I Bought a Creality Ender 3 Neo 3D Printer on Amazon Prime Day....!

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  • Опубликовано: 20 окт 2023
  • Im a total Noob when it comes to 3D Printing. I saw this great deal on Amazon Prime day and had to Jump on it! I hope you enjoy the video as much as I did making it! Hopefully my newness will inspire some to dive in like I did! Plenty of videos to come in the future!
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Комментарии • 30

  • @tomstestkitchen
    @tomstestkitchen 9 месяцев назад +5

    Congrat! That is the same model I bought a year ago and I love it. The problem you are having is that the build plate isn't completely leveled. The auto-leveling can only work properly if the bed is level. You will have to use the 4 knobs under the bed to adjust the springs manually first. There are plenty of videos on how to do that. First thing I would suggest is replace that glass bed with Creality PEI magnetic flexible build plate, it's so much better. You will also want to upgrade to Cura 5.4.0, it's the latest version and has so many awesome features. The new tree structures are a lifesaver.

    • @TheCrawlspaceCraftsman
      @TheCrawlspaceCraftsman  9 месяцев назад +1

      Fantastic reply! Exactly what I needed! Thanks so much and I can’t wait to see what I can do with the leveling. I’ve looked into the build plates so this confirms my needs! LoL. More to come on my 3D printing progression! Thanks Tom! Your the best!

    • @Smokinjoewhite
      @Smokinjoewhite 9 месяцев назад +1

      Yes, a PEI plate is a great recommendation, seeing as they cost the same I wonder why they are still selling printers with glass beds, they aren't bad but PEI is better in almost every way, the only reason I can think of is to make up for a warped bed, although unless the bed is really badly warped the bed mesh leveling should take care of that issue.

  • @bonzaidavid4766
    @bonzaidavid4766 9 месяцев назад +3

    Wash it with handsoap, dry it with a paper towel, then wipe it down with a paper towel and isopropyl alcohol. Avoid touching the bed with your fingers, the oil on your fingers can also cause issues with the first layer sticking to the print bed. I always wipe down the bed after every print.

  • @Smokinjoewhite
    @Smokinjoewhite 9 месяцев назад +2

    Origin at center is typically used for Delta style printers, the beds are circular and homed to the center of the bed, cartesian style printers like the ender 3 typically set home to the front left of the printer.

  • @Smokinjoewhite
    @Smokinjoewhite 9 месяцев назад +4

    It looks like your Z offset is too high, you should be able to go into your bed leveling settings and change your Z offset to a negative value, put a piece of printer paper below the nozzle and lower the Z offset until the paper drags lightly but with slight resistance, not so much that it can't be slid back under the nozzle if you pull it out all the way.
    Glue stick should not be needed if your bed is level and your Z offset is correct, there should also be a setting in bed leveling that moves your nozzle to each corner and then the center so you can use the paper technique mentioned earlier, going around 2-3 times until the bed is as close to level as you can get it and get the bed trammed first before using the auto leveling feature which is meant to fine tune your level, it checks 16 points (in your case, it can be changed to do more. I use 25 personally) and then adjusts your nozzle height on the fly according to the level of your bed and any imperfections using the saved mesh.
    In this order: Do the bed tramming first and get each corner and center level using paper, then do the auto level which sets your bed mesh, then set your z offset with a piece of paper.
    Happy printing, hope this helps. Oh, and don't forget to clean your bed with some isopropyl alcohol and a paper towel, I do it before every print unless I am doing consecutive prints and know I haven't touched the surface.

  • @auroraRealms
    @auroraRealms 9 месяцев назад +2

    The first layer is by far the most important thing to get right. Better to print first layer tests, and get the first layer calibrated. 60c is the correct temperature for PLA. There are two schools of thought on PLA bed adhesion; clean the bed with dish soap and water, and never touch the bed, or apply a layer of hairspray or gluestick to the bed. The hairspray or gluestick should last for a few prints. The distance of the nozzle to the bed, on the first layer, is super important, so that will be the single most important thing to get right. If somebody is looking to buy a 3D Printer, I would recomend going with a Sovol SV06. It has a lot of advantages comming out of the gate.

    • @TheCrawlspaceCraftsman
      @TheCrawlspaceCraftsman  9 месяцев назад

      Awesome! I’m still working on getting the bed level. It’s a little tough but I’m getting there. I’ll definitely attempt a few bed adhesion types in an up coming video. My videos will definitely be about the journey more than teaching for a little while! LoL

    • @Smokinjoewhite
      @Smokinjoewhite 9 месяцев назад +2

      @@TheCrawlspaceCraftsman Isopropyl alcohol is also really good for cleaning most beds unless they specifically warn against it, I use it on all my build plates and never have adhesion issues unless I overlook something in my slicer or my first layer is off. I used to use hairspray when I first started printing a few years back, but it really isn't needed unless as a release agent for extra sticky materials (such as PETG on glass or smooth PEI/PEX) in my experience.
      For PLA on carborundum coated glass I just make sure the bed is level, your Z offset is correct, your bed temps are right (between 60 and 70c, typically temps reported by the printer are lower than the surface of the plate on these printers with these beds by 3-8c in my experience, edges are cooler again) and I always use IPA before every print, some people warn against IPA on carborundum but I had 3 printers running pretty much around the clock with these beds for over 2 years with no issues at all regarding the IPA affecting the surface negatively. As @arouraRealms suggested water and dish soap is also a great way to clean these beds, I still use IPA after cleaning though, do not confuse with the beer!
      I highly recommend getting a PEI flex plate, most come with a magnetic sticker to apply directly to the printer bed but some don't so make sure yours does. Personally I found the comgrow double sided (smooth one side and textured the other) to be great value and good quality (found on Amazon), you can get slightly higher quality plates from brands such as Wham Bam, but in my experience they have been no better than the Comgrow ones I bought, the smooth side of the Wham bam plates MAY last a little longer, but I am yet to notice much difference. I have many PEI/PEX plates from various brands and most work about as well as one another. Just make sure it's 235x235mm and comes with a magnetic sticker. I tend to use the textured side for PLA, always textured for PETG (PETG will weld to smooth PEI but is fine on textured) and I use the smooth side for printing ABS, but for that you will want an enclosure to prevent draughts (or drafts if you prefer) and keep the hot air around your print.
      Sorry about the long reply, there is so much to talk about when it comes to printing and gets a bit wordy.

  • @braKOOM
    @braKOOM Месяц назад +1

    I managed to level the bed and had no slip issues. My problem is it will not at all push the filament consistently. It will start nice but stops a few minutes in

  • @bellaplays2702
    @bellaplays2702 7 месяцев назад +1

    im in exactly same position, same printer also , still cant decide, and i love painting models

    • @TheCrawlspaceCraftsman
      @TheCrawlspaceCraftsman  7 месяцев назад

      I havnt messed with mine much more but plan too! Want to make some tool accessories!

  • @WINSTONX
    @WINSTONX 5 месяцев назад +1

    what idea did yuou have for sticking the model to the plate?

    • @TheCrawlspaceCraftsman
      @TheCrawlspaceCraftsman  5 месяцев назад +1

      Unfortunately not much. I haven’t really done any 3D printing since the video! I might get back into it but as of now…. No plans! Just wanted to be straight with ya!

  • @emmanuelskolinos1361
    @emmanuelskolinos1361 9 месяцев назад +1

    and use a plastic tool to remove the print not metal will dameg the glass

  • @emmanuelskolinos1361
    @emmanuelskolinos1361 9 месяцев назад +1

    yes use a glue stick and use water to clean it no need fancy things.

  • @emmanuelskolinos1361
    @emmanuelskolinos1361 9 месяцев назад +1

    you did good but i see you have a laser that means you know a lot :)

    • @TheCrawlspaceCraftsman
      @TheCrawlspaceCraftsman  9 месяцев назад

      Thank you! I have some basic skills. As far as 3D printing goes I know almost nill so a lot of my videos are more about my journey and people learning with me as we go! Thanks for watching!

  • @adamscarsandstuff4969
    @adamscarsandstuff4969 24 дня назад +1

    tee dee pinter

  • @andrewpotter5956
    @andrewpotter5956 4 месяца назад

    Minerefuses to autohome,the XAxis bracket was on the wrong way,checked the wiring ,still.refuses to autohome.

    • @TheCrawlspaceCraftsman
      @TheCrawlspaceCraftsman  4 месяца назад

      Hope you get it worked out!

    • @andrewpotter5956
      @andrewpotter5956 4 месяца назад

      @@TheCrawlspaceCraftsman yep got it to Autohome,but then the card reader failed,new board coming ...it never ends..🙄

    • @TheCrawlspaceCraftsman
      @TheCrawlspaceCraftsman  4 месяца назад

      @@andrewpotter5956 got to admit…. I haven’t used mine since I got it. I should try again but it’s kinda a pain in the arse! LoL

    • @andrewpotter5956
      @andrewpotter5956 4 месяца назад

      @@TheCrawlspaceCraftsman it's put me off big time but since I finally got it to Autohome,I decided to upgrade to the Silent Board,and it was sooo quiet....and then the Card Reader died..so I thought bugger it,and then I found about Pronterface, and I'm going to download that tomorrow, it's Free and you can run the printer via USB cable,and not rely on buggered Chinese engineering....