Check out this field getting plowed: ruclips.net/video/sMpNlu8yt1Q/видео.html Tractor grill guard: lownperformance.com/ Discount Code: TractorHard5 Seeds for the field provided by: coastalseedsllc.com/ Products in our Amazon store used in this video (costs nothing extra to use these links!). You don't have to buy these specific items to support our channel....just use a link below to get to Amazon then make any purchase: Proven Industries Trailer Lock: amzn.to/3WVzytv Frost Free Hydrant: amzn.to/433s3De Flex Tape: amzn.to/3R4MdWm Mechanix Leather Gloves: amzn.to/3HjoZZf Titan Post Hole Auger: amzn.to/3toHEx2 Ratcheting Fence Tensioner: amzn.to/3aEfSX0 Pope and Pipe Level: amzn.to/3tqUhHX Fence Post Puller: amzn.to/3QbcNhy T Post Manual driver: amzn.to/39dwt3J Come Along Winch: amzn.to/3aQMqND Clip bending tool: amzn.to/3xlqrG0 Mechanix Leather Gloves: amzn.to/3HjoZZf 6’ Digging and Pry bar: amzn.to/3vH5Agx Dewalt 20V ½” Impact Wrench: amzn.to/3UOcXNH Dewalt 20V brushless Leaf blower: amzn.to/3zwJcYm Dewalt 20V brushless ½” drill: amzn.to/3HGXJ7z
I’m an armchair farmer, whatever that is. I stumbled onto your channel and truly enjoyed it. You are very informative for us wannabes. At 76 I don’t have a lot of time to learn by trial and error. Thanks for some information that may be obvious to some, but I found it informative. I suppose I’m more of a tractor collector than “farming”, small acreage but way too many tractors. Fun stuff and it seems to keep me active.
I've farmed for 40yrs and still do it the way my father taught me and how his father taught him. Never used a tiller as they are hard on the tractor especially if you run up on something solid. Discing has always worked just fine. Burning the garden in the winter and discing that in helps add to the soil. It's important to plow and disc in the winter so the leftover plants and needs have time to decompose. The trick to discing is to do it when it's very dry. If the soil has any significant amount of water in it you'll create dirt clods of which will turn hard as pottery when they bake in the sun. Once they're baked hard it's very difficult to get them back sifted dirt, if you disc it enough you can turn them into marbles but that's still not ideal. So picking a time when it's been weeks without rain is ideal as discing will give you a better result without the initial purchase expense or risk of pto damage that a tiller can cause. Now if money isn't a concern and you know the area you're preparing is free of things that can bind a tiller then by all means till your heart out. I would enjoy having one and since our garden areas are over a hundred years old, I would have the danger of binding it. But as an example my kubota that we've had since 85' with only a water pump change, has become a permanent 3pt forklift tractor because of a low side pto gear becoming damaged while bushogging. The repair involves splitting the tractor and the parts are Rolls-Royce high, so it will spend it's remaining days without pto use. For the OP of this video, I'd contact a company in Poland and get you a delete kit for that smog junk. Those things are why used tractor prices have gone up. I have a 76'IH, and a 82'Kubota, that I use mostly with only a few hundred dollars in repairs over the years taking care of 80 acres, and a 2009 Kubota 30hp cab compact tractor I use to mow and garden with. Old tractors are a great thing to have around to do things you don't want to risk doing in a modern tractor that you paid a small fortune for. Keep pushing those diesels and wearing granny beads!!🙂
i am a newbee with 5 acres that I would like to work. I am on a budget and am considering getting a Ford 2000 tractor. Do you have any advice you would be willing to offer me?
@@narcissistinjurygiver2932 the Ford 2000 is a good tractor for a small farm. I would prefer it to have the diesel engine and power steering would be nice too. Depending on the price and what you plan on doing with it I'm sure it would suit you just fine.
Disc have another advantage . They dont creat hardpan like tillers do . Any plow that consistently dig to an exact depth create a barrier for roots past that point . Lining up thin disc to exactly hit the same lines is impossible year after year and the spaces in between still give roots access to the deeper subsoil in any given year ...
I enjoy you programs. I own a small farm in South Carolina. The soil is a mix of brown top soil and blue clay. I use a harrow to break up the soil. I have owned tractors for 20 plus years. Fords and Massey's all gear ...I bought a 40 hp Compact spring of 2022 with the hydrostatic drive....the tractor was nice but it is not suited for ground work....your Kubota is noisy at wide open throttle. The hydrostatic compact tractors have better uses than ground work. I sold the Massey 2023 and bought a Mahindra eight speed gear drive. Not promoting mahindra. Promoting gear drive over hydrostatic for farm ground work.
Agree that hydro is noisy, but there are many models of agricultural tractors with 70+ hp with hydro. Look at the John Deere 5075M. In the 80s, we were using grain combines with hydro. Kubota puts in their operators manual that it can pull a 2 bottom plow. I just used a shuttle shift John Deere for a week.....sure missed my hydro! Thanks for watching.
I want the Massey Ferguson 2606h and I'm considering it over the Kubota tractor with the same amount of horsepower. Would you recommend Massey Ferguson as a good reliable tractor to buy?
@@MrJwh3000 I don't know anything about them - good or bad. I would look around for a forum and see what other owners have to say. Here's one: www.mytractorforum.com/forums/massey-ferguson.184/
I've been using a 3616 gear tractor for going on 9 years now and just spent all weekend cleaning up a property I have and cutting in atv trails. Today I was blown away with how much I've enjoyed this tractor.
A tip my grandfather taught me about keeping weeds down which he learned from his father was to start cultivating early and disk or till the soil about every 2 weeks for at least 6 weeks. It will put you a little behind in planting but by letting the weed seed germinate and then killing them, it keeps them from coming back at all. It's not fool proof but the fuel to run the tractor is cheaper than the chemicals and you don't have to worry about the fuel ending up in your well and killing you, at least not any more than everyone else.
We planted a seed bearing bush for dove years ago. Realized they were invasive and pulled them out by the roots. Every year, we pull out every plant we see and never let one mature and go to seed. Yet every year, new ones pop up!! Nature stores decades of seed in her seedbank!
This is a wonderful video! The information comes at you fast, but it's fascinating and captivating. Loved the comparison of the soil from the different disks. Thanks much!
The farm fields where I live are just disc tilled, and then planted. Seems to work just fine for them....most people roto-till a garden, and I was told that you should plow occasionally to prevent having hardpan, but I'm not sure where that would make much sense as you can only plow so deep as well...I guess you would just have hardpan deeper in the ground from plowing VS roto-tilling. I have the reverse rotation tiller for my tractor, it really breaks up the dirt clods and leaves a very nice finished surface. The nice thing with the reverse rotation is it will generally pull itself down into the ground where the forward rotation tills will tend to skip across hard packed ground.
we have 6' top soil, no hardpan. it all depends on the rain fall expected, soil humus levels, etc. seed to soil is better if you roll it after planting, cultipacker
Hardpan?? What’s that? Is that when the surface ground gets rock hard and the water sucks at soaking down into it?? I’ve noticed that a lot since starting gardening. How do you keep the ground from doing that? It’s annoying the water just flows over the surface and takes 17 years to soak into the ground and even then it seems to not soak through deep at all
We always go 3 passes with the disc. 1st pass is the same direction as what we will sow seed. 2nd pass is diagonal. 3rd pass is 90 degrees of the 1st pass. That way we get some leveling and there are no lines in the field to confuse the line left by the drill marker.
This is what you call a RUclips farmer handing out someone else's knowledge as though it were his own through experience. I grew up farming so I know the difference. Nice people either way.
you hit the nail on the head here...i can smell people like this a mile away. Seems like a nice guy, but its very easy to tell that he is regurgitating other peoples experience as if it were his own.
I have a small farm in the Georgia Coastal plain and for soils I have a mixture of sand and sand 😂. I have been plant food plots in the fall and cover crops in the spring. I use my harrow to prepare them I haven't tried my tiller on any of the food plots but I think I will this fall.
In the 17 years we've lived on our current property (Upstate NY) I have never raised dust when tilling. Usually I am waiting for the soil to dry out enough that I do not sink and bog down. (And lose my gumboots when tilling with a Troy Built Horse). Glacial sill and clay. No vertical drainage. But I've been looking at discs for deer feed plots and maybe corn in a portion of our former sheep pasture.
For sure. NY is nothing like most of the country. I've been to 50 states, only up in NY in Spring, did I see conditions so extremely wet/freeze/thaw issues.
Great video Brad. I have a bit more than 5 acres I'd like to level out and smooth out. It presently has grass and I'm not going to plant crops. If I use a tiller, will I need to re-seed grass or just till it and wait for it to re-grow?
If you want a pure pasture, you will have to reseed to have a good stand of the grass you want. If you don't care what nature grows, then level it and just cut what grows up! We're repairing our pasture in this video: ruclips.net/video/Il2JmYsXRBM/видео.html
Thanks for the excellent video. I have a mini storage property with an acre of grassy area that I would like to rid the grass and lay gravel for uncovered parking storage. Do you think using a disc harrow would be best, then cover with gravel? Or rotary tiller needed? Thanks
I remember riding the foot plate of his Farmall H when he harrowed his fields. He harrowed three times before planting. The dirt would be like silk in your hand.
If you are mostly doing garden beds vs large field work, I highly recommend the spader….the tines drive vertically vs rotary and can achieve the work of both the plow and the tiller…it incorporates organic matter deep in the soil profile and breaks up the hard pan. It also preserves the soil structure better and doesn’t invert it like a rotary tiller will. I farm in Georgia with heavy clay soil, and over the years Ive increased my soil depth from about 4” to 18” with a spader.
I looked up a spader...that's a cool machine! Don' thing our tractors can run it though. Here's another video of this field. ruclips.net/video/H1hlaK1h7a4/видео.html
A rototiller does a great job but the main disadvantage is what happens after a rain if you get the soil too fine and smooth. The harrowed field will be just fine after a rain but the rototillered field will be like concrete and the plants have trouble breaking through the hard crust. The rototiller will be OK if you only make one pass and don't go too slow.
Bobcat1…. Your advice is right on. I rototill only when soil is not too dry so it doesn’t pulverize it into a powder. Like you said, don’t move too slow and over work it. I leaned these lessons the hard way.
you got that kubota hst whine... alot is caused by using udt instead of sudt. my dealership got very butt hurt when i told them they put the wrong fluid in; i made the swap and very little whine once warmed up.
One misconception - hard work is actually very good for a diesel tractor, or any diesel engined vehicle. If you give them light work, such as running a wood saw or similar, they can suffer from bore glazing. So when you hear the engine bogging down and really working it’s no bad thing at all
I have used both but on a larger scale.I used a 15ft double offset harrow with notched blades on the front gangs and smooth blades on the rear,both set at 9 inches.This works very well at breaking ground and busting the clouds into a smooth planting surface.I have also used a roto tiller for finishing but find it to slow.I actually prefer to finish with a culti mulcher,but I understand that you are working with compact tractors,and such equipment is not suitable.
Rotytillers work better when you're dealing with slopes, especially spader types that push the tractor forward. My favorite rototiller was an "on-land" 4 wheel that had two free turn narrow wheels in front and two broad floaters on the back and two rotors with its own engine. Custom but if you've got a small tractor then getting a trailed implement lifter and installing a powerpack on it can make a huge difference when doing rototilling spreading etc.
I have a 45 hp New Holland Boomer. When it is doing its regen cycle, I can do any kind of tractor work at the same time. No loss in output power. I just need to leave the engine running at higher rpms for some tasks than I usually use. The manual recommends not working in tall grass as the exhaust system gets very hot during the regen. I suggest you check your manual. Your tractor might be different but diesel engine emissions dont change by tractor brand.
Yes, the Kubota can be run during the regen cycle, but if you are done with your work and it's not done with the cycle, it just sits there and burns fuel. There is a parked regen cycle where you cannot use the machine, but I haven't gone through that one yet.
Are you sure the top hole for the top link is for heavier pulling ground equipment? I was taught the opposite, the bottom hole is for the heavier pulling ground equipment.
From a tractor manual: · For light and medium draft loads: Install center link (A) in bottom hole (B) of mounting bracket. Example of light and medium draft load implements would include a landscape rake. · For medium and heavy draft loads: Install center link in middle hole (C) of mounting bracket. Example of medium and heavy draft load implements would include a tiller or box blade. · For very heavy draft loads: Install center link in top hole (D) of mounting bracket. Example of very heavy draft load implements would include a plow or ripper.
@@PineyGroveHomestead my tractor is a ford 6600 and it says the exact opposite in my operators Manuel. figure 28 has three holes for attaching the upper link. attach the link in the top hole for light draft loads such as cultivating. attach the link in the center hole for heavier loads, such as plowing. attach the link in the bottom hole for very heavy draft loads, such as sub-soiling.
@@PineyGroveHomestead I personally figured it was about how much leverage is asserted upon your hydraulic, that is why the bottom makes more sense to me for heavier work . what make and model is your tractor?
@@PineyGroveHomestead Ive been reading further into it and it seems to me that it is specific to make and model of tractor, weather or not the heavy pulling hole is the top or bottom hole used.
We plant in late October/Early November, using wheat, rye, oats, clover and chicory. Here are some of our food plot videos: ruclips.net/p/PLG5yS75HLzo3B_kuSLkG7zUbMJ22vw4GS
I purchased the pro King Kutter, setting on the floor, I noticed when level the tines are only 1-1/2” below the skids on the ends. That’s with the skids all the way up. I don’t know how you can till 6” or 7” deep like they say.
yep, take em off, double pass, back into hardpan if needed...take another pass, 6" all day (and i mean all day, it took all day on a half acre ) @@PineyGroveHomestead
@PineyGroveHomestead Yes, they are. I have used bottom plows and disc harrows for years. Got a 5' tiller a few years ago and really liked how much better my seedbeds were.
The tiller does leave a smooth surface, but I wonder how much of that is simply the back door dragging. Why has no one welded on some kind of 'back door' or drag bar or drag screen, for a disc harrow? I wonder what difference that makes.
Maybe not in Florida but in NC the County Ag people have no till grain drill they let you use and charge you by the acre. I understand they are not expensive to use per acre
I agree that can be frustrating but my regen cycles only seem to be about 10 minutes in length. Usually I can find a bit more tractor work to do for this time so Im still doing some productive work. " I cant stop working with the tractor because its doing a regen cycle" gives me more seat time, when I should be doing something else, that doesnt need a tractor. I tried the parked regen process once, leaving the tractor running through lunch. It worked, and shut down itself when the cycle was over., but it seemed wasteful of fuel to me. I talked to a farmer about it and he said its great when you are cutting tall grass hay and cant cut during regen. You can leave the tractor parked out of the uncut hay, and it will run while you can go do something else. His slightly older tractor required him to sit on the tractor and babysit its entire regen cycle, wasting his time and fuel.
@@PineyGroveHomestead the reason why I mentioned International Harvester pull behind disc, is, these were some of the best disc's out there. No tools are needed for adjustments on both front and rear gangs out in the field. They are worth the money to repair. I do have a 5' 3pt disc it's good but the IH IS GREAT. Take care
In today's episode, THREE different ways to kill your soil biota, dramatically increase erosion, and ensure a complete crop failure if you have just a couple weeks of drought. Seriously, you don't need to do any of these things to plant and grow a wildlife food plot. Tens of thousands of people are using a no-till approach that costs less, takes less time, and most importanly, doesn't destroy your soil just before asking it to grow something for you.
@@PineyGroveHomestead - Do some research into the damage done by conventional tillage. Read the book, "Dirt to Soil", by Gabe Brown. I understand your desire to plant plots but there's a much better way to go about all of this.
If you no till, you MUST use chemicals... no way around it. I prefer conventional tillage as it reduces weeds/grass, incorporates oxygen into the soil which allows for increased microbial activity and incorporates organic matter into the root zone. This allows for greater moisture retention in that zone rather than shallow rooting in the top 4” in a no till field. Minimum tillage on slopes.
@@zebwalton979 - Every single one of those assertions is disproven by those actually practicing no-till planting methods. Unless you know more than Gabe Brown or Dr. Grant Woods, both of whom have the exact opposite position than you on every one of those claims?
I bet you are one of those that drink almond milk. A product mixed in a barrel of chemicals it doesn't have any almonds in it. Or one of the other fake milks made out of water and chemicals
1. He clearly said it was a forage soybean, so it’s for animal consumption, probably pigs. 2. You 100% will have eaten a crop that has had roundup sprayed on it, and probably do so regularly.
You are wrong about diesels not liking to be 'bogged' down. (within reasonable amount - they like to be worked) They need to be worked... otherwise they go into... regen more often. If you want the disc to be flat, drag something behind the disc... chain link fence, 4x4 posts, etc.
You should learn about the relationship and the symbiose between the living organisms in the soil and the plants, to understand that tilling your soil means destroying its fertility.
@@PineyGroveHomestead Do nature till the soil? Yet it grows. To sow the seeds, you can broadcast or use a seeder for greater efficiency. There are more and more commercial gardener that do not till anymore and they still grow vegetables.
Just chisel plow it, then roto till, gotta disk the soybeans or corn in if you don't have a row seeder, we plant radish and lettuce in the late summer,deer love it
The planting video is coming up soon. We have a foodplot playlists that shows how we plant without rows: ruclips.net/p/PLG5yS75HLzo3B_kuSLkG7zUbMJ22vw4GS
I agree with AJP, l like primary plowing with chisel so you don’t have dead furrows like the moulboard leaves. Then till with a good heavy tiller like a Howard. One pass does the work of 3-4 or more passes with a disc, and that saves a lot of compaction down below that all those passes cause.
Check with the county farm agent. Some of them have smaller no till drills that you can rent very reasonably To mix better with just the disk you cross cut.
So what your saying out loud is that you plan on drenching your crop field with round up, the same field you plan to grow food for human consumption in? That just sounds so wrong to me.
lol i wonder how big companies like monsanto convince people that they’re not the ones creating the disease and selling the so called cure. actually so if not for companies like monsanto we’d be able to eat vegetables and fruits without forever chemicals being on them.
@shredpow certain plants are made to digest the chemical they can break it down and digest it and waste it plants that can't do that absorb the chemical and it kills them leaving it inside the plant. Usually nature breaks down the plants and manages any tiny amount of chemical that would remain in that plant however when farmers use round up to terminate a crop at the end of its life cycle we get glyphosate in the products that we consume. The reason they do this is to make the crop all die at the same time so harvest is fast and easy I farm I think this is crap and shouldn't be legal. As far as contact with chemical there's no evidence that Roundup causes all theese cancers and whatnot that they say it causes on the lawsuit ads. The truth is they don't know what causeses theese cancers or diseases and round up is an easy scape goat round up is actually one of the safest chemicals used in agriculture most of the other are far worse some even directly linked to things like brain degeneration and they even say it on the box nobody talks about those chemicals tho one of them they are trying to get reapproved for sale in the us right now.
Sorry but you are deceived... the smooth, fine soil left by the tiller will dry out much faster than any other method, and will Compact under the rain, destroying aeration. Those "clods" you don't prefer are where the precious moisture hides in the sun, AND acts to direct rain into the soil, keeping the top most layer from complete saturation and hence compaction ~
I'm just an average guy, I don't care about the environment as much as I should maybe but anytime I hear glyphosate or roundup I run the other way no matter how efficient it is. Asbestos is efficient too.
Dude can you try not being a douche? He’s explaining stuff, ya know. With words? Do people can understand what point he’s getting through in this demonstration? If ya don’t like it then skip on
Check out this field getting plowed: ruclips.net/video/sMpNlu8yt1Q/видео.html
Tractor grill guard: lownperformance.com/ Discount Code: TractorHard5
Seeds for the field provided by: coastalseedsllc.com/
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I’m an armchair farmer, whatever that is. I stumbled onto your channel and truly enjoyed it. You are very informative for us wannabes. At 76 I don’t have a lot of time to learn by trial and error. Thanks for some information that may be obvious to some, but I found it informative. I suppose I’m more of a tractor collector than “farming”, small acreage but way too many tractors. Fun stuff and it seems to keep me active.
Active....that's what is important. Thanks for joining us!
Disc 1st, till 2nd. You showed me exactly what i needed to see.
Glad it was helpful. More tractor videos in this playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLG5yS75HLzo3RVqEuA0f6IioXV6FtFhHW
Exactly. There's a good chance you will break a tiller on un-disks land.
@PineyGroveHomestead I have fresh ground but no plow but i have box blade. Would you say 1. boxplade with scarifiers, 2. Disc, 3. Till?
@@stewartwaters1778please see reply
I've farmed for 40yrs and still do it the way my father taught me and how his father taught him. Never used a tiller as they are hard on the tractor especially if you run up on something solid. Discing has always worked just fine. Burning the garden in the winter and discing that in helps add to the soil. It's important to plow and disc in the winter so the leftover plants and needs have time to decompose. The trick to discing is to do it when it's very dry. If the soil has any significant amount of water in it you'll create dirt clods of which will turn hard as pottery when they bake in the sun. Once they're baked hard it's very difficult to get them back sifted dirt, if you disc it enough you can turn them into marbles but that's still not ideal. So picking a time when it's been weeks without rain is ideal as discing will give you a better result without the initial purchase expense or risk of pto damage that a tiller can cause. Now if money isn't a concern and you know the area you're preparing is free of things that can bind a tiller then by all means till your heart out. I would enjoy having one and since our garden areas are over a hundred years old, I would have the danger of binding it. But as an example my kubota that we've had since 85' with only a water pump change, has become a permanent 3pt forklift tractor because of a low side pto gear becoming damaged while bushogging. The repair involves splitting the tractor and the parts are Rolls-Royce high, so it will spend it's remaining days without pto use. For the OP of this video, I'd contact a company in Poland and get you a delete kit for that smog junk. Those things are why used tractor prices have gone up. I have a 76'IH, and a 82'Kubota, that I use mostly with only a few hundred dollars in repairs over the years taking care of 80 acres, and a 2009 Kubota 30hp cab compact tractor I use to mow and garden with. Old tractors are a great thing to have around to do things you don't want to risk doing in a modern tractor that you paid a small fortune for. Keep pushing those diesels and wearing granny beads!!🙂
discing in the winter, must have a light winter. Cool info I might use some of it
i am a newbee with 5 acres that I would like to work. I am on a budget and am considering getting a Ford 2000 tractor. Do you have any advice you would be willing to offer me?
@@narcissistinjurygiver2932 the Ford 2000 is a good tractor for a small farm. I would prefer it to have the diesel engine and power steering would be nice too. Depending on the price and what you plan on doing with it I'm sure it would suit you just fine.
Disc have another advantage . They dont creat hardpan like tillers do . Any plow that consistently dig to an exact depth create a barrier for roots past that point . Lining up thin disc to exactly hit the same lines is impossible year after year and the spaces in
between still give roots access to the deeper subsoil in any given year ...
Masterclass right here .Thank you
I enjoy you programs. I own a small farm in South Carolina. The soil is a mix of brown top soil and blue clay. I use a harrow to break up the soil. I have owned tractors for 20 plus years. Fords and Massey's all gear ...I bought a 40 hp Compact spring of 2022 with the hydrostatic drive....the tractor was nice but it is not suited for ground work....your Kubota is noisy at wide open throttle. The hydrostatic compact tractors have better uses than ground work. I sold the Massey 2023 and bought a Mahindra eight speed gear drive. Not promoting mahindra. Promoting gear drive over hydrostatic for farm ground work.
Agree that hydro is noisy, but there are many models of agricultural tractors with 70+ hp with hydro. Look at the John Deere 5075M. In the 80s, we were using grain combines with hydro. Kubota puts in their operators manual that it can pull a 2 bottom plow. I just used a shuttle shift John Deere for a week.....sure missed my hydro! Thanks for watching.
I want the Massey Ferguson 2606h and I'm considering it over the Kubota tractor with the same amount of horsepower. Would you recommend Massey Ferguson as a good reliable tractor to buy?
@@MrJwh3000 I don't know anything about them - good or bad. I would look around for a forum and see what other owners have to say. Here's one: www.mytractorforum.com/forums/massey-ferguson.184/
Agree with hydro on tillage. Also, I do really like Mahindra tractors!!
I've been using a 3616 gear tractor for going on 9 years now and just spent all weekend cleaning up a property I have and cutting in atv trails. Today I was blown away with how much I've enjoyed this tractor.
🌻🌼.. Extra-Special Demonstration .. You're One of The Very Best "Unpretentious Farming Educators" on RUclips .. 🌺🌾
Thank you for the kind words!
A tip my grandfather taught me about keeping weeds down which he learned from his father was to start cultivating early and disk or till the soil about every 2 weeks for at least 6 weeks. It will put you a little behind in planting but by letting the weed seed germinate and then killing them, it keeps them from coming back at all. It's not fool proof but the fuel to run the tractor is cheaper than the chemicals and you don't have to worry about the fuel ending up in your well and killing you, at least not any more than everyone else.
We planted a seed bearing bush for dove years ago. Realized they were invasive and pulled them out by the roots. Every year, we pull out every plant we see and never let one mature and go to seed. Yet every year, new ones pop up!! Nature stores decades of seed in her seedbank!
Great idea to keep those toxic bigag chemicals out of soil… and ground water.
This is a wonderful video! The information comes at you fast, but it's fascinating and captivating. Loved the comparison of the soil from the different disks. Thanks much!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for all the effort you put in to sharing your knowledge and setting up all the camera angles!
Thank you. We try to make our videos interesting. We get off the tractor a lot to move the camera!
I really like this video, Very informative. You can speak clearly and explain everything with detail.
Appreciate the kind words. Thanks for watching.
The farm fields where I live are just disc tilled, and then planted. Seems to work just fine for them....most people roto-till a garden, and I was told that you should plow occasionally to prevent having hardpan, but I'm not sure where that would make much sense as you can only plow so deep as well...I guess you would just have hardpan deeper in the ground from plowing VS roto-tilling.
I have the reverse rotation tiller for my tractor, it really breaks up the dirt clods and leaves a very nice finished surface. The nice thing with the reverse rotation is it will generally pull itself down into the ground where the forward rotation tills will tend to skip across hard packed ground.
We have a single shank subsoiler that we will use next year. Here's our plow video: ruclips.net/video/sMpNlu8yt1Q/видео.html Thanks for watching!
I pulled a Single shank subsoiler 16-18" in pasture ground
@@richardlandsteiner3082 I've got one of them I will try in this field this fall.
we have 6' top soil, no hardpan. it all depends on the rain fall expected, soil humus levels, etc. seed to soil is better if you roll it after planting, cultipacker
Hardpan?? What’s that? Is that when the surface ground gets rock hard and the water sucks at soaking down into it?? I’ve noticed that a lot since starting gardening. How do you keep the ground from doing that? It’s annoying the water just flows over the surface and takes 17 years to soak into the ground and even then it seems to not soak through deep at all
We always go 3 passes with the disc. 1st pass is the same direction as what we will sow seed. 2nd pass is diagonal. 3rd pass is 90 degrees of the 1st pass.
That way we get some leveling and there are no lines in the field to confuse the line left by the drill marker.
This is the perfect level of detail and excellent pacing
Thank you very much!
love your video, following from Puerto Rico, this year I am retiring as a engineer to enjoy my 7 acres flat land, I am learning with you...
Really clear and helpful explanations of the the process of using a disk. I've always just used a rototiller so I learned a lot. Thanks!
This is what you call a RUclips farmer handing out someone else's knowledge as though it were his own through experience. I grew up farming so I know the difference. Nice people either way.
Watch our videos...I grew up on a farm before I joined the Air Force for 21 years.
you hit the nail on the head here...i can smell people like this a mile away. Seems like a nice guy, but its very easy to tell that he is regurgitating other peoples experience as if it were his own.
You 2 clowns must not get invited to many parties. Hard to get those big heads in the door. Geez!
I have a small farm in the Georgia Coastal plain and for soils I have a mixture of sand and sand 😂. I have been plant food plots in the fall and cover crops in the spring. I use my harrow to prepare them I haven't tried my tiller on any of the food plots but I think I will this fall.
Thanks for watching. We switched to tiller for all our food plots. We have a playlist on them here: ruclips.net/p/PLG5yS75HLzo3B_kuSLkG7zUbMJ22vw4GS
Roundup ready ? 😢
Great comparison! That is a well prepped field.
You should see it now.....beans are looking good!
In the 17 years we've lived on our current property (Upstate NY) I have never raised dust when tilling. Usually I am waiting for the soil to dry out enough that I do not sink and bog down. (And lose my gumboots when tilling with a Troy Built Horse). Glacial sill and clay. No vertical drainage. But I've been looking at discs for deer feed plots and maybe corn in a portion of our former sheep pasture.
We don't have wet areas on our place like that but I know what you mean!
For sure. NY is nothing like most of the country. I've been to 50 states, only up in NY in Spring, did I see conditions so extremely wet/freeze/thaw issues.
Great video Brad. I have a bit more than 5 acres I'd like to level out and smooth out. It presently has grass and I'm not going to plant crops. If I use a tiller, will I need to re-seed grass or just till it and wait for it to re-grow?
If you want a pure pasture, you will have to reseed to have a good stand of the grass you want. If you don't care what nature grows, then level it and just cut what grows up! We're repairing our pasture in this video: ruclips.net/video/Il2JmYsXRBM/видео.html
Not a Farmer , but this video was informative and enjoyable to watch...
Thanks. Here is the plowing video: ruclips.net/video/sMpNlu8yt1Q/видео.html
Thanks for the excellent video.
I have a mini storage property with an acre of grassy area that I would like to rid the grass and lay gravel for uncovered parking storage. Do you think using a disc harrow would be best, then cover with gravel? Or rotary tiller needed? Thanks
Glad it was helpful! You want to remove any organics and have a good base. Check out this video: ruclips.net/video/Y3eNXzum-uQ/видео.html
@ Thanks, I appreciate the reply.
Great content and info. Love this channel and the work being done!
I remember riding the foot plate of his Farmall H when he harrowed his fields. He harrowed three times before planting. The dirt would be like silk in your hand.
Good times!
Rewatched! Your videos are always interesting and informational! Thanks for sharing, great content!
Awesome! Thank you!
If you are mostly doing garden beds vs large field work, I highly recommend the spader….the tines drive vertically vs rotary and can achieve the work of both the plow and the tiller…it incorporates organic matter deep in the soil profile and breaks up the hard pan. It also preserves the soil structure better and doesn’t invert it like a rotary tiller will. I farm in Georgia with heavy clay soil, and over the years Ive increased my soil depth from about 4” to 18” with a spader.
I looked up a spader...that's a cool machine! Don' thing our tractors can run it though. Here's another video of this field. ruclips.net/video/H1hlaK1h7a4/видео.html
Thanks for the great info. Cheers from Tasmania
Thanks! Here's an updated video. ruclips.net/video/fvXV4LN9rfk/видео.html
A rototiller does a great job but the main disadvantage is what happens after a rain if you get the soil too fine and smooth. The harrowed field will be just fine after a rain but the rototillered field will be like concrete and the plants have trouble breaking through the hard crust. The rototiller will be OK if you only make one pass and don't go too slow.
This is a video of the soybeans grown in this field last year: ruclips.net/video/EkQjTMtfs5s/видео.html
Bobcat1…. Your advice is right on. I rototill only when soil is not too dry so it doesn’t pulverize it into a powder. Like you said, don’t move too slow and over work it. I leaned these lessons the hard way.
Be good to your little tractor, raise the disk get to speed then lower it. Old farmer George.
Good advice. Sandy soil in Florida, it can dig deep and bog down.
you got that kubota hst whine... alot is caused by using udt instead of sudt. my dealership got very butt hurt when i told them they put the wrong fluid in; i made the swap and very little whine once warmed up.
It is loud!
Best bet is probobly using the disc to break up the big clods and then use the roto tiller for final tillage for a smooth seedbed
1 - 2 punch! I like it. Thanks for watching.
One misconception - hard work is actually very good for a diesel tractor, or any diesel engined vehicle. If you give them light work, such as running a wood saw or similar, they can suffer from bore glazing. So when you hear the engine bogging down and really working it’s no bad thing at all
I have used both but on a larger scale.I used a 15ft double offset harrow with notched blades on the front gangs and smooth blades on the rear,both set at 9 inches.This works very well at breaking ground and busting the clouds into a smooth planting surface.I have also used a roto tiller for finishing but find it to slow.I actually prefer to finish with a culti mulcher,but I understand that you are working with compact tractors,and such equipment is not suitable.
Cultipacker after the disc is the cats pajamas. Looks great btw!
Here's a video where we cultipacked: ruclips.net/video/lB4amkP11gA/видео.html
Rotytillers work better when you're dealing with slopes, especially spader types that push the tractor forward. My favorite rototiller was an "on-land" 4 wheel that had two free turn narrow wheels in front and two broad floaters on the back and two rotors with its own engine. Custom but if you've got a small tractor then getting a trailed implement lifter and installing a powerpack on it can make a huge difference when doing rototilling spreading etc.
I have a 45 hp New Holland Boomer. When it is doing its regen cycle, I can do any kind of tractor work at the same time. No loss in output power. I just need to leave the engine running at higher rpms for some tasks than I usually use. The manual recommends not working in tall grass as the exhaust system gets very hot during the regen. I suggest you check your manual. Your tractor might be different but diesel engine emissions dont change by tractor brand.
Yes, the Kubota can be run during the regen cycle, but if you are done with your work and it's not done with the cycle, it just sits there and burns fuel. There is a parked regen cycle where you cannot use the machine, but I haven't gone through that one yet.
Are you sure the top hole for the top link is for heavier pulling ground equipment? I was taught the opposite, the bottom hole is for the heavier pulling ground equipment.
From a tractor manual:
· For light and medium draft loads: Install center link (A) in bottom hole (B) of mounting bracket. Example of light and medium draft load implements would include a landscape rake.
· For medium and heavy draft loads: Install center link in middle hole (C) of mounting bracket. Example of medium and heavy draft load implements would include a tiller or box blade.
· For very heavy draft loads: Install center link in top hole (D) of mounting bracket. Example of very heavy draft load implements would include a plow or ripper.
@@PineyGroveHomestead my tractor is a ford 6600 and it says the exact opposite in my operators Manuel. figure 28 has three holes for attaching the upper link. attach the link in the top hole for light draft loads such as cultivating. attach the link in the center hole for heavier loads, such as plowing. attach the link in the bottom hole for very heavy draft loads, such as sub-soiling.
@@endsina1270 That's interesting because it's about the angle of the top link not the make of the tractor.
@@PineyGroveHomestead I personally figured it was about how much leverage is asserted upon your hydraulic, that is why the bottom makes more sense to me for heavier work . what make and model is your tractor?
@@PineyGroveHomestead Ive been reading further into it and it seems to me that it is specific to make and model of tractor, weather or not the heavy pulling hole is the top or bottom hole used.
Wow, you cover everything, nice, thanks.
Glad you enjoyed. We have a playlist of tractor work here: ruclips.net/p/PLG5yS75HLzo3RVqEuA0f6IioXV6FtFhHW
My hunting camp is north of Milton Florida. What seed do you recommend for a deer plot and when do you recommend planting?
We plant in late October/Early November, using wheat, rye, oats, clover and chicory. Here are some of our food plot videos: ruclips.net/p/PLG5yS75HLzo3B_kuSLkG7zUbMJ22vw4GS
Put a drag pipe behind the disc it will help.
We used to use a drag board "clod buster" when I was growing up.
Thank you for sharing your work
Thanks for watching.
Local soil types make a HUGE difference in which tillage solutions are best for you. What works best in Georgia is virtually meaningless in the UP.
I purchased the pro King Kutter, setting on the floor, I noticed when level the tines are only 1-1/2” below the skids on the ends. That’s with the skids all the way up.
I don’t know how you can till 6” or 7” deep like they say.
I think they believe the skids will sink in a little?? Some people take the skids all the way off. Thanks for watching!
yep, take em off, double pass, back into hardpan if needed...take another pass, 6" all day (and i mean all day, it took all day on a half acre ) @@PineyGroveHomestead
I've used both disc harrows and rotary tillers and prefer tiller for a smooth seedbed. All of my tractors are older models. No regen or DPF fluid.
Tillers are so nice!
@PineyGroveHomestead Yes, they are. I have used bottom plows and disc harrows for years. Got a 5' tiller a few years ago and really liked how much better my seedbeds were.
@@Rdrake1413 Agree! We talk about that in this video: ruclips.net/video/yHqsKoZsBX4/видео.html
That's good stuff. Keep the video's coming
It's always fun to work the land! Thanks for watching.
The tiller does leave a smooth surface, but I wonder how much of that is simply the back door dragging. Why has no one welded on some kind of 'back door' or drag bar or drag screen, for a disc harrow? I wonder what difference that makes.
They make a drag for a disc called a crumbler. Makes it a little more challenging to use in tight places.
u can cheaper option in applying disc harrow in horizontal and vertical directions to get same quality/perforamance as with rotary tiller or rotavator
Well done
Thanks brother. Trying to catch you!
Multiple passes with a harrow, will do just as well as a tiller even in heavy clay.
We really like that tiller though! Thanks for watching.
Since my biggest crop is rocks, I prefer the disc.
That's the best choice for your ground! Thanks for watching!
Maybe try to get one of those rock collectors to harvest that crop
Maybe not in Florida but in NC the County Ag people have no till grain drill they let you use and charge you by the acre. I understand they are not expensive to use per acre
There might be, but our tractor can't pull it. Probably the only time that field will get plowed as long as we own it!
@@PineyGroveHomestead yes they do recommend a tractor with a minimum of 40 hp. Didn’t say 40 hp geared or hydrostatic though.
I agree that can be frustrating but my regen cycles only seem to be about 10 minutes in length. Usually I can find a bit more tractor work to do for this time so Im still doing some productive work. " I cant stop working with the tractor because its doing a regen cycle" gives me more seat time, when I should be doing something else, that doesnt need a tractor.
I tried the parked regen process once, leaving the tractor running through lunch. It worked, and shut down itself when the cycle was over., but it seemed wasteful of fuel to me. I talked to a farmer about it and he said its great when you are cutting tall grass hay and cant cut during regen. You can leave the tractor parked out of the uncut hay, and it will run while you can go do something else. His slightly older tractor required him to sit on the tractor and babysit its entire regen cycle, wasting his time and fuel.
Great video. I wish I was a farmer.
I wish farming paid better for all the hard working farmers in America.
you don't want to use roundup. My brother in law and his dad both died from cancer from using this poison.
Sorry for your losses.
That didn't cause it.
Anything is a poison with the right dose
Farmers have the highest rate of brain tumors. Herbicides are bad. Pesticides are really bad.
I use IH 6' drag behind disc harrow with a 6' wide industrial chain link gate chained to rear of disc. Beautiful results😊
Very nice!
@@PineyGroveHomestead the reason why I mentioned International Harvester pull behind disc, is, these were some of the best disc's out there. No tools are needed for adjustments on both front and rear gangs out in the field. They are worth the money to repair. I do have a 5' 3pt disc it's good but the IH IS GREAT. Take care
In today's episode, THREE different ways to kill your soil biota, dramatically increase erosion, and ensure a complete crop failure if you have just a couple weeks of drought.
Seriously, you don't need to do any of these things to plant and grow a wildlife food plot. Tens of thousands of people are using a no-till approach that costs less, takes less time, and most importanly, doesn't destroy your soil just before asking it to grow something for you.
The field looks so awesome now. Stay tuned for updates. Thanks for watching.
@@PineyGroveHomestead - Do some research into the damage done by conventional tillage. Read the book, "Dirt to Soil", by Gabe Brown. I understand your desire to plant plots but there's a much better way to go about all of this.
If you no till, you MUST use chemicals... no way around it. I prefer conventional tillage as it reduces weeds/grass, incorporates oxygen into the soil which allows for increased microbial activity and incorporates organic matter into the root zone. This allows for greater moisture retention in that zone rather than shallow rooting in the top 4” in a no till field. Minimum tillage on slopes.
@@zebwalton979 - Every single one of those assertions is disproven by those actually practicing no-till planting methods. Unless you know more than Gabe Brown or Dr. Grant Woods, both of whom have the exact opposite position than you on every one of those claims?
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it! More tractor videos here: ruclips.net/p/PLG5yS75HLzo3RVqEuA0f6IioXV6FtFhHW
Once you switch to a tiller you will never go back. Does a 1000% better job.
Tillers do a great job and leave such a nice seed bed.
You're closer to 9hp lost through that hydrostat trans, than 3hp. Gear drive tractors are around 3hp lost.
Kubota says it's a 38hp engine and 32 PTO shaft hp......it's not enough!
Mind blowing you think spraying round up on food you digest is a good idea
Billions of people eat every day because of Round Up.
@@PineyGroveHomestead Billions of people are also getting cancer from eating roundup crops.
I bet you are one of those that drink almond milk. A product mixed in a barrel of chemicals it doesn't have any almonds in it. Or one of the other fake milks made out of water and chemicals
1. He clearly said it was a forage soybean, so it’s for animal consumption, probably pigs.
2. You 100% will have eaten a crop that has had roundup sprayed on it, and probably do so regularly.
@@hillbillybeerdranker6678 There is no evidence of this.
i always used notched discs greasing them was always my job cause i was youngest .
If you have farm equipment, you get good at greasing!
You are wrong about diesels not liking to be 'bogged' down. (within reasonable amount - they like to be worked) They need to be worked... otherwise they go into... regen more often. If you want the disc to be flat, drag something behind the disc... chain link fence, 4x4 posts, etc.
She was working pretty hard!
You should learn about the relationship and the symbiose between the living organisms in the soil and the plants, to understand that tilling your soil means destroying its fertility.
All looks great in a textbook.....but how to get seeds in the ground if you don't till?
@@PineyGroveHomestead Do nature till the soil? Yet it grows. To sow the seeds, you can broadcast or use a seeder for greater efficiency. There are more and more commercial gardener that do not till anymore and they still grow vegetables.
Just chisel plow it, then roto till, gotta disk the soybeans or corn in if you don't have a row seeder, we plant radish and lettuce in the late summer,deer love it
The planting video is coming up soon. We have a foodplot playlists that shows how we plant without rows: ruclips.net/p/PLG5yS75HLzo3B_kuSLkG7zUbMJ22vw4GS
I agree with AJP, l like primary plowing with chisel so you don’t have dead furrows like the moulboard leaves. Then till with a good heavy tiller like a Howard. One pass does the work of 3-4 or more passes with a disc, and that saves a lot of compaction down below that all those passes cause.
Mmm mmm good, roundup soybeans
You probably eat a component of them everyday.
@@PineyGroveHomestead I'm pretty sure that everyone does
Amazing!
Thanks!
Soybeans will also fix nitrogen in your soil which will be good for future crops that need nitrogen.
True. Here's what they looked like a few years later! ruclips.net/video/EkQjTMtfs5s/видео.html
Why do it on already plowed field
Tillage like this is the next step on a plowed field. Here is the same field, tilled without plowing. ruclips.net/video/oP6LDgfYyg4/видео.html
Pro. Gmo ?
it feeds the world
and everyone is diseased
Check with the county farm agent.
Some of them have smaller no till drills that you can rent very reasonably
To mix better with just the disk you cross cut.
I think my friend actually has one, but don't think my L3901 can pull it.
So what your saying out loud is that you plan on drenching your crop field with round up, the same field you plan to grow food for human consumption in? That just sounds so wrong to me.
If it weren't for Roundup, the world would be starving.
lol i wonder how big companies like monsanto convince people that they’re not the ones creating the disease and selling the so called cure. actually so if not for companies like monsanto we’d be able to eat vegetables and fruits without forever chemicals being on them.
please don't use Roundup
That's what I came to the comments to say.
Roundup is not a problem if used correctly it's when it's used incorrect that it becomes a problem
@@shadowdahlke7918 Hi! Could you please explain further what you mean? How can it be used correctly versus incorrectly? Thanks.
@shredpow certain plants are made to digest the chemical they can break it down and digest it and waste it plants that can't do that absorb the chemical and it kills them leaving it inside the plant. Usually nature breaks down the plants and manages any tiny amount of chemical that would remain in that plant however when farmers use round up to terminate a crop at the end of its life cycle we get glyphosate in the products that we consume. The reason they do this is to make the crop all die at the same time so harvest is fast and easy I farm I think this is crap and shouldn't be legal. As far as contact with chemical there's no evidence that Roundup causes all theese cancers and whatnot that they say it causes on the lawsuit ads. The truth is they don't know what causeses theese cancers or diseases and round up is an easy scape goat round up is actually one of the safest chemicals used in agriculture most of the other are far worse some even directly linked to things like brain degeneration and they even say it on the box nobody talks about those chemicals tho one of them they are trying to get reapproved for sale in the us right now.
✳️Tiller🖐️Hands Down🖐️.!!!🤔✳️
Agree. Tilling can transform a field quickly.
God bless PG
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Awsome thx
tip with a disc.. if its clumpy you can hit it again
Truth!
With the tiller you don't have to plow
We wanted to loosen up the soil deeper than a tiller can go. Thanks for watching.
Glyphosate 😱
It feeds the world.
The more you blend it the more you kill the natural micro-biome. That’s why chunky is better
Here's a follow up video: ruclips.net/video/fvXV4LN9rfk/видео.html
Looks like 2 or 3 acres not 1
it's actually .99 acres measured! Here's mowing it this year: ruclips.net/video/oMMntSEruYY/видео.html
This man forgot to forget any information lol.
Here's some more tractor videos! ruclips.net/p/PLG5yS75HLzo3RVqEuA0f6IioXV6FtFhHW
❤❤✨✨
Lol roundup ready? Ya go away bud.
RoundUp keeps the world from starving.
it actually keeps the young playing video games and not weeding
Grab the spoke of the steering wheel at the hub center and your lines will be straighter.
I am laughing at this ever thought about putting a 4 inch steel pipe behind the disk?
Sorry but you are deceived... the smooth, fine soil left by the tiller will dry out much faster than any other method, and will Compact under the rain, destroying aeration.
Those "clods" you don't prefer are where the precious moisture hides in the sun, AND acts to direct rain into the soil, keeping the top most layer from complete saturation and hence compaction ~
That is an interesting point!
I wouldn’t strongly recommend never planting anything that has been hybridized to withstand roundup. 😔😢
It's what is feeding the world.
Go herbicide free, no need for that crap on small farms.
Glyphosate has made farming much more efficient. We minimize the use of chemicals, but they have their place.
I'm just an average guy, I don't care about the environment as much as I should maybe but anytime I hear glyphosate or roundup I run the other way no matter how efficient it is. Asbestos is efficient too.
browse resistant.... lol people been mowing soybeans to double their yield for decades.....
for deer
He said roundup ready..🤦♂️ next video
Round Up feeds the world.
That's why you don't buy kabota mahindra has 40hp no dpf
Ford / Chevy
ROUND UP READY? GMO FOOD ON OUR PLATES. IM OUT
It'd be hard to find any food in a grocery store that hasn't had RoundUp sprayed on the fields it is grown in.
Damn, dry as a bone
You are out in the sun. Why do you have your hat on backwards?
So you can see my face.
Great video but you talk too much
Ha! Try this one: ruclips.net/video/fvXV4LN9rfk/видео.html
You talk too much and do too little, or are you just really happy to hear yourself talk
🤣🤣
Dude can you try not being a douche? He’s explaining stuff, ya know. With words? Do people can understand what point he’s getting through in this demonstration? If ya don’t like it then skip on
Way too my talking, more action less talking!
More videos here: ruclips.net/p/PLG5yS75HLzo3RVqEuA0f6IioXV6FtFhHW
So you plan on growing a food crop like watermelons in a field where you are going to spray poison. Yummy....NOT