These "ATS" boxes for RV are just a pair of bonded contactor in a NEMA box. You can buy the parts for a hell of a lot less. Some contactors have Normally Open and Normally Closed. I used the Normally Closed to provide hot to the trailer and Normally open from shore power which activates the coil. The contactor had enough "legs" to be able to switch the converter/charger from the normally open too so it kills the converter when I am not on shore power.
Thanks for the info, I had a 30 amp transfer switch on a truck camper set up. Shore power in, through to breaker panel . Remote switch to inverter ,turn on through transfer switch and power early in the morning to make coffee , biscuits. No gas oven. Didn't bother anyone with a generator. I was wondering how to get the other side of a 50 amp side energized , didn't think about the jumper... :-)
Jim, finally a video that makes sense. What guage wire do you recommend for the jumper. Also, I have a progressive Dynamics Ems hard wired. Should this go before or after the bms? Hope your enjoying your new rig. Kip McMillan
Jim, if I want to add a second shore power input on the front of my RV for my truck bed generator can I just wire that to the same input terminals on the transfer switch you show in your video? I want to do this because the factory shore power connector is on the back of my trailer, too far for the generator to reach.
This older video is exactly what I needed to know about wiring my inverter into my 50amp switch. THANK YOU! Now, how to run two ATS together to act as a three way switch (shore/genny/inverter). I think I know how, but I'm searching for a definitive answer.
That's exactly what I'm looking to do as well. Did you just run one into the next? I was thinking of running my generator and inverter into one, then taking the output from it and running it into another ats that also has shore power running into it, then the output to the distribution panel.
@@AZMountainMan2U I did a video on how I word mine. It's on my channel under "campground construction" videos. Basically I rerouted the output line from the rig and wired it into the primary side of the switch which is always the generator side of the switch. And then I wire the inverter into the shore power side of the switch and then wired the output of the second switch to the rig. The video explains it much better. Including what kind of wire are I used.
I just hooked the exact transfer switch like he did but, apparently the company switched the lug location around because it didn't work until I switched line 1 and line 2 around. The front panel of the ATS called it Hot 1 and Hot 2. Once I switched it, it worked. Just in case anyone had trouble with theirs.
Bummer, I used the go power Ts-30 on my last trailer and it took some wiring but it would disconnect converter automatically when inverter was on. Was hoping the ts-50 was the same as my new unit is 50amp.
Great job would’ve never guessed that was your first time. I have a question I have a Victor on 3000 inverter how do I powered it? Double up on the shoreline?
Look at the 2:44 mark and 4:48 mark...at both of these points in the video I talk about the incoming AC power. This video is about a Transfer Switch, not an Inverter wiring demo.
Swap shore and generator inputs. Put your inverter input where the shore power would normally be. Put your shore power where the generator would be. Worked for me.
I think you made a great presentation here, you covered alot. I've got a question i hope somebody could answer, I want to add a 3000 watt inverter, but because my batteries are on the other end of the trailer from the distribution box, i'm forced to put my inverter close to my batteries and that leaves me around 25ft or so to the distribution panel. So i would run some 8/2 from the inverter to the 50 amp transfer switch, on my shore power into the transfer switch i would like to use only L1 and leave L2 hooked to the distribution panel, I would then slightly rearrange my fire place and charger, on the L2 side, and what ever else i would have to to even the circuits out, and just use the transfer switch to switch one leg, of circuits i actually can run off the inverter, I would add a neutral from the distribution panel to compliment L1 in the transfer switch. Im thinking it should work fine as long as the 50 amp transfer switch is capable of just switching just one leg, anyone got any comments , and then it might just be easier to wire L1 and L2 into the transfer switch and just turn off the breaker for the charger
Your way seems like a lot of work. I'd either go L1 and L2 through TS, or wire in a sub-panel, for devices you don't want "hot" via inverter (primary item being converter) or....you go with something like my IC2000 (IC3000 out now) and it replaces your converter and acts as the Transfer Switch. A bit more $$$, but adds a lot of goodness in one solution (inverter/converter/transfer switch) Here is link to that video.. ruclips.net/video/jjevQ10M97Y/видео.html
@@tannerjim The IC3000 was my first pick, but with the inverter having to be placed near the battery bank, putting in a double run of 6awg wires in put an end to that idea, I've got a better idea of how it has to be now, so i will start collecting my parts now,
@@donandrykew9018 You'd only need 1 run of wire from IC3000 to Circuit Breaker. LIne in from shore....to IC3000. Battery into IC3000. IC3000 output sent to Circuit Breaker. This is how I have mine wired...works great. No need for sub-panel
Geebroni yes 30amp for a camper is 1 hot 120v and a 2000 watt inverter u should use 12 gage wire for the inverter and 10 gage wire for the 30 amp shore power side. Remember rvs use 120 for 30amp and 240v for 50 amp. But 50 amp and 30 amp have all 120v circuits.
@ 7:00, can you take your converter wire and disconnect it from the breaker and wire it to the same transfer switch block as your shore power wire to bypass the converter when the inverter is being used? And add an inline fuse to the hot wire going to the converter. Would this break the loop?
@@tannerjim I'm thinking that if you disconnect the converter from the panel altogether and wire it to the slot in the transfer switch where the shore power cable is attached then the transfer switch will automatically disconnect the converter for you every time you use your inverter. Just need to add an inline fuse to the converter the same size as the breaker you were connected to. this way the converter is powered directly from the shore power cable only when the transfer switch goes to shore power. No tripping converter breaker or unplugging required.
@@tannerjim Basically, it means if you manually push one contactor to close the power contacts, you cannot do the same on the other contactor. This will prevent one contactor from closing, if the other one is stuck in the closed position.
What if you also have a generator. Do they make a 3 unit one for that. I think there might already be a auto transfer switch to switch between shore power and generator. I'm not sure, haven't had the RV that long. It's a 2003 Newmar Dutch Star. I know it didn't come with an inverter and I do want to add one. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Yes, it will support 2 separate 120/240 volt AC input sources, including power cords, onboard generators, onboard inverters. The ATS will sense the presence of available power supplies and automatically select the proper one.
That's incorrect, at least according to the Go Power website (gpelectric.com/products/50-amp-transfer-switch/). I'm dealing with this issue right now, trying to figure out how to install an ATS to switch between AC, Generator and solar-fed inverter. The TS-50 only switches between TWO sources, not three.
If you want to have generator , shore power and inverter you will need another switch. Go to the link above ,open owners manual , and go to page 6 ,diagram B . It will show a configuration for , shore power, generator and inverter. Hope this helps .
If your plan is that uncertain / confusing, you need to work with an electrician. Having two separate wiring schemes within the same panel is just contrary to good practice generally, though the RV industry does just about everything contrary to good professional practice, so there's that. If you have a set of circuits to run only from an inverter or generator, put those in their own panel box. Also, what is needed for both inverter and generator inputs separate from utility power is a three-way switch. www.rvandvansurplus.com/ES350--50-Amp-3-Way-Transfer-Switch_p_95.html
Abideen Raufu ...All that information can be seen if you click on "show more" in the description. But...here it is again Items Shown in Video: • GoPower TS-50 Transfer Switch - amzn.to/2uu6L4j • High Leverage Cable Cutter - amzn.to/2uCY5JH • 6 Gauge / 4 Wire Cable for 50amp Wiring - amzn.to/2tADMrf • Cable Clamps (you need 3) - tinyurl.com/yb8gcwsk • PDF of Transfer Switch Wiring - tinyurl.com/y84nlhac
Good video. The part when you used the jumper to fool the system, is that a permanent connection or at some point is that jumper wire removed when in service?
The jumper was a permanent install. I have since moved away from that transfer switch and Installed a hybrid inverter by GoPower (which acts as a transfer switch as well) That video can be seen here. ruclips.net/video/jjevQ10M97Y/видео.html
One of the best videos explaining how to hook up an inverter using an automatic transfer switch. Thanks!
Best video I have found showing how to wire a transfer switch. Thank You
Great job. Thank you in informing me and making sense of the how to use the switch in my rv.
These "ATS" boxes for RV are just a pair of bonded contactor in a NEMA box. You can buy the parts for a hell of a lot less. Some contactors have Normally Open and Normally Closed. I used the Normally Closed to provide hot to the trailer and Normally open from shore power which activates the coil. The contactor had enough "legs" to be able to switch the converter/charger from the normally open too so it kills the converter when I am not on shore power.
Well done.
Fantastic explanation! Thanks so much from this "newbie". I will certainly visit your site for my many questions that I have and will have!
Nice video, You couldn't make this any simpler. Good call on the flexible 6/4 cable. I went with 6/3 wg Romex and had fun wrestling it around.
Does placing jumper from L1 to L3 mess up the phase? Thought opposite legs were out of phase of each other?
Thanks for the info, I had a 30 amp transfer switch on a truck camper set up. Shore power in, through to breaker panel . Remote switch to inverter ,turn on through transfer switch and power early in the morning to make coffee , biscuits. No gas oven. Didn't bother anyone with a generator.
I was wondering how to get the other side of a 50 amp side energized , didn't think about the jumper... :-)
Jim, finally a video that makes sense. What guage wire do you recommend for the jumper. Also, I have a progressive Dynamics Ems hard wired. Should this go before or after the bms? Hope your enjoying your new rig. Kip McMillan
6 gauge is what I used and what GoPower recommended. The EMS would go before the transfer switch.
Jim, if I want to add a second shore power input on the front of my RV for my truck bed generator can I just wire that to the same input terminals on the transfer switch you show in your video? I want to do this because the factory shore power connector is on the back of my trailer, too far for the generator to reach.
This older video is exactly what I needed to know about wiring my inverter into my 50amp switch. THANK YOU! Now, how to run two ATS together to act as a three way switch (shore/genny/inverter). I think I know how, but I'm searching for a definitive answer.
That's exactly what I'm looking to do as well. Did you just run one into the next? I was thinking of running my generator and inverter into one, then taking the output from it and running it into another ats that also has shore power running into it, then the output to the distribution panel.
@@AZMountainMan2U I did a video on how I word mine. It's on my channel under "campground construction" videos. Basically I rerouted the output line from the rig and wired it into the primary side of the switch which is always the generator side of the switch. And then I wire the inverter into the shore power side of the switch and then wired the output of the second switch to the rig. The video explains it much better. Including what kind of wire are I used.
Thanks very informative!
Hi, excellent video! When bringing in shore power couldn’t you splice the shore power cord and install the ATS in between?
Yes...that is exactly how it is done
I just hooked the exact transfer switch like he did but, apparently the company switched the lug location around because it didn't work until I switched line 1 and line 2 around. The front panel of the ATS called it Hot 1 and Hot 2. Once I switched it, it worked. Just in case anyone had trouble with theirs.
I can confirm that !
Thank you!
Great video.
Bummer, I used the go power Ts-30 on my last trailer and it took some wiring but it would disconnect converter automatically when inverter was on. Was hoping the ts-50 was the same as my new unit is 50amp.
Great job would’ve never guessed that was your first time. I have a question I have a Victor on 3000 inverter how do I powered it? Double up on the shoreline?
Has anyone experienced problems with a Go Power unit installed in an Airstream? Improperly installed? Overheating?
now how do you tie in generator/shore and inverter ?
second transfer switch or have inverter (like Victron) that has built in transfer switch
The video said nothing about the inverter's AC input. Where does the inverter get it's 120 ac power from?
Look at the 2:44 mark and 4:48 mark...at both of these points in the video I talk about the incoming AC power. This video is about a Transfer Switch, not an Inverter wiring demo.
Does it have a timer that can be shut off for a quicker and smoother switch from inverter to pedestal instead of waiting 20 to 30 seconds?
Swap shore and generator inputs.
Put your inverter input where the shore power would normally be.
Put your shore power where the generator would be.
Worked for me.
I think you made a great presentation here, you covered alot. I've got a question i hope somebody could answer, I want to add a 3000 watt inverter, but because my batteries are on the other end of the trailer from the distribution box, i'm forced to put my inverter close to my batteries and that leaves me around 25ft or so to the distribution panel. So i would run some 8/2 from the inverter to the 50 amp transfer switch, on my shore power into the transfer switch i would like to use only L1 and leave L2 hooked to the distribution panel, I would then slightly rearrange my fire place and charger, on the L2 side, and what ever else i would have to to even the circuits out, and just use the transfer switch to switch one leg, of circuits i actually can run off the inverter, I would add a neutral from the distribution panel to compliment L1 in the transfer switch. Im thinking it should work fine as long as the 50 amp transfer switch is capable of just switching just one leg, anyone got any comments , and then it might just be easier to wire L1 and L2 into the transfer switch and just turn off the breaker for the charger
Your way seems like a lot of work. I'd either go L1 and L2 through TS, or wire in a sub-panel, for devices you don't want "hot" via inverter (primary item being converter)
or....you go with something like my IC2000 (IC3000 out now) and it replaces your converter and acts as the Transfer Switch. A bit more $$$, but adds a lot of goodness in one solution (inverter/converter/transfer switch) Here is link to that video.. ruclips.net/video/jjevQ10M97Y/видео.html
@@tannerjim The IC3000 was my first pick, but with the inverter having to be placed near the battery bank, putting in a double run of 6awg wires in put an end to that idea, I've got a better idea of how it has to be now, so i will start collecting my parts now,
@@donandrykew9018 You'd only need 1 run of wire from IC3000 to Circuit Breaker. LIne in from shore....to IC3000. Battery into IC3000. IC3000 output sent to Circuit Breaker. This is how I have mine wired...works great. No need for sub-panel
Is 30 amp shorepower 3 strand wire? If so, what wire would you recommend for a 2000 watt inverter?
Geebroni yes 30amp for a camper is 1 hot 120v and a 2000 watt inverter u should use 12 gage wire for the inverter and 10 gage wire for the 30 amp shore power side. Remember rvs use 120 for 30amp and 240v for 50 amp. But 50 amp and 30 amp have all 120v circuits.
@ 7:00, can you take your converter wire and disconnect it from the breaker and wire it to the same transfer switch block as your shore power wire to bypass the converter when the inverter is being used? And add an inline fuse to the hot wire going to the converter. Would this break the loop?
Not 100% sure I'm following your question. To eliminate loop, simply flip converter breaker...or unplug it if you have access.
@@tannerjim
I'm thinking that if you disconnect the converter from the panel altogether and wire it to the slot in the transfer switch where the shore power cable is attached then the transfer switch will automatically disconnect the converter for you every time you use your inverter. Just need to add an inline fuse to the converter the same size as the breaker you were connected to. this way the converter is powered directly from the shore power cable only when the transfer switch goes to shore power. No tripping converter breaker or unplugging required.
Also, Just subscribed to your channel and facebook group (Solar Powered RV's and Boondocking) to help get you over 5000 buy the 31st. :-)
@@MYCHANNELWITHMYSTUFF sure...that could work. Might start to get pretty full at the connection in the transfer switch.
That’s essentially how the ts-30 is wired to remove the loop. It’s just fine with caps, not lugs.
where do you connect the shore line green wire?
at the 4 min mark, I show you where the green wire goes....to the ground busbar.
Are the two contactors mechanically interlocked?
Sorry, I don't know the answer to that. I'd call GoPower customer support.
@@tannerjim Basically, it means if you manually push one contactor to close the power contacts, you cannot do the same on the other contactor. This will prevent one contactor from closing, if the other one is stuck in the closed position.
What if you also have a generator. Do they make a 3 unit one for that. I think there might already be a auto transfer switch to switch between shore power and generator. I'm not sure, haven't had the RV that long. It's a 2003 Newmar Dutch Star. I know it didn't come with an inverter and I do want to add one. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Yes, it will support 2 separate 120/240 volt AC input sources, including power
cords, onboard generators, onboard inverters. The ATS will sense the
presence of available power supplies and automatically select the proper one.
That's incorrect, at least according to the Go Power website (gpelectric.com/products/50-amp-transfer-switch/). I'm dealing with this issue right now, trying to figure out how to install an ATS to switch between AC, Generator and solar-fed inverter. The TS-50 only switches between TWO sources, not three.
If you want to have generator , shore power and inverter you will need another switch. Go to the link above ,open owners manual , and go to page 6 ,diagram B . It will show a configuration for , shore power, generator and inverter. Hope this helps .
If your plan is that uncertain / confusing, you need to work with an electrician. Having two separate wiring schemes within the same panel is just contrary to good practice generally, though the RV industry does just about everything contrary to good professional practice, so there's that. If you have a set of circuits to run only from an inverter or generator, put those in their own panel box. Also, what is needed for both inverter and generator inputs separate from utility power is a three-way switch. www.rvandvansurplus.com/ES350--50-Amp-3-Way-Transfer-Switch_p_95.html
We need full details of materials used and connection
Abideen Raufu
...All that information can be seen if you click on "show more" in the description.
But...here it is again
Items Shown in Video:
• GoPower TS-50 Transfer Switch - amzn.to/2uu6L4j
• High Leverage Cable Cutter - amzn.to/2uCY5JH
• 6 Gauge / 4 Wire Cable for 50amp Wiring - amzn.to/2tADMrf
• Cable Clamps (you need 3) - tinyurl.com/yb8gcwsk
• PDF of Transfer Switch Wiring - tinyurl.com/y84nlhac
Melinda is much better than your previous co-host.
Hi can I ask you guys something by email ?
rvwiththetanners@gmail.com
Good video. The part when you used the jumper to fool the system, is that a permanent connection or at some point is that jumper wire removed when in service?
The jumper was a permanent install. I have since moved away from that transfer switch and Installed a hybrid inverter by GoPower (which acts as a transfer switch as well) That video can be seen here. ruclips.net/video/jjevQ10M97Y/видео.html