Shaking Steering Wheel - Brake Inspection And Change
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
- Is your steering wheel shaking while you're braking or do you feel a strange 'knocking' in the brake pedal? That's possibly a sign for worn-out brakes on your car. The Acura RSX in this video had the exact same problem. No, it was even worse! The whole car was vibrating when the brake pedal was hit.
We took the car to our garage to give the front brake system a deep inspection and replaced the rotors to get rid of the problem. While we were working on these parts it was a good opportunity to give the guide pins a fresh new amount of grease to keep them lubricated.
This video shows the full progress of replacing brake pads and rotors, as well as maintaining the guide pins to help you with your next brake change.
1:20 - Parts Overview
1:33 - Flipping Up Caliper
2:32 - Brake Pad Removal
2:40 - Brake Pad Inspection
3:05 - Caliper Removal
4:23 - Rotor Removal
4:27 - Wheel Hub Cleaning
4:50 - Brake Disc Preparation
5:25 - Brake Disc Installation
5:39 - Guide Pin Inspection/Maintenance
6:47 - Brake Shims Cleaning
7:32 - Caliper Installation
8:01 - Compress Caliper Piston
8:54 - Brake Pad Installation
9:50 - Passenger Side in Timelapse
11:29 - Testdrive
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Thank you for your guiding. My car is in the same situation, and I also trying to replace front rotors. Your voice is so adorable.
For brake calipers guide pins. Best lubricant.. silicon grease
Great video, good camera work, clear instructions too, just a couple of tips I would recommend ! When removing the caliper undo the bottom bolt first, this way you don't have to support the caliper when undoing the second bolt ! Use copper grease on the hub facing where the new disc makes contact to help prevent corrosion between the disc and hub ! Put a cloth or paper toweling around the brake fluid reservoir just in case fluid comes out when pushing back the caliper pistons ! Great job.
Thanks for the tips. Will definitely keep them in mind!
Very nice tutorial. One of the better ones I've seen.
Thanks for the kind words!
Thanks a lot for a great video, I have same problem and I am going to REPLACE rotors soon. You didn't use Caliper Silicon for Pins..., It's ok with synthetic Grease too. Thanks and God bless
Glad it helped
My Toyota Corolla is experiencing the same thing.. I will get a new brake disc And have it done the same way you did in that fantastic video
Tip: use high temp paint on your new Disc to prevent rust and make the disc last longer.
Hey, thank you so much for the informative vide, much appreciated. Any idea on the chances of wheel hub making the steering to shake when you apply the brake over the disc rotors? Thank you!
I have an inner pad worn out much sooner than the others.99 yukon 4x4.pins have a sleeve that is staked to bolt .Cleaned greased buffed the rough areas.Crud was built up the last 1/2inch of pins and was tapered where seals works onto them possibly keeping pads from retracting.Much rust from Texas coast anti lock brakes horrible and in emergency car keeps rolling.Took fuse out working good.
Your video on this was great . i like how u narrated your video
Excellence video... you explained all the details needed. you the best thank you
excelent work... thank u man...
Great job on this video brother, well done.
2:15 Or some cars allow you to take just the top bolt out and rest it down instead of flipping up and having to support it.
You should have changed the pads for a even smoother ride trust me there worn to the pattern if the old rotors next time put new rotors and pads
Great explanation!!!!
Well explained!!!
You may want to clean the hub surface a little better (the center round part) and apply some high temperature grease on the hub surface that contacts the rotor just to prevent/slow down rusting of the same for the future work. Just saying...Good work.
thanks for the helpful input. Applying grease to the contact area makes sense!
You should put copper grease on the wheel hub so you don't have the the disk stuck to it! Anyway good video though!
good advice!
So if your steering wheel shakes it could be because your disc, Guide pins or brake pads?
Most likely discs, but also the pads yea. If you're about to replace the discs also change the pads right away.
I have 4runner 2006 shaking at 25 mph when accelerate slowly but with strong accelerate no shake at all. Do you know what might be the problem? Thanks indeed
I have Dodge challenger rt classic 2012 only 60000km and i change disk and pad for same problem
We had the same problem, it was a wrong bolt on the caliper usually ed old bolt 🔩 and the whole in the old bolt has a smaller hole than the new bolt, so the brake fluid was pumping in fine, but wasn't pumping back out when you'd release the brake causing the brake to heat up extremely and cause shaking and vibration. There bolt from old caliper was shorter and hole was too small! Hope this helps some one out there!
Awesome video. Could it not be the rear axel rotors?
Thanks! No, they wouldn't cause the steering wheel shake
@@kpowered thanks brother. So glad to see your channel.
Nice to see the job almost done correctly.Great to see a torque wrench in use,it's important to use one.Failure to use a torque wrench on the caliper securing housing,can lead to it deforming when hot.The one thing that ruined the job was reusing the old pads.This is a major error.The old pads,would have been worn in to the shape of the old rotors and in their service life,would have picked up all kinds of contamination from the road.New pads are generally not that expensive,better to wait until you can afford new pads to go with the new rotors.
Absolutely true. In retrospective I would definitely change the pads along with the rotors.
@@kpowered if those pads are quiet and have at least more 6mm (effectively half) on them I wouldn’t change them. Instead wash them with dish detergent and dry with a clean cloth or blue paper towel then get a big sheet of 220 grit sand paper and do some figure 8’s until evenly matte finish and not glazed. They bed in fine, are still silent, you don’t have to compress calipers either and probably get 2 more years and 20,000 to 30,000+ miles …. The mistake you made was using white lithium grease, which is okay for rubber and higher temp than most, but you want silicone brake grease ONLY
@@NETWizzJbirk Thanks for the insight! Makes sense to me
Why You using a vernier if your changing discs you might as well change pads too
Amazon said I shud tell u "u are welcome"😂
So was the problem caliper or disk?
discs
I didn’t have the shake of the steering wheel , I changed brand new rotors and brake pads all four of them now I have steering wheel shake so can a brand new rotor be bad ? Everything else is fine
drive it around for a while, hopefully it'll be gone after some breaking
You should never blow on to brake area parts, as there is asbestos present upon the surfaces. Use only brake grease on brake parts. The brake grease withstands much higher temperatures than that of convention lubricants. I always use sandpaper to cross-hatch the surface of the rotors on both sides of the rotors, this will guarantee that there is no remaining manufacturers rust inhibitor. Spray with brake cleaner generously. Wear a N95 mask to protect you from the asbestos dust, and thoroughly wash your hands afterward.
good advice, thanks!
Wondering if the judder returned after e.g. 5 - 6.000 km of driving?
Hasn't come back :)
No sense to make a video
If you cannot point out and prove
Which part causes the vibrations
And how ?
Dope video. Thank you 🙏🏼
What to have checked when steeping on break an fills like it’s slipping an steering pulls an shakes at times
Wheel bearings, tie rods.
My shaking wen I brake on my old dually is the tie rod end I thought brakes cause only wen I brake but it’s tie rod
which thickness rotors?
So it worked?
Yes.
My truck does the same thing thanks
I just had my brake pads changed in the front and the steering wheel is now shaking back & forth at 30 mph, not when I’m braking, does anyone know why??
try balancing your tires.
So brake rotor & brake pad nonparallelism
Fix a problem different problem happenes lol
2:40 Is it just me or you really do use your vernier caliper with the most weird way I could ever imagine.
you're probably right.😄
Rotors don't wharp,,,they would have to reach 2300 degrees to wharp,,,but they can becomes uneven if caliper is weak are rotor uneven from mount surface being corroded
So would one still need to replace rotors to fix the problem or just clean rust from rotors
@@juanm0788 you have to clean surface before you installed rotors,,if it was driven to long ,the rotor have been wored down unevenly now,, rotors are so inexpensive now ,best to buy new,,, and always change caliper brake hoses,,,they weaken internally over years and use,,and can calapse,and not let piston withdraw..
@@juanm0788 and important to tourge your wheels evenly, to be sure there flat to all surfaces, there is more to doing a good brake job then most realize, and the little things make all the difference.
Hi George could the rear rotors also cause this problem?
@@alphaomega7868 yes,,,,on front wheel drive vehicles,, the front brakes do most of the work, and you usually we change front brakes twice before the back wears out,,, but it's just as important to make sure mounting surface is clean,,,and tourged evenly., and always change caliper brake hoses with caliper..
Did I detect perhaps a German or Scandinavian accent?
German :D
läuft bei dir
Guess what bro ?
Try putting AIR in your tires..............thank me latter.
B7
Bad video one sounds too much wind