Here are the sharpness numbers from the end of this video as well as the follow-up where they used a strop. Lower is better. #1 (Push): 176 after stones, 104 after strop #2 (Pull): 374 after stones, 181 after strop #3 (Sawing): 242 after stones, 191 after strop #4 (Sweep): 298 after stones, 159 after strop
I've used a sweep technique for may years, so those results didn't surprise me. All 4 in the "scary sharp" catagory after stropping, just shows one has to go through all the steps to get a knife truly sharp.
Old School Wisdom Strikes Again! My grandpa taught me to sharpen a knife when I was very young. He said, you always sharpen like the knife cuts. He showed me the technique yall are calling a Push when I was a kid. For the last 40 years, I've sharpened my knives that way and have always been happy with the edge I got. Thank you young men. It was fun to watch modern science prove him right, some 100+ years after he sharpened his first knife. He was a WWII vet, and the most intelligent man I've ever known.
My grandfather taught me to sharpen the ax, hand saws, knives and chisels with a push strokes into the blades. I’ve always wondered about other motions and if one was better or worse. Thank you for the video and the up-close looks at these.
23 mins of knife sharpening with equipment I already own...how lucky did I get in the you tube algorithm lottery lol. Great vids guys you taught me a lot. Ps I have always been the saw or sweep guy. Saw to take off metal quick and sweep to finish it😎
I’m a sawing guy and I am absolutely more than happy with the results I get in such a short amount of time. I will be a die hard worksharp fan for life. The highest quality and most available to anyone products on the market. Keep up the amazing work worksharp.
Got this kit a month ago. Did kitchen knives including paring knives. Love it. Wife happy. Thanks to the person who provided the summary of sharpness results. You need to to learn from him. Really pay attention. I’ll try push next time.
Yes, doing only one leads to the end result (conclusion): "No test!" You will have to do enough tests per blade so you will be able to determine what the gross average is and what the out-lier-values are.
Your videos are very useful, but this series (Push vs Pull) is the has the greatest utility. By altering my approach to using saw method for reprofiling, then switching to push method for sharpening and finally stropping my sharpness increased substantially (hairs pop off my arm). Your approach using the microscope and BESS tester takes the guesswork out of “which is sharpest” and most importantly “Why”. Well done gentlemen!
WOW guys!!! Amazing, well done, this is easily one of the most complete and objective, no BS, and scientific knife sharpening videos I’ve seen. Even though I no longer use sharpening systems but prefer free hand whetstones, this has confirmed some things I’ve suspected for some time. In knifemaking, when hand sanding a blade, we always say one must never move to the next highest grit until all the previous grit size scratches have been removed. In the microscope view you can clearly still see some of the previous grits scratches between the higher grit finish on each step and even some scratches 2 step back. This would take longer to achieve “perfection” with no scratches of the previous grit sizes, but virtually impossible without a microscopic camera and constant monitoring, one wouldn’t be able to see it with the naked eye and probably won’t see a massive improvement in performance. Thanks, great video!
My takeaway is that you should finish every grit each side without unclamping. You need to redo this with 4 sharpeners so you don't have to ever unclamp a knife before finishing the side. The course grit will remove enough material to have full contact with the sharpened surface then finer grits will clean up the edge but for best results you need to maintain very exact contact through every grit.
Definitely, we underestimated the impact that re-clamping would have. We ended up with sharp knives, but maintaining angle and clamp position is key to consistency.
well b4 starting 1 should take care and know witch type of bladed metal there useing as diff metals have diff. outputs also it depends on the methed chu use too sharpen a blade for exsample i use a 400 & 600 grit dimond stone + im used ta freehand sharpening soo my blades norm. get done quick and easy but tats mainly becuz i use a dimond stone but for sharpness theres wike a 4 ta 6 step process but the main 3 things too know are 1st the type of metal chur blades made of 2nd the methed 1 uses and 3rd it depends on exsactly HOW sharp chu want a blade to be 😏 my blades are used for hunting soo i keep em sharp enough too just rend and clean slice threw flesh 😄 oh b4 i forget make sure to sharpen a blade even after its used even once as even simple paper cut tests can dull a blade vry quickly :/
This video is so flawed. Maybe this way works good but maybe it was the clamp…Take this video down and repost it later when you do it correctly. I love my WorkSharp and really wanted to improve my technique. This video did nothing other than waste my time
@@davidkeefe9468 what? Each time the absolute micro bevel was affected and ground. So the reclamping maybe caused a 2nd bevel but the final bevel was sharpens with each method to the ground.
@@Lg_tuber I use mirror edges on my leather cutting blades and nothing else. I have guys who buy my hunting knives they are going to use who would have a fit if I put a buffed edge on it. Most people seldom really need to use their edc knives and probably slicing sheets of paper isn't one of them except to open packages or envelopes I seldom use mine. My kitchen knives on the other hand get used, a nice quick stropped 800 grit edge does any job you need including popping hair off your arm. That's just for show, I can shave arm hair with 600 grit stropped lightly. I used to have a summer job just sharpening knives and scalpels, some by hand in the 70s. Been sharpening ever since.
I was taught decades ago to sharpen a knife with the push method. It always made me wonder how good sawing is since that’s pretty much how every RUclipsr I’ve watched does it, but old dog new tricks kept me from learning a whole new method. I guess it’s for the best I didn’t pick up new habits lol.
The "sweep", when done on a water stone with a western style kitchen knife, is commonly referred to as the "Kramer" method (as in Bob Kramer) or aka the "Crescent" method, and can be highly effective when executed correctly. The "Push" method and the "Saw" method are both (yet neither at the same time) a popular Japanese sharpening method referred to as the "Push/Pull" method. When pushing (edge trailing), pressure is applied a few millimeters above the contacting edge with two fingers from the free hand (whichever hand isn't gripping the knife). On the pull stroke (edge leading), the pressure applied by the fingers is released from the edge while remaining in contact with the blade, and without lifting the edge away from the sharpening surface. Pushing with pressure raises the burr, pulling without pressure helps to roll the burr and sheer it off without forcing abrasive grit into the apex which, as you saw during your experiment, will create jagged serrations or saw toothed edge. On the opposite side of this, if pulling only, eventually a "foil" edge will occur (if stropped in the opposite direction at a sharper angle than the bevel was pulled prior to the foil edge developing, a decently sharp edge can be achieved) requiring the edge to be manually blunted or "bricked" and the sharpening process started from the beginning. RUclipsrs, "An Engineer's Perspective" & "Burrfection" both have videos detailing the cause and effect of multiple sharpening methods, issues, and solutions. GL. PS. The "transition from bevel to primary grind" is called the "shoulder". Hopefully that makes your life a little easier! lol
I'd like to see what they look like after they have been stroped with the green compound. That would seem to give the edge the best result for removing the burrs.
On my system, which I progress through at least 6 stones, I use the saw technique for profiling and the next lowest grit. I then use the sweeping technique for the rest all the way up to ceramics. I find you get a mirror edge far faster and nicer, with the sweep on your highest grits.
I use a combination of techniques here, push and sweep to the tip then pull and sweep away from the tip thru all grits and it really seems to give a nice polished edge even before I strop.
The results and video of the knife motion make me think the push works best with the clamp. The clamp is very stable but the saw action seems to move the blade the most. I will probably push to finish knives now. The saw action could still be used to reprofile before switching to push only. Love this sharpener and haven't had a bad result yet.
After a burr has developed and you flip the knife, I think it is important to do an initial pull stroke before "sawing". In my experience this prevents the burr from folding over or breaking off prematurely.
I really like the sawing motion for reprofiling/establishing an edge since it's a heck of a lot faster. I also use lapping films down to .5 micron though, and give 'em a few on a leather strop. My BESS tests usually come out to 110-150. Good to see that it puts a bit of tooth to the edge. It really helps when going through fibrous stuff like cardboard and rope.
Dead on Jerry! Here in Texas, I do a lot of work on the property. No Girley boy twine in the mix. Hell, I don't ever know what twine is unless it's a northern work for string, lol. I have to cut limbs out of fences, dress game, cut rope, leather, cutting pull ties, you name it. A smooth ultra edge with no teeth is useless. It may push cut and show better on this type of tester that shows a push cut only, but such an edge is useless here for anything other than shaving in the morning. That is reserved for straight razors. ;
Thank you so much for all this work ! I think the spoiler in this is the re clamping. So easy to be off 1-2 degrees. Yes clearly ending with stroping will help greatly to insure no wire edge left on the blades.
Edge leading, spine to edge scratch pattern. Pull strokes can refine maxamet. X strokes regrind and reduce burr. If you’re not contacting the edge, the pattern doesn’t matter. Sweeping strokes maximize draw cutting, but make push cutting a nightmare. This is incredibly nuanced gentlemen. The best overall for me is perpendicular to the edge scratches. 12 degree back bevel, 17-20 degree microbevel.
Always finish by stroking into the blade will take most of the burr off, but pulling leaves more burr. Try it on a grinder, away leaves a huge burr, but into it hardly leaves a burr at all. I always finish with longer sweeping strokes into the edge. I've been doing this by hand for 50 years, I've got it perfected pretty well. Because I'm doing it by hand it leaves a slightly convex edge. Edit; btw scalpels are sharpened to 600-800 grit.
Excellent! I'm 77 y o and a long time sharpener. I learned several things viewing your approach in this video. Much obliged! I would really like to see some results following stropping when you get to that stage.
I just bought that system with the help of watching your videos. I was able to get a knife extremely sharp the first day. I’m a total beginner, and it was super easy to use.
I will now used the sawing technique on the profiling stage, the pulling technique on the sharpening stage, and pushing technique on the final stages. Ty
Enjoyed this. Very informative. Three generations of pushing, to sharpen. I bought this sharpener 3 weeks ago and like it a lot. Very stable. I use the sweeping method to keep from eating too much material and to keep the edge centered. For me it is a game changer from a stone. I have been told a burr has to be made to sharpen a blade. I am still foggy on what a burr looks like. I have sharpened, from pocket knives to camping knives, all have a great edge. I will use the push method next round of sharpening. Thanks for the video. Keep them coming.
Happy to help! A burr is hard to see with the naked eye which is why we recommend feeling for it. For a great visual representation, check out @outdoors55. His camera setup is next level when it comes to sharpening up close.
This has always been the $65,000 question since aided sharpening systems have evolved and I was glued to the video from start to finish. It certainly answered a few of the majors, but it also certainly raised a few more minors, most of which have been addressed in some of the comments here. It would’ve been very interesting to see if stropping would’ve made a big difference right at the end to satisfy most of the those outstanding questions, because even you guys wondered that! The fact that clamping stays firmly clamped from start to finish and on this system only rotates is a wonderful facet of this unique system but somehow don’t feel that carrying on grits without turning would make such a big a difference for me personally to note and I might get lost in the process, plus I like to personally progress both sides to the end. Very, very interesting indeed though and think that most folk gravitating to this particular video have asked the same question for years and will come out of this leaning one way or the other but wondering about a strop finish. However, I personally came out of this once again to my own mind, deciding I will continue the push and always strop at the end. I also now take photographs of the clamped blade so that I can replicate to the best of my ability the same exact clamping as the last time on a particular knife. I have so many knives, plus kitchen knives, that I have to do that because I don’t remember exactly where I clamped the blade on each. Thank you for this and now it’s back to what is the secret to the universe?
With most my knives I mark with a sharpie marker where I set the blade in the clamp and then with a dremmel tool cut 2 tiny marks on the corner of the blade so next time I have readymade reference points. Obviously if you love the finish of your blade don't do that
I take pictures too. I find it very helpful for saving time doing touch-ups. I also am sure to include the sharpening angle it's set to in the picture to get the most exact set-up.
Not for nothing, but maybe you were referencing the “$64,000 Question”, a old timey game show where contestants were placed in a soundproof booth. Google $64,000 Question for more.
Cut into the stone to sharpen pull away to finish/polish. First pass on the second side always pull to realign the burr then cut into the stone until the burr is gone. And pressure is the key to getting a sharp edge. Less pressure is better (for finishing) the weight of the blade is all that's needed.
After watching this and the follow up video I decided to give the push method a go. I only used the saw method before. Without a doubt I noticed a massive difference with the push method. It took less time for a good edge and it was razor sharp.
When you use the push method, how far do you move the stone over after a swipe? For example, after your first push, does your second stroke overlap the first?
Great video! I use saw to profile get rolls and chips. I push is a sweeping motion after the bevel is established. Last two stones are ceramic and I straight push. Then strop on white paste then straight leather. I learned some interesting things watching your video. I use a very similar guided system on my premium steel knives. Free hand my bigger fixed blades. Thanks for the interesting content.
I found that using my WS PA gives a much more regular edge that lasts longer. Sharpening by hand gave me would give a razor sharp knife, but the bevel would be rounded and go dull quicker. Love the system. Thanks guys for the video. In the end everyone will take what they want, adapt it and use it according to their. needs!
I'm right-handed, and I find I push left and pull right. Every 180° flip is done the same way. Thanks, y'all, for the information on my new toy. The Work Sharp Elite is a sharp product. Bladie Mae is pleased, too.🎶🇨🇱
Super concise comparrisons. I'm new to this "skill" and that being said, I was guessing the "sweep" would be the motion I'd prefer. Your pics made that clear.
When you are sharpening a larger blade, like a kitchen knife, won't the angle change as your stone moves away from perpendicular to the machine? When i put my kitchen knife in, and put the angle measuring tool on it and select 15 degrees, if i then put the stone all the way out to the tip, the angle on the measuring tool reads 13 degrees.
I'm proud to say that I just sharpend my M390 steel blade from lionsteel TRE in the Green G-10 and I just put the best edge I've ever put on a knife I've owned. In my life.
I've been using the sawing motion on my daily carry ad 15 it comes out almost mirror finished and hair popping sharp . You guys knocked it out of the park with the precision adjust. Hands down the best sharping system on the market at it's price point and it punches much higher and it on par with some much more pricey systems
The blade bounce is very noticeable in the videos. Early in every stroke the stone will work the point and as the stroke continues the angle flattens out producing a slightly convex bevel. Would this be significant, beneficial or detrimental? I don’t know.
I use my hand/ fingers (normally placed on the base) to cradle under the blade with my wrist resting on the base when I sharpen. You can stabilize the knife better this way. I bought some adhesive backed 220 grit sandpaper and attach it to the ceramic side for use with damaged edges with steel like S35VN. I can get sharp results very quickly like this. For the money, I usually always strop after sharpening. I cannot recommend this enough. One of my buddies bought this after I told him about it and he is very happy with it. Cheers!
Great Video. Interesting to see blade edges through a microscope. Been sharpening knives for over 65 years and have tried nearly every system out there except the real expensive ones. Lansky is my favorite economic sharpener but I prefer the freehand method. If I can get my knives sharp enough to shave and even sometimes to split a hair; well that’s sharp enough for me. Also sometimes I don’t want a paper thin edge as it dulls too quickly on some materials. Freehand is a skill that takes some practice but once you master it freehand is faster and takes less stones. I switched to diamond and ceramic, and leather strop and never looked back.
I thank you for this test it answered a lot of questions. I honestly believe that tyhe sweep method will deliver the "SHARPEST" edge, which is what we want. Thanks again.
well chyea wat are chu exspecting 😄 its vry rare to have a blade be even duller then wat it started as b4 sharpening but i mean it dose happen tho from time ta time :/ the best method for such a thing would be too regrind the edge useing a belt sander but then again iv noticed tat if chu do it tat way then 1 would norm. never need too use a stone altho a strop and some polish after always dose the trick 😄
oh keep in mind tat there are a lagit shiton of ways too sharpen a blade besides just useing stones or grind wheels hell my step dad belive it or not he teached meh how to sharpen useing nothing but the pantlegs of my jeans 😄
Finally, a KME guy. Agreed. Better stones available, mostly METAL in the construction of the device, a better rig, yeah more money, but buy cheap, you buy TWICE.
After watching closely it amazes me how the angle changes when you apply pressure to the knife with each stroke. I guess a very sturdy stand would change that
Knife 2 got a wire burr from the pull method where the burr just goes back and forth. This happens when sharpening on sandpaper pulling the knife back so you don’t cut the paper. You have to lightly draw the blade across something to knock the burr off a few times then check you edge and go from there. Otherwise you’ll be chasing the burr back and forth.
Fantastic video. I learned a lot and love my Worksharp Precision Adjust!!!! My question is, which method wears down your stones quicker? I want sharp knives but not at the cost of burning through my stones.
The sawing motion would wear the stones fastest. Fortunately you can replace them individually for about $8 on our website and they should last a long time before needing replacement.
The BESS test measures sharpness for push cuts but which knife is the best slicer? I would think a toothy edge makes for good slicing and I've started putting that on all my working knives.
Great video, I personally have always used the push method because that's how I learned especially when using a file but never put the different methods to the test,, thanks again ........
I just received my Precision Elite with upgrade kit yesterday. I started with the 220 and went through all the grits up to the strop. I must say I am highly impressed. Firstly this is an awesome device. My first two knives, a CamillusTitanium 440 and a Boker Magnum 420, I can now shave my hair off. I was as giddy as a school boy. I used the sawing method for each knife. I am extremely please with the Precision Elite and the results. I have never been able to get such a sharp edge on any knife I have owned. So the sawing method worked for me in the jig better than the downward stroke with any of the stones I have. Thanks for a great product.
I have changed from push to pull after purchasing and using high end Japanese cutlery. I'm my attempt to keep it sharp I studied their techniques. They are masters of the blade.
I believe different steels will respond with very different results in method. Especially true with High V steels such as S110V. I agree about stropping altering the outcome on the BESS Tester. I was just dieing to see you guys strop these knives and restesting. Well done.
2:18 I see the knife flexing as he applies downward pressure to the blade with the sharpening stone. Does this not reduce the effective sharpening angle by a few degrees? Should less pressure be used perhaps?
I use the same sharpener and I use the saw method when using the roughest stone. The finest grit stone that I end up with is done in a push method followed by the strop. Seems to work well.
Nicely done guys! I discussed this in my 2-year old, very amateur, RUclips video, using several of my angle-controlled sharpening systems, including my PRECISION ADJUST KNIFE SHARPENER - ELITE™ SUBQUENTLY, life got really busy, and I didn't post my followup. I found was using the "sawing" motion was OK with profiling and repair, followed by using the push method, finishing with "Pull Motion" stropping, consistently produced the sharpest edges with some noticeable decrease in time required. Try it and see if it works for you. Lastly, I've experimented with the "Swirl Pattern" on my larger sharpening system, using 6" stones. Its results seem comparable with the push method be yields a mirror finish without the cutting streaks, pitting, etc. I demo the Swirl Mode on my video. Stay Sharp. BTW, these days I'm a Ken Onion System fan for profiling and repair, followed by the PROFESSIONAL PRECISION ADJUST™KNIFE SHARPENER for the final edge. Your milage is guaranteed to vary.
I have been a Lansky user for many years, and I have just switched over to Work Sharp Tools. I was checking out a couple of your videos before I started to use your system. I have always used a push stroke with the Lansky and was glad that the saw method you originally showed was not the only option, and the push stroke seems to be the most effective.
I also was a Lansky user and recently bought the Work Sharp System. I am use to the push technique and before I start, wanted to research user results.
Just used the Precision elite and it is really extraordinary. I am not a great stone user, or other sharpening methods that are out there. But your system is made for me. Real results right out of the box with some instruction. I found the back/forth method is best for me - it gets the job done fast and with no deficit. Do you make or plan to make parts or another version for larger - especially thicker knifes? Outstanding, really. Gregory
It looks like the knife mount bends down when you apply some force, does the whole thing bend so that the angle stays the same or just the clamp? Then the angle would change
Nice work guys! I tend to buy high end steels and find that dome have larger carbides than others. These carbides can be pulled out in a pull stroke leaving gaps in the edge. So I always push stroke with one exception… when reprofiling a hard blade I will saw stroke to save time when starting out with my coarsest stone. (I use diamond stones in the first three passes, then ceramic then sapphire) Once I’ve laid in the new profile with that coarse stone I push stroke the remainder. Been doing this with my original Lansky clamp for some 25 years. Love the “zip lock” effect a scalpel sharp knife offers!
I think a combo of styles will serve one well. I was sharpening a broadhead while watching this. I had a ceramic hone on and I switched from "sawing" to"pushing" to "pulling with a sweep" and WOW!
16:00, I don't think it's a clamping problem, I think the sawing motion is clogging up the ceramic faster where it's no longer polishing just rubbing metal on metal
Question. When doing the push method, does it still create a burr on the slicing edge? Or will the burr instead form where the upper part of the slicey edge meets the apex of the blade face? ...please advise 🤔
When using mine I use the sawing at lower grits on edges that need work or reprofiling and need to move metal quick. Once I get to my higher grit rod (the one that’s 600, 800 and ceramic) I switch over to the push only. Then I always finish on my strop.
I figured push would be best. My thoughts were that it would be like woodworking , where you get cleaner cuts when theres material backimg up the edge you’re cutting. When theres nothing behind a board (like a sacrificial piece, or the wood of your fence/sled, you get blowout. When your sharpening with the push method, the metal of the knife is supporting the metal thats being cut (sharpened)… hope that makes sense… but thats my hypothesis
What make/model USB scope is used here ? In my experience, edge leading (with stones) will provide least amount of bur and best end result. With lower grits, plateau sharpening will reduce edge damage during sharpening.
Excellent video comparison here, you could measure the push pull + sweep forward and sweep back as thats how a chef would usually sharpen depending on whether they are pushing or pulling through food, But, it's still easy to see a pushing sweep is going to give the cleanest results as long as you have a good sweep angle consistency, elsewise, just push and you're golden mostly.
What about a pushing sweep? That's how I use the field sharpener and it seems to work. I'm looking into a precision sharpener to use on my higher end knives than the ken edition.
Has the issue of flex as you go across the blade been resolved? What I am calling the flex: as you press stone to blade the clamp slightly moves downward toward the table. This ultimately changes the angle, and might be the issues seen in the micro cam.
There is still some flex, working with plastic, its almost unavoidable, but keeps he cost down and really is not much of an issue on average sized pocket knives if you apply proper pressure when sharpening.
I use back and forth to create the edge. Only push to clean the burr and most times leave it like that. Sometimes after I clean the burr I use a few pull passes for a more aggressive edge. Only pull leaves too much burr.
So, should there be any different technique for expensive chef kitchen knives, especially Santoku knives?? And I currently use a stone with two sides, one coarse and the other smooth. Is that not good for expensive kitchen knives?
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Here are the sharpness numbers from the end of this video as well as the follow-up where they used a strop. Lower is better.
#1 (Push): 176 after stones, 104 after strop
#2 (Pull): 374 after stones, 181 after strop
#3 (Sawing): 242 after stones, 191 after strop
#4 (Sweep): 298 after stones, 159 after strop
All under 200, but that #1 knife pushed/stropped at 104 is beyond sharp! wow!
I've used a sweep technique for may years, so those results didn't surprise me.
All 4 in the "scary sharp" catagory after stropping, just shows one has to go through all the steps to get a knife truly sharp.
Not all heroes wear capes!
You are awesome Mr. Younkins, thank you - couldn't find the short lol.
Very helpful. Thanks for the effort. Left a message saying they should have done this. New to the system, this was well done.
Would you say use #1 for general maintenance and #3 for reprofiling and go back to #1 after reprofiling and just never use #2
Old School Wisdom Strikes Again!
My grandpa taught me to sharpen a knife when I was very young. He said, you always sharpen like the knife cuts. He showed me the technique yall are calling a Push when I was a kid. For the last 40 years, I've sharpened my knives that way and have always been happy with the edge I got.
Thank you young men. It was fun to watch modern science prove him right, some 100+ years after he sharpened his first knife.
He was a WWII vet, and the most intelligent man I've ever known.
Bleib bei Grossvaters Rat. Was da gezeigt wird ist super ungenau.😊
My grandfather taught me to sharpen the ax, hand saws, knives and chisels with a push strokes into the blades.
I’ve always wondered about other motions and if one was better or worse. Thank you for the video and the up-close looks at these.
YES! Looking at edges under a MICROSCOPE and using the sharpness tester is the way to demonstrate differences in sharpening technique. Thank you.
23 mins of knife sharpening with equipment I already own...how lucky did I get in the you tube algorithm lottery lol.
Great vids guys you taught me a lot. Ps I have always been the saw or sweep guy. Saw to take off metal quick and sweep to finish it😎
as a guy who loved to watch my grandpa sharpening knives to nowadays sharpening my own knives, I've been dying to know these answers, I love you guys
I’m a sawing guy and I am absolutely more than happy with the results I get in such a short amount of time. I will be a die hard worksharp fan for life. The highest quality and most available to anyone products on the market. Keep up the amazing work worksharp.
Thank you for the support!
I think the instructions say to do the sawing method. Good to know other methods work well too
Every time I try using the saw g method, it just puts waves into the edge and is horrible. Can’t sharpen a knife with this to save my life lol
Got this kit a month ago. Did kitchen knives including paring knives. Love it. Wife happy. Thanks to the person who provided the summary of sharpness results. You need to to learn from him. Really pay attention. I’ll try push next time.
For the final cutting test, I'd do it 5 times on each knife at different points on the blades then average the results.
Seriously. You never take a single measurement when doing any comparison test. There are averages for a reason.
this is the most logical comment on here and seriously would've made comparisons better.
Yes, doing only one leads to the end result (conclusion): "No test!"
You will have to do enough tests per blade so you will be able to determine what the gross average is and what the out-lier-values are.
I also think that they cut the wire too fast
Your videos are very useful, but this series (Push vs Pull) is the has the greatest utility. By altering my approach to using saw method for reprofiling, then switching to push method for sharpening and finally stropping my sharpness increased substantially (hairs pop off my arm). Your approach using the microscope and BESS tester takes the guesswork out of “which is sharpest” and most importantly “Why”. Well done gentlemen!
Glad it was helpful! We loved doing it and we have more ideas cooking. Should be a fun way to look at sharpening under the microscope.
@@WorkSharpOutdoor👍
WOW guys!!! Amazing, well done, this is easily one of the most complete and objective, no BS, and scientific knife sharpening videos I’ve seen. Even though I no longer use sharpening systems but prefer free hand whetstones, this has confirmed some things I’ve suspected for some time. In knifemaking, when hand sanding a blade, we always say one must never move to the next highest grit until all the previous grit size scratches have been removed. In the microscope view you can clearly still see some of the previous grits scratches between the higher grit finish on each step and even some scratches 2 step back. This would take longer to achieve “perfection” with no scratches of the previous grit sizes, but virtually impossible without a microscopic camera and constant monitoring, one wouldn’t be able to see it with the naked eye and probably won’t see a massive improvement in performance. Thanks, great video!
My takeaway is that you should finish every grit each side without unclamping. You need to redo this with 4 sharpeners so you don't have to ever unclamp a knife before finishing the side. The course grit will remove enough material to have full contact with the sharpened surface then finer grits will clean up the edge but for best results you need to maintain very exact contact through every grit.
Definitely, we underestimated the impact that re-clamping would have. We ended up with sharp knives, but maintaining angle and clamp position is key to consistency.
well b4 starting 1 should take care and know witch type of bladed metal there useing as diff metals have diff. outputs also it depends on the methed chu use too sharpen a blade for exsample i use a 400 & 600 grit dimond stone + im used ta freehand sharpening soo my blades norm. get done quick and easy but tats mainly becuz i use a dimond stone but for sharpness theres wike a 4 ta 6 step process but the main 3 things too know are 1st the type of metal chur blades made of 2nd the methed 1 uses and 3rd it depends on exsactly HOW sharp chu want a blade to be 😏 my blades are used for hunting soo i keep em sharp enough too just rend and clean slice threw flesh 😄 oh b4 i forget make sure to sharpen a blade even after its used even once as even simple paper cut tests can dull a blade vry quickly :/
This video is so flawed. Maybe this way works good but maybe it was the clamp…Take this video down and repost it later when you do it correctly. I love my WorkSharp and really wanted to improve my technique. This video did nothing other than waste my time
@@davidkeefe9468 what? Each time the absolute micro bevel was affected and ground. So the reclamping maybe caused a 2nd bevel but the final bevel was sharpens with each method to the ground.
@@davidkeefe9468 some comments can cause that these experimental videos will not be posted in the future.
We need more grits. In between 320 and 600 and between 600 and ceramic. Blotchy edges
Did you know scalpels and butchers only use 600-800 grit stones?
@@MountainFisher but I’m sure the don’t want to get mirror finished edges. Functionality or aesthetics. You can have both having more options
@@Lg_tuber I use mirror edges on my leather cutting blades and nothing else. I have guys who buy my hunting knives they are going to use who would have a fit if I put a buffed edge on it. Most people seldom really need to use their edc knives and probably slicing sheets of paper isn't one of them except to open packages or envelopes I seldom use mine.
My kitchen knives on the other hand get used, a nice quick stropped 800 grit edge does any job you need including popping hair off your arm. That's just for show, I can shave arm hair with 600 grit stropped lightly. I used to have a summer job just sharpening knives and scalpels, some by hand in the 70s. Been sharpening ever since.
they heard you and came out with the elite kit. go check it out
Excellent! Thank you. Love that you added the strop measurements, too.
I was taught decades ago to sharpen a knife with the push method. It always made me wonder how good sawing is since that’s pretty much how every RUclipsr I’ve watched does it, but old dog new tricks kept me from learning a whole new method. I guess it’s for the best I didn’t pick up new habits lol.
The "sweep", when done on a water stone with a western style kitchen knife, is commonly referred to as the "Kramer" method (as in Bob Kramer) or aka the "Crescent" method, and can be highly effective when executed correctly. The "Push" method and the "Saw" method are both (yet neither at the same time) a popular Japanese sharpening method referred to as the "Push/Pull" method. When pushing (edge trailing), pressure is applied a few millimeters above the contacting edge with two fingers from the free hand (whichever hand isn't gripping the knife). On the pull stroke (edge leading), the pressure applied by the fingers is released from the edge while remaining in contact with the blade, and without lifting the edge away from the sharpening surface. Pushing with pressure raises the burr, pulling without pressure helps to roll the burr and sheer it off without forcing abrasive grit into the apex which, as you saw during your experiment, will create jagged serrations or saw toothed edge. On the opposite side of this, if pulling only, eventually a "foil" edge will occur (if stropped in the opposite direction at a sharper angle than the bevel was pulled prior to the foil edge developing, a decently sharp edge can be achieved) requiring the edge to be manually blunted or "bricked" and the sharpening process started from the beginning. RUclipsrs, "An Engineer's Perspective" & "Burrfection" both have videos detailing the cause and effect of multiple sharpening methods, issues, and solutions. GL.
PS. The "transition from bevel to primary grind" is called the "shoulder". Hopefully that makes your life a little easier! lol
Sadly nobody is gonna read this book man haha 😂
@@joshmajor8662. I did
@@joshmajor8662 As did I. It was very good information.
I'm betting you're under 30 years of age.
I read this and I'm under 30 lol
Josh Major doesn't have the attention span to read for 20 seconds.
You guys just sold me on a Knife sharpener, I was looking at different ones and this video solidly sold me on this product.
I'd like to see what they look like after they have been stroped with the green compound. That would seem to give the edge the best result for removing the burrs.
On my system, which I progress through at least 6 stones, I use the saw technique for profiling and the next lowest grit. I then use the sweeping technique for the rest all the way up to ceramics. I find you get a mirror edge far faster and nicer, with the sweep on your highest grits.
Thank you for making [IMHO] the definitive sharpening system "Technique" video.
I've found for me, doing the sweep hilt to tip gives me the best results. Nice smooth and polished edge.
I use a combination of techniques here, push and sweep to the tip then pull and sweep away from the tip thru all grits and it really seems to give a nice polished edge even before I strop.
The results and video of the knife motion make me think the push works best with the clamp. The clamp is very stable but the saw action seems to move the blade the most. I will probably push to finish knives now. The saw action could still be used to reprofile before switching to push only. Love this sharpener and haven't had a bad result yet.
Might be worth trying saw for profiling, sweep re-establish a super smooth edge, then push to finish.
Enjoy these videos and being able to learn/geek out on sharpening! Thanks!
After a burr has developed and you flip the knife, I think it is important to do an initial pull stroke before "sawing". In my experience this prevents the burr from folding over or breaking off prematurely.
Love this deeper dive into the topic. Never heard anyone cover this, great video!
I really like the sawing motion for reprofiling/establishing an edge since it's a heck of a lot faster. I also use lapping films down to .5 micron though, and give 'em a few on a leather strop. My BESS tests usually come out to 110-150. Good to see that it puts a bit of tooth to the edge. It really helps when going through fibrous stuff like cardboard and rope.
Dead on Jerry! Here in Texas, I do a lot of work on the property. No Girley boy twine in the mix. Hell, I don't ever know what twine is unless it's a northern work for string, lol. I have to cut limbs out of fences, dress game, cut rope, leather, cutting pull ties, you name it. A smooth ultra edge with no teeth is useless. It may push cut and show better on this type of tester that shows a push cut only, but such an edge is useless here for anything other than shaving in the morning. That is reserved for straight razors. ;
Thank you so much for all this work ! I think the spoiler in this is the re clamping. So easy to be off 1-2 degrees. Yes clearly ending with stroping will help greatly to insure no wire edge left on the blades.
Edge leading, spine to edge scratch pattern. Pull strokes can refine maxamet. X strokes regrind and reduce burr. If you’re not contacting the edge, the pattern doesn’t matter. Sweeping strokes maximize draw cutting, but make push cutting a nightmare. This is incredibly nuanced gentlemen. The best overall for me is perpendicular to the edge scratches. 12 degree back bevel, 17-20 degree microbevel.
Thank you for these insights!
Always finish by stroking into the blade will take most of the burr off, but pulling leaves more burr. Try it on a grinder, away leaves a huge burr, but into it hardly leaves a burr at all. I always finish with longer sweeping strokes into the edge. I've been doing this by hand for 50 years, I've got it perfected pretty well. Because I'm doing it by hand it leaves a slightly convex edge.
Edit; btw scalpels are sharpened to 600-800 grit.
Excellent! I'm 77 y o and a long time sharpener. I learned several things viewing your approach in this video. Much obliged! I would really like to see some results following stropping when you get to that stage.
I just bought that system with the help of watching your videos. I was able to get a knife extremely sharp the first day. I’m a total beginner, and it was super easy to use.
I will now used the sawing technique on the profiling stage, the pulling technique on the sharpening stage, and pushing technique on the final stages. Ty
Push it is than. Thanks for the info, I had been using the saw method
@E S no its always push
Thanks for making this video guys. I’m interested to see what the results are after stropping each one.
Such a no-brainer.
@@DeadRingerMachine numerically is what i was interested in. Obviously they would become sharper.
Essentially, the sweep method is a version of stropping by hand, reproduced on an aid
I use the back and forth method then strop.
Same here and I’ve always had great results.!👍🏻
If you switch hands it feels like someone else is sharpening your knife 🙃
@@stoneblue1795 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
😂😂😂😂
Although not to keen on the system itself , the test and diligent evaluation was well worth the watch …👍🏻
Enjoyed this. Very informative. Three generations of pushing, to sharpen. I bought this sharpener 3 weeks ago and like it a lot. Very stable. I use the sweeping method to keep from eating too much material and to keep the edge centered. For me it is a game changer from a stone. I have been told a burr has to be made to sharpen a blade. I am still foggy on what a burr looks like. I have sharpened, from pocket knives to camping knives, all have a great edge. I will use the push method next round of sharpening. Thanks for the video. Keep them coming.
Happy to help! A burr is hard to see with the naked eye which is why we recommend feeling for it. For a great visual representation, check out @outdoors55. His camera setup is next level when it comes to sharpening up close.
This has always been the $65,000 question since aided sharpening systems have evolved and I was glued to the video from start to finish. It certainly answered a few of the majors, but it also certainly raised a few more minors, most of which have been addressed in some of the comments here. It would’ve been very interesting to see if stropping would’ve made a big difference right at the end to satisfy most of the those outstanding questions, because even you guys wondered that! The fact that clamping stays firmly clamped from start to finish and on this system only rotates is a wonderful facet of this unique system but somehow don’t feel that carrying on grits without turning would make such a big a difference for me personally to note and I might get lost in the process, plus I like to personally progress both sides to the end. Very, very interesting indeed though and think that most folk gravitating to this particular video have asked the same question for years and will come out of this leaning one way or the other but wondering about a strop finish. However, I personally came out of this once again to my own mind, deciding I will continue the push and always strop at the end. I also now take photographs of the clamped blade so that I can replicate to the best of my ability the same exact clamping as the last time on a particular knife. I have so many knives, plus kitchen knives, that I have to do that because I don’t remember exactly where I clamped the blade on each. Thank you for this and now it’s back to what is the secret to the universe?
With most my knives I mark with a sharpie marker where I set the blade in the clamp and then with a dremmel tool cut 2 tiny marks on the corner of the blade so next time I have readymade reference points. Obviously if you love the finish of your blade don't do that
I take pictures too. I find it very helpful for saving time doing touch-ups. I also am sure to include the sharpening angle it's set to in the picture to get the most exact set-up.
Not for nothing, but maybe you were referencing the “$64,000 Question”, a old timey game show where contestants were placed in a soundproof booth. Google $64,000 Question for more.
Cut into the stone to sharpen pull away to finish/polish. First pass on the second side always pull to realign the burr then cut into the stone until the burr is gone. And pressure is the key to getting a sharp edge. Less pressure is better (for finishing) the weight of the blade is all that's needed.
After watching this and the follow up video I decided to give the push method a go. I only used the saw method before. Without a doubt I noticed a massive difference with the push method. It took less time for a good edge and it was razor sharp.
When you use the push method, how far do you move the stone over after a swipe? For example, after your first push, does your second stroke overlap the first?
Great video! I use saw to profile get rolls and chips. I push is a sweeping motion after the bevel is established. Last two stones are ceramic and I straight push. Then strop on white paste then straight leather.
I learned some interesting things watching your video. I use a very similar guided system on my premium steel knives. Free hand my bigger fixed blades.
Thanks for the interesting content.
I found that using my WS PA gives a much more regular edge that lasts longer. Sharpening by hand gave me would give a razor sharp knife, but the bevel would be rounded and go dull quicker. Love the system. Thanks guys for the video. In the end everyone will take what they want, adapt it and use it according to their. needs!
OMG, that opening scene had me on the floor rolling.
C'mon buddy, REALLY ???
Thanks for the hard work in making this video! I wish you would have stropped them and sharp tested again.
I'm right-handed, and I find I push left and pull right. Every 180° flip is done the same way. Thanks, y'all, for the information on my new toy. The Work Sharp Elite is a sharp product. Bladie Mae is pleased, too.🎶🇨🇱
Super concise comparrisons. I'm new to this "skill" and that being said, I was guessing the "sweep" would be the motion I'd prefer. Your pics made that clear.
When you are sharpening a larger blade, like a kitchen knife, won't the angle change as your stone moves away from perpendicular to the machine? When i put my kitchen knife in, and put the angle measuring tool on it and select 15 degrees, if i then put the stone all the way out to the tip, the angle on the measuring tool reads 13 degrees.
I've been using the "saw" method but may start using the first one yall used next time I sharpen my knife
great video, answers so many theories using a sharpener
I'm proud to say that I just sharpend my M390 steel blade from lionsteel TRE in the Green G-10 and I just put the best edge I've ever put on a knife I've owned. In my life.
I think you'd get better results if you stabalize the clamp while sharpening. Try to minimize the up and down motion. I expected better results.
This may be the main reason that the push method worked the best. The clamp position is the most consistent for each stroke.
I've been using the sawing motion on my daily carry ad 15 it comes out almost mirror finished and hair popping sharp . You guys knocked it out of the park with the precision adjust. Hands down the best sharping system on the market at it's price point and it punches much higher and it on par with some much more pricey systems
The blade bounce is very noticeable in the videos. Early in every stroke the stone will work the point and as the stroke continues the angle flattens out producing a slightly convex bevel. Would this be significant, beneficial or detrimental? I don’t know.
I use my hand/ fingers (normally placed on the base) to cradle under the blade with my wrist resting on the base when I sharpen. You can stabilize the knife better this way. I bought some adhesive backed 220 grit sandpaper and attach it to the ceramic side for use with damaged edges with steel like S35VN. I can get sharp results very quickly like this. For the money, I usually always strop after sharpening. I cannot recommend this enough. One of my buddies bought this after I told him about it and he is very happy with it.
Cheers!
The aftermarket vice support is the best thing for consistency because the vice block moves the harder you push.
Especially with finer abrasives, I like to push-sweep in alternating sweep directions. Wonder what that looks like? It sure does polish nice.
Thanks for this video very instructive. This is changing my mind on the way to sharpen with the Precision. Big Up Guys from France !
Great Video. Interesting to see blade edges through a microscope. Been sharpening knives for over 65 years and have tried nearly every system out there except the real expensive ones. Lansky is my favorite economic sharpener but I prefer the freehand method. If I can get my knives sharp enough to shave and even sometimes to split a hair; well that’s sharp enough for me. Also sometimes I don’t want a paper thin edge as it dulls too quickly on some materials. Freehand is a skill that takes some practice but once you master it freehand is faster and takes less stones. I switched to diamond and ceramic, and leather strop and never looked back.
I would think that if you need a microscope to tell, then for all intents and purposes, it doesn't matter!
I'm old school and I use my old Norton stones, and diamond s..ceramic finish
I thank you for this test it answered a lot of questions. I honestly believe that tyhe sweep method will deliver the "SHARPEST" edge, which is what we want. Thanks again.
Jungs, das hat mir so gut gefallen. Das war so schön für mich.
After all of that, the final verdict was “they are all sharp”.
well chyea wat are chu exspecting 😄 its vry rare to have a blade be even duller then wat it started as b4 sharpening but i mean it dose happen tho from time ta time :/ the best method for such a thing would be too regrind the edge useing a belt sander but then again iv noticed tat if chu do it tat way then 1 would norm. never need too use a stone altho a strop and some polish after always dose the trick 😄
oh keep in mind tat there are a lagit shiton of ways too sharpen a blade besides just useing stones or grind wheels hell my step dad belive it or not he teached meh how to sharpen useing nothing but the pantlegs of my jeans 😄
Method one is hair popping sharp and everything else is just shaving sharp.
@@shadowdragonx07 learn English god damn
Thanks for this video. Interesting info and results. I will use this as I sharpen on my KME.
Finally, a KME guy. Agreed.
Better stones available, mostly METAL in the construction of the device, a better rig, yeah more money, but buy cheap, you buy TWICE.
After watching closely it amazes me how the angle changes when you apply pressure to the knife with each stroke. I guess a very sturdy stand would change that
Some guys are 3d printing pieces to fix that flaw some videos on here or check eBay after market parts for the system cheers
Good comparison, best sharpening video I've seen. Thanks...
I've been doing the sweep method. Definitely going to switch to the push! Great video and testing process. This system is great!
Knife 2 got a wire burr from the pull method where the burr just goes back and forth. This happens when sharpening on sandpaper pulling the knife back so you don’t cut the paper. You have to lightly draw the blade across something to knock the burr off a few times then check you edge and go from there. Otherwise you’ll be chasing the burr back and forth.
Fantastic video. I learned a lot and love my Worksharp Precision Adjust!!!! My question is, which method wears down your stones quicker? I want sharp knives but not at the cost of burning through my stones.
The sawing motion would wear the stones fastest. Fortunately you can replace them individually for about $8 on our website and they should last a long time before needing replacement.
This is a great video. I always wondered which way was best!
The BESS test measures sharpness for push cuts but which knife is the best slicer? I would think a toothy edge makes for good slicing and I've started putting that on all my working knives.
Great video, I personally have always used the push method because that's how I learned especially when using a file but never put the different methods to the test,, thanks again ........
Thanks for the video, truly helped me to decide to go ahead and purchase the system. Really informative!
I just received my Precision Elite with upgrade kit yesterday. I started with the 220 and went through all the grits up to the strop. I must say I am highly impressed. Firstly this is an awesome device. My first two knives, a CamillusTitanium 440 and a Boker Magnum 420, I can now shave my hair off. I was as giddy as a school boy. I used the sawing method for each knife. I am extremely please with the Precision Elite and the results. I have never been able to get such a sharp edge on any knife I have owned. So the sawing method worked for me in the jig better than the downward stroke with any of the stones I have. Thanks for a great product.
I have changed from push to pull after purchasing and using high end Japanese cutlery. I'm my attempt to keep it sharp I studied their techniques. They are masters of the blade.
I believe different steels will respond with very different results in method. Especially true with High V steels such as S110V. I agree about stropping altering the outcome on the BESS Tester. I was just dieing to see you guys strop these knives and restesting. Well done.
2:18 I see the knife flexing as he applies downward pressure to the blade with the sharpening stone. Does this not reduce the effective sharpening angle by a few degrees? Should less pressure be used perhaps?
I just bought one of these and was wondering what is the best technique. This is fabulous video thank you guys
I use the same sharpener and I use the saw method when using the roughest stone. The finest grit stone that I end up with is done in a push method followed by the strop. Seems to work well.
Wish yall sold the replacement tri-stone. Have to buy the whole upgrade kit again.
Check with our customer service to be sure on that. Send them a email at info@worksharptools.com
Angle dad always wants a chisel angle profile,me I like all kinds for different blade types,his chisel edge really seems to work for WORK
Nicely done guys! I discussed this in my 2-year old, very amateur, RUclips video, using several of my angle-controlled sharpening systems, including my PRECISION ADJUST KNIFE SHARPENER - ELITE™ SUBQUENTLY, life got really busy, and I didn't post my followup. I found was using the "sawing" motion was OK with profiling and repair, followed by using the push method, finishing with "Pull Motion" stropping, consistently produced the sharpest edges with some noticeable decrease in time required. Try it and see if it works for you. Lastly, I've experimented with the "Swirl Pattern" on my larger sharpening system, using 6" stones. Its results seem comparable with the push method be yields a mirror finish without the cutting streaks, pitting, etc. I demo the Swirl Mode on my video. Stay Sharp. BTW, these days I'm a Ken Onion System fan for profiling and repair, followed by the PROFESSIONAL PRECISION ADJUST™KNIFE SHARPENER for the final edge. Your milage is guaranteed to vary.
I have been a Lansky user for many years, and I have just switched over to Work Sharp Tools. I was checking out a couple of your videos before I started to use your system. I have always used a push stroke with the Lansky and was glad that the saw method you originally showed was not the only option, and the push stroke seems to be the most effective.
I also was a Lansky user and recently bought the Work Sharp System. I am use to the push technique and before I start, wanted to research user results.
Just used the Precision elite and it is really extraordinary.
I am not a great stone user, or other sharpening methods that are out there. But your system is made for me. Real results right out of the box with some instruction.
I found the back/forth method is best for me - it gets the job done fast and with no deficit.
Do you make or plan to make parts or another version for larger - especially thicker knifes?
Outstanding, really.
Gregory
It looks like the knife mount bends down when you apply some force, does the whole thing bend so that the angle stays the same or just the clamp? Then the angle would change
Absolutely does on my heavier knives. My Kabar for example makes the mount sag.
Nice work guys! I tend to buy high end steels and find that dome have larger carbides than others. These carbides can be pulled out in a pull stroke leaving gaps in the edge. So I always push stroke with one exception… when reprofiling a hard blade I will saw stroke to save time when starting out with my coarsest stone. (I use diamond stones in the first three passes, then ceramic then sapphire) Once I’ve laid in the new profile with that coarse stone I push stroke the remainder. Been doing this with my original Lansky clamp for some 25 years. Love the “zip lock” effect a scalpel sharp knife offers!
What you mean by “zip lock”? Just curious now haha
I think a combo of styles will serve one well. I was sharpening a broadhead while watching this. I had a ceramic hone on and I switched from "sawing" to"pushing" to "pulling with a sweep" and WOW!
16:00, I don't think it's a clamping problem, I think the sawing motion is clogging up the ceramic faster where it's no longer polishing just rubbing metal on metal
I found for me I get a nicer edge ending each grit pushing into the blade. I use a kme but it's the same concept.
Question. When doing the push method, does it still create a burr on the slicing edge? Or will the burr instead form where the upper part of the slicey edge meets the apex of the blade face? ...please advise 🤔
I use the sawing method and I love this sharpener
When using mine I use the sawing at lower grits on edges that need work or reprofiling and need to move metal quick. Once I get to my higher grit rod (the one that’s 600, 800 and ceramic) I switch over to the push only. Then I always finish on my strop.
Would like for you to try my Grandads old technique, which is in a circular motion. I use it and it sharpens on wet stones pretty well.
I figured push would be best. My thoughts were that it would be like woodworking , where you get cleaner cuts when theres material backimg up the edge you’re cutting. When theres nothing behind a board (like a sacrificial piece, or the wood of your fence/sled, you get blowout.
When your sharpening with the push method, the metal of the knife is supporting the metal thats being cut (sharpened)… hope that makes sense… but thats my hypothesis
Try using a little less pressure your flexxing the blade in the clamp n you can see it in the scratch pattern
What make/model USB scope is used here ?
In my experience, edge leading (with stones) will provide least amount of bur and best end result. With lower grits, plateau sharpening will reduce edge damage during sharpening.
Excellent video comparison here, you could measure the push pull + sweep forward and sweep back as thats how a chef would usually sharpen depending on whether they are pushing or pulling through food, But, it's still easy to see a pushing sweep is going to give the cleanest results as long as you have a good sweep angle consistency, elsewise, just push and you're golden mostly.
I just got one of these, and i tend to make “circles/ovals” when i sharpen along the blade. Its faster and works better for me!
I have been doing the sawing method to get the profile I want, and finishing each grit with the pushing method.
What about a pushing sweep? That's how I use the field sharpener and it seems to work. I'm looking into a precision sharpener to use on my higher end knives than the ken edition.
Has the issue of flex as you go across the blade been resolved? What I am calling the flex: as you press stone to blade the clamp slightly moves downward toward the table. This ultimately changes the angle, and might be the issues seen in the micro cam.
There is still some flex, working with plastic, its almost unavoidable, but keeps he cost down and really is not much of an issue on average sized pocket knives if you apply proper pressure when sharpening.
I use back and forth to create the edge.
Only push to clean the burr and most times leave it like that.
Sometimes after I clean the burr I use a few pull passes for a more aggressive edge.
Only pull leaves too much burr.
So, should there be any different technique for expensive chef kitchen knives, especially Santoku knives?? And I currently use a stone with two sides, one coarse and the other smooth. Is that not good for expensive kitchen knives?
Could you please link to the exact model of microscope and stand you used?