I will just wait until your next video in the series. I will offer my input at that time if appropriate. Maybe I just forgot to hit the reply button and thought I posted.
@@mel87123 You refer to "razor sharp" i can do that with a 320 or 400 grit stone too. No im worried about the look of the sharpened blade, it will and looks like absolute trash, because of what is called grit contamination.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
As always, read the comments below and I’m always looking for feedback!
5:56 The pivot bushing for the guide rod is supposed to be a stone compensator. You set it to the thickness of your stone (slide the stone under and then tighten) and if your other stones or strops are of a different thickness, you use it to adjust by compensating for the thickness. That way you don't have to change your angle.
@@MFD00MTR33 Great tip! Thanks! I’ll be sure to demonstrate in the next video!
I think that the variable height of the pivot bearing shaft is to be able to switch stones that have different thicknesses and still keep the same angle.
You are correct!
Thank-you so much for this video! I tightened up the 180 degree blade turner assembly, which was the most important adjustment. The front set screw was too loose. I also disassembled and adjusted the blade angle control assembly. The position of the angle lock lever was too far forward, so I rotated it by 90 degrees, and now it is in a better position for usability. Disassembling it was a bit of a challenge as they used threadlocker not only on the threads, but also to set the position of the lever. Once I got it adjusted, I also now understand how the angle lock pressure plate is designed. These adjustments have improved the usability and quality of the sharpener.
even with it flaws witch are few, its the best sharpening system for the price. Plus the tsprof parts interchange with it. The best thing you can do is get rid of the diamond plates that are plastic and get the better ones from another company with aluminum or steel backing. so no more bowing. Plus i have found grit contamination on the high grit diamond plates what come with the system. Great video brother, i love your channel keep up the great work.
@@sodalines Thanks for subscribing!
Guess what! XARILK is now shipping with aluminum backed plates that are pattered! Much higher quality media!
Hey, you have a video monitor on your watch. That's pretty slick! Nice breakdown on the sharpener, I really appreciate how thorough you are on everything.
Apple… too bad they don’t make knives.
Very good video! I have watched a couple videos and this one has been really informative. I noticed someone else commented to you about the stone compensator adjustment, that is something I learned from another video as well. Thanks so much!
basically every word that starts with x makes a “z” sound in the English language. It is pronounced ZARLIK. Very surprised how many people didn’t even attempt to try and pronounce it.. ZARLIK.
Btw, this system is absolutely amazing for the money. The stones suck tho…..you’re going to need to spend money on good stones.
The stones needed will costs more than the device itself.
As far as the “bow” goes……I actually like it. Gives the edge a slight hollow grind……..wish most stones would bow a little bit than spring back.
obviously there’s an easy fix as stated in the end.
Thank you for your time
@@zig9449 Thanks for an info comment. I will be trying the aluminum-backed plates soon. Also, check out the second video on this device, I measured repeatability when switching from side to side.
I just got one of these on the Amazon sale. Luckily it looks like they put aluminum backers on the stones now instead of the plastic. I was worried about the stone bowing but when I unpacked it an hour ago I was pleased to see that they listened to the feedback and fixed that issue. Now I can get to sharpening my kitchen knives for turkey day in 48 hours. 👍Overall very pleased with the system, it should be a nice upgrade from my KME.
@@npenick66 I’m about to publish the next video just in time for the 🍗🦃
It will help with using your KME plates 👍
@@CuttingBoardRx That's great, was wondering how to use them properly in addition to the 3 plates that came with the gen 3 since I have all the gold series kme stones. They did fix that hand guard as well, they flattened the top and bottom so it won't roll.
@ Someone else mentioned that they eliminated the handguard completely. Hmmm.
@@CuttingBoardRx That may have been a short term fix until they got the new parts in. Mine has an elongated aluminum octagon with a rubber pad on the hand side. It's nicely made. For the price they didn't cut corners, they could have gotten away with a piece of plastic but they did it right. I'm very pleased with the system. Recommending it to the couple of knife nerds that I know.
@npenick66 Great! Please let your friends know about my videos featuring this sharpener (I’m about to publish a third one)
I have this version and the Gen 2. I have sharpened 100's of knives on both and in my humble opinion the Gen 2 is a much better system in almost every aspect. I would value your opinion on the Gen 2 version also. I also noticed the issue with the plastic backed stones and I purchased the Edge Pro diamond matrix stones to use. As of the last couple of months the Xarilk Gen 3 has sat on the shelf unused because it is far inferior to the older model. I have even thought of giving it away. Thanks for all of your hard work and informative videos.
@@davidv7403 Thanks for your input as well! If you don’t mind, could you please replicate the 8 steps that I’m recommending here on your Gen 3 system and comment on how that changed (or didn’t) the results? Thanks in advance!
@@CuttingBoardRx I have replicated your suggestions. My sharpener did not have the issue with the set screws. Mine came tight from the factory and are still tight with all the use. I do have an issue where when I flip the knife it is about a half degree difference from side to side, so I also removed the silicone tape I had wrapped on the clamps and I now only use a piece of tape on the back edge of the blade itself to secure the knife. My main complaint with Gen 3 is the initial setup is much harder to set my angle than on the Gen 2, don't get me wrong, it isn't difficult, just an extra step compared to the Gen 2. The Gen 2 you can level the stone holder to the base after you set your angle on the blade and you are off an running. I am getting good results with this unit, these are minor complaints and preferences. I am curious if the TSprof accessory clamps are compatible with this unit? Has anyone tried? If so comment. Thanks!
@@davidv7403Literally working on the next video that covers some of what you’re talking about! Thanks!
@davidv7403 According to Neeves Knives' latest video, the TSPROF clamps are compatible with Gen3, but they are pricey. 😢
@@d.eddlemon You know, I’m looking back at the day when TS Prof offered me an affiliation complete with a free system and 7% commission and I turned it down. And I regret absolutely nothing. I can’t see how Russian production quality can possibly be better than Chinese. Maybe because I worked in a machine shop in USSR?
Haha, I wasn't expecting that! Wow, thank-you for the kind & over embellishing words. Little far fetched, perhaps. I mean, it's just an observation.... and lifes' learned lessons/mistakes taking things for granted.
I noticed the incl. plates arcing towards the bar, so I was getting a convex edge. Yours go out. I suppose that is the outcome of stresses on the materials when gluing them together. I found that sweet spot when 'tensioning' the plates in the holder, Three Bears style. Just play around a bit.
You're already aware of the angle of the dangle, meaning the orientation of the blade in the clamps in regards to edge angle synchronicity. (word of the day) that I noticed right away with the bevel being different heights from one side to the other. (Worksharp Ken Onion Edition has the same issue, FYI)
The TSPROF plates I got were $152 CAN on Amazon. Not cheap, not expensive either. From what I've found, they're a good quality diamond plate that has a metal backing.
The plastic backed ones work & aren't bad for home use. Consistency is key when sharpening. That's what a guided system is all about, to correct that. That's another reason I got the metal backed plates.
Also, I don't buy that you sharpened that tanto's edge with that bevel unintentionally. Not you. You would notice that as soon as you completed one pass 😅. Right away I dismissed that & went with, he did it for the channel. 😎 Good on ya!
Looking forward to P2.
Cheers
@@Rottidog68 I would love to have as many subscribers in Canada as possible, so I think you should inform ALL your friends that you are on RUclips now. Once they see the video, I bet both of them will subscribe! 😂 just kidding, insinuating that a gent who knows as much about sharpening as you do, may not have a huge social circle. And I’m speaking from experience 🤣
I got my Gen 3 yesterday. It came with aluminum sharpening plates and an octagonal handguard. However, it did NOT come with the thumbscrew for the stone holder on the handguard/spring side.
CBRx=SMART. Great tutorial!
@@mel87123 …bandaids not withstanding.
Been looking forward to this. Let’s go!
How are the stones, for longevity? I have a different brand that was popular maybe 2 years ago, the stones and even the diamond stones are crap. Love your insight on this sharpener. Have seen other channels do videos on this one, and i looks good and in a good price point.
@@davez5941 I am up to 5 sharpenings on this device, 3 of them were D2, one AUS10 and one 14C28N. So far no damage or degradation.
That said I have also added a $40 set of aluminum-backed plates from a different brand amzn.to/4fg0Vql but haven’t used them. Hope this helps and thanks for subscribing!
Thanks for all your advice and help, ive used all your suggestions on the work sharp elite and had great results, just got the xarlick 3 today and will use these,So in your opinion is this system better than precision elite????¿
IMHO XARILK Gen 3 gives you more bench top flexibility and WS Elite gives you almost full functionality while being a great potable system. XARILK foldable could compete in that arena if it was capable of accommodating normal range of blade thickness. I think you have the best of both worlds.
Thank you for this. It's time for me to move on from my lansky system and need to decide between Worksharp Professional, KME (new and old), or other system. I want to spend my money wisely.
@@ras9182 Work Sharp has its own set of problems and you can watch my videos about it here
Using Work Sharp Precision Adjust Tools on the Next Level to get More Than You Paid For.
ruclips.net/p/PLQk7wjytAnykFremIu9qHPgOi5gRZz8Xk
Bear with me before you pull the triggers d read all comments because some of the information may save you pain and money!
I recently got a KME. Maybe it is learning curve but I tend to get a noticeable edge angle change when stroking the the stone across the blade. Probably the rubber insert in the jaws flexing. The lil 3 blade handle the tightens the jaws is insufficient. It is not jaws and not the rest of the machine. Problem 2 with my KME, you gotta remove the rod every time you flip the knife. The 4" Gold series stones are excellent. 6" would be beetter and I hear the newer version does have 6"ers.
@ Sorry to hear that you are having issues. On Work Sharp, I use two hands to crank the clamp. I also try to not apply downward pressure when sharpening. Please watch some of my WS videos, there may be some ideas there that you can transfer to your device, like the blade supports etc.
I recommend the Hapstone system. Imo it's the best bang for the buck and second best overall to TSProf. They have lots of great accessories for it, the quality is very high and its consistent, its a Ukrainian company and not Russian (if that matters to you), they're really friendly from my dealings with them. I got the upgraded post that has gear angle adjustment and I couldn't be happier with the system.
Thank you for these tips. QUESTION: Do you know if there is a way to adjust the tension on the swivel lock mechanism, I assume by loosening the set screws, resetting the placement of the stop lock then re- tightening the set screws? Mine is extremely tight and needs adjustment.
@@reddor5532 exactly.
Always read the comments. Especially since I’m getting one for Christmas one being the channels VIP and two the groups opinion
I bought the set of the TS prof diamond basic stones, i found them on sale for $69 on Amazon. Enormous difference. But there is a set of 10 amazon stones with aluminum backers that are $30-ish dollars and are still a huge improvement, despite losing a lot of diamond grit very early in their life.
@@jamesfeldman5152 Thanks! I will check them out!
As Chriswebb3018 and Rottidog68 made reference to - I have a different knife angle after flipping. Depending on the knife width, it can be as little a .5° or as much as 1.4°. It's infuriating when trying to develop and tame the bur. Normally I'd feel for the bur after sharpening one side, the flip and very lightly draw the stone across the edge to address the bur, then continue to develop the angle - and repeat. But with the angle changing I have to stop, adjust the knife angle, check for bur, flip the blade, adjust the knife angle, knock down the bur, flip the knife, adjust the knife angle and so on.
I've narrowed it down to the blade clamps. The rotating mechanism is less then .05° out of whack - which is not enough to worry about. The design seems to rely heavily on the consistency of the pour in the cast aluminum clamps. Any inconsistency will make one part of the clamp stiffer than the other, and it could result in discrepancies. I am tightening the clamps to 20 in-lb.
The only good thing about this - if there is a good thing - is that the error is 100% repeatable. Flipping the blade always results in one angle on the first side, and the same different angle on the flip side. It just looks weird because the bevel is different.
Is anyone else seeing this issue? Should I reach out to customer service to see if they can send out a second set of clamps?
@@gene1951 the clamps aren’t cast, they are milled out of solid billet. If you’re not using a torque driver, there’s no way to ensure that you will have a symmetrical compression on both clamps.
Regardless, if you’re getting the 1.4° repeatable variance, do this:
Leave the blade clamped!
With the knife clamped, unscrew and detach the clamps from the device.
With the knife still clamped, Flip the whole assembly on the opposite side and reassemble to the device.
Measure the angles now. You should have a lot less difference.
Final thought: many knives have been asymmetrically sharpened at the factory, not even the best makers can assure that. Recommend measuring the secondary bevels and if you get more than .010” difference between bevel widths, address this in your setup.
@@CuttingBoardRx My bad on the composition of the blade clamps. I am using a torque driver - in fact the same one your recommend - the SanLiang. I am using 20 in-lbs which is plenty. I use a light touch on sharpening. I'm retired, so I have all the time in the world.
I am not sure I understand primary and secondary bevel. In woodworking, I sharpen my chisels and plane irons with a 25° primary bevel and a 30° secondary bevel at the edge.
I've tried a dual bevel approach on my kitchen knives, and found it to be of little benefit for my use. I use a single bevel of 20° (40° inclusive), and that seems to be a good tradeoff between edge durability and cutting performance. I use primarily Global brand knives. Global uses a proprietary steel, Chromova18, which is a high carbon steel with molybdenum and vanadium mix to achieve a serviceable hardness rating of 56-58 HRC.
It is good to hear that even the knife makers end up with asymmetrical bevels- something I never looked at before getting my Gen3.
Clamping the knife and removing it from the rotator by removing the thumb screws and manually flipping it and reattaching was a great suggestion. My first test showed
@ I do Not believe anything that comes out of Russia has the potential to be any better than anything that comes out of China as far as the industrial equipment. So it doesn’t matter if TS Prof is even making parts in RF or ships them from the PRC for assembly in the RF, there’s no quality difference between TS Prof and XARILK. The finishes are nicer on TSP but it’s all cosmetic. It’s like buying Maytag vs. Whirlpool appliance: they come from the same factory, whether entirely or partially.
I am planning to do a video dispelling the need for any additional clamps, gadgets, extenders etc.
TS Prof offers free sharpeners to knife reviewers and 7% commission for anything that people buy via affiliate links. I have an offer from them that I turned down. So I would take anything these reviewers spew with a table spoon of salt. I need to have a video up on that topic.
Please inspect the coating on the clamps and the rail for some risers, bumps, burrs. That could be another cause.
Primary bevel/primary grind on a knife blade is the surface leading from the spine or the flat towards the edge or secondary bevel. Some people add a micro or tertiary bevel, but this is mostly for the very chippy steels like VG10, 440, RPM9 etc. This is akin to aggressive stropping, and it improves the apex stability. I would not recommend it unless you getting chips on the apex
Is there any variation in degree of angle from flipping from side to side? Im assuming tightening all the set screws gets it close but there could machining inconsistencies that can make the angle change. Thanks
@@chriswebb3018 We’ll find out in the next Episode! Not being coy, I film as I go!
@@CuttingBoardRx Figured you'dve notice this. 😎
Thank you. Knee es. 😊😊😊😊 knives talked about a compensator ? He did not show it and how to use it. Do you know what he meant? Thank You.
@@judgetoogood1033 do you recall the time stamp?
Looking at Amazon, I've seen a few reviews that the clamp on xarilk is not strong and quickly broke. So I'm wondering if the clamp on tsprof is compatible with this product as well. If possible, I'm thinking of buying a clamp on tsprof that's on sale separately and making a hybrid.
@@mjkim5806 So far so good, I’m up to 8-10 sharpenings on this thing and it’s holding up. I crank the torque all the way to 27 in-lbs on the clamps.
Just thought I'd let you know. I just received a v3 and it came with metal backed stones. Looks like they listened to about the flex.
@@giddyup3451 Yep, exactly! Also, some viewers reported that they removed or altered the finger guard as well. They are listening!
I used Plasti-Dip on my Tsprof clamps and I have been very pleased.
It’s not that I mind the protection for the blade, it’s that I get much flatter grind without any added effort without it!
You need to try the Venev Resing Bonded or the PDT Metal Bonded stones, expensive, but worth every penny! They'll last the rest of your life!
I veeery rarely go fixed angle but I will listen and probably learn something.
I'm enjoying your content greatly - but now we got beef!!! We were discussing the Launch 4 in CPM 154 in your comments, whereby you sent me to your video on some Vosteed or other for reference. I checked it out and left a comment - but my comment was regarding my experience with CPM 154 whereas your Vosteed is a mere CM 154. Another commenter had to kindly correct my noob error. My comment was contextually goofy and that was entirely my fault, owing to lack of awareness: hence I am projecting that fault onto you for your part in the debacle.
;D
@@dongkhamet1351 🤣 It’s 154 CM as in Crucible Metallurgy or CPM 154 as in Crucible Particle Metallurgy. As to the steel itself, if you had the same exact knife with its blade made of properly sourced and properly heat treated 440C stainless, you would not notice any quantifiable differences between it and 154 CM. In fact, the sharpening angle that you would choose would have an order of magnitude higher effect on edge retention and toughness. In fact, going to CPM 154 in this example would result in one and only observable difference: improved corrosion resistance.
See, more beef👍
@@CuttingBoardRx thank you man that is some tasty beef for me to chew on!
But wait - wouldn't powder metallurgy, as in eg CPM vs CM 154, result in smaller carbides, leading to improved edge performance across the board?
Albeit indeed I was not aware that particle metallurgy also improved corrosion resistance, but that might well stand to reason. Because of the smaller carbides that lead to improved toughness, edge retention and so on.
I might have to double check on what 🎼Dr Larrin Thomas🎶 has to say on the matter but I'm fairly certain that his assertions run contrary to yours - unless I misunderstand your sense of humour, or something...(?)
@@dongkhamet1351 CPM 154 was an early PM steel that was developed mainly for making ball bearings, where strength in compression far exceeds the need for strength in tension. In tension, it’s the most brittle of all PM steels in tension due to absence of vanadium in its composition. Dr. Thomas tables are showing toughness determined by the impact test, which is designed to predict the chipping resistance of the sample but has no predictive indication as to bending.
As to corrosion resistance, PM steels have significantly less impurities in their composition. That and smaller and more evenly distributed carbides improve the CR properties.
Bottom line, here’s an analogy: think of 154 CM or CPM as concrete and the more advanced steels as wire reinforced concrete when it comes to bending.
@@CuttingBoardRx bruh, smaller carbides lead to improved toughness just as no carbides also improves toughness. You want the carbides there at all, why? - for edge retention.
Why are you trying to baffle me with all the technical bs instead of acknowledging your initial error? By now you have made several more, including directly contradicting yourself from one comment to the next. That's (a) improved corrosion resistance, alone, to (b) yes, improved toughness but who cares.
Who cares is me because I use knives for actual knife stuff, not just for collecting and performing testing largely abstracted from real-life use. Which is cool and all! It isn't only me. Dr Larrin Thomas cares. You really might brush up on what he has to say instead of pretending you are his defender then straight up repeatedly contracting his research, here.
I suppose you are a smart, knowledgeable and dedicated fellow with good intents and an excellent channel. Being able to admit when one is in error is another order of characteristic and if you're not there yet I won't hold it against you. It might get harder to take some of your opinions seriously but your testing is first rate and fairly incontrovertible in what it reveals. Your content is well executed and often gets a laugh as well as being genuinely informative.
Thank you for your time. Don't waste any more on me today, you know what I think you ought to be doing. Reading up on powder metallurgy on a certain nerds' website.
;D
@@dongkhamet1351 I thought you honestly wanted to know my opinion. Before you comment next time, please look up the term Dunning-Kruger phenomenon. Until then, thanks for watching.
I just received one and the pivot bearing pops right out of that socket it sits in when the rod is run through it. Back it goes.
@@Wyldwulf That sucks! I just tried to take mine apart on case it is something simple but there’s nothing obvious that could be done to fix it. There is a set screw hidden in the aluminum cage the whole thing sits in, but loosening it didn’t cause the spherical bushing to fall out. Send it back! QC should have caught it!
I’m putting the contract email for their customer service in the video description. The rep goes by Jonny.
Mine did the same thing. Two TINY dots of CA glue in the receiver of the gimbal bearing (used a toothpick) and the problem is fixed.
Very awesome thanks sir
I love my Work Sharp P sharpener, but I must admit that your new toy is better for:
1. Larger kitchen knives that bend with only 1 clamp.
2. You can use larger stones
@@luisnouel4268 I hope you have watched my most viewed (40k and counting) video of the fixes I had to apply to WS Pro PA, just in case here’s the link:
Episode #1. Did Work Sharp stop $3 short of Professional level? Is it really PRECISION Adjust-able?
ruclips.net/video/-icrEyk8Mww/видео.html
This thing here is rock solid from day one, once the 8 steps are implemented. How it will hold up will be soon obvious because I HAVE KNIVES TO SHARPEN!
Do you recommend this or the TSPROF brand? I usually sharpen free hand with Shapton ceramic but these kinds of sharpeners intrigue me
@@MantisTobaggan84 I don’t have any experience with TS Prof brand (I actually turned down the collaboration offer from them).
Other than the points I made in this video, I haven’t discovered any obvious issues. Based on some comments, ordering TS Prof or maybe Hapstone plates would bring XARILK to about the same level.
It is a gimbal bearing.
Shared > copy link. Hope it helps!
Thanks!
I see you took down my comments that I posted to your channel on this video topic. If you have an issue with my comments let me know. I can go away if my comments or views on your channel are unwanted!
@@wayneanderson991 I don’t see your comments in this thread or in RUclips filtered area. I also see your comments under other videos. Please feel free to comment again. Looking forward to constructive feedback!
@@CuttingBoardRx At this point I will just wait until your next video in the series. I will offer my input at that time if appropriate. Maybe I just forgot to hit the reply button and thought I posted.
@@wayneanderson991 I’m working on it as we speak! Hope to post it tomorrow, barring unforeseen events!
I think it's pronounced Shabilque
As a sharperner by trade, it hurts my soul, you using those absolute garbage stones :P
What's the concern? The end result looks razor sharp. Are you worried about blade damage?
Razor sharp? 🙁 That’s not a compliment. Razors are dull compared to this blade…
@@mel87123 You refer to "razor sharp" i can do that with a 320 or 400 grit stone too. No im worried about the look of the sharpened blade, it will and looks like absolute trash, because of what is called grit contamination.
I intentionally used the phrase "razor sharp" just to see what response a pro would have. Enjoy😂
So, is that a "yes?" Are you worried about blade damage? Do you have a channel or website for your business? I would love to see some of your work.