Thank you, thank you, thank you. I am a knife collector, and finally, after all these years, I bought a knife sharpening system. Hapstone R2 with the upgraded vertical adjustment. I have a bunch of cheaper knives to practice on but could not find any introductions for beginners until i found this video. Best by far, i have seen. You should be sponsored by a few companies in this video, too.
I have an earlier version of the Hapstone. I’ve been sharpening for a few years now. I really appreciated the detailed instruction you provided in this video. While my knives come off sharp, I learned some basic mistakes I’ve been making. I should be able to take my sharpening skills to the next level by following your instructions. Thanks! 👍
Thank you for this tutorial. At 7:30 you recommend lining up the tip and the hilt with the ruler, but then, for the rest of the video, the position of the knife looks like it's back to where it was before you lined it up from tip to hilt, like at 7:20. I'm confused...
That knife had such a large curve I could not go tip to hilt, I had to bring it back to me a bit. I should have mentioned that, sorry. With a curve that large going tip to hilt would have made the apex of the curve several degrees less than the rest of the blade. The bevel would be much wider in the curve. I just bought the cheapest knife and did not give the blade shape a second thought until it was in the clamps. Tip to hilt really does work most of the time, just not when you are making a youtube video.
Short answer no, I will not be making a video specifically for lines in the bevel. Videos take a lot of time. If you pay extra attention after each stone change you will catch it, it only happens then or if you did not tighten something down. Repetition is the key. Line up each stone in the same place every time and at exactly the same angle, not even one tenth of a degree difference. If you are not using a digital angle finder like the one in my video you will soon be a master at spotting lines because it will happen repeatedly.
Very informative. One of the best I’ve seen. I will say however, the sharpening community itself is very opinionated and I’m a newish sharpener myself but I got some bad criticism on a video using water on my stones(in general wetting them). What is your reasoning for using water? I know why I do it but I’d like to know your opinion.
I travel for work and constantly pack up my system, I do not want a bottle of oil leaking all over everything. I used oil with my Lansky and cleaning the stones was tedious, I don't miss using it. Thanks for watching
Hey I have a few questions if you wouldn’t mind: 1: When I’m done with my final 1000 grit stone should I remove the burr with a pencil prior to stropping or will the stropping alone be enough to remove it as 1000 grit is so fine? 2: You say “As a newbie you will have trouble removing the burr. As you gain experience you will be able to remove the burr without using a pencil”. When I gain experience how will I be removing the burr without a pencil? I’m assuming that I’ll get so good at weakening the burr that it will be weak enough that removing it with a pencil is pointless? 3: Ok so sharpen side 1 and feel for burr on side 2. Then sharpen side 2 enough [hopefully about the same] to feel a burr on side 1. Do I remove the burr with a pencil at this point or do I only use the pencil after progressively switching back and forth using less and less strokes/pressure/single light stropping strokes? In your vid you waited until you were completely done with the first 80 grit stone before using the pencil. But when using the 150 grit stone you pencil de-burred after creating the initial burrs on both sides, not after finishing by flipping using progressively less strokes/pressure/single stropping strokes.
1. When you finish using your final stone it is fine to use the pencil before stropping, I did it this way when starting out. 2. The way you will be removing the burr without a pencil will be a combination of stropping strokes with your final stone, all the way down to "onesies", and by using a strop. With experience you will be able to feel and see that the burr is gone while it is still in the clamps. Here is a tip for recognizing the burr. When you start with a new stone use your fingernail to check for the bur. After you are certain you have a burr all the way down the bevel, and you then flip the knife, look before using the stone. You will be able to see "shiny' spots along your bevel, these are each place your fingernail had caught the burr on the opposite side. As you progress through your stones continue to do this. You will slowly learn to recognize the burr, even when it is at 1,000 or 1,200 grit. 3.It is difficult to keep things linear in a video. The only time you need to use the pencil to remove the burr is when you have completely finished with a stone. So use the pencil only once with each stone.
F rating on venev stones is totally different than the standard grit rating. The f400 is around 1000 grit in ANSI. Great video this will be a big help for beginners.
Yes, I like on the Venev stones that they list the micron range too. Like, the 50/40 on the F240 is just that. It's much easier relate to everything in microns since there seems to be so many variations in grit ratings.
What proof you have that the harbor freight digital angle finder is crap? Are you talking out of the side of your neck like many of the stuff you saying in this video!!
If I could arouse the emotions you have displayed here, from every viewer, I would have millions of views! I am proud to know my video had such a powerful effect on you. Thanks for watching angry Harbor Freight guy, you definitely left the most passionate comment so far.
I’m just starting out and this is what I need to understand everything involved.. thanks so much.. very comprehensive and well explained..
Excellent tutorial. I used it to sharpen my first knife and got excellent results on my Hapstone Ultra, thanks so much.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I am a knife collector, and finally, after all these years, I bought a knife sharpening system. Hapstone R2 with the upgraded vertical adjustment. I have a bunch of cheaper knives to practice on but could not find any introductions for beginners until i found this video. Best by far, i have seen. You should be sponsored by a few companies in this video, too.
I have an earlier version of the Hapstone. I’ve been sharpening for a few years now. I really appreciated the detailed instruction you provided in this video. While my knives come off sharp, I learned some basic mistakes I’ve been making. I should be able to take my sharpening skills to the next level by following your instructions. Thanks! 👍
Perfectly done! Just what I was looking for and needed. Thank you for your time.
Thank you, please continue. 😊😊😊
Love to see you do some freehand sharpening. You give great detailed instructions and it’s greatly appreciated. Thank you.
neeves knives is the master god of free handed sharpening if you need to learn.
Friend, it's nice to see a video of yours again, I hope you feel well! and thanks for your recomendations!
Good to hear from you as well.
Great video. Most detailed that I have seen.
Many thanks for your instruction video. This will be my goto video in the future. Greetings from Sweden and from BoH
Perfect tutorial, all necessary things really good explained 👍🍻
THX for upload.
Cheers from 🇦🇹
Exceptional detail. Thank you!
Great video Knifey! I noticed the union bug on your spray bottle. Journeyman wireman here out of 26. Thanks for taking the time to make this.
I'm out of the Dirty 130, thanks for watching brother.
Thanks a lot for the video. I'm surprised it didn't get enough exposure , considering the quality info shared :(
Good luck!
Thank you for this tutorial. At 7:30 you recommend lining up the tip and the hilt with the ruler, but then, for the rest of the video, the position of the knife looks like it's back to where it was before you lined it up from tip to hilt, like at 7:20. I'm confused...
That knife had such a large curve I could not go tip to hilt, I had to bring it back to me a bit. I should have mentioned that, sorry. With a curve that large going tip to hilt would have made the apex of the curve several degrees less than the rest of the blade. The bevel would be much wider in the curve.
I just bought the cheapest knife and did not give the blade shape a second thought until it was in the clamps. Tip to hilt really does work most of the time, just not when you are making a youtube video.
Thanks Knifey! I'm still figuring my way around freehanding but when I step up... I will never have a dull blade again...
can you do a separate video on the line in the Bevel tip. I couldn't see the line in the Bevel, I'm not sure what to check for
Short answer no, I will not be making a video specifically for lines in the bevel. Videos take a lot of time.
If you pay extra attention after each stone change you will catch it, it only happens then or if you did not tighten something down. Repetition is the key. Line up each stone in the same place every time and at exactly the same angle, not even one tenth of a degree difference. If you are not using a digital angle finder like the one in my video you will soon be a master at spotting lines because it will happen repeatedly.
@@knifeymcknifeface7166 Thank you, I'm just getting into my knife sharpening journey. so I'm trying to get as much information as possible
Very informative. One of the best I’ve seen. I will say however, the sharpening community itself is very opinionated and I’m a newish sharpener myself but I got some bad criticism on a video using water on my stones(in general wetting them). What is your reasoning for using water? I know why I do it but I’d like to know your opinion.
I travel for work and constantly pack up my system, I do not want a bottle of oil leaking all over everything. I used oil with my Lansky and cleaning the stones was tedious, I don't miss using it.
Thanks for watching
Hey I have a few questions if you wouldn’t mind: 1: When I’m done with my final 1000 grit stone should I remove the burr with a pencil prior to stropping or will the stropping alone be enough to remove it as 1000 grit is so fine? 2: You say “As a newbie you will have trouble removing the burr. As you gain experience you will be able to remove the burr without using a pencil”. When I gain experience how will I be removing the burr without a pencil? I’m assuming that I’ll get so good at weakening the burr that it will be weak enough that removing it with a pencil is pointless? 3: Ok so sharpen side 1 and feel for burr on side 2. Then sharpen side 2 enough [hopefully about the same] to feel a burr on side 1. Do I remove the burr with a pencil at this point or do I only use the pencil after progressively switching back and forth using less and less strokes/pressure/single light stropping strokes? In your vid you waited until you were completely done with the first 80 grit stone before using the pencil. But when using the 150 grit stone you pencil de-burred after creating the initial burrs on both sides, not after finishing by flipping using progressively less strokes/pressure/single stropping strokes.
1. When you finish using your final stone it is fine to use the pencil before stropping, I did it this way when starting out.
2. The way you will be removing the burr without a pencil will be a combination of stropping strokes with your final stone, all the way down to "onesies", and by using a strop. With experience you will be able to feel and see that the burr is gone while it is still in the clamps.
Here is a tip for recognizing the burr. When you start with a new stone use your fingernail to check for the bur. After you are certain you have a burr all the way down the bevel, and you then flip the knife, look before using the stone. You will be able to see "shiny' spots along your bevel, these are each place your fingernail had caught the burr on the opposite side. As you progress through your stones continue to do this. You will slowly learn to recognize the burr, even when it is at 1,000 or 1,200 grit.
3.It is difficult to keep things linear in a video. The only time you need to use the pencil to remove the burr is when you have completely finished with a stone. So use the pencil only once with each stone.
F rating on venev stones is totally different than the standard grit rating. The f400 is around 1000 grit in ANSI. Great video this will be a big help for beginners.
Yes, I like on the Venev stones that they list the micron range too. Like, the 50/40 on the F240 is just that. It's much easier relate to everything in microns since there seems to be so many variations in grit ratings.
What proof you have that the harbor freight digital angle finder is crap? Are you talking out of the side of your neck like many of the stuff you saying in this video!!
Are u mad that u bought 1 of these trash tools and your trying to justify it?
If I could arouse the emotions you have displayed here, from every viewer, I would have millions of views! I am proud to know my video had such a powerful effect on you. Thanks for watching angry Harbor Freight guy, you definitely left the most passionate comment so far.
@knifeymcknifeface7166 no emotions spent.. just dropping the truth
@@yeetee2781 What trash tools trash?
It's your story bro, tell it how you wanna tell it.