I purchased a 94 GMC Sierra C3500. Getting off the freeway one day, the front end of the GMC started shaking violently while braking. I called it a death shake. I jacked up the front wheel and turned the wheel. You could actually feel how warped the rotor was, which caused the passenger side wheel to heat up. Replaced the rotor and bearings. $350 for parts $200 for labor. It's as smooth as glass braking on the exit ramp.
I've been pulling a wrench for 45 years (ASE Certified) & this video is as good as it gets for describing brake & rotor issues. Keep up the good work, a lot of do it yourselfers count on it.
I’m getting ready to change my rotors and pads from my 07 jgc laredo. Are amazon brake kits reliable? I’d hate to go to dealership for oem parts but she just hit 196K and I do feel vibration under heavy braking I think it’s time for a new set (looking atm from amazon $200)
Synthetic brake fluid is making it's way into braking issues too. DOT 3 and 4 seem to absorb moisture overtime which creates a thickening of the fluid. It could cause blockages or weak pressure to a caliper, unequal pressure to calipers etc. It could also cause the fluid to expand when it gets hot cause one or more calibers to apply pad pressure to a rotor. It does the same thing with hydraulic clutches too. It is a good idea to flush those systems periodically. When I did my front brakes last year one pad was worn to the metal and the other had 4mm of pad left. The fluid in the lines was milky and thicker than normal. I flushed the entire system.
In my opinion he is the best person to demonstrate information/ causes from their group because it's simple, down to earth explanations and his energy portraying information doesn't make you fall asleep. Another good video man 👍
My mother has had her breaks done so many times but her suv still has the shudder or pulsation happening when breaking going down hills. Im going to show her this video so she can get the breaks fixed properly. Thank you so much for this video!!!
If she hasn't fixed the issue by now, she needs to check her hub and bearing assembly. Most likely the hub is bent thus unevenly wearing her new rotors one after another. Also make sure her wheel isn't bent as well. This can be caused by a simple slow slide into a curb in the winter. All the mass of the automobile is forced into one spot and then the damage occurs. The hub is all too often over looked as the technicians are poorly trained.
I just installed a front rotor and new brake pads on my F150. It got late so the passenger side is all I got done. Now, my pedal pulses with new parts. Everything was torque according to specs. What does this indicate when I didn’t have the problemwith the old rotors and old brake pads? I cleaned the two pins and re-greased as well.
Holy cow - I learned more about braking issues in this 10 min video than I've ever known. Well done and thank you for all the details. I especially love the detailed explanations of all the different things that can cause a pulsation. You also gave examples of what might be a minor issue but still safe vs what a serious issue would be and why. That's unbelievably helpful. Thanks again and keep up the great work!!
Ok so brake pulsation is always a hot topic. Rotors usually don't "warp" due to too much heat on the rotor but too much heat on the pads. Steel goes through a phase change in structure much higher than normal driving (think when rotors glow on a race track). One of the for sure ways pulsation car occur is uneven pad material transfer to the rotors due to poor driving habits or poor break in after install. This is why pad manufacturers recommend to avoid holding the brakes when the vehicle is at rest during the initial pad break in procedure test drive. Heavy uneven corrosion on rotors such as what dealerships call "lot rot" is another culprit.
Well, yeah, but they also do "warp" or, also very common, due to other failures, have uneven wear that increases the effect. A real warped disc is the less common thing, yeah, but it does happen. E.g. people driving down a hill, foot on the brake, temperature in the disc rising high, then coming to a complete stop where the part of the disc where the pads are will cool down a lot quicker and the disc might get warped.
Great info. Adding a couple cents to the pot.... don't forget to check the wheel hub face for runout and the surface conditions of the rotor hat section (the surface that rests on the wheel hub) and wheel hub for road dirt/corrosion build up. If the rotor to wheel hub mounting surfaces are not flat/clean this condition can translate to the rotor having excessive runout.
Man, this guy is amazing at making repair videos ! I want to add to always use special synthetic brake caliper greese on pins and slides other greese can breakdown from hight heat and gum up the calipers and stop them from moving properly .
even with new rotors, before you install clean the face of the axle hub really well with a wire brush on a drill. Get ALL the crud off. this will insure the rotor sits flush and true onto the hub and will help minimize judder later.
Also apply a good coating of "Anti sieze" on any connecting surfaces. That way next time you have do brakes, everything comes apart like it's supposed to and you won't have to pound the rotor off with a 10 pound hammer.
I truly love Len! I can't tell you how many issues I've had with my 2 cars where I just RUclips the problem and lo and behold: Len has a video demonstrating exactly how to fix it.
good video. I thought the pulsing in my car was from my front rotors, but the vibrations are felt in the brake pedal / car, not in the steering wheel so it's likely from the rear brakes.
Hey Len, you’re great! Thanks for explaining what causes brake pulsation. This video will help many DIY and even some experienced mechanics. Hopefully you make more videos.
thank you so much, I've been trying to find a reason for my car shaking when braking and it was shaking he did tell me my rears need to be done but this gives me a peace of that its not as bad as I was originally thinking, time to make the appointment
Brake discs don't warp. The slightest run-out introduced when mounting new, wears so as to make the disc thinner on the two opposite sides. The two high spots are worn away. So as it goes round, the pads rub on thick thin thick thin. Calipers can follow a run out of 5 thou without any problem, but a variation in thickness of just 0.0005 inches will be a pulsation of your brake pedal.
@@symboleyes6242 and if you have a hotrod like me revving to 7500 rpm at 120 mph in 10 seconds, you need high carbon rotors, or the caliper will make impressions in the heated metal 🤣
You don't replace rotors without the pads, but its perfectly normal to replace just the pads without the rotors, they are meant to last less than rotors and being replaced as they wear down unless you hit the metal to metal grinding of the rotors.
I appreciate you taking the time explaining things this video has given me a bit more clarity upon pulsation when braking. i still need to gain better understanding of the abs system... to know the difference in diagnosing a issue. To determine whether it is in fact the calipers with piston issue or any of the encompassing components...to the actual abs system causing the problem...
You said exactly what I’ve been telling these mechanics my problem, too bad they told me about a month ago that nothing was wrong and they even test drove it. They said my rotors and brakes are in great condition and I’d be wasting money changing them. Im going somewhere else and I will also mention about getting the calipers checked for freezing issues. I knew something was wrong so I’m replacing both today because I’m getting pulsation every couple stops for over a month now.
This video saved me!!! Thank you so much!!! I never knew that modern rotors didn't have enough "meat" on them to be cut. That's important info for the DIY. Thank you!!!
Thank you for this information !! I have been so frustrated with my situation with my vehicle. I knew I had to replace the rotors . I know a little bit about vehicles. but I am always willing to learn more. thank you.
Sir, great video. I have a 2011 Chevy Silverado Truck. prior to replacing my rear brakes no Rear Shudder / NO Pulsation happening. During a dealer inspection, they recommended to get my rear brakes replaces. So, I did and got the parts from Auto Zone, brakes and drums, took it to our local brake shop, once they finished the job. Drove off and on my way home, I noticed a Shudder/Pulsation when I apply the brakes coming from the rear. What course of action I should take? New Brakes, springs, drums were provided to the mechanic. Very Respectfully H.A.M
Warped rotors from over tightening the lugs nuts. Back in the 70s, 80s, 90s we learned to diagnose car problems from similar past experience problems. Vehicles are pretty much still the same today except manufacturers have put in way too many sensors and have made cars way too complex (electronics wise) as manufacturers have seen there is a huge market in the car repair industry. Do people really need a sensor in their windshield washer reservoir and tire pressure sensors are a complete joke in themselves! How hard is it to check your tire pressure once a month? These are 5 minute jobs at the most and for some reason the auto industry thinks people are much too stupid and lazy to do even basic maintenance on their vehicles.
Brilliant video, very factual and no bull. Good to see some one make a video who knows what there on about. Was making judgments from the start very impressed keep it up
And don't forget to check the wheel bearings.. I have seen hub assemblies heat up wheels causing me to check the brakes to see if I had a caliper hanging on. Noticed some vibration the end up coming not from the rotor but from the bearing beginning to come apart and allowing the wheel to warble a little
I am getting ready to check this situation out on my 95 ford f150, ( 99,000 miles ) I will be buying bearings too. My truck was so bad I could hardly drive it ( sometimes ) . It was toe in about an inch and I reset the toe, tie rods and joints were good though. That took care of a lot of it but still feel the vibration and the right hub gets hot. Well nothing else to do this weekend lol. This old 60 year old is going back under the truck.
Google a local family owned mechanic shop. Read the reviews. Try to find honest mechanics. Definitely not one of these corporate places... jiffy lube pep boys, etc...
Nahh fr. Once i started going to get my brakes done, the 3rd time i did it, now my car started shaking when i brake. And even when it doesn't do it, sometimes it feels like the brakes is all soft and when i apply more pressure, then it starts happening, even with new brakes and pads. I ll have to explain this to next time i go
@redtail1. Better get them fixed ASAP. My tires got super worn out because of the breaks and the shaking. I went back and made them fix their issue. The pepboy guy was trying to justify the shaking and blaming ME for it. My man stood up for me and they finally did their job but before that they tried to over charge me after I had already paid for all breaks and rotors. Haven't had issues since.
When I pressed my breaks at a ligh intersection... just when my vehicle was gonna come to a complete stop I heard a noise under near the front left side of my car and felt and my vehicle skidded about 3 feet before it came to a complete stop. Is that my ABS going bad?
I am struggling to think that every time a vehicle needs new pads, you also need to replace the rotors. That would jack every brake job from $100-$200 to closer to $750
I would like to know what can cause brake pulsation AFTER a brake job was completed. Both rotors were turned along with new bearings in the integrated hub, and yes, I did knock out the old race and replace it with the new ones. The new races were seated completely. The new bearings were packed by hand with the grease in the palm method. High temp bearing grease was used and lots of extra grease was packed into the inside of the hub. New inside seal installed. Wheel nut was torqued and spun at the same time at 12 and then 30 ft/lbs. Then the nut was backed off 1/4 turn and finger tightened. Rotors spun smoothly. Did not replace the slider pins in the bracket but I did clean them up and replaced the boots. Put a generous amount of brake grease on the pens and seated the boots. Cleaned excess grease with brake cleaner. Installed the brackets (they were stamped R/L) and torqued them to 136 ft/lbs. Installed new anti-rattle clips, fully seated, on the upper and lower anchor plates, making sure they did not touch the rotor. Applied a small amount of brake grease on each pad track. Sprayed rotor good a final time with brake cleaner to remove any stray dabs of grease and fingerprints. Installed the new brake pads (ceramic) into the bracket with the friction side against the rotor. I did put a dab of grease on the tabs that make contact with the clips, but I did not put any anti-squeal compound on the metal side of the pads. I did not rebuild the dual piston calipers but used a clamp and one of the old pads to press the pistons back into the caliper. Opened the master cylinder cap to let the fluid flow back into the reservoir. Installed new anti-rattle clips (the bigger ones) inside the caliper. Installed the calipers on the slider pins and torqued them to 26 ft/lbs. Mounted the tires and torqued to lug nuts to 100 ft/lbs. Tires spun smoothly. Went for a test ride and almost right from the start they felt rough and after a few more times they began to judder. It has gotten worse the more I drive it, the pulsation is more pronounced. I have no issues on the road until I go to brake. It does pull slightly to the side which it did not do before. But it is now parked until I can figure out what is wrong. After doing some more reading I realize that maybe it didn't break them in properly. I am going to go sand the rotors and the pads to get any glaze off and see if that might help.
2012 toyota corolla, I have replaced the brake pads, rotors, drums and calipers 3 times. All brand new top of the line parts and they CONTINUE to be warped again within a short period of just a couple months. What suspension or steering or axle or tie rods or what kind of other part outside of the brake system could cause the brakes to warp extremely quickly? Because the brake system has been replaced entirely 4 times in less than 4 years........
I had new rotors and calipers and pads still has squeaking brakes, then the pads replaced twice, van driven less then 1500 miles, now it vibrates and shakes after a 25 mile trip, so could the lines or hoses have junk in them plugging the calipers?
Thank you! I replaced the front and back rotors and pads! Still having a lil shudder when stepping on the brakes coming to a stop. If I am going slow, 2-5 mph it does it as well… Thinking it might be the front calipers, even tho inspecting them I didn’t see any cracks or leakage…? I know I need to get new shocks, but just gonna do one step at a time. 2007 Chevy Tahoe, if anyone else has had these issues please reach out to me, maybe I am missing something or over looking it…? Thank you for the video!
HELP! Should pulsating and shaking happen on my 2023 car?! It's not even a year old and it started to do this 2-3 months ago. Please any info would be helpful. Is this issue "common" for a car this new?
I have drilled and slotted rotors on the rear of my car and I think I just want slotted on the front. I think that slotted and drilled is just too much metal taken away from the rotor and perhaps it might not work as well long term with my driving style.
I have a 07 Infiniti G35 and changed front brakes and Rotors, it still pulsates. Don’t know what’s going on. Mechanic says need to change the front control arm and bushings.
Hi, good afternoon... i need help with my car... i changed the rotors and pads twice now with two different mechanics but my car still Shacking specially when braking down when im over 45mph.... i need to solve this problem please... by looking at the beginning of the video looks like you like near by my house. Tucker st.... wondering if you able to help me.. even if i have to change everything for a third time... thank you
+Matt Wernecke Thanks for watching! If you are having issues with the brakes you ordered from us please contact our customer service department right away. We are more than happy to help resolve the issue!
Question. I had my brakes replace and rotors replace in the front but they continue to shake. They only started shake when I replace my rotors and brakes. The dealership says I have to replace the rotors and brakes again even tho they are brand new brakes and rotors. Is it possible they gave me faulty brakes and rotors ?
any help i have a 2001 tundra v6 problem. The problem it that when i brake it vibrate and shaking but when it running no vibrate only when brake so i replace new calipers,rotors, brake pab, new tires ,driveshaft support center bearing and the all 3 u joins but still vibrate any help thank you
Excellent presentation, great explanation of all posible escenarios. In my situation, my car is experiencing some drastic vibration when braking, almost 100% is the front rotors, they were replaced 3 years ago, not sure how long they suppose to last.
Great video ... I just changed brakes and rotors on a 2001 Hummer H1 at GM authorized mechanic and since when braking , specially at 50-60 m/p going as lightly downhill , very noticeable rocking back & fort is felt Talked to the shop and they say has nothing to do with brakes cause pulsation is more like streeting doing rapid left /right shake .. But I think that are wrong . Brakes and rotors on a Hummer H1 are not mounted on the wheels like most cars They are mounted side by side on the middle of axle . Therefore the pulsation is felt in the form of of rapid back and forth shake Anyone has any opinion of suggesting on this ? Thnx
I have mercedes cla my car stops normally my rotors and pads all are new but i am experiencing uneven braking just before my car stops completely. I press my break in constant angle but still i feel a little jerk before being complete stop why??
I replaced my rotors including pads 2 months ago and when I step on the brakes I'm getting a lot of vibration from my front suspension. Could it be a control arm or ball joint?
I just changed my rotors and brakes a week ago. The shakin stopped but then it came back. I took my car to the tire shop to get a shake down and inspected amd they said everything was fine and couldn't tell me why I get shaking when I brake at 60-70mph but it doesn't shake at lower than 60mph. Why?
He forgot to mention a dusty/rusty hub when the rotor was fitted . This would cause a judder and it happened to me when the mechanic never cleaned the hub
Just purchased the slotted rotors and brake pads from you guys for my Odyssey 09 and since replacing them my car has been rattling and steering wheel shakes very intensely, any suggestions? The car is currently at the mechanic.
@@soilBGuRu420 the mechanic replace the front rotors with a genuine part for the Odyssey , I was only able to use the rear set , front rotors from A1 got trash don't buy.
From Wagner is a brake shoe Hybrid-Organic. Also, put the slotted new RecativeOne Roters on. All the way around. Don't forget the brake fluid topic. Condensation will get into the brake lines over time. BLEED THOSE LINES. FRESH JUICE IS GOOD! MY 2500 breaking is the best now. Did it all at home. No video's no vanity. Neener neener....
Now lets say you got drums in the rear and when going to brake and the vehicle doesn’t shake however the pedal slips like there’s pressure but the pressure keeps on stuttering and the vehicle loses the brakes and they come back all within a few seconds of braking, my abs light also comes and goes I heard something about the ABS sensor but i wanna see what everyone else thinks and get more info
Thanks for such a great video. I am trying to diagnose a brake pulsating issue on my F150 2012. I just replaced both front and back rotors and pads lastweek. I'm getting crazy pulsating and shuddering. Brand new rotors brand new pads on all four wheels. Please suggest some solution, thanks.
I just changed my brakes on my 04 chevy z71 an after new brakes now my truck shakes bad not whole stoping but while driving an before it never did that
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Do you have to replace the brake pads if you do get new rotors? Would used brake pads mess up new rotors?
@@MrYega-zq7rz 3³
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Finally, some great advice for the problems I've been having. Thanks man, you're amazing!
I purchased a 94 GMC Sierra C3500. Getting off the freeway one day, the front end of the GMC started shaking violently while braking. I called it a death shake. I jacked up the front wheel and turned the wheel. You could actually feel how warped the rotor was, which caused the passenger side wheel to heat up. Replaced the rotor and bearings. $350 for parts $200 for labor. It's as smooth as glass braking on the exit ramp.
I've been pulling a wrench for 45 years (ASE Certified) & this video is as good as it gets for describing brake & rotor issues. Keep up the good work, a lot of do it yourselfers count on it.
+Michael Bearden Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Ass certified cool
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I’m getting ready to change my rotors and pads from my 07 jgc laredo. Are amazon brake kits reliable? I’d hate to go to dealership for oem parts but she just hit 196K and I do feel vibration under heavy braking I think it’s time for a new set (looking atm from amazon $200)
@@lstruggy I wouldn't bet my life on any products from Amazon
Absolutely spot on explanation of brake pulsation, you are 1,000 times better than any A1 auto owner that made a youtube video...
Synthetic brake fluid is making it's way into braking issues too. DOT 3 and 4 seem to absorb moisture overtime which creates a thickening of the fluid. It could cause blockages or weak pressure to a caliper, unequal pressure to calipers etc. It could also cause the fluid to expand when it gets hot cause one or more calibers to apply pad pressure to a rotor. It does the same thing with hydraulic clutches too. It is a good idea to flush those systems periodically. When I did my front brakes last year one pad was worn to the metal and the other had 4mm of pad left. The fluid in the lines was milky and thicker than normal. I flushed the entire system.
Thanks, I agree that bad brake fluid can also affect braking-excellent point.
In my opinion he is the best person to demonstrate information/ causes from their group because it's simple, down to earth explanations and his energy portraying information doesn't make you fall asleep. Another good video man 👍
Couldn't agree more! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-Now
My mother has had her breaks done so many times but her suv still has the shudder or pulsation happening when breaking going down hills. Im going to show her this video so she can get the breaks fixed properly. Thank you so much for this video!!!
If she hasn't fixed the issue by now, she needs to check her hub and bearing assembly. Most likely the hub is bent thus unevenly wearing her new rotors one after another. Also make sure her wheel isn't bent as well. This can be caused by a simple slow slide into a curb in the winter. All the mass of the automobile is forced into one spot and then the damage occurs. The hub is all too often over looked as the technicians are poorly trained.
Get out there and fix that shit Janz.
Why do u think she had a son?
I just installed a front rotor and new brake pads on my F150. It got late so the passenger side is all I got done. Now, my pedal pulses with new parts. Everything was torque according to specs. What does this indicate when I didn’t have the problemwith the old rotors and old brake pads? I cleaned the two pins and re-greased as well.
Holy cow - I learned more about braking issues in this 10 min video than I've ever known. Well done and thank you for all the details. I especially love the detailed explanations of all the different things that can cause a pulsation. You also gave examples of what might be a minor issue but still safe vs what a serious issue would be and why. That's unbelievably helpful. Thanks again and keep up the great work!!
Ok so brake pulsation is always a hot topic. Rotors usually don't "warp" due to too much heat on the rotor but too much heat on the pads. Steel goes through a phase change in structure much higher than normal driving (think when rotors glow on a race track). One of the for sure ways pulsation car occur is uneven pad material transfer to the rotors due to poor driving habits or poor break in after install. This is why pad manufacturers recommend to avoid holding the brakes when the vehicle is at rest during the initial pad break in procedure test drive.
Heavy uneven corrosion on rotors such as what dealerships call "lot rot" is another culprit.
Well, yeah, but they also do "warp" or, also very common, due to other failures, have uneven wear that increases the effect. A real warped disc is the less common thing, yeah, but it does happen. E.g. people driving down a hill, foot on the brake, temperature in the disc rising high, then coming to a complete stop where the part of the disc where the pads are will cool down a lot quicker and the disc might get warped.
Great info. Adding a couple cents to the pot.... don't forget to check the wheel hub face for runout and the surface conditions of the rotor hat section (the surface that rests on the wheel hub) and wheel hub for road dirt/corrosion build up. If the rotor to wheel hub mounting surfaces are not flat/clean this condition can translate to the rotor having excessive runout.
Very good point
Man, this guy is amazing at making repair videos ! I want to add to always use special synthetic brake caliper greese on pins and slides other greese can breakdown from hight heat and gum up the calipers and stop them from moving properly .
even with new rotors, before you install clean the face of the axle hub really well with a wire brush on a drill. Get ALL the crud off. this will insure the rotor sits flush and true onto the hub and will help minimize judder later.
+william j Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
Amazing tip
See I didn't use brush man dang
Also apply a good coating of "Anti sieze" on any connecting surfaces. That way next time you have do brakes, everything comes apart like it's supposed to and you won't have to pound the rotor off with a 10 pound hammer.
The best 3 seconds in the video is at the 7:47 mark. It cures all sadness.
That was playing as I read this 😂😂😂😂
Hey, Len, just stopping by to thank you for putting your time and effort into making these videos. I appreciate you and I hope you're doing well.
Wow! this guy is really an Expert on brakes I was so impressed by his knowledge
I truly love Len! I can't tell you how many issues I've had with my 2 cars where I just RUclips the problem and lo and behold: Len has a video demonstrating exactly how to fix it.
1A auto is amazing with all of their videos. Teaching people the how and why. Nice job Lenn
Thank you!
good video. I thought the pulsing in my car was from my front rotors, but the vibrations are felt in the brake pedal / car, not in the steering wheel so it's likely from the rear brakes.
Spot on man thank you! So tired of wobbling when I come to a stop
Very comprehensive overview of brake rotor problems and symptoms. Good job
Love how you guys explain the full information of what people wants to know of vehicles
Great video. I’ve seen tons of car repair vids, and 1A is the best. Consistency, competence, accuracy, production value, all top-notch.
👍👍
wow!! this guy explains the problem flawlessly. I fully understood what he was saying. great,great video
Hey Len, you’re great! Thanks for explaining what causes brake pulsation. This video will help many DIY and even some experienced mechanics. Hopefully you make more videos.
I would like to find a good mechanic technician with the knowledge of this guy. Very good explanation!
thank you so much, I've been trying to find a reason for my car shaking when braking and it was shaking he did tell me my rears need to be done but this gives me a peace of that its not as bad as I was originally thinking, time to make the appointment
Hey Len, I think that you’re great! Best explanation video on brake pulsation thus far. Thanks
Brake discs don't warp. The slightest run-out introduced when mounting new, wears so as to make the disc thinner on the two opposite sides. The two high spots are worn away. So as it goes round, the pads rub on thick thin thick thin. Calipers can follow a run out of 5 thou without any problem, but a variation in thickness of just 0.0005 inches will be a pulsation of your brake pedal.
It's probably the calipers.
Exactly, disc 'warping' is a myth!!! Cast iron will only begin to lose its structural integrity at around 1,800°F/980°C
@@symboleyes6242 and if you have a hotrod like me revving to 7500 rpm at 120 mph in 10 seconds, you need high carbon rotors, or the caliper will make impressions in the heated metal 🤣
You don't replace rotors without the pads, but its perfectly normal to replace just the pads without the rotors, they are meant to last less than rotors and being replaced as they wear down unless you hit the metal to metal grinding of the rotors.
I was not expecting so much detail, you are a smart man
I appreciate you taking the time explaining things this video has given me a bit more clarity upon pulsation when braking. i still need to gain better understanding of the abs system... to know the difference in diagnosing a issue. To determine whether it is in fact the calipers with piston issue or any of the encompassing components...to the actual abs system causing the problem...
Excellent, knowledgeable explanation that answered lots of my concerns…your channel is my resource for all my DIY needs!
You said exactly what I’ve been telling these mechanics my problem, too bad they told me about a month ago that nothing was wrong and they even test drove it. They said my rotors and brakes are in great condition and I’d be wasting money changing them. Im going somewhere else and I will also mention about getting the calipers checked for freezing issues. I knew something was wrong so I’m replacing both today because I’m getting pulsation every couple stops for over a month now.
Great guy having great knowledge of auto mechanic and problems
This video saved me!!! Thank you so much!!! I never knew that modern rotors didn't have enough "meat" on them to be cut. That's important info for the DIY. Thank you!!!
Thank you for this information !!
I have been so frustrated with my situation with my vehicle.
I knew I had to replace the rotors .
I know a little bit about vehicles. but I am always willing to learn more.
thank you.
Sir, great video. I have a 2011 Chevy Silverado Truck. prior to replacing my rear brakes no Rear Shudder / NO Pulsation happening. During a dealer inspection, they recommended to get my rear brakes replaces. So, I did and got the parts from Auto Zone, brakes and drums, took it to our local brake shop, once they finished the job. Drove off and on my way home, I noticed a Shudder/Pulsation when I apply the brakes coming from the rear. What course of action I should take? New Brakes, springs, drums were provided to the mechanic. Very Respectfully H.A.M
Try replacing your shocks maybe?
Warped rotors from over tightening the lugs nuts.
Back in the 70s, 80s, 90s we learned to diagnose car problems from similar past experience problems. Vehicles are pretty much still the same today except manufacturers have put in way too many sensors and have made cars way too complex (electronics wise) as manufacturers have seen there is a huge market in the car repair industry. Do people really need a sensor in their windshield washer reservoir and tire pressure sensors are a complete joke in themselves! How hard is it to check your tire pressure once a month? These are 5 minute jobs at the most and for some reason the auto industry thinks people are much too stupid and lazy to do even basic maintenance on their vehicles.
Well done for saying that, they think everyone is rich, celebrity and lazy.
Best video I've ever seen on this issue
Finally, some great advice for the problems I've been having. Thanks man, you're amazing!
Brilliant video, very factual and no bull. Good to see some one make a video who knows what there on about. Was making judgments from the start very impressed keep it up
And don't forget to check the wheel bearings.. I have seen hub assemblies heat up wheels causing me to check the brakes to see if I had a caliper hanging on. Noticed some vibration the end up coming not from the rotor but from the bearing beginning to come apart and allowing the wheel to warble a little
I am getting ready to check this situation out on my 95 ford f150, ( 99,000 miles ) I will be buying bearings too. My truck was so bad I could hardly drive it ( sometimes ) . It was toe in about an inch and I reset the toe, tie rods and joints were good though. That took care of a lot of it but still feel the vibration and the right hub gets hot. Well nothing else to do this weekend lol. This old 60 year old is going back under the truck.
Worn and busted shocks and struts can cause heavier braking and cause wrapped rotors as well
Great video. Thank you guys for being great step by step communicators.
Best educational brake video Ive watched. TY
My car NEVER shook until I got my breaks done. I got my tires balanced and it still shakes. So you're telling me PepBoys messed up my car? 🧐
Google a local family owned mechanic shop. Read the reviews. Try to find honest mechanics. Definitely not one of these corporate places... jiffy lube pep boys, etc...
Nahh fr. Once i started going to get my brakes done, the 3rd time i did it, now my car started shaking when i brake. And even when it doesn't do it, sometimes it feels like the brakes is all soft and when i apply more pressure, then it starts happening, even with new brakes and pads. I ll have to explain this to next time i go
basically yes
@redtail1. Better get them fixed ASAP. My tires got super worn out because of the breaks and the shaking. I went back and made them fix their issue. The pepboy guy was trying to justify the shaking and blaming ME for it. My man stood up for me and they finally did their job but before that they tried to over charge me after I had already paid for all breaks and rotors. Haven't had issues since.
Thanks u made my day cause once the brakes warm-up that left front tire start dancing with the steering wheel once again Thanks
When I pressed my breaks at a ligh intersection... just when my vehicle was gonna come to a complete stop I heard a noise under near the front left side of my car and felt and my vehicle skidded about 3 feet before it came to a complete stop. Is that my ABS going bad?
Amazing Masterclass video, well done!
Thank you!
Thanks this will help me with my veerikal
hi dad😃 my veerikal no longer shakes thank
you sir
😂 Thank you for checking out the video. If you need auto parts go to: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-Now
My veerikal is running great now
Great explanation and answers to my questions! Thanks so much guys!!! Keep up the great work and videos!
When will you be back in stock on rotor kit with brakes and calipers for 2010 Chevy Cobalt LT.. All the ones for my car are out :(
Great information, clear explanation, direct and valuable! Thanks
Great job. 1A Auto is the best.
+John Lovorn Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I am struggling to think that every time a vehicle needs new pads, you also need to replace the rotors. That would jack every brake job from $100-$200 to closer to $750
I would like to know what can cause brake pulsation AFTER a brake job was completed.
Both rotors were turned along with new bearings in the integrated hub, and yes, I did knock out the old race and replace it with the new ones. The new races were seated completely. The new bearings were packed by hand with the grease in the palm method. High temp bearing grease was used and lots of extra grease was packed into the inside of the hub. New inside seal installed.
Wheel nut was torqued and spun at the same time at 12 and then 30 ft/lbs. Then the nut was backed off 1/4 turn and finger tightened. Rotors spun smoothly.
Did not replace the slider pins in the bracket but I did clean them up and replaced the boots. Put a generous amount of brake grease on the pens and seated the boots. Cleaned excess grease with brake cleaner.
Installed the brackets (they were stamped R/L) and torqued them to 136 ft/lbs. Installed new anti-rattle clips, fully seated, on the upper and lower anchor plates, making sure they did not touch the rotor. Applied a small amount of brake grease on each pad track. Sprayed rotor good a final time with brake cleaner to remove any stray dabs of grease and fingerprints.
Installed the new brake pads (ceramic) into the bracket with the friction side against the rotor. I did put a dab of grease on the tabs that make contact with the clips, but I did not put any anti-squeal compound on the metal side of the pads.
I did not rebuild the dual piston calipers but used a clamp and one of the old pads to press the pistons back into the caliper. Opened the master cylinder cap to let the fluid flow back into the reservoir. Installed new anti-rattle clips (the bigger ones) inside the caliper.
Installed the calipers on the slider pins and torqued them to 26 ft/lbs.
Mounted the tires and torqued to lug nuts to 100 ft/lbs. Tires spun smoothly.
Went for a test ride and almost right from the start they felt rough and after a few more times they began to judder. It has gotten worse the more I drive it, the pulsation is more pronounced. I have no issues on the road until I go to brake. It does pull slightly to the side which it did not do before. But it is now parked until I can figure out what is wrong.
After doing some more reading I realize that maybe it didn't break them in properly. I am going to go sand the rotors and the pads to get any glaze off and see if that might help.
This is a 1999 F-150 RWD v6 XL Supercab with over 200000 mi.
@@rob8789 update
Wjat was the issue?
2012 toyota corolla, I have replaced the brake pads, rotors, drums and calipers 3 times. All brand new top of the line parts and they CONTINUE to be warped again within a short period of just a couple months. What suspension or steering or axle or tie rods or what kind of other part outside of the brake system could cause the brakes to warp extremely quickly? Because the brake system has been replaced entirely 4 times in less than 4 years........
Good info! But.... What's a vehricle?
Yes, I have fixed the sliders, and it's not shaking any more. Thank you.
I had new rotors and calipers and pads still has squeaking brakes, then the pads replaced twice, van driven less then 1500 miles, now it vibrates and shakes after a 25 mile trip, so could the lines or hoses have junk in them plugging the calipers?
Found some drilled and slotted rotors at the junkyard. No more pulsing.
I live in an area with a lot of low water Crossings. Mechanics in my area have told me can regularly pause rotor warping
I am experience a lot of steering wheel shake after front brake system replaced. Maybe should I check the suspension?
Hot brakes and then hit a big rain puddle down here in south Florida seems to warp rotors more frequently
Iv got the wobble on the front it’s only when I press them hard can I change them round or sides or do I need new ones
Thank you! I replaced the front and back rotors and pads! Still having a lil shudder when stepping on the brakes coming to a stop. If I am going slow, 2-5 mph it does it as well… Thinking it might be the front calipers, even tho inspecting them I didn’t see any cracks or leakage…? I know I need to get new shocks, but just gonna do one step at a time. 2007 Chevy Tahoe, if anyone else has had these issues please reach out to me, maybe I am missing something or over looking it…? Thank you for the video!
HELP! Should pulsating and shaking happen on my 2023 car?! It's not even a year old and it started to do this 2-3 months ago. Please any info would be helpful.
Is this issue "common" for a car this new?
I have drilled and slotted rotors on the rear of my car and I think I just want slotted on the front. I think that slotted and drilled is just too much metal taken away from the rotor and perhaps it might not work as well long term with my driving style.
I’m having this problem on my corolla IM. What should i do? Any suggestions. Thank you
Can’t replace pads only anymore? You have to do rotors and pads every time?
I have a 07 Infiniti G35 and changed front brakes and Rotors, it still pulsates. Don’t know what’s going on. Mechanic says need to change the front control arm and bushings.
Caravans from 2001 to 2007 are notorious for warped rotors. Undersized. Thanks Chrysler.
Hi, good afternoon... i need help with my car... i changed the rotors and pads twice now with two different mechanics but my car still Shacking specially when braking down when im over 45mph.... i need to solve this problem please...
by looking at the beginning of the video looks like you like near by my house. Tucker st.... wondering if you able to help me.. even if i have to change everything for a third time... thank you
I just got new rotors and pads from you guys and I'm having this issue on highway driving.
+Matt Wernecke Thanks for watching! If you are having issues with the brakes you ordered from us please contact our customer service department right away. We are more than happy to help resolve the issue!
Question. I had my brakes replace and rotors replace in the front but they continue to shake. They only started shake when I replace my rotors and brakes. The dealership says I have to replace the rotors and brakes again even tho they are brand new brakes and rotors. Is it possible they gave me faulty brakes and rotors ?
HHR has vibration on left front after a garage brake job. What went wrong?
Thank you very much for this message of how to fix the brakes may God bless you and your family and I love your show
After watching this video I’ve realized I need to change just about everything to fix my pulsating hahahaha 😂
+Cullum Doss-DeWinter Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Facts
any help i have a 2001 tundra v6 problem. The problem it that when i brake it vibrate and shaking but when it running no vibrate only when brake so i replace new calipers,rotors, brake pab, new tires ,driveshaft support center bearing and the all 3 u joins but still vibrate any help thank you
Excellent presentation, great explanation of all posible escenarios.
In my situation, my car is experiencing some drastic vibration when braking, almost 100% is the front rotors, they were replaced 3 years ago, not sure how long they suppose to last.
Great video ...
I just changed brakes and rotors on a 2001 Hummer H1 at GM authorized mechanic and since when braking , specially at 50-60 m/p going as lightly downhill , very noticeable rocking back & fort is felt
Talked to the shop and they say has nothing to do with brakes cause pulsation is more like streeting doing rapid left /right shake ..
But I think that are wrong . Brakes and rotors on a Hummer H1 are not mounted on the wheels like most cars
They are mounted side by side on the middle of axle . Therefore the pulsation is felt in the form of of rapid back and forth shake
Anyone has any opinion of suggesting on this ?
Thnx
I have mercedes cla my car stops normally my rotors and pads all are new but i am experiencing uneven braking just before my car stops completely. I press my break in constant angle but still i feel a little jerk before being complete stop why??
If I have drilled rotors in the back but solid rotors in the front, could that be the cause o pulsation in the front when braking at speeds of 50mh+?
I replaced my rotors including pads 2 months ago and when I step on the brakes I'm getting a lot of vibration from my front suspension. Could it be a control arm or ball joint?
What if you’re feeling it on your brake pedal? Like literally underneath it. Current issue, it also activates my abs light.
I have a issue with my brake pedal gives pulsations while in park or gear its a 99 ford f350 7.3 dualy 4wd
Any ideas what the problem could be?
We put brand new rotors on our Toyota tundra, which is the vehicle that is doing the pulsating what do we do now it’s still doing it
Where is your shop? I have brake issue, it's shaking when brake.
Does cupping on tire tread cause a shake noise when slowing down from a fast drive to slow down but not shaking on the steering wheel.
I just changed my rotors and brakes a week ago. The shakin stopped but then it came back. I took my car to the tire shop to get a shake down and inspected amd they said everything was fine and couldn't tell me why I get shaking when I brake at 60-70mph but it doesn't shake at lower than 60mph. Why?
He forgot to mention a dusty/rusty hub when the rotor was fitted . This would cause a judder and it happened to me when the mechanic never cleaned the hub
Just purchased the slotted rotors and brake pads from you guys for my Odyssey 09 and since replacing them my car has been rattling and steering wheel shakes very intensely, any suggestions? The car is currently at the mechanic.
Same... wonder if there only meant to last 1 year cus its exactly one year since and now getting vibration. Lmk what mechanic says.
@@soilBGuRu420 the mechanic replace the front rotors with a genuine part for the Odyssey , I was only able to use the rear set , front rotors from A1 got trash don't buy.
Are the slots facing in the right direction there is right and left facing slots
From Wagner is a brake shoe Hybrid-Organic. Also, put the slotted new RecativeOne Roters on. All the way around.
Don't forget the brake fluid topic. Condensation will get into the brake lines over time. BLEED THOSE LINES. FRESH JUICE IS GOOD!
MY 2500 breaking is the best now. Did it all at home. No video's no vanity. Neener neener....
Is it possible that its coming from an unbalanced tire?
You are a teacher by Nature
Now lets say you got drums in the rear and when going to brake and the vehicle doesn’t shake however the pedal slips like there’s pressure but the pressure keeps on stuttering and the vehicle loses the brakes and they come back all within a few seconds of braking, my abs light also comes and goes I heard something about the ABS sensor but i wanna see what everyone else thinks and get more info
Thanks for such a great video. I am trying to diagnose a brake pulsating issue on my F150 2012. I just replaced both front and back rotors and pads lastweek. I'm getting crazy pulsating and shuddering. Brand new rotors brand new pads on all four wheels. Please suggest some solution, thanks.
BTW, I had no pulsating or shuddering issues before the new brake hardware.
My brakes stops then keep going or like stop and slide thru what make issue is that 2001 chevy silverado
What about only in my brake pedal? The rotors are fairly new and my abs light come on and off as I’m driving
I Changed every component on my car the thing still pulsates no abs lights though… some pointers might be nice …
I just changed my brakes on my 04 chevy z71 an after new brakes now my truck shakes bad not whole stoping but while driving an before it never did that