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Yep, that was my first thought. First time we would run a plow in the ground during a season it would be rusted over pretty well. When I pulled it up at the turn row it would be gleaming.
Hi Brock. In my area of the country; the plows get pulled until they have a mirror finish on the steel. I'll bet yours will too, after a while. Love your videos.
Moldboards are designed to plow half the depth of the with. So a 10" should plow 5" deep, a 12" should plow 6" deep and so on. This allows the top cover to be turned over and put the sod completely under. This allows the grass and weeds to rot in and kill any unwanted seeds. A Coulter is designed to cut sod and other trash. It also helps to keep the furrow edge clean and straight. This let's the tractor tire run in the furrow better. If the plot has been plowed and tilled before without much trash the Colter may not be needed. I hope this helps. Greg
The following are comments from one who has plowed multiple acres with a 2 bottom using a 2038r: 1) Front ballast is helpful, even a bucket with some dirt helps 2) At the front of each bottom on the frame are two bolt holes, that is for the bracket that holds the coulter. This helps immensely with cutting sod. 3) As others have said in various ways, the plow isn’t meant to be buried. 4) make sure both bottoms are at the same depth and angle, otherwise you will be drifting with your tractor.
Brock, The 12, 14, 16 refers to width of furrows, not depth you are able to plow. Good video, I think by bypassing or stalling hydro, oil is becoming super heated and can cause internal damage and ultimately hydro failure. Thanks for in-depth look at options.
that 4x4 block trick your not supposed to drive all 4 tires up on blocks only the left side (as sitting on the seat of the tractor) should be on blocks so that way your tractor is leaning simulating being in the furrow and the plow should be parallel on the ground it looks messed up but its the right way just look up garden tractor plow days
I believe you're attempting to take too deep of a cut given your current set up. That tractor should have no issue running that plow. I have the same plow but with a set of sod cutters on it, I use the sod cutters to set depth of cut and that makes a huge difference. Keep an eye on farm auctions, you should be able to find a set of cutters for it, or make your own.
Plow in the spring soon after the frost leaves the ground. Your soil will be much looser and it will be easier to plow. This will make more difference than any of the suggestions you mentioned! We had an oversized plow for our tractor and spring plowing was much easier than fall plowing.
Good bargain you found on that plow. Could use one out here as well. Got a 3010 from the 50's I would use to plow, with its weight, but I am having trouble sourcing a 3 point hitch for it, all she has is an adjustable draw bar. I agree with the fact that there is less disturbance to the land with the plow. I used a disc this year and it went almost as deep as a tiller, but the area I worked was so full of rocks it would have likely caused damage to it as well, seemed that there was enough of a root system left intact to start growing a lot sooner, with less topsoil being washed down the swale because its not as arid. Thanks for the video!
I enjoyed this video. I’ve never been a big fan of hydrostatic transmissions for the fact they seem to stall out on power to the wheel vs spinning. But they are nice in other applications also. I use to turn plow with Dad’s John Deere 770 a lot back in my young days, it did really well for that size tractor and would do it at lower RPM’s. 3 point geometry makes a big difference in how a tractor plows. My 245 Ferguson actually seems to plow better then my 4 wheel drive M6060. Not that the little Massey pulls better but it’s hitch setup makes the plow pull easier. Good job!
Hey Brock , I use both , I go over the garden with an old Dearborn two bottom and then finish with my 6 foot rototiller for my Kubota L Grand 3540.... Works like a charm and the ground is perfect. Thank You for the videos.👍👍
This is my biggest complaint with the John Deere larger 2r and 3e series tractors, they need a 3 speed hydrostatic. the low range on the Kubota's and my New Holland only allows me to go 4mph so it has a lot more pulling power. I have been tempted to buy a 2 bottom plow of Facebook Marketplace too for my garden, but I am going to get a tiller first. I wish I would have seen your post on the Champion tillers before they sold out.
Ok shining the plows was a waist of time, the dirt would have done that. The two problems I see is you are plowing grass, the hardest thing to do. Second the points looks almost new, new points plow mean till they get wore down a little bit. I hope you was in low range, speed isn't that critical. Good Luck smoothing it down, you may have to use your tiller some. In a big field with plowed grass it would take an offset disk to work it up.
Plowing would be a once every decade type tool. There is a reason why that practice isn't used much anymore. A tiller can go down about 7 inches and a 12 inch plowshare is designed to go down 6 inches. So you would need a 14 inch plow to go that deep. As a plowshare goes through the ground it creates a compaction layer at that depth. Then you need a chisel plow to break that up.
Good content Brock. IMHO you may have had better luck or at least some easier going pulling a single bottom plow. You never know. Experience is the best teacher.
Interesting video. I would guess you could efficiently plow about 4-5" deep with your 2038R. Deeper if you use only one plow bottom. I remember as a kid, we used H Farmalls to plow about that deep with a 2-bottom round pull-behind plow that was not on a three-point hitch. We thought we were really doing something! :-) But I doubt we ever touch the soil deeper that 5-6". Years later, I plowed the same lant with a 110 hp John Deer and a 5-bottom 3-point hitch plow and saw dirt that I had never touched before come to the surface. I have a 2038R and I would like to get a plow like you have just for small jobs like garden spots. You're right, these tractors are not designed for row-crop applications on a big scale. If the land has not been turned in a long time, the first time will be much more difficult too.
Id agree 4-5 inches. . Trying to plow 9 inches deep id say is pretty much 90% of his issue. He's lucky he ever got it that deep to begin with lol. Had me real concerned at why a decently powerful tractor at 36.7hp couldn't pull till he whipped out the tape measure. He says " 12 inch moldboard you should be able to go 10 inches deep". That's nuts. 12 inch moldboard does 6 inches. 16 inch does 8. 10 inch does 5. They are supposed to plow up to half the cut length in depth and not really any more. My uncle's got a plow like this one and I've hung up his regular big tractors trying to plow 10-12 inches. Usually on a big rock but still. The size and the hst have a little to do with it but I think the main thing is he's just expecting more of a tool than what it's designed for
@EthanPDobbins if you listen to the video, I took a measurement and said it was 9 inches and that I was going to not go so deep on the following passes. I had just as much trouble cutting at 6 inches. I also explained why the 38 hp wasn’t doing as well as you might expect. First hydrostat, loses a lot of power compared to a gear drive tractor, second, it’s much smaller than the average 38 hp tractor. Smaller wheels and tires. Finally, The big one is that it’s only a two range transmission instead of a three range. That means that you don’t have a true low gear which is what it should be in
@@RockhillfarmYT the hst and lack of a real low range are issues here especially the lack of low range. I think these things are designed mainly for pto attachments thats why they are made to put most of their power into pto. they are not really built with pulling in mind but I'm just saying it still seems to me you're trying to break a boulder with a 9oz hammer. 6inch is all that a 12-inch plow is ever supposed to be doing even with a big regular transmission tractor. With more power or when using single bottom you can make them go deeper but you're not really supposed to. Theoretically yours should be pulling it fine at 6 deep with 2 because it's got 36.7hp should be more than enough to give it the commonly recommended 10hp per bottom or even enough for 1-1 like 12hp per 12 inch bottom but I think with the size and gear limitations you mentioned this thing would do best with a two bottom 10 inch and respect for the depth limit or Since you're trying to use the plow you've already got I would say it's probably still a good idea to stick to 4 to 5 inches. 5 inches is about all the depth a tiller for a mini is gonna go anyways. If you want to plow deeper then removing the rear blade is the way to go then you shouldnt have trouble going 6-7 inches maybe even more. It will take more time but maybe the next year it'll be soft enough to use both.
Howdy Brock! Interesting stuff for sure. I know nothing of larger scale field work, so have no idea what might help. Sounds like you covered most everything and it makes sense. I don't see a whole lot of plowing in my area anymore - most farmers have gone no-till, which has it's own positives and negatives. Nicely done and thanks for sharing 🤠
No till seems to work well when there is enough moisture to keep the ground in good growing condition, once you start to get prolonged months of drought, especially a few years of it like we've had up here. The earth starts to get packed down and growth gets sparce. This effect is amplified if its a pasture with hooved livestock on it continuously packing it down. After you get march april may with 2 MM of rain combined there is not much that will help you grow short of irrigation, though the plow rows at least help stop any water you put on it from just washing off the top and running off without sinking into the ground.
With hydrostatic transmissions, the reason you ease into it is because you generate the most torque when you’re in low gear and barely engage the hydrostatic. It’s the only way my little LX 2610 can pull a full box of gravel up a hill when I’m smoothing out my gravel lane. The most power comes from low gear and feathering the hydrostatic peddle in order to get the most HP and torque to the ground. Edit: personally I would go with a single bottom plow and save yourself the time. I agree with why you want to plow before you till. It works wonders pulling up vital nutrients to the surface.
When you go to level the plow. It is best to do it on hard flat ground. Or, concrete. Drive both left side front and rear wheels up on the blocking.Then level the plow so that both bottoms are touching the ground equally by raising or lowering the draft arms. They will look off (one up, one down) from the rear of the tractor. Then, level the plow front to rear with the top link.. I am not familiar with your tractor. Can you adjust the draft on it? If so, you can set the depth control and keep it at your plowing depth. A 14" plow should run a max depth of 7". Depth equals half the shear length, Then, when you plow a bit? look to see if your furrow wall is straight and clean. If your landslides are good, it should be straight and clean. If Not? And, the plow is trying to pull the tractor sideways? You may need to extend one of the draft arms to basically turn the plow either to the right or left a bit. If the arms are not adjustable? There may be a way to move the brackets on the plow itself that the arms attach to. The other thing that you mentioned? Coulters. These are generally an option on the plows. The time they very beneficial is when plowing sod. They will cut the sod in front of the plow point. But, in a non-sod type situation? Especially, if there is alot of trash? They tend to plug up often. Some folks put 1 coulter on the rear bottom to help create a clean furrow wall. Having the plow leveled is the way it will pull as easy as possible. Another thing you may want to look at? Look at your shears. Look at the cutting edge. If it is rounded? You can grind a bit off of the underside of the cutting edge to sharpen it up a bit. Make sure you sharpen it according the angle it sits at on the bottom, Ie; when it is on the plow, you want to grind across the bottom of the shear parallel with ground. I know on some hydro tractors, it is possible to increase hydro pressure by adjustment. However, that may void your powertrain warranty. The fact that it isn't spinning out and instead just stalling the hydros? Suggests that it may need adjustment. Or, a 1 bottom plow may be your best. Good Luck
Try extending the top link a couple more inches so the tip of the plow is about an inch off the ground when you are on the blocks. It will not dive as much but will still cut
Seems to work a little better. Maybe adjusting the top link out a few more turns will help a lot. Maybe try 7" deep or so should work even better, and the soil should shine the board right up for u
Happy to see you gaining ground and making improvements. I’d still try the two pass approach, friend of mine does numerous garden’s and a few food plots with a two bottom plow with a L4701 Kubota. It’s what he does… for what it’s worth.. lol
Having to feather your plow is ok , if you were pushing dirt with a dozer and took too big of a bite it would stop the dozer until you feathered the blade on it also. If this is the first time the ground has been plowed it will also pull harder on the tractor! It will take you some trial and error but you will get it I'm sure of it!!
I'd say you're biggest problem is still power. I pull a 3 bottom plow with a 72 hp tractor and I can stall it out in summer. I also found out that faster is better, the dirt flows better.
Late comment.... two things. One, drop a bottom. Two, continue as you are, and it will have no problem pulling it in the same spot next year! Approximately 20 hp per bottom to plow new compacted soil. Your hydro even at 38 hp, is not putting that much horsepower to the wheels. We use plows in sizes from single bottom in the garden to sixteen bottoms in farm fields. My favorite is the super chief international bottom in the garden to the kverneland or Kuhn in the commercial farm operations, even though I bleed green when cut!😊 Stay with it, it will work out.
Haven’t used it yet but I got a homemade single 16” bottom 3 point plow I could try behind a 1025r. Always wondered if it was too big of a bottom for the little tractor. Since I got few older JD 2 cylinder tractors and plows for them that’s what I use. I didn’t have much experience with a plow when I started pulling a new to me 3 bottom plow behind a model A it seemed to plow better in 3rd gear than 2nd. It looked to turn over better when I didn’t lower the plow all the way down. Was fun to try and experiment with my tractors and learn a lil more things
I wouldn't worry so much about the rust because the soil will shine the plows. The on thing that I do is sharped the plows from the plow horn to the heel. It does need to be like razor sharp but sharp enough to cut the soil. I seen other videos that people was using Hydrostatic Compact Tractors pulling a two bottom plows with ease. But sharped the plows what to you have to lose. Your right about plowing V rototilling plowing opens the ground for better aeration of the soil and to absorb more nutrients. I know some farmers in my area where I live at here in Missouri has gone back to plowing their fields instead of doing the no-till. So that they can get a higher yield in their crop growth. You can try setting your plans to plow at 6 to 8" deep furrows plow in low gear and full throttle.
My family has pretty much always had a garden and my dad always plowed before tilling although our ground is hard clay and he said that he plowed to make it easier on the tiller because the plow was cheaper to replace than the tiller.
If you have to go super slow and not plow as deep as you want to with your tractor, I don’t see a benefit to try and use a two bottom plow. A single 14 or a single 16 would be a much better option. A lot of people plow one direction and then back up all the way to the beginning to plow again. That takes double the time too. Split your plot in half and roll the dirt to one side, then turn around and roll it the other way. That way you are always plowing from one end to the other, not just one direction. When I plow my garden I roll the dirt all inwards one year, then towards the outside of the garden the next so there isn’t a hump or a ditch in the middle of the garden. That old plow will shine up with time too. Love the videos! Take care!
sods tough as hell to plow through the Coulters the wheel u mentioned would help slice the sod instead of it trying to rip through it. bet if u plowed something thats already been worked it would pull it fine
Around here the only thing a plow like that does is bring up weed seeds. Also you shouldnt go at fresh gorund with a tiller, you should use use a subsoiler then a chisel plow, field cultivator, scarifier, or whatever you call it in your region, then use a tiller. One pass with a tiller wont pulverize the soil too much. Also farmers dont use a tiller because they have tractors and disc harrows heavy enough that does in one pass what it would take multiple passes with a compact tractor to achieve.
Easy way to explain why you ease into it Easing into it with a hydrostatic drive is like Easing off the clutch (too much power too quickly can cause damage)
Does that tractor have "Draft Control"? The Draft control would adjust the plow depth as it starts to pull very hard. Lastly, after the first time that the ground is plowed, it should plow easier every time after.
If that tractor had a 3 range transmission like the 3R with the crawl gear, it would've tore that dirt up. Measuring the wheelbase of a 3R and 2038R shows the 3R is one inch longer and one inch wider at the wheels. It causes the 2R to not make any sense to me as a potential purchase.
Very interesting. I am just a layman interested to learn. I was thinking to get a small tractor to play on my small property, but it is this kind of thing and the huge cost that holds me back. What is it about your soil that makes the going so hard? I don't see rocks or roots and doesn't seem terribly solid with clay. I do think I see the sod holding it back - making it hesitate. Would it be better after a rain (or worse)? Anyway, just mechanically speaking: At 20HP deisel tractor could definitely do the job, given sufficient traction and that nothing breaks - it's just the speed at which it can do it. But what is preventing this 40 HP tractor from getting the job done is the hydrostatic drive - I realise on watching. If it were mechanically driven and the gearing were appropriate and if the tires held and nothing tore off or bent - that tractor could do the job without breaking a sweat - if at very moderate rate of speed. But there is something difficient about the design of the hydrostatic drive - it's like it's trying to start out in third gear with a heavy load by trying to slip the clutch (of a manual) - it does not work same as proper gearing. You are triggering the pressure relief of the hydrostatic pump. That tractor was made to look good on he showroom floor - it's just bad design suggest complain to Deere (although that might be like complaining to Boeing about deficient plane design). The difference is that those old tractors with mechanical gearing were properly designed to get work done. It's not that hydrostatic cant do the job. My wife's new fangle jap car (SUV) has a CVT (hydraulic) transmission. The thing has a little four and the CVT makes it so whatever you are doing and whatever speed you are going, the engine is at the optimum speed/gearing. - the engine never struggles (you wont win races, though it's off the line like a pony car).
You may want to check your hydraulic pressure / hydrostatic drive. The reason I say this is that I have a similar setup but with a larger frame tractor. 35 Hp hydrostatic drive in a Yanmar YT235. similar to a 3 series JD. At 2750 PSI hydraulic pressure I can spin the wheels on my tractor all day. And yes the tires are filled with beet juice etc. So It has more weight and bigger tires, giving more traction that your small frame tractor. As an example, when I get my sub boiler stuck on a big tree root or rock ( I live 30 miles from rocky top Tennessee ) so I have a number crop of rocks every year. So you could say that my place is rockhall farm the original 😊. In low range, way before it bogs the engine down, it will spin all 4 wheels and did for something solid underneath. Your 38 HP tractor should be able spin those wheels with ease in low range before bogging down the drive train. Just my two cents worth and probably worth less than that.
You would be a lot better off with a trailing plow . I've got a Little Genius 2X14 that I pull behind a Mahindra Max 26XL and it works fine. You don't have to worry about the 3 point adjustment, depth and angle adjustments are on the plow frame.
I’ve had pretty much every brand 3 point tiller, yes I make sure I keep up with service on them, eventually they all breakdown, so I have decided no more 3 point tiller’s because they always break when you need them most, so I went old school this year with the older metal equipment, my compact tractor is a compact 33 horsepower tractor, hydrostatic transmission like yours, the only thing left to buy is a plow, found several 2 row plows but I am not sure it can pull a 2 row plow, what is your take on this?, Ty, keep the videos coming
My tiller actuall goes fairly deep. Do not have to disc afterwards. HOWEVER a good deep plow is great for bringing important things back to the surface for crops.
I'm just going to use a box blade then come back with a rock bucket to bust it up. Buying a plow and a disc was simply to much. I got the box blade I kind of need a rock.bucket so why not lol
You are talking about dropping in 10 in that's way deeper than needed 12 in bottom about 7 in deep furrow also make sure your cutting only 12 in between the first bottom and the inside edge of your right wheel this will help you pull easier and make for a more uniform tillage also look at the geometry of the top link closer to get more uniform furrowing between the front and rear bottom as well as proper offset on your three point lift arms if properly set most small tractors these days have plenty of power to pull a 2 bottom it then just becomes a ballist issue does it whey enough for traction.
No need to shine the Mould boards. They will shine themselves with 30 minutes of breaking. Things that will help you do not have. A gear drive transmission will add about 4 horsepower. Ag tires will help a lot. Tractor weight will also help tremendously.. It is very simple as you say, you just not have enough tractor to pull a Two bottom plow!!!!. Also, my old Dearborn Plow manual says you need to run 4 to 6 mph to get good roll over with your Mould boards.
List weight for my tractor is 2500 pounds. Mine actually what is 5000 because I have added every kind of weight you can add. Putting weight in the bucket would actually take weight off of the rear of the tractor
Those talking about there 25hp pulling a 2 bottom plow also have to think about gearing, if he had a 3rd slower range it would pull it for sure. Some of these tractors like my Kubota L2850 have such a low 1st gear in low range the dam thing would pull a house if it had the traction.
If your tractor had a manual transmission I bet it would pull better...these hydrostatic transaxles just don't pull like a regular old manual tractor will...keep in mind those older tractors had more weight to them as well, so they'd be able to put the power to the ground more effectively without spinning wheels. I don't have a plow, I know my tractor wouldn't pull a 2 bottom plow, it would be lucky to pull a single bottom plow, and even that would be a big if it could. I do have a roto-tiller, but I don't garden so not a huge deal for me anyhow. I would assume that after plowing you'd want to disc that area, at least that's what the farmers do where I live...they plow, then a day or so later they go through the field with a disc...some follow behind the plow with some sort of implement that busts up all the dirt clods and smooths stuff out a bit, then they go over it with a disc....I think that other implement is something called a culti-packer....they sometimes run it after plowing and after discing.
Your tractor has the power to pull that plow, but I think John Deere limited the hydro transmission conservatively to avoid damage/premature wear, on the transmission. I also think they possibly gave that "smaller" tractor "big" horse power to give decent power to run pto powered implements. If it were me,{which it's not} I would try and find a single bottom plow, or an old "cheap" farm tractor to pull that 2 bottom plow, just so I wouldn't overheat the hydro transmission. All of this is MY opinion. I am NO expert, and non of this is meant to be critical. Enjoyed the video.
If it struggles with two plows, then I would not use two plows. I would just use one plow and don't plow as deep the first year. The second year I would plow a little deeper with just one plow. {Breaking up the sod the first year.} There will be less stress on the tractor and on the "farmer". {That's you. A really important person.} Folks mentioned how the plow will polish up on its own by using it, that is true. Most equipment will last longer if you don't push it to its limit. Farmers will also last longer if they are not pushed to their limit. P.S. Farmers are one of the main backbones of this country.
Umm, no, you do not drive all four wheels onto blocks. You only drive the left wheels onto blocks. This is to simulate your right side wheels being in a furrow. Then drop your plow onto the level ground and adjust your top link and lift arm link so that the plow sits level front to back and side to side on the ground. The blocks should be the same height as the plow depth you want to plow. Six inches is deep enough. You have more than enough horsepower to pull the two bottom plow, the problem is it's a hydrostat. If you had gear drive the tractor would pull the plow easily assuming you have enough weight to get traction, which I think you do. Your tractor probably doesn't have a true draft control, so one plow modification you might think about for the future is adding an adjustable gauge wheel to the plow mounted to engage the ground about four inches outboard of your rear moldboard.
I suspect a majority of the suggestions I heard are from people who dont own a plow or used one. Angle and hoq much tractor are the biggest factors. I have had a number of larger tractors now own a Kubota L2501, and I plow foodplots with my 2 bottom plow. Believe it or not with better results, but there are ao many variables. I also have sandy, less dense soil. Is it a perfect machine for it? No. But you can fet by. Interesting video and test
That hp info other people are telling you is not quite right. Old timers never talked about engine hp, all they cared about was drawbar hp and PTO. The engine hp is always greater than those two, but the manufacturers figured out over time that tractors sound a lot bigger and more attractive when you advertise the the engine hp as opposed to drawbar. That said, your 2038 probably has about the same drawbar hp as an 8N. Main performance difference reasons that come to mind are 1) your tires are not r1 ag tires that would give you much better traction than the r4 style tires, and 2) wheel base is a lot narrower - 8N was a row crop tractor with a wider base and probably lower to the ground. I’d suspect there’s also a torque issue with your being a hydrostatic but I’m enough of a gear head to really know.
Captain I know you said you can do this all day, but you’re tractor said dude stop. I’m pretty sure that size tractor in gear drive would have no problem.
you did the best that you could. bottom line your tractor is running at max with that two bottom plow..... this is why hydro tractors fail to shine with a load like this. I think a 8n ford would handle that load better
Whilst I suspect you may be right about the tractor, looking at the result of your ploughing, I think you would benefit with the help of an experienced ploughman to show you how to set up the plough
You did your setup completely wrong. Moldboard plows are designed to work best at half the width of the moldboard. IE, 2x12" would be best at 6" depth, 2x14" 7" depth, etc. Once you know how deep your going, set the non furrow side of the tractor up on that thickness of blocks, and completely level the plow front to back, and side to side. Also, make sure the trailing edge of the lead moldboard is just inside the rear furrow tire track. Coulters should be 1/2" away from the cutting edges of the moldboards.
Posting this video is not about me getting the ground plowed. It’s about answering a question. Can the 2038r pull two bottom plow. I’m confident it can pull a one bottom plow. Doing that solves no problem for the viewer. If I just wanted this ready to plant, I’d run my tiller over it. A lot of people are wanting to avoid spending the money on a tiller, and would like to be able to plow with a little little tractor like this
Add the Colter to the plow that cut the soil asyou go along , almost all plows came with them and , I plowed many tobacco fields with Mf. 35 about 40 hp at flywheel, but weight was 3500 lbs
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Brock are these 14" or 18" bottoms?
1a
Just my experience, pulling plows that are rusty will shine up naturally from the ground abrasions relatively fast.
Agreed in like one pass .
Yep, that was my first thought. First time we would run a plow in the ground during a season it would be rusted over pretty well. When I pulled it up at the turn row it would be gleaming.
Hi Brock. In my area of the country; the plows get pulled until they have a mirror finish on the steel. I'll bet yours will too, after a while. Love your videos.
Moldboards are designed to plow half the depth of the with.
So a 10" should plow 5" deep, a 12" should plow 6" deep and so on.
This allows the top cover to be turned over and put the sod completely
under. This allows the grass and weeds to rot in and kill any unwanted seeds.
A Coulter is designed to cut sod and other trash. It also helps to keep the furrow
edge clean and straight. This let's the tractor tire run in the furrow better.
If the plot has been plowed and tilled before without much trash the Colter may not be
needed.
I hope this helps.
Greg
The following are comments from one who has plowed multiple acres with a 2 bottom using a 2038r:
1) Front ballast is helpful, even a bucket with some dirt helps
2) At the front of each bottom on the frame are two bolt holes, that is for the bracket that holds the coulter. This helps immensely with cutting sod.
3) As others have said in various ways, the plow isn’t meant to be buried.
4) make sure both bottoms are at the same depth and angle, otherwise you will be drifting with your tractor.
Brock,
The 12, 14, 16 refers to width of furrows, not depth you are able to plow.
Good video, I think by bypassing or stalling hydro, oil is becoming super heated and can cause internal damage and ultimately hydro failure. Thanks for in-depth look at options.
you rock dude. Thanks for the info and 'learn as you go' approach. It helps us all so much
that 4x4 block trick your not supposed to drive all 4 tires up on blocks only the left side (as sitting on the seat of the tractor) should be on blocks so that way your tractor is leaning simulating being in the furrow and the plow should be parallel on the ground it looks messed up but its the right way just look up garden tractor plow days
I believe you're attempting to take too deep of a cut given your current set up. That tractor should have no issue running that plow. I have the same plow but with a set of sod cutters on it, I use the sod cutters to set depth of cut and that makes a huge difference. Keep an eye on farm auctions, you should be able to find a set of cutters for it, or make your own.
Plow in the spring soon after the frost leaves the ground. Your soil will be much looser and it will be easier to plow. This will make more difference than any of the suggestions you mentioned! We had an oversized plow for our tractor and spring plowing was much easier than fall plowing.
Good bargain you found on that plow. Could use one out here as well. Got a 3010 from the 50's I would use to plow, with its weight, but I am having trouble sourcing a 3 point hitch for it, all she has is an adjustable draw bar. I agree with the fact that there is less disturbance to the land with the plow. I used a disc this year and it went almost as deep as a tiller, but the area I worked was so full of rocks it would have likely caused damage to it as well, seemed that there was enough of a root system left intact to start growing a lot sooner, with less topsoil being washed down the swale because its not as arid.
Thanks for the video!
I enjoyed this video. I’ve never been a big fan of hydrostatic transmissions for the fact they seem to stall out on power to the wheel vs spinning. But they are nice in other applications also. I use to turn plow with Dad’s John Deere 770 a lot back in my young days, it did really well for that size tractor and would do it at lower RPM’s. 3 point geometry makes a big difference in how a tractor plows. My 245 Ferguson actually seems to plow better then my 4 wheel drive M6060. Not that the little Massey pulls better but it’s hitch setup makes the plow pull easier. Good job!
Thanks for the info
Hey Brock ,
I use both , I go over the garden with an old Dearborn two bottom and then finish with my 6 foot rototiller for my Kubota L Grand 3540....
Works like a charm and the ground is perfect. Thank You for the videos.👍👍
How long do you go in between the plowing and tilling? Right away, or weeks???
@@Rsiikarla Right away .
I would love to see Tony bring his TYM 2515 and hook to the same plow in the same ground for a comparison.
Me too. I’m thinking I will find some other tractors to compare.
I have a 2520R so I always plow in 4 wheel drive and work my plow up and down to help get thru the first time
This is my biggest complaint with the John Deere larger 2r and 3e series tractors, they need a 3 speed hydrostatic. the low range on the Kubota's and my New Holland only allows me to go 4mph so it has a lot more pulling power. I have been tempted to buy a 2 bottom plow of Facebook Marketplace too for my garden, but I am going to get a tiller first. I wish I would have seen your post on the Champion tillers before they sold out.
Ok shining the plows was a waist of time, the dirt would have done that. The two problems I see is you are plowing grass, the hardest thing to do. Second the points looks almost new, new points plow mean till they get wore down a little bit. I hope you was in low range, speed isn't that critical. Good Luck smoothing it down, you may have to use your tiller some. In a big field with plowed grass it would take an offset disk to work it up.
Your plow is fine. You need to adjust the plow properly. Only drive the right side of the tractor upon the 4x4s.
Plowing would be a once every decade type tool. There is a reason why that practice isn't used much anymore.
A tiller can go down about 7 inches and a 12 inch plowshare is designed to go down 6 inches. So you would need a 14 inch plow to go that deep.
As a plowshare goes through the ground it creates a compaction layer at that depth. Then you need a chisel plow to break that up.
Good content Brock. IMHO you may have had better luck or at least some easier going pulling a single bottom plow. You never know. Experience is the best teacher.
Plowing sod over takes a lot more power than if you were plowing and existing garden. I think next year it will go a lot smoother for you.
Interesting video. I would guess you could efficiently plow about 4-5" deep with your 2038R. Deeper if you use only one plow bottom. I remember as a kid, we used H Farmalls to plow about that deep with a 2-bottom round pull-behind plow that was not on a three-point hitch. We thought we were really doing something! :-) But I doubt we ever touch the soil deeper that 5-6". Years later, I plowed the same lant with a 110 hp John Deer and a 5-bottom 3-point hitch plow and saw dirt that I had never touched before come to the surface. I have a 2038R and I would like to get a plow like you have just for small jobs like garden spots. You're right, these tractors are not designed for row-crop applications on a big scale. If the land has not been turned in a long time, the first time will be much more difficult too.
Spot on I used to plough 4" deep with a 4 furrow plough, set up is tricky.
Id agree 4-5 inches. . Trying to plow 9 inches deep id say is pretty much 90% of his issue. He's lucky he ever got it that deep to begin with lol. Had me real concerned at why a decently powerful tractor at 36.7hp couldn't pull till he whipped out the tape measure. He says " 12 inch moldboard you should be able to go 10 inches deep". That's nuts. 12 inch moldboard does 6 inches. 16 inch does 8. 10 inch does 5. They are supposed to plow up to half the cut length in depth and not really any more. My uncle's got a plow like this one and I've hung up his regular big tractors trying to plow 10-12 inches. Usually on a big rock but still. The size and the hst have a little to do with it but I think the main thing is he's just expecting more of a tool than what it's designed for
@EthanPDobbins if you listen to the video, I took a measurement and said it was 9 inches and that I was going to not go so deep on the following passes. I had just as much trouble cutting at 6 inches.
I also explained why the 38 hp wasn’t doing as well as you might expect. First hydrostat, loses a lot of power compared to a gear drive tractor,
second, it’s much smaller than the average 38 hp tractor. Smaller wheels and tires.
Finally, The big one is that it’s only a two range transmission instead of a three range.
That means that you don’t have a true low gear which is what it should be in
@@RockhillfarmYT the hst and lack of a real low range are issues here especially the lack of low range. I think these things are designed mainly for pto attachments thats why they are made to put most of their power into pto. they are not really built with pulling in mind but I'm just saying it still seems to me you're trying to break a boulder with a 9oz hammer. 6inch is all that a 12-inch plow is ever supposed to be doing even with a big regular transmission tractor. With more power or when using single bottom you can make them go deeper but you're not really supposed to. Theoretically yours should be pulling it fine at 6 deep with 2 because it's got 36.7hp should be more than enough to give it the commonly recommended 10hp per bottom or even enough for 1-1 like 12hp per 12 inch bottom but I think with the size and gear limitations you mentioned this thing would do best with a two bottom 10 inch and respect for the depth limit or Since you're trying to use the plow you've already got I would say it's probably still a good idea to stick to 4 to 5 inches. 5 inches is about all the depth a tiller for a mini is gonna go anyways. If you want to plow deeper then removing the rear blade is the way to go then you shouldnt have trouble going 6-7 inches maybe even more. It will take more time but maybe the next year it'll be soft enough to use both.
Howdy Brock! Interesting stuff for sure. I know nothing of larger scale field work, so have no idea what might help. Sounds like you covered most everything and it makes sense. I don't see a whole lot of plowing in my area anymore - most farmers have gone no-till, which has it's own positives and negatives. Nicely done and thanks for sharing 🤠
No till seems to work well when there is enough moisture to keep the ground in good growing condition, once you start to get prolonged months of drought, especially a few years of it like we've had up here. The earth starts to get packed down and growth gets sparce. This effect is amplified if its a pasture with hooved livestock on it continuously packing it down. After you get march april may with 2 MM of rain combined there is not much that will help you grow short of irrigation, though the plow rows at least help stop any water you put on it from just washing off the top and running off without sinking into the ground.
With hydrostatic transmissions, the reason you ease into it is because you generate the most torque when you’re in low gear and barely engage the hydrostatic. It’s the only way my little LX 2610 can pull a full box of gravel up a hill when I’m smoothing out my gravel lane. The most power comes from low gear and feathering the hydrostatic peddle in order to get the most HP and torque to the ground.
Edit: personally I would go with a single bottom plow and save yourself the time. I agree with why you want to plow before you till. It works wonders pulling up vital nutrients to the surface.
When you go to level the plow. It is best to do it on hard flat ground. Or, concrete. Drive both left side front and rear wheels up on the blocking.Then level the plow so that both bottoms are touching the ground equally by raising or lowering the draft arms. They will look off (one up, one down) from the rear of the tractor. Then, level the plow front to rear with the top link.. I am not familiar with your tractor. Can you adjust the draft on it? If so, you can set the depth control and keep it at your plowing depth. A 14" plow should run a max depth of 7". Depth equals half the shear length, Then, when you plow a bit? look to see if your furrow wall is straight and clean. If your landslides are good, it should be straight and clean. If Not? And, the plow is trying to pull the tractor sideways? You may need to extend one of the draft arms to basically turn the plow either to the right or left a bit. If the arms are not adjustable? There may be a way to move the brackets on the plow itself that the arms attach to. The other thing that you mentioned? Coulters. These are generally an option on the plows. The time they very beneficial is when plowing sod. They will cut the sod in front of the plow point. But, in a non-sod type situation? Especially, if there is alot of trash? They tend to plug up often. Some folks put 1 coulter on the rear bottom to help create a clean furrow wall. Having the plow leveled is the way it will pull as easy as possible. Another thing you may want to look at? Look at your shears. Look at the cutting edge. If it is rounded? You can grind a bit off of the underside of the cutting edge to sharpen it up a bit. Make sure you sharpen it according the angle it sits at on the bottom, Ie; when it is on the plow, you want to grind across the bottom of the shear parallel with ground. I know on some hydro tractors, it is possible to increase hydro pressure by adjustment. However, that may void your powertrain warranty. The fact that it isn't spinning out and instead just stalling the hydros? Suggests that it may need adjustment. Or, a 1 bottom plow may be your best. Good Luck
I pull a two bottom plow with a 3025e. It’s all the tractors got to pull it but it handles it fine.
Try extending the top link a couple more inches so the tip of the plow is about an inch off the ground when you are on the blocks. It will not dive as much but will still cut
Seems to work a little better. Maybe adjusting the top link out a few more turns will help a lot. Maybe try 7" deep or so should work even better, and the soil should shine the board right up for u
Happy to see you gaining ground and making improvements. I’d still try the two pass approach, friend of mine does numerous garden’s and a few food plots with a two bottom plow with a L4701 Kubota. It’s what he does… for what it’s worth.. lol
Having to feather your plow is ok , if you were pushing dirt with a dozer and took too big of a bite it would stop the dozer until you feathered the blade on it also. If this is the first time the ground has been plowed it will also pull harder on the tractor! It will take you some trial and error but you will get it I'm sure of it!!
I'd say you're biggest problem is still power. I pull a 3 bottom plow with a 72 hp tractor and I can stall it out in summer. I also found out that faster is better, the dirt flows better.
Late comment.... two things. One, drop a bottom. Two, continue as you are, and it will have no problem pulling it in the same spot next year! Approximately 20 hp per bottom to plow new compacted soil. Your hydro even at 38 hp, is not putting that much horsepower to the wheels.
We use plows in sizes from single bottom in the garden to sixteen bottoms in farm fields. My favorite is the super chief international bottom in the garden to the kverneland or Kuhn in the commercial farm operations, even though I bleed green when cut!😊
Stay with it, it will work out.
Haven’t used it yet but I got a homemade single 16” bottom 3 point plow I could try behind a 1025r. Always wondered if it was too big of a bottom for the little tractor. Since I got few older JD 2 cylinder tractors and plows for them that’s what I use.
I didn’t have much experience with a plow when I started pulling a new to me 3 bottom plow behind a model A it seemed to plow better in 3rd gear than 2nd. It looked to turn over better when I didn’t lower the plow all the way down. Was fun to try and experiment with my tractors and learn a lil more things
I wouldn't worry so much about the rust because the soil will shine the plows. The on thing that I do is sharped the plows from the plow horn to the heel. It does need to be like razor sharp but sharp enough to cut the soil. I seen other videos that people was using Hydrostatic Compact Tractors pulling a two bottom plows with ease. But sharped the plows what to you have to lose. Your right about plowing V rototilling plowing opens the ground for better aeration of the soil and to absorb more nutrients. I know some farmers in my area where I live at here in Missouri has gone back to plowing their fields instead of doing the no-till. So that they can get a higher yield in their crop growth. You can try setting your plans to plow at 6 to 8" deep furrows plow in low gear and full throttle.
My family has pretty much always had a garden and my dad always plowed before tilling although our ground is hard clay and he said that he plowed to make it easier on the tiller because the plow was cheaper to replace than the tiller.
If you have to go super slow and not plow as deep as you want to with your tractor, I don’t see a benefit to try and use a two bottom plow. A single 14 or a single 16 would be a much better option. A lot of people plow one direction and then back up all the way to the beginning to plow again. That takes double the time too. Split your plot in half and roll the dirt to one side, then turn around and roll it the other way. That way you are always plowing from one end to the other, not just one direction. When I plow my garden I roll the dirt all inwards one year, then towards the outside of the garden the next so there isn’t a hump or a ditch in the middle of the garden. That old plow will shine up with time too. Love the videos! Take care!
sods tough as hell to plow through the Coulters the wheel u mentioned would help slice the sod instead of it trying to rip through it. bet if u plowed something thats already been worked it would pull it fine
Around here the only thing a plow like that does is bring up weed seeds. Also you shouldnt go at fresh gorund with a tiller, you should use use a subsoiler then a chisel plow, field cultivator, scarifier, or whatever you call it in your region, then use a tiller. One pass with a tiller wont pulverize the soil too much. Also farmers dont use a tiller because they have tractors and disc harrows heavy enough that does in one pass what it would take multiple passes with a compact tractor to achieve.
A coulter in front of each moldboard would help immensely.
Easy way to explain why you ease into it
Easing into it with a hydrostatic drive is like Easing off the clutch (too much power too quickly can cause damage)
Does that tractor have "Draft Control"? The Draft control would adjust the plow depth as it starts to pull very hard. Lastly, after the first time that the ground is plowed, it should plow easier every time after.
If that tractor had a 3 range transmission like the 3R with the crawl gear, it would've tore that dirt up.
Measuring the wheelbase of a 3R and 2038R shows the 3R is one inch longer and one inch wider at the wheels. It causes the 2R to not make any sense to me as a potential purchase.
Very interesting. I am just a layman interested to learn. I was thinking to get a small tractor to play on my small property, but it is this kind of thing and the huge cost that holds me back.
What is it about your soil that makes the going so hard? I don't see rocks or roots and doesn't seem terribly solid with clay. I do think I see the sod holding it back - making it hesitate. Would it be better after a rain (or worse)?
Anyway, just mechanically speaking: At 20HP deisel tractor could definitely do the job, given sufficient traction and that nothing breaks - it's just the speed at which it can do it. But what is preventing this 40 HP tractor from getting the job done is the hydrostatic drive - I realise on watching. If it were mechanically driven and the gearing were appropriate and if the tires held and nothing tore off or bent - that tractor could do the job without breaking a sweat - if at very moderate rate of speed. But there is something difficient about the design of the hydrostatic drive - it's like it's trying to start out in third gear with a heavy load by trying to slip the clutch (of a manual) - it does not work same as proper gearing. You are triggering the pressure relief of the hydrostatic pump. That tractor was made to look good on he showroom floor - it's just bad design suggest complain to Deere (although that might be like complaining to Boeing about deficient plane design). The difference is that those old tractors with mechanical gearing were properly designed to get work done.
It's not that hydrostatic cant do the job. My wife's new fangle jap car (SUV) has a CVT (hydraulic) transmission. The thing has a little four and the CVT makes it so whatever you are doing and whatever speed you are going, the engine is at the optimum speed/gearing. - the engine never struggles (you wont win races, though it's off the line like a pony car).
You may want to check your hydraulic pressure / hydrostatic drive. The reason I say this is that I have a similar setup but with a larger frame tractor. 35 Hp hydrostatic drive in a Yanmar YT235. similar to a 3 series JD. At 2750 PSI hydraulic pressure I can spin the wheels on my tractor all day. And yes the tires are filled with beet juice etc. So It has more weight and bigger tires, giving more traction that your small frame tractor. As an example, when I get my sub boiler stuck on a big tree root or rock ( I live 30 miles from rocky top Tennessee ) so I have a number crop of rocks every year. So you could say that my place is rockhall farm the original 😊. In low range, way before it bogs the engine down, it will spin all 4 wheels and did for something solid underneath. Your 38 HP tractor should be able spin those wheels with ease in low range before bogging down the drive train. Just my two cents worth and probably worth less than that.
You would be a lot better off with a trailing plow . I've got a Little Genius 2X14 that I pull behind a Mahindra Max 26XL and it works fine. You don't have to worry about the 3 point adjustment, depth and angle adjustments are on the plow frame.
I’ve had pretty much every brand 3 point tiller, yes I make sure I keep up with service on them, eventually they all breakdown, so I have decided no more 3 point tiller’s because they always break when you need them most, so I went old school this year with the older metal equipment, my compact tractor is a compact 33 horsepower tractor, hydrostatic transmission like yours, the only thing left to buy is a plow, found several 2 row plows but I am not sure it can pull a 2 row plow, what is your take on this?, Ty, keep the videos coming
My tiller actuall goes fairly deep. Do not have to disc afterwards. HOWEVER a good deep plow is great for bringing important things back to the surface for crops.
Nice job brock, I thought it was very good video I have a one bottom plow myself
I think filled R1 AG tires would make a huge difference for the traction.
he's not spinning tires just running out of power. changing tires and adding weight won't do anything
If you can disk or run a digger over it 1st will help . Plow only half the depth of the width of the bottom
I'd bet that Paul Case could tell you exactly what tractor would be a good match for that 2 bottom plow.
I'm just going to use a box blade then come back with a rock bucket to bust it up. Buying a plow and a disc was simply to much. I got the box blade I kind of need a rock.bucket so why not lol
You are talking about dropping in 10 in that's way deeper than needed 12 in bottom about 7 in deep furrow also make sure your cutting only 12 in between the first bottom and the inside edge of your right wheel this will help you pull easier and make for a more uniform tillage also look at the geometry of the top link closer to get more uniform furrowing between the front and rear bottom as well as proper offset on your three point lift arms if properly set most small tractors these days have plenty of power to pull a 2 bottom it then just becomes a ballist issue does it whey enough for traction.
No need to shine the Mould boards. They will shine themselves with 30 minutes of breaking. Things that will help you do not have. A gear drive transmission will add about 4 horsepower. Ag tires will help a lot. Tractor weight will also help tremendously.. It is very simple as you say, you just not have enough tractor to pull a Two bottom plow!!!!. Also, my old Dearborn Plow manual says you need to run 4 to 6 mph to get good roll over with your Mould boards.
I'm predicting a "I smoked the hydrostatic drive in my 2038R" video in our near future
Put your bucket on and fill with something weight equals pulling power there's a reason farmers add thousands of pounds to front of their tractor
List weight for my tractor is 2500 pounds. Mine actually what is 5000 because I have added every kind of weight you can add.
Putting weight in the bucket would actually take weight off of the rear of the tractor
weight on the front is primarily to keep the front end on the ground so you can steer which he clearly wasn't having issues with
Not sure you want to do it but can you use just 1 plow ?
Those talking about there 25hp pulling a 2 bottom plow also have to think about gearing, if he had a 3rd slower range it would pull it for sure. Some of these tractors like my Kubota L2850 have such a low 1st gear in low range the dam thing would pull a house if it had the traction.
If your tractor had a manual transmission I bet it would pull better...these hydrostatic transaxles just don't pull like a regular old manual tractor will...keep in mind those older tractors had more weight to them as well, so they'd be able to put the power to the ground more effectively without spinning wheels.
I don't have a plow, I know my tractor wouldn't pull a 2 bottom plow, it would be lucky to pull a single bottom plow, and even that would be a big if it could. I do have a roto-tiller, but I don't garden so not a huge deal for me anyhow.
I would assume that after plowing you'd want to disc that area, at least that's what the farmers do where I live...they plow, then a day or so later they go through the field with a disc...some follow behind the plow with some sort of implement that busts up all the dirt clods and smooths stuff out a bit, then they go over it with a disc....I think that other implement is something called a culti-packer....they sometimes run it after plowing and after discing.
Your tractor has the power to pull that plow, but I think John Deere limited the hydro transmission conservatively to avoid damage/premature wear, on the transmission. I also think they possibly gave that "smaller" tractor "big" horse power to give decent power to run pto powered implements. If it were me,{which it's not} I would try and find a single bottom plow, or an old "cheap" farm tractor to pull that 2 bottom plow, just so I wouldn't overheat the hydro transmission. All of this is MY opinion. I am NO expert, and non of this is meant to be critical. Enjoyed the video.
If it struggles with two plows, then I would not use two plows. I would just use one plow and don't plow as deep the first year. The second year I would plow a little deeper with just one plow. {Breaking up the sod the first year.} There will be less stress on the tractor and on the "farmer". {That's you. A really important person.} Folks mentioned how the plow will polish up on its own by using it, that is true. Most equipment will last longer if you don't push it to its limit. Farmers will also last longer if they are not pushed to their limit. P.S. Farmers are one of the main backbones of this country.
No coulter cutter wheels. Or sway bars ???
Great for trying. Later.
Umm, no, you do not drive all four wheels onto blocks. You only drive the left wheels onto blocks. This is to simulate your right side wheels being in a furrow. Then drop your plow onto the level ground and adjust your top link and lift arm link so that the plow sits level front to back and side to side on the ground. The blocks should be the same height as the plow depth you want to plow. Six inches is deep enough.
You have more than enough horsepower to pull the two bottom plow, the problem is it's a hydrostat. If you had gear drive the tractor would pull the plow easily assuming you have enough weight to get traction, which I think you do.
Your tractor probably doesn't have a true draft control, so one plow modification you might think about for the future is adding an adjustable gauge wheel to the plow mounted to engage the ground about four inches outboard of your rear moldboard.
I suspect a majority of the suggestions I heard are from people who dont own a plow or used one. Angle and hoq much tractor are the biggest factors. I have had a number of larger tractors now own a Kubota L2501, and I plow foodplots with my 2 bottom plow. Believe it or not with better results, but there are ao many variables. I also have sandy, less dense soil. Is it a perfect machine for it? No. But you can fet by. Interesting video and test
Try using a disc or spring harrow
Could you show the results of discing for comparison?
I’ve been looking for a disc but I don’t have one yet
Not an either or deal. You need both for certain situations.
Rock. Try it in 2 wheel drive.
That hp info other people are telling you is not quite right. Old timers never talked about engine hp, all they cared about was drawbar hp and PTO. The engine hp is always greater than those two, but the manufacturers figured out over time that tractors sound a lot bigger and more attractive when you advertise the the engine hp as opposed to drawbar. That said, your 2038 probably has about the same drawbar hp as an 8N. Main performance difference reasons that come to mind are 1) your tires are not r1 ag tires that would give you much better traction than the r4 style tires, and 2) wheel base is a lot narrower - 8N was a row crop tractor with a wider base and probably lower to the ground. I’d suspect there’s also a torque issue with your being a hydrostatic but I’m enough of a gear head to really know.
Imho for a hobby garden 6 to 8” depth is enough
Sounds like the story of my life... Plowing 9 inches deep 😂🤣😂
Captain I know you said you can do this all day, but you’re tractor said dude stop.
I’m pretty sure that size tractor in gear drive would have no problem.
bet your johnny popper would pull that plow just fine
put gage wheel injoy plowing working with thim 65 year used one plow 6 16
Maybe just run a single Plow. I have a old 1946 2n ford. Pulls the plow no problem.
i really don't see those hydrostatic drives lasting long term doing those kinds of task. gear drive works best.
you did the best that you could. bottom line your tractor is running at max with that two bottom plow..... this is why hydro tractors fail to shine with a load like this. I think a 8n ford would handle that load better
Whilst I suspect you may be right about the tractor, looking at the result of your ploughing, I think you would benefit with the help of an experienced ploughman to show you how to set up the plough
A Ford 3000 basically 30 hp will tractor will pull a 2 row turning plow. After a few rows the soil will take the rust off.😮😮😅
Yes. It can.
Level plow for first pass the after you are in the cut relevel for the rest
Cutting in grass is hard but next time in dirt won"t be as hard
ya never plowed over 6 to 8 inchs max....if it was me..i would cut the back bottom off and put less stress on the tractor
You did your setup completely wrong. Moldboard plows are designed to work best at half the width of the moldboard. IE, 2x12" would be best at 6" depth, 2x14" 7" depth, etc. Once you know how deep your going, set the non furrow side of the tractor up on that thickness of blocks, and completely level the plow front to back, and side to side. Also, make sure the trailing edge of the lead moldboard is just inside the rear furrow tire track. Coulters should be 1/2" away from the cutting edges of the moldboards.
Everything you said is spot on sir. Only mistake is that it is the plowshare size not the moldboard. Your advice on adjustment was perfect.
Make it a 1 bottom and be done with it.
🙂
And when your done plowing, get motorcycle chain grease and spray on them and after two passes, they shine right up
Brock, ignore and or block the clown that suggested polish the blade. Probably the worst advice ever
get an old ford or john deere to use for those kinds of task...problem solved.
That is a dark ages plow, spend a couple of dollars more and get some rolling coulters on a plow and for God's sake get some rust removal
I’m used to being criticized because all my equipment is brand new and expensive. I try to use one used implement…
Hydra stat not much good for anything not made for pulling for sure
👀
That's embarrassing
Waste of time. You ignored at least two good suggestions. Single bottom. And getting a coulter.
Posting this video is not about me getting the ground plowed. It’s about answering a question. Can the 2038r pull two bottom plow.
I’m confident it can pull a one bottom plow. Doing that solves no problem for the viewer.
If I just wanted this ready to plant, I’d run my tiller over it.
A lot of people are wanting to avoid spending the money on a tiller, and would like to be able to plow with a little little tractor like this
Get to the point
Add the Colter to the plow that cut the soil asyou go along , almost all plows came with them and , I plowed many tobacco fields with Mf. 35 about 40 hp at flywheel, but weight was 3500 lbs
You want the back plow turning same sod as the front
They make the cutters, they clamp on so most plows came with them
And a good rule thumb is ,6,7 inches deep don't need much more than that
Yes plows need be flatter